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Modeling from polymer clay. Master class on modeling from polymer clay

Salt technology

It is called the salt technique precisely because it uses ordinary salt or sugar. How is it done? It's simple: roll the balls - future beads, then roll them in sugar/salt and roll them again with your palms so that the grains of salt/sugar are pressed into the plastic, after rolling, bake them, take out the baked beads and wash off the salt/sugar under warm water.

An example of the use of salt technology is volcanic lava.

Smooth color transition.

There are several ways to achieve a color transition; these beads, for example, are made by mixing white and coral colors in different proportions for each bead.

For large volumes of work, I advise you to use a paste machine, or if you don’t have one, then perform a color transition using this technology

Cane, cane, sausage, millefiori

Most often this is the creation of a complex pattern from simple elements.
How to do it: a pattern is laid out on the surface from pieces of plastic, then it is pressed evenly and cut into thin “slices” to then make products.
Or else, I’ll try to explain with an example how to make a simple sausage: take several colors of plastic (for example, two), roll them into layers, which are placed on top of each other, rolled on top so that they stick together a little. Then we take the edge of the layer and roll the plastic into a roll, press it a little with our hands and cut it for further use.
Here is a simple example that almost all beginners start with:

pendant "Orange"

Kaleidoscope

in fact, it is the same as the previous technique, only during operation the sausage is still cut and compressed in different ways - into triangles, squares, etc.

This complex example kaleidoscope:

Lentils.

Every plastic sculpting enthusiast learns to make “lentils” (lentils in English) from polymer clay. This technique is simple and very meditative, moreover, the result, as a rule, pleases with its surprise
The main task facing the master is to make even beads shaped like lentil grains. This is done by twisting the main pattern in a whirlwind. It turns out beautifully and often unexpectedly.

Watercolor

The watercolor sculpting technique is very simple. The main idea is that we stick pieces of plastic around the main ball of the bead. See for yourself:

Describes how this is done.

Filigree

A technique for those who are very attentive and patient. How it is done: we take a blank and for a long time and carefully we will paste it with tiny sausages and balls of plastic.

Mokume gane and mini mokume.

A technique with an element of surprise! How do they do it? It all starts the same as with watercolors, except that the colors can be any and the quantity is not limited. That is, simply layers of clay are stacked on top of each other in any order that the master wants. Then various stamps, tools and cutting molds are used: we press on the plastic with stamps, leave cuts with a blade, as well as with molds; traces of violence can be left either through or incompletely. As a result, a certain pattern remains on a piece of plastic. Then we take the blade in our hands and begin to cut off the sheets of clay from above. Each new cut reveals a new drawing. We sculpt the cut pieces of plastic we like onto beads, pendants, earrings, in a word, onto any blanks.

Transferring photos to plastic.

There are several ways to transfer drawings onto polymer clay. Translation of images using alcohol, water (special transfers) is used, in addition, transfer of drawings to plastic is carried out using liquid types of plastic, such as Translucent Liquid Sculpey and Donna Kato-Sauce.
To translate pictures, take drawings printed on laser printer or copier. An inkjet printer will not work here. You can cut out a picture from a glossy magazine or postcard. Try to take a picture from a newspaper, you will get a very interesting effect, just don’t get the wet plastic with the picture too wet, after all, newsprint is very thin and loose.

Mika-shift.

This technique allows you to create textured surfaces with a metallic sheen. It is created only from special “metallic” polymer clay.

Real Fimo metallics suitable for Mika-shift:

28 - Met. Ruby Red - red
38 - Met. Sapphire - blue
58 - Met. Emerald - green
11 - Gold - golden
27 - Copper
81 - Silver - silver
08 - Met. Pearl - white mother of pearl
With glitters (although they can also be called metallics)
202 - Red Met. - red
302 - Blue Met. - blue
502 - Green Met. - green
112 - Gold Met. - gold
812 - Silver Met. - silver
52 - Met. White - white

Here are a few projects using the mica shift technique.

Almost 90 years ago, an excellent material for sculpting was created in Germany. Initially, they planned to make doll heads from it, but the sculptural mass made it possible to convey the subtle details of faces and amazingly imitated different textures surface, became strong after treatment.

The doll's faces did not fade and remained cute for a long time. This is how a wonderful plastic mass appeared, which was so loved by craftswomen and needlewomen.

What is polymer clay?

A modeling mass with a specific smell that looks like plasticine. Contains plasticizers that impart plasticity to the workpieces and facilitate the creation of the required initial shape.

During heating, these chemical additives evaporate. The polymerization of products made from such clay is irreversible; the mass hardens so much that it does not change its shape in the future.

What is polymer clay used for?

The ease of working with such clay and the availability of technologies for its processing are used by masters of decorative and applied arts and designers of small forms. Selling beautiful clay products self made became a source of income.

Polymer clay is used to make:

women's jewelry, costume jewelry;
souvenirs
small-sized interior items;
Christmas tree toys;
designer dolls.

Not only a professional designer or sculptor can make beautiful products; this article will help you turn your favorite mug into a unique and unique art object. Just watch a master class on modeling with clay with your own hands and make a decoration in the form of an applique on the wall of a mug.

Types of Clay

There are various plasticizers in the composition of polymer modeling masses, but they all require heating for polymerization. Sometimes polymer clay is called plastic self-hardening masses that do not require heating to fix the shape.

Polymer clay is sold in packaging of various weights and color scheme. Manufacturers produce these ornamental masses with different properties: colored, transparent, shiny, matte and other effects. All these properties are marked on the clay packaging, as well as the shelf life.

Important: If the clay's shelf life is coming to an end, refuse such a purchase. The mass may crumble during preparatory kneading, and nothing can be made from it.

Tools

Modeling tools are sold in art and craft stores, located on the shelves next to the polymer clay. Beginners don’t necessarily have to buy anything at once; they can make do with improvised means.

Before you start creating your own masterpiece, you need to prepare. For full work you will need:

work surface, you can take ceramic tiles or glass;
PVA glue, which is useful for gluing parts;
sharp knives, or office cutters;
sanding sheets for processing uneven surfaces;
a piece of suede for polishing;
toothpicks to help create effects;
rolling pin for rolling the mass into a flat sheet, it is better to take a glass bottle.

Cutting molds can be replaced with plugs from plastic bottles, these will be the easiest figurine templates for beginners.

Methods of sculpting and textured surfaces

Before you start sculpting, you need to knead the mass in your hands and warm it slightly, similar to plasticine. Single-color works only require checking the homogeneity of the mass when creating product parts, for example, when making designer dolls.

In multi-color works, such as in the manufacture of beads or small souvenirs, different techniques are used. For beginners, we can recommend techniques that will show you how to learn to sculpt with polymer clay:

smooth transition, the simplest and most common technique, when two bars are taken and kneaded at the same time, after which the necessary parts are formed;
sape, in which layers of different colors are placed on top of each other, then carefully rolled into a roll, the parts are cut crosswise.

Other techniques, such as filigree, kaleiloscope, salt, can be mastered later.

Note!

Securing the shape of parts

Polymerization requires compliance with the clay manufacturer's conditions. It is important to follow the instructions and not violate the baking temperature indicated on the package. Products that are underheated will not retain their shape; products that are overheated will lose color and become dark.

Flat parts are baked on ceramic tiles in the oven. Small details such as beads are pricked with toothpicks onto a ball of foil. Baked parts should cool gradually, under natural conditions.

Connecting parts

Sometimes, with complex techniques for making products, the parts are glued together immediately after firing. To do this, use PVA glue; it must be applied pointwise, so the parts fit together more accurately.

Finishing surface treatment

Before coating a polymerized product special varnish, the surface is cleaned of irregularities with sandpaper and, if necessary, polished with suede.

Varnishing gives the final look to hand-made masterpieces, as can be seen in the photo of polymer clay stucco. Matte and glossy varnishes are chosen according to the design of the craft. Manufacturers of polymer clay also make their own varnishes that are most suitable in terms of chemical composition.

Note!

The varnish is applied in layers in two ways:

Using a brush, covering the product in the usual way.
Dipping the entire product into varnish at once. To do this, you need to secure it, for example, on a toothpick, dip it in the solution and turn it in it. Then take it out, stick a toothpick into the foam, let the excess varnish drip off.

Ideas and instructions for modeling with clay will bring the joy of creativity, only if you follow safety rules. It should be remembered that under normal conditions polymer clay is not toxic. But the polymerization process is accompanied by the release of harmful volatile compounds due to heating.

Important: When firing products, ensure that the room in which the polymer clay is baked is ventilated.

Photo of modeling from polymer clay

Note!

Sgraffi then graffito (Italian sgraffito or grafrito, literally scratched), a type of monumental and decorative painting, the principle of which is based on scratching the top thin layer of plaster until the bottom layer is exposed, which differs in color from the top. In ancient times, the principle of sgraffito was used in ceramics (archaic vases of Greece and Etruria). In the 15th-17th centuries. S. spread in Italy as a way of decorating walls (mainly facades, thanks to the special durability of this technique). From Italy, S. penetrated into other countries (Germany, Czech Republic, etc.). S. is widely used in monumental and decorative art of the 20th century.

Sgraffito (ital. sgraffito or grafrito – “scratched”) is a decorating technique produced by scratching the upper layer of plaster to reveal a contrasting successive layer. It’s an old technique widely used in ceramics to decorate archaic vases of Greece and Etruria. In 15 – 17 centuries it spread in Italy as a technique of wall decor (mainly in facades due to its fastness). From Italy it spread further to other countries (like Germany, Czech Republic). Sgraffito was widely used in the decorative art of architecture of the 20th century.

When I saw ceramic vases and dishes using this technique, I simply fell in love with it and decided to experiment. I'll show you the result today.

We will need several colors (oil paint), a contrasting color to the polymer clay, a homemade tool I will show later in a separate frame, regular gloves, dry napkins, a knife, a rolling pin or a noodle cutter.

When I came across this technique in ceramic vases and plates I fell in love with it and decided to try to apply it. I'll show you the result.

We’ll need one-colored clay, oil paint of several colors contrasting to the one of the clay, a hand-made instrument which will be pictured later, simple gloves, napkins, a blade, a rolling pin or a Conditioning Machine.

For the base I used a glass vase and wrapped it in clay. This does not require a special pattern, I simply lay out the entire surface in layers, without overlapping them, butt to butt.

I wrap a glass vase by a layer of the clay. You won't need any samples here. I just cover the glass surface by clay layers carefully connecting them close to each other trying not to leave seams visible.

In order to smooth out the joints, I use a rolling pin or toothpick, just roll it over the surface, at the same time squeezing out air bubbles between the surface of the glass and the clay.

I use a rolling pin or a tooth-pick to smooth the seams, just rolling it along the clay surface and choking out the air from between the glass and the clay layer.

Now I start decorating, rubbing it with oil paint in random order, thickly. I paint without a brush, using my fingers, so as not to damage the surface. Take care of your hands, wear gloves) Acrylic paint will not work, it will dry like a film.

Then I start to decorate the surface applying a thick layer of oil paints in a random way. I don’t use brushes using my finger to spread the paint not to deform the clay surface. Use gloves to keep hands clean. Acrylic paint won’t do as it forms a film when gets dry.

I press it onto the clay with a dry cloth, don’t rub it, but simply remove the excess paint to a matte surface, the paint eats into the clay a little, don’t be afraid to wipe it off completely)

I press a dry napkin to the surface to take away excessive paint. Do not wipe, but press. Do it till you get a matted surface. Don’t be afraid that you might wipe all the paint. You won’t as the paint mixes with the clay a bit.

It may take several napkins; the wrinkled yet soft surface results in a rich texture. I already like it, but today the topic is different.

You might need several napkins. Step by step the soft surface gets textured. I already like the result, but our aim in this tutorial is different, so let’s continue.

Now we will scratch the drawing on the surface. To do this, I came up with a tool on the fly: I hit the wire with a hammer a couple of times to make it flat, folded it in half and attached it instead of a drill, or, as an option, just tape it to a pencil.

The next step is to scratch a pattern. For this I’ve made up my own instrument: I’ve flattened a wire with a hammer, curled it and attached it to a collet instead of a . You can also attach it to a pencil with a tape.

We begin to paint, I remove the excess clay so that it does not reach for the tool, I wipe the wire with a napkin so that the paint does not stain the clay. Now it all depends on imagination and artistic skills. When you get closer, defects are visible; you can leave them alone; after baking, carefully cut off the marks with a blade, but this is only if you are a perfectionist:

So I start drawing. I take away the excess of clay so it might not get attached to the instrument while scratching. After each scratch I wipe the wire not to stain the lower layer of clay. The pattern is limited only by your fantasy. If you look

closer I can see some defects. You may leave them but if you are a perfectionist you may slice them with a blade after curing)

I got it like this:

So here is the result:

As examples of my work, I decided to use photographs of ceramic products made from ordinary clay that inspired me. From the simplest to the most complex compositions.

Working with polymer clay must be properly organized. First of all, prepare workplace. It should be well and evenly lit. Place a work surface on the table (it can be different materials, but the most successful is glass, since clay will not stick to it, glass is easy to keep clean) and everything you need so that the materials and tools are at hand.

If you are just learning how to handle plastic and are experiencing difficulties in making products, then it is better to first draw them on paper, that is, make a sketch - this way it is easier to correct any defects found and you do not have to spoil the material. If you are confident in your abilities, then move on to the next stage.

Before you begin to implement your plan, the clay must be kneaded to give it plasticity and turn the cold mass into a pliable soft material. Clay heats up well from the warmth of your hands, so never neglect this work and do not waste time on it. In addition to the fact that the clay will become elastic, air will be removed from it, the bubbles of which, during firing, will appear on the surface of the product in the form of unsightly bumps.

To start, take a small piece and gradually add more to it. With this method of work you will avoid the above inconveniences.

Rules for mixing colors.

Despite the fact that the color palette of polymer clay can be very diverse, there is still a need to obtain new color or shade. Therefore, you need to be able to mix colors correctly.

Mix clay of any colors (including from different manufacturers), but be careful
proportions.

3-5 minutes are enough for the two colors to completely mix.

Before combining all the available material, make samples.

Remember that dark colors can overwhelm light ones.

If you do not mix clay of different colors until smooth, you can get marble plastic.

It happens that you need clay of a certain color, but you don’t have it at hand. You can use a color mixing chart to get the color you want.

By adding white plastic to any color, you will get the desired shade. The more white clay there is, the lighter it will be.

Tricks and subtleties of handling plastic.

To avoid having to deal with fingerprints on the product, you can wear rubber gloves. If fingerprints still remain on the surface, sometimes it is enough to wet your fingers and lubricate them. You can use another method: finish the product, burn it and process it with sandpaper. However, the paper leaves behind grooves that trap tiny crumbs and dust, making them even more obvious.

To get rid of such defects, you need to wash the product with soap and a brush, and then coat it with varnish. There are craftsmen who prefer to sand their crafts directly under running water in order to immediately see the result and prevent dust from appearing in the air.

During sculpting, especially when making a multi-colored product, it is necessary to prevent contamination of the raw plastic. To do this, the work surface and tools must be clean. In addition, you should wash your hands with a soft brush or keep wet wipes near your work area. They contain substances that are good at removing fatty substances, which also include plasticizers in polymer clay.

Often there is a need to remove stuck debris from already finished work. To do this you need to resort to grinding. If this does not help, then carefully cut off the speck with a sharp knife.

It happens that the plastic is not satisfied with its softness or hardness. To make it softer, there are many ways, for example, combining it with Vaseline, other soft clay, heating it, or introducing Moldmaker plasticizer.

If the clay literally melts in your hands, then either mix it with drier clay, or hold it on a white sheet of paper for 2-3 hours, during which the excess plasticizer will be absorbed into the sheet. If the plastic begins to stick to your hands after adding pigment or paint, this cannot be corrected, since interaction has begun between the components.

Basic techniques.

You can work with polymer clay using various techniques.

Salt technology.

It can be used to make beads, on which, thanks to salt (sugar will also do), a spectacular loose structure reminiscent of pumice is formed.

Make required amount beads Pour in a large sea salt(or sugar), roll the raw beads in it, pressing in the salt crystals. Bake or boil one at a time in water according to the instructions. Immerse the fired product in a container of water. Wait until the salt dissolves, then dry the beads. If necessary, varnish them.

“Millefiori” (“cane”, “sausage”).

One of the most popular techniques, when working in which simple elements can be used to create a complex pattern, for example, on leaves, petals, etc. To do this, layer layers of clay of the desired color and shape on top of each other, observing the given order. This creates a part that needs to be compressed and cut like a sausage. A pattern will appear on the cut.

"Watercolor".

In this case, you need to simultaneously work with three layers of different colors - colored, white and black (other contrasting colors can be used). Place them on top of each other in the following sequence: color (top), white (middle), black (bottom); roll them; tear the layer into small fragments; Place randomly on the craft, covering the entire surface.

"Filigree".

The elements of this technique are grain and thread. Lay out the thread (pass the plastic through an extruder or roll it by hand) into an openwork pattern, placing accents using grains (small metal balls).

“Mokume gane.”

As in the watercolor technique, you should take several layers (at least two and no more than six) of different colors and place them on top of each other; stamp the resulting block with shapes, press with any suitable tools (for example, a knitting needle, etc.), cut with blades (wavy or straight), etc. Due to the fact that the upper layers of plastic penetrate into the underlying ones, unusual patterns will appear on the sections.

"Mika-shift."

Which involves plastic interspersed with mica. Various manipulations that can be done with clay, such as twisting, stamping, etc., cause the mica particles to move, creating a three-dimensional effect. In addition, one can name the “kaleidoscope” technique, the technique of smooth color transition, etc.

Gluing parts.

The glued parts will hold firmly if you choose the right glue. This can be Contact-Gel glue, which will firmly bind the parts to the base, for example, rings. If you need to glue a pin, then drill a hole with a slightly larger diameter under it so that there is room for the glue.

You can try using epoxy glue (on the waste element first). Typically he gives reliable connection, but has an unpleasant odor.

To fasten clay parts to each other or baked plastic to raw plastic, a special baked gel (liquid plastic) is suitable, for example Fimo liquid deko gel, Kato liquid clay, Translucent liquid Sculpey.

Baking the finished product.

When baked, thermoplastic releases toxic substances, so you can’t use the same oven where you cook food. If you plan to do plastic arts professionally, it is best to purchase a special kiln for firing and set up a workshop outside your living space.

What you bake it on also matters. You can choose a board, glass, ceramic (not acrylic) tile, a baking tray, having previously laid baking paper on it (otherwise the product will overheat and burn), a plate (of course, then it cannot be used for its intended purpose), etc.

When firing, the shape of the product must also be taken into account. If it is flat, then to avoid swelling you need to put a small load on it; if the product is round, for example a bead, then in order to prevent it from deforming, burn the product by placing it on a toothpick and sticking the latter into crumpled foil.

How long the product needs to be kept in the oven is determined by its thickness. If, for example, it does not exceed 5 mm, then 15 minutes is enough. Accordingly, the thicker and larger the craft, the more time it takes to fire it, especially since this makes it stronger. As a rule, masters are limited to 30 minutes. Pay special attention to compliance temperature regime.

It is very important to remove the product from the oven correctly so that microcracks do not appear in it due to temperature changes. The craft should be left in the oven until it cools completely, simply opening the door slightly.

So, if you prefer to work with baked clay, then to ensure that the result does not disappoint you, follow certain rules.

Follow the instructions provided by the clay manufacturer and adhere to their instructions and precautions.

Never set the temperature by eye. With the right setting (no more than 130 degrees, as stated on the plastic packaging, although, for example, for Fimo it is 110 degrees), the clay emits a slight odor, and this is normal. When the temperature regime is violated in the direction of its increase, polyvinyl chloride decomposes, which is accompanied by the release of hydrogen chloride, a very toxic substance. But the opposite cannot be allowed - the temperature decreases below specified limit, since in this case polymerization does not occur and the product becomes fragile.

Be sure to test the material by taking a small piece of clay for firing. This will allow you to adjust the operation of the oven (perhaps it will be enough to move the finished product to the lower shelf).

Remember that plastic may change color after baking.

Never use a microwave oven instead of an oven, as it will warp the plastic, burn and may explode.

When finished, cool the oven and clean it.

If the oven is not equipped with a thermometer or if you are afraid to use it, then instead of baking, boil the product in boiling water (remember that you can no longer cook food in such a pan). 30 minutes is enough for fixing.

This method is applicable, although it should be recognized that the product will be less durable than when fired; A whitish coating may appear on the craft, to remove which you will have to apply a layer of vegetable oil to it. In addition, we note that this method of fixing plastic is not suitable for every type of polymer clay, since the temperature of boiling water does not exceed 100 degrees.

If you purchased air-hardening polymer clay for modeling, then leave the finished craft on the table until completely cured, which may take from several hours to several days.

Varnishing of the product.

When varnishing, first degrease the surface of the product by washing it with soapy water or wiping it with a swab moistened with alcohol. This is especially important when using water-based varnish.

Thread a product or part, such as a bead, onto a knitting needle and dip it in varnish; remove it and rotate it around the axis so that the varnish lays evenly, then insert the knitting needle into a piece of foam rubber and remove the drop of varnish that appears.

If the varnish is contained in an aerosol package, the intensity of varnishing depends on the distance to the product. A matte surface can be obtained by holding the can away and spraying the varnish in small portions; glossy - if you place the can closer (but not too close, otherwise foam will appear on the surface of the craft) and give it a powerful jet. If the product is flat, then coat it with varnish one by one, then the other.

When varnishing, unforeseen situations may arise that must be dealt with competently.

Sometimes the product begins to stick to your hands after a while. There may be several reasons: firstly, the wrong varnish was used; secondly, the product was poorly baked, as a result of which the clay did not polymerize, and the released plasticizer interacted with the varnish. You can try additionally keeping the product in the oven for 10-15 minutes at a temperature of 110-130 degrees. If there is no result, remove the old coating and apply a layer of another varnish.

To remove water-based varnish, leave the product overnight in water with lemon or acetic acid. Mineral varnish can be removed with a solvent, such as white spirit; it must first be tested for reaction with the varnish.

If the varnish has formed streaks on the surface of the product, there is only one reason - the varnish is too thick. It must be diluted and used as a primer, onto which a thick varnish is then applied.

- If the product was varnished, dried, but cannot be removed from the knitting needle, then most likely the varnish and the knitting needle are stuck together. Trim the stuck edge with a blade or keep the product in the oven for a while to soften the varnish.

Often white and light varnished products turn yellow. This is possible if the varnish does not contain UV filters. Read the instructions carefully before using the varnish.

Safety precautions.

Polymer clay is an artificial material containing chemical substances, therefore the question of the safety of working with it and using products made from it does not lose its relevance. When in contact with hands, plastic does not cause any unpleasant consequences, i.e. it is safe. However, this does not exclude the implementation of normal hygiene procedures, in particular washing hands after work. In this case, it is advisable to use scrubs or pumice stones and thoroughly clean the surface of the palms and fingers from the smallest particles of plastic.

- To effectively remove polymer clay from your hands, apply a small amount of vegetable oil to them, rub, and then wash your hands with regular toilet soap.
- The utensils and tools that you use when sculpting and baking plastic are not intended for other purposes. At the end of the work, they should be washed and wiped dry.

Let us say again that a special oven is needed to fire clay.

If you overexposed the product in the oven (you will understand this by the sharp and unpleasant smell), then immediately turn it off, open the windows and doors, take children and animals out and leave the room, having first removed the overheated product from the oven. If this produces smoke, cover your nose and mouth with a damp towel to protect your respiratory system from hydrochloric acid (hydrogen chloride) gas.

If you feel unwell, contact medical care and be sure to inform the medical staff about the circumstances of the incident. If there were unprotected foods on the table, throw them away.

Since products can be subjected to further processing, in particular grinding, safety precautions must be observed here too. When drilling or grinding, use a respirator to prevent dry dust from entering your lungs. Also, wear safety glasses to keep dust, tiny plastic particles, and even thrown objects like a bead from getting into your eyes.

- The finished product made of polymer clay can be coated with varnishes.

Follow safety precautions, especially when using aerosol varnish. When liquid is splashed, tiny particles of varnish get into the air, which can settle on the mucous membranes (if this happens, rinse them big amount water and seek medical attention if necessary). Therefore, carry out varnishing in a well-ventilated area; protect your respiratory organs with respirators, your eyes with goggles, your hands with gloves; follow the instructions.

Often plastic products are in the form of edible products - cakes, pastries, etc., which is especially dangerous if there are small children.

This article is for those who are partial to nice souvenirs and everything beautiful. The most unusual, interesting and unique things are not sold in the store and have no price. You can receive them as a gift from a talented craftsman or... you can make them yourself!

In order to master the art of modeling, it is not necessary to have brilliant talents. The sculpting process itself brings quite a bit of pleasure, especially since you will have to sculpt not from plasticine, but from excellent material. Polymer clay, or in other words, plastic, appeared in our country a long time ago. It does not stick and does not stain your hands, there is no dirt from it. It does not decrease in volume and rolls out well to any thickness.

Polymer clay comes in different shades: translucent, golden, silver. It can be dyed and obtained in various shades. Such clay can be soft and hard, requiring firing in an ordinary oven at 100 degrees and self-hardening in air. Self-hardening polymer clay is similar to wood or plaster, so it can be processed with the appropriate tools. Baked clay is harder and resembles plastic. As you can see, working with polymer clay does not require special equipment. All figures made from this material will be strong and durable.

First you need to purchase required material. Polymer clay is sold in specialized stores. Based on the name of the manufacturing company, you can choose: Fimo, Scully, Tsvetik, Kato, Cernite, etc. For work you will need:

airtight boxes for storing clay so that it does not become crusty;
culinary parchment on which you can roll out clay, and you can also use it to cover the oven sheet for firing;
a sharp knife for cutting pieces of clay;
oven;
rolling pin;
household foil;
wire with a diameter of 0.5-1 mm;
wet wipes for wiping hands.

How to work with polymer clay? There are many subtleties and techniques. Using polymer clay, you can imitate almost any artistic effect and surface: fabric, wood, glass, porcelain, ivory, natural clay, any ornamental stones.

Before starting work, it is recommended to knead the clay well with your hands; their heat makes it very plastic. Beginners can start by making beads. We roll out the plastic into a sheet and cut it into equal parts. We roll the pieces into beads. For ease of baking, the beads need to be strung on toothpicks. To make beads with beautiful colored patterns, you can combine several types of plastic. By the way, beads can be made using salt technique. Each bead blank is lowered into a container with sugar, and the sugar should be firmly pressed into the bead with your hands. Roll into a ball, rolling in sugar. Then he places the sugar balls in the refrigerator for a while so that the plastic cools and hardens slightly. Then place the beads strung on toothpicks into boiling water and leave them to cook for 10-15 minutes. When the beads have cooled, you will have an exclusive decoration.

To make beads from polymer clay, you can use watercolor technique. Roll out the plastic of different colors as thin as possible. We connect the layers in this order: black, white, colored. We pierce so that the bubbles go away and the layers are well connected. We're tearing up the layers small pieces. Next, we begin assembling the beads. From the leftovers we roll out a layer and cut out identical parts from which we make beads, covering the base with tatters. Carefully roll it in your hands so that the pattern is uniform, bake it in the oven, drill and varnish.

The technique of decoupage on polymer clay involves transferring a picture onto the surface of the clay. This is the simplest technique. The cut out pattern is glued to the layer using decoupage glue. The top of the drawing also needs to be covered with a layer of glue. Then the workpiece can be carefully cut using a special knife or scalpel. The product goes into the oven. After baking the clay product, we get a beautiful design.

A more complex product can be made using the caning technique, which is also called Millefiori technique. With its help you can create real masterpieces from polymer clay. To get the desired pattern, the plastic is rolled out into “sausages”, laying out the future pattern from them, one is assembled from several and then stretched out in length. The cut produces a neat and interesting pattern. Then you need to cut off the pieces same thickness, or make beads and continue making the intended product.

Products made from polymer clay can be made in "Chrysanthemum" technique. Cut off an equal amount of plastic of the selected colors. Roll out even layers. Next, carefully place one layer on top of the other, making sure that no air remains between the layers. Thus, a two-color layer of plastic is obtained, from which the roll is rolled. Using a plastic card, we symmetrically crush the edges a little, creating, as it were, flower petals. Along the edges the pattern resembles a chrysanthemum flower. You can make beads, a pendant or other products from such a roll by first cutting it into pieces.

Mokume Gane technique involves the help of textures and stamps. We prepare several colors and make layers. We stack them and roll them. The resulting layer is attached to a flat surface, such as glass, and stamped on top to create a pattern. Then use a thin knife or blade to cut off the convex parts. The result is a layer with a wonderful pattern. Use cutters to cut out the parts you like. We remove the drawings from the glass and roll them onto a base, from which they make crafts and then bake them in the oven. The scraps can be glued onto plain balls by rolling them in your hands so that the pattern sticks to the background. Then bake it. You also get beautiful abstract beads.

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