The fighters are colored. Wood coloring (staining, staining) The main principles of wood staining

Paints are paint compositions for decorative finishing of wood while preserving the natural structure of the wood species. In the literal sense, stains are stains that oxidize (etch) the surface of wood, but stains also include materials containing colored pigments, which can be in dissolved form.

Positive water-based stain for painting wooden surfaces, odorless, in a convenient bottle. Beitz paints the wooden surface, not overlapping, but emphasizing its natural structure. Water stain can be used both to imitate precious wood and to create an imitation of old wood. All stains can be mixed together to create new shades or diluted with water to create lighter shades. By mixing stain with varnish, you can obtain a varnish with a patina effect.

Mode of application
The surface cannot be primed, as the primer will not allow the stain to be evenly absorbed into the surface. Often used to decorate things in a classic or rustic style. The surface should be sanded with sandpaper to remove lint. Use a sponge or brush to cover the surface with stain. In order for the stain to lay perfectly flat, you should paint the surface as quickly as possible. If, after painting the surface with stain, lint has formed again, you should sand the surface again and cover it with stain again. Dry for an hour. After the stain dries, the surface will become less intense in color. Stain can be applied in one or several layers. Additional layers will give a darker and more intense color. After application, wait until completely dry. Cover with varnish so that the stain does not migrate (penetrate into the upper layers of paint) during further decoration of the surface. The appearance of a surface decorated with stain will change little when coated with matte varnish and will look very natural, while when coated with glossy varnish the surface will appear brighter, with deeper color transitions. To obtain a light color, any stain can be diluted with water to the desired shade. For uneven coloring, it is necessary to immediately, without waiting for it to dry, apply a bright colored stain to the desired places. Usually the brighter color is applied either to the edges of the product or in stripes. It is important that the surface is wet, then the different colors will mix, forming smooth color transitions. If you do not have time to apply a bright color, you can additionally wet the surface with water.
To obtain the scuffed effect, it is necessary to apply light paint after applying the dark stain. When migrating, the stain will unevenly color the subsequent coat of paint. To enhance the migration effect, wipe with a wet sponge the areas where pronounced abrasions are necessary. In addition to direct application, with the help of stain you can tint Daily ART water-based acrylic varnish and obtain a patina varnish.

The pinnacle of nature's creations, in a large list of building and structural materials, is, of course, wood. Its unique physical and mechanical properties have been known for a long time, and it is thanks to them that wood has been used for various structures and the manufacture of products for thousands of years. If we are talking about products that surround us in everyday life (doors, floors, stairs, furniture, etc.), then the aesthetic characteristics of wood come to the fore: a variety of shades, unique texture, fancy patterns, natural warmth, pleasant to the touch .

Lumber - in a wide range.

But no matter how hard nature tries, man still strives to complete her creation - there is no limit to perfection. This concerns changing the shades of wood and emphasizing the uniqueness of its texture, which allows you to achieve excellent decorative effects. Wood stain is designed to achieve this result.

Beitz is a special product in the form of a liquid that does not form a surface film, but penetrates deeply, coloring the wood itself, due to which, unlike paints, it makes the wood texture visible. (Otherwise this product can be called “stain”).

Wood stains are a modern, high-quality product based on a unique combination of low-odor solvents and natural oils. Simplicity of application is ensured by the “Easy to use” formula, due to which the product gradually and evenly penetrates the wood. This allows you to easily and quickly obtain the desired decorative effect and emphasize the noble beauty of wood. It should be noted that the stain contains UV absorbers that prevent the color from “fading” under the influence of direct sunlight.

What, how and in what sequence should I do to perform high-quality cladding of wood? We provide answers to these questions in step-by-step instructions.

How to apply stain to wood

Step one: surface preparation

Proper preparation of the wood surface is the key to high-quality facing and a wonderful aesthetic appearance with uniform color. It's like the foundation for a house. Therefore, before starting to apply stain, we sand the surface of the wood along the grain with sandpaper with a grain size of 120-320. When matting surfaces that have previously been treated with other paints and varnishes, they must be completely removed. Removal of the old coating can be combined with sanding.

We clean the sanded surface from dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner) and other contaminants. We wash greasy and tarred areas with purified gasoline and let them dry.

High-quality surface preparation facilitates the application of stain, helps to obtain uniform coloring and an expressive pattern of wood texture. Therefore, we emphasize once again: this stage should in no case be neglected!

Step two: preparing stains (stains)

Before applying the paint, mix it thoroughly until a uniform consistency and color is obtained. The product does not need to be diluted, because it is ready for use.

There are many ready-to-use colors in the assortment, so you can always easily choose a shade to your liking.

Step three: applying stain

To apply the stain, use a sponge, tampon or soft cloth, with which you carefully and evenly rub the product into the wood. We do this at an ambient temperature of +5 to + 30 ° C. Under such conditions, the product gradually and evenly penetrates deep into the wood without lifting its fibers. This is very important, because in order to apply the next layer you do not need to perform interlayer sanding of the surface. Remove excess product that the wood has not absorbed with a rag.

The innovative formula ensures long open time. Thanks to this, any adjustments and corrections can be made even 30 minutes after application.

To achieve the desired color intensity, apply one or more layers of stain at intervals of 24 hours.

Step Four: Surface Protection

The resulting surface with a uniform color and pronounced wood texture is protected with a transparent varnish. We select varnish in accordance with the operating conditions of the product.

Stain or walnut stain is one of the highest quality materials for painting wood in all shades of brown. It has been known for quite a long time - back in the 19th century they used natural stain obtained by soaking special soil. Saturated with combustion products and oil, the earth was mined from fields near Cologne. Later, when the reserves of Cologne soil were depleted, people learned to produce walnut stain technologically, using charcoal and petroleum products.

Today, stain is one of the environmentally friendly natural materials that gives a stable and durable effect. The colors of wood stained have the following properties:

• do not fade over time
• have excellent visual characteristics of a tinted layer of wood
• decorative qualities are based on highlighting the texture of wood through intensive coloring of less dense layers and less intense coloring of hard ones
• Thanks to the use of stain, it is possible to give a noble color to less valuable types of wood

It is not surprising that walnut stain is still one of the most popular coloring agents in furniture production.

Beitz: application methods and other nuances of use

The second reason for the widespread use of walnut stain is its ease of use, both in production and at home. It is applied by spraying, soaking, using a brush or swab. In principle, any of these methods is quite suitable for giving wood the desired optical qualities and protective characteristics.

The protective effect is one of the main advantages that the fleece has. Wood impregnated with stain (“stained” wood) is perfectly preserved for many years. After all, the stain is characterized by the following features of interaction with wood:

• prevents the growth and development of fungi and microorganisms in the wood
• increases the fire resistance of wood
• strengthens the material used to cover floors and stairs - increases abrasion resistance
• has antiseptic properties - prevents or significantly slows down the process of wood rotting

In order for the effect of stain tinting to be of high quality and free from defects, you need to remember some of the nuances of its use. The stain should be applied to a well-cleaned, dry surface of the wood, and the more concentrated the solution, the more intense the resulting wood tone. Excess stain must be removed some time before it dries completely. Stained wood can be finely sanded, but you need to remember that not all types of stain penetrate deep enough into the wood structure.

A concentrated solution of walnut stain is diluted with water. Nowadays, other types of stain are also produced that are more suitable for certain difficult operating conditions - high humidity, changes in temperature, direct exposure to water in the form of precipitation, exposure to direct sunlight. For these purposes, other types of stains have been developed: alcohol (or based on other organic solvents), oil, chemical.

Whatever type of stain you choose, it will give your wooden products the desired effect and extend their service life for many years.

stain

stain a dye, usually water-soluble, used for surface coloring of wood products. Mordant, or stain, has been known since the 19th century. called "Cologne land". This is loose humus soil, minor deposits of which were discovered in the vicinity of the German city of Cologne. “Cologne earth” easily dissolved in water, giving it a rich brown color, and stained paper and other materials well. However, supplies of “Cologne soil” turned out to be limited, and over time, substitutes for natural stain were developed. Nowadays, stain, obtained from coal and oil, is the only natural brown dye. Used for surface painting of walnut wood without chemical interaction with substances contained in the wood itself. Surface painting with stain differs from conventional painting of wood with oil and other paints in that the stain does not cover the natural pattern of the wood, but, on the contrary, reveals it, the texture of the wood becomes more contrasting and richer. This is due to the fact that loose, porous layers of wood absorb stain better and become darker than denser, finely porous layers. Resinous wood practically does not absorb stain; it almost does not change its natural color. Among the many types of wood, the most suitable for painting with walnut stain is birch wood, especially with small knots and a sinuous arrangement of fibers. Spruce and beech wood is also suitable.

The most common is water-soluble stain. It is sold in powder or liquid form, ready for use. The stain should be diluted in soft water - rain, river, snow. If the water is from a city water supply, you need to add baking soda to it (1 teaspoon per 12 liters of boiled water) or a 1% solution of ammonia. The concentration of the stain solution is 5 x 30 g per 1 liter of water, depending on whether darker or lighter coloring is required. The intensity of the color also depends on the ability of the wood to absorb the solution. The coloring is more even if the wood is slightly moistened beforehand.

On horizontal surfaces, the stain is first applied along the grain of the wood, then across the grain, and finally again in the direction of the grain. On vertical surfaces, stain should be applied from the bottom up to avoid splashes on areas not yet coated, where stains may form.

Wood does not absorb excess, so its surface is moistened with excess stain, and the remaining stain is removed with a brush or swab. When painting with water-soluble stain, the wood fibers straighten out, so after drying, the surface is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper with light pressure. The drying time for wood painted with water-soluble stain is 15 x 24 hours. It is a good idea to wipe the dry painted surface with cloth or some other similar material to remove dry particles of dye that have not been absorbed into the pores of the wood. Freshly painted wood surfaces appear darker than when dry, so it is recommended to do a test first.

Ready-to-use stains based on organic solvents (for example, alcohol) are also used. Alcohol stain does not straighten the wood fibers, so additional sanding after it is not necessary. The drying time in this case is 15 x 30 minutes, that is, much less than when treating with water-soluble stain. Stain containing solvents is prone to streaking. This can be prevented if the surface of the wood is slightly moistened with warm water in advance. The wood at the ends of the product (blank) absorbs stain abundantly, which makes it much darker; To avoid this, you must first moisten the end with water.

As dyes for direct surface dyeing, in addition to stains, you can use almost all synthetic dyes for wool and paper fabrics, fur, wool, and leather.

Dyes for staining wood are often mistakenly called stains. With outwardly similar results, mordant dyeing, however, differs from surface coating with stain in its higher light and water resistance, and also in the fact that denser and darker summer wood is stained more strongly than the loose and light spring part of the annual rings. This is especially noticeable in pine and spruce.

Mordant coloring compounds, or mordants, are not independent dyes; they interact with the tannic acids of wood, forming colored salts, which give the wood a certain color. The most tannic acids are found in walnut, oak, chestnut, alder, and willow wood; These breeds lend themselves better to mordant dyeing than others. The wood of birch, beech, pine, spruce and linden contains practically no tannic acids; therefore, before staining, the wood of these species should be treated with an aqueous 1.5% solution of pyrogallic acid or tonin.

Potassium permanganate, iron sulfate, potassium dichromate, as well as almost all dyes for fabrics, wool, fur, leather (as with direct surface dyeing) are often used as mordant dyes. They are used in the form of 15% aqueous solutions. To prepare solutions, salts and dyes are dissolved in soft water heated to 80°C, the solution is allowed to settle without shaking, and poured into a clean container. Mordant is applied to the surface of products in the same way as stain; small products and workpieces can be completely immersed in the solution.

Below are recipes for some solutions for staining wood:

Birch trees in light yellow-brown (golden) color

Iron sulfate 40 g

Chrome brown or orange. 10 g

Water... 1 l

Beech in olive color

Iron sulfate.. 20 g

Green synthetic dye .10 g

Water... 1 l

Beech and oak ebony effect

Nigrosin.. 50 g

Water.. 1 l

Oak, birch and beech brown

Brown synthetic dye 1 g

Stain.. 10 g

Water.. 1 l

Pine, spruce brown

Brown synthetic dye 3 g

Vinegar essence.. 3 g

Aluminum alum 10 g

Water. 1 l

Birch and beech mahogany

Copper sulfate. 50 g

Water (first coloring).. 1 l

Yellow blood salt 100 g

Water (second coloring).. 1 l

Encyclopedia "Housing". - M.: Great Russian Encyclopedia. A. A. Bogdanov, V. I. Borodulin, E. A. Karnaukhov, V. I. Shteiman. 1999 .

See what “stain” is in other dictionaries:

stain- Mordant: Mordant is a special device for killing insects, used in entomological collections. Stain dye for wood. Morilka (tributary of the Kholynya) ... Wikipedia

STAIN- STAIN, stains, women. (specialist.). A caustic liquid with which the surface of the wood being treated is impregnated for the purpose of painting (in furniture making, pencil making, etc.). Ushakov's explanatory dictionary. D.N. Ushakov. 1935 1940 … Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

For transparent furniture finishing, surface staining of wood is used for:

• 1) changing the natural color of wood and giving it the desired color and shade;
• 2) eliminating different shades in the coloring of parts and obtaining the same color tone of the product;
• 3) obtaining a darker tone.

In all cases of staining, the grain of the wood should not be covered up, but rather, it should be enhanced.

In addition to surface coloring, in which dyes penetrate into the thickness of wood to a depth of 0.1-0.5 mm, there is deep coloring (deep impregnation), which occurs when a dye solution is injected at high pressure into the pores of wood. In this case, the dye penetrates deeply (sometimes even through) into the wood. Deep impregnation is used to imitate plain wood.

Surface coloring of wood goes by different names, for example: dyeing (with aqueous solutions of organic dyes), staining and staining (with stains and stains, i.e., humic substances), etching (with mordants).

Most often, furniture is painted with humic dyes and, in particular, walnut stain.

In appearance, walnut stain is a black crystalline substance that is easily soluble in water and produces a brown solution. A mixture of infusorial earth with a basic dye is known as walnut stain. There are various mixed dyes produced under the names “stain” and “stain”.

In addition to humic dyes, water-soluble organic synthetic dyes are used for surface coloring of wood - direct, acid and basic.

Direct or substantive dyes They are distinguished by their ability to directly dye wood fiber. These include: straight yellow, chrysophenine, straight bright orange, straight red lightfast, straight burgundy, straight brown K, straight brown 2>K and others.

Acid dyes They color wood fiber well in the presence of acids. These include: light-fast acid orange, acid red C, acid burgundy, methanil yellow, eosin, etc.

Basic dyes They color wood fiber better in the presence of tannins. These include: auramine, rhodamine G, rhodamine C, basic brown, etc.

For coloring, organic dyes are dissolved in water heated to 80° in a concentration of 0.03-1%. The surface of the wood is moistened with water, and then the prepared dye solution is applied using a swab, sponge or brush. Chairs, shelves and other types of timber furniture are painted by dipping or spraying. Coloring with humic dyes is done with a swab, brush and dipping. The depth of staining with humic dyes is 0.3-0.4 mm, and with synthetic dyes - about 0.1-0.3 mm.

Staining with mordant and chrome dyes is somewhat more difficult. First, mordants in the form of aluminum, chromium and iron salts are applied to the wood fiber, and then aqueous solutions of dyes are applied. At the same time, as a result of the chemical interaction between the mordant and the dye, a varnish of a certain color appears on the fibers, distinguished by its strength.

Yellow blood salt, copper sulfate, copper chloride and some other inorganic mordants are capable, by themselves or in the presence of a tanning agent in wood, of coloring it a certain color. A solution of potassium permanganate (3-4 percent) colors the wood reddish-brown, a solution of chromium - yellow, a solution of ferrous sulfate - gray, etc.

Ammonia gas is also a mordant, since it, acting on tannin and tannic acid, permanently colors the wood brown.

Pore ​​filling (priming, mastication) is intended to:

• 1) fill the pores of the wood to reduce varnish consumption and obtain a uniform and continuous coating and
• 2) create a primer that has good adhesion directly to the wood and to subsequent layers of varnish.

The pores are filled with transparent or translucent materials, so-called primers, mastics and pore fillers, so that the wood grain is not covered. Materials for filling pores consist of a binder (carpentry glue, casein glue, drying oil, oil varnish, resin solution, etc.) and a filler (kaolin, heavy spar, talc, chalk). Such fillers are called colorless. By adding small amounts of mineral or organic pigments (ocher, umber, scarlet pigment, etc.) or fat-soluble dyes (fat red, fat brown, etc.), colored fillers are obtained.

With colored primers and mastics, in addition to filling pores, you can simultaneously paint the wood in the required color or to match a certain species, then there will be no need for painting (staining), drying and sanding, i.e. the finishing technological process will be significantly simplified.

It is not advisable to use drying oil in its pure form as a primer, since oxidation of the oil may occur deep in the pores, releasing volatile substances that destroy the film of the topcoat varnish. Drying oil can only be used in a mixture with filler.

Waxing surfaces before varnishing are now rarely used.

Waxing is carried out with wax masses, which are solutions of natural or artificial wax in solvents (turpentine, gasoline, white spirit).

When making a mass with natural beeswax, 30% wax is used, and with ceresin, paraffin or other artificial wax, 60% wax and 40% solvent are taken.

Waxing does not ensure proper filling of pores, which requires a lot of varnish to obtain a glossy surface.

1) carpentry primer No. 238 (OST 3180) - a mixture of mineral and binders and fillers. The recipe and types of carpentry primer are given in table. 31.

According to the technical conditions, the carpentry primer should have a residue on a sieve with 3200 holes/cm2 of no more than 1% within about 6 hours after application it should form a soft matte film, and after 12-16 hours it should form a hard but not brittle film;

2) colorless mastics produced according to the following recipe (in percentage):

3) primers and mastics proposed by TsNIIMOD and prepared at furniture factories (Table 32):

Oil primers are made by rubbing chalk and pigments with drying oil on a paint grinder. The resulting thickly grated paste is diluted with the rest of the binder, i.e., varnish, drying oil, drying agent and solvent. Primers are designed for long-term storage.

Casein and oil primers are used when finishing furniture with alcohol varnishes and nitro varnishes;

4) fillers: adhesive, drying oil, oil (Table 33)

5) colorless and colored fillers used when finishing furniture with alcohol varnishes, nitro varnishes, as well as when polishing with alcohol polishes (Table 34).

All of the above fillers must be prepared locally 1-2 days before use. It is advisable during the preparation of the compositions, as well as when thickening, to dilute them with 10-15% white spirit, i.e. until a working consistency is obtained.

Kaolin filler based on YAP-1 varnish (a solution of fused amber in white spirit) is highly water-resistant and has been used in furniture factories in the local industry since 1952.

Colored fillers successfully replace two previously used operations: coloring (staining) and waxing.

The filler made using YAP-1 varnish and filler, according to technical conditions, must dry in 4 hours and have a viscosity according to the VZ-4 viscometer of at least 20 seconds. The filler is applied to the surface of the product with a swab and rubbed into the pores of the wood. To avoid drying of the filler and the formation of streaks during subsequent varnishing, it is necessary to wipe the surface with a dry swab 5 minutes after its application to remove excess filler.