Replacing the cartridge and problem solving options. How to remove a threaded chuck from a drill, methods of attaching chucks Disassemble the chuck of an aeg impact drill

A drill is necessary in the house. This is one of the most frequently used tools, which is impossible to do without if you need to carry out repairs or do something with your own hands. As long as the drill is working, everything goes well. Suddenly something goes wrong, and the question immediately arises of how to remove the chuck from the drill.

This task seems elementary. But if a person is used to the fact that the drill always works well, then this develops into a problem. It turns out that in order to decide how to remove the chuck from the drill, you need to find out how it is attached to the shaft, and only then carry out certain work.

Reasons for withdrawal

In the vast majority of types of drills, a chuck based on the cam operating principle is used to attach the drill. The cutting tool in elements of this type is firmly fixed when 3-4 cams come together, which have a conical part and move in the longitudinal direction towards each other, due to the rotation of the control sleeve along their cone. The adjustment sleeve is turned manually (quick-clamp) or using a special key (regular or key chuck).

During the operation of an electrical device, there are times when the question arises of how to remove the chuck from the drill. So, sometimes you have to deal with the fact that the drill starts to run out. In this case, the cause may be a shift in the center of the drill attachment due to wear on the cams. To repair the drill, you need to remove the chuck from the shaft. It will also have to be removed if the question of how to remove the drill is not resolved if it is jammed. The cause may be damage to the cams or wear of the gearing of the adjusting sleeve. The drill can only be removed after disassembling the chuck.

In addition, you will have to unscrew the chuck if it begins to rotate relative to the drill shaft. The cause may be damage to the fastening thread or sagging of the seat cone. Mechanical damage may force it to be replaced. Finally, the decision to simply install a more versatile mechanism may result in a replacement with a new chuck.

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Existing types of fastening

The chuck is attached to the shaft of any drill, screwdriver or hammer drill in two ways - using a threaded connection or on a cone. A variation of the threaded connection is the use of an additional locking screw.

Threaded fastening means that an identical thread is made on the drill shaft and on the internal channel - metric or inch. Consequently, in this case, during repairs, the question is raised of how to unscrew the cartridge. The type of thread and its main parameters are marked on the body. For example, the designation 1.5-15M13x1.2 is stamped on the body, which means the following:

• 1.5 and 15 – minimum and maximum diameter of the drill shank in mm;
• M13 – metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
• 1.2 – thread pitch.

If an inch thread is used, then the designation UNF is entered, and the diameter is indicated in inches (for example, 1/2). When replacing a cartridge, be sure to check that the markings match the mounting dimensions. Modern drills mostly have inch threads, which meets international standards and expands the possibilities of interchangeability.

To ensure secure fastening to the shaft, a locking screw is installed inside the device. This screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. In order to unscrew it, you need to twist it clockwise.

The second method of attaching the chuck to the drill shaft is based on the use of a Morse taper. In this case, the end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The internal channel at the bottom end has a similar conical part. The cartridge is simply pressed onto the shaft cone with force. The marking of such elements has several meanings: B10, B12, B16 and B18, where B means the use of a Morse taper, and the numbers indicate the maximum diameter of the drill shank that can be fixed in this chuck. This method of fastening is quite common, especially in screwdrivers.

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Removing from a threaded connection

The question of how to remove a chuck connected by a threaded connection to the main shaft of a drill is solved in the following order. First, the internal fixing element in the form of a screw with a left-hand thread is unscrewed (unscrewed the other way around, i.e. clockwise) using a Phillips screwdriver. Then you should unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise. As a rule, it is twisted tightly. Therefore, it is necessary to fix the drill shaft in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the cartridge using a gas (plumbing) wrench. If you also need to remove a firmly stuck drill, then the cams together with the drill are knocked out by applying gentle blows from above.

Installation of a new element is carried out in the reverse order. The chuck is twisted clockwise by hand, while the drill shaft is fixed with one hand. Then the inner locking screw is tightened counterclockwise.

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Dismantling the cone specimen

Removing the cartridge mounted on the shaft cone usually does not cause difficulties. You can use a special tool to remove the bearings. But the simplest way is as follows. The drill is installed vertically, with the drill pointing down. With light blows of a hammer, evenly over the entire surface, the cartridge is disengaged. If necessary, after removal, the surface of both cones is ground. The new element is installed by lightly hitting the chuck with a mallet from above.

Sometimes the hammer drill comes with a device for removing such a cartridge, in which case the task is simplified even more.

The drill chuck can be represented by several types, which differ markedly in design and design features. It is quite possible to quickly replace such a part of an electric drill with your own hands, but you need to know the basic rules for performing such work.

Drill chuck: device and types

A significant part of drill models are equipped with so-called cam devices. This option is a hollow cylindrical body, on the surface of which there is a movable part in the form of a ring or control sleeve. One cylinder base is attached to the drill shaft. The second base is used to fix the attachments. The process of rotation of the adjusting ring causes the movement of cams made of metal. The approaching and moving away of such cams depends on the direction of the annular rotation.

To secure it to the shaft, the housing is equipped with a special convenient threaded hole or has a special conical surface. There are also types of cartridges that are best suited for equipping specially designed rotary hammer models. It is quite possible to remove and change it yourself. Cam-type drill chucks allow you to secure the attachment and shank within standard limits of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.

In order to ensure maximum security during fastening, it is very important to tighten the cartridge with significant force. Cam chucks can be:

• “regular”, represented by “key” or “gear” options;
• “quick-clamping” or bzp cartridge.

To tighten or loosen the adjustment ring on a “regular” device, you will need to use a special wrench.

Characteristics of the drill keyless chuck

Tightening and loosening will require the use of a special metal sleeve that is knurled or grooved. Quite often, a plastic sleeve with ribs is used for this purpose.

The main difference of this element is the absence of a clamping key and the use of an outer shell that allows clamping of the drill lips. Most often, the use of BZP is accompanied by the following problems and difficulties:

• insufficient quality of drill clamping;
• lack of sufficient resistance to dust;
• breakdown of the clamping mechanism.

Drill chucks: varieties (video)

If the mini drill or screwdriver model is equipped with a special type of lock, then it is necessary to use a single-socket clamping element. On tools without a blocker, a two-clutch element or a mini-chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and a steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.

Any option for performing repair work yourself requires knowledge of the device and its main components:

• cone-shaped gripping lips;
• inner part with lips;
• external clamping part.

If necessary, each individual element of such a device can be replaced, for which it is necessary to disassemble the device correctly.

How to remove and disassemble an electric drill chuck

Even small, minor repairs will require proper disassembly of the structure. Today, there are only two mounting mechanisms on the working shaft, so the process of dismantling work may vary.

With the threaded fastening method, the structure must be disassembled in the following order:

• deepen the cams inside the body and spread them as far apart as possible;
• Unscrew the fixing screw located in the central bottom part of the device. Fasteners with left-hand threads must be turned clockwise;
• Using an open-end wrench placed on the shaft, the device is unscrewed.

If there are no flats, the housing is disassembled, as well as the rotor shaft is subsequently fixed in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the element using a gas wrench.

The most popular and frequently used in modern instruments is the cone connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the cone connection, this option, with the right approach, can be quite easily disconnected on its own. To this end the body is first tapped in a circle, after which the element is knocked off the shaft using a sharp and accurate blow to the rear of the shaft.

After the cartridge is removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of malfunction. You can carry out repairs yourself if there is no significant damage to parts or jamming. caused by metal shavings trapped inside adjacent parts. As a rule, restoring functionality in the event of such a breakdown can be achieved by washing the elements in oil or kerosene using a soft, medium-sized brush. After this cleaning method, assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most often, owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear and damage to threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type can be easily eliminated by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a needle file or a standard sanding cloth. In the most complex cases of breakdowns, a complete replacement of the failed cartridge is most often required.

How to remove a chuck from a drill (video)

For dismantling and disassembling the chuck of an electric drill you need to prepare a set of tools presented:

• vice;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• small mallet;
• chisel;
• needle file and sandpaper;
• a brush with soft bristles and an oiler;
• a set of gas keys;
• adjustable wrench;
• awl;
• file;
• caliper.

The basic version of the tool set may vary slightly depending on the type of connection and the complexity of the dismantling work performed. Excessive force should not be used since in this case not only the external, but also the internal working part of the device can be irreparably damaged.

Replacing a drill chuck with your own hands

There are several most common problems that can be observed during the operation of the tool, and will require cartridge replacement:

• quite often a fixed element falls. This problem occurs not only on old tools, but also on completely new models, which are characterized by a conical fastening of the cam part. As a rule, the fall of a part accompanies the process of drilling deep holes. In this case, when lifting the drill and freeing it from accumulated chips, the cartridge falls off the cone. This problem can be solved by increasing the tension of the cone joint. For this purpose, you need to heat the cartridge in oil to a temperature of 110 o C, and then place it on the fixing part of the cold tool;

• If, when performing work that is accompanied by the release of a significant amount of dust, chips or dirt, the clamping lips jam, then you need to properly disassemble the chuck, and then carefully, but as thoroughly as possible, clean and rinse all moving, working elements. Before assembling the part, it is very important to lubricate the internal parts with a brush and lithol. A good result is obtained by using a homemade protective casing that prevents clogging of the working parts;
• If chuck runout is observed during drilling, the cause may be significant wear on the seat cone. An equally common cause of this phenomenon can be uneven wear of the cams, which must be replaced. If necessary, the broken cartridge is completely replaced.

Reassembling the disassembled part is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the rules for fastening to the tool.

How to change the chuck in a drill with your own hands (video)

The chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism, so the performance of the tool and the quality of the work performed will depend on its condition. It is quite possible to replace such a device yourself without having the skills or special knowledge, but in this case you need to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and adhere to the standard instructions for repair work.

You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:

1. Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
2. Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:

1. The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B is the cone, the number is the maximum drill size).
2. The marking of the threaded cartridge contains the designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with a reverse function, the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw, visible through the open jaws.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.

Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.

Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).

Try not to tear off the splines.

If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.

This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.

After cleaning, reinstall the chuck in reverse order, keeping in mind the different thread directions.

Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.

Specifics of cone fastening

In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the chuck using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.

Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, we lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.

When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.

It's hard to imagine a home without an electric drill. This is almost every man's favorite instrument.

Usually the user does not worry about the drill, works for himself with the tool, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the clamping mechanism jammed, and repairs loomed on the horizon. It became necessary to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to do the necessary work without completely and irrevocably ruining the drill. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and methods of attaching them to the drill.

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Design features

Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:

• quick-release or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change tools, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with quick-release chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
• toothed, requiring the use of a special key.

There are also other varieties, for example, SDS+ and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.

Attaching the chuck to the spindle of an electric drill

Actually, There are two mounting methods:

• cone mate;
• threaded connection.

You can find out the type of fastening by the marking:

• the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse cone, the special shape of the mating surfaces (in total there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45); before this designation, the range of drill shank diameters is marked, for example, 1−6 B10;
• type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of metric threads (diameter of drill shanks, thread diameter and thread pitch);
• abbreviation UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the marking of metric threads, for example, 2−13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ indicates the diameter of the thread in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads per inch length), which indicates fastening using an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.

Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill

To perform this operation The following tools may be required:

The tool is first removed from the chuck. The key chuck can be unlocked without a key by inserting the drill shank into the hole.

Dismantling with conical mating

This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.

If there is a fixing screw, remove it.

It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill down and remove the cartridge by light tapping hammer (to protect mechanisms from damage, the best option is to strike the cartridge body with a rubber or wooden mallet through a spacer - an open-end wrench).

If you have a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.

Dismantling with a threaded connection

In this case The disassembly order is as follows:

1. The cams are recessed as far as possible, since at the bottom of their socket there is the head of the internal screw, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not mandatory.
2. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw from the spindle; the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. If you have difficulty turning the screw, you can lightly tap it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
3. The cartridge is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by rotating counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, it is recommended to use two keys. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the jaws and unscrew the cartridge with it.

If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to gain access to the spindle.

And one more tip: if during disassembly the screw turns out to be damaged, then you can purchase an adapter for

During construction and repair work, a drill is often used. When working intensively with this tool, the bit or drill often becomes loose or falls out. In most cases, the situation can be corrected by tightening the cartridge. If this does not solve the problem and the drill continues to fall out, the drill chuck needs to be replaced or repaired.

Types of cartridge

One of the main parts found in the design of a drill, hammer drill or screwdriver is the chuck. The drill, bit and other working devices are mounted in it between several parts called cams. Based on the design of the cam mechanism, the drill chuck can be a quick-release chuck or a key chuck. In the first type, the drill is fixed manually after applying a little force.

The key mechanism requires the use of a special key. In the body of such a cartridge there is:

• Collet. Hardened cylindrical bushing with a cavity inside.
• Adjustment clip. It is attached to the outside of the collet and can rotate.

On one edge of the sleeve there are steel petals that allow you to install a drill, reamer, or tap. The rotating holder makes them move along the guides. Depending on the direction of movement, the petals either come closer or move away from each other, clamping or releasing the device installed in them. To ensure the most rigid fixation of the drill, a special key or coupling is used.

Reasons for replacement

The main function of the clamping mechanism is to ensure maximum precision in the hole drilling process. As the drill is used, the seats and steel jaws wear out. The following signs indicate this:

• The cartridge flies off the shaft.
• The axis of rotation shifts during drilling.
• The drill does not lock or cannot be removed.

Each of these situations is unsafe, so if it occurs, you should stop working with the drill and repair or change the chuck.

The drill has a special threaded short-pitch fastening that holds the clamping mechanism. In addition to it is a screw with a left-hand thread, located at the outer end of the shaft and acting as a control clamp. To securely fasten parts when assembling drills in production, all connections are treated with a sealing compound, which serves as an adhesive layer and protects the metal from corrosion and oxidation after exposure to moisture. This must be taken into account before disassembling the drill chuck.

Do-it-yourself dismantling

To repair or replace a part, it is necessary to correctly remove it from the structure. To do this, you will need to move the cam clamps apart (as far as possible) and unscrew the main fastening screw. Due to the action of centrifugal force or due to the lack of sealant on the thread, it can be very securely fixed in the mounting hole, so great effort will be required during the dismantling process.

This screw has a Phillips-shaped slot, so disassembly is best done using a similar type of screwdriver. Using a mechanical impact screwdriver may break the slots. In this case, additional replacement of the gearbox shaft will be required. To remove the chuck from the thread, you must prevent the shaft from rotating. To do this, the shaft should be kept stationary while twisting. using an adjustable wrench.

Another method of securing is to manually hold the gears from turning. To do this, you will first need to remove the gearbox housing. If the chuck is of a key type, then to stabilize the shaft it will be enough to insert the key into the hole and set it motionless.

Some drill models use a Morse taper rather than a thread for connection. In this case, after unscrewing the mounting screw, you will need to position the drill vertically using a vice so that the chuck is at the bottom. Then knock it out of the mounting hole using a rubber or wooden mallet. In this case, be sure to use an open-end wrench as a gasket. You should hit it carefully to avoid damaging the body and main parts of the drill.

Mechanism repair

Once the clamping part is removed from the drill, it is necessary to determine whether it can be repaired. If molded plastic and rolled metal were used for its manufacture, its disassembly will lead to a violation of the basic properties of the materials and dynamic characteristics. It will be impossible to use such a mechanism in the future. If the cartridge turns out to be collapsible, you can try to repair it yourself. The recovery process will depend on the nature of the problem.

Vibration during drilling or slipping off the axis indicates that the fastening screw has broken. It can occur due to sudden impacts or lateral loads. To solve the problem, you will have to drill out the broken fastener and replace it with a new one.

Another common problem- jamming of the clamping jaws - can happen due to the use of drills with a diameter that is too large and does not match the size of the hole in the chuck. Excessive use of lubricant can also lead to this. Dust and debris generated during drilling in large quantities stick to the lubricant and severely clog the mechanism.

Thorough cleaning of the parts will correct the situation. However, the use of a cleaned cartridge will be possible if the threads inside it are intact. Otherwise, the part will need to be replaced. To avoid clogging of the cam structure in the future, the use of a special protection that fits onto the drill and prevents dust from getting inside will help.

Reassembling the structure after completion of the repair should be done in the reverse order. In this case, special attention must be paid to how reliably the leading element is fixed in the conical recess of the cartridge. Final fixation can be carried out if their longitudinal axes completely coincide.

The joints between parts must be treated with sealant. You can use the drill after it is completely dry. This will take about 10-12 hours.

If the problem does not disappear during operation of the device, this means that the repair or installation was carried out with errors. To eliminate them, you will have to dismantle the device again.