How to care for a decorative rose: learning home floriculture. How to care for decorative rats Soil requirements
Instructions
Perhaps it’s worth starting with the most important thing, namely, arranging housing for the animal. Rats are active animals, so a small cage for a hamster or canary will not suit them. The minimum size of the “dwelling” for one rat should be at least 50 cm in height and 60 cm in length, the ideal width starts from 40 cm. Particular attention should be paid to how closely the cage bars are located to each other. If the gap is too large, the rat may inadvertently get stuck there and break its leg, or simply run away.
Since these animals love to conquer different heights, it is advisable to place several shelves inside the cage on which the rat can jump. A small nuance - problems with the hind legs are very common in males, especially closer to old age. Therefore, shelves that are made of wood are suitable for them, or you can cover ordinary lattice shelves with fabric. The first option is less economical, since wood absorbs odor well and you will have to change the shelf at least once a month, while the fabric can simply be removed and washed.
It is equally important to organize a place to sleep and relax. Rats love secluded nests where they can hide from drafts and prying eyes. For this, both wooden houses, in which you can put a piece of warm flannel, and hammocks, which you can easily build with your own hands and hang from the ceiling of the cage, are suitable. The second option will be better, since it is, again, more economical, and also warmer and more comfortable. Labyrinths and other delights are not so important; this is at the discretion of the owner.
As for the filler, a problem may arise here, despite the fact that there is a lot of it in stores.
Therefore, it is necessary to consider each type and give it a detailed description. A good place to start is with sawdust, the most common litter that people use for rodents. They are quite economical and easy to use and clean, they block odor, but at the same time, dust from sawdust is extremely harmful to rats. The wood from which the sawdust is made also matters. You should not take coniferous species, rats are allergic to them. The same can be said about sawdust with flavorings. Wood pellets have the same disadvantages, but in addition to this, rats can also chew it, especially if they are young rats. Hay does not cause any harm to the animal, but it does not retain the smell, and it is not particularly cheap either. Rags can crumble into threads, in which the rat can again become entangled. The best option is paper towels. They are very easy to change, you can even change them several times a day, they absorb urine perfectly and do not cause allergies. In terms of cost, you can also find quite acceptable options.
Rats are very sociable pets. Without contact with humans or other animals, they will be bored. Therefore, it is best to take two rats at once, but always of the same sex, if you do not want to turn your apartment into a rat kindergarten. Thus, the rat will not get bored if the owner spends a lot of time at work or study.
Decorative indoor pepper is an opportunity to extend the feeling of summer throughout the entire winter period. The plant called pepper is actually a member of the Solanaceae family. Its second name is capsicum.
Ornamental pepper is a perennial that can be grown indoors. Its homeland is South America and Asia. The height of the plant, which is a branched bush with oblong leaves, is from 20 to 50 centimeters.
The flowers of decorative pepper are small and white. The crop is self-pollinating, and after flowering, round or oblong fruits of yellow, red, orange or purple are formed among the shiny foliage. The fruit size is from 2 to 5 centimeters, depending on the variety. A feature of homemade ornamental peppers is the simultaneous formation of flowers and fruits of varying degrees of maturity. The fruits of decorative peppers, due to the content of the alkaloid capsaicin, are hot, bitter and spicy. The stems and leaves of the plant are poisonous.
For successful cultivation, it is important to know how to care for ornamental peppers. Care at home is basically the same as growing other indoor plants, but also has some nuances.
The most popular types with photographs
Different types of ornamental peppers differ in the shape of the leaves, the time of fruiting, the color and shape of the fruit:
- Annual. Varieties of this species have a pronounced vegetable, sweetish taste, which is why it is called indoor paprika. Some varieties of this species may dry out after harvesting the fruits. Annual pepper bushes are compact in shape, 35-55 centimeters high. Popular varieties:
- Tepin.
- Redskin.
- Siberian prince.
- Bush (cayenne). A perennial species, most suitable for growing on a windowsill, balcony, loggia. Fruits up to 6 years. The height of the bush is from 15 to 45 centimeters. Each bush produces 45-50 fruits. Varieties of this species:
- Carmen.
- Firework.
- Bride.
Ornamental bush pepper
- Berry-bearing. It got its name from the flattened shape of the fruit. The original fruits of this species resemble squash. The taste of the fruit is sweetish, with a slight amount of pungency. The species is tall, up to 80 centimeters. Berry pepper varieties:
- Lemon lollipop.
- White crystal.
- Crown Bishop.
- Chinese. A less common species in home cultivation. Bush up to 50 centimeters high. The fruits vary in shape. The most original ones are in the form of a flashlight. The disadvantage of this species is its slow growth. Popular varieties:
- Santa Lucia.
- Devil's tongue.
- Devil's yellow.
- Pubescent. Mainly grown in open ground due to its tallness. Only certain varieties are suitable for growing indoors. For example, Rokot, up to 1 meter high. This species received its name due to the pubescence of the leaves, stems and flowers.
Selection of planting material
For growing at home, it is recommended to choose varieties with a height of no more than 40-50 centimeters. Such bushes can be placed on the windowsill in small pots. Varieties of various colors and shapes will look impressive, creating a contrasting play of colors.
For growing on a windowsill, it is best to purchase low-growing varieties.
Ornamental pepper seeds can be purchased in specialized stores. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the date of seed collection. When properly stored, seeds remain viable for up to 5 years, but germination decreases annually, so seeds no older than 1 year will give the highest percentage of germination.
The planting material must have a uniform color and structure, without dark spots, damage, or curls. High-quality ornamental pepper seeds have a smooth, cream-colored surface.
Rules for growing peppers at home
Growing peppers indoors requires compliance with some recommendations and rules, without which success will not be achieved.
Accommodation in the apartment and selection of soil
The room for decorative peppers should be as light and ventilated as possible, but without drafts. Western or eastern windows are ideal for the plant, since pepper is demanding of lighting. If the room's windows face south, it is not recommended to keep the pepper on the windowsill: the tender leaves will suffer from sunburn at midday.
If the pepper is on a south window, it needs shading
But without sunlight, peppers cannot grow. It is extremely important for him to receive 3-4 hours of open sunlight a day. If there is not enough sun, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting. The lack of light immediately affects the condition of the decorative pepper. It branches poorly, blooms poorly, and practically does not form fruit.
A particularly difficult period for perennial peppers is November-January. At this time, daylight hours are very short. And the plant is stressed. The condition of the pepper is restored by additional illumination with fluorescent or phytolamps. The daylight hours of a southern plant should be at least 12 hours.
The soil for peppers should be as loose and breathable as possible. This crop does not tolerate dense soil. The ideal substrate is obtained by mixing leaf turf, peat and sand in equal quantities. You can add a small amount of sawdust. To increase nutritional value, add a small amount of humus.
Advice. To ensure that the soil composition is ideal for growing peppers, experienced gardeners advise adding agroperlite or vermiculite to the substrate. These ingredients prevent soil compaction and promote moisture retention.
With short daylight hours, pepper needs additional lighting
Temperature and humidity
The recommended temperature for growing peppers is 24-25 degrees in spring and summer, 15-18 degrees in winter. Pepper loves differences in day and night temperatures, so in summer it is recommended to keep it on a loggia or balcony.
Pepper needs moderate humidity. It does not tolerate waterlogging, but also reacts negatively to lack of moisture. When the moisture content in the room is less than 50%, it is recommended to spray the peppers with a spray bottle.
Sowing rules
The time for sowing pepper when growing it from seeds is early February. The first stage is growing seedlings. The seeds are treated with a disinfectant solution (potassium permanganate or), then soaked for 12 hours in a small amount of water for 12 hours. If the seeds are old, they can be pre-treated. This technique does not affect the development of the plant in the future, but the germination energy is doubled. Freshly harvested seeds do not need stimulation.
When the seeds swell, they are placed in seedling containers. For 5-6 seeds, a 300-400 ml pot or tray is quite suitable. The container is filled with soil. At the stage of growing seedlings, a ready-made mixture for seedlings from the store is quite suitable.
Ornamental peppers are grown strictly through seedlings
The seeds are placed at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from each other so that the sprouts do not interfere with each other after germination. The top of the crops is sprinkled with soil in a layer of 0.5 centimeters. All seeds must be completely covered with soil. Then the surface is moistened with a spray bottle. The soil should be slightly moist, but not wet, since in waterlogged soil the seeds will begin to mold and rot.
Greenhouse conditions are created for the seeds. Cover the top of the container with film and place it in a bright, warm place. To germinate, seeds need a temperature of at least 24 degrees.
Important. Do not place the container on a window in direct sunlight. In such conditions, a greenhouse effect will be created under the film, and the seeds will simply “cook”.
When shoots appear, the film is immediately removed from the planting container. Fresh seeds germinate in 10-14 days. The process of germination of old seeds may take several weeks. After the emergence of seedlings, the air temperature is briefly reduced to 18-20 degrees.
Planting seedlings in a permanent place
Seedlings are ready for transplantation to a permanent growing site at the stage of two pairs of true leaves. Each sprout of decorative pepper is grown in a separate pot. When several plants are planted together in one container, the weaker ones will stop growing and will not bear fruit.
Only one plant can be grown in a pot
To begin with, small pots of 200-300 milliliters in size are suitable. It is not recommended to plant immediately in a large pot, since soil undeveloped by roots will acidify during watering. When transplanting, the plant is placed at the same level at which it grew previously. It is not recommended to bury the plant, since additional roots do not form on the pepper stem, as happens, for example, in tomatoes.
A layer of drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pot. To prevent the drainage mixture from clogging the hole in the bottom, place a fragment of a ceramic pot on it with the convex side up. The pot is filled with pre-prepared soil mixture and the sprout is planted in it. The soil around the plant is lightly compacted and moistened abundantly. During the rooting process, approximately 7-10 days, the pepper is not watered. Until the roots have taken root, excess moisture is not absorbed by the plant, and the root may rot.
Advice. When transplanting a sprout, pinch off its main root a little. This technique promotes the formation of a large number of lateral roots and the formation of a powerful root system.
How to grow decorative peppers from cuttings
In spring and summer, ornamental peppers can be propagated by cuttings. For rooting, a side shoot is cut off. The cut is treated with a root formation stimulator and placed in a mixture of sand and soil (1:1). The cuttings are watered abundantly and covered with a glass or plastic cap. The pot is placed in a bright, warm place.
To propagate ornamental peppers, you can use the cutting method.
During the rooting process, the cap is lifted daily for ventilation. To make the cutting take root faster, it is recommended to pinch the top of it. The cutting can be immediately planted in a pot in which it will grow in the future. In this case, the pot is filled with the substrate recommended for growing ornamental peppers. If the cutting has taken root in the sand-soil mixture, after 20-30 days it is transferred to a larger pot along with the earthen ball in which it grew previously.
Cultivation care
Standard care for indoor peppers
When grown in a pot, caring for ornamental peppers includes the following:
- Watering. In spring and summer, peppers need to be watered as the soil dries out. For irrigation, warm water that has been standing for at least a day is used. The earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out. If the plant wilts, it may lose its leaves and flowers, and there will be no fruit.
- Spraying. On particularly hot days, pepper should be sprayed every 2-3 days.
- Feeding. Ornamental pepper is a nutrient-demanding crop. The plant will indicate a lack of any substance by its appearance. The purple tint of the lower leaves indicates a lack of phosphorus. Lightening of the leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen. Peppers need fertilizing with mineral mixtures every 2 weeks. Phosphorus-potassium mixtures are applied at the roots, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the foliage.
- Crown formation. Pruning decorative peppers is a mandatory procedure that helps increase the number of fruits and the formation of a beautiful crown. When the first fruits form, each shoot is pinched. The crown of the main stem is pinched immediately after the first flowers appear on it. This technique promotes the growth of new side shoots, and the pepper bush becomes fluffy and round. It is also recommended to trim all shoots that escape from the general crown.
Transplanting decorative indoor peppers
It is necessary to replant ornamental peppers with partial soil replacement every year. The main goal of this procedure is to increase the nutritional value of the soil. In order not to injure the plant, which reacts extremely painfully to transplantation, some gardeners use partial replacement of the soil in the pot without removing the plant from it.
Possible diseases and pests
Most often, decorative peppers are attacked by mealybugs and spider mites. Mealyworm attacks the roots of the plant. To prevent its occurrence, it is necessary to disinfect the soil before planting.
Plants are often affected by mealybugs
Spider mites appear on peppers when the recommendations for moisture content in the air are violated . The plant must be bathed regularly and the air humidified. In winter, when the humidity level in the apartment drops sharply due to heating, it is recommended to place an open container of water next to the pot of pepper.
If the soil is waterlogged, peppers may develop root rot or late blight. If any spots appear on the leaves, the plant must be treated with a copper-containing preparation. The appearance of root rot is indicated by wilting of pepper leaves. In this case, the plant is removed from the soil and completely replaced.
Difficulties and secrets of growing indoor peppers
The main problem with growing ornamental peppers at home is the lack of sunlight. Pepper is a child of the sun, and without it it will not feel comfortable. To compensate for this deficiency, in the summer you can place pots of pepper outside or on the balcony.
In the summer, pots of peppers can be taken outside
The multi-colored miniature fruits that form after flowering give indoor peppers a special decorative effect. To increase the number of ovaries, experienced flower growers advise periodically shaking the pot with pepper during the flowering period or brushing the flowers one by one with a soft brush.
You can get acquainted with the features of growing ornamental peppers from the proposed video material. Enjoy watching!
Decorative rabbits are smart and loyal. Eared pets can be taught the command “Fu!” and “Come to me!” They don't bring slippers, but they respond to their name. They quickly get used to their owner and get very bored when they are left alone or with strangers. Furry babies need love and proper care, otherwise they often get sick and die early.
Choosing a pet
Decorative rabbits are bought at a pet store or from breeders. Choose a healthy animal with thick and shiny fur, clean eyes and nose. The pet must be mobile and respond to sounds and touches. If the rabbit looks shabby and tired, constantly sits in one corner or lies down, it means that he is sick.
The new family member is immediately taken to the veterinarian to have his nails trimmed. The first procedure is carried out by a doctor, because a rabbit’s nails have many blood vessels that can easily be damaged. A professional will show you how to use nail clippers correctly so as not to cause bleeding.
The rabbit is vaccinated, its ears are cleaned and its eyes are washed. Treat your pet against helminths and lice. A clean and vaccinated baby is brought home, introduced to his new cage and waited until he adapts.
Spacious and cozy
Rabbits need space to jump and run. Pets who live in cramped kennels and don't move much have thinning bones and joints that become brittle and weak. The cage should be 4–6 times larger than the rabbit. We recommend options with a plastic tray. Rabbits constantly get stuck in the slatted bottom and get their claws caught in it.
If the tray is too slippery, cover it with a rubber or fabric mat. A layer of straw or sawdust is poured on top. Rabbits do not tolerate strong aromas well, so the litter should be odorless.
A small house is installed in the corner of the cage, because long-eared animals are used to sleeping in minks. A wooden version or cardboard upholstered with fabric will do. A soft mat or sawdust is placed inside.
Rabbits are clean. They do not defecate near the feeder or water bowl and quickly master the cat's litter box. A plastic tray is installed opposite the house and the filling is changed regularly. The pet will not go to the dirty toilet.
Decorative rabbits have a sensitive and delicate stomach, so food should not be thrown onto the bedding. The bowl should be large and heavy, preferably ceramic. Eared pets love to make noise. They lift dishes with their teeth, knock plates on the floor or iron bars. The drinking bowl is attached to the cage to prevent the rabbit from knocking it over. Automatic varieties that supply water in portions are recommended.
In a large apartment, a special enclosure or pen with high walls is installed for the animal so that the pet can walk and frolic. Bunnies will love a running wheel, old rags, and balls with bells.
Long-eared animals constantly chew on something, even if they have recently eaten, so your pet should have a thick cherry or pear branch. Another fruit tree would also work, as would acacia or maple. It is forbidden to give spruce or pine blanks that contain a lot of resin.
Adaptation
Rabbits are not as brave and trusting as puppies or kittens. The new family member will sit in his hole for at least 3-4 days until he gets used to the surrounding smells and sounds. During this period, you need to treat your baby with dry food and hay or grass, change the water regularly, and make sure that other pets do not approach the cage.
An eared pet should not be petted while it is eating or drinking, otherwise the pet will become very frightened and refuse food. The rabbit will get used to its owner faster if you constantly talk to him. Tell something in a quiet, gentle voice.
When the animal stops being afraid and crawls out of the house, it is offered a treat and allowed to sniff the hand so that it learns to recognize the owner’s smell. They constantly repeat the name so that the rabbit understands his name.
First, the baby is taught to be touched, and when he stops flinching and pressing his ears back from each stroke, they try to pick him up. You cannot insist if the pet breaks out and resists. Rabbits' bones are fragile. It is very easy to break a baby's leg or spine if you squeeze him too hard or let him fall to the floor.
Walking around the apartment
Has the rabbit settled down and is now asking to be released? Long-eared pets should only walk around the apartment under the supervision of the owner. First, they hide all electrical appliances and wires, remove dangerous and toxic objects from the floor, and then release the animal from the cage.
You cannot leave your rabbit alone and go to work or to the store. Toddlers and teenagers love to jump on sofas, armchairs, and chairs. They may lose their balance and fall or land poorly, breaking ribs or breaking a leg.
Eared pets chew furniture and shoes, eat wallpaper and carpets. Lint or paper clogs the animal's stomach, causing indigestion. You have to rinse the intestines yourself or go to the veterinarian.
You need to keep an eye on your rabbit if there are other animals in the house. Children, frightened by a dog or cat, can hide under a closet and get stuck, crash into a wall and get hurt.
Hygiene procedures
Long-eared pets are clean, so they regularly lick and wash themselves. They are always neat and smell nice.
You cannot bathe rabbits. The pet's fur is covered with a protective layer of fat, which is responsible for the thickness and shine of the fibers. If you constantly wash off sebum, your animal will develop dandruff and irritation. The fur falls out and becomes dull.
Rabbits are bathed if they are very dirty after walking outside. Warm water is poured into a basin and a little shampoo for cats or rodents is added. Place a towel or cloth napkin at the bottom of the container to make the pet comfortable.
Rinse the baby 2-3 times with clean water to wash away any remaining shampoo. The rabbit is wrapped in a terry towel and waited until its skin dries. A wet animal should not be allowed outside or into a room with open windows, because due to drafts it can catch a cold and die.
It is forbidden to dry your pet with a hairdryer. A buzzing electrical appliance scares your pet. He experiences enormous stress, which can cause him to get sick or refuse to eat. Hot air dries out the baby's skin, so the coat becomes hard, brittle and dull.
The animal's eyes are periodically wiped with cotton swabs soaked in warm boiled water. Check the ears regularly. If a lot of brown sulfur has accumulated inside, it is removed with gauze wipes and a weak solution of potassium permanganate or boric acid.
Angora rabbits with long hair are trimmed to protect them from heat stroke and matting. The procedure is carried out once every 2–3 months with special scissors or a machine.
Eared pets are regularly brushed with a soft brush to remove excess hair. When an animal licks itself and eats the fallen fibers, they are not digested, but remain in the stomach, turning into a lump. The rabbit is not always able to burp it, so you have to give the baby drugs or take him to the veterinarian. Hair also impairs digestion and leads to the development of gastrointestinal diseases.
Regular short-haired rabbits are brushed three times a week, and daily during the molting period.
Cleaning the cage
To prevent your apartment from smelling like rotten hay and feces, you need to change the bedding regularly. If your rabbit uses a litter box, the cage should be cleaned every 2-3 days. Does your pet refuse to go to the special toilet? You will have to throw away sawdust daily.
The cage tray is wiped with a damp cloth and odorless detergents. Concentrated scents irritate rabbits and impair their sense of smell. Bowls for water and dry mixtures are rinsed twice a day to prevent bacteria from multiplying in the dishes.
Proper nutrition
A rabbit's health depends on its diet. In winter, the pet is given hay. It improves the animal's digestion and cleanses the intestines of swallowed hair. Proper fresh hay has a light green hue and a dried grass aroma.
In spring and summer, long-eared pets are given greens:
- dandelion leaves and flowers;
- sagebrush;
- clover;
- yarrow;
- sage.
Grass is collected in the field. You cannot feed your rabbit plants that grow next to the highway. The greens must be dried. If an animal eats a sprig of yarrow that has drops of dew on it, its belly will swell.
Juveniles need protein and calcium for normal muscle and bone development. The rabbit will get protein from cereals: buckwheat, oatmeal, pearl barley. Wheat and barley grains, as well as fresh corn, are rich in protein. Chalk contains a lot of calcium. A piece of the mineral is placed in the cage along with a branch of a fruit tree so that the pet sharpens its teeth and replenishes vitamin reserves in the body. They give rabbits compound feed or special mixtures intended for long-eared pets. The main thing is that they do not contain dried fruits or nuts.
- Chinese cabbage;
- carrot;
- cored apples;
- Jerusalem artichoke.
Young individuals are given more grain and hay, while adults are recommended to eat succulent food. Vegetables and greens protect pets from obesity and liver problems.
The rabbit is given some grain or apples so that the food does not sit on the plate for a long time. Eared pets need distilled water. Mineral and carbonated drinks are prohibited.
To prevent the rabbit from scattering hay throughout the cage, special hanging balls or feeders are purchased for dried grass. They come in plastic and iron and are attached to rods.
Tip: Furry pets have fast digestion. A rabbit that has recently eaten should not be picked up, otherwise you will have to wash them of the remnants of a digested apple or wheat.
Planting in a tray
The owner who is going to let the animal out of the cage should accustom it to the cat litter box so that there is no need to wipe up puddles and sweep away feces.
The straw bedding is temporarily removed from the cage. A plastic tray is placed in the corner and filled with sawdust. As soon as the rabbit wants to defecate, he is lifted by the withers and transferred to the toilet. For young animals, 3-4 lessons are enough for them to understand what the cat litter box is for.
If a rabbit walking around the apartment makes a puddle in the middle of the room, then it is wiped away. A rag soaked in urine is placed in a tray and a rabbit is brought in so that it can sniff the fabric. You cannot poke, spank or shake the animal.
How to pick up
It is forbidden to grab the baby by the ears, otherwise the animal’s hearing will deteriorate. In a hanging position, it is difficult for a rabbit to breathe. The pet's heart rate increases, it begins to panic and break free.
The fluffy pet is lifted with both hands, placing the palms under the chest and stomach. If the animal breaks out, it is better to lower it to the floor. Do not grab the baby by the paws or squeeze the chest too much.
Noisy neighbors
Rabbits, like cats, sleep during the day and are awake in the evening and at night, staging noisy concerts. Animals knock their paws on the cage and throw dishes, roll balls and run in a wheel. How to calm a raging pet? Cover the cage with a thick blanket or towel, leaving a small hole for ventilation.
Rabbits do not tolerate heat and drafts well. In the summer, to prevent the animal from getting heatstroke, you need to cut off its thick coat and place a bottle of frozen water next to the house. Cover the cage with a damp towel.
Mature males and females may require a mating partner. During this period, pets become aggressive and attack people and other animals. The owner has to buy a second pet and breed decorative rabbits. But it is easier to sterilize your pet when it is 8–9 months old.
Decorative rabbits are cute, but weak creatures. They get sick due to improper care and unbalanced nutrition. Eared pets need constant care and attention. If a person is not willing to spend time combing fur, trimming nails and cleaning the cage, he is advised not to get a decorative rabbit.
Video: caring for a domestic decorative rabbit
Decorative rabbits are the best gift for children. They are cute and cuddly animals, keeping and caring for them brings a lot of joy to their owners. The cost of keeping rabbits is low, and they are easy to train. They do not need to be walked as they can be litter box trained.
In this article we will tell you about which rabbits are best to buy and how to care for them at home.
Did you know? The lifespan of a rabbit in the wild is about a year, while a domestic rabbit can live 8-12 years with proper care.
Choosing a breed of decorative rabbits
Before purchasing, you need to understand what breed of decorative rabbit you want to have in your home.
Rabbits of this breed have blue or red eyes, and their fur is always white. He has a massive head and thick, short fur. These rabbits weigh up to 1.5 kg. The character of females and males is noticeably different. Males are calm and behave friendly towards people. Also they may be lazy or dislike unnecessary worry. Females are quite nervous or even aggressive. We recommend buying a male.
Colored dwarfs
This breed of dwarf rabbits is characterized by erect ears. The rabbit's weight reaches 1.5 kg. There are many varieties of color: white guard, black fire, laughter, Siamese, white, red and marder. Red satins are especially often purchased. They are red in color. They also vary in character: they can be affectionate, friendly, and sometimes aggressive. During puberty they can be very aggressive: they can bite or lunge at people. But with time it will pass.
You can win the love of rabbits of this breed by scratching their cheeks and forehead between the ears. Unlike long-haired rabbits, colored dwarfs do not need to be combed.
These rabbits are slightly larger than dwarf ones. The weight of an adult rabbit is up to 2 kg. Their ears hang down and this gives the impression of a peaceful and calm nature. These rabbits love to eat well. Their ears droop gradually, but rabbits grow very quickly. By the time rabbits are 4 weeks old, their ears will droop. If your rabbit has one ear standing up at this age, don’t worry, as over time the ears will droop completely. Their character is calm and friendly, they do not show aggression towards people. They quickly become attached to family members.
"Fox" dwarf rabbits
These are dwarf rabbits with long, smooth hair. They weigh up to 1.5 kg. They are called foxes because their fur is strong and thick. The length of the hair can be up to 7 cm. They come in different colors: white, blue, red, chinchilla and others. Their character is different - they can be affectionate, but they can also be aggressive. Rabbits need to be brushed once a week, and if you are not prepared for this, then fox rabbits are not the breed for you.
These rabbits have thick fur all over their body and face. Their fur is more like fluff. It is very soft and thin, can reach 20 cm in length. Most often, they can even be confused with small dogs. The weight of rabbits can reach 1.5 kg. Temperament ranges from calm to aggressive. They also need to be brushed frequently, especially during shedding.
Rex
These are short-haired rabbits with velvety short fur of various colors. They weigh up to 1.5 kg. When they are small, they seem very ugly, but with age they become real handsome. Their character is calm and they do not show aggression.
Once you have chosen the breed of decorative rabbit for yourself, you can start purchasing.
To purchase the breed you need, you need to know exactly how a decorative rabbit differs from a regular one. Since they are sold small, you will not notice any special differences in them, but upon purchase you must be shown pedigree documents and medical certificates. Therefore, it is better to contact sellers from trusted pet stores with a good reputation. There are several points that you should check when purchasing rabbits:
- Inspection of the cell. If it is dirty and smells unpleasant, it is better not to buy the animal.
- Relatives. You just need to ask the seller to show the rabbit's parents or siblings. If they are not the same size, it is a mixture of breeds, and it is better to choose a different rabbit.
- The rabbit should not have tangles or dirt on its face or ears.
Who to choose: male or female
If you are still in doubt whether it is worth getting a decorative rabbit, then our answer is obvious - it is worth it. These fluffy animals will bring you a lot of joy and happiness. But the choice does not end with choosing a breed and examining the animal. A new task appears - choosing the sex of the rabbit.
Male rabbits secrete specific odorous substances with which they mark their territory. Females also mark, but Males can be castrated and this will solve the problem with the unpleasant odor.
The female may develop uterine cancer. This happens if she does not have a partner. There are two ways to avoid this - sterilization or buying a male.
Females also love to build nests from anything they can get their hands on. This could be wires, wallpaper, cardboard, newspapers and other things. This can be eliminated by sterilization.
If you listened to the seller's advice that male rabbits are more playful than female rabbits, this is not true. It depends on the upbringing, treatment of the animal and the character of the rabbit.
How to care for small rabbits: keeping them at home
After purchasing a decorative rabbit, you need to know how to properly care for it at home.
Did you know? The smallest breed of rabbit is called the Little Idaho, or pygmy rabbit. The maximum weight of an adult reaches only 450 g, and the length ranges from 22 to 35 cm.
Animal cage house
Before buying a rabbit, you need to provide the animal with a home.
You can buy an enclosure with an area of 2-4 square meters. m. The floor of the space can be covered with a clean hypoallergenic rug.
In the corner you can place a drinking bowl in the form of a ceramic bowl. Automatic ball drinkers are not suitable, as the ball gets into the water supply tube, and the rabbit remains for a long time without water. The water needs to be changed in the morning and evening.
The food bowl should also be ceramic, as the rabbit will not be able to turn it over. Plastic and metal in this regard are light and dangerous. The rabbit gnaws them and bends them, subsequently he can cut himself on the edges.
The tray is suitable for a cat; it can be placed in a corner and filled with wood granular filler. Cat litters are not suitable as they can cause side effects such as allergies. Wood filler absorbs odors well from a decorative rabbit, and is more convenient to dispose of.
Since rabbits love hay, you can attach a plastic hay holder to the wall of the enclosure. The rabbit gets the hay at any time, and it will not be scattered throughout the enclosure.
It is not necessary to buy an additional house for a rabbit, but the animal can retire and relax in it. You can make it yourself or buy it at a pet store. Rabbits usually like to sleep there.
As you can already understand, domestic rabbits do not pose any great difficulties in keeping and caring for, and with an enclosure the task becomes even easier.
When choosing cages or accessories for them, we offer some tips.
If your rabbit likes to run around the house, then you don't need to buy a large enclosure. You can simply buy a medium sized cage and leave the door open.
Important! When the rabbit leaves the enclosure, be alert, as the animal may damage the apartment.
A small cage for a rabbit will not work, as adult rabbits love to run around. The tray that is in the cage should not be retractable, since part of it still remains in the cage. You also need to keep the cages or enclosure clean. It needs to be cleaned every day and a general cleaning done once a week. You need to take the rabbit out of the cage and into the enclosure, give him some food, water and a couple of toys.
You will need to remove old food, dirty bedding, fur and hay from the cage, but don't remove everything completely. It is better to leave some kind of cloth or bowl for food or water, as the rabbit may not feel its smell and will become worried. Next time, remove this corner and leave the other untouched.
Then you need to check the condition of the cage and the rabbit itself. The amount of food or drink you eat can tell you how much your rabbit drinks and whether he has a good appetite. We also recommend that you pay attention to your rabbit's waste. The cage needs to be checked for damage or various holes. Some holes or sharp corners can be harmful to your rabbit. Toys that have been damaged or worn out should be thrown away.
The bottom tray needs to be cleaned and the litter replaced. After this, you can put new toys in the cage and return the rabbit to its place. For weekly cleaning you need to prepare the following:
- hard brush;
- bucket;
- a toothbrush (you will need it for cleaning corners and hard-to-reach places);
- vinegar spray;
- garbage bag;
- dishwashing liquid;
- gloves.
It is best to choose a convenient day for yourself (a weekend) to do general cleaning. This will help to avoid rapid contamination of the rabbit's fur and diseases that may lie in wait for the animal. Move your rabbit to a different area before cleaning. Don't forget about water, food and toys so that your rabbit doesn't get bored.
Then you will gently remove the old bedding, hay, fur, water bottle and feeder. After that, put on gloves and start cleaning.
Important! After using the gloves, store them in a trash bag for use on your next cleanup.
Again, you can't clean the entire cage, it's best to leave a corner marked for your bunny so he won't be bothered when you return him to the cage.
Use a stiff brush to clean the cage. You will need warm water and dish soap. After you clean the cage, use a toothbrush to clean the dirty corners.
Do not use chemicals under any circumstances. They can be harmful to the rabbit's health.
White vinegar will be the best remedy. Prepare a solution of 1 part vinegar and 1 part warm water. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and spray onto the cage after cleaning. The vinegar should remain in the cage for 10 minutes. After this, you need to rinse the cage, avoiding the corner left for the rabbit.
Then the cage needs to be placed on the balcony. Sunlight will quickly dry out the cage, and you will quickly return the rabbit to its place. Water and food feeders should be disinfected using liquid soap and hot water.
At the end, lay out a new bedding and put everything in its place. Now you can return the rabbit to its place and dispose of all waste.
After cleaning, you can put all utensils in their usual place and wash your hands thoroughly.
Important! If your rabbit is sick or has been sick, the cage needs to be cleaned very carefully.
Place for rabbits
The cage should be placed in a well-ventilated place. There should be an optimal temperature, without dust and dirt. This place should be bright, but the light should be diffused. The location should not be near a tumble dryer or where a window will be constantly open. Sudden or loud movements or noises place unnecessary stress on your rabbit.
The rabbit must be protected from cats or dogs. They may disturb or frighten him.
You also need to release the rabbit into the wild. In the room in which the walk will take place there should be no wires, sharp objects, small toys or other objects that could harm the animal.
Since the size of the decorative rabbit is small, it does not need much space. It will be enough to place the walking place on a bed or carpet.
Walks and games for rabbits
Walking in nature is best done in the warm season, that is, in spring or summer. You need to accustom your rabbit to such walks gradually - first take him out for 10 minutes, and next time for 20, and so on. The best place for a walk is a green lawn where dogs are not allowed to walk.
If you have a summer house, then you can place an enclosure there where the rabbit can play calmly. If there is no enclosure, then you can keep it on a harness. The enclosure should be located in the shade to prevent the rabbit from getting heatstroke. But it’s better not to keep a rabbit on a harness. Some believe that this can harm the rabbit's health, not to mention discomfort.
Your rabbit may be stressed. You will know this very quickly by his behavior. He may lie on the ground and not get up, bulge his eyes, rush from side to side, trying to get out, and often run in different directions.
If you have a summer house, you need to worry about the following:
- The rabbit should not run outside the site.
- There should be no poisonous plants on the site.
- The rabbit needs to be taught to eat grass and greens.
- The animal needs to prepare food and water, as well as toys.
Important! Before walking, the rabbit must be vaccinated against VGBV and myxomatosis.
You need to breed your rabbit at temperatures up to 23 °C, but if you decide to walk your rabbit in winter weather, then you need to accustom it to low temperatures in advance in the fall.
If you decide to walk two unfamiliar rabbits, then it’s better not to. Rabbits may panic, become stressed, and even refuse to eat. Since rabbits have different microflora, your pet can get sick from direct contact with another rabbit. But if you still decide to walk the rabbits together, then consider a few important points:
- Both rabbits must be spayed or neutered, otherwise this walk will turn into pregnancy or a fight.
- Rabbits must be vaccinated.
- If your rabbit shows signs of stress, take him home.
To prevent the animal from chewing wallpaper or paper, make a “labyrinth” out of a cardboard box with different entrances and exits. Some rabbits like to dig "trenches." To prevent it from damaging the cage, buy a linen rag. Other pets love to play with balloons or toilet paper. From all of the above, we can conclude that any toys are suitable for rabbits, the main thing is to understand what he likes.
Proper and balanced feeding: rabbit diet
After choosing a cage and the rabbit itself, as well as toys, the owners think about what they need for a decorative rabbit. The answer is obvious - of course, proper and balanced nutrition.
Small rabbits need to change their water frequently. Be sure to ask the seller what kind of water the baby was given (boiled, settled, filtered or bottled). The baby rabbit should be given the same water. Hay needs to be changed very often, and the greener it is, the better.
Feed is given to rabbits 2 times a day, 2 tbsp. l. You can find out about the brand of food from the seller. You need to feed this food for two weeks, after which you transfer the rabbit to another food, mixing it with the first in equal proportions.
Important! A sudden transition from one food to another leads to problems with the gastrointestinal tract.
Vegetables, fruits, branches and grass can be given to rabbits only after the 3rd month. They must be clean, fresh and dry. Rabbits need to be introduced to fresh food gradually. The rabbit will chew on mineral stones, as it may lack calcium or minerals.
Rabbits should not be fed the following:
- dairy products;
- sweet, salty, spicy or fatty foods;
- food from your table;
- citrus;
- spoiled food;
- meat products;
- legumes;
- feed for other animals;
- indoor plants, wet grass;
- cabbage, onions, beets and garlic.
Important! Don't give poisonous plants to rabbits.
It is better not to give red cabbage to your pet; Brussels sprouts or cauliflower will do, but only the stalk, leaves and heads.
Prevention and treatment of rabbit diseases
When purchasing, many owners ask sellers how long decorative rabbits live at home. The average life expectancy is 7-8 years. There are also centenarians who live up to 10 years or more.
This depends on the following factors:
- healthy parents;
- proper feeding, maintenance and care;
- genes and predisposition of parents to any diseases;
- injuries or diseases that lead to a shortening of age;
- active lifestyle of a rabbit.
Intestinal problems are most common in adult rabbits. They appear if the rabbit consumes poor food, large amounts of legumes and is kept in an uncleaned cage.
Signs of diseases:
- liquid stool with mucus;
- bloating;
- frequent diarrhea;
- the animal is not active, and its appetite worsens.
Constipation. You need to give your rabbit 5 grams of Carlsbad salt or 1 tsp. castor oil or perform an enema with soapy warm water, then let him run. When the constipation passes, he can be given oatmeal broth and carrots.
Bloating. Give the rabbit 5 ml of 10% ichthyol solution. After this, rub the rabbit’s belly and let it run.
Diarrhea. Make the following mixture: 0.1 g synthomycin, 1-2 tsp. decoction of oak bark and give it to the rabbit 1-2 times a day.
Frostbite. If you notice swelling in the ears, and bubbles with clear liquid appear on the rabbit's body, this is frostbite. With grade 1, you need to bring the rabbit into a warm place and treat the frostbitten area with goose or rendered pork fat. If you notice severe swelling, rub 1% camphor ointment into the sore spot.
Heatstroke. When your rabbit just lies on its side, doesn't eat, doesn't move much, and the mucous membranes of the mouth, nose, and eyelids are very red, it means your rabbit has suffered heatstroke. The rabbit needs to be urgently moved to a cool place with fresh air, and its paws should be covered with a damp cloth, changing it every 5 minutes.
As soon as the mucous membranes of the rabbit's nose turn red, sneezing appears and the temperature rises, it means that your rabbit has inhaled dust, harmful gases, or has been in a draft for a long time. In this case, you need to keep the rabbit warm, improve its nutrition with vitamin feed and monitor the cleanliness of the air.
At fractures and bruises you need to treat the injured areas with iodine, and apply a cold compress to swelling and bruising. After reducing pain and swelling, we recommend a massage.
in rabbits it occurs only with excess body weight. The soles of the rabbit's paws are injured, metabolic processes are disrupted, and the wounds become infected. Unsanitary conditions, high air temperature and humidity contribute to the development. Initially, calluses, cracks and hematomas appear on the soles of the rabbit's paws. There may be slight bleeding from them. If an infection gets there, fistulas and ulcers form.
The rabbit does not eat, often lies down and is indifferent to games and walks. To prevent this disease, you need to keep the cage clean and remove dirt and droppings frequently. At the initial stage, you need to lubricate your paws with lead ointment (concentration - 10%). If ulcers bleed, it is better to treat with Vishnevsky ointment and apply bandages for 2-3 days. After this, the compresses need to be changed. In advanced cases, contact your veterinarian.
– the most dangerous disease caused by myxomas. It is carried by rodents, mosquitoes, fleas, lice and ticks. The signs are as follows: small tumors appear around the genitals, head and anus, and inflammation of the mucous membranes of the eyes is also observed. The animal swallows with difficulty, refuses to eat and quickly loses weight. If this disease is neglected, the rabbit may die in a week to 10 days.
VGBK – viral hemorrhagic disease of rabbits, which is transmitted by air. The disease is virtually asymptomatic and ends in death. There is no cure for this disease. To prevent the disease, get vaccinated.
Nematodirosis appears in rabbits due to poor nutrition or unsanitary conditions. The pathogen penetrates the small intestine. The rabbit quickly loses weight, does not play, does not eat, and defecates with diarrhea. To get rid of the disease, you need to use "Naftamon".
Contagious runny nose develops at low temperatures and drafts. The virus enters the nose of rabbits and develops in about 5 days. Then purulent mucus begins to secrete from the nose, the rabbit often sneezes, and the membranes of the nose become red and swollen. You need to drip your nose with 10 drops of a 1% solution of furatsilin and penicillin for two weeks.
Fleas spoil the quality of the skin, and also bite through the skin, feeding on blood and forming wounds. Signs of the disease are as follows: red dots appear on the body, and the rabbit often itches in these places. You need to clean the cage frequently and keep the area well ventilated. Also, rabbits need to be bathed in a half-percent solution of bromocyclene 3 times a week, after which they take a week off.
Sexual issue in rabbits
Decorative rabbits are most often smart and affectionate, and breeding and keeping them will bring you a lot of pleasure.
One female rabbit brings 7 rabbits at a time. Sexual maturity in males and females occurs by 4 months, but it is better to allow a female rabbit to mate at the age of five months, and males at the age of seven months.
In order for rabbits to reproduce well, you need those females that produce large offspring and feed the rabbits well. Each baby needs a stencil with the date of birth, name, breed, mating and litter date, and a note indicating how many rabbits were in the litter. Rabbits that you have designated for mating do not need to be fattened, as this reduces sexual activity.
Therefore, a couple of weeks before mating, rabbits should be fed boiled potatoes with bran, oats, hay and branches. If the crossing is successful, then the male and female can be used for another 5 years. The female goes into heat every 9 days in winter and 6 days in summer. The duration of the hunt is 5 days. At this time, the rabbit scratches, growls, refuses food, and her genitals look swollen and bright pink.
At this time, the rabbit calmly allows the rabbit to approach her. The mating process lasts several seconds. After mating, you need to leave the rabbit for 5 minutes so that mating can be attempted again. After 5 days, the female rabbit can be placed back in the cage with the male. If during mating the female bites and runs away, it means she is already pregnant and will create nests out of hay or paper. The female's pregnancy lasts a month, and after a couple of days the female is ready to mate again.
Did you know? Rabbits have 28 teeth.
Now that you know everything about the decorative rabbit, you can easily buy a rabbit and raise it. With proper nutrition and maintenance, it will give good offspring.
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Kalanchoe is one of the most popular flowers kept at home. In total there are about two hundred species of this plant. They are divided approximately equally into decorative and medicinal. The main emphasis of medicinal species is the luxurious, fleshy leaves that have medicinal properties. An ornamental plant has the bonus of cute flowers. At the same time, both decorative and medicinal functions are found in only one species - bryophyllum.
Home care is almost identical for all types, however, there may be some nuances.
Decorative Kalanchoe comes from the tropics. Therefore, the plant is quite patient with various kinds of unpleasant conditions. But still, when providing care at home, you should get as close as possible to recreating your native microclimate. This way the plant will be more pleasant internally and it will be able to make it even more pleasant for its owner externally.
Lighting
This is an absolutely unpretentious ornamental plant, if we consider first of all care in the matter of providing lighting. At home, when choosing a place for Kalanchoe, you can actually be guided not by the wishes of the flower, but by your own. After all, this decorative beauty can grow in almost any light. The pot can be placed either in partial shade or in diffused light.
Even exposure to direct sunlight will not particularly damage the flower. They can only give the leaves a reddish tint. However, there is a nuance: sunbathing this plant in the afternoon is contraindicated, it has a negative effect. Therefore, if the plant is located near a window, its care may have to be supplemented with daily shading from two o’clock in the afternoon.
Although, if we take into account the preferences of decorative Kalanchoe, we should remember that they are more light-loving. And, if medicinal types are preferable to be placed on eastern and western windows, then decorative ones - on eastern and southern ones.
It is also worth taking care of an additional source of lighting during the cold season. The plant will signal a lack of light by stretching strongly upward, as well as losing the color saturation of the upper leaves, despite proper care in other matters.
Air temperature
The most comfortable temperature for a plant at home is from 15 to 20 degrees. It is worth noting that Kalanchoe tolerates heat quite well, and is also not too sensitive to low temperatures. But you should not allow the temperature to drop below plus 7 for a long time.
Soil requirements
The composition of the soil is not very important for the plant. The best option is a substrate for cacti with neutral acidity.
Watering mode
What needs to be taken seriously is the watering regime. Care in this part does not tolerate errors. But still, it is better to underfill Kalanchoe than to overfill it. This is explained by the fact that this plant, which belongs to the Crassulaceae family, has the ability to accumulate moisture in the leaves and stems. Therefore, Kalanchoe is quite capable of surviving without water a little longer, compensating for the lack of internal moisture reserves. But an excess can lead to waterlogging of the entire plant, which often leads to rot and other infections.
It is strictly forbidden to leave residual moisture in the tray. In winter, you need to significantly reduce watering, you need to let the soil dry out completely. In hot weather, you need to water more often; it is also advisable to supplement the care with spraying. However, you can’t overdo it either. Since the leaves are full of moisture, they can absorb it from the air, which can also lead to waterlogging. At home, you should not maintain very high air humidity outside of hot weather.
There are also other special preferences when it comes to watering at home. In warm months, Kalanchoe should be watered with cool, settled water, but in cool periods - with lukewarm water. The watering technique should be such as not to touch the stem of the plant; it should be poured only on the ground.
Fertilizing
Kalanchoe does not need frequent feeding. The need may arise only during the transition from spring to summer. For fertilizers, it is better to choose preparations for cacti, but you should use a solution twice as weak as recommended by the manufacturer. Most often, the best time to feed a flower is the first week after transplantation.
Transfer
But this home plant often needs replanting. Since it grows quickly, including the root system. The transplantation procedure at home should be carried out in the last month of spring, when the plant is in the active growth phase. But it is extremely undesirable to replant a flowering plant.
Diseases and pests
If the leaves and petals on the plant begin to turn yellow, aphids may have settled on it. You can save yourself by applying care using a solution of laundry soap; it is better to remove the affected areas.
The appearance of a grayish coating on the leaves may indicate a scale insect infestation.
If overwatered, the plant is susceptible to rot.
Reproduction of decorative Kalanchoe
Reproduction at home is possible using the following methods:
- Cuttings. Rooting Kalanchoe is most often not difficult. It can take root on its own or just a fallen leaf lying on the ground.
- Seeds. The seeds are sown in the last month of winter. There is no need to plant seeds deeply, but rather sow shallowly. There is also no need to cover them with soil. It's better to just cover it with glass or film. Caring for seedlings should consist of periodic ventilation and moistening. The soil should always be slightly moist
- Children. Children with roots of the plant periodically appear simply on the leaves.
