Recommend gun oil. Cleaning weapons: how to do it right
It is of primary importance, since the safety of the weapon and the absence of signs of corrosion, which destroys the gun, depend on it.
It will not be a revelation that after hunting you need to immediately clean your gun, since oxidation processes start instantly and the gun barrels begin to become covered with rust.
If you are irresponsible about cleaning and lubricating your gun, this will inevitably lead to the appearance of a rash and large cavities in the barrel. Some might say that rashes and blisters are not a problem, since the gun shoots well even with such manifestations.
We can agree with this, but only partially, since the shells in the barrel develop at high speed, and as a result, the gun will quickly turn into a piece of useless iron.
Lubricating a gun is a mandatory activity that every hunter must carry out at certain intervals.
Lubricant for hunting rifles
Every metal part of a hunting rifle requires lubrication with special gun oil. A special place in this process is occupied by gun barrels, which are lubricated with copious amounts of lubricant.
There are several types of gun oil that need to be used to keep the gun in good condition for many years.
Before cleaning the bores, the most suitable oil that can help remove traces of carbon deposits and lead is alkaline oil for cleaning hunting rifles.
This oil should be applied generously into the bore after removing carbon deposits using a regular rag.
The barrel of a gun with alkaline oil applied must be left for 30 minutes so that the lead or carbon deposits begin to break down.
After this, you can quite easily remove carbon deposits from the bores. The end of this activity is the thorough removal of alkaline oil from the trunks.
Like this gun lubricant is used using alkaline oil, but there is another oil that is used to lubricate the barrel and metal parts of the gun on a daily basis or on long term.
The most suitable for such purposes is neutral gun oil. It is this oil that is used to preserve the gun for a long time during the off-season or as a daily lubricant.
The gun should be lubricated with neutral oil once a month to maintain normal level lubricant, which ensures the safety and protection of your weapon from corrosion.
The cost of a modern hunting rifle can rival the cost of a classy car, and in some cases even exceed it. Of course, like a car, a gun needs maintenance after use. We will show you how to properly clean your weapon after a hunt and try to dispel existing misconceptions.
Thanks to careful care and handling hunting weapon can serve faithfully for many decades. Conversely, if you are not careful, the gun will break down within a few years, or even months.
Each hunter has his own opinion on how to care for a weapon. Some people open their gun safe once every two to three years, while others open their gun safe several times a day. Both are wrong. For example, you went hunting, shot and are going to return. Many believe that cleaning weapons can be postponed until you arrive home, because modern guns have chrome-plated barrels on the inside, which, it would seem, a short time nothing will happen. But how correct is this? Let's be honest: such an attitude is unacceptable, regardless of what kind of gun we are talking about - a Russian TOZ or an imported weapon.
You need to start cleaning your gun right away, right during the hunt. Of course, if there is complete confidence that you won’t have to shoot today. The most important thing is to approach the cleaning of barrels correctly, since they bear the main load when fired and have a significant impact on the action of the gun. If this is not done in a timely manner, then shells will soon form in the bores of the barrels, and then rust. Therefore, regardless of whether the barrels are chrome-plated or not, immediately after shooting they should be treated with any oil composition in an aerosol package. These are special gun lubricants domestic production, and imported non-special products - WD-40, LM-40 and many others. They have one similarity - aerosol packaging, which makes it much easier to use. After finishing shooting, it is enough to open the gun and inject liquid into the barrels from the breech side. During the time it takes you to get home, the composition will do its job: soften the remaining soot. But, despite the fact that the ingredients have the same packaging, their effects are not the same. For example, domestically produced neutral gun lubricant has very weak penetrating properties, so its exposure time is quite long - up to two to three days. But it takes a very long time to weather and perfectly protects the metal. Imported WD-40 and LM-40 have a very liquid consistency, and therefore have high penetrating properties. They instantly saturate the carbon deposits and penetrate well into the entire depth of the formed rust. But all this is just a prelude. The very sacrament of the action called “cleaning the gun” begins, as a rule, later, immediately after returning from the hunt.
Regardless of how and where the weapon was transported - in the car, in the trunk, in a hard or soft case - you should wait at least an hour before complete disappearance condensate The latter forms on all parts of the gun due to a temperature change when the weapon goes from cold to warm. Cleaning a weapon requires not only physical strength, but also a set of special devices, rags and oil. It is important to know that a steel spiral brush for removing lead can only be used for older guns whose barrels are not chrome-plated. After all, chromium is a viscous and loose metal, so it is very easy to damage. To remove lead coatings in chrome-plated barrels, you can use a brush made of brass and copper. Spiral brushes are, as a rule, not used for cleaning chrome-plated barrels. In addition to brushes, cleaning rods are used for cleaning trunks, which can be non-assembled or prefabricated. The latter are used more often. The prefabricated cleaning rod consists of three or four elbows, twisted together with special threaded bushings.
They are made of wood, plastic or aluminum. IN Lately a lot of cleaning rods made of brass rod appeared. Which to choose? This is a personal matter for everyone. For one person, a plastic ramrod is inconvenient because it slips in the hands. For others, an aluminum cleaning rod is not suitable, as it gets your hands dirty and leaves marks on the wood of the gun that are difficult to remove. Many people, in the old fashioned way, prefer the good old wooden cleaning rod - it doesn’t slip, doesn’t get your hands dirty, and doesn’t break, unlike a thin cleaning rod made of brass rod. But you can clean your weapon without using a cleaning rod. In this case, the ruffs or visher are secured on a special twine, which is pulled through the trunks. Before you start cleaning, you need to remove the shoulder strap from the gun and prepare everything you need. It is best to clean the gun directly in your hands, and not, for example, on a desk. All accessories, oils, etc. It's better to put it nearby. It is advisable to install a switched-on table lamp at a distance of several meters, by looking at it through the trunks you can control the quality of cleaning. It is very convenient and pleasant to clean your gun in front of the fireplace. The reflection of the flame is an excellent way to determine whether lead remains in the barrel.
First, a visher is screwed onto the cleaning rod, and a clean white rag is placed on it - with its help, softened carbon deposits are removed from the barrels. Attention! Do not use the same rag when cleaning several trunks. If the rags come out of the barrels without traces of oil, it’s time to start dry cleaning. To do this, use a cleaning rod with a brass or steel brush attached to it. After this procedure, traces of lead plating left by the projectile appear on the inside of the barrels. But after passing through the rags they were practically invisible. Sometimes dry cleaning of trunks is called “loosening”, since this changes the structure of the lead coatings and alkaline oil penetrates well into them. To distinguish a neutral lubricant from an alkaline one, it is enough to lubricate a brass sleeve that has been cleaned with emery. If the sleeve darkens after a while, it means the lubricant is alkaline. The barrels are lubricated with alkaline oil using the same cleaning rod with a visor screwed onto it. However, you should not cheat on the visher a large number of rags that will hardly pass along the bore. It is best to make a small winding, moisten it generously with alkaline oil and, lightly touching the walls of the trunks, coat them liberally without gaps.
You can successfully use an ordinary bristly brush for this. It is impossible not to take into account the possible undesirable effect of alkaline oil on the external parts of the gun - on the bluing, wood. Therefore, only the inside of the trunks is treated with alkaline oil. After treating the barrels with alkaline oil, you should leave them for a while and begin cleaning the locking part of the gun. To do this, use a rag lightly moistened with neutral oil to wipe all metal parts of the locks without disassembling them. The inside of the locks is lubricated with the same neutral lubricant, dripping into the slots of the triggers and the firing pin shafts. They also lubricate the locking part of the gun barrel lock and the fuse. During the time you cleaned the locks, the lead coating in the barrels under the influence of alkaline oil loosens and is easily separated. Remove them using a steel or brass brush without removing the previously applied alkaline grease. After the lead has been completely removed, the barrels are wiped with a clean rag until all remaining oil is removed and the inside is lubricated with ordinary neutral oil.
The outer metal parts of the gun are coated with neutral oil and lightly polished with a clean rag. The gun should be left in this condition for several days (usually three to four days). During this time, a small amount of lead and soot will be released from the pores of the metal barrels into the oil. Then the cleaning of the barrels is repeated. The quality of cleaning the trunks is determined by the cleanliness of the rags - if it is dirty, it means that the cleaning was done poorly and it is advisable to repeat it in a few days.
You need to be careful when cleaning guns with choke choke constrictions: a brush that has completely jumped out through them, as a rule, goes back in with great effort. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the cleaning rod in order to avoid breakage, and carry out the actual cleaning of the barrels in vertical position, resting the muzzles on the floor, on which a newspaper is spread in advance. When cleaning the weapon, make sure that no oil gets on the wooden parts. To care for them, use special furniture polishes in a matte or glossy shade. If gun oil does get on the wood, it should be removed by wiping the surface with a dry cloth.
It is best to store weapons in a safe in a lubricated state. However, before leaving for your next hunt, you should take out the gun and remove any remaining lubricant. This is especially true for barrels, since the remaining lubricant contributes to increased deposition of lead on them.
Modern science does not stand still, and from time to time new weapons cleaning products appear on the market, making it easy to remove soot and lead from barrels. However, anything new should be treated with great caution. For example, the currently commercially available barrel cleaning composition contains ammonia. This certainly makes the gun easier to clean, but the water present in the base of this cleaning agent gets on the external parts of the gun, in particular on the blued parts and parts made of light alloys, destroying the coating and leaving whitish stains. So you shouldn’t take risks by choosing an untested product. Old helpers, alkaline and neutral oils released by modern technologies, is the best thing that can be recommended today for cleaning weapons.
- Articles » Professionals
- Mercenary 6411 0
Now hunting is one of the varieties active rest. Moreover, this pleasure is not cheap at all. The main thing is that the gun does not fail at the most crucial moment; it must be properly looked after during storage. After each use of a smoothbore gun for hunting, various residues must be removed from it: acid, lead, polyethylene and powder soot. This must be done using an entrenching tool and special means. Here, for example, is how to clean a shotgun with alkaline oil.
After wrapping a rag around a cleaning rod and dipping it in oil, you need to apply the liquid to the inner surface of each barrel. Then, with another rag soaked in alkaline oil, you need to lubricate the entire ejector mechanism, the breech section and the outer surface of each barrel. You need to wait 10-20 minutes, and then remove the oil and dirt with a clean rag. To remove it from the inner surface of the trunks, you will again need a cleaning rod. And if you don’t have a gun yet, but you decide to buy one, then you can do it with your own hands. It's much cheaper that way. But you need to know how to transfer a gun to a new owner.
This must be done to avoid problems with the law. To do this, you will need to obtain permission from the internal affairs authorities to obtain a license to purchase this type of weapon. Then both parties to the transaction need to write an application for re-registration of the gun there. And only then will it be possible to own smoothbore weapons on legally. But you don’t have to wait for a gun to appear in your arsenal. Experienced hunters will tell you how to catch a duck without a gun.
To do this, you need to make a special trap, for example, an earthen mortar. It works as follows. The basket, covered with a false lid and sprinkled with earth, acts as a hummock on which the duck can clean its wings. But, having descended onto the surface of such a hummock, the duck will fall into the basket and will no longer be able to take off. The hunter can only wait, camouflaged nearby, and periodically call the duck with a decoy. In the meantime, the gun will already have time to re-register. But you need to know how to store a gun so as not to violate the requirements established by law.
The gun itself and its ammunition must be stored in such a way that they are inaccessible to children and other people who do not know how to handle weapons. Therefore, the gun must be stored in a special metal safe, unloaded and disassembled. You should also store cartridges in the same safe, but in an additional metal box locked with a padlock. By the way, when purchasing a used weapon, one more piece of advice on how to buy a gun secondhand would not hurt.
The most important thing is to make sure that the previous owner owns it legally, that is, the gun has all Required documents and it is registered with the internal affairs bodies. If everything is fine, then you can proceed with the transaction. You should not buy a gun without documents, even if it costs ridiculous money. After this, there may be problems with the law that will bring the new owner to the dock. Therefore, you need to follow the advice given in this article, and then everything will be fine. Happy hunting and no feathers!
Any weapon needs thorough cleaning and lubrication after each actual use. This applies to both those units that use a cartridge with powder charge(in particular) and pneumatic barrels operating on gas cylinders. Berkut gun oil allows you to take care of your own weapons more carefully and fully, and therefore it should be available to every weapon owner.
Use of gun oil "Berkut"
Berkut gun oil, which you can buy using the services of our online store, has two main modifications. It is necessary to talk in more detail about the effect they have on the surfaces being treated and how to use them correctly.
Alkaline oil Berkut is intended for removing oxides from the surface of contaminated metal parts. Treatment with it is necessary regularly. A small percentage of an active chemical compound - caustic sodium - is added to the oil, which readily reacts with any salts and iron oxides, and also softens carbon deposits and other mechanical contaminants. Alkaline gun oil Berkut acts approximately the same as a solution baking soda to remove household contaminants - but the effect is much stronger, and the depth of penetration is greater.
Thanks to the use of this oil, there is no need for too active cleaning of parts and components with a brush, which often leads to a decrease in the accuracy of the shot due to abrasion of the rifling and increased play of moving elements. Pollution comes off much more readily. It is worth noting, however, that only owners of weapons with gunpowder cartridges will need to buy Berkut gun oil in the alkaline variation.
Neutral gun oil Berkut is used exclusively for lubrication, as it does not react chemically with carbon deposits and rust. It is necessary to process components with its help only after preliminary cleaning. In this case, the metal will be reliably protected from contact with oxygen (and, therefore, from rusting) by a thin film of oil.
It is worth noting separately that Berkut neutral oil is used to lubricate exclusively steel parts of weapons. Before processing, you must make sure that all wooden overlays and decorative elements have been removed, since wood, after contact with oil, loses its natural elasticity and cracks and breaks more easily.
For ease of storing and using gun oil, reliable cupronickel ones with the letters Ш and Н are used, which means there are containers for alkaline and neutral oils. Or they use .
Neutral gun oil Berkut for pneumatics is used regularly, regardless of whether shooting is carried out using gas weapons or not. It does not need cleaning due to the absence of mechanical impurities when fired, but it also needs thorough lubrication, like gunpowder.
Buy gun oil "Berkut" from us!
We know a lot about weapons and know what to advise you for quality care of them. You can order Berkut weapon oil in the offered assortment, which is quite enough for the full processing of any weapon, directly on this page.
The quality of the product is guaranteed by its manufacturer - this brand is very popular and in high demand. Berkut gun oil, which you can buy from us at fairly reasonable prices, can be purchased in any quantity convenient for you (if the required quantity is in stock) and delivered to your home along with other purchases. This oil is sold in plastic bottles with a squeeze spout, the capacity of which is 150 ml.
Date: 2013-02-26
During the operation of any weapon, including small arms, the question arises of proper care for it in order to extend its service life, and most importantly, to achieve trouble-free operation in any conditions, even the most extreme. When it may not be at hand modern means created by last word scientific and technological achievements.
Timely, proper cleaning and lubrication of the barrel bore, and all weapons, is the only way to keep it in working condition. The official service life of rifle barrels is from 20 to 25 thousand rounds, but with proper care it can be significantly extended. For proper care and cleaning you need to know a few simple rules.
Never use any vegetable oils, as they quickly thicken, become covered with dust, and the moving parts of the weapon stop working. You should also not use any other random oils, especially automobile oils, which dry out quickly. And besides, automobile oils contain sulfur, which is quite aggressive to metal. You should also not use solid oil because it dries quickly. Under the hardened film of grease, rust forms on the metal.
When firing, carbon deposits form in weapons; they have an acidic environment. Powder deposits are neutralized by substances that have an alkaline reaction, because alkali and acid are mutually neutralized. The weapon is best cleaned with a very simple and effective solution, which can easily be prepared from water, ammonium carbonate, and potassium dichromate. In the following proportion:
1 liter drinking water,
200 g ammonium carbonate,
3-5 gr. potassium dichromate.
The weapon is cleaned with a brush soaked in a solution, and then the barrel bore is wiped with tow. Cleaning with the solution is continued until the carbon deposits are completely removed. After which the bore is wiped with dry tow and then with a clean rag. If necessary, this procedure must be repeated until the traces of soot completely disappear. This solution best cleans carbon deposits by softening solid particles. But this solution should not be left on the surface of metals to avoid rust.
Carefully wipe the remaining solution dry and then lubricate it with weapon oil or neutral oil (neutral oil does not have the smell of kerosene).
If it is not possible to use the solution that we described above, the barrel and weapon can be lubricated with alkaline oil (it emits the smell of kerosene). Alkaline oil corrodes and neutralizes carbon deposits quite well, but it should be remembered that it, like the solution, cannot be left on the surface of the weapon, because alkali causes metal corrosion.
The oil is also carefully removed, wiped with a clean rag and lubricated with neutral oil.
Because All these lubricants are common in peaceful conditions; in combat, weapons are often cleaned with kerosene or ordinary diesel fuel. Kerosene has good fluidity, penetrates deeply into the pores of metal, and also has a strong alkaline reaction, easily neutralizing any rust and dirt.
Kerosene contains a small amount of water. To dehydrate kerosene, you need to pour two tablespoons of salt into a heated frying pan, fry the salt and pour it into a bottle of kerosene to neutralize the water. After two days, the dehydrated kerosene is drained, leaving a sediment. Kerosene prepared in this way is poured into oil cans and used in the field.
Practice has shown good performance of weapons in winter conditions well maintained with kerosene. Kerosene can be used as a winter lubricant in the absence of other lubricants. It should also be remembered that combustion products are more soluble in water than in oil. Therefore, as a last resort, carbon deposits can be cleaned with human saliva, because... it has a slightly alkaline composition. After this procedure, the barrel and weapon must be wiped dry, especially in winter, to avoid freezing.
And then it’s better to clean it with the same kerosene.
A gun barrel can also be cleaned with soapy water; a soap solution also has an alkaline reaction and removes powder deposits well. You can also use gray ash from a fire; ash also has an alkaline reaction. The ash is applied to a wet brush and the barrel is cleaned. After cleaning, the barrel is immediately wiped dry and lubricated.
Any proper cleaning of a weapon should completely neutralize the chemical effects of powder gases.
Cleaning is carried out in the following order:
First, the barrel bore is wiped with a dry rag secured to the wiper. This removes a layer of light carbon deposits. Then the barrel is wiped with a stiff brush with wound tow, moistened with any alkaline composition from those described above. This is done to remove solid combustion products burnt to the metal.
They are not removed with a soft cloth, but on the contrary, they are rubbed even deeper into the metal. Brass brushes moistened with an alkaline composition are very good, almost ideal for these purposes. They remove not only solid carbon particles, but also layers of tombac from bullet casings that accumulate at the corners of the rifling grooves. It is under such accumulations that the most intense rusting of the metal occurs. Leave the alkaline mixture in the barrel for a few minutes, and then wipe the barrel bore with a clean, dry rag. Lubricate the bore with slightly alkaline or neutral oil using a brush. A few days after cleaning, run a white cloth over the trunk and you will find traces of sweaty soot on it. If it is black, then it’s okay - this is a natural process of combustion products sweating out of the metal. But if she is red-haired, that’s already bad. These are traces of rust. This means that the weapon was poorly cleaned after shooting. Take a cleaning rod and start cleaning from the beginning.
According to this principle, cleaning is carried out daily in the army. Immediately after cleaning the weapon, the barrel bore is lubricated with oil. If the weapon will be cleaned in the near future, cleaning with a slightly alkaline lubricant is possible. If not, then the barrel bore is lubricated with neutral oil.
This way all weapons are cleaned and lubricated. Non-chrome-plated barrels of three-line rifles are very susceptible to rust. But chrome-plated barrels should be cleaned no less thoroughly. Sooner or later, chemical penetration of aggressive gases occurs at the molecular level under the chrome coating, and invisible chemical processes, the chrome peels off, collapses and the barrel becomes rusty. Therefore, weapons need to be cleaned as often as possible.
Do not immediately disassemble or clean weapons brought from frost into a warm room. After 20 minutes it will be covered with droplets of moisture. After this, the weapon is disassembled, wiped dry and cleaned. In summer when combat use the weapon is wiped dry to avoid the adhesion of sand and dust. In autumn and spring, the weapon is lubricated with a thin layer of neutral oil. In winter conditions, the weapon becomes sensitive to lubricant thickening. But it is necessary to lubricate the weapon for the reason that snowflakes and droplets of water stick to parts not covered with lubricant, and all this freezes to each other. Therefore, in winter when low temperatures from minus 30 or more, the weapon is lubricated with kerosene, or diesel fuel, but only with a very thin layer. This method has been tested in combat.
S. A. BUTURLIN
BULLET HUNTING RIFLE AND SHOOTING FROM IT
PUBLICATION OF THE MAGAZINE “HUNTER” VSEK0H0TS0YUZ
MOSCOW - 1926
17. Handling and caring for a slug gun.
The general rules of careful and careful handling of a gun also apply to rifled guns, and to a very strong extent.
First, the bullet travels and can be dangerous at much greater distances than buckshot or buckshot. We must always remember that a bullet, especially a long and hard one, even hitting the ground, can ricochet far, i.e. jumping. Three-line combat bullets can travel up to 2 miles, and the most common hunting rifle lead bullets can travel up to a mile.
Shooting at a strong upward slope is especially dangerous (which, on the contrary, is quite safe with shot), for example, at a koscha sitting on a birch tree. With such slopes, the bullet flies to extreme distances and, when falling, can seriously injure.
Secondly, a bullet is often shot at long distances, when it is easier to make a mistake and shoot at a person or pet, thinking that you are shooting at wild beast. Moreover, in winter people often dress in animal skins and furs. Therefore, caution is especially necessary.
Any contamination and rusting affects the action of a rifled gun even more strongly than the action of a shotgun, so this weapon must be looked after especially carefully. Be sure to clean it after each shooting and keep it clean and lubricated.
When shooting with cartridges containing smokeless powder, it is absolutely necessary to clean them on the same day and as soon as possible after shooting, and to clean them again on the second and third days.
For all these cleansings, in essence, little time is needed. The material is, firstly, any rags, combs, tow or tow (if possible, clean, without grains of sand and the like), and, secondly, kerosene, dehydrated with salt (a tablespoon per bottle), or just boiling water.
For cleaning after nitro powders, of course, various special alkaline lubricants (pyrol, ballistol, ormas, etc.) are very good, if you have them on hand.
It is only necessary after washing, in any case, to wipe the barrel completely dry, and only then lubricate it (with good Vaseline, unsalted lard or special lubricants) for storage.
With very small calibers, you often have to use either a metal cleaning rod, and then you need to pass it through a wooden trim so that it does not knock on the edges of the barrel (then you can clean from the barrel), or even use a string to pull a brush or other cleaning agent through the barrel. Then you need to pass the twine through two similar pads, one at each end of the trunk. In general, if possible, you should prefer to clean the barrel from the breech.
In many rifle systems the barrel is screwed rather tightly into the box, but the accompanying Figure 167 shows how easily this difficulty can be overcome. The box with the bolt completely open is carefully taken into a vice, lined with thick leather or two pieces of soft wood and secured only enough to hold the rifle.
Rice. 167. Unscrewing the rifle barrel.
Then take a strong stick and an arsh. into a 3-inch little finger or a little thinner rope and twist it as shown in the figure, making sure that the first turn, with the stick, is as close as possible to the very base of the trunk.
Then, twisting the ends of the stick, easily unscrew the barrel, if everything is in order, i.e. it didn't rust.
In a rifled barrel, even more so than in a smooth one, you should beware of lead bullets with lead bullets and “copper plating” with shell bullets. The more initial speeds bullets, the faster these deposits form, sometimes invisible to the naked eye, but affecting the combat and safety of the gun. Keeping the barrel perfectly clean and lightly drying the bullets also only slows down these deposits, but does not get rid of them.
Lead can be removed by intensive cleaning with metal brushes and tightly wound tow with turpentine (the metal brush should not be too tight). You can use mercury on a clean, dry trunk, rinsing it for 1-2 hours.
It is much more difficult to get rid of “copper plating”. In pre-war times, these deposits were dissolved with ammonia solutions, which, unfortunately, cannot be preserved for long.
Here is one of the recipes.
Strong ammonia (28-29 0/0) - 40 spools or 170.1 grams.
Boiled water (preferably distilled) - 26 spools, 57 shares or 113.4 grams.
Ammonium sulfate 6 gold. 62 shares or 28.35 grams.
Ammonium carbonate 3 ash. 4 shares or 13 grams.
Both ammoniums are ground into powder and dissolved in a mixture of water and ammonia. Store in a well-sealed container for no more than 2 weeks. But both powders and ammonia can be stored separately, also well sealed.
The specified quantity is enough for 7 cleanings of a three-line barrel.
The barrel is cleaned dry, the chamber is thoroughly plugged with a good plug (preferably rubber), a piece of rubber tube about 1 inch (4.4 cm) is pulled onto the barrel so that part of the tube, about 1/2 inch. (2.2 cm), protruded above the barrel, then the solution is poured into the barrel full and with the top (which is what the tube is used for). They keep it like this for 30 minutes, then quickly pour out the solution, quickly remove the tube and stopper and quickly and thoroughly wipe the barrel dry and thoroughly clean it with lubricants, wipe it dry again, and then lubricate it for storage.
If the copper plating is strong, you can leave the solution in the barrel for up to 1 hour. When dissolving copper or cupronickel, the solution turns blue.
Now people abroad prefer intensive cleaning with tight rags and special ointments that clean the barrel.
Apparently it is simply a mixture of a neutral (or slightly alkaline) fat, like Vaseline, with a very finely ground powder of a substance that scratches copper or cupronickel, but does not wear off the strong barrel steel of modern strong nitro rifles (like Vienna lime or the like).
It is useful to add that alkaline lubricant for cleaning barrels after shooting smokeless powder(but by no means for constant lubrication and storage) you can make it yourself.
Take a quarter glass of wood (“methyl”) alcohol and dissolve it in it until saturated, i.e. until it stops dissolving, a few pieces of pure caustic soda.
Mix the resulting solution thoroughly with a whole glass of good mineral oil (vaseline oil, spindle oil).
This composition fizzles out, so store it in glass jar it is best with a well-ground glass stopper, or with a good ordinary stopper boiled in paraffin.
If the lubricant turns out to be thick and not fluid, you need to dilute it somewhat with solar oil or even good clean kerosene. If, on the contrary, it is too thin and watery, then add good Vaseline.
Use only for cleaning, generously lubricating rags or hair brushes, etc., changing wipes and lubricant several times.
Note
The book was written in 1926, the author uses measures of length and weight that may be unknown to the modern reader.
1 vershok - 4.445 centimeters
1 spool (96 shares) - 4.266 g
1 share - 0.044435 g
