Input block. What parts does the door block consist of: main and additional components

Entrance doors are of priority importance for the security of the premises and a comfortable stay in it. A low-quality wooden door block can significantly darken your life.

How to make a door warm and how to install it correctly step by step? What types of blocks are there? What to focus on when choosing a door? Read the answers to these and other questions about door blocks below. You can also look at the photo for many interesting options.

With glazing

As you know, from July 1, 2017, the new GOST 475-2016 “Wooden and combined door blocks” has been in effect. It combines all past standards with impressive changes and additions.

Nowadays, testing methods, technical requirements, and characteristics contained in GOST have been brought to uniform European quality standards. At the same time, it stipulates both the block itself and the requirements for materials for its production and components (accessories).

Marking

Interior products

First let's talk aboutoperational x parameters. According to them, each door block must have a special marking, focusing on which The buyer can determine the degree of reliability of the product.

Table 1 shows the classification:

In addition, “resistance to wind load” is provided. This parameter is determined according to SNiP 2.01.07-88 “Loads and impacts”, valid in the territory of the Russian Federation.

Single-field designs

Now let's take a closer look at each characteristic.:

1. Mechanical strength. External blocks (OU) must have a strength class of at least Md4, internal (ID) - Md3, interior (IM) and for bathrooms (DS) - Md1 or Md2.

1. Soundproofing. Noise levels are measured in decibels (dB). Blocks with normal insulation - doors of class Z-1. They reduce noise by 32 dB or more, and Z-2, which reduce sound penetration by 26–31 dB.

Class Z-3 reduces noise by 20–25 dB. At the same time, products that reduce noise by less than 20 dB are not considered soundproofing.

1. Thermal insulation. According to SNiP, the heat transfer resistance for external doors is provided with a value of at least 0.6. In this connection, the highest class of thermal insulation marked T1 must have a resistance of 1.0 or more, T2 - from 0.83 to 0.99, T3 - from 0.40 to 0.82. All products with a heat transfer resistance of less than 40 are not classified as thermal insulation.

Another option

1. Breathability. Volumetric air permeability is determined by the amount of oxygen penetrating through the door block into the room over a certain time (m3/h-m2).

Class B1 has a value of 9, B2 - from 7 to 17, B3 - from 17 to 27. Blocks with a designation of this parameter over 27 are not classified as airtight.

Blind construction

1. Water permeability limit. As a rule, this characteristic has priority for outdoor units (OU). At the same time, when installing doors in rooms with high humidity (saunas, showers), emphasis should also be placed on this parameter.

The highest class of this limit is designated A, and has a value of 600 Pa. Then come B - 500 Pa, C - 400 Pa, D - 300 Pa and D - 150 Pa. Doors with characteristics less than 150 Pa are not classified as external or waterproof.

Asymmetrical canvases

note! All these technical specifications must be registered in accompanying documents And in the product passport. An example of marking a wooden door block according to performance characteristics: DN 1 Rl 21–10 Z2 T3 MD4 GOST 475-2016 (photo below)

External copy

This is what it looks likewooden door block, external, single-leaf, hinged, left. It is 21 dm high and 10 dm wide. TO soundproofing class products Z- 2, thermal insulation - T3, strength - Md4. Block with theseparameters will save almost perfectly your home from cold, noise . And will also provide home safety.

Glazed product

Design features of door blocks

You probably noticed that in the mentioned exampleblock markings along with technically and operational our characteristics The structural properties of the door are also noted. In Table 2 we describe each feature.

Structural components	Designation	Photo
By direction and method of opening
Right swing block. Left-right blocks are distinguished by the location of the hinges when viewed from the opening side and the locking handles. In other words, depending on which hand is more convenient to open. That is, it will be inconvenient for you to open the right block with your left hand and vice versa.	Rp
Left swing door block. In a double-leaf block, right or left opening depends on which half will swing open first.	RL
The door block is sliding. The sliding mechanism of the block is mounted on the wall above the canvas, and the element is directly placed in the opening.	R	Single-sex
double-field. It can be deaf and glazed.	P2	Sliding double-leaf
There are various models of such a block. Possible solid or glazed, varying in section width. Similar blocks can be selected for any opening from 90 cm to 3 meters.	WITH	Folding glazed
By number of paintings
Single field block. Standard wooden door blocks are produced in the following standard sizes: 21 x 7 (bathrooms, storage rooms), 21 x 9 (internal, interior), 21 x 10 (external). The height of the block can vary up to 24 dm.	1
Double block. Double-floor blocks are made with an opening width of more than 1 meter. They can be 21 x 13, 21 x 15, 21 x 19, 24 x13, 24 x15, 24 x 19. All dimensions for blocks are indicated in decimeters. The width of the canvases also varies. There are symmetrical and asymmetrical canvases, when one is narrower than the other.	2	Double-field
According to the presence of glazing
Solid wooden block. The canvas can be smooth or milled. It is made from solid wood or it can be paneled.	G
Various material options are used for glazing - transparent, frosted, corrugated, colored glass. Stained glass and combinations of different textures are also possible.	ABOUT	Glazed arched
By presence and type of threshold
Door block without threshold. This option is very convenient when there are small children or wheelchair users at home. Plus, the absence of a threshold makes it easier to lay the floor covering.	PrB	No threshold
Often, blocks with a threshold are placed in bathrooms to prevent moisture from penetrating into another room in case of accidental flooding, as well as at the entrance.	Etc	With a threshold
Door block with a lowering threshold. It is also called “smart” or anti-threshold. When the door is closed, the bar with the threshold is lowered. This provides protection from drafts, dust and moisture.	By	With a lowering (“smart”) threshold
Swinging door block. A distinctive characteristic of this type of product is the canvas, which opens in both directions. It can be solid, glazed, single-field or double-field.	TO	Double-floor with swinging canvases

Now let's talk about the markingscharacteristics and design features door blocks. So, the designation DM 2Rp 24-13 O Pr Md1 described Interior door block, double-leaf, hinged, right, for an opening 24 dm high, 13 dm wide, glazed, with a threshold, strength class Md1.

Insulated products

It is no secret that up to 70% of heat loss from a building occurs through doors. When, for example, the door to an apartment is poorly insulated, its residents regularly catch colds, and there is frequent excessive consumption of electricity in the room due to the use of heaters.

Freezing

Nowadays, manufacturers produce high-quality blocks with a decent percentage of room protection from low outdoor temperatures. And there is no longer any need to manually insulate the doors, as was done 10 years ago.

Insulated wooden door blocks have always been very popular, mainly due to the unique thermal insulation properties of wood. Well, thanks to the additional insulation, they became leaders among analogues made from other materials. In addition, the sound insulation of the block increases. Moreover, after processing the wood has an attractive appearance.

For increaseIthermal insulation of doors is appliedsuchinsulation:

• Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. QualitativeHeat and sound insulator, lightweight, resistant to mold, mildew and microorganisms. True, over the yearsactive use of the structure leads todestruction of the material. Between the joints there may becracks appearso-called"Bridges of Cold"

Foam insulation

• Mineral wool. Also good material forinsulation. But he has similar onesproblems, as in the case of polystyrene foam. Frequent vibrations that accompany the opening and closing of doors contribute to movement, deformation, and clumping of slabs, and these are again “cold bridges.”

Although, the low price of the material contributes to the fact that manufacturers quite often use it in the manufacture of insulated doors. We are talking mainly about economy class designs. In the production of expensive models, other materials are used.

Insulation with mineral wool

• Polyurethane. Thefiller is considered to bethe mostreliable insulation. Foamed polyurethane fills the smallestcracks and voids, andafter hardening it turns into a dense mass. Shehas magnificentthermal insulation qualities. The service life of the insulation without changing the technical characteristics reaches 50 years.

In individual construction, the external entrance door is often made of a combination door.Directly block and the sides facing the street produce made of metal, and internal yuyu part is made of wood.This combination makes it possiblemore durable protection are you home from breaking and entering, and without loss of degreesound and heat insulation of the door itself. Also the beautiful and presentable appearance of the wooden panel from the inside remains.

Certificates for insulated wooden door blocks must certainly contain informationabout the used material e.i indicate its technical characteristics.

Installation

For mounting the door block it is advisable to invite specialist He will install it efficiently, reliably fit all structural elements, and carefully install the fittings. When there is no way to call a professional, put wooden door block can be and with your own hands.

N and an example of a standard single-floor product we'll tell you main stages of installation. When purchasing, you need to check the presence of all assembly elements. What does it include?

Equipment

Standard element configuration

1. The door block itself or, as it is also called, the “frame”.

The width of the box depends on the installation location. For interior doors its size is 74 mm, for exterior doors – 94 mm.

When disassembled, the element consists of long vertical posts and two (for doors with a threshold) or one (without it) short horizontal jumpers.

1. Door leaf.
2. Platband.

The door assembly must contain 4 pieces of long and 2 short pieces for installation on both sides.

1. Additional board.

This element is usually purchased separately, but is sometimes included in the package. It is necessary if the wall thickness exceeds the width of the box. And hinges, handles, locks and other accessories are purchased separately depending on the preferences of the owner.

Installation stages

Installation of a double-floor product

note! Modern sets come immediately with a fine finish, in connection with which it is necessary to make very careful insertions hinges, handles, wall mounting, installation at clypeus. Careless execution this work may turn around chips, scratches and other mechanical damage to surfaces.

Table 3 lists the main steps installation of interior doors.

Profile posts and lintels must be cut to the size of the opening, taking into account the gaps for the mounting foam (30–50 mm). Then connect them together with self-tapping screws. When the block is without a threshold, secure the bottom with a bar to fix its width in a given place
The grooves for the hinges are carefully cut out on the desired stand. A canvas is placed in the block, the gaps between the door and the frame are leveled, they are made identical on all sides (2–3 mm). On it, the locations of the reciprocal grooves are marked with a pencil. If you do not maintain the gaps, then after installation from above or below, unsightly gaps may appear, and the canvas itself will not adhere well to the block.
After selecting the grooves, loops are hung on the stand and the canvas. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a special coating; simple ones rust over time and spoil the appearance of the doors. When the hinges are detachable, the canvas can be removed for subsequent work.
Box installation. Make sure that the block fits freely into the opening and there is a space of 30–50 mm around the perimeter. When the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the block, then it is necessary to position it relative to one edge, installing the element flush with its surface. Wooden wedges should be used to securely fasten the wooden door block so that there are equal gaps for the foam on all sides. When foam alone is not enough, you can fix the box with screws or anchors, installing them flush. Be sure to use a building level at all stages of installation to accurately align the vertical and horizontal of the block.	Installation
Installation of additional boards. If necessary, an extension is installed. It is inserted with one edge into the groove of the box, and the other is aligned flush with the wall surface. Wedges are used for fixation. Then the additional board is attached using foam. When the width of the board is very large, the top, middle and bottom of the free edge of the element are secured from the inside with bars. This is done to prevent it from moving inward when foam is applied.
Fastening with polyurethane foam. Before starting work, you must close the door and lock it in a certain position. To prevent the box itself from being squeezed inward when the foam expands, spacers must be placed between it and the canvas. What is corrugated cardboard, folded several times, suitable for? The instructions advise applying polyurethane foam evenly around the entire perimeter to a depth of at least 40 mm on both sides. After complete drying, the excess is carefully cut off with a painting knife. Dried foam is difficult to remove from the surface of the door without leaving marks. Therefore, it must be used very carefully and washed immediately after contact.
Platband installation. The final stage of installing the door block is installing the platband. Connect the elements at an angle of 45 degrees. They are fastened with thin nails with a special coating such as glazing beads. Thanks to the small head, the nails are almost invisible on the surface after fastening.
Installation of handles and locks. Finally, you need to install the locks and handles. Without experience in such an installation or without the appropriate tools, it is very difficult to install fittings in a high-quality manner. Therefore, we advise you to contact a specialist. An unskilled hand can simply ruin all the work done, since it will be quite difficult to repair mechanical damage on the front surface so that it becomes invisible.

note! All attachment points (if they are visible) are covered with special plastic plugs to match the main color.

Conclusion

Now you understand in block markings, but also do you know how to install them yourself. To do this efficiently, we recommendwatch the video in this article. It shows step by step how install a wooden door block.

If you don’t want to spend a lot of money on buying a new door, but you can’t do without replacing it, try making a door block yourself. It is more convenient to use wood for this purpose. The whole process can be divided into separate stages, but perhaps you should start with choosing a suitable design.

Wood is the most convenient material to process

Components

All door blocks are divided into entrance and interior. Since their purpose is somewhat different, they are installed differently. This applies to sizes, technical characteristics and equipment.

A conventional door block, designed to fill interior openings, has the following components:

• a box consisting of two vertical posts and a crossbar;
• door leaf, that is, the leaf itself;
• platbands designed to frame the outer part of the opening and disguise the fasteners.

Some interior and necessarily entrance structures, according to GOST, require the presence of one more element - a threshold. It provides complete insulation of the room and is joined to the canvas at the bottom.

In addition, if the dimensions of the wall do not correspond to the width of the box, auxiliary strips are used - extensions. They hide what could not be covered by the frame and are, as it were, a continuation of it. They are also used to create slopes.

Main constituent elements

Types of structures

If we consider the classification of door blocks, first of all, products are distinguished by the number of leaves in the opening:

• Single. In other words, single-leaf. They are a familiar door consisting of one leaf.
• Double. They are also called double-leaf or double-leaf. They are distinguished by a larger overall width, while the canvas is divided into two parts, which are often the same in size and fully functional. Installation of such models is appropriate as an entrance to a house or living room.
• One and a half. They differ from double-leaf doors in that one leaf is made smaller than the minimum door width allowed according to GOST. It remains locked, but opens when necessary. The second part of the canvas is a full-fledged movable element.

Main types of structures

Also, door blocks are divided according to the material of manufacture, which are allowed according to GOST:

• Wooden. The most common option. Wooden doors are used for entrance and interior blocks. Cost and characteristics depend on the type of array and design.
• Metal. This mainly refers to entrance doors. High-quality products are made of steel with a thickness of 2 mm or more. Thanks to modern technologies and additional finishing, rough metal is given an attractive appearance.
• Plastic. 100% waterproof material. We are mainly talking about PVC blocks for entrance doors and balconies.
• MDF. Today this option is becoming increasingly popular. MDF is a natural alternative to wood and is cheaper.

In addition, there is a huge variety of doors based on the type of door structure and external design.

GOST requirements

To avoid problems during installation and operation, standards were established regarding the size of door units. All parameters are divided into three categories:

• Height. Depends on the ceilings in the room and, according to GOST, can vary between 2050-2400 mm. This is especially important for openings in load-bearing walls.
• Width. Here GOST standards are divided into requirements for interior and entrance doors. For the former, an opening of 700-800 mm is allowed. Sometimes it can be reduced to 600 mm or increased to 1000-1200 mm. should not be less than 800-900 mm. The maximum opening allowed is 2000 mm for double-floor structures.
• Thickness. This indicator is more important for determining the dimensions of the box. It correlates with the size of the septum. Wooden blocks are usually 90-100mm thick.

Schematic representation of the opening parameters required to determine the size of the door block

In order to ensure proper installation and normal functioning of the GOST structure, it is mandatory to have technological gaps between the wall and the frame, the size of which must be within 10-20 mm. And also between the frame and the canvas, the optimal value here is 3 mm.

Manufacturing and installation of the box

If you decide to manufacture and install a door block yourself, you should start by determining the design parameters. Since it is easier to work with wood, it is recommended to make wooden doors.

To make a box, it is best to select the required thickness of the workpiece. They have corresponding cutouts and recesses for the rebate of the canvas. Such products are sold on almost any construction market. To work, you will need 3 strips 2 meters high at , corresponding to GOST.

First, the perimeter of the passage is measured and the parameters of the box elements are determined, taking into account the clearances for installation. Parts are cut at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees. If there are no grooves or sawn tenons for the connection, it is best to choose the second option.

Two ways to fasten a door frame from finished parts

Assembly is performed in a horizontal position. The sawn parts are connected to each other using nails or bolts. They need to be hammered in on both sides of the contact of the planks. After preliminary assembly, the product is transferred directly into the opening.

This is done using anchors and studs. It is necessary to level the structure in compliance with the diagonal. Then its position is fixed with wedges and spacers, and holes for fastening are drilled using a drill. The bolts need to be tightened at 3-4 points on each side. Then the position of the box is adjusted and the gaps around the perimeter are filled with polyurethane foam. Do not touch the structure for the next 2-4 hours until the mass hardens.

The box is assembled in a horizontal position, after which it is mounted in the opening

Making a canvas

The manufacture of a door block includes the creation of a leaf. In principle, you can buy it, but if you need to adjust the dimensions specifically to the opening or create an original design, you will have to try.

According to GOST, the width of the door should be less than the dimensions of the frame. Therefore, it is recommended to start making the canvas simultaneously with cutting the frame. This way you can adjust their sizes.

Wooden doors can be made in different ways. To create a structure that is light in weight, but as simple as possible in terms of execution and design, it is better to use pine beams and plywood sheets. First the frame is made. It consists of bars connected around the perimeter. To do this, a so-called lock is cut out along the edges. The principle of such fastening is based on the insertion of sawn tenons into prepared grooves. In order to give the structure greater rigidity, it is recommended to additionally embed a transverse strip in the middle of the canvas.

Frame door assembly diagram

Next, the cladding is installed. Fiberboard sheets are fastened with small nails using glue. To give the product a decorative appearance, the base is further primed and covered with any available coating: film, veneer, laminate or simple painting.

The manufacturing process of frame-type fabric

More complex, but beautiful are paneled doors. They are made from individual elements according to the following principle: first, the side posts and crossbars are cut out from a board of suitable thickness. On the inside, using a router, recesses are made for mounting panels. If you have woodworking skills, try cutting out shaped elements.

Panel door assembly diagram

It is permissible to use thinner boards, plywood, MDF as panels, as well as glass for the top decorative insert. Along the edges, the wooden elements can be slightly ground down to the thickness of the recess and a kind of beveled cut can be made.

Assembly is carried out as follows: the panels are driven into the grooves and clamped with frame elements. For better fixation, glazing beads are used. They are attached to nails, having previously sealed the joints with silicone or acrylic.

Panel door manufacturing process

Installation of the finished canvas is carried out using loops. The best option for self-installation is. Usually two are enough. The fittings are mounted flush into the wood. The lower plate with a pin is attached to the box with self-tapping screws, and the upper one is attached to the end of the canvas. The door is then lifted and hung into the opening so that the halves of the fittings are connected.

Be sure to lubricate the hinges so that the door moves smoothly and silently, otherwise the wear of the hardware will accelerate.

After hanging the canvas. Additionally, you can equip the door with a latch or. The principle of fastening depends on the chosen product model, but there are general provisions. The mechanism itself cuts into the canvas through the end and is inserted inside, secured with a plate. The handle pin and lock parts are brought out through the hole. Then clamps, decorative elements and the handles themselves are put on top. The counter part is attached to the box on the opposite side and covered with a metal plate.

Inserting fittings and hanging fabric

Finishing the opening

The final stage of manufacturing and installation of door blocks is the design of the opening in order to hide defects and create an additional decorative appearance. The main element in this case is the platbands. They frame the opening, and therefore must correspond to the interior as a whole.

To make it, it is not necessary to cut out complex shapes with a router. Molded blanks and profiled boards are used to frame the door block. They can be purchased at the construction market.

Final finishing of the opening

For better results, use special nails without heads. Installation is carried out in such a way that the nail enters the timber of the block being coated with minimal damage. It is recommended to connect the elements at an angle of 45 degrees. The cut is made using a miter box to minimize inaccuracies during fitting. Additionally, a pair of nails are driven into the top of the plank, thus fastening the sidewalls to the horizontal crossbar.

Also take care of the proper design of the slopes. They can be coated with paint, sheathed with panels or covered with extensions. For interior partitions, this question often disappears by itself, since the dimensions of the box completely coincide with the thickness of the wall.

If you install the door block according to all the rules, it will become a reliable and stylish design for the opening.

§ 7. Chiseling, cutting with a chisel and drilling wood Manual chiseling of wood

Mechanized chiselling

Manual drilling of wood

Mechanized wood drilling

Control questions

Chapter II. Main types of carpentry joints § 8. Types of carpentry joints

Splice

Corner connections

Cross connections

Building up

§ 9. Types of carpentry joints

Structural parts and joinery elements

Joining wood parts

§ 10. Tenon joints of joinery

§ 11. Making spikes and lugs

§ 12. Connections of elements on dowels, nails, screws

§ 13. Joints with adhesives

Control questions

Chapteriii. General information about parts of buildings and construction work §14. Information about parts of buildings and their structural elements

Building classification

Basic elements of buildings

Civil works

§ 15. Types of carpentry, carpentry and parquet work performed in construction

Control questions

Chapteriv. Designs of basic joinery and construction products § 16. Types, purpose and methods of manufacturing formwork and inventory scaffolding Formwork

Scaffolding for supporting formwork

§ 17. Designs and technology for manufacturing elements of factory-made wooden houses

§ 18. Wooden floors

§ 19. Manufacturing of roof elements

§ 20. Window blocks Classification of window blocks

Manufacturing of window blocks

Assembly of window blocks

Technical specifications for windows

§ 21. Door blocks Classification of door blocks

Manufacturing of door blocks

§ 22. Built-in furniture

§ 23. Carpentry partitions, panels, vestibules

§ 24. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction

Control questions

Chapter v. Woodworking machines § 25. General information

§ 26. Circular saws

§ 27. Longitudinal milling machines

§ 28. Milling machines

§ 29. Tenoning machines

§ 30. Drilling-grooving and chain-slotting machines

§31. Grinding machines

§ 32. Combined machines

Control questions

Manufacturing of window blocks with paired sashes

§ 34. Manufacturing of door blocks

Technical specifications for the manufacture of doors

§ 35. Manufacturing of carpentry partitions and vestibules

§ 36. Manufacturing of built-in furniture

§ 37. Manufacturing of skirting boards, platbands, floor boards, handrails and cladding

Control questions

Chaptervii. Carpentry and installation work in construction § 38. General information about installation and installation equipment

Winches

§ 39. Assembly of window and door units in construction

Assembly of window blocks

Assembly of door blocks

§ 40. Installation of window and door units

§ 41. Installation of carpentry partitions

§ 42. Installation of panels, vestibules, installation. Profile parts (platbands, skirting boards, handrails]

§ 43. Installation of built-in wardrobes

Control questions

Chapterviii. Glass work § 44. Purpose and types of glass work

§ 45. Putties and materials for fastening glass in bindings

§ 46. Tools for glass work and glass cutting

§ 47. Insertion of glass and double-glazed windows

Control questions

Chapterix. Surface finishing of joinery and construction products § 48. Types of wood finishing

§ 49. Preparation of surfaces of parts and products for finishing

Finishing preparation

§ 51. Mechanization of finishing carpentry and built-in furniture

Control questions

Chapterx. Flooring with linoleum and synthetic tiles § 52. Materials for flooring Linoleum, tiles.

§ 53. Bases for laying linoleum and tiles

§ 54. Laying linoleum

§ 55. Construction of floors made of synthetic tiles

Control questions

Chapterxi. Carpentry work on construction § 56. Installation of prefabricated wooden houses of factory production

Frame houses (Fig. 154)

Wooden panel houses

§ 57. Construction of partitions

§58. Floor installation

§ 59. Construction of roofs

§ 60. Installation of plank floors

§ 61. Construction of scaffolding and scaffolding

§ 62. Construction of formwork

Chapter I. Basic wood processing operations 9

§ 64. Protection of wood from fire

§ 65. The use of advanced materials and structures in carpentry work

Control questions

Chapterxii. Parquet work § 66. General information about parquet floors

§ 67. Substrates for parquet floors

§ 68. Installation of floors from parquet boards

§ 69. Installation of block parquet floors Preparation of screeds for laying block parquet on mastics

Laying piece parquet in a herringbone pattern, without friezes and with friezes

§ 70. Laying block parquet on a wooden base

§ 71. Laying block parquet with squares of planks of different sizes

§72. Floors made of mosaic (composited) parquet

§ 73. Panel parquet floors

§ 74. Preparatory work for finishing parquet floors

§ 75. Repair of parquet coverings

Control questions

Chapterxiii. Mechanization and automation of production of joinery and construction parts and products § 76. Automatic and semi-automatic lines for processing parts and products

§ 77. Equipment for the production of standard wooden houses

§ 78. Equipment for finishing carpentry and construction products

Control questions

Chapter XIV Standardization and product quality control § 79. Fundamentals of the state standardization system

§ 80. Standardization of methods and means of measurement and control

§81. Standardization and product quality

Control questions

Chapterxv. Repair of joinery and construction products and structures § 82. Repair of joinery Repair of window units

Door repair

§ 83. Repair of carpentry structures Roof repair

Floor repair

Repair of walls of log (log) and cobblestone houses

Repair of frame and panel houses

Control questions

Chapterxvi. Occupational safety in woodworking enterprises and construction § 85. General safety rules, fencing equipment

Construction safety

Safety precautions and organization of workplaces during the installation of wooden structures

Safety precautions during installation (assembly) of houses

Operating the Tools

§ 85. Electrical safety

Forest exploitation

§ 86. Fire safety

Control questions

List of recommended literature

§ 21. Door blocks Classification of door blocks

The door block consists of a door frame and a door leaf hung on a vertical block of the frame on hinges.

According to their purpose, doors are divided into internal ones, including entrance doors from staircases to apartments and other premises, for sanitary facilities; external (entrance to buildings); vestibule and special soundproofing; fire protection; smoke-proof, etc. Internal doors can be interior doors, kitchen doors, for bathrooms, utility doors (for pantries, built-in wardrobes), for exiting to a balcony (balcony doors).

Doors according to their design are divided into frame (paneled); panel panels with solid or fine-hollow filling; with and without threshold; with and without transom. Based on the number of panels, there are single- and double-leaf doors, including those with panels of different widths.

Based on the direction and methods of opening, doors can be hinged, swinging and sliding, and based on the presence of glazing - glazed or solid.

Based on moisture resistance, doors are divided into doors of increased moisture resistance, intended for rooms with a constant relative air humidity of more than 60% (vestibule doors and doors installed in the external walls of buildings), and doors of normal moisture resistance - for rooms with a relative air humidity of up to 60%.

Depending on the finish, doors come with an opaque finishing coating (enamels, paints, lining with decorative sheet or film materials) and with a transparent finishing coating (transparent varnishes). In some rooms, for lighting with the so-called “second light”, a transom with a width equal to the width of the block is installed above the door.

In double-leaf door blocks, the gap formed between the leaves in the vestibule is closed on both sides with strips. In doors with swinging leaves that open in different directions, the narthex is not covered with a strip.

External door blocks are equipped with thresholds that improve thermal and sound insulation. Door blocks of internal doors are made with a threshold (entrance to apartments) and without a threshold (interior).

Depending on the hinge, doors are distinguished between right and left (Fig. 81). When installing a door block in an opening, the gap formed between the wall and the frame is caulked and covered with a casing.

For the purpose of sound and heat insulation, sealing gaskets made of polyurethane foam are installed in the blocks of entrance doors to the apartment.

Frame doors (Fig. 82) consist of vertical, horizontal and middle bars (strapping) with a thickness of 44.52 and a width of 122 mm. The gaps between the strapping bars and mullions are filled with shields - panels, glass. Panels can be made of planks (mainly in external doors), plywood, fiberboard or particleboard.

The plank panels are connected into a groove and overlap; in the latter case, the panel on the opposite side of the overlap is covered with a figured layout, which is attached to the bars with pins recessed into the wood or with hidden screws. It is not allowed to attach layouts to plank panels. Frame doors are mainly used as entrance doors from the street to premises.

Panel door is a wooden frame assembled from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 32...34x40...60 mm, which are connected in the corners with metal clips or on spikes (dowels), filled with a center of various designs and lined on both sides with solid fiberboard or plywood, planed veneer, laminated paper decorative plastic, decorative polyvinyl chloride film, decorative paper.

The panel door is lightweight, has good soundproofing qualities, strength, dimensional stability, hygiene, and is easy to use. The manufacture of a panel door requires a small amount of materials, mostly of low grades. For residential and public buildings, panel doors are manufactured with or without lining. The trim is attached around the perimeter to the door in a groove and tongue on three sides.

Internal wooden doors for residential and public buildings, depending on the design, are divided into the following types (GOST 6629-88): G - with blank leaves; O - with glazed panels; K - with glazed swinging panels; U - with solid filling of canvases, reinforced for entrances to apartments.

Doors of types G and O are manufactured with single- and double-leaf leaves with fine-hollow (lattice) filling of the leaves, with and without a threshold, with overlay and without overlay, with facings and without facings, with frames and without frames.

Doors of type K are manufactured with double-leaf leaves, with fine-hollow filling of the leaves, without a threshold, without overlap, with and without facings, with frames.

Doors of type U are manufactured with single-leaf blind leaves, with a threshold, without overlap, without facings, with reinforced frames or without frames. The panels in doors of this type are filled with wooden slats calibrated in thickness or chipboards - chipboard, as well as chipboard strips calibrated in width, laid on the edge. The vertical bars of the frame of this canvas must have a width of at least 90 mm, horizontal bars - at least 45 mm. The bars are connected in the corners with glue into a tenon or with dowels or paper clips.

D Belts used for sanitary cabins may be manufactured with a sheet 30 mm thick and a height of at least 1800 mm, with a box beam width of at least 50 mm.

Doors of types O and K can be made of a frame structure with a beam width of at least 100 mm. A box without a threshold is embroidered from below with a mounting board, which is secured with nails or using tenon joints to the ends of the vertical bars.

In doors of types O and K of public buildings, protective fences are installed on both sides of three wooden strips with a pitch of 150 mm, protecting the glass from damage.

Doors of type U and frameless types G and O are equipped with sealing gaskets made of polyurethane foam (GOST 10174-90). The design of type O doors is shown in Fig. 83. Door thickness 40 mm. The filling of the panels (Fig. 84) of door panels can be solid wood, bars (slats) or chipboard strips, small-hollow wooden bars (slats) or chipboard strips with a pitch of 40...60 mm, small-hollow veneer, plywood, hard or soft fiberboard, paper honeycombs.

In the middle of the door panels, bars are placed to install the lock and handles. The length of the bars should be 400 mm for canvases with a height of 2000 mm.

For the construction of unique buildings (theatres, museums), high-quality doors are made, lined with valuable wood (oak, walnut, mahogany, rosewood) and finished with light varnish to preserve the texture. Doors of residential and public buildings are painted with oil or synthetic paints and enamels, including water-based ones.

The door frame is a frame designed for fastening door leaves. Door frames come with or without a threshold. A box with a threshold is assembled from two vertical and two horizontal bars connected to each other by a tenon joint with glue and dowels.

A box without a threshold consists of two vertical and an upper horizontal bars, connected by a tenon joint with glue and fastened with dowels in the corners. Door leaves are hung in frames with two hinges, and type U doors with three hinges.

External wooden doors for residential and public buildings (GOST 24698-81), depending on the purpose, are entrance and vestibule type H, service doors - C, hatches and manholes - JI. Doors of type H are made of panels or frames (paneled), and panel doors can be with slatted cladding.

D Veri types H and C can be single- and double-sided, glazed and with blank panels, with or without a threshold. Panel doors (leaves) must be filled with calibrated slats in thickness. When covering door leaves on the outside with profiled slats on a layer of glassine or galvanized sheet steel, it is allowed to use solid fiber boards or FK grade plywood for the manufacture of doors. Tambour doors can be made without lining with wooden slats. The slats are attached to the canvas with screws or nails 40 mm long with an anti-corrosion coating in increments of up to 500 mm. In the lower part of the door leaf of type H, they are protected with wooden strips 16...19 mm thick (Fig. 85) or strips of decorative laminated paper 1.2...2.5 mm thick.

The leaves and frames of fire-resistant and insulated type C doors are sheathed with thin-sheet galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.35...0.8 mm. Fire-resistant door leaves are protected on both sides with 5 mm thick asbestos cardboard.

The doors are glazed with window glass 4...5 mm thick (GOST 111-90). When installing glass at a distance of less than 800 mm from the bottom of the panel, install a protective fence (grid).

Wooden doors (GOST 14624-84) are intended for production buildings of industrial and agricultural enterprises. Depending on their purpose, they are divided into internal (B) and external (H). By design, doors are available with a quarter rebate with blind leaves (G), with a quarter rebate with glazed leaves (O), and also with glazed swinging leaves (K). Doors are divided into panel doors with solid or lattice filling and frame doors.

Doors of types G and K are manufactured with right or left hinged leaves, with or without a threshold.

Internal doors of type G have a height of 1800 and 2000 and a width of 800... 1802 mm, type O - a height of 2000 and a width of 1402... 1802 mm, type K - a height of 2000 and a width of 1408... 1808 mm. External doors of types G and O have a height of 2000...2300 and a width of 800...900 mm. The thickness of the doors is 40 mm. External doors are lined with hard fiberboard or plywood and must be sheathed with profiled layouts (GOST 8242-88) over a layer of glassine. The layouts are secured with screws or nails with an anti-corrosion coating in increments of up to 500 mm. The lower part of the outer panels is lined with a plinth made of laminated paper plastic 220 mm wide, at least 2 mm thick, or made of super-hard fibreboards (GOST 4598-86), thin galvanized steel or aluminum. Sections of external doors of the panel structure are shown in Fig. 86.

Classification of door blocks. The door block consists of a door frame and a door leaf hung on a vertical block of the frame on hinges.

According to their purpose, doors are divided into internal, including entrance doors from stairwells to apartments and other premises, for sanitary facilities, external (entrance to buildings), vestibule and special (soundproof, fireproof, smokeproof, etc.). Internal doors can be interior doors, kitchen doors, for bathrooms, utility doors (for pantries, built-in wardrobes), or for exiting to a balcony (balcony doors).

Doors according to their design are divided into frame (paneled); panel panels with solid or fine-hollow filling; with and without threshold; with and without transom. Based on the number of leaves, doors are distinguished between single- and double-leaf doors, including those with leaves of different widths.

Depending on the direction and methods of opening, doors can be hinged, swinging, sliding, and based on the presence of glazing - glazed or solid.

Based on moisture resistance, doors are divided into doors of increased moisture resistance, intended for rooms with a constant relative air humidity of more than 60% (vestibule doors and doors installed in the external walls of buildings), and doors of normal moisture resistance - for rooms with a relative air humidity of up to 60%.

Depending on the finish, doors come with an opaque finishing coating, finished with enamels, paints or lined with decorative sheet or film materials, and with a transparent finishing coating, covered with transparent varnishes.

Door surfaces are divided into front and non-front. Non-facial surfaces include the surface of the frame adjacent to the walls, the upper and lower edges of the panels, folds under the glass, the surfaces of facings, sheathings, flashings, layouts connected to other parts, internal and connected to the cladding surfaces of the frame bars and the filling of panel door panels. The remaining surfaces of parts and door assembly units are front surfaces. In some rooms, for lighting with the so-called “second light”, a transom with a width equal to the width of the block is installed above the door.

In double-leaf door blocks, the gap formed between the leaves in the vestibule is closed on both sides with strips. In doors with swinging leaves that open in different directions, the narthex is not covered with a strip.

External door blocks are equipped with thresholds that improve thermal and sound insulation. Door blocks of internal doors are made with a threshold (entrance to apartments) and without a threshold (interior).

Depending on the hinge, doors are distinguished between right and left (Fig. 85). When installing a door block in an opening, the gap formed between the wall and the frame is caulked and covered with a casing.

For the purpose of sound and heat insulation, sealing linings made of polyurethane foam are installed in the blocks of entrance doors to the apartment.

Frame doors (Fig. 86) consist of vertical, horizontal and middle bars (trimming) with a thickness of 44, 52 and a width of 122 mm. The gaps between the strapping bars and mullions are filled with shields - panels, glass. Panels can be made of planks (mainly in external doors), plywood, fiberboard or particle board.

The plank panels are connected into a groove and overlap; in the latter case, the panel on the opposite side of the overlap is covered with a figured layout, which is attached to the bars with pins recessed into the wood or with hidden screws. It is not allowed to attach layouts to plank panels. Frame doors are mainly used as entrance doors from the street to premises.

The panel door is a wooden frame assembled from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 32...34X40X60 mm, which are connected in the corners with metal clips or on tenons (dowels), filled with a center of various designs and lined on both sides with solid fiber board or plywood, sliced ​​veneer, laminated paper decorative plastic, decorative polyvinyl chloride film, decorative paper.

The panel door is lightweight, has good soundproofing qualities, strength, dimensional stability, hygiene, and is easy to use. The manufacture of a panel door requires a small amount of materials, mostly of low grades. For residential and public buildings, panel doors are manufactured with or without lining. The trim is attached around the perimeter to the door in a groove and tongue on three sides. Sections of parts of door blocks of a panel structure are shown in Fig. 87.

In accordance with GOST 6629-74, door blocks are divided into types: G - with blind leaves, with a quarter rebate; O - with glazed panels, with a quarter porch; K - with glazed swinging panels.

Door blocks of type G with a height of 2071 mm have a width of 670...1170 mm, and with a height of 2371 mm - 970...1872 mm.

Blocks of type O with a height of 2071 mm have a width of 770...1272 mm, and with a height of 2371 mm - 970...1872 mm.

Door blocks of type K with a height of 2071 mm have a width of 1298 mm, and with a height of 2371 mm - 1498, 1898 mm. The thickness of the panel doors is 40 mm.

For glazing of type O doors, transparent, patterned or reinforced glass with a thickness of 4...5 mm is used, for type K doors - only transparent glass, so that when opening the door it is clear that there are no people or objects on the other side.

Depending on the design, panel doors can be solid or hollow. Solid doors are made from bars (slats) (Fig. 88, a). The centers of hollow doors are made in the form of a sparse lattice of bars (Fig. 88, b), a lattice of veneer (Fig. 88, c), honeycombs formed from strips of plywood, solid fiberboard (Fig. 88, d). In addition, the center of the panel door can be filled with strips of soft fiberboard, paper honeycomb, twisted spiral shavings made from hardwood.

Paper honeycomb filler (GOST 23233-78) is made from packaging paper, grade B, or bobbin paper, grade B, impregnated with urea-formaldehyde or other synthetic resins, which give the filler the required strength.

In the middle of the door panels, bars are placed to install the lock and handles. The length of the bars should be 400 mm for canvases with a height of 2000 mm and 700 mm for canvases with a height of 2300 mm.

For the construction of unique buildings (theatres, museums), high-quality doors are made, lined with valuable wood (oak, walnut, mahogany, rosewood) and finished with light varnish to preserve the texture. Doors of residential and public buildings are painted with oil or synthetic paints and enamels, including water-based ones.

The door frame is a frame designed for fastening door leaves. Door frames come with or without a threshold. A box with a threshold is assembled from two vertical and two horizontal bars connected to each other by a tenon joint with glue and dowels.

A box without a threshold consists of two vertical and an upper horizontal bars, connected by a tenon joint with glue and fastened with dowels in the corners. A box without a threshold is embroidered at the bottom with a mounting board, attaching it to the ends of the vertical bars with nails or spikes. Door leaves are hung in frames with two hinges.

External wooden doors for residential and public buildings (GOST 24698-81), depending on the purpose, are entrance and vestibule type N, service doors - type C, hatches and manholes - L. Doors of type N are made panel or frame (paneled), and panel doors can be with slatted sheathing.

Doors of types H and C can be single- and double-leaf, glazed or with solid leaves, with or without a threshold. Panel doors (leaves) must be filled with slats calibrated in thickness. When covering door leaves on the outside with profiled slats over a layer of glassine or galvanized sheet steel, it is allowed to use solid fiber boards or FK grade plywood for the manufacture of doors. Tambour doors can be made without lining with wooden slats. The slats are attached to the canvas with screws or nails 40 mm long with an anti-corrosion coating in increments of up to 500 mm. In the lower part of the door leaf of type H, they are protected with wooden planks (Fig. 89) with a thickness of 16...19 mm or strips of decorative laminated paper with a thickness of 1.2...2.5 mm.

The leaves and frames of fire-resistant and insulated type C doors are sheathed with thin-sheet galvanized steel 0.35...0.8 mm thick. Fire-resistant door leaves are protected on both sides with 5 mm thick asbestos cardboard.

The doors are glazed with window glass 4...5 mm thick (GOST 111-78). When installing glass at a distance of less than 800 mm from the bottom of the panel, install a protective fence (grid).

Wooden doors (GOST 14624-84) are intended for production buildings of industrial and agricultural enterprises. Depending on their purpose, they are divided into internal (B) and external (H). According to the design, doors are available with a quarter rebate with blind leaves (G), with a quarter rebate with glazed leaves (O), with glazed swinging leaves (K). Doors are divided into panel doors with solid or lattice filling and frame doors.

Doors of types G and O are manufactured with right or left door hinges, with or without a threshold.

Internal doors of type G have a height of 1800 and 2000, width of 800...1802 mm, type O - height of 2000, width of 1402...1802 mm, type K - height of 2000, width of 1408...1808 mm. External doors of types G and O have a height of 2000...2300, a width of 800...900 mm. Door thickness 40 mm. External doors are lined with solid fiberboard or plywood and must be sheathed with profiled layouts (GOST 8242-75) over a layer of glassine. The layouts are secured with screws or nails with an anti-corrosion coating with a fastening pitch of up to 500 mm. The lower part of the outer panels is lined with a plinth made of laminated paper plastic 220 mm wide, at least 2 mm thick, or made of super-hard fibreboards (GOST 4598-86), thin galvanized steel or aluminum. Sections of external doors of the panel structure are shown in Fig. 90.

Manufacturing of door blocks. Door leaves of panel and frame construction are manufactured mainly at specialized woodworking enterprises, but at the same time, at some construction sites, in order to quickly supply them with carpentry, door leaves are manufactured on site, using non-standard equipment.

An approximate diagram of the technological process for manufacturing door blocks with frame doors (Fig. 91) stipulates that the cutting of lumber into blanks will be carried out on circular saws, and milling - on jointing and four-sided longitudinal milling machines.

Sockets in vertical bars are selected on a chain mortising machine. To cut tenons, a tenon cutting machine is used. Selection of profiles, selection of darkness and other similar operations are performed on a milling machine.

Preliminary assembly of products with fitting of parts is carried out at the workplace, and final assembly is carried out in an assembly machine. The perimeter of the door is processed on a formatting machine.

In the absence of the above machines, door parts are processed on combined machines with electrified or hand tools.

Let's look at the procedure for processing a vertical block of a frame (paneled) door, which has a clean size of 44X94X2000 mm. The allowance for milling and jointing on both sides for blanks made of coniferous wood should be 5.5 mm, and for facing on both sides along the length of the parts - 40 mm. Thus, the dimensions of the bar in the workpiece are 44 + 6X94 + 6X2000 + 40 or 50X100X2040 mm. Based on these dimensions, take a board 50 mm thick and mark the length and width of the block, after which it is cut out with an electric saw or bow saw.

After sawing, the block is processed on four sides with an electric planer or a planer and a jointer. When planing, it is necessary to ensure that the block is rectangular in shape and has no curvature or distortions. On the planed block, using a square or thicknesser, mark the sockets for the tenons, for which the block is placed with the edge up on the table and, using a square, a line is drawn on the edge with a pencil.

The bars are marked as follows (Fig. 92). Stepping back 20 mm from the end of the block, draw line 1 with a pencil; Having measured 32 mm, draw line 2; at a distance of 140 cm from the second line - line 3. After this, having measured the required distances, lines 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are applied. Then lines 12, 13 are applied at the ends of the bar at a distance of 12 mm from each edge.

The intersections of transverse and longitudinal lines form nests 9 on the edge. Select nests with a chisel, making sure that the chisel does not go beyond the markings. This operation can be performed with an electric chisel, then cleaning the surfaces of the sockets with a chisel. It is necessary to monitor the accuracy of nest sampling. If the nest is larger, the thorn will not fit tightly; if the nest is smaller, the thorn will not fit into it.

Then a groove is selected in the block using a tongue and groove, and a profile is selected using a planer (moulder). After all the bars and panels have been made, the door is pre-assembled.

After preliminary assembly and adjustment, the door is disassembled, the tenons and lugs are lubricated with glue, and then reassembled and crimped in an assembly machine. Additionally, dowels are placed on the glue in the corners.

The bars of the box are also assembled with glue and secured in the corners with dowels. The correct assembly of the boxes is checked from corner to corner with a ruler and square.

The assembled door panels must have an allowance around the perimeter for processing with a jointer or electric planer of 2...3 mm per side.

It is recommended to embed door locks at a height of 1000 mm from the bottom of the door leaf manually or with a power tool. The nests are marked using a square or P.E. Kuskov’s template (Fig. 93), made of wood and plywood. The upper plank of the template is made from a milled board 10...12 mm thick, and the side planks are made from plywood. The side planks are nailed to the top.

When marking the socket for the lock, template 2 is placed on the edge of the door so that its horizontal axis 1 is at a distance of 1000 mm from the bottom of the door, after which the socket and the position of the keyhole 3 are marked with a pencil. Then the socket is selected with a chisel and the keyhole is drilled. The socket for the lock can be selected on a horizontal drilling machine or with an electric drill and an electric shaper in several steps.

In the box you need to select a place for the locking plate with a chisel. It is marked by applying the bar to the block of the box and tracing the contour with a pencil.

Locks are cut into the vertical bars of frame doors, but above or below the middle horizontal bar. It is not allowed to embed locks against the middle bars; since this compromises the strength of the tenon joint.

Then they adjust the door leaf to the frame, cleaning individual places if necessary.

The assembled box is placed on a special table or workbench, and the door is carefully adjusted to the quarters of the box so that it lies flush with the edge of the box. After fitting, the door should have a two-millimeter gap between the trim and a quarter of the frame, which is necessary for normal operation of the door.

In double-leaf doors, before fitting into the frame, rebates are first selected along the door frame using a milling machine or with a hand tool, then the doors are folded at the edges (rebates) and driven in in the usual way. The gap at the alignment points should be 2 mm. After adjustment, they put the strips on glue and screws and hang the doors on the hinges. Sockets for hinges are selected at the workplace using the Pavlikhin template.

Each canvas is hung on two or three loops, and the bouts of the upper and lower loops must be on the same vertical axis. The loops are positioned as shown in Fig. 94.

Entrance doors to buildings are hung on hinges PN1-150, PN2-150, PNZ-130, PNZ-150 (GOST 5088-78), internal doors - on hinges PN4, having a size of 98 mm.

After fitting and hanging the door, the entire block is checked, and the sag is cleaned in the necessary places. The door should not spring when opening and closing; It should rotate freely on its hinges. Warping, distortions of more than 2 mm in any direction, untreated areas and roughness are not allowed in the door block. The finished block is embroidered with packaging strips and sent for painting and glazing.