Combat knife throwing technique of throwing from below. Training: Throwing a combat knife in two ways

Many martial arts enthusiasts are interested in knife throwing. A traditional and well-known technique is reverse throwing, in which for a successful throw it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance and force of the throw. If the fighter is not a professional, then an accurate assessment of throwing requires a certain amount of time, which may simply not be available at a critical moment. Of course, there are some throwing knives, the design of which allows them to be thrown from any position with the blade forward, and they reach the target in any scenario. At the same time, these knives a priori attract the attention of the police and other law enforcement officers, since they are classified as bladed weapons.

A number of masters believe that it is more effective non-revolving throwing knives. This technique does not require a very long training time, which is required by classic throwing. Its essence is that the thrower compensates for the rotation of the knife with his hand. Thanks to this, the knife does not turn over in the air and accurately hits the target with the blade. The requirements for a blade acceptable for such throwing are quite simple - appropriate design and the absence of hooks on the handle. The length of the knife is 20 cm, the thickness is no higher than 4 mm, and overall it is relatively light. In the classical technique, as is known, blades that are as heavy as possible are used, with a blade thickness of up to 8 mm and a length of up to 30 cm. Due to its heavy weight, such a knife will plunge into the target without any problems; the shape does not really matter.

One can argue for a long time about which technique is more acceptable and reliable - “classic” or non-revolving. The technique, in which the knife is clamped perpendicular to the direction of the blade and thrown, is not suitable for everyone, although it requires a short training period. Even recognized masters have mistakes in competitions, when the tip does not hit the target the first time and they have to step back. At the same time, masters of “no spin” can throw a knife from any distance with zero rotation speed, and the blade is guaranteed to stick into the target.

The worse the beginner’s technique, the higher the rotation frequency. From a short distance - 2-3m - it is unnoticeable; at long distances, “scrolling” leads to the absence of “sticking”. The main thing is to train to perfection at a certain distance, gradually increasing the distance. Throwing using this technique requires the need to control the position of the hand; the knife flies out of the palm under the influence of centrifugal force. The elbow acts as a conventional point around which the forearm and palm with the blade are rotated. When throwing, the elbow should be locked in place - both its height and position in front of the chest are controlled.

Non-revolving throwing of knives causes one mistake for many beginners - it seems to them that in this position the knife will not only not stick, but will not even reach. Increasing the force of the throw leads to displacement of the elbow. The absence of this must be carefully monitored. To make it easier to master the technique, you can imagine a wall at your right shoulder. At the final point of throwing the blade, imagine that you are pressing your right shoulder against this wall and throwing along it. Additional centrifugal force must be imparted to the blade by rotating the hand at the final point of the throw. At the moment of throwing, it is advised to move the hand back and then forward.

As you know, the methods of throwing knives largely depend on the stance in which the person is located. It affects not only the range and accuracy of the throw, but also the duration of the training period.

Plays a significant role right choice knives. They must have good balance and quality execution.

When preparing the article, I used materials from the book “Instructions for Throwing Knives” by T.R. Kasyanov, so I will adhere to the terms used in hand-to-hand combat and the Kadochnikov self-defense system.

When learning to throw knives at close ranges, you must use a high stance. Your feet should be shoulder-width apart, and at the moment of the throw, take a step with your left or right foot.

Throwing with close range

Let's look at the method of throwing at close range when you are facing the target with your left side. Take the knife in your right hand and raise it at head level, bending your elbow at an angle of 90º. Throw it at the target with a sharp and quick movement of your hand:

The same actions can be performed by adopting the Hidari-zenkutsu-dachi stance. This left-handed front post is convenient when throwing a knife right hand. You can adopt the migi-zenkutsu-dachi stance (right-sided forward stance), which is also used when throwing with your right hand:

After carefully practicing throws from previous positions, proceed to attacking targets from the kiba-dachi stance or, as it is called, “rider pose.” Throw the knife first from a static position, and then move on to dynamics, taking a step while simultaneously throwing:

This movement is reminiscent of the tetsui uchi “hammer hand” strike from the outside inwards. You can perform a horizontal throw with a swinging movement of your right hand from a kiba-dachi stance. The knife throwing skill will help you in many cases, especially if the enemy is expecting basic fencing or certain techniques. Unexpected actions will contribute to your success.

Distance 3-4 meters

This classic distance allows for maximum performance and promotes successful learning. Throwing is carried out from the migi-zenkutsu-dachi or hidari position. You can also take a step before throwing from the neko-ashi-dachi cat stance:

The distance allows you to effectively throw a knife from the kiba-dachi rider's stance, while simulating a tetsui-uchi strike. The knife is thrown with the right hand, swinging from the shoulder or left ear.

It should be remembered that when throwing thumb, which lies on the knife blade, should only lightly touch the handle. When held by the blade, it should not cross the line of the bent index finger, which supports the handle of the knife from below. Note that you must bend the phalanx of the thumb that rests on the knife at an angle of 45º.

When lateral throwing from the rider's position (kiba-dachi) at medium and long distances, horizontal dispersion of accuracy is often observed. This occurs due to the swinging movement of the arm, which at the beginning of training is difficult to keep in a certain position.

To practice the skill, a special stand is used, on which a rectangle 1 m long and 0.3-0.4 m wide is painted with black paint. A black vertical stripe is clearly visible in its middle, clearly visible even with peripheral vision. When practicing a throw, you should try to stop your hand in the area up to this stripe and only after you have developed the skill, throw along the entire length of the stand.

An effective method for use in extreme situations is to throw a knife from behind the head from a distance of 3-4 meters. This is convenient when you are required to raise your hands up. In this case, the knife is hidden behind the collar in a vertical state, for which it is necessary to provide a secret pocket. This arrangement will not attract attention if you are wearing a loose, light jacket or winter clothes. It is convenient to throw from a frontal position with your legs apart or from the position of a rider (kiba-dachi).

This stance allows you to throw knives with both hands, but it should be taken into account that throwing with your left hand will be less effective.

Distance 5 meters

Starting from a distance of 5 m to the target, throwing is carried out while holding the knife by both the blade and the handle. At the same time, please note that when throwing “by the blade” the knife makes only half a turn to the target, and when throwing “by the handle” it makes a full turn.

It is at this distance that a special feeling of throwing is developed. After all, by throwing a knife by the handle, you make it fly 4/5 of the distance with the tip forward, and only 1/5 of the rest of the way does it make a full turn and enter the target with the tip. This cannot be explained in words – it just takes a lot of practice.

Distance 6, 7, 8 meters

This distance allows you to throw a knife not only from a high stance with a smooth transition to the front right or left-sided stance, but also from a cat stance, which makes it possible to abruptly transition to the above mentioned stances. At the same time, you can send the knife to the target with a powerful movement of your hand. In this case, the leg stepping into the position must take a static position before the hand releases the knife.

Longer throwing distances do not seem practical.

Useful tips

If throwing knives is not a short-term hobby for you, try to keep yourself in shape and not allow your hand to lose throwing skill. To do this, it is enough to carry a small bag of small stones in your pocket, which you need to throw in different directions when possible. This is exactly what the Chinese masters did.

If you find yourself in an extreme situation, when your life often depends on your skill, remember the main thing. Depending on the weather, the knife flies differently, so you need to train in any weather. Exercises in rain or snow can be especially effective. The behavior of a wet knife is often unpredictable, so try to thoroughly wipe the blade before throwing.

On initial stages training, it is enough to use from 5 to 10 knives, the number of which can be increased with increasing qualifications. Ideally, the master has a special belt with a set of knives, as shown in the figure:

Their location on the belt is explained by the convenience of snatching, as well as the requirement of free movement, that is, so that they do not interfere when walking, running and falling.

This belt is made individually and carefully adjusted to the owner. The knives used are small - no more than 15 cm in length, other parameters are at the discretion of the master. The design of the belt should allow it to be covered with a cape or jacket from prying eyes, while the master practices the skill of instantly snatching and putting away a knife, as samurai do with a katana.

A true master develops these skills throughout his life, devoting 0.5 to 4 hours to it every day. The main thing here is not long training, but frequent training.

Wearing a belt is not always convenient, so it is necessary to provide for wearing knives on each arm, leg and behind the collar of clothing on the back. To do this, it is advisable to use knives that bend well, and ideally, those that wrap around it and protect it from damage in hand-to-hand combat. They should have good balance and a rubber grip.

During use, throwing knives will become dull and nicks may appear on them, which will have to be removed. Buy special tools for this: files, grinding stones, etc.

♦ At the same time, remember - no matter how many times you have to run them along the blade, achieving the original quality, the same number of times you have to process its handle so as not to throw off its balance.

For throwing Any will do knife, even a folding one. True, after a dozen throws it will become loose, and its flight will not be able to be controlled,” says Vladimir Sergeevich Kovrov, instructor sports throwing knives from the "Solid Hand" club.

If you ever plan to get serious about throwing cutting steel, look at a hunting store for one of the models of throwing knives (for example, “Sturgeon-2”). In the meantime, for fun, you can use any object that comes to hand with a handle and blade.

The throwing rules apply equally not only to special throwing knives, but also to ordinary cupronickel silver cutlery and even long nails.

After an unsuccessful throw, the knife bounces off the target at the same speed as it flies towards it, but whether you have time to rebound is another question. Therefore, dull the blade (a lot) and the tip itself (a little). The knife will still get into a tree, but it’s unlikely to get into you.

Drive all spectators away from the target. When throwing, the penetrating force of the blade is twice as great as when striking. You may not hit a person on purpose, but by accident you may unexpectedly succeed.

Do it once!

Find the center of gravity of the knife by balancing it on your index finger. It’s good if at first it is a “balanced” knife - one whose center of gravity is exactly in the geometric center.

Do two!

Grasp the exact point you find with your index finger and thumb. Use the tips of the rest to press the blade to your palm, placing it on the life line towards you.

“Don’t squeeze the knife as hard as you can. Hold it as if you are trying not to let a sparrow out of your palm,” Vladimir Kovrov appeals to your imaginative thinking. The blade should fit freely between your fingers.

There is no need to hoot and spit on your palms. Moisture will increase friction, and the sliding of the knife will slow down. If your palm is sweaty, just sprinkle it with talcum powder or starch.

Stand at a distance of no less than three and no more than four meters from the target. A knife thrown from this point, having made a half turn, will certainly fly up to the target with the tip forward (thanks to the section of physics “Dynamics of Rotating Bodies”).

When experimenting in the future with the throwing range, remember: if it is less than 3 m, hold the knife a little closer to the edge, if it is more than 4 m, move the grip closer to the handle.

The knife is thrown at a distance of more than 5 m, holding the handle. In this case, in the air it manages to make one or one and a half turns. However, you need to start training from a distance of approximately 3.5 m.

Do three!

Expose left leg forward, move your right arm up and back to swing, without bending your wrist. By turning your body to the left and using the same movement that you throw a snowball, send the knife to the target.

The moment your arm is fully straightened, the knife will fly out of your grip. “Do not unclench your fingers under any circumstances,” Vladimir Sergeevich instructs. - Together with the palm, they play the same role as the bore of a pistol.

If you instinctively open your grip at the last moment, the knife will wobble in the air and change its trajectory.”

Make it four!

Pay attention to the picture below. It is in this way, and no other way, that your wrist should be fixed at the moment the knife leaves your hand. You will definitely want to lower your hand down, since your mind will be sure that from this position the blade, which is almost perpendicular to the ground, will definitely fly up somewhere. But don't trust your feelings. Your inner voice is wrong again, just like that time when it advised you to bet all your money on zero.

The muddy wave of perestroika, and even the post-perestroika period, had a very negative impact on the political and social life of Russia, especially affecting the condition and position of the army. The ruling elite has always been afraid of a trained army, and this continues today. Since the mid-forties, the army has been trained in practically nothing except three exercises: “stepping, broom and shovel.” Like a bad owner - “how to go hunting, so feed the dogs” - our army was trained, as a rule, only in extreme conditions, which led to colossal losses that might not have happened.

Knives Shape, sharpening*, dimensions, steel, balancing, weight

*sharpen - a system for sharpening knives and other bladed weapons.

Having dug through and studied a lot of literature on edged weapons, I have not found any material in any source that covers the section “throwing knives” correctly or competently, or rather, professionally. A few amateurish authors have attempted to explore this topic. The books by Victor Popenko and Anatoly Taras showed a lot of knives, the shapes of which came to us from ancient times and, naturally, from different peoples. All of these knives are suitable for throwing, I very much doubt it, but I am far from thinking of offending the mentioned authors, obviously this happened due to some objective reasons. It is unlikely that the above authors have seen how this is done, and I think that they have not tried to do it themselves, although with a certain desire and skill, as I myself have seen in the past, any object in the hand of a professional can become a formidable weapon (knives, plates, needles , axes, ordinary plates and even hats).

But still, I have a desire to move on to what I have seen, experienced myself, what I can do and what I can teach.

Knife shape

Over the long 30 years, standing at the leadership of the School of Martial Arts SEN "E (the path of life, the road of life, the work of my whole life), I had to try and practice with many types of weapons, including throwing ones. Somehow it happened naturally, but rather under the influence of A. A. Kharlampiev, that over the years I have developed my own method of using a knife, its canons. The form should be extremely utilitarian and functional. That is, only this way and no other way. Based on the experience of the Teacher, and further on my Personally, I came to the conclusion that the throwing object, namely the knife, should resemble the silhouette of a swimming shark (Fig. 1).Such a knife is not only convenient to throw, but it is also convenient for working in close combat and fencing at long range.

Rice. 1

The only way the “swimming shark” knife differs from knives of subsequent forms is that the lower cutting edge is more hollowly sharpened relative to the upper, resembling in profile the transition from the upper jaw of a shark to the lower.

Oddly enough, it turned out to be difficult to order knives of this shape even in the defense industry, since the turners and milling operators, having lost their qualifications in the production of edged weapons during the years of perestroika, could not understand what I wanted from them. Then I further simplified the shape of the knife, and the working part itself, the one that enters the target, and in battle into the enemy’s body, began to resemble a bullet. In general, the knife in profile resembled a large bullet, as it was streamlined, convenient and had nothing superfluous.

Rice. 2. Knife dimensions.

Two sizes of the knife were also developed, so to speak, two of its lengths: one - 25 cm = 250 mm, the other - 30 cm = 300 mm (Fig. 2). But at our school we are somehow more accustomed to the first size. So, since we have already decided what shape the throwing knife should be, let’s name its other parameters. Length = 250 mm, handle = 100 mm, blade = 150 mm, i.e. the blade is one and a half lengths of the handle, width = 25-28 mm. During manufacturing, the thickness of the workpiece should be from 2.2 mm to 2.5 mm. The thickness of the handle lining is 2 mm. You can make 3 rivets holding the handle on each side, but usually 2 rivets are made. Rivet width - 5 mm.

Steel The workpiece is steel 4x13 55 units. hardness on the Rockwell scale. If you take 60 units. rigidity, then during training the knife, falling flat into the stand, will break, because the steel will practically be surgical, and at 50 units. the rigidity of the knife, when it hits the stand, it will bend strongly. The middle of the scale is taken. If you don’t have the above steel, you can take spring steel from a GAZ-21 car and valve steel from a car engine.

Sharpen

The knife blank itself must be milled or sharpened in such a way that the cutting part of the knife is on only one side. The sharpening of the cutting edge itself can be of four types, as shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3. Knife in section

Sharpening of the workpiece is carried out in the middle of the length of the knife and runs from the tip of the knife to the beginning of the handle (Fig. 3c). You need to sharpen, naturally, 150 mm in length, completely without affecting the part that will be the handle. Otherwise, it will greatly affect the balancing of the knife.

So, sharpenings can be double-sided, with a bevel in one direction and a hemisphere. What's better? Experience shows that if you need a high-precision hit on the target, then a knife with a double-sided sharpening is used. After making the workpiece, we move on to the handle.

The handle should consist of two separate duralumin linings. Other materials - vinyl plastic, wood, rubber quickly become unusable from accidental hits with a knife and from impacts on the stand and the floor. The part of the knife intended for the handle is not milled. Two 5 mm holes are drilled into it for two rivets made of high-speed steel, which is well processed and holds well. Both holes for the rivets are drilled 20 mm from the end of the handle from the knife blade. Moreover, both handle linings at the nearest rivet are ground obliquely (Fig. 4) to the blade so that the thrower’s hand does not encounter any angles or plane differences when releasing the knife in a throw.

Rice. 4

Knife weight and balancing

The weight of the knife should be 200 g. Its balancing is checked in this way: in the place where the handle starts from the blade, place forefinger, say, of the right hand, and the index finger of the left hand slightly holds the knife in a horizontal position at the sting. When you release the finger of your left hand, the handle of the knife, as if pausing, should pull the knife smoothly and unconditionally towards the floor (Fig. 5). If the handle of the knife is significantly heavier than the blade, the knife will immediately fall to the floor towards the handle. Therefore, such a handle simply needs to be lightened.

Rice. 5

A few words about our army knives A straight dagger bayonet from an AKM assault rifle with a hollow for blood flow for throwing would be convenient if it did not have a ring for attaching to the barrel and an excessively bent and weighted end of the handle. When I was filming all these belongings, I used this bayonet perfectly, as was the case, for example, on the set of the film “Special Attention Zone.” The bayonet, which resembles the fin from an AK assault rifle, is even more difficult to use, because the sting is offset to the side, and the handle is very heavy, with many bends and angles. A one-sided saw also gets in the way, which can injure your hand. You have to be a well-trained fighter to have a certain result when throwing such a bayonet. But in general it can be used for the army. The distance should be 4.5-5.5 m, depending on the height of the fighter and the length of his arm. There is also an army dagger bayonet with a diamond-shaped sharpening on both sides of the blade, but with the same drawback - it also has an uncomfortable handle. In a word, you can’t throw our domestic bayonets by the handle. Apparently, scientists from the Department of Defense were experimenting with these knives in their offices. The color of a throwing knife should be black so that it is practically invisible in the hand, and even more so in flight.

Platforms and stands for throwing knives (special devices)

Knife throwing training is carried out both in open areas and indoors. To do this you need to clear various garbage a small area in the forest or garden, equal to approximately 10x4 m, compact the area, lightly sprinkle with sand and place stands so that people cannot appear near them or behind them. The site must be marked out at special distances (I will talk about them in the next chapter). At one end of the site there will be a stand, at the other - a table or bench for throwing knives (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Open area

During the training process, there is a danger of knives flying and scattering around the site and beyond the site, so the stand simply needs to be fenced off with a fine mesh or wooden shields. You need to pour more sand or put rubber tracks on the ground near the stand. This will save the knives from possible damage when hitting the ground, and the student will not have to run behind the stand to look for knives that have flown there. In the room for the same exercises, the platform should be exactly the same, but more attention should be paid to sound insulation, for which the stand should be surrounded with felt sheets or rubber tracks. If there are windows in the room where throwing is carried out, then they should be blocked with a fine mesh (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Room (top view)

The stands should be well lit: there should be light bulbs above them or on the sides, covered with covers, since when preparing the thrower there will be exercises in twilight and in complete darkness for a flash of light. All the talk that the platform for throwing knives should be larger has no real meaning, because it is simply impossible to effectively throw knives further than 12 m, and stories that someone saw or threw knives from distances of 15, 20 and 30 m is a purebred lie. Throwing stands can be of different types. If you are in a region where it is difficult to find a tree, then an earthen rampart is poured on one side of the open air area, compacted with shovels, different figures are marked, after which the stand is ready for training (this is what, for example, the Turkish Janissaries (guard) did for fast learning a large number of warriors).

If it is possible to choose a tree for exercise, then it is better if it is poplar, since its wood is softer, absorbs sound well from the impact of a knife and absorbs the knife well when stuck. The poplar is sawn into thirty-centimeter round pieces, the bark is removed, after which the sides are chopped off with an ax so that a square is obtained, then any serial number is designated, and the finished poplar squares are placed in the stand frame (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8

The frame cover or top bar is lowered so that the poplar squares do not move, and fastened or tied at the side to keep everything firmly in place (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9

The squares can have numbers on the front and various shapes on the back. When the front surface is destroyed as a result of exercise, the side is changed or the square is completely thrown away. It is advisable to keep poplar wood damp at all times. To do this, when leaving training, you need to spray the stand with water and, if possible, cover the stand with a damp cloth. Wet wood is more resistant to knife sticking. When learning to throw, an important circumstance is the fact that the knives are thrown at the end of the block, and not at the side into the wood. Much later, when experience comes, it will be possible to throw knives at a standing tree, but, naturally, into a dry one, not a blooming one, into chipboard or plywood. True, such an exercise greatly damages knives. Experienced throwers make targets swinging on chains, although, I repeat, hitting them is only possible with very long and constant practice.

Knife throwing distances

Speaking of distance, I would immediately like to focus on the very close distance to the target, and in a combat situation, to the enemy. During the training, four such distances were identified. These are 1.25 m, 1.50 m, 1.75 m and 2 m. I am not yet talking about throwing methods and the very important section - how to hold a knife (this will be done in the next chapter). While studying, the student must increase his skills at these distances, and only after that quietly move away, moving away from the target. These are real distances both for training and also in a combat situation, making it possible to quickly deal with the enemy. Then there is a very realistic distance of 2.5 and 3 m. Then 4-4.5 m. The most effective for me. Accordingly, 5 m, 6 m, 7 and 8 m. When the thrower moves to such a distance, he feels that idle talk even about 12 m, and even more so 15, 20, 30 m, is pure fiction and bluff. In terms of methodology, having mastered several of the listed distances, at the end of the training you should try to approach and move away from the target. This practice gives a positive result in battle, when the distance will be difficult to determine by eye due to various weather or other circumstances. In general, in order to get closer to the enemy and implement your actions, a distance of 6-8 m is very good. In addition, you need to be a very good thrower, otherwise you will lose.

Ways to hold a knife in your handStances and throwing methods

Remembering that in the previous chapter we outlined four close distances, I would like to say right away that you need to hit the target and the enemy from these distances while holding the knife by the handle. The knife is held in the hand in this way: the blade is directed towards the stand or the enemy, the handle is in the palm, four fingers hold the handle from below, acting as a guide for the knife to fly out of the hand. The thumb, with the phalanx necessarily bent at an angle of 45°, lying on the knife, should never extend beyond the line of the bent index finger and lie flat on the knife (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10

None of the authors of works on knife throwing said a word about this. What does this method of holding a knife do? Properly placed on the handle, and also on the blade (we will look at this a little later), the thumb makes it possible to correctly aim the knife. The position of the thumb on the knife determines whether the knife begins to tumble when thrown or not. The thumb plays in the same way important role whether the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I have never seen this moment touched upon or illuminated by anyone. The thumb seems to twist the knife when it is released from the hand, pointing it to a point, horizontally or vertically. But, really, maybe these are the secrets of the masters. The knife is held by the blade in the same way, taking into account the fact that one side of it is sharp and should protrude outward from the palm a few millimeters. Throwing a knife by the handle from distances up to 2 m is done with one wave of the hand. The knife, without turning over anywhere, enters the target. But, starting from 2 m, it is more convenient to throw the knife by the blade, and here, when releasing the knife from the hand, you should slightly cut the blade from bottom to top with a bent index finger. Then the knife, having made just half a turn, will stick its sting into the target.

We must remember the rule that when throwing a knife by the blade from 2 m or 12 m, the knife should make only half a turn (Fig. 11). Throwing the knife by the handle from 5 m onwards, the knife must make a full revolution (Fig. 12).

When a student, holding a knife by the blade, begins to try a distance of 5.5-6 m, then the knife should literally go a few millimeters into the palm, but in these cases, no more than half of the handle should still be grasped by the palm.

The knife should not be held tightly or tightly, but tightly held with your fingers using the indicated grip. A very important circumstance is the position of the hand when throwing the knife, in its very final release phase (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13

In Fig. Figure 14 shows a variant of the correct and incorrect position of the hand.

Rice. 14

In the correct position, the hand seems to strike, and the knife looks up diagonally, somewhere at an angle of 45°; in the wrong position, the hand is tilted down, and usually the knife begins to somersault and hits the ground. When throwing a knife, the hand must be completely relaxed. And only at the end, when releasing the knife, she, as if stopping, imitates a blow. The student's eyes look at the point where he wants to go, watching his hand with lower or lateral peripheral vision, directing and stopping his hand where his eyes are looking.

A classic example of all of these actions is distance 3 m , when a student, holding a knife by the blade, lightly touches the handle with his thumb and does not get out with his thumb beyond the area of ​​the bent index finger, sends the knife to the target (Fig. 15).

Rice. 15

This throwing style is suitable for distances from 2.5 to 4 m. At a distance from 1.75 to 2.5 m, the palm is placed on the knife to the middle of the blade.

Now that much has already been explained, I would like to talk about the need for sharpening knife blades. Of course, a master is always a master; he can throw a knife even without sharpening, that is, smooth. But if we talk about the high art of throwing, then the masters use a form of knife that is close to the heart and feeling. For a student, when he is required to learn this or that exercise, it is important to have some kind of the required part, which will increase his understanding of what is happening and qualifications. So, when it comes to the knife hitting the target horizontally or vertically, this is where it must be said that sharpening hinders or helps the result.

As already mentioned or shown above, there are different sharpenings. I returned to this topic once again to show how the thumb of the palm lies on the knife before throwing (Fig. 16).

Rice. 16 (sectional)

Much of what is shown above is not even obvious, it is on the verge of intuition. But by practicing, the student comes to the point that he begins to feel the distance, the knife and the sharpening groove with his finger, i.e. a feeling of understanding the sensation of the knife is born: when to press lightly when release so that the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I repeat once again, saying that the sharpening plays a very important role in the arrival of the knife at the target, and the thumb, when launching the knife from the hand, plays exactly this role.

Stances and throwing methods

These two concepts are closely related because there can be no throwing methods without stances. I will also have to refer to some stances and throwing techniques that resemble strikes in the language of karate and hand-to-hand combat terms.

Speaking about throwing methods, we will again have to return to the two previous chapters on distances and the manner of holding a knife in the hand, since all these concepts will be linked together in this chapter. Let's remember those first four distances close to the target. So, throwing knives at them is done from high racks, when the student stands on his feet, shoulder-width apart. And only at the moment of sending the knife to the target, either the left or the right foot comes forward. Here again it is necessary to mention the height and length of the student’s arms.

So, let's consider one of the methods of throwing at close range (Fig. 17): the student stands, slightly turning towards the target with his left side or even frontally. Remaining in place, he holds the knife in his right hand. Raising his right hand with a knife at head level, bent at the elbow so as to form an angle of 90°, with a quick and sharp movement of the hand he sends the knife to the target.

The student can make the same movement by stepping out to the indicated distance in the Hidari-Zenkutsu-dachi stance (front left-side stance), while throwing the knife with his right hand. You can also step your right foot into the migi-zenkutsu-dachi stance (front right-hand stance) and also throw the knife with your right hand (Fig. 18).

You can attack the target from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position), immediately taking a stationary position or stepping out to an already known distance simultaneously with throwing the knife (Fig. 19).

This movement will resemble a tetsui-uchi (hammer hand) strike from the outside inwards. You can swing your right hand horizontally from the kiba-dachi stance, with your left side facing the target, and send the knife to the target from a high stance. As for a combat situation, when the enemy is in front of you and does not know who you are, thinking that you will at least fencing or doing some techniques, then if you have learned how to throw a knife, this should simplify your situation.

Distances of 3-4 m are kind of classic. From these distances, learning proceeds well and maximum effectiveness is achieved (author’s personal experience). You can already take a position in hidari or migi-zenkutsu-dachi, or you can step to the throwing line from the neko-ashi-dachi stance (i.e., from the cat stance), as shown in Fig. 20.

Rice. 20

At this distance, you can throw a knife from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position), as if imitating a tetsui-uchi strike, throwing with your right hand, and swinging for a throw from your left ear or shoulder.

I would like to remind students once again: whether you are throwing a knife frontally from a standstill or in the transition from neko-dachi to any of the zenkutsu-dachi stances, your thumb lying on the blade of the knife should lightly touch the handle if you are throwing behind the blade, and not in no case should it go beyond the line of the bent index finger supporting the handle of the knife from below. Moreover, as already mentioned, the phalanx of the thumb resting on the knife should be bent at an angle of 45°. It is also necessary to point out that when throwing a knife sideways from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position) from medium and long distances, the knife will necessarily be scattered horizontally, since the movement of the hand will be very swinging and the hand will be difficult at first hold at one point (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Front and back view

Therefore, on the stand, approximately a meter-long gap 30-40 cm wide is drawn on the stand with black paint, and in the middle of this gap a thick black vertical stripe is applied, which will be clearly visible to the student even with peripheral (side) vision, and he will have to try to stop his hand first when throwing a knife. to this strip (Fig. 22). And then, when the skill comes, throw throughout this gap and beyond.

Rice. 22

In an extreme situation from 3 and 4 m, you can throw a knife from behind your head when the enemy demands that you raise your hands. The knife is hidden vertically behind the collar in a secret pocket if the clothing resembles a ninja suit, and the thrower stands frontally, but with his legs wide apart, or in the position of a horseman - kiba-dachi (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Rear view

From these same stands you can throw knives with both hands, but still hits with the left hand will be worse (there will be a larger spread on the target). Already from 5 m the knife can be thrown by holding both the blade and the handle. The student must remember that when throwing a knife by the blade, he makes only half a turn when entering the target. Throwing the knife by the handle, the knife makes a full rotation. This gives the thrower a special feeling of throwing. Just throwing the knife forward won't do anything. When throwing a knife by the handle, you must make the knife fly 4/5 of the way with the tip forward. And only at this very 1/5 of the way make a full turn and enter the target with the tip. This is difficult to explain in words, it just requires demonstration and practice, practice, practice.

From a distance of 6, 7, 8 m, you can throw a knife both from a high stance (feet shoulder-width apart) with a transition to a front left- or right-sided stance (hidari-or migi-zenkutsu-dachi), and from a cat stance (neko-ashi -dacha) with a sharp transition to one of the above stances, almost simultaneously with a powerful movement of the hand sending the knife to the target. But still, any leg that steps into position must freeze a little before the hand releases the knife into flight. Throwing knives from longer distances seems impractical to me. Behind long years I have not met such practitioners.

This chapter concludes with some practical advice for students. If you are really captivated by this art (throwing knives), if you want to always be in shape and so that your hand does not lose the feeling of throwing, carry a bag or bag with small stones in your pocket. From time to time, with a throwing motion, throw these pebbles in different directions (this is what the Chinese masters did). IN extreme situations, where you are faced with an important task, where the stake is life, you must remember that a knife flies differently in different weather, so train outside in any weather, especially in cold and rain. A wet knife flies out of your hand completely differently. If you have the opportunity to wipe it before throwing, be sure to do so. Try to train in thin leather gloves (black, like all your clothes). The knife is a silent weapon, but remains in the enemy's body, try not to leave evidence. Three of your fingers from the enemy's silhouette inward is a very serious injury when hit by a knife, or death.

For a beginning student, it is enough to have no more than 5-10 knives to practice. As your qualifications increase, gradually increase their number. But we were talking about study and training knives; an advanced master should have a belt with a set of knives located on it, as shown in Figure 24.

Rice. 24

The knives on the belt should be located so that they are not only convenient to grab, but also so that they do not restrict movement when walking or falling. After all, the most important purpose of this belt is to create convenience for work and training. The belt is made only for the individual owner. Knives should be small, no more than 15 cm in length. All other parameters - weight, width, thickness, blade-to-handle ratio - are also selected individually by the master. The belt should be covered with a jacket or cape. Even a master must spend quite a lot of time instantly snatching the knife and quickly putting it away in the cell, as samurai do with a katana (medium sword). Training in snatching and putting away weapons constantly accompanies the master throughout his life. You need to train almost every day - from 30 minutes to 4 hours. But. Naturally, you need to clearly know the task that you or you have been assigned. You must follow the principle: “it’s better a little, but every day, than 4 hours, but once a week.”

If for some reason it is impossible to make a belt and wear it constantly, then the master thrower must fit at least a knife on each hand, on each leg and, as mentioned above, behind the collar on the back. By the way, for this it is desirable to have knives that bend very well, even clasping the hand and protecting it in hand-to-hand combat, with a rubber handle, and well balanced.

And one last thing. During training, the knives will definitely become dull. There will be burrs and nicks on the blades and handles that need to be removed. For these purposes, you can use a file, grinding stone, etc.

So, no matter how many times you run the indicated tools along the blade of the knife, bringing it to its original condition, the same number of times you will have to run the same tools along the handle of the knife so that the ratio of weight and balancing (blade to handle) remains the same.

Mastering the technique of throwing knives is not that difficult - the main thing is as much practice as possible. Only regular workouts will help you gain the necessary skills by learning to fully master own body. And then the blade will invariably hit the target - from any distance.

The most common knife throwing technique is quite simple - anyone can master it. You need to turn around halfway - the knife is in your right hand, which is bent at the elbow (approximately 90 degrees) and is at chest level, left hand along the body (slight bend).

How to throw knives

The body should be relaxed - calmness and self-confidence are the main assistants to a successful throw. Before releasing the knife, you need to slightly bend your knees and lean forward a little. A wide swing of the hand - the wrist still does not change position and does not bend. And only when the thumb, knife and forearm are in line, is it time to release the knife. The blade goes into flight when the arm is fully straightened - this will set the correct flight path and allow you to easily hit the target.

Choosing a throwing knife

The correct choice of a throwing knife also plays an important role - its handle should be quite comfortable, because various decorative and design elements, for example, protrusions or patterns, can interfere with the throwing process. When purchasing a suitable blade, its weight also plays an important role. It is difficult to control a product that is too light or, on the contrary, too heavy - the knife must be ideal for its owner.

Knife Throwing: 4 Simple Secrets to Getting the Blade to Hit the Target

When mastering the knife throwing technique, you should take advice from professionals who will help you short term achieve your goal. Namely:

— Calmness comes first. Most often, the reason for an unsuccessful throw is precisely anxiety.

— Not only the correct actions of the hands are important, but also the placement of the feet. When throwing with your right hand, it is important to align your right leg with the target, respectively, when throwing with your left, place your left leg in desired position.

— The hand should not bend during the throw, otherwise the flight path will change.

— During the final swing of the hand, you must not lower it below the level of the target.

The throwing knife is not launched by the wrist - the whole body is involved in the process. Precise consistent action and adherence to throwing technique invariably leads to success.

By learning to take a small step during the final swing of your arm, you can throw more accurately and harder. It is important that this is not a separate movement - it should become like a continuation of the entire sequence.

Knife throwing training (throwing courses) is conducted in many centers, in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Rostov, Saratov, and other cities. You can choose a suitable training center at almost any one close to your place of residence - there is more than enough information on this matter in search engines, for example, the throwing training center at DOSAAF or others. Training is provided for both beginners and those wishing to improve their level of proficiency. throwing knives to competitive. On