The main Caucasian ridge is complex. Greater Caucasus Range
I like it more unofficial name ridge - Cardiogram of the Caucasus. If you look closely, in the pre-dawn twilight the silhouettes of the mountains really resemble a heartbeat graph. It’s really hard to imagine the size of this heart)
During the foray to Elbrus, the view of the GKH was my main goal; I had long been excited by the panoramas of mountains taken from Bochek or Pastukhov rocks. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch the weather I really wanted to photograph - low clouds. But we were lucky to catch incredible light.
Frankly speaking, filming at altitudes above 3000 meters was a bit difficult. On the first evening, I generally thought about how to take the next step, and not about the composition) What can we say, when just tying the laces on a shoe is a real feat!
Nevertheless, we managed to take great pictures, catch an incredible sunset and see the highest mountains in Europe.
1. In general, in height, the Caucasus Range significantly exceeds the Alps; it has no less than 15 peaks exceeding 5,000 m, and more than 20 peaks higher than Mont Blanc, the highest peak in all Western Europe. The advanced elevations accompanying the Main Range, in most cases, do not have the character of continuous chains, but represent short ridges or mountain groups connected to the watershed ridge by spurs and broken in many places by deep river gorges, which, starting in the Main Range and breaking through the advanced elevations, descend to the foothills and emerge onto the plains.
2. The highest is the middle part of the ridge, between Elbrus and Kazbek (average heights are about 3,400 - 3,500 m above sea level); Its highest peaks are concentrated here, the highest of which - Elbrus - reaches an altitude of 5,642 m above sea level. m.; East of Kazbek and west of Elbrus, the ridge decreases, more significantly in the second direction than in the first.
3. First sunset on Elbrus. Moving with difficulty in the snow, I managed to take a few shots.
4. And the first dawn - after sleepless night filled with PAIN. Frankly speaking, I didn’t even want to get out of my sleeping bag, but greed won - I wanted more shots))
5.
6. This shot was taken standing almost waist-deep in snow
General characteristics of the Caucasian mountain system
The Caucasus Mountains are mountain system, located between the Azov, Black and Caspian seas. All the Caucasus Mountains are divided into the Greater Caucasus and the Lesser Caucasus, connected by the Likhsky ridge.
The North Caucasus and Transcaucasia are also separately distinguished. The border between them runs along the Main (Water Dividing) Ridge of the Caucasus.
The Ciscaucasia extends from the northern foothills of the Greater Caucasus to the Kuma-Manych depression. The Ciscaucasia region is represented by vast hills and plains.
The Talysh Mountains are located in the southeastern part of the Caucasus. Their height reaches 2492 m.
In the central and western parts of the South Caucasus there is the Transcaucasian Highlands, which includes the ridges of the Armenian Highlands (with the highest point - Mount Ararat, 4090 m) and the ridges of the Lesser Caucasus.
Greater Caucasus
The Greater Caucasus stretches from the northwest (Anapa region and the Taman Peninsula) to the southeast (on the coast of the Caspian Sea to the Absheron Peninsula) for 1100 km.
The mountain range reaches its greatest width in the area of the meridian of Mount Elbrus - up to 180 km.
To the north of the Main Ridge stretches a chain of parallel ridges, some of which are cuesta (monoclinal) in nature.
The southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus are represented by echelon-shaped ridges connected to the Main Caucasus Range.
Note 1
The Main Dividing Range runs through the Greater Caucasus.
The Greater Caucasus is divided into three parts: Central Caucasus - occupies the territory from Elbrus to Kazbek; Western Caucasus - stretches from the Black Sea to Elbrus; Eastern Caucasus - occupies the territory from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea.
Main peaks: Mount Elbrus (5642 m) and Mount Kazbek (5033 m).
The following belts are distinguished in the Greater Caucasus:
- Axial part. Includes the Main Caucasus Range (altitude from 3500 to 5000 m), Side Range (3000 m).
- Northern slope belt. Includes parallel ridges descending to the north. The main ridges: Skalisty (3300-3600 m), Pastbishchny (1200-1500 m), Lesisty (1326 m).
- Southern slope of the Greater Caucasus. It consists mainly of echelon-shaped ridges that are adjacent to the Main Range of the Greater Caucasus.
Note 2
The Greater Caucasus is distinguished by significant areas of modern glaciation. In total, there are more than 22 thousand glaciers in the territory, occupying an area of about 1400 square meters. km. Most of the glaciation occurs in the Central Caucasus - 70% of the total glaciation area.
Large centers of glaciation: Bezengi Wall, Bezengi Glacier (Ullu Chiran) stretches for 17 km and covers an area of 36 square meters. km; The Dykh-Su glacier covers part of the slopes of Bashkhaauzbashi, Shkhara, Koshtantau, Krumkol, the length of the glacier is 13.5 km, the area is 34 square meters. km; Big Azau and Small Azau together form the Baksan glacier, located on the southern shoulder of Elbrus and part of the Hoti-Tau ridge.
The most significant peaks (by height) of the Greater Caucasus: Elrus (5642 m), Dykhtau (5204 m), Koshtantau (5152 m), Pushkin Peak (5100 m), Dzhangitau (5085 m), Shkhara (5068 m), Kazbek (5034 m) etc.
Lesser Caucasus
The Lesser Caucasus is a mountain system located in the South Caucasus and includes a complex system of volcanic highlands, ridges and plateaus, with a total length of about 600 km.
The highest point of the Lesser Caucasus is the city of Gyamash (3724 m), located on the Murovdag ridge in Nagorno-Karabakh.
In the west, the Lesser Caucasus is separated from the Greater Caucasus by the Colchis Lowland, and in the east by the Kura-Araks Lowland. From the north and northeast, the region is surrounded by the Armenian Highlands. Significant territories of the central part of the Lesser Caucasus are occupied by the Karabakh, Armenian and Javakheti volcanic highlands with large stratovolcanoes.
The Lesser Caucasus system is made up of ridges that form an arc with its convex side facing the northeast.
Ranges of the Lesser Caucasus:
- Trialetsky,
- Meskheti,
- Somkhetsky,
- Sevan, or Shahdag,
- Murovdagsky, or Mravsky,
- Murguzsky,
- Karabakh.
Main ridge of the Greater Caucasus
The Main Range of the Greater Caucasus, the Main Caucasus Range or the Watershed Range occupies a central position in the Caucasus mountain system.
The entire system of the Caucasus ridge covers an area of about 2600 square meters. km. (the northern slope accounts for 1,450 sq. km, the southern slope – 1,150 sq. km). The width of the ridge in its western and eastern parts is up to 160-180 km, in the central part – about 100 km.
The Greater Caucasus Range is divided into seven regions:
- Black Sea Caucasus – 265 km, from Anapa to Oshten;
- Kuban Caucasus – 160 km, from Oshten to the sources of the Kuban;
- Elbrus Caucasus - 170 km, from the sources of the Kuban to the peak of Adai-Khokh;
- Terek Caucasus – 125 km, from Adai-Khokh to the peak of Barbalo;
- Dagestan Caucasus - 130 km, from Barbalo to the city of Sari-dag);
- Samur Caucasus – 130 km, from the top of Sari-dag to Mount Baba-dag;
- Caspian Caucasus – 170 km, from the city of Baba-dag to the peak of Ilkhi-dag.
The height of the mountains ranges from 260 to 3360 m.
The Greater Caucasus Range is composed mainly of limestone. High basins are observed throughout the mountain range.
There are about 15 peaks in the Caucasus Range with a height of more than 5000 m. The elevations accompanying the Main Range are mountain groups or short ridges connected to the main range by spurs.
Figure 1. The main ridge of the Greater Caucasus. Author24 - online exchange of student works
The northern slope of the Great Ridge forms several spurs perpendicularly adjacent to the main ridge. The Elbrus fault zone separates the waters of the Kuban and the Caspian Sea. This section gradually decreases by ledges and passes into the mountains of Pyatigorsk and the Stavropol Upland.
On the eastern side of the northern slope of the Caucasus Range, on the Dagestan side, there are more developed mountain ranges with several peaks with a height of 3500 m (Vaza-Khokh, Kargu-Khokh, etc.). Towards the north they decline and become the Black Mountains.
The southern slope of the Great Range is less developed, especially its western and eastern parts. This area is adjacent to hills that form the Rioni, Enguri, and Tskhenis-Tskali valleys. To the south of the mountain range there are spurs separating the basins of the Kura, Alazani, and Iori rivers. The most significant peak is Mt. Zagatala (3000 m). Difficult passes include the Mamisonsky and Krestovy passes.
The Caucasus Mountains, as if holding together the space between the Black and Caspian Seas, consist of two mountain systems - the Greater Caucasus and the Lesser Caucasus. The Greater Caucasus is picturesque, majestic and famous. All the largest rivers in the region begin here. The state border of Russia with two states at once - Georgia and Azerbaijan - runs along it.
From northwest to southeast, the Greater Caucasus extends for almost 1,150 km: near the Black Sea, its foothills rise in the Anapa region, and on the opposite side it begins at the Absheron Peninsula, not far from the capital of Azerbaijan. Near Novorossiysk, the width of this mountain system is only 32 km; near Elbrus, the Greater Caucasus is almost 6 times wider.
To make it easier to identify the peaks, this mountain range is traditionally divided by scientists into three sections:
The Western Caucasus (from the Black Sea coast to the foot of Elbrus) consists mainly of low mountains (up to 4000 m), the highest point is Mount Dombay-Ulgen (4046 m);
The Central Caucasus (Elbrus and the mountain range from it up to Mount Kazbek) has 15 highest peaks (5000-5500 m);
Eastern Caucasus (from Kazbek to the Caspian coast). The highest mountain in this part of the massif is Mount Tebulsomta (4493 m).
In addition, the Greater Caucasus is conventionally divided into three belts (longitudinal segments):
The axial part of the mountain system. It is based on the Main Caucasian (Watershed) Ridge and next to it (on the left) is the Side Ridge.
The northern slope belt consists of mainly parallel mountain ranges in the central and western parts of the Greater Caucasus. These ridges decline to the north.
Southern slope of the mountain system. It consists mostly of en echelon ridges that are adjacent to the GKH.
There are a huge number of glaciers on the slopes of the Greater Caucasus - more than two thousand. The glaciated area is approximately 1400 km². The largest glacier in the Greater Caucasus is Bezengi, its length is 17 km, it is located on the Bezengi wall. The record holder for the number of glaciers in the entire mountain system is Mount Elbrus. Most of all eternal ice located in the central part of the Greater Caucasus, about 70% of all glaciers are concentrated here. Thanks to their clear structure and white peaks, the Greater Caucasus Mountains are clearly visible on the map; this mountain range cannot be confused with any other.
Main peaks of the Greater Caucasus
Elbrus is the highest point not only in the Greater Caucasus, but throughout Russia. Its height is 5,642 m. Elbrus is located on the border of Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria, and is a Mecca for mountaineering. Several of the highest mountaineering shelters in Europe are built on its slopes.
Dykhtau (5204.7 m) is the second highest mountain in the Greater Caucasus, which is part of the Bezengi wall. Like Elbrus, Dykhtau is a “two-headed” mountain. Next on the list highest mountains mountain system - Koshtantau (5152 m) and Pushkin Peak (5100 m) - are also located in the Bezengi wall massif.
Dzhangitau (5085 m) is the central mountain of the Bezengi Wall, a popular mountaineering destination. Located on the border of Russia and Georgia.
How did the Greater Caucasus appear?
A huge mountain system cannot have a simple geological structure. The tectonic structure of the Greater Caucasus is complex and heterogeneous, which is associated with the history of the formation of the mountain range. According to recent studies, the Greater Caucasus arose as a result of the interaction of the East European and Arabian lithospheric plates. Millions of years ago there was a bay in this place ancient ocean Tethys, which united the Caspian, Black and Sea of Azov. At the bottom of this ocean there was active volcanic activity, hot rock poured into the earth's crust. Gradually, mountainous massifs formed, which either sank under the water, then rose again on it, and as a result, in the middle of the Mesozoic, in those areas that became islands, sandy-clayey sediments were deposited; in some troughs, these deposits reached several kilometers. Gradually, several islands formed one large island, which was located where the central part of the Greater Caucasus lies today.
At the beginning of the Quaternary period, the Arabian Plate increased pressure on the East European Plate, the Elbrus and Kazbek volcanoes erupted - in general, the formation of the mountain range was active. The sediments on the slopes of the stone islands were compressed into complex folds, which then underwent faulting. The central part of the modern Greater Caucasus rose. The rock rose everywhere and unevenly, and river valleys formed in the faults. At the same time, while the mountains were growing, their icing began against the background of a general cooling. The mountains were almost completely covered with ice. The movements of ice masses and frost weathering completed the appearance of the modern Caucasus mountains: it was thanks to them that the shape of the relief of the Greater Caucasus remained as we know it now - with sharp ridges and moraine ridges.
The Greater Caucasus has long been transformed from a series of impregnable mountain walls into a territory completely inhabited by humans. People live in river valleys, as well as on mountain slopes (sometimes quite high!). There are a huge number of historical monuments here, dear to the people living here. Through numerous passes of the Greater Caucasus, communication has been established between the republics within Russian Federation, as well as with neighboring countries.
Russia has regions with stunning mountain landscapes. The highest and most impressive peaks are located on the Main Caucasus Range. Throughout the entire mountain range, the peaks are distinguished by their height and massiveness. The direction of the ridges of the Caucasus Mountains is from northwest to southeast.
Caucasus region
Where do you think the Caucasus is located? This amazing mountainous region is located between the Black and Caspian seas. It includes the mountains of the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The Caucasus Range includes the Riono-Kura depression (depression), the coast of the two above-mentioned seas, the Stavropol Upland, a small part of Dagestan, that is Caspian lowland, as well as part of the Kuban-Azov slopes.
The main peak of the ridge is the snow-white Mount Elbrus. The entire system of the Main Caucasus Range occupies approximately 2600 km². The northern slope occupies about 1450 km², and the southern slope - about 1150 km². Now let's look at the description of the mountain range in more detail.
Description of the Greater Caucasus Range
Fans of extreme sports, be it climbers or alpine skiers, have chosen this place for a long time. Those who have traveled through the Caucasus Mountains return to these places again. Extreme sports enthusiasts come here for thrills from all corners of our planet.
The Main Caucasus Range, photos of which are presented in the article, divides the Caucasus into two historical and cultural regions: Northern and Southern. You can find the ridge on the map between the Black and Caspian seas. For convenient viewing, the mountain range is usually divided into 7 parts:
- Black Sea Caucasus (from Anapa to Oshten - 265 km).
- Kuban Caucasus (from Oshten to the source of the Kuban - 160 km).
- Elbrus Caucasus (from the source of the Kuban to the peak of Adai-Khokh - 170 km).
- Terek Caucasus (from Adai-Khokh to the town of Barbalo - 125 km).
- Dagestan Caucasus (from Barbalo to the top of Sari-dag - 130 km).
- Samur Caucasus (from Sari-dag to Baba-dag - 130 km).
- Caspian Caucasus (from Baba-dag to the peak of Ilkhi-dag - 170 km).
As you can see, the 7 regions of the Greater Caucasus Range are divided into sections of approximately equal length.
The height of the mountains is varied: it ranges from 260 to 3360 meters. The climate in these places is light and mild, and combined with beautiful scenery, this corner of the planet becomes an ideal place for active recreation in winter and summer.
The Caucasus Range is mainly composed of limestone. In ancient times, this place was the location of the ocean floor. Today, if you look at the mountain range from a bird's eye view, you can see folds of mountains, a huge number of glaciers, active rivers and deep lakes. High basins can be observed along the entire length of the mountain range.
A few words about the northern slope
This side of the Main Caucasus Range is well developed. It is formed from a large number of spurs that adjoin the main ridge at an angle of 90°. The Elbrus fault zone separates the waters of the Caspian Sea and the Kuban. Further, this section decreases with ledges and gently passes into the mountains of Pyatigorsk, as well as the Stavropol Upland.
More developed mountains are located on the northern slope of the Caucasus mountain range on the eastern side, where Dagestan is located. Heading north, they descend, and from there begin the mountain ranges called the Black Mountains. They are gentle and long slopes. Why do you think they were called Black? The thing is that their slopes are covered with dense and impenetrable forests. The height of the Black Mountains is insignificant. However, in this area there are peaks whose height reaches 3500 meters. Such peaks include the mountains Kargu-Khokh, Vaza-Khokh and others.
Information about the southern slope
Compared to the northern slope, the southern slope is much less developed, especially the eastern and western parts of the Caucasus Range. Looking at the map, you can read that this section of the mountain range is adjacent to hills that form the longitudinal valleys of Enguri, Rioni, and Tskhenis-Tskali. To the south, very long spurs extend from the mountain range, which separate the basins of the Alazani, Kura and Iori rivers.
The steepest section of the southern side of the ridge is Mount Zagatala. Its height reaches 3 km above sea level.
Otherwise, the Main Caucasian Range on the southern side is passable, with the exception of two passes: Krestovy and Mamisonsky. Roads across the ridge are almost accessible all year round. In some places they resemble pack trails.
The Cross Pass is of great importance in this area, as the Georgian Military Road passes through it.
About glaciers
Few people suspect, but the size, number and area of the glaciers of the Caucasus Range, the photo of which is given in the article, are practically not inferior to the glaciers of the Alpine Mountains. Their largest number is concentrated in the area of the Elbrus and Tersky ridges.
There are about 183 glaciers of the first order in the basins of the Kuban, Rioni, Terek and Inguri rivers. And there are several times more glaciers of the 2nd category - about 680. Soviet years Extensive research took place in the Caucasus, as a result of which geologists compiled the “Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR.” Soviet scientists in the early 80s counted 2050 glaciers. Their total area was almost 1500 km 2.
As for the glacial dimensions of the Caucasus Range, there is no clear answer. Their area is varied. For example, the Bezengi glacier is almost as large in size as the Aletsch glacier, which is located in the Alps. The Caucasian ice masses, unlike the Alpine ones, never descended low. The most famous glaciers are Bezengi, Chatyntau, Tsey, Big Azau and Tsaneri. Bezengi is the largest glacier in the Caucasus Range. Its length is 17 km.
During the Ice Age, the ice masses of the ridge were larger and more numerous than today. Nowadays, they are in a stage of retreat, which has been going on for decades.
Bezengi
This is a mountainous region located in Kabardino-Balkaria. It is considered the central ridge, as well as one of the highest parts of the Caucasian chain. It includes the Bezengi Wall. It is a 42-kilometer mountain range. This is a high section of the ridge. The boundaries of the Bezengi wall are considered to be from the west - the Lyalver peak, and from the east - Mount Shkhara.
From the north, the Bezengi wall abruptly breaks off to 3 thousand meters in the direction of the Bezengi glacier. In Kabardino-Balkaria it is also called Ullu-Chiran. On the Georgian side, the terrain is complex, there is even an glacial plateau. The most significant peaks of the region are the Bezengi Wall, Yesenin Peak, Shota Rustaveli Peak, Lyalver, Dzhangitau and others.
The main peak of Georgia
The highest point in Georgia is the peak of Shkhara. Its height above sea level is 5193 meters, but some researchers claim that it is higher - 5203 m. The mountain peak is located approximately 90 km north of the city of Kutaisi. Shkhara is the third highest peak in the Caucasus and Russia.
The mountain consists of crystalline schist and granite. Its slopes are covered with snow-white glaciers: on the northern side - the Bezengi glacier, and on the southern side - Shkhara. This place is popular among climbers. The first ascent of this mountain was made in 1933. The hill is also notable for the fact that on the southern slope at an altitude of 2000 meters there is a village that is included in the UNESCO list.
Tseysky glacier
Now let's talk about the glacier, which is located in the North Caucasus. The Tseysky glacier is one of the largest and lowest-sloping glaciers in the Caucasus. You can find it in North Ossetia. It feeds on snow from the top of Adai-Khokh. The height of the glacier is about 4500 meters. It descends to an altitude of 2200 m above sea level. Firn fields, consisting of grain snow, reach about 9 km. The glacier is narrow at the bottom, and the higher it is located, the more it expands. It is constrained by rocks, so it is dotted with cracks, and there are also icefalls.
The Tseysky glacier consists of large and small branches. There are four of them in total. There is also a river that flows out of a beautiful ice arch. Its bed passes through picturesque places rich in centuries-old pine trees. Nearby is the Ossetia tourist center, mountaineering camps, hotels, a weather station and the Caucasus Mining and Metallurgical Institute. There are two cable cars leading to the glacier. Yuri Vizbor wrote poems about this wonderful place. Local peoples composed a lot of legends, songs and tales about the glacier.
Mount Achishkho
This mountain range is located on the western Caucasus side. Refers to Krasnodar region. The height of the mountain reaches 2400 meters and is located 10 kilometers from Krasnaya Polyana. This ridge differs from all others in its rock composition. It consists of shale and volcanic rocks. The landscapes feature ancient glacial landforms, karst lakes and even waterfalls. Mountains are surrounded humid climate, up to 3 meters of precipitation falls here per year. It is considered the largest value in Russia. The snow cover is about 10 meters. As you may have guessed, there are very few sunny days a year in this mountainous corner - no more than 70 days.
The slopes of Mount Achishkho on the northern side are covered with fir forests. On the tops there are mountain meadows, on the other sides there are broad-leaved and beech forests. This place is popular among tourists who prefer walking. Here you can find dolmens - stone buildings of ancient peoples.
Biosphere Reserve
There is a nature reserve in the Western Caucasus, its total area reaches about 300 thousand hectares. In February 1979, UNESCO decided to assign biosphere status to the reserve.
In 2008, it was named after Kh. G. Shaposhnikov, the founder of the Caucasus Nature Reserve. But he became famous not only for this, but also for his breakthrough discoveries in the field of biology. At the beginning of the 20th century, the scientist noticed that the Caucasian bison was disappearing in this territory, so in 1909 he wrote a letter to Russian Academy sciences with a request to develop a reserve. But since the land belonged to the Kuban Cossacks, it was very for a long time the matter was not progressing. The scientist made several attempts, and 10 years later, namely in 1919, the matter got off the ground. In 1924, the bison reserve began to function.
Conclusion
You and I have made a journey from the foot of the Black Sea mountains to the Caspian peaks. Thus, the length of the Caucasus Range is 1150 km. Now you know that it is divided into Northern and Southern historical and cultural regions. The total length of the ridge is divided into 7 parts, each of which has almost the same length. Each mountain region is characterized differently.
Those planning a trip should definitely visit the Caucasus Mountains. You will remember these fabulous landscapes for the rest of your life. The Caucasus offers tourists mountain climbing, rock climbing, river rafting, skiing and many other types of active recreation.
In clear weather the top of the mountain Kezgen(4011 m) gives unique opportunity observe from the side the rich and cheerful picture of the Central Caucasus. Almost all major and minor mountain ranges of the Main Caucasus Range, regions are visible Tyutus, Adyrsu, Chegema, Bezengi, Adilsu, Yusengi and upper reaches Baksan Gorge, and over the passes and less high peaks of the GKH distant mountain vistas open up Svaneti. On the opposite side of the horizon, the Caucasian monarch Elbrus shows a strictly end-to-end symmetrical view of its Eastern peak.
The source material for this publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain. Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.
PANORAMA-1:– evening panorama (July 2007). Covers the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Chatyn, as well as the areas of the spurs of the Main Ridge descending towards the Russian side - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu.
PANORAMA-2:– morning panorama (July 2009). Partially covering Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the wall of Bezengi to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as the South-Eastern (with the Terskolak peak) and Eastern (with the Irikchat peak ) spurs of Elbrus.
The two main panoramas are accompanied by additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs of Eastern Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the Russian Officers Pass (which is near the Kezgen peak 150 m below it).
Together these three panoramas cover the entire viewing circle.
Camera- Nikon 8800.
Read more about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - the one that stretches from the peak hanging over its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan Valley. The spur has a number of left branches towards the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it itself borders on the left side the valley of the Irikchat River and - after its confluence with Irik - the Irik Valley. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to it Subashi(3968 m) in the northwest and the equally high Kezgen duo - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.
The climb to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and easy. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, Soviet Warrior and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat River along a grassy slope, along a path clearly visible from a distance. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen trail takes to the right. Upon reaching the scree slopes, it gets lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility, you can’t miss the takeoff opening on the left to the Russian Officers Pass (tourist 1B). The way out from the pass saddle to the summit (along the north-eastern ridge) is also simple - 1B climbing route. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the Kezgen - Soviet Warrior traverse, which was known in the Adylsu mountain camps as a kind of exile.)
Kezgen is the closest four-thousander north of Baksan; all peaks closer to the river are significantly lower. This advantageous feature of its location and the simplicity of the route make Kezgen an excellent viewing point.
PANORAMAS, DESIGNATIONS, DECODING.
PANORAMA-1 (more than 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-1 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
PANORAMA-2 (more than 1.2 MB, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-2 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast into the valley of the Mukal glacier:
Accepted notations and general principles.
Marked on the panorama:
Mountain peaks- colored circles,
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)– double wave.
Passes, glaciers and gorges are numbered through, from right to left.
All signs glaciers And gorges blue. Signs passes And peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to a particular mountain region.
The color differentiation of the icons helps to more clearly visualize and trace the location of the various mountain regions visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.
Colors used:
– thick green: for objects outside the State border of the Russian Federation,
- red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
– light purple: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
– pure yellow: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
– dirty yellow: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
– dark purple: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
– pale green: for the peaks and passes of the South-Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau jumper,
– light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of Irik and Irikchat,
- white: for the peaks and passes of the Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– blue: for peaks and passes in the short spurs of the GKH (summit circles in a red rim), as well as in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (summit circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (summit circles in a yellow rim).
1. MOUNTAINS
Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given in the “Classification of routes to mountain peaks” (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly from General Staff maps (hereinafter "General Staff"), constructed based on the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of Soviet times. The General Staff provides altitude data with an accuracy of 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such enviable accuracy could only claim to cover random measurement errors, and not systematic errors of the measurement technique itself.
1.1. PEAKS LOCATED IN GEORGIA
1 – Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 – Svetgar, 4117 m
3 – Asmashi, 4082 m
4 – Marianna (Maryanna), 3584 m
5 – Lekzyr (Dzhantugansky), 3890 m
6 – Chatyn Main, 4412 m
7 – Ushba North, 4694 m
8 – Ushba South, 4710 m
9 – Cherinda, 3579 m
10 – Dolra, 3832 m
11 – Shtavleri, 3994 m
1.2. PEAKS OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKR)
1 - Bezengi Wall (details on an enlarged fragment of the panorama)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 – Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorku, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 – Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 – Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 – Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 – Bashkara, 4162 m
14 – Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 – Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 – Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - Shhelda Eastern, 4368 m
22 – Shhelda Central, 4238 m
23 – Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 – Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 – Shhelda Western, 3976 m
26 – Trade unions, 3957 m
27 – Sportsman, 3961 m
28 – Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 – Akhsu, 3916 m
30 – Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 – Gogutai, 3801 m
32 – Donguzorun East, 4442 m
33 – Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 – Donguzorun Western, 4429 m
35 – Nakratau, 4269 m
36 – Chiper, 3785 m
37 – Ciperazau, 3512 m
Peaks in the short spurs of the GKH
1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Main Caucasus, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Maly, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m
1.3. THE TOP OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT
1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the General Staff map, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin’s scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the General Staff map, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to Lyapin’s scheme)
3 - Ulluauz, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the General Staff map, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to Lyapin’s map)
4 - I thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the General Staff map, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to Lyapin’s map)
1.4. TOP OF THE ADYRSU DISTRICT
1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Dzhailyk, 4533 m (4424)
From the Dzhailyk massif, the Adyrsu ridge is divided into two branches:
(a) northwestern branch,
(b) northeast branch.
Peaks of the northwestern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6a – Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7a – Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8a - Steel, 3985 m
Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6b – Kenchat, 4142 m
7b – Orel, 4056 m (4064)
8b – Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b – Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b – Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)
Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:
from Adyrsubashi
a - Khimik, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
c - Triangle, 3830 m
From Dzhailyk
d - Chegem, 4351 m
From Tyutyubashi
e - Kullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)
From Kilar
g - Adzhikol (Adzhikolbashi, Adzhikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).
1.5. THE TOP OF THE ADILSU DISTRICT
(in parentheses are heights according to Lyapin’s scheme, if there is a difference)
1 – Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 – Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 – Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 – MPR (peaks of the Mongolian People’s Republic): Northeast 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), Southwestern 3810 m (3870).
Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:
1.6. PEAKS OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE
1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi North, 3421 m. According to tradition, apparently dating back to the General Staff map, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other
1.7. THE TOP OF THE KOGUTAI STORGE OF DONGUZORUN
1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Maly Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kahiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Dining room, 3206 m.
1.8 PEAKS IN THE JUMPER BETWEEN GKKH AND ELBRUS
1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m
1.9 PEAKS OF THE SOUTHEASTERN ELBRUSS Spur
1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m
1.10 TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE UPPER REACH OF THE IRIKA AND IRIKCHATA GORVES
1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red Hill, 3730 m
1.11 THE TOP OF THE EASTERN Spur of Elbrus
1 - Irikchat West, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat East, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m
1.12 PEAKS IN THE NORTHEAST (IN THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3
Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)
2. PASSES
1 – Khunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Khunalychat (tributary of the Sakashilsu) and Kayarty (Kayarta lake)
2 – Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adzhikol
3 – Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks of Kayarta and Kilar
4 – Sternberg, 2A - between the peaks of Orelu and Kayarta
5 – Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchat and Orel
6 – Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of Peak Steel
7 – Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of Peak Steel
8 – Spartakiada, 2A* - between the Tyutyubashi massif and the top of the Spartakiada
9 – Kullumkol, 1B - between the Tyutyubashi massif and the Kullumkol peak
10 – Tyutyu-Dzhailyk, 3A - between the peak of Dzhailyk and the Tyutyubashi massif
11 – Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of the city of Kichkidar
12 – Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 – Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkar
14 – Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 – Granatovy, 1A - in the northern spur of the VMF peak
16 – Kurmy, 1A - in the northern spur of the Navy peak
17 – Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of Fizkulturnika and VMF
18 – Mestian, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 – Churlenisa Vost, 3A* - between Yesenin Peak and Gestola Shoulder
20 – Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Tot
21 – Dzhantugan, 2B - between the peak of Dzhantugan and the Aristov rocks
22 – Marianna, 3A - between the peaks Marianna and Svetgar
23 – Bashkara, 2B* - between the peaks of Bashkara and Dzhantugan
24 – Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkar
25 – Kashkatash, 3A* - between the peak of Free Spain and the peak of Ullukar
26 – Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak of Bzhedukh
27 – Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Vost
28 – Krenkel, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 – Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 – Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkheldy massifs
31 – Bivachny, 2B* - between the peaks of Fizkulturnika and Trade Unions
32 – Yusengi, 2B – between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi North
33 – Middle, 2B – between the peak of Malaya Shkhelda and the peak of Fizkulturnika
34 – Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the Yusengi valley) – between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi Uzlovaya
35 – Akhsu, 2A – between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 – Becho, 1B – in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is also the lowest pass on the section of the GKH between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the Yusengi peak Uzlovaya.
37 – Becho Lozhny, 1B – in the ridge of the GKH to the west of peak 3506 and to the east of the lane. Olympian
38 – Yusengi Peremetny, 1B – glacial crossing through the short eastern spur of the Gogutai peak
39 – Vysoka Dolra, 2A – at the GKH exit from the top of Vost. Donguzorun under Gogutai peak.
40 – Pastushy (Okhotsky), 1A – connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper reaches of the Kogutayka
41 – Vladimir Korshunov, 1B – between the peak of Bolshoi Kogutai and the peak of Baksan
42 – Pearl of Primorye, 1B* – between the peaks of Big and Small Kogutai
43 – Kogutai, 1B – between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 – Semerka, 3B* - between the peaks of Nakra and Donguzorun Western
45 – Donguzorun False, 1B – the pass closest to the top of Nakra (from the west) through the GKH
46 – Donguzorun, 1A – the simplest and lowest pass through the GKH to the west of the Nakra peak, located west of the Donguzorun False pass.
47 – Suakkalar, 1B* - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 – Sarykol (conventional name), 1B* - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 – Chiper, 1B* - the pass closest to the top of Chiper through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
50 – Chiperazau, 1A - the pass closest to the top of Chiperazau through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
51 – Azau, 1A – between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 – Hasankoysyuryulgen, 1B – between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 – Terskolak, 1B – in the ridge under the Terskolak peak to the north of it
54 – Terskol, 1B* - between the peak of Terskol and the ice slopes of Elbrus
55 – Assol, 1B – the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and the small “internal” glacial cirque between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchata gorges
56 – Frezi Grant, 1B – pass in the same summit circus as the lane. Assol (No. 55), north of it
57 – Irik-Irikchat, 2A – in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers south of the peak of Achkeryakolbashi
58 – Chat Elbrussky, 1B* - in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers on the ridge west of the peak of Achkeryakolbashi
59 – Irikchat, 1B* - between the Irikchat glacier and the peak of Chatkara
PASSES IN THE NORTHEAST, NEAR THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):
Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Zemleprokhodtsev, 1B
3. GLACIERS
1 – Kayarta West (No. 485-b)
2 – Orel (No. 485-a)
3 – Sullukol (No. 491)
4 – Yunom Northern (No. 487-d)
5 – Yunom (No. 487-b)
6 – Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 – Kurmy East (No. 498)
8 – Adyrsu East (No. 493)
9 – Bashkara (No. 505)
10 – Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 – Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 – Ushba Icefall
13 – Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 – Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 – No. 511-a
16 – Yusengi (No. 514)
17 – No. 515-b
18 – Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 – No. 517-b
20 – Kogutai East (No. 517-a)
21 – Kogutai West
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 – No. 537-b
27 – No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 – Big Azau (No. 529)
30 – Garabashi
31 – Terskol
32 – Irik (No. 533)
33 – Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3
4. RIVER BASINS (GORGHES)
1 – Kullumkol
2 – Sullukol
3 – Vodopadnaya (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu River)
4 – Shkhelda (tributary of the Adylsu)
5 – Yusengi
6 – Kogutayka (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of Baksan)
7 – Irik
8 – Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of Baksan)
ENLARGEED FRAGMENTS OF THE MAIN PANORAMAS.
a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailyk.
Array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) in this fragment of the panorama is turned towards us with its western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up in one line: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif ends in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (to the left in the photo) with the Northern wall with routes up to category 6A.
To the right of Tyutya is located Dzhailyk(4533 m), the highest peak of the Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan Valley and the Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, looking out from behind Dzhailyk Chegem(4351 m), famous for its complex rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem one usually enters through the Chegem Gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi gorges parallel to the first.
In the foreground, in the center, is the Sullukol glacier. In the picture you can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailyk (3A) passes, it is between the peaks of Dzhailyk and Tyutyu-Bashi, and Kullumkol (1B), between the peaks of Tyutyu-Bashi and Kullumkol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailyk against its background. All of them are marked on the general panorama.
b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.
Pictured on the left in front of us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the top of the “technical Caucasus” - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A along the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first traversed in 1961 by a team of Baumanians (MVTU, Moscow, leader Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, “cosmonaut number two.” The “sixes” are not classified on the slightly higher peak of Dykhtau. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan used to be a “six”, but at times he was stripped. The Koshtan-Dykh traverse with a climb to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus - there are no “sixes”, unless we talk about climbing to the top after passing the Kyukurtlyu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.
On the left, “British” ridge 4B (G. Wooley, 1889) leads to Koshtan along the Northern ridge; this is the easiest way to the top. (A peak in the GKH north of Shchurovsky Peak is named after Wooley. It is curious that Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley, came to mountaineering, being already a football player and boxer). At the bottom of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - the ice gendarme. The lower, most difficult part of the route - the ascent from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - is hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ullouaza(4682 m). Approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary; you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirgi icefall, of which there are three just before the overnight stops “3900”, and there is also a zone of cracks located higher up. The first two steps go along the moraine and then along the ice, adhering to the left (along the way) side of the glacier, and the third goes around the scree on the left and goes out to the overnight camp "3900", the highest in the area.
In the foreground of the photo is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubeva Pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge with many gendarmes stretches from it. The climb to Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long “five A”. The Golubeva Pass itself remains to the left behind the scenes; it is located in the depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully as one of the popular tourist routes.
Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself with peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moscow's comsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this peak there is a descent towards the Ullutau alpine camp. The peaks of Khimik and Ozernaya are two snowy humps with rocky outcrops; in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubashi. From Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) a small Azot glacier flows into the Kullumkola valley (to the left). He received this “chemical” name from the name of the mountain camp, which operated (since 1936) from the DSO workers of the same name chemical industry. In 1939, eight (!) alpine camps operated in the Adyrsu Gorge. The fate of "Azot" was most successful; now it is the "Ullutau" mountain camp.
To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak, a spur extends in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, aka peak Winter(3466 m), which received this name in the everyday life of the Ullutau alpine camp as an object of low ascents during the winter camp shifts. Another ridge branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the photo) leads to the Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the peak of which falls exactly on the right cut of this fragment. In the background is an array Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern peak (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikova(4888 m), are almost indistinguishable in the ridge running from Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.
On the right photo before us is an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground, near the left cut of the fragment, is the Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle peak below in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the commentary on Koshtantau). In the distance are two peaks, most often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokar and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the peak facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in GKH.
c) Bezengi wall.
In this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional perspective can puzzle even experienced experts in the area; it too “successfully” merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestol.
On the left in the photo you can see the long NE ridge of the “classical” climb to Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - route of D. Cockin (J. G. Cockin, 1888). It was first climbed by the British-Swiss trio U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of an expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society led by Douglas Freshfield. The photographer on this and subsequent expeditions in the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the Cross of St. Anne from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus Mountains. The glacier and Sella peak (4329 m), which is on the approach to the Mizhirgi peak in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier, are named after him. In terms of technical complexity, Kokkin’s route to Shkhara is unlikely to reach even 2B, but it is dangerous because it is relaxing, although there is practically no place to reliably insure yourself on a long snow ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there have been cases of entire ligaments being torn off. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, “Chegem-Adyrsu”) the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to the fifth, wanting to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom KSS Bezengi officially graduates to “four”, but not yet to “five”. The Kokkina route is commonly known as “Crab”: rocky outcrops resemble a crab with its claws down. This crab (it is not visible in the panorama) is clearly visible from the side of Dzhangi-kosha in the lower part of the ridge, above the “cushion”.
The ice gendarme and the Eastern peak of Shkhara are clearly visible on the ridge. There are no classified routes for it; it is covered practically on foot on the way to the Main Peak of Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as South-Eastern Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest European village of permanent residence (i.e. minus ski resorts and weather stations). There are several “fives” to the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi mountain camp here or from the Ailama mountain camp in Svaneti.
The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is, perhaps, the “Austrian” 5B Tomashek-Muller (1930) - ascent from the Bezengi glacier head-on along the Northern Ridge (in the picture it is on the border of light and shadow). During the times of the Stalinist USSR, there should not have been any foreign expeditions in our mountains, but a small diaspora of Austrian communists found refuge in our country in the early 1930s and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (check out the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).
An inconspicuous peak Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention because there are only two routes to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yuri Razumov, 1981), and both are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited “sixes”. They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of crampons-platforms for ice and ice drills (previously they were secured with ice carrot hooks, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).
To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually decreases towards the small rocky peak of the Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind the peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). Rustaveli Peak was first climbed by Georgians in 1937, from the south along route 4A. IN Lately it is often visited from the north, since the relatively safe “Laletin’s board” leads to the depression of the Wall at the peak - a monotonous ice route completed in 1983 by the St. Petersburg team of A. Laletin. In the full-time class of the 1995 Russian Mountain Climbing Championship, doubles leaving at night managed to jump this route to the very top by 10 o’clock in the morning!
Even further to the left in the panorama you can see the Dzhangi-Tau massif half-turned: Dzhangi Eastern(5038 m), home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to Eastern Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall; the only easier routes are to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with a climb through peak 4310). In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after climbing the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli Peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was unsealed in 1888 by Kokkin’s group.
To receive the “Star of Bezengi” badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is 5A, which is dangerous due to ice avalanches); any peak of Dzhangi is enough – first of all, the simpler and safer Eastern one. There are no classified routes from the north to Western Dzhangi yet (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak is not visible from this side, but objectively dangerous ice faults are visible. But on the Georgian side, two 5B are classified in Western Dzhangi. I wonder when they were last seen?..
Looks about the same ice “vegetable gardens” from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn Plateau stretches to Gestola. Katyn was also first climbed in 1888 by members of the British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 4B hp (G. Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the NE edge of Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.
The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver massifs, and a long ridge running from Gestola to the southwest (to the right in the photo) and partially hiding the Katyn Plateau leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). It is not visible in this fragment of the panorama (it is to the right), but in the general panorama it is there. In the 1990s, Georgians brought a metal cross with a characteristic shape similar to the Georgian flag to the top of Tetnulda. The easiest way to Gestola(4860 m) from the north - this is 3B through the peak Lyalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along the technically simple 2B and a subsequent simple traverse through peak 4310 and the Gestola shoulder. This route (first climbed all the way back in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese hike - take a shortcut to peak 4310 by climbing it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This version of the route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although it will not have any technical difficulties even at 3A (be careful in the upper part - destroyed rocks).
The story with the name of the peak in the crest of the Bezengi wall west of the Gestola shoulder is very complicated. This slight increase in the ridge previously “passed” as peak 4310 or Bezymyanny Peak. The last name haunted renaming activists, and in the 1990s, two signs were erected on this peak in the neighborhood, one stating Yesenin peak, the other - peak 50th anniversary of CBD. The “anniversary” version of the name, it seems, sounded more significant than the poetic impulse of Yesenin’s admirers, for the sign “50 years of the Kabardino-Balkaria” was the result of a massive ascent along 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in technical descriptions this tip, as a rule, is still referred to as “4310”. It’s clearer: no matter what you call it, the height will not change :)
Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Ciurlionis East and West. On the enlarged fragment of the panorama, Ciurlionis East is indicated, it is between peak 4310 and the Gestola shoulder. Vertex Bashil(4257 m) - in the picture against the backdrop of Lyalvera - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and already belongs to the Chegem Gorge area.
A few words about height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.
All sources agree that Shkhara is the highest point of the Wall. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. Thus, for Shkhara Main you can find not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more “prestigious” 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Main - values 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin’s map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single region) and for higher points Shkhara And Jangi we take the values accordingly 5069 m(5068.8 according to the General Staff) and 5058 m. Direct visual assessments also give preference to Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi Wall from the Northern Massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Dzhangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of the dominant peak of the Wall.
Finally, about curvature of the "arc" of the Bezegi Wall, visible in the photo. The visual impression of its great curvature in the Shkhara-Gestola section is illusory; it is the pure effect of a large magnification of the image, in which the picture of a bunch of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but does not expand in depth. So it seems that the slender ridge visible from the end is wagging its sides. In relation to this image: if you convert the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Western) into kilometers, then it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.
d) Svaneti mountains and Jantugan pass.
The main characters of this fragment are the dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, modest Marianne(3584 m), in a pair of two, completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left). In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of color shades. Peaks lined up behind Marianna Asmashi ridge, which are identified very uncertainly at a given end angle. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers if it were open to visitors from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the passes in the region - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are of category 3A.
A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest on the southern side of the GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the area from the Kashkatash Pass in the west to the area of the Bashiltau peak in the upper reaches of the Chegem Gorge in the east. These glaciers are adjacent to the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple rotten from the inside: its entire interior is broken by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movements on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristova rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga are possible only near the slopes of these peaks.
The glacier on the take-off to the Dzhantugan pass is severely torn, but in recent years there has been a path to simply bypass the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass close to the end of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the photo). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you don’t see a clear bend in any direction, everything is flat, and only after walking 50-70 meters to the south and bumping into the faults, you understand that there has been a general decline towards Georgia. (At the same time, the red and white border stick sticks out only about twenty meters above the cliff in our northern direction.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass leading to the plateau - Eastern Dzhantugan, also known as False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) . The ascent to it from the Adyl-su gorge is no more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (via a tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes) you have to go around the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Dzhantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, this one is clearly preferable. There is also the option of climbing to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the chain of Aristov rocks.
Aristov Rocks named in memory of Oleg Dmitrievich Aristov, who stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to “climb” the peaks above the Dzhantugan plateau along the simplest routes and made several first ascents – Dzhantugan along 2A, Gadyl along 3A, the Gadyl-Bashkara traverse (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov led the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed leader of the assault group, which had the order to bring the bust of Stalin to Communism Peak (then Stalin Peak). Oleg walked with frostbitten feet and slipped, falling off at the very top.
The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from Adyl-Su passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flattened areas. Like other glaciers in the Caucasus, Dzhankuat has been rapidly retreating in recent decades. At its tip, in a clearing with a seductive name with the seductive name “Green Hotel”, are the houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes held here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In the summer there are students at the station. In winter, the houses are convenient to use for overnight accommodation; they protect you from the winds from the pass, which make you more playful when descending into the wide flat part gorges below the Dzhankuat glacier.
From the Dzhantugan plateau it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. In the eastern direction they are simple - to the peaks Gumachi(3826 m) along 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) along 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route in the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. In the western direction from the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to climb Dzhantugan along 2A and 3A, as well as to Bashkara along 3B, Gadyl along 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugansky (1B).
Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of the panorama fragment, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Jan is facing us here with its northern side, on which three triple-Bs are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is the edge casting a shadow. By going around the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb to the bridge between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Near this crossing, route 3A to Dzhan begins (along the SW ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.
The Bashkara-Gadil massif borders the Dzhantugana plateau from the west. From the plateau it is clearly visible that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) – ends of one massif. He simply faces Svaneti with the “Gadyl” side, and towards Balkaria with the “Bashkar” side, which is why he received from the corresponding observers different names. The Bashkara-Gadyl traverse (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the area (K. Egger, 1914). In the panoramic photo from Kezgen, the Gadil peak is not visible, it is closed by Bashkara, which is presented in all its severity in the enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara breaks off towards the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which there are two routes 6A, technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. The snow “pillow” to the right of Bashkara is the Pobeda Pass, one of the most difficult in the area (3B according to the tourist classification). The Bashkara pass, between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. The Bashkara glacier descends from the northern slopes of Bashkara, from the melting of which Lake Bashkarinskoye was formed, threatening a breakthrough and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.
e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.
The same section with markings of peaks, passes and glaciers.
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(Remember, the peaks of the GKH are marked with solid red circles, the passes of the GKH are marked with red crosses).
From left to right:
Top 14 - Ullukara(4302 m), located in the GKH, ends with a wall of difficulty 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 against the backdrop of Ullukara - peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the Ullukara spur. From the middle reaches of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top along which route 2B runs - one of the longest “double B” in the area (along with “double B” to Eastern Donguzorun along the GKH ridge). Groups of beginners usually walk this route overnight.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A* - located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullukara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows opposite the lower houses of the Jantugan mountain camp.
Peak 15 - Peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in GKH. The route to the top along the eastern ridge from the pass is category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rock tower (Alexey Osipov and his comrades, 1995) is recommended as a winter option; it is dangerous for rocks in the warm season. There are several “five B” routes along the rocky tower. The rock gendarme in the eastern ridge is sometimes called Gogol Peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge is Lermontov Peak (I remember Yesenin Peak, mentioned in the description of Bezengi near the Lyalver peak). In mountaineering terms, these are still gendarmes; there are no independent routes leading to them, but topologically, “Lermontov’s gendarme” – whatever one may say, this is the junction peak of the GKH. The Dollakora ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Top 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in GKH. The snowy slopes of the bridge between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzhedukha represent the simplest, but dangerous by landslides, route of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as the “Trough”.
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the East Caucasus Peak and the Bzhedukh Peak.
Peak 17 - Peak Caucasus Eastern(4163 m), the nodal peak of the GKH. Here the Main Range turns away from us, towards the peaks of Vuleya and Shchurovsky, and the remaining peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Caucasus Saddle, 3A - is located in the GKH spur between the Main and Eastern peaks of the Caucasus.
Peak 3 - Peak Caucasus Western, located in the spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkelya, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the Western and Main peaks of the Caucasus.
Peak 4 - Peak Caucasus Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.
A short but powerful spur with the peak Chatyn Glavny extends from Western Chatyn to Svaneti. It separates the two branches of the Chalaat glacier, ending on the Chatyn plateau - the southern cirque of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid “sixes”. Approach from Russia to the Chatyn Plateau under the routes to the Northern Wall of Chatyn - up the Shkheldy gorge through the Chatyn South pass, also known as Chatyn Lozhny (2B). (For more information about this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article, among others useful links.) From the Georgian side, enter the Chatyn Plateau without very strong desire difficult, for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Cora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the complex icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with the equipment.
Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur departs from the GKH to Svaneti with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks Northern Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).
The main GKH passes in this junction:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Western and Malaya Ushba, the Academician Alexandrov Pass is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky Peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkheldy massifs.
f) Shhelda massif.
Peak heights Shkheldinsky massif(from left to right):
Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak The science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m
By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse Shhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri was completed (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Yu. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974). The mandatory set of traverses for all Shkhelda peaks includes five of the six named above: Western Shkhelda, located on the distant periphery, in the isthmus already on the approaches to the peak of the Trade Unions, falls out.
The remaining peaks of the Shhelda massif are considered gendarmes. The gendarme Rooster stands out especially – a tall rocky phallus next to the Eastern Tower of Shkhelda.
g) Malaya Shkhelda area.
Not particularly noticeable, but interesting for its topology and rich in surrounding views, the mountain cluster around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame from the left from the side of the peak adjacent to Shkhelda Trade unions(3957 m) and, moving with a slight southern roll to the west through the depression of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B*), climbs the peak Sportsman(3961 m, not to be confused with the peak Day of the Athlete, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns 90 degrees from it and, going north-west, bypassing the Sredniy pass (3910 m), rises to the top of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge of Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears to be an end snow slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Having gone down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns strictly west and, passing the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), climbs to a low peak that is completely easy to approach from any side Yusengi Uzlovaya(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right edge of the frame towards the Becho Pass, and in the north-east direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. For more than a kilometer it leads along a wide and impeccably smooth snow ridge (the summit outlet of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly passing the area of the Rodina pass (2A, 3805 m) and reaching its highest point at the top Yusengi(3870). Then it goes down a long way into the Baksan Valley (in the photo along the ridge in our direction).
Both peaks of Yusengi and the Rodina pass provide gorgeous views towards Elbrus and Donguz; no other observation point will give you greater views of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The peak of Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent vantage point for the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and the Fizkulturnik peak gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda - Ushba - Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.
Ascent on foot to the peak Fizkulturnik from the lane. Average is 6-8 minutes. The climb from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda is a nasty 2A climb along old fragile rocks. The rock traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and a more extended traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Fizkulturnik peak - Trade Unions peak - as 3A.
The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the cirque of the Akhsu glacier, which is open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from its sources to the place of its confluence with the Shkhelda glacier. There is no longer section of open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.
h) Donguzorun and Nakra massifs.
When you look at the Donguzorun massif from Cover(4269 m) from Terskol, you wonder: why was this Nakra called Nakra and called it at all, if it is nothing more than an appendage of the really serious and sign-defining mountain Donguzorun? When you stand in the upper reaches of the Yusengi gorge and look up at the monumental eastern wall of Donguz under a centuries-old glacial shell, you are even more surprised: what does Nakra have to do with it and where is she, this dependent little girl? But when you look at the Donguza massif from Kezgen, the global picture becomes clear. The western peak of Donguz is the center of a regular three-pointed star. From it to the southeast (to the left in the photo) the Donguza ridge stretches; it is this that makes up the main part of the complex - the Donguzoruna massif itself with its three adjacent peaks: Donguzorun East(4442 m), Main(4454 m) and West(4429 m). From the western peak the northeastern spur of Donguz descends directly towards us, which is at the intermediate peak Interkosmos(3731 m, in the photo from Kezgen this is a gently sloping snow-covered pyramid) is divided into two branches, a very short northern one, which gracefully curves down to the Donguzorun River above the Chegetskaya Polyana, and the longer one - the eastern one, Kogutai (we can clearly see the shallow flat snow bowl of the western circus of Kogutai). In this branch above the glacial cirque, two similar triangular tips are clearly visible - Big Kogutai(3819 m), it is to the left, and Maly Kogutai(3732 m). The Main Ridge itself from the western peak of Donguz goes west (to the right), immediately jumps onto the Nakra tower and then gracefully descends to the hospitable Donguzorun pass (1A, 2302).
And yet, it would be a great injustice - and a factual error - to consider Nakra not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is adjacent to it, and not to its dominant neighbor, from the south. Tsalgmyl ridge, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space surrounded by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries Nakra (from the west) and Dolra (from the east). Only a small internal area was subjugated by Donguzorun - the one occupied by the modest and short Dolra ridge, nestled three kilometers to the GKH and adjacent to the Main Peak of Donguz.
The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra massif is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous, non-steep climb from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-armed Kvish glacier stretches freely (and from where the routes of G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903 - both 2A) were laid to the peaks of Donguz at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything abruptly ends down into Russia, with the eastern and northern walls of the massif, famous for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And immediately beyond the reset of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz there are greenery and the Cheget-Terskol delights of civilization.
In connection with such an extraordinary topology, in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the Northern Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a team of two from Kyiv climbed, but soon after reaching the summit they did not get in touch and disappeared. They had no food (they dropped it while still on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. They were found only on the 8th day...at the Minvod airport (!). .
i) Elbrus.
To the observer at the top of Kezgen Elbrus addressed by his Eastern peak(5621 m), and as symmetrically as possible in terms of the central center line and side exits. The western peak of the mountain (5642 m) is completely covered by the Eastern one.
On the Eastern peak, on the right side, rocks are visible against the sky; they border the summit crater with a 20-meter wall. The highest point of the dome is on the southern (left in the photo) edge of the crater. This summit crater is open to the east, towards us, and on the slope, half a kilometer below it, a side crater yawns, and below it, the Achkeryakol Lava Flow (ALF) stretches further down - a chain of scree rocks of volcanic origin. This stream descends to the ice fields of Eastern Elbrus, giving rise to the rivers Irik and Irikchat.
On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus, two spots of rocky outcrops are visible against the sky - approximately at 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, named after the member of the expedition, General Emmanuel, who reached them: "..One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - rose to a height of 15,200 feet. The full height of Elbrus above the level of the Atlantic Ocean is determined to be 16,800 feet"(quoted). Each of these altitude values was obtained with more than a 10% error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and, when linked to the currently accepted height of Elbrus (5642 m), allows us to estimate the height of the cliffs reached by Lenz at 5100 m. This means that we are talking about the upper rocky outcrops.
A few words about the historical route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (1868). The mountain route classifier leads Freshfield through Shelter 11, but he took a different route (described in detail in his best-selling book, Exploration of the Central Caucasus). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Upper Baksan) and the first day on horseback advanced along the Baksan valley, and the second day they climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the dome of Elbrus first appeared, and reached the bivouac site near the “Ice Base”. The group reached the summit at three o'clock in the morning. Having stepped onto the glacier, she walked in a straight line towards the cone and first reached a height from which spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, she met the sun. By half past eight, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the top in the area of the current obelisk.
“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge, crowned by three elevations and framed on three sides by a snow plateau, open to the east. We walked - rather, ran - along the ridge to the very end, passing two significant depressions and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out to see if there was a second peak somewhere, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that the western slope abruptly dropped down to Karachay and that there were no dense clouds that could hide a peak approximately the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by haze... We must remember that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of the structure of the mountain.”
Having built a “stone man” on the top, the group began their descent along the ascent path at the beginning of twelve, went down into the valley in the evening and the next day returned to the Urusbievs, where they were greeted with greetings and treats.
“We were caught in the crossfire of questions about how it was up there at the top, and we were sad to report that we did not see the giant rooster that lives in the heights and greets the sunrise with a cry and flapping its wings, and greets uninvited guests with its beak and claws, wanting to protect the treasure from people.”
Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus one cannot remain silent about it own biography. Why is the Main Caucasus Range seemingly the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with the fragmentation of the earth's crust at the late stage of mountain building. The Elbrus volcano formed in the Side Range on the watershed of the Malki, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater are preserved in the form of the Khotyutau-Azau rocks. Nowadays, the two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of the ancient crater - a highly raised pedestal (base) made of ancient rocks of granite and crystalline schist.
Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose in low hills, and powerful eruptions of gas-rich magma formed first volcanic cone(its remains in the area of the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano started working again– an almost kilometer-long cliff speaks about its power Kükurtlyu. A cross-section of this wall clearly shows how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuff and ashes alternate with frozen lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lava alternated many times, and when the volcano began to calm down, hot gases and solutions continued to penetrate through the thickness of the volcanic rocks for a long time. Thanks to this, layers of sulfur were formed, now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kükurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kyukurtlu are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.
Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. Lava outpourings descended over and over again into the Baksan valley. The slowly cooling lava contracted in volume and cracked, and remarkable columnar structures were formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy Azau gorge.
Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. The explosions knocked out a plug of frozen ancient rocks from the crater of the volcano, and the volcanic material spread over tens of kilometers (discovered near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem Valley). At this time it was formed Western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose layer of volcanic bombs, tuffs and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, lava outpourings began - now in the upper reaches of the ancient Malki valley, and not towards Baksan.
Elbrus area from space - on Google Maps:
Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Peak is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the Eastern peak, it is not always obvious where the highest point is...
The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the 2nd part of Igor Pasha’s article.. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a significantly larger volume..
We also provide a number of basic links on the topic of publication:
http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Database of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain hikes. The author of the caucatalog website is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).
The authors will be grateful for constructive comments, pointing out any factual inaccuracies and providing additional information. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!
