What parameters should you use to choose digital? Best choice: Sony Cyber-shot DSC-TX20
Digital camera - the death of chemistry
There are hundreds of sites on the Internet with similar topics - how to choose a camera, how to choose a camera - but, perhaps, this is the most correct one, but how many correct and useful things are there on the Internet? :) So, you are planning to buy a camera. However, if you don’t like taking photographs, and don’t like looking at beautiful (or simply memorable) pictures, then you definitely shouldn’t buy it. We won't take into account professional photographers who also don’t like any of this, but are forced to earn their bread! So you've decided, but how to choose a camera? And what to take: film or digital? This question will surprise some people immensely, since now most people view their photo masterpieces on a computer screen, and few people print on photo paper. Moreover, it is convenient not only to view, but also to edit digital photographs on a PC.
Digital camera! The possibilities for creative self-expression here are truly endless. To get a digital image from film, you need to shoot it entirely, then (not knowing what worked and what didn’t) send it to the developer, then print it, then scan it from a card (with loss of quality) and only after that save the file to your hard drive PC. Film is yesterday. Professionals will now make me laugh, they will prove with foam at the mouth that you can take beautiful pictures with the help of an old Zenit, the quality of which will not be inferior to, and will surpass, modern digital cameras. They will also say that you can always buy the structural part of a modern film camera, including the autofocus system, for similar money, a class or even two higher than that of a digital camera. And professionals also say...
Don't listen to them. They are cunning and deceitful. They are unbearably tormented by the realization of the fact that now any dummy who does not understand anything about photography can use a cheap digital camera to take a pretty decent picture with one click of a button, and if the picture does not work out, then you can delete it and immediately take a new one. Film can't do that. And now even the most fanatical adherents of film cameras have a digital point-and-shoot camera in their bosom (for quick reportage shooting), and professionals have a good digital SLR with a powerful lens in their bags. Why, quickly and conveniently... And they keep their old Zenit with reverence, like Museum exhibit, they are happy to show it to friends, show really high-quality photographs, but they are being photographed less and less often.
However, we will not laugh at the professionals. They shoot very high-quality large-sized photographs and not with a Zenit or FED, but with a medium and large format film camera. This is a completely separate niche, so we will consider digital. And first, let's finish comparing digital cameras with “regular” 35 mm film cameras.
Indeed, a digital camera is not always inferior in quality to a film camera of a similar class, but in terms of convenience it is an order of magnitude superior. No by 2 orders of magnitude. You don't need to constantly buy film; it's very convenient to store and edit pictures on a PC. And the most important thing is that to make sure that the photo turned out well or not, you don’t need to return home, send the film for development, and print a portrait of your beloved boss on a card to make sure that the photo is hopelessly ruined by blinking (and therefore closed) eyes. On the display of the digital camera you can immediately see the result of the shooting and, if necessary, immediately retake it. And one more thing: a digital camera can easily change the light sensitivity of its main photographic material - the matrix (also called a photosensor), where, in fact, the photograph is born. While in a film camera you will have to change not the settings, but the film itself - take out one and insert another... Among other things, digital is developing at a gigantic pace (processors, sensors, algorithms), but film seems to have reached perfection: there is nothing left to develop there . These latter factors will completely outweigh any superiority of film cameras, and here the question is - how to choose a camera- Actually, it no longer raises any questions. In addition, some firms have gradually switched to digital.
For example, since 2006, Nikon has almost completely stopped producing film cameras (only two models remain - Nikon F6 and Nikon FM10), concentrating on the production of digital photographic equipment. At the same time, technical support for discontinued cameras will continue for another ten years.
What other advantages of numbers? I almost forgot: digital photos never fade! :)
Photochemistry is dying very slowly but surely...
How to choose a camera
Digital camera - compact or DSLR
Why such difficulties? Yes, I just need to choose a camera to take regular pictures, and not bother with the details. Maybe you could also suggest getting acquainted with the camera’s design? Why do I need this crap? Not a question! You close the website, go to the store and ask the seller: how to choose a camera? He will explain everything competently in 5 minutes, show the models and, if you wish, sell the one you need :) The question is different. Why are you still looking for materials on the Internet, why are you reading this article? A?
And I will answer. When the seller selects the right camera for you, you still have to decide whether to buy it (or not)! No matter how you shift the choice of camera to the seller (friends, acquaintances, photographers), there is no escape from this issue...
So, we decided that we will consider only the numbers. But which one? I am always killed by a bunch of photo sites, where the dummies are first dumbfounded by the abundance of technical characteristics of cameras, then they confuse him with countless tests like Sony vs Canon, and in the end they finally finish him off with the conclusions: “one camera has better color rendition, while the other has less noise and chromatic aberrations.” Adding fuel to the fire is the argument that when choosing a camera, you should first of all not chase the number of megapixels, but pay attention to the quality of the optics. Correct, but absolutely empty words! I wonder how a simple teapot can determine the quality of optics in general, and glass in particular, in a store? And why are megapixels not important if the detail of the image directly depends on them? Maybe ask the seller about this, who often knows even less than you? And how, in the end, do you choose a camera?
Let's try to figure it out. There are 2 types of teapots. Some want to take beautiful photographs, others want to take protocol photographs, like “Vasya was here,” but both want to choose a camera that suits them.
There are 2 types of cameras: compacts (especially cheap and limited ones are called point-and-shoot cameras) and SLR cameras.
soap box- this is a fully automatic camera in which there is no manual control of shutter speed and aperture, it has a built-in flash and a fixed lens (usually zoom);
compact- advanced soap dish: has manual settings, a slightly larger matrix (photosensor) than a soap dish, as well as greater weight, dimensions and price; their lens is also non-removable, but with a more decent aperture ratio;
non-DSLR— a large compact with the ability to change optics, sometimes with a large (like a DSLR) matrix;
SLR cameras- got their name for aiming the viewfinder using a mirror, have all manual settings (the main ones are located on the body and not hidden in the menu), a different focusing system, the ability to change optics, a larger matrix and many other features. They have a lot of weight, dimensions and price:(
We will consider these types of photographic equipment in more detail, since point-and-shoot cameras and SLRs exist in both film and digital photography.
The main difference between a digital camera and a film camera is the matrix (photosensitive sensor), which acts as a film. This is where the image is born.
In a digital compact, the selection of frame boundaries and automatic focusing are carried out directly on the matrix with the image displayed on the display screen in real time (this “miracle” is called Live View), or through the viewfinder. In point-and-shoot cameras and most compacts there is no viewfinder at all, only in top models compact cameras. Most often we select the frame border on the screen.
By the way, if you switch the SLR camera to the Live View operating mode (there is one there), the camera will work like a point-and-shoot camera, aiming at the matrix.
A non-mirror camera (which includes a compact camera with a point-and-shoot camera) has (I repeat: in top models!) a simple optical viewfinder located above the lens, so when shooting at very close distances, there is a mismatch between the image that the camera lens “sees” and what it sees photographer through the viewfinder eyepiece. Isn’t this where the proverb “the eye sees, but the tooth numbs” comes from? :)
the image observed by the viewfinder of a non-reflex camera does not match the image in the lens
This mismatch is also called parallax. And the closer the object being photographed, the more parallax makes itself felt. Therefore, in digital compacts it is more accurate to aim using the screen: it has 100% image coverage! In addition, the lack of a viewfinder in point-and-shoot cameras (and most compacts) makes the design simpler, lighter, and ultimately cheaper. It is due to this that the camera becomes compact (and due to the smaller matrix too).
Excuse me, why the hell is this viewfinder even needed? And even in expensive models! Isn't it better to choose a simpler camera, with a screen-based camera? There are several reasons not to do this:
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Comment to point No. 5.
Sighting directly on the matrix (with pixel-by-pixel rendering of the image onto the screen) has a very serious drawback: the slowness of autofocus and, as a result, the general brakes of the digital compact (and DSLRs in Live View mode). The reason for the compact's problem is the lack of phase-phase autofocus sensors; with this design, the sensors are technically difficult to position in the optical path of the camera. But putting a super-powerful processor in a cheap camera doesn’t have commercial sense. Don’t forget that point-and-shoot cameras are produced not for the development of reportage photography, but to increase sales revenue :)
So, we have identified the cause of the slowness, it remains to explain the consequence. Due to the delay in focusing on the screen, we may not “click” exactly what we had in mind, since the bird being photographed can quickly fly away, and a fidgety child will have time to show the back of his head to the lens (and even more than once). As a result, the terrible brakes of both cheap point-and-shoot cameras and more expensive compact cameras make reportage photography unrealistic. Even top-end compacts with an optical viewfinder do not solve the problem, because they still focus on the matrix.
The conclusion is simple: the screen is only needed for viewing photos. If your camera has a viewfinder, it is extremely undesirable to use the screen for shooting, and in DSLRs you should never use it.
You will read the exceptions to this rule when we get to the rotating screen.
compact camera diagram
The diagram shows the misalignment between the photographer’s gaze and the lens: the viewfinder is located above the optics and matrix. Operating principle: light falls through the lens directly onto the matrix, after which the camera processor processes information from each pixel and draws the image on the screen in real time. In addition, the matrix sensors provide continuous focusing. All this causes not only time delays, or, as they say, “soap box brakes,” but also heating of the matrix.
But let's return to the viewfinder. So, in compact cameras there may be no viewfinder at all. And, conversely, not every DSLR has an active screen with viewing the frame BEFORE shooting - you can only view photos on it. Many people ended up being unpleasantly surprised when switching to a DSLR: why can’t you aim at the screen?? :) (the situation has long changed: now almost all SLR cameras are equipped with such a display.)
Reflex camera
Is there viewfinder parallax in DSLRs?
A SLR camera has a more sophisticated device for selecting the boundaries of the future photograph. Aiming occurs directly through the lens! How is this possible if there is film (or matrix) behind the lens? That's right, there is no viewfinder in this place (and there cannot be!), the eyepiece itself is located on the back wall of the camera but higher (as in a compact camera). The trick lies in the rotating mirror located at an angle in the area between the lens and the matrix!
SLR camera diagram
The mirror blocks the light from reaching the photographic material, then, reflecting the image upward, directs it through a glass prism into the viewfinder eyepiece. This sighting allows you to frame your shot more accurately: you are looking directly through the lens, and not over it! Another advantage of the optical viewfinder is that the matrix at this moment “does not work”, does not heat up, and does not consume the battery.
Why is a glass pentaprism needed? The fact is that a mirror by its nature gives an inverted reflection, i.e. mirror The person will be depicted upside down! And the prism turns it over to its “original” position and directs it into the viewfinder eyepiece. After pressing the “trigger”, the mirror folds back and the light falls on the matrix (or film), “highlighting” the image there. After which the mirror immediately returns to its original state - you can take a new photo! In this operating principle, a film camera and a digital SLR are not much different.
The difference is that the photographic film must be shot to the end (without knowing whether the pictures are obtained or not), then developed, then the photographs are printed, and the matrix immediately produces electrical signals from its cells, which are then encoded into numbers - and the camera processor, believe me , knows how to work with numbers! Next, the digitized photo is stored on the memory card as a file. You can view it on the display, or you can copy it to your computer’s hard drive and admire the masterpiece on the big screen.
Externally, an SLR camera differs from a point-and-shoot camera in its large dimensions and a characteristic hump at the top (pentaprism!). Compare both designs: there is no mirror in the point-and-shoot, there is no heavy glass pentaprism and (in most models) there is no viewfinder. That’s why the DSLR is huge, heavy and expensive! There are, of course, advantages :)
A DSLR camera has one more advantage: in a compact, the lens is built in once and for all, but in a DSLR, lenses can be changed, using each for its own tasks.
DSLR and interchangeable lens
There are different types of interchangeable lenses. For example, when shooting a portrait, “portrait lenses” are used, there are macro and telephoto lenses, there are wide-angle lenses, etc. In digital compacts, as a rule, a “station wagon” with a zoom is installed, i.e. A lens with a variable focal length, suitable for various tasks, but, of course, it is inferior to a specialized lens. We will return to the characteristics of optics more than once; in addition, there is a separate page for the curious
Let's summarize a bit. Has many differences reflex camera from compacta: fast phase detection autofocus system, lack of viewfinder parallax, larger matrix, and, of course, higher price... In short, there are differences and they are significant, but the main thing, in my opinion, is not this at all, but what and how you will shoot, and For what.
It is easier to shoot a report, sports, or other rapidly changing events with a DSLR. A DSLR camera gives higher quality images in difficult lighting and high ISOs. It is indispensable when shooting portraits, when you want to highlight the face with a shallow depth of field, blurring the background. And it’s easier to shoot landscapes with a soap dish and a compact: everything will be sharp up to the horizon. Such cameras are easier to carry and easy to take on trips. Top models of compacts are not inferior in photo quality to DSLRs - in good light or minimal sensitivity. But the lights of the city at night without a tripod will look ugly on any camera!
If you are not shooting a reportage (and amateurs, as a rule, do not need it), you are taking ordinary photographs for memory (where you have been, what you have seen, the faces of relatives), you are not planning to view (or print) large sizes, you are not going to improve your photography skills, and you are not If you have special requirements for the quality of your photos, then take an inexpensive point-and-shoot camera without manual settings - this camera is yours! And vice versa.
Buying a DSLR camera to use it only in green mode (“automatic”) is pointless, since in this case the capabilities of the DSLR are used by only a quarter (and sometimes less).
If a person does not understand what depth of field is and how to focus correctly, then a SLR camera will bring no less grief than a cheap point-and-shoot camera, in which everything is always in focus. And the DSLR controls placed on the body will be a waste of money, and the size and weight will be annoying. A DSLR camera is needed for those who want to really learn how to take photographs, and not click everything in a row and immediately post it on social networks without worrying about the quality.
I have already briefly explained how to choose a camera, but which one is up to you!
If you are not well versed in photography and still don’t really know what you will be photographing, and don’t even know why you need it at all, but want to buy it, then choose the cheapest camera. I love it! Because you are not even sure that you will be interested in photography. Because even a cheap point-and-shoot camera produces quite normal pictures in good lighting. Because tomorrow you will get tired of taking pictures of the same drunk faces at the table, and then you won’t mind giving the camera to someone on Valentine’s Day, or giving it to your son. Agree that it would be a shame to give a camera that costs a ton of dollars to your offspring so that he, satisfying his curiosity, picks up a hammer and looks - “what’s inside it?” If you become interested in photography, then believe me, you yourself will know exactly which camera is best for you, and the point-and-shoot camera will not go to waste, and will be quite suitable for everyday photography. Remember - a small camera that fits in your pocket, which you can quickly grab and click, can be more useful than a sophisticated professional DSLR, because the moment may not be repeated.
Agree that even a low-quality photo of an interesting moment is always better than no photo at all! In addition, carrying around a case with a DSLR, a set of lenses and other photo accessories is not always convenient and not appropriate everywhere. You don’t need to look at a professional - that’s his job. You don’t need to look up to an advanced amateur - you haven’t become one yet and you don’t know whether you want to become one.
Well, what about it? Wouldn't it be expensive to buy a soap dish in order to also buy a DSLR? I'll try to explain. It is unlikely that a teapot will become an experienced photographer so quickly when in 3-4 months he will already need a new camera. Believe me, they don't grow that fast ( and that’s not what growth is about!). It’s much worse to immediately buy an expensive SLR camera, so that later it gathers dust on the shelf, or, for example, does not suit your tastes. In addition, you need to understand that having a DSLR camera with a good lens does not automatically give anyone interesting and/or beautiful pictures. Just like a soapbox, of course. In this matter, all cameras are absolutely equal!
However, if you are overcome by doubts, there is no need to immediately take the soap dish. Take your time, think! It's best to trust yourself, and this will be much easier if you take the test
It’s time to discuss the choice of camera, but let’s pay tribute to tradition to talk about what makes up its quality (and, accordingly, price). Quality, and hence the price, depends on the size of the matrix. Regular size in millimeters. The larger the size, the better (and more expensive) the camera. Of course, there is also a lens, focal length (zoom), focusing and exposure metering system, presence/absence of manual settings, processor and a lot of other things that make up the price, but everything is so strictly tied to the size of the matrix - including the quality of the photo, that this factor is, apparently, the main one for the digital compact. A DSLR camera has the same price criteria but with a slight adjustment. The lens for it can sometimes cost more than the camera itself along with all the stuffing, including the matrix :)
Camera in price list
What can you find out in the price list?
When you go to the store, no one will upset you with the abundance technical parameters cameras :) As a rule, they will immediately indicate the number of megapixels and zoom. What else? Here is a header from an old price list (November 2007) of the not-so-shabby Computer World store; camera models are taken from the inexpensive price range. So, MP is megapixels, ISO is photosensitivity, about zoom a little later, the rest of the designations are already clear. Let's try to determine which camera is suitable for us based on the characteristics from this (now historical!) table.
| Camera model | CCD MP | zoom optical/digital | ISO | memory type | LCD monitor | TV- out | weight gr. | menu russian | price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon Powershot A-450 | 5 | 3/4 | 80-400 | SD MMC | 2" | + | 165 | + | 3870 |
| Olympus FE-210 | 7.1 | 3/4 | 64-640 | xD | 2.5" | + | 122 | + | 4180 |
| Pentax Optio E30 | 7.1 | 3/4 | 80-400 | SD | 2.4" | + | 137 | - | 4970 |
| Sony DSC-S650 | 7.2 | 3/6 | 100-1000 | MSDuo | 2" | + | 130 | + | 5190 |
| Nikon L10 | 5 | 3/4 | 64-800 | SD | 2" | + | 115 | + | 4390 |
Let's look at a brief summary of the headings in order, and then return to some points in more detail.
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There's no point in continuing.
It seems like a lot has been written, but almost nothing has been said :) Alas, the type of memory card, TV-out, weight, LCD display and the presence of a Russian menu do not affect the quality of pictures and the creative capabilities of the camera (at least they should not!), but it’s more clear to the buyer :) and, of course, the price is clear...
I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that such important indicators of a digital camera as matrix size, lens aperture and focal length are missing. It doesn't even indicate whether the camera has manual settings!
The lack of useful information has already become a certain criterion for deceiving the consumer. It’s clear who they take him for, it’s good that there’s also a price in the price list :) What else? Megapixels are also indicated - from 5 and above... And this is in cheap cameras, more expensive MPs have even more, and now even reaches tens... In 2012, a compact from Sony came out with 20 megapixels (twenty!), the majority cameras have ISO 3200 and even 6400, catching up with the performance of other DSLRs! Modern cameras are packed with electronics, gyroscopes, image stabilizers, they can level the horizon, recognize faces (and even smiles), take high-speed continuous photography, shoot in HDR, RAW, panorama stitching and much more: from useful functions to outlandish excesses...
And when exchanging old equipment for a new one, we choose a much more advanced camera, losing sight of one small detail, which we brush aside like an annoying fly in front of the lens: this has nothing to do with the growth of the photographer’s skill! And what is typical is that the megapixel race continues, but the pictures do not become more interesting :)
The core of the article about choosing a camera was written in 2007, then, rereading it again, I decided to add a header from the price list of the same store (November 2011) for comparison, and now 2011 has also become distant history... The characteristics of the cheapest camera are indicated ( 2300 rub.):
Effective matrix resolution 10 megapixels
Maximum pixel resolution 3648 x 2736
Optical zoom 5x
Digital zoom 4x
Sensitivity (ISO) 80-1600
Aperture 2.7-6.8
SD, SDHC, SDXC memory card
Dimensions/weight 96x60x29 mm /170 g.
Additional information (entry level full automatic).
Progress is obvious, aperture (lens aperture) has appeared! In addition, from additional information It is clear that the camera does not have manual settings, and this is also useful information :) But everything else, alas, is still... There is no focal length, no matrix size, and for some reason the number of pixels is duplicated by the number of megapixels. Additional information for other cameras contained even less meaning, for example: “good price, bright display, autofocus” (yes, they all have a price, bright display and autofocus!), or “compact dimensions for a superzoom camera”, or “powerful a camera for amateurs"... Is this actually a SLR camera or not? Unclear!
Everything is done so that the user is unable to distinguish good product from bad according to the required characteristics. This applies not only to the camera.
Alas, marketing considerations and profit come first, and this suppression of characteristics (or their inflated increase) concerns not only stores, but often even manufacturing companies (!). Therefore, now in a calm and non-shop environment we will figure out what’s what. Let us not allow ourselves to be deceived by sellers, manufacturers, and all those who allow them to work in our country according to their standards. Heads up, fellow photographers!
Camera and photo size
The size of the photo and the detail of the image directly depend on the number of megapixels of the camera.
The good thing about detail is that when you zoom in, you can see more small details: every bump on the skin, every eyelash! With a large number of megapixels, you can crop the image, cutting out interesting fragments from it :)
The purpose of your photo sessions can be two things. Admiring and viewing photos:
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1. on a print (photo paper) 2. on a computer monitor |
1. On the print. How many megapixels should a camera have to print photos? This is something you must determine for yourself (not the seller) - what size you need for complete happiness. It's simple: the more megapixels the camera has, the larger the size of the photo you can print.
The following table shows the most common photo card formats and the number of camera pixels required for printing at 300 and 200 dpi (dots per inch, 300 dpi is the printing standard). And we see that even a 2 megapixel camera is enough to print a regular 10 x 15 cm photo! Think about what you want to overpay for when buying a camera with, say, 20 megapixels.
Are you sure you want to print huge posters?
| Photo size and camera resolution | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| print(cm) | printing at 300 dpi resolution | at a resolution of 200 dpi | ||
| 10 x 15 | 1181 x 1772 2.09 mp | 787 x 1181 0.93 mp | ||
| 13 x 18 | 1535 x 2126 3.26 mp | 1024 x 1417 1.45 mp | ||
| 15 x 20 | 1772 x 2362 4.18 MP | 1181 x 1575 1.86 mp | ||
| 20 x 30 | 2362 x 3543 8.37 mp | 1575 x 2362 3.72 mp | ||
Dear secretaries! It's simple: the standard format of an A4 paper sheet (for comparison): 21 x 29.70 cm (centimeters).
You can learn more about dpi, viewing photos and even pre-press preparation for a photo lab on the page What is dpi
2. viewing on a computer monitor. How many megapixels do you need to view photos on a monitor? To do this, let's take the pixel resolution of a 30-inch monitor - not the tiniest one :) Its resolution can be 2560x1600, so only 5 megapixels are enough: compare with the resolution of an old 5 MP camera 2592x1944. Five to spare! And for the vast majority of smaller monitors, 2-3 will be enough. Here is the resolution of a typical 16:9 Full HD monitor format - 1920x1080 = 2.07 MP. Just two! The redundancy of megapixels of any camera is obvious. But this redundancy (with a large matrix, with good color rendition) can be useful for cropping or cropping in a graphics editor. Last question: are you sure you will master the editor? :)
Well, why not just say: a multi-pixel camera is great, the detail of the image and the size of the photo matter, and these are the notorious megapixels! These are the concepts that are most accessible to an unprepared buyer, and therefore this is how sellers like to explain it - the more megapixels, the better. This pure truth: if the photo is of high quality, with correct color rendition. A blurry face of a lilac hue can have as many pixels as you like, but it won’t make it any happier :) A small compact matrix (costs of compactness!) + inability to shoot results in worse color rendition, blur, and a lot of noise - especially with insufficient lighting.
To have multi-pixels and, at the same time, normal colors, you need a large matrix! SLR cameras have very large matrices (3-5 times larger than on digital compacts!), there are a lot of pixels, and, more importantly, the size of the pixels themselves is also larger, but such cameras are much more expensive. Therefore, there is no need to chase the number of megapixels. Ask the seller (or better yet, look in the product data sheet!) - the size of the matrix is much more important.
Of course, the detail of the photo and the size of the photo matter! And it’s up to you to decide what’s more important. I just wanted to warn beginners - don’t chase megapixels thoughtlessly, without understanding why you need it. You just need to know that now cameras smaller than 8 megapixels are not produced at all, and for printing standard photos 10 x 15 cm, 2 is enough! You should not think that the price and quality of a camera should be expressed in dollars per megapixel! Not only is it important to have a high resolution, not only a large matrix, but also high-quality optics...
Digital camera: choose according to your needs!
There are different categories of users. One girl showed me pictures on her computer taken with an old mobile phone. The pictures were poor (small matrix, tiny lens eye, it’s good if it’s not plastic). A resolution of 0.3 megapixels (it was in 2006) was only sufficient for the size of the phone display, on which, in fact, viewing was intended. The color rendering was terrible; it was impossible to look at faces with red-violet skin without shuddering; + creepy noises. But that's not what this is about. According to the girl, her mobile phone took excellent pictures. I didn’t argue with the lady, I just noticed that such pictures are intended only for viewing on a small screen.
- Nothing like this! - she objected, “I even printed on A4 format and it turned out very well, all the faces are recognizable!”
In her own way, she is, of course, right. First of all, she should be satisfied with the quality, not me. And she’s quite happy with it. But as you can see, I was right when I said that some beginners need the cheapest camera, because for them even a cell phone takes pictures just fine.
Choose a camera according to your needs! Take pictures when purchasing in a store - you may be quite happy with them. There is no need for a beginner to throw out a ton of money for an expensive DSLR until he wants to see the difference. And perhaps he will never feel such a need. On the other hand, if you have read this far and haven’t given up yet, then the need is apparently still there! Of course, it’s up to you to decide whether this is so.
Camera in a mobile phone
Isn't it easier to buy a mobile phone or smartphone? You won’t surprise anyone with 5-8 megapixel phones for a long time. and even more. Here is an example of a photo taken with an old mobile phone made in 2009 for 6,000 rubles, equipped with an average camera with an f/3.2 lens, autofocus, macro photography and a tiny matrix, which, of course, makes terrible noise. But in bright light, the camera takes pictures quite well - enough to fully justify its presence in the phone :) By clicking on the photo you will download the full size of 2048 x 1536 pixels weighing about a megabyte each.
landscape ISO=80 macro ISO=100
If the photos are not enlarged, then everything looks quite presentable, but when enlarged to full size, noise is visible. The background of the second photo was especially damaged. We must pay tribute - the shooting was not carried out in the brightest lighting.
In any case, the camera of a modern smartphone has gone beyond the small screen of an old mobile phone (for which, in fact, it was originally intended). And it has become quite obvious that smartphones have grown in this regard in recent years. Many are equipped with pretty good cameras and a variety of shooting modes. Their photo quality is almost not inferior to cheap point-and-shoot cameras, and in good lighting even to SLR cameras (it will be inferior in difficult conditions and with special quality requirements).
You can buy smartphones for the purpose of everyday photography if you do not have great criteria for the quality of photographs, but if you want to get high-quality images in more difficult lighting, or have other requirements, then this is the question posed in this article. Therefore, it’s better to return to choosing a camera rather than a smartphone :)
Digital camera: zoom and focal length
Focal length is (roughly) the distance from the middle of the lens to the focus point. It is designated, for example, as follows: 5.8-24 This means that the focal length can vary from 5.8 mm at the short end (wide-angle lens position) to 24 mm at the long end (telephoto). In the store sometimes (not always, not everywhere) they indicate the so-called “equivalent focal length”, also known as “EFF”, also known as “35 mm equivalent”, simply “35 mm”, and also known as -
So, focal length.
This is a very important indicator of the camera lens, but in the store they like to indicate the notorious “zoom” instead - for example, in our case, zoom x 4 (fourfold zoom). What is it and where does the number 4 come from? A zoom is a lens with a variable focal length. It is also called the scary words “zoom lens”, “vario lens” - and all this is intended to confuse a beginner, no less :) But there is no need to be afraid, it’s all the same thing: the lens has a variable focal length! Or, in short - zoom.
The abundance of terms indicates a complete lack of standards in designations (of cameras, computers, and everything else), and this is really confusing. And if, for example, for Pentax DSLRs, a professional series lens is designated with an asterisk - * (star series!), then Sony has a similar one marked with the letter G, Canon has an L, and Nikon generally does not have a clear division into professional lenses and not so much! And Sigma and Tamron, which produce optics for cameras from different manufacturers, designate such lenses EX and SP, respectively... In general, while companies are terribly proud of their symbols, the user is forced to search all available photo sources for the decoding of the mysterious designations. In the meantime, producers didn’t agree on a useful task (everyone, apparently, is a proud man who punches for his letters!), useful information can be found on the Lens Marking page. This is for those whose choice is a DSLR camera. The marking of compact cameras is simpler; they usually indicate only the focal length and aperture ratio.
Let's return to our lens, which has a focal length of 5.8-24. In this case, the long end of the focal length (24 mm) will be approximately 4 times larger than the short end (5.8 mm). When asked what this means, the seller will always answer - the camera provides a 4x magnification, and the larger the zoom, the better. Is it so? Let's try to figure it out.
What does zoom give us? Approaching the subject of shooting. Simply put, we are lazy, we enlarge the object, instead of walking towards it with our feet :) At the same time, the lens moves forward, the focal length increases. When it is at its maximum, we have the terms “telephoto”, “long focus”, “at the long end” and other non-offensive expressions :)
The zoom is very convenient, but in the minus (well, there is no plus without a minus!) At the long end of the zoom, the aperture almost always drops. Therefore, one small piece of advice: do not chase a large 10-20-30x zoom if you are not going to buy a tripod, and in bad light without a tripod you will more often get blurry pictures and waste money! Choose a 3-4x zoom, or try shooting at a long zoom right in the store without a tripod or flash.
By the way, zoom and magnification are not exactly the same thing! All that relates to magnification is a focal length over 50 mm (in 35 mm format), which corresponds to the angle of view of the human eye. For example, the lens has a focal length of 35-105 mm. Zoom = 3 (105/35), but the actual magnification will be 105/50=2.1, i.e. 2.1 times more, and not 3 times, as the seller will assure you. In general, ideally there would be not a zoom, but a prime camera (or a lens for a camera) with a fixed (constant) focal length, but how sometimes you want to bring the subject of shooting closer to you!
What other information, besides magnification (and this is not entirely half-true :-), does the word zoom convey? None - both for DSLR lenses and for the built-in optics of compact cameras.
For example, 3x zoom. This doesn't say anything. Here is a camera (or rather a lens for it) with a focal length of 18-55 mm, this is a 3x zoom (55/18 = 3).
The lens with a focal length of 70-210 mm also has a 3x zoom (210/70=3). However, the first one is a wide-angle lens. Usually this lens is used to shoot landscapes - at a wide angle it will fit more :) The second is a long-focus lens for completely different types of shooting, for example, for portraits, or photo hunting.
And both have 3x zoom!
In short, these are completely different lenses for completely different tasks. The word zoom was invented by devilishly inventive marketers in order to avoid explaining concepts to the buyer for a long time and quickly persuade him to buy. For example, to say - a large zoom is good - it magnifies more! 10x zoom is more than 3x! A satisfied customer takes the camera. It is done:)
Therefore, when buying, pay attention not to the zoom, but to the focal length, otherwise you will buy a camera that will not suit your creative inclinations at all.
This applies to optical zoom, I won’t talk in detail about digital zoom, it’s a waste of time - you’ll still have time to ruin your photos with such a zoom on your computer, and it’s completely free :), and you’ll understand everything yourself by enlarging the picture many times. On the camera, digital zoom should be turned off immediately and used only for viewing, but not for shooting. However, as you noticed, in the price list above, digital zoom is indicated as a fraction after optical zoom. Digital zoom is the most important marketing indicator; it is used almost without fail in the price lists of many stores and manufacturers’ websites. They often indicate the product of the optical zoom to the digital zoom - what marketers will come up with to mislead the buyer with big inflated numbers!
Therefore, do not pay any attention to these “works of art”. The only shame is that huge amounts of money are spent on maintaining marketing departments and advertising - in the end it turns out that they are investing in God knows what, but not in product quality. As a result, prices for goods rise, quality does not, and on a national scale, advertising and PR cause irreparable damage to society, and someday people will either reject this stench, or... go wild and turn into idiots. Now society, with the help of television and other media, is moving along the second path by leaps and bounds. Money, effort and resources are invested not in improving the quality of the product, but in advertising education of such an audience that will buy everything that is imposed on it. In other words, it’s not a product for the client, but... preparing the client “for the product.” It's not as funny and harmless as it seems. But in fact it is criminal (yes, fraud on an especially large scale). But we will not remake society; now our task is more modest, but no less noble - not to let ourselves be confused when buying!
Let's return to focal length. All camera lenses are divided, depending on the focal length, into wide-angle, standard, telephoto and universal. A universal one can be both a wide-angle and a telephoto at the same time. All this is quite conventional, a landscape can be shot with a telephoto lens, but more often a wide-angle lens (or a wide-angle position of a compact lens) is used for landscapes, so you need to have a general idea. Even when buying a soap dish, it’s a good idea to ask what kind of lens it is, what aperture ratio? is there any wide angle? how wide is it? :)
You can see a table of dividing lenses by focal length, types of photography and angles of view of lenses in the article about EGF. Anyone who missed the link above can check it out again below: :)
Then don’t forget to come back - we still haven’t learned how to choose a camera. But first you should familiarize yourself with other concepts, otherwise making a decision will be even more difficult. The camera will not run away from you! This tool is quite complex and has many characteristics, which is why the article is long.
Digital camera: rotating screen
I would like to say a few words about such convenience as a rotating screen, which some digital compacts and SLR cameras have. The convenience is far from free (and what in our world is given for free, except cheese in a famous place?) but it is worth it. There are some moments that are very difficult (if not impossible) to film without a rotating screen. This is shooting in hard-to-reach places and/or from an awkward position. Even when shooting a portrait from a tripod, it is more convenient to point the camera without touching the viewfinder eye each time - and thereby without interrupting contact with the subject. The screen is very convenient (and sometimes even indispensable) for macro photography, when you don’t have to lie down on the ground to aim at some spider bug. In addition, the compact screen always has more accurate framing than its viewfinder, even if the screen is not rotatable.
Some DSLR cameras, as mentioned, also have a Live View screen, incl. and rotary. Why does a DSLR need Live View when it has a more accurate viewfinder than the compact? Firstly, I listed the situations above, and secondly, the screen holds more information than the viewfinder, which is sometimes more convenient. It is advisable to view through the eyepiece, and frame using the screen when this is difficult with the viewfinder and shooting speed is not needed.
The world's first SLR camera that supports LCD viewing was released in 2006 (Olympus E-330), and now most SLR cameras are equipped with Live View displays. Of the rotating screens, some can be rotated in one plane, some in several planes. It’s interesting that all soap dishes and digital compacts (unlike DSLRs) much earlier had a screen with a preview, incl. and rotary.
Digital camera: image stabilizer
Digital cameras are increasingly using image stabilizer, which strives to make the image on the matrix still when the camera shakes in the hands of the photographer. This thing is especially effective at shutter speeds of 1/30-1/60 sec., and/or when shooting at a long focus - the photo will not be blurry!
In photographic equipment, 2 types of stabilization are used: optical (in the lens) or matrix (in the camera itself). By tracking the movement of the camera in space, the stabilizer shifts the optical element of the lens (in the first case), in the second, on the contrary, the matrix itself shifts. Class! - the hands are shaking and shaking, but there is no movement, because the picture is motionless relative to the matrix :)
In fact, everything is not so chocolatey, the stabilizer only reduces the vibrations of the camera (tremor of the photographer’s hands!), and does not dampen them completely, since it itself creates small vibrations: gyroscopes work, electromagnets constantly shift the matrix left-right/up-down (or shifting the block lenses in the lens.) The stabilizer can be used at shutter speeds of 1/4-1/500 sec., but beyond these limits it is best to turn it off:
1. self-oscillations can lead to slight blurring, even if not always noticeable.
2. The battery drains quite a lot.
When using a tripod, it’s clear to turn it off, and a shutter speed shorter than 1/500 will handle fluctuations just fine!
Matrix shift has its advantages (and, of course, disadvantages) of stabilization. Disadvantages also appear at long focus - the amplitude of image oscillations relative to the matrix is too high here and therefore the matrix simply does not have time to move behind the image in time... On the other hand, all lenses will be stabilized, and the method itself does not require the presence of an additional optical element in the lens, which slightly reduces the aperture of the latter; this occurs when using a system with optical stabilization (Canon, Nikon). But optical works better on long-focus lenses.
Of course, it is not superfluous to have a stabilizer, but it will not completely solve the problems. The photographer will always struggle with movement and darkness: such is his fate... There is also digital stabilization: the processor moves the image itself, but this is no longer the case - the processor is forced to reserve some of the pixels for image shifting and they do not participate in image formation.
In short, whatever one may say, there is no happiness in life! But if the stabilizer allows you to shorten the shutter speed by 3-4 positions, then this is not bad at all. Today, almost all cameras are equipped with a stabilizer of one class or another, so just find out which one your camera is equipped with.
Digital camera: lens and aperture
— How strange, why is so little said about the lens aperture? - the experienced amateur will exclaim and he will be right. Aperture is the value of the maximum open aperture at the short end of the focal length. Isn't that too strong and abstruse? Okay, let's put it simply:
It's just a hole in the lens that allows light to pass through - the bigger the better! :)
The aperture blades can narrow this hole, they can open it, and the larger the hole (sorry, lens aperture!), the more the aperture can open - the more possibilities for controlling light, especially when shooting at short shutter speeds or long zooms. Just one small "but". An increase in lens aperture sharply leads not only to an increase in the price of the camera, but also to an increase in its dimensions, and in this case, a digital compact and a point-and-shoot camera cease to be compact, which does not correspond to their definition. Therefore, on cameras of this type, the lens aperture is approximately the same - it’s good if 2.8 is at the short end of the zoom and does not drop too much at the maximum (typical value is 4.8). It’s very bad if the difference in aperture between these zoom values is large - this is where a large zoom becomes especially useless, and (what’s most offensive!), far from free. If you want to spend money, it’s better to pay attention to compacts with a larger matrix, or immediately take a closer look at a DSLR. But no matter how much money you are going to spend, remember: there is no camera with a large matrix, large zoom, large aperture ratio at all ends of the zoom, and at the same time compact and inexpensive! They don't even promise that in advertising...
By the way, some digital compacts have fairly fast lenses, faster than even kit DSLR lenses (a kit is a standard lens supplied with the camera). It has a typical value of 3.5-5.6 - and this is worse than the 2.8-4.8 of many digital compacts. However, a DSLR camera, even with a whale, will shoot in dimly lit places better than a compact one - due to the better ISO on a larger matrix. I'm not even talking about interchangeable optics, for example, expensive high-aperture f/1.4 lenses.
Read more about lenses for SLR cameras here:
lenses
As for the quality of optics and everything else, here you will have to completely trust the manufacturer. It is clear that even a specialist will not determine the quality of the lenses, the quality of the lens assembly, electronics and mechanics without meticulous testing in laboratory conditions. Therefore, unfortunately, there can be only one recommendation on how to choose a camera and lens - you should choose a well-known manufacturer. Unfortunately - because you have to pay for it: 20 percent for quality, and 80 percent for the brand name and the degree of its promotion :)
Digital camera: list of famous manufacturers
| Company | Foundation year | A country | Optics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Canon | 1937 | Japan | its |
| Nikon | 1917 | Japan | its |
| Olympus | 1919 | Japan | its |
| Pentax | 1919 | Japan | its |
| Sony | 1946 | Japan | own/Zeiss |
Oddly enough, all Japanese. It’s a shame that in Russia they don’t want to make cameras (as well as everything else: from computers, to socks and toilet bowls)... The St. Petersburg company LOMO, well-known in the USSR, which produced good cameras and first-class optics, now takes only defense orders - optics for weapon sights, and microscopes - anything, but not consumer goods. Other Russian enterprises suffered the same sad fate. Cameras have sunk into oblivion Zenit, FED, Kyiv, Zorkiy and legendary for the mass buyer Change 8m, Lomo and many others. On the LOMO website they proudly wrote that they had found the courage to abandon the production of unpromising products... In light of the fact that Nikon has been producing similar products for many years, has its own glass factories, unique developments in the field of glass clearing, production of lenses and cameras, LOMO's "courageous" decision looks like a complete failure in the fight for this part of the market.
Actually, LOMO’s fault here is secondary. The entire country was faced with the choice of destroying its own production in order to sell foreign products.
Digital Camera: Taking Good Photography
What else should you pay attention to when choosing a camera? Price, manufacturer, matrix, lens aperture, focal length (zoom), megapixels, image stabilizer, rotating screen, video recording, memory card, ... Stop! All this, of course, is interesting (especially the price!), but for those who want to improve, it’s a good idea to take a closer look at the availability of manual settings. And lastly: first of all, you should be satisfied with the quality of the photo itself. This is the main thing! Many people think that by buying a more expensive camera they will improve the quality of their pictures. Manufacturers’ advertisements for the next new camera also encourage this: “Unsurpassed quality!”, “Even greater picture quality!” etc. New models come out every year (or even more often) and all this provokes the user to constantly change photographic equipment. But alas, this does not lead to interesting photos!
If you are satisfied with your previous camera, there is a good reason not to make a purchase. Don't rush to buy a new camera just because it's new!
In fact, the developers never came up with anything better (in terms of the technical quality of the image) than an old gimbal camera with sliding bellows (as in the photo on the left). Prints from photographic plates of 9 x 12 or 18 x 24 cm (centimeters!) even today are of the highest quality in terms of detail and color rendition. Exceptionally high resolution and tonal transitions in large poster photographs create an immersive effect. And now an expensive digital SLR with a “large matrix” of 36 x 24 mm (millimeters!) looks very modest, and a 23 x 15 mm SLR is completely sad. How can it compare in terms of photo quality with large (or even medium) format! Yes, yes, everything is learned by comparison...
You must, of course, understand that this only differs when printing large posters. And I don’t encourage you to look for such cameras from junk dealers for $100 (or new medium format digital cameras - for very, very big money in the store). The highest quality in large sizes is, of course, good, but... We live in a modern world where mobility is important, and the camera can easily be carried in a backpack on your back, on your shoulder, or even in a shirt pocket. Even professional reporters shoot with 35mm digital SLRs. The speed of shooting and ease of use are now valued no less than the quality of the photograph itself, but this quality should suit you! Therefore, when you buy a camera, first of all look at how good the picture is (it’s better to look at it on a large computer monitor), and only then finally decide whether to buy the camera.
How to choose a camera in a store.
To begin with, you should choose a decent store :) This corresponds to a specialized salon for the sale of photographic equipment (preferably an official distributor from the manufacturer), there should be few buyers and many sellers, the staff is qualified and attentive, the choice is huge, and the prices are affordable. Okay, okay, I was joking... But you should at least strive for the best!
To choose a camera in a store you need to do 2 things.
1. find the store’s website on the Internet, preferably the store is in your region.
2. choose a camera according to the characteristics and price you need.
If you don’t know what characteristics will suit you, read this page again :)
So, you can drive up to the store, call a courier to your home, or order your purchase by delivery (if provided). I can’t comment on the last option; let’s consider buying a camera directly in the store. You can do the same with the courier!
Be sure to take a few test shots right at the counter. What's good digital camera Unlike film, I already said - you immediately see the result!
A good store, as a rule, will satisfy the request to look at photographs on a large monitor (it is better to come with your laptop), enlarge them, and evaluate the details. Sometimes they let you shoot a test target to check the focus of the SLR camera lens. If there are few people in the store, the sellers are free, and they refuse to even turn on the camera (like the battery is low, there are no batteries, etc., etc.), then this is a bad store. If there are a lot of people, the seller is running around, fussing, and doesn’t have enough time for everyone - most likely, this is also a bad store :)
The camera should be brought to you in a package, and not taken from the display case. The packaging must be without mechanical damage, the inscriptions are readable, the picture is clear. Examine the camera. There should be no scratches, cracks or abrasions on it. When you turn it on, pay attention to the number of frames captured. If the number is greater than zero, and you weren’t the one taking the photo, then the camera has already been used. It will help if the seller forgets to format the memory card... Sellers are people too, nothing human is alien to them :)
Carefully inspect the front lens of the lens (and if it is removable, then the back one). To do this, it is better to take a microscope and a magnifying glass with you; you should not be shy. If abrasions, scratches, fingerprints, even specks of dust are visible on the lens, it is better to ask the seller to replace the lens (or the camera along with the lens). Or politely hand it back to the courier: “goodbye, sir.” There is no point in starting your purchase by cleaning your optics.
Further. When the purchased camera is packed, check the contents. Of course, it can be different, but the kit, as a rule, includes the camera itself, a battery (or batteries), a USB cord, a charger, a shoulder strap, instructions, a software disc, a branded warranty card and a bunch of unnecessary advertising papers. Look at everything carefully.
You can throw away the advertising junk, but it’s better to check that the warranty card is filled out correctly. There should be a model name, store stamp, date of sale, seller's signature and serial number of the product. Find out at what address warranty service is performed, who is responsible for the warranty - the store or the manufacturer. By the way, it is better to study the terms of the guarantee before paying. When leaving the store, don’t forget to take your receipt, and most importantly, your camera!
Care when purchasing will save you from possible troubles.
And the troubles may be as follows.
The consumer does NOT have the right to return the camera he purchased. of proper quality within 14 days from the date of purchase.
Photographic equipment is a “technically complex household product for which warranty periods are established,” and therefore cannot be returned or exchanged for a similar product, since it is subject to the law on the protection of consumer rights (as amended by RF Government Decrees dated October 20, 1998 No. 1222, dated 02/06/2002 N 81) on non-food products of good quality that cannot be returned or exchanged for a similar product.
If you find defects in the purchased camera during the warranty period, then such product is first sent to the company's Service Center to obtain an opinion on the condition of the product. If the diagnostics reveal a manufacturing defect, then you have the right to refuse the purchase and demand a refund of the amount paid, or make a demand for replacement with photographic equipment of the same model, or with the same product of a different model, but with a recalculation of the purchase price. What if it doesn’t show up? :-)
You can find out your consumer rights if defects are found in a product.
For clarification, interpretation (and even more so enforcement!) of current laws, please do not contact me, I am not a lawyer or a prosecutor :-)
Camera - care and storage
A camera today is a precise optical-mechanical device, stuffed with electronics without shame or conscience.
Therefore, treat it with care and kindness, keep it clean, protect it from shock, dust, dampness and sudden temperature changes. Store it in a closed bag or case, making sure to cover the lens with a cap.
You can learn more about storing, cleaning and caring for your camera on the page Cleaning your camera.
Good choice and good photos everyone!
If you are overwhelmed by thoughts about this, then I will say right away that buying a digital camera most likely will not disappoint you, because... This is a useful, necessary and very convenient thing. Moreover, this technique has now become quite accessible, because when digital cameras first appeared, it was almost impossible to purchase them due to incredible prices.
Purpose of purchase
Why do you need a camera? At first glance, a trivial question, but in reality a lot depends on the answers to it. Actually, the choice of camera is based on what purposes will be fulfilled by the purchased photographic equipment.I dare to suggest that in 90% of cases, or even more, a camera is purchased for “household” needs. What does this mean? This means that photographs with such a device will be taken mainly at home, at work, at all kinds of holidays and events. And here the ordinary “soap box” is enough for your eyes. If you want to take up photography at more than an amateur level, if you often go on tours, it is quite possible that you will already need a more serious device.
What is the difference between a point-and-shoot device and a more serious device?
It’s not for nothing that the “soap dish” got its name from a household item - it resembles the item of the same name in shape and size. But for all its comfort, it has modest capabilities. The “large” device has a classic layout; it is larger, usually heavier, but more functional.
But first things first.
Of course, in most cases, the decisive role is played by the purchase budget, in other words, the amount of money on hand. This reduces the choice. Moreover, the smaller the budget, the easier it is to choose, because... the number of models eligible for the required amount is reduced.
Next, let’s start from what you need the camera for. If, as mentioned above, only for “everyday” photography, then a “point-and-shoot” will be just right. At the same time, you will save a considerable amount of money and get a completely adequate and compact device. Compactness is a very convenient property. This camera is easy to carry, it fits everywhere and does not weigh down much during transportation.
Of course, it does not shine with high quality, but in most cases its functions and quality are quite sufficient for everyday shooting. By the way, when choosing a digital “soap box,” MirSovetov advises not to succumb to the marketing pitch and fall into euphoria from the number of megapixels. There can be as many of them as you like! The number of megapixels determines the resolution CCD matrices(charge-coupled device), i.e. sensitive element of the camera (similar to film). Whereas the lens is still decisive for the camera. And demanding excellent parameters from a point-and-shoot lens is, to say the least, stupid. Because, at best, a three-lens lens with such a small lens diameter cannot provide high quality. And the matrix itself, even with the same number of megapixels, on a point-and-shoot camera is significantly inferior in parameters to its “bigger brothers.”
If you have seriously decided to take up photography and plan to go on frequent vacation trips, then a “big” camera will not hurt you. Its bulkiness, heaviness and high price are compensated by high image quality and greater shooting capabilities.
How does quality affect in general? If you only print photos in 10*15 format, you won't notice the differences. But when printing in format 15*22 or more, the difference will be noticeable quite clearly. This includes a deterioration in sharpness (clarity) and the appearance of noise (artifacts in the form of colored dots), and some “blurring” of the image in point-and-shoot images.
It also happens that it is more convenient to have two digital cameras - a “large” one and a “point-and-shoot”. Then your possibilities are almost limitless. I repeat: the compactness and mobility of a point-and-shoot device can be irreplaceable.
Going to the store
Okay, you have decided on the choice of the “weight category” of the camera. What's next? And then you can safely go to the store. It comes down to this: which store? Photographic equipment is sold by all and sundry - cellular communication kiosks, electronics supermarkets (and not only), and specialized stores. It would be more correct to bypass many such points. Compare assortment and prices. But preference should still be given to the latter - specialized stores. Why? Here you go, read it!As you know, price still does not solve all problems, and if you find the same product cheaper, do not rush to rejoice. There may be various options here. Either the store has a large turnover of goods and a proven reputation, or they are trying to deceive you by luring you in with low prices. Deception can be different. Either this is a fly-by-night company, or the product is, simply put, defective or outdated. Either it was imported illegally, etc. and so on. Or it may happen that the guarantee for the product in such unfortunate companies is very conditional and if something happens (God forbid), you will not achieve anything. And if the company goes bust, then...
But you shouldn’t ignore the warranty in pursuit of a low price for such complex equipment. Repairs at your own expense can cost a hefty sum.
So, buy a digital camera only in reputable stores! What else is the advantage of specialized stores? The fact is that there is much more choice there and they will advise you there much better than “universal” supermarket sellers. And the prices, as a rule, are quite acceptable, because... The company deals with a narrow range of products.
How to choose a digital camera
There are a lot of varieties of digital cameras from different manufacturers on the shelves. But, despite this, the range of capabilities provided is approximately the same for all cameras of the same “weight” category. Thus, it cannot be said that the NIKON point-and-shoot camera is significantly better than the SAMSUNG one. They are about the same level, and the choice of brand is up to your taste. Moreover, almost all household (there are also professional) “soap boxes” are produced in the Middle Kingdom, i.e. in China. But, if you decide to buy a more serious device, then it is better to choose well-known and trusted brands: NIKON (makes only cameras, which is good); CANON, OLYMPUS, SONY, Panasonic, etc. Some “large” devices, for example, SONY R-1, can still be found in Japan, which guarantees high quality.But how to determine which one to take? To do this, let's come closer to the window and read the price tags. By the way, it won’t hurt you to take a small notebook and pencil with you - this will make it easier to compare in different stores.
And what do they write there? But about the same thing. It is not difficult to guess that the title indicates the name and type (model) of the camera. This is practically of no interest to you. Unless you write down the model you like, and then, for example, look on the Internet for a more detailed description and reviews.
Sometimes it happens that the price comes next - that’s all for it. This is not very good, because... reduces the choice and speaks of the company’s disdainful attitude towards the buyer. You won’t ask the seller about all the models you like at the price - this will take a lot of time. It is better to avoid purchasing in such cases.
But, if the price tag nevertheless contains a brief description, then, as a rule, you can find the following information on it.
Serves to obtain a sharp image on the matrix. Contains the name, type (model), as well as the range of focal lengths (if it is a zoom lens) or a specific value otherwise. The range of aperture values for zoom lenses is also indicated, because The aperture ratio changes depending on the focal length. 
The lens is the most expensive part of the device and is equally complex, so MirSovetov will look at this device in more detail in the article “Choosing a lens for a camera.”
Matrix
Designed to convert an optical image projected onto it by a lens into a digital signal.
Its type is sometimes indicated here. CCD (CCD) is a charge-coupled device. It is an obsolete type, where the signal is read similarly to a cathode ray tube (CRT) - sequentially from left to right and from top to bottom. The sensitive elements are silicon photodiodes. Naturally, the parameters are far from ideal. Soap dishes are equipped with exactly this type of matrix.
CMOS (CMOS, silicon metal oxide semiconductor) is an analogue of your computer's RAM, where reading can occur from anywhere, you just need to set the column number and row number. Each pixel here has a readout amplifier. The parameters of such matrices are significantly superior to the above type. They are equipped with “older” models.
Live-MOS is based on MOS (metal oxide semiconductor), has fewer connections per pixel and requires less supply voltage, which reduces power consumption and heat generation. This configuration makes it possible to obtain a more “live” image without overheating and increased noise levels characteristic of the above types of matrices.
Next comes the actual resolution in MPix (megapixels), and sometimes the geometric size is also written. By the way, the larger the geometric size with an equal number of MPix, the better. Naturally, as the number of megapixels increases, the quality will increase (with the previously stated caveat).
Of course, if the choice fell on a non-professional (or not the most expensive household) “soap box”, then you will have to be content with a CCD matrix. But this is not a big problem, because... She will perform her duties quite properly. And it may even happen that you do not feel its shortcomings. If you choose a “large” device, then give preference to a CMOS matrix.
As for the number of megapixels, quite passable pictures can be obtained with their number of 5 or more. Otherwise, the shooting will be of a technical nature, because it will not allow printing photos larger than 10*15 (the quality will be very mediocre).
Viewfinder
The viewfinder is a system for selecting the subject(s) to be photographed. And despite all the complexity of the technology, there are only four types: LCD display (liquid crystal display - LCD); electronic EVF (electronic view-finder), optical parallax and mirror viewfinders. The type of viewfinder does not directly affect the quality of the image, but, nevertheless, its importance in the process of taking good photos big enough. In modern cameras, almost all models have an LCD display; it can be either alone or in combination with other types: LCD+EVF and LCD+optical.
So, nowadays almost all digital cameras are equipped with LCD. This solution has its pros and cons. The display requires backlighting, without which it will work, but the user will not be able to see anything. That's why LED lighting is used. If the backlight is weak, the display will “blind” in intense ambient light. More expensive devices have displays with more powerful backlighting and they allow you to see the picture on them in almost any external lighting (even in the sun). But this causes their high energy consumption. Of course, serious devices have the ability to adjust the backlight brightness, which is very nice. Typically this is indicated as: “Display: Dark; Normal; Bright".
Please note that there are fixed (built-in) displays, and there are also movable ones. The latter allow you to change their position, which is convenient when shooting at an angle or from above (from below) and to reduce the level of noise (interference).
There is a standard range of display diagonal sizes: 1.5"; 1.8"; 2.0"; 2.5". It would seem that the larger the size, the better. But this statement is only partly true. In fact, you can see better on a larger display; its resolution is usually higher, but power consumption is also higher. Although displays smaller than 1.8" should not be taken into account, since it will be problematic to see anything on such a display. In addition, if you are a more advanced photographer, then using such a display will be difficult.
An EVF viewfinder is suitable for this purpose. This is an analogue of the viewfinder of a regular “DSLR” (more on this below), only there is neither a pentaprism nor a mirror, but the meaning remains the same. In such a viewfinder, the eye is placed on a special eyepiece window, where only the display is visible. 
It is devoid of “dazzle” and will always be visible. Another advantage of the EVF is that it has a much smaller display than the display on the back of the case, and the magnification is due to the optical viewfinder system, equipped with a camera vision correction system. The small display size leads to significant reductions in power consumption and noise.
But these two types of viewfinders have the same drawback - display inertia. This is due to the fact that the information on the display cannot be updated instantly. Moreover, it must still be read from the matrix.
Optical viewfinders do not have these disadvantages, because they do not have a power supply at all. Parallax viewfinder - if you remember the Smena camera or a regular film point-and-shoot camera, then this is the viewfinder we mean. It is simple and reliable, but it also has disadvantages. Firstly, such a viewfinder “cuts off” 20% of your field of view (i.e., the actual frame will be 20% larger). This way something will come out of view when you shoot and appear on the finished print. Secondly, it does not allow you to assess the correctness of focusing.
Well, now we come to what does “DSLR” mean? This is a system for implementing a viewfinder through a complex system consisting of eyepieces, a pentaprism (pentagonal prism), a motorized mirror and the lens itself. The image created by the lens is transmitted through these elements to the viewfinder eyepiece. To prevent the mirror from interfering (it obscures the matrix or film), the drive raises it during exposure (shutter release), which generates a characteristic shutter sound. If you read carefully, you saw the word “matrix” there. It would seem that there was a typo. No, there are also digital DSLRs, but they are more expensive because... the mechanism becomes more complicated.
Pros: no viewfinder power consumption or interference; lack of inertia (for professionals this is a decisive moment); real display (without distortion).
But there are also disadvantages: the complexity of the design and its increase in cost; decreased reliability; the camera reacts to the clap of the mirror (the body twitches a little in the vertical direction).
It should be noted that one of the significant advantages of SLR cameras is the ability to change optics, but MirSovetov will also pay special attention to this issue in the article devoted to lenses.
Shooting modes
If you have used a film camera, then I think you are familiar with them. 
As a rule, the “Auto” mode is present everywhere - fully automatic shooting, as well as the “Sports”, “Portrait”, “Landscape”, etc. modes. The purpose of these modes is clear, while there is, for example, a shooting mode with aperture priority. How to use them will be described in one of the following articles.
These are built-in or removable (replaceable) devices for recording and storing footage. As you probably guessed, this is digital “film”. Most digital cameras have the simplest memory - built-in. It is usually 32 MB in size, which significantly limits your capabilities, because... with high quality, the number of recorded photos will be extremely small, and the speed of its operation is far from perfect. Therefore, it is better to choose a device with the ability to use removable storage media. Then you can, having N-number of memory cards in stock, shoot as much as you like. This is extremely important on long trips. Just when purchasing additional cards, please note that they are of different standards. Consult with the seller which one is suitable for this device (expensive cameras support several cards of different standards at the same time, digital point-and-shoot cameras usually support only one). 
The most common: SD (one of the most affordable today); CardFlash; Memory Stick Duo. How to choose a memory card is the topic of a separate article.
Nutrition
It goes without saying that a digital camera, unlike grandfather’s ZENIT, requires power. Various power sources are used for this purpose.
Most inexpensive digital cameras are powered by two AA batteries, commonly called AA batteries. It seems not so expensive only at first glance. The fact is that a digital camera “eats” quite a lot, much more than a similar film camera. And you will have to worry about buying new batteries quite often.
More serious devices use batteries. Currently, only Li-ion (lithium-ion) cells are used. Without going into details, I will say that this type of battery can be recharged at any time, because There is no “memory effect”, which forced you to wait for a full discharge. However, the batteries must be fully charged. 
It is extremely convenient to use batteries, because there is no need for frequent trips to the store to buy batteries or manipulations with their installation. However, it requires a fairly long charge, which makes the device unusable while charging. In addition, as the battery ages and needs to be replaced, you will be quite surprised at its price. Especially if you like a device from a well-known brand. Plus, as the battery ages, its capacity decreases, which reduces the operating time of the device.
If the first drawback can be avoided by purchasing a second battery, then the second issue is up to you to decide. Perhaps, when the battery fails, the device itself will fail, or you will no longer like it, and you will want to buy a new one - who knows. But I would choose one with a battery, although the device itself would then cost more.
Completeness
It wouldn't hurt to inquire about the completeness. Although in most cases, for digital point-and-shoot cameras, this means the presence of: packaging (containers), the device itself, a battery, if this particular type of power is used, then also a charger, a USB cable for connecting to a PC. Amateur devices may also include a video cable, because have a video recording function. But you shouldn’t have high hopes in this regard, because... You will not receive a video of good quality and acceptable duration.
And the list of advantages and advantages of the camera ends on the price tag, of course, with the price. Although it would have been more logical to write it at the beginning, after the name.
Finally, after running around all the stores, getting the necessary information (prices and assortment), and messing up your notebook with notes, you found what you needed. Here it is, the digital camera of your dreams! But the choice doesn't end there yet.
Let's take a test drive
I think that as a result of a difficult choice, you have your eye on not one model, but at least two. Therefore, next you will have intimate conversations with the seller. And where to go, there is no turning back! Insistently ask the seller to show all the models you like, preferably in a complete set, because... with the same capabilities, quality and price, some exhibit may have a more luxurious package. But before watching, I want to give you some useful advice: never take equipment from the display case, or from your hands! Here, as they say, God protects the careful. One awkward move and the device is already on the floor. Why do you need extra problems?When comparing different models, evaluate their ergonomics, how comfortable they are in your hands, how conveniently located the controls are, how clearly they operate. Moreover, everything is individual. What is comfortable for one person may seem inconvenient for you.
Try to take pictures and then analyze whether it suits you for the price. Based on this, you can decide which device of the ones you like is most suitable for you. Or you can look at a more expensive copy. Suddenly you decide that this is exactly what you need, and it’s better not to buy anything for now, but to save. Or maybe, on the contrary, you will understand that you are quite satisfied with more a budget option and there is no need to pay more.
Please note that more popular brands with equal opportunities are more expensive, but it’s up to you to decide. It should be noted that these brands, as a rule, value their reputation and it may turn out that the quality of their products is higher.
In addition, you need to look at where the device is made. I am more than sure that it will be written “Made in Nenash”, but preference should be given to Japanese (Made in Japan) works, although there are few of them, and none at all among the “soap boxes”.
The quality of products from the Middle Kingdom is unstable, like that of domestic goods, and leaves much to be desired; failures occur quite often. I wouldn’t buy domestic photographic equipment: it has poor ergonomics, equally bad plastic and other materials (including lenses), modest functionality and unpredictable quality. Then we move on to the most interesting part - turn it on. Here the seller can talk as much as he likes, saying that there are no batteries, or the battery is dead, but that’s his problem. The battery can be “energized” in 2-3 minutes of recharging, this is enough for testing. If you need batteries, they are usually available in such stores. They cannot refuse you to buy them. So MirSovetov recommends insisting on the inclusion check, this will save you from unnecessary problems.
After switching on, check that it operates correctly. Shoot in Auto mode. Look, at least on the display, at the result. When viewing, pay attention to the frame (file) number (name). He should be with big amount zeros first. If the number is large, then they have already been filmed, because the number shows how many frames were captured.
Oh yes, I forgot! Before turning it on, look at the display. It should be smooth, clean (no defects) and black. If it is mobile, then check how it moves. Then take a closer look while it's on. When viewed directly, the picture should be clear, contrasty and in the correct color scheme. The new display should be lit all over, i.e. have no dead pixels. Now close the lens cap (if you have one) or cover it tightly (but without touching the lens) with your palm. The display will turn dark. See if there are any pixels that are not going out; they look like colored dots. All controls must turn on and off clearly, both when acted upon slowly and uncertainly, and when acted upon sharply and confidently. They should not hang out, but they should not jam either. As a rule, when switching them, a characteristic click should be clearly audible.
When shooting, check whether the flash fires. If you have chosen an “older” model, then most likely there is a “frog” flash, which should pop out freely and with a click, and most importantly, absolutely by itself. It is removed back manually. She must do this clearly, without unnecessary effort and at any speed of influence on her.
Now you have chosen a digital camera for yourself and even decided to buy it, but still there is no need to rush, that’s not all. Now all you have to do is check everything.
Trust but check
If you have firmly decided for yourself - “I’ll take it!”, then feel free to declare your intention to the seller. And, if there is such an opportunity, then it is better to consider (in terms of purchase) a non-window exhibit, which may be a little (or a lot, who knows) used.Here you will have to inspect and check for defects. And this is what it roughly looks like.
First, look at the packaging.
It must be clean and free of mechanical defects. Although at first glance the integrity of the box is not of decisive importance, it is not so. If the box is damaged, it means that the device has been subjected to shock. And how this will affect is unknown, so it’s better to play it safe. Read what and how it is written on the box, even if it is not written in Russian. Text and graphics should be clear and crisp. Must be present: product name; brief characteristics or advantages; barcode; manufacturer's address, as well as place of actual production. The addresses of the manufacturer and production may, and, as a rule, do not coincide when produced under license.
Next we check the completeness. Why open the attached operating instructions (for reputable companies this is a book) and look at what is included in the kit. Then we inspect all components. If inspecting a USB cable, for example, is not a problem, then inspecting the most important thing - the device - questions may arise.
Carefully and scrupulously inspect the camera parts. There should be no scratches, abrasions, or even cracks on the body.
Next, pay attention to the first lens. Its surface is illuminated. If you look at it at an angle in sufficient light, you will see colored highlights.
They may be bluish, greenish or brownish. Don't be alarmed, this is not a marriage! This is coating, which serves to reduce the reflection of light from the surface of the lens. However, you may not see such glare, then this means that the lenses are plastic and there is no question of durability (but they are cheaper). Next, we try to examine the body of the lens (if the lens is interchangeable, then it must be removed). Individual small air bubbles are allowed. “Large” devices should not have them. In addition, the lenses must be absolutely transparent (without clouding, etc.) and have no scratches, etc. on the surface. defects, as well as stains, including from fingers. Why do you need extra problems if it won’t be erased? Moreover, cleaning lenses is a very troublesome task.
And then, when you are convinced that the camera is intact and operational, only then can you remember where your wallet is. It's good if you didn't forget it at home.
After paying, do not forget to take the receipt (preferably with a copy) and the completed warranty card. By the way, it doesn’t hurt to read the terms of the guarantee before paying.
Make sure the entire kit is put back in the box and sealed.
Here you are, joyful, with your purchase, you came home and celebrated this event. What would it be like without this! What's next? And then MirSovetov advises using your digital camera quite intensively, at least during the warranty period. This is done in order to identify hidden manufacturing defects that were not revealed during inspection in the store. But after shooting the material, when printing from point-and-shoot cameras, you may encounter unexpected margins. And why? The fact is that most simple cameras, especially those with video support, make the sides of the frame 4:3, while the “large” ones are 3:2. Photos are printed on paper in a ratio of 3:2, i.e. Only “large” devices will not have problems. But don't be afraid - it can be fixed.
We must remember that a leisurely approach is the basis of the right choice. And the right choice is the guarantee that you will be satisfied with the purchase and it will bring you a lot of positive emotions, because... photography is an opportunity to preserve a moment for centuries. And I hope that this article will help you make the right choice.
It's hard to imagine life today modern man without a camera - the desire to capture bright moments, travel or valuable information forces you to wonder how to choose a digital camera, what characteristics are important to pay attention to, and which companies are best to give preference to.
Which digital camera is better?
For a person who has not encountered photographic equipment before, the abundance of cameras on the modern market can easily confuse. So, there is small and compact equipment that fits in the front pocket of a shirt, and there are huge oversized models with heavy weight and removable equipment. A separate issue is the variety of different brands, each of which releases a new model almost every year. How do they all differ, which company should you choose to get the best digital camera?
Digital point-and-shoot cameras
These cameras are the most budget-friendly, yet they are compact and convenient. But you should not count on the highest quality of photographs - the matrix size of such photographic equipment is small, sensitivity and other parameters also have small values. It is ideal for family everyday photography, travel, vacation. The best digital ones are often the following companies:
The optical zoom of soap dishes is often three or four times, in the newest models, for example, Nikon Coolpix S3700, eight times zoom. This same model and some others are equipped with Wi-Fi, which makes data transfers more convenient. For maximum ease of use, it is better to choose a model that is as new as possible.
This technique is an order of magnitude higher than point-and-shoot cameras, and the first thing that distinguishes it is a large optical zoom, a good large-size matrix, and high photosensitivity. A significant drawback that prevents these cameras from being included in the amateur or semi-professional lists is the stationary lens. It is impossible to change the lens in an ultrazoom; the only thing you can do is select macro attachments for high-quality shooting of small objects.
When deciding how to choose an ultrazoom digital camera, you should know that they are produced by such well-known companies as Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, the best option is to compare price and quality. The rating of popular ultrasonics today is as follows:
- Canon PowerShot SX530 HS.New model with 50x magnification, 16 MP matrix resolution, three-inch display, equipped with Wi-Fi for additional ease of use. Lens focal length 24-1200. The camera weighs only 442 grams, which allows you to take it with you to any events and long hikes.
- Nikon Coolpix B500. Three-inch rotating display, 40x magnification, matrix resolution 16 MP, focal length 23t - 900 meters. The weight of the camera is 541 grams. Equipped with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
- Nikon Coolpix P900. It features a huge zoom – the lens magnifies 83 times. Three-inch rotating display, 16 MP matrix, focal length 24-2000. The disadvantage is that it weighs a lot for an ultrazoom, 900 grams. The model is very expensive, suitable for photographing animals in the wild from a long distance. Equipped with Wi-Fi and GPS.
- Nikon Coolpix L340. A simpler and cheaper model. Magnification 28x, focal length 22-630, display 3 inches. Matrix resolution 20 MPx. Weight 430 grams.
- Panasonic DMC-FZ1000. Matrix 20 MPx, 3-inch display, 16x zoom, focal length 25-400. Equipped with Wi-Fi, capable of recording video with ultraHD resolution. An important advantage of this photographic equipment is the ability to shoot in RAW format. Camera weight 830 grams.
- Canon PowerShot SX60 HS. Matrix resolution 16 MPx, magnification 65 times, focal length 21 – 1365 meters, possibility of shooting in RAW format. Three-inch rotating display, camera weight 650 grams. Equipped with Wi-Fi.
- Sony RX10 III. One of the most expensive ultrasonics, characterized by moisture and shock protection. Shooting in RAW format, ultraHD video recording, Wi-Fi. Optical zoom 25x, focal length 24 – 600. Camera weight 1051 grams.
– this is high-quality photographic equipment for amateur, semi-professional and professional classes. A large light-sensitive matrix, a huge range of lenses to suit any request, and a mirror design allow you to obtain images of the highest quality with ultra-precise color rendition. To choose a good SLR camera, you need to clearly define your goals - either it will be high-quality shooting of family highlights, or professional work, and depending on this, select a model.
- CANON EOS 1DX. Recognized as the world's best DSLR reportage camera. Full-size matrix, shooting speed 12 frames per second, resolution 18 MPx. Such a camera is a real find for a professional, but for a family it is not at all advisable to buy it.
- NIKON D45. A new model with 51 focusing points, shooting speed 11 frames per second, matrix resolution 16 MPx. Thanks to its high photosensitivity, this device takes high-quality pictures without flash, even in the dark.
- CANON EOS 5D MARK III– the most popular professional reportage camera. Equipped with a new generation processor, 61 focusing points, shooting speed 6 frames per second.
- NICON DF. This camera is ideal for travelers, because the main advantage of this professional camera is its light weight, only 700 grams. It will also be appreciated by lovers of retro design. It is worth noting that it is “not modern” only in appearance - a touch screen, a good video finder, a magnesium body, and a good battery are proof of this.
- CANON EOS 6D. This is the most budget professional camera that allows you to get high-quality results at an affordable price. It is inferior to the famous 5D MARK III in shooting speed - 4.5 frames per second.
- PENTAX K-3. This technique is semi-professional, since the matrix size is not full, known as “crop”, resolution is 24 MPx, 27-point focusing. The camera weighs 800 grams, the body is made of light metal and is protected from moisture and dust.
- CANON EOS 7D. It is included in the category of professional cameras, but it is accessible to amateurs. This camera differs from professional ones only in that it is a “crop” camera.
- SONY ALPHA DSLR-A390. A good amateur SLR camera with well-designed automatic shooting modes. Matrix resolution 14 megapixels, shooting speed 8 frames per second, good convenient viewfinder.
- NICON D 3300. An ideal model for a novice photographer, allowing you to delve into the specifics of photography without high costs and get beautiful, bright photographs.
- CANON EOS 1100D. Almost identical to the previous camera. An ideal model for a photography beginner, also good in quality. Its undeniable advantage is its light weight and is extremely popular.
Mirrorless digital camera
If choosing a compact digital camera with high performance is important to you, it's worth considering mirrorless cameras. Their peculiarity is that they are based on a high-resolution electronic video finder, and they work perfectly with any lenses. They do not have an optical video finder on the mirrors; this is their fundamental difference from SLR cameras.
This equipment first went on sale in 2008; it is considered new, but its characteristics have proven itself to be excellent. Their important advantage over SLR cameras is their compactness and light weight, but the image quality, resolution, color rendition and sharpness are in no way inferior. But their price is also high.
Our rating will help you decide how to choose a digital camera with a mirrorless system:
How to choose a good digital camera?
Before you choose a high-quality digital camera and a modern one for your home, you should still understand its characteristics, only then will the purchased camera fully meet your needs. What should you pay attention to when reading the characteristics of photographic equipment on display?
Dimensions of the digital camera matrix
When wondering how to choose a high-quality camera, you should find out about the size of its matrix. This parameter is important when choosing SLR cameras high class, is determined by the size of the film frame and is responsible for image quality. The matrix of a digital camera can be full-size (36x24 mm) or with a crop factor (reduced in size).
Professional photographic equipment uses full-size matrices, which provides good image quality, higher photosensitivity and low noise levels. The downside is that it is very expensive, so unless you plan to do professional photography in specific lighting conditions, it is not necessary. All point-and-shoot cameras, cameras and SLRs of semi-professional and amateur level are equipped with a matrix with a crop factor.
Those who are just getting acquainted with photography are interested in the question of what is ISO sensitivity in a camera. Many have noticed that in the description of professional equipment they always talk about high photosensitivity - this is the ISO parameter; the higher it is, the higher the camera’s ability to shoot in low light conditions. But remember - high ISO produces a lot of noise, so try to set the light sensitivity as low as possible in the settings.
If you are interested in how to choose a very simple and compact digital camera, automatic modes - “auto”, “portrait”, “landscape” - will suffice for you. If you want more from photography, choose a technique with manual modes that allow you to adjust exposure (amount of light), ISO number, and depth of field. All SLR and mirrorless cameras, as well as ultrazooms, are equipped with several manual modes.
Digital zoom in the camera
What is optical zoom in a camera? It is an increase in the image on the frame without losing its quality. For a family camera, three or four times magnification is enough; any point-and-shoot camera can provide this parameter. If you need an increase of 10 times or more, then you should pay attention to ultrazooms.
When choosing a DSLR or mirrorless camera, remember that a parameter such as zoom has nothing to do with the camera itself; in this case These are the characteristics of the lenses. The camera itself will provide high-quality images with both a Fix (non-magnifying) lens and a reportage one.
The best camera for video
Today, almost every camera has a video recording function, ranging from budget point-and-shoot cameras to expensive SLR cameras. The only exceptions are professional SLR photographic equipment designed for high-end photography. To choose a camera for shooting video, please note that the number of megapixels indicated in the characteristics relates only to photos; video resolution is always lower. It is better to choose models with video recording in HD or FullHD resolution.
Which brand of digital cameras is better?
Summarizing the descriptions and ratings, we can safely say that best companies, producing high-quality digital SLR and mirrorless cameras are Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax. To choose a high-quality point-and-shoot camera or ultrasonic camera, you can add companies such as Samsung and Olympus to the previous list.
The topic of choosing a camera has probably always been and will be relevant. Time is running, technology is changing, old materials written on this topic are hopelessly outdated. The general principles remain unchanged, but a huge number of nuances force us to look at the problem of choice differently. Purpose of the article Which camera is the best?- dot all the i’s in the matter of buying a digital camera, taking into account current situation On the market. The article is aimed primarily at beginner amateur photographers, but I am sure the article will also be useful for experienced users.
Where to start choosing the “best” camera?
First of all, you must determine the range of tasks for which the camera will be used. The tasks can be completely different and you need to come to terms with the fact that an absolutely universal camera simply does not exist. There are only cameras that are suitable for solving certain problems or are not suitable. For example, to go on a picnic with friends it is not at all necessary to take a professional DSLR there (although there are enthusiasts), an inexpensive point-and-shoot camera or even a smartphone is quite enough - after all, photographs from such events, as a rule, do not go further social networks and home photo albums. In this case the best camera there will be one that is always at hand.
For professional purposes, technology requirements vary significantly depending on the shooting genre. To shoot a report, you need a high speed of continuous shooting and the ability to take photographs handheld in poor lighting, for a landscape - maximum clarity and color depth, for a portrait - high-quality rendition of skin color and the ability to get a beautiful blur of the background, for macro photography - the ability to focus on very close objects. object, and so on. Naturally, all these possibilities cannot be realized in one camera with a single lens. Thus, choosing the best camera option is always a compromise between the capabilities of the equipment, its size, ease of use and price.
Classes of digital cameras
One of the main criteria by which cameras are divided into different classes is physical matrix size. It is measured not in megapixels, but in millimeters (or inches). It is this parameter that has a decisive influence on the quality of photographs - color rendition, noise level, dynamic range. Traditionally, it was believed that DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have a large matrix - this is good, while soap cameras have a small matrix - bad. Now this division is very arbitrary, since many compact cameras have matrices comparable in size to amateur DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.
Conventionally, digital cameras can be divided into several classes.
Cameras in smartphones
In recent years, there has been a steady trend in the market - smartphones are slowly but surely replacing compact cameras. And there are good reasons for this:
- Smartphone always at hand
- The photo quality of most smartphones is sufficient for printing in a small format (for those who are used to doing this) and posting photos on social networks
- Built-in photo processing capabilities allow you to do without a graphics editor on your PC
- Photos do not need to be printed - they are quite convenient to view on a smartphone
- The issue of photo safety is solved by connecting to cloud storage
- It is convenient to share photos - via the Internet and via Bluetooth
If you are going to take photographs “for home, for family, for friends”, the best choice will be a smartphone with a good camera, and this is no joke! The only drawback of the smartphone is the lack of zoom, although there are models with two lenses - one for general plans, the other for close-ups. Such devices are more expensive, but they successfully solve 99% of amateur photography problems.
Entry-level amateur compact cameras (point-and-shoot cameras)
Against the backdrop of the growing capabilities of smartphones, this class of cameras can easily be considered endangered. The demand for them continues “by inertia”, but, I think, within a couple of years it will completely disappear. Camera manufacturers understand this very well and are gradually curtailing the production of compacts. The only subclass that is still afloat is “superzooms”. These are compact cameras with 10-20x or more optical zoom. The only advantage of such cameras over smartphones is the ability to take close-up shots of distant objects.
The topic of choosing a superzoom has been discussed (at the moment it is a little outdated and needs to be reworked, however, general principles can be understood). If we talk about the best soap dish manufacturer, then in this niche there is not much difference between them. Choose a device from Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Canon, Olympus. The quality of the photos will be the same, the only difference will be in appearance.
Some entry-level compact cameras have a full range of manual settings. This is aimed primarily at those amateur photographers who want to learn how to take photographs, however, the value of manual settings in such cameras is often greatly exaggerated. The presence of a programmable exposure mode (P), as a rule, covers 99% of the needs of an amateur photographer - tested from our own experience.
If you want to engage in artistic photography, I strongly recommend not to mess with “small matrix” cameras. The picture quality will be acceptable only on the street when daylight. As lighting conditions deteriorate, the quality of photographs rapidly deteriorates. Photos from these devices are difficult to process in Photoshop, because even with minor manipulations with brightness, contrast, and saturation, artifacts begin to appear - color distortion, increased noise levels, “steps” in smooth color transitions.
Cameras for advanced amateurs
This niche is the most diverse; it contains at least three subgroups, to one degree or another, competing with each other in their capabilities.
"Top soap dishes"
These are compact devices with an enlarged matrix and not interchangeable optics. According to their stated characteristics, they seem to be inferior to entry-level amateur devices (see above) - they have fewer megapixels, the zoom ratio rarely exceeds 3-5 times, sometimes they have worse video capabilities, but they do their job more honestly and with better quality - and namely, they provide better detail and color reproduction than entry-level devices. All this happens thanks to a larger matrix and a higher quality lens.
Among the top compacts, in my opinion, Sony, Panasonic, and Canon are the most successful.
Widget from SocialMartAnother advantage of the “top” compacts (as well as all the groups listed below) is the ability to shoot in RAW format. We will briefly discuss what RAW is a little later, but for now, just take my word for it - this is a very useful feature, for which you can sacrifice zoom ratio, a rotating/touch screen, not to mention “fashionable features” such as Wi-Fi, GPS, etc. .P.
“Top” compacts take excellent photos outdoors during the day, and you can also achieve acceptable photo quality with them indoors. All credit goes to a higher-quality matrix of increased size (from 2/3" to 1") - the larger the better, but also more expensive.
Almost all compacts in this class can shoot in RAW. The presence of the RAW format opens up great opportunities for extracting photos to an acceptable level of quality. The only limitation is that most devices in this niche are not capable of providing beautiful and powerful background blur (bokeh) where it is needed (for example, in a portrait or when shooting close-ups). To “make bokeh” in photographs, you need a device with an even larger matrix and a fast lens. For more information on choosing an entry-level or advanced point-and-shoot camera, see the article The Best Compact Cameras
Mirrorless cameras
Mirrorless cameras are essentially the same “top” compacts, only with interchangeable lenses. The main advantage of mirrorless cameras is their “systematic” nature. This is a construction set in which the carcass acts as a base and you can hang a lot of interesting things on it - lenses, flash, video light, microphone, additional screen. Another question is that this “interesting” thing costs extra money, and the cost of the kit can be many times greater than the cost of the carcass :)
Modern mirrorless cameras have matrices ranging in size from 4/3" (crop 2) to "full frame". Recently, even medium format system cameras have appeared. The cost of owning a system significantly correlates with the size of the sensor - the smaller the crop, the more expensive the optics. Sometimes noticeably more expensive!
If we talk about manufacturers, I would recommend first of all looking towards Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm. These manufacturers entered the “mirrorless” niche earlier than others and, therefore, their choice of additional lenses and accessories is wider than Canon and Nikon.
Widget from SocialMartA modern mirrorless camera is a fast, reliable and functional device that is not inferior in image quality and performance to DSLR cameras (and in some ways surpasses them) and at the same time is much lighter and more compact. The main disadvantage of most mirrorless cameras is that in the pursuit of compactness, many physical controls (buttons, wheels) are often replaced with software (menu items). Since the functionality of mirrorless cameras is very high, the menu becomes multi-level and complex - this makes life difficult for the photographer if he needs to photograph something in non-standard conditions, when standard settings and presets cannot provide the correct result. But this is the exception rather than the rule. In my opinion, if you need a device “for every day,” a mirrorless camera will be the most practical solution.
Having at my disposal a DSLR Canon EOS 5D ("full frame") and a mirrorless one (Micro 4/3), I give preference to the latter for most trips and walks light, as well as for home amateur photography, and I can say that the technical quality of the photographs is that of a modern mirrorless camera no worse than a 13-year-old full-frame “dinosaur”.
SLR Cameras
DSLRs- devices that use a shutter with a moving or fixed mirror, through which the image seen by the lens is projected into the viewfinder. This design is old, however, it has taken root very successfully in the digital world.
DSLRs no longer have any significant objective advantages over system cameras, however, due to the large number of available optics, DSLRs are still in steady demand.
DSLRs have firmly taken root in the field of professional photography - for professional photographers, it is important not only the number of functions of the camera, but also the ease of access to them (it’s easier to press a button than to climb the menu every time!). And the autofocus of advanced DSLRs in difficult conditions works faster and more accurately than that of mirrorless cameras. The main disadvantage of a DSLR is its size and weight, although some models are very compact and comparable in size to top-end compacts (for example, Canon ESO 100D). If this drawback is not critical, buying a DSLR is completely justified, otherwise it is better to look towards mirrorless cameras.
Among DSLR manufacturers, Canon and Nikon traditionally share the palm; I recommend considering these manufacturers first. Not because Sony and Pentax DSLRs are bad - far from it! The question is that over time you will want to buy a new lens for your camera. If you have Canon or Nikon, you can buy a lens at any photo store (after finding out where it’s cheaper) or a used one on Avito. Sony's situation is worse - optics, in principle, are on sale, but the range is smaller and prices may be higher. Pentax is a different story! The devices themselves are very interesting, but to find the right optics for them on sale, you need to try very hard.
Widget from SocialMartDSLRs are record holders for battery life, since the matrix “turns on” only when the shutter opens. For other classes of cameras, the matrix always works to transfer the image to the screen. DSLRs also have a LiveView mode, in which the camera works like a point-and-shoot camera and shows the image not in the viewfinder, but on the screen. At the same time, energy consumption increases accordingly.
If you try to look ahead, then in five years SLR cameras, if they do not disappear altogether, then with a 90% probability they will leave the amateur segment - they will be “taken out” by system cameras. The professional niche will also see a decline in the popularity of DSLR cameras. It’s not for nothing that leading photo manufacturers have mobilized their forces to produce full-frame system cameras and optics for them!
In light of the above, I advise you to think hard about the advisability of purchasing an advanced SLR camera for amateur use. In the secondary market, the demand for DSLRs has already noticeably decreased - used professional cameras cost as much as new amateur cameras, but no one buys them or is even interested. What will happen in a few years?
Cameras for enthusiastic amateurs and professionals
This niche is also very diverse. The main characteristic feature of these devices is the presence of some unique capabilities, for which people are willing to pay 2, 3 and even 10 times more than for middle-class equipment. Everyone’s needs are different - some need a full-frame sensor (mostly professional portraitists, landscape painters, wedding photographers), while others need the image component (most often, wealthy people, for whom the main criterion in choosing is “that the device is pleasant to hold” in their hands" - it is for them that compact stylish "image" devices are created).
Full-frame cameras provide the best image quality, which is why they are very popular among professional photographers and advanced photography enthusiasts. If previously this niche was mainly dominated by Canon and Nikon DSLRs, now mirrorless cameras are also beginning to penetrate into it. Sony Alpha A7 is the first sign, a full-frame mirrorless camera at a reasonable price for a full frame. The “vintage” Leica is a fashion device “for the rich,” however, it has a full-frame sensor and quite good photographic capabilities.
The screenshot was taken when a dollar cost 33 rubles :) Now the cost of such a Leica is from 600 thousand rubles. I will modestly remain silent about the practicality of such an acquisition; for the price of one Leica M body you can buy a professional Canon or Nikon DSLR with a professional lens (or even several).
If you're aiming for full frame, keep in mind that its capabilities are fully realized only with high-quality optics, which can cost comparable to the camera, and sometimes much more. Buying a full frame for amateur home photography is not the most practical investment. If you are a beginner, it is better to buy simpler equipment, and invest the difference in price into learning photography. If you have photographic experience and a desire to improve yourself, a full-frame camera will be an excellent tool in your hands!
Added 05/15/2018
Recently, one of my readers commented to me that I did not consider another category of professional equipment in this article - medium format cameras. I’ll say right away that I’m a little far from this topic and have only superficial knowledge about this technique. Medium format cameras have a matrix on average 1.5 times larger than the “full frame”, their own fleet of optics and additional equipment. The cost of a full-fledged set for shooting in “medium format” can exceed the cost of a new foreign car, so it’s no wonder that the demand for this equipment, even in the professional niche, is small compared to the same full-frame DSLRs.
Shooting in “medium format” is characterized by slowness, the use of long shutter speeds and very (by “cropped” standards) clamped apertures. The reward for this will be images with colossal detail (40-50 megapixels and more), ideal perspective transfer (since 50 mm on a medium format is a very wide-angle lens), and if you want to blur the background, then you can work wonders here.
Conclusion. Which camera is suitable for whom?
So, it's time to draw a line under all of the above. Let's try to summarize the most typical options in a table. The options are “basic”; depending on your preferences, they can be combined with each other. The table shows approximate camera models that are suitable for this role. Sometimes I labeled entire families of cameras. It was not my goal to list everything that is suitable - simply to indicate the class of equipment among which we need to look for options.
| What will you photograph? | A good choice | Very good choice! | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | I like to take pictures of everything, I post photos on VKontakte. I'm not interested in artistic photography. I am loyal to quality. | A good smartphone :) Not necessarily an iPhone. Samsung and top Chinese smartphones have very good cameras! | Smartphone with 2 lenses - for general and close-ups. |
| 2 | I just want a camera. And one that would always be at hand, would shoot well on automatic, but would allow you to play around with manual settings. I love light walks. I want to learn photography! | Top compact with a matrix size of 1" - Sony, Panasonic, Canon | An entry-level mirrorless camera often costs less than top-end compacts; in the standard configuration it may be inferior to top-end point-and-shoot cameras, but it provides more growth opportunities - interchangeable optics, an external flash, a microphone - all this can be purchased as needed. Sony, Panasonic, Canon, Fujifilm, Olympus |
| 3 | A camera for the home, for the family, allowing you to take high-quality photographs indoors and shoot videos | Entry-level mirrorless camera, with kit and additional “portrait” lenses and external flash (if there is somewhere to connect it) | Mid-level mirrorless camera with a rotating screen, an electronic viewfinder with an “advanced” kit lens and an additional “portrait” lens and an external flash |
| 4 | Camera for travel, mainly for landscapes | For walking lightly near home - a “top” point-and-shoot camera or an amateur mirrorless camera with a kit lens | For long trips to beautiful places - a DSLR or mirrorless camera with a set of optics from wide-angle to telephoto. |
| 5 | The camera as a means of production, mainly reportage | Semi-professional cropped or full-frame DSLR with semi-professional zoom lens (constant aperture 1:4.0) and external flash Canon EOS 80D, Nikon D7xxx | Professional full-frame DSLR with fast zoom lens (1:2.8) and external flash |
| 6 | Primarily artistic portraiture | Semi-professional camera (crop, full frame) with a high-aperture prime, optional non-autofocus (via an adapter) | Full-frame camera with a professional high-aperture prime. If you have nowhere to put your money, then “medium format”. |
| 7 | Wedding photo | Entry level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with an “advanced” 18-135 mm kit, high-aperture prime for portraits, external flash | A full-frame camera with a set of lenses covering the range of 24-200 mm, with a constant aperture ratio of 1:2.8, a professional portrait prime lens, an external flash, additional light, reflectors, an assistant who will carry it all :) |
| 8 | Photo hunt | Amateur level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with a 250-300 mm telephoto lens | Professional level - a full-frame camera with a fast telephoto lens of at least 400 mm, possibly also a teleconverter (extender). |
I think we can end here. Good luck with your choice of camera and more good pictures!
About my help in choosing a camera
Until recently, I provided a consultation service on choosing a camera based on your criteria. Now I'm her I don't provide. Due to my busy schedule, I no longer had the opportunity to regularly get acquainted with new products in the photo industry, attend presentations and exhibitions of new products. Therefore, the most I can offer you is to look at the table above again, or send a link to Yandex.Market with a selection of cameras with characteristics that suit your needs.
The modern world is a constant movement, a sea of colors, events, and travel. Social networks, Internet pages, websites - nothing is complete without photographs. Accordingly, one of the most common gadgets should be considered a digital compact camera. It is easy to use, versatile, compact, and affordable. Even children are able to operate many digital compact models. Marketers anticipate all the buyer’s desires, introducing more and more unique functions. In this regard, the range of digital cameras is simply huge, and it is not so easy for an inexperienced person to find a model that suits their needs.
Digital compact camera or smartphone camera?
There are at least three reasons why you should choose a digital compact:
1. Matrix size.
Not every smartphone can afford to install a matrix of the same size as in an average compact camera. Modern phones strive for thin and user-friendly shapes. The matrix, in turn, requires a lot of space, which the manufacturer is not ready to sacrifice. After all, a phone is, first of all, a multifunctional device, and its functions do not end with taking photos and videos. The camera is not so universal, but under similar indicators and conditions, the image quality of the camera will always be better. You can claim as much as you like that the phone takes a beautiful picture and you are satisfied with everything, but that is only until you start viewing photos on a screen of 30 inches and above. And it will immediately become clear that photos from a phone are not suitable for installation on a desktop or in a family archive, and when printing there is a high probability of getting unclear outlines due to insufficient detail and sharpness.
2. Settings and functions.
Agree, not every smartphone has an abundance of shooting settings. Often, even if there are settings, they are reset when turned off. Digital cameras, in turn, have a number of capabilities that are not available for simple phone cameras. As an example, here are the most common ones: ISO, shutter speed, red-eye reduction, autofocus in motion, zoom, etc. This indicates that the processor of even the most sophisticated phone is “tailored” to completely different needs. And the camera is focused on only one thing: creating a high-quality photo under any circumstances.
3. Energy.
All portable gadgets are limited in time of use by battery capacity. Let's say you went on a trip with your smartphone, leaving your camera in a dark corner at home. Upon arrival, a cultural program, hikes, trips, excursions begins. I want to photograph everything, record a video, time to watch, call, turn on the Internet. Suddenly the battery dies, and not only the photo, but also all other functions of the phone are no longer available. A separate device is much more practical.
We conclude: a phone is a universal device for many operations, but in terms of photography it is not so convenient. Ask yourself: are photos from your phone enough for you? Perhaps this is enough for social networks, but not an option for family photo sessions, archiving holidays and trips. It’s even more rare for photos from your phone to be stored in cloud storage or on a PC. You risk never seeing that piece of life that was captured in the smartphone photo again. Cameras are less likely to be lost, broken, and are not a permanent storage for photos; you always want to view photos on a PC.
But, despite all the disadvantages, there is one big plus - the smartphone is always at hand. This is the argument used by supporters of camera phones. Of course, when you have a camera in your hand, you have a better chance of catching a good shot and photographing necessary documents or advertisements as you pass by. In addition to a good shot, your phone folder will contain a lot of streaming daily photos of food, fittings, announcements, etc. Not everyone is ready to spend time “separating the wheat from the chaff.”
Digital compact or SLR camera?
If you are a demanding person in photography and expect high-quality pictures from your camera, then you have undoubtedly asked yourself the question: compact or SLR camera?
There are many arguments in favor of a SLR camera, but what are the advantages of a digital compact camera compared to a DSLR:
- Dimensions. DSLR cameras are heavy, and compact DSLRs do not exist at all and are unlikely to appear. In addition to the weighty body, the lens and external flash add dimensions and weight. With such a system, you don’t really want to bother every time to capture everyday moments of life. On tourist trips, hikes, or just a walk with friends, a DSLR camera is also not always appropriate; it’s an additional bag or an expensive burden hanging around your neck.
- Settings. To a large extent, digital compact cameras are easier to operate. They are designed for convenience and ease of use. Intuitive settings of modes in the menu make life easier for the user in many ways. That is, having bought a digital compact, you can go outside and immediately start taking photographs. With SLR cameras the situation is much more complicated. On the one hand, the auto-photo function is also available on a DSLR camera. But there will be no significant differences in the process of shooting in auto mode on a digital compact and a DSLR. In both cases, the camera thinks for you; you will not be able to control the process. Therefore, if your interests do not include studying manual mode, composition, light and shade, then why pay more?
- Versatility. Despite the advantages of DSLR cameras, they are not universal due to the lenses. Each genre has its own lens, which differs in focal length, aperture ratio, etc. This entails additional costs and lack of mobility. To satisfy consumer needs, manufacturers have equipped digital compacts for all shooting situations. This approach allows you to shoot not only portraits, but also landscapes, animals, insects, and objects.
If you have discovered a talent and a desire for photography, for learning something new, a desire for art, then a DSLR camera is your choice. For those who are not ready to go beyond auto mode, for your own good, it is better to choose a compact camera. The compact requires a minimum of time to study the instructions and small investments. While easy to operate, high-quality photos will allow you to save captured moments for life.
Basic parameters when choosing a compact camera
Once you have decided that a compact camera is the best option for you, the question arises as to what criteria you should use to make your choice. Being more specific will help you save money and time. There are not many indicators influencing the choice. Some characteristics are of a secondary nature and are often an exclusive addition to the manufacturer.
About the matrix and megapixels
Very often, buyers do not pay attention to the size of the matrix. But it is the size of the matrix that affects the quality of the final image. When choosing a camera, follow the rule - the larger the matrix in inches, the better.
The matrix is one of the most important components of the camera; in fact, it is digital film. Only the matrix, unlike film, does not store the image, but transmits electrical signals to the camera processor for processing and subsequent saving of the image.
However, manufacturers rarely focus on the size of the matrices, thereby leading the buyer away from the truth. Size affects image resolution, color, and amount of noise.
What is a matrix and how does it work? A matrix is a microcircuit consisting of many light-sensitive elements (pixels). Compact cameras often have a high number of megapixels. A camera of 16 megapixels and above is already considered average and affordable for any buyer. However, in this case, it is not quantity that is more important, but quality.
Modern digital compacts are equipped with matrices:
1/3” - a class of economy cameras, they are not much better than the cameras of a modern smartphone.
1/1.7” – average level For an undemanding user, the camera with this matrix size retains its compactness, and the quality of the images is an order of magnitude higher than that of budget models.
1" or more– among models with a large matrix, compact ones are less common. By appearance they remind DSLR cameras, although they still remain lightweight and smaller in size. The cost of digital cameras in this category is similar to the cost of SLR cameras; the image quality pleases with its color rendition and detail. Despite their characteristics, expensive models in rare cases allow you to adjust the depth of field (depth of field of the imaged space), focusing attention on the subject, as is possible in SLR cameras.
In addition, matrices differ not only in size, but also in type.
Depending on the technology used, there are:
1. CCD– the technology for reading charges is based on the principle of line-by-row movement and subsequent transfer of charge to the edge of the matrix, where the amplifier is located. The amplifier transmits the signal to the ADC (analog to digital converter) and then to the processor.
CCD matrices provide high-quality images in daylight. The technology provides for dense placement of pixels, which increases the sharpness and detail of the image (with sufficient lighting), and the quality of color reproduction.
Disadvantages of technology:
High noise level as ISO increases, i.e. shooting in low light requires the user to use a flash;
- low reading speed, cameras with this technology take longer to form a picture, which increases power consumption;
- expensive production compared to CMOS matrices.
2. CMOS (CMOS)– the charge is read from each pixel individually, thereby reducing the number of operations compared to CCD technology. Thanks to the reduction in processing steps, energy costs are significantly lower, which is a significant advantage for a portable device. The performance is also an order of magnitude higher, and the speed of shooting and recording increases.
There are also disadvantages:
Reading technology entails heating of transistors, which causes digital noise;
- Low sensitivity of the matrix;
- Big sizes matrices compared to CCD.
Only after choosing the physical size and type of matrix does it make sense to think about the number of megapixels. In fact, manufacturers mislead the buyer by focusing on the number of megapixels.
A larger megapixel size entails not only advantages, but also disadvantages, in the form of higher resolution and weight of photographs. Processing large-sized photos takes longer to convert and requires large external memory. For the average user, such bells and whistles will only add to the inconvenience.
Lens
The choice of a digital compact camera should be treated carefully, if only because the device is not collapsible and does not allow you to change the optics. Consequently, preference should be given to the most universal models “both in feast and in peace.”
Some of the most important indicators:
- Focal length. Since the digital compact gadget is universal, its focal length range is quite large. This allows you to photograph both landscapes and portraits. Focal length primarily affects the viewing angle. Let's say you need to photograph the whole family at a table in a small room. If the minimum focal length of the camera is 18 mm, then the likelihood of “capturing” everyone in the frame increases. A focal length of 50 mm already forces people to crowd together.
In addition to the above, it is worth considering the fact that the shortest focal length guarantees strong distortion (geometric distortion of lines), which can be partially removed in a graphics editor.
- Diaphragm. The aperture is responsible for the photosensitivity of the lens, that is, it regulates the amount of light passing through and is designated F/ 3.5-5.6 (for example). In digital compact cameras, aperture values range from 2.8 to 7.0; it is rare to find a model with a high photosensitivity of F/ 1.4.
When choosing a digital compact, first of all pay attention to the first indicator: the lower it is, the more sensitive the lens is to light. It is easier for the user to focus, and it becomes possible to shoot at low ISO in the evening or under artificial lighting.
- Zoom. A function that absolutely all digital compact cameras are equipped with. It may seem to an inexperienced user that the possibility of multiple zoom will allow you to shoot while standing still, simply zooming in and out of objects on the camera. Which is fundamentally wrong!
Zoom comes in digital and optical versions. Optical zoom more significant characteristic. Approximation occurs due to optics up to the maximum focal length. Optical zoom increases the distance to the object by 3 - 5 times maximum, without affecting the quality of the image in any way (not taking into account geometric distortions of the lens).
Digital zoom brings the subject closer using technology built into the processor. In fact, the image is simply stretched, detail is lost, soapiness and noise appear. It is better not to use digital zoom unless absolutely necessary; you can just as easily enlarge a finished image on a computer screen.
Additional features
Once you've focused on the most important metrics, you can consider additional criteria. Manufacturers are diligently stuffing digital compact cameras with all sorts of functions and technologies. They often turn out to be very useful.
Shooting video
Modern models of digital compacts allow you to shoot video even in 4K, which, accordingly, entails an increase in the cost of the model. Decide how often you need this function, and whether you are ready to purchase a capacious flash card and an external battery in addition. The high-resolution video recording function quickly eats up both memory and battery power.
In addition, digital CDs generally record only short videos, which is more suitable for touching moments or short reviews on Youtube. For frequent use of video recording, pay attention to the presence of a stabilizer. The stabilizer can be optical (in the lens) or digital (in the body). In both cases, its presence will only be a plus. However, when stabilization is installed by the manufacturer, the power consumption and size of the digital camera increases.
Whether to overpay or not is up to you to decide, but you must understand that even the most expensive digital compact will not allow you to shoot video at a professional level.
Viewfinder and LCD screen
Regardless of the cost and “filling”, all digital compact cameras are equipped with an LCD screen and rarely a viewfinder. These elements of the camera allow the user to see and control the shooting process. A menu is displayed on the screen, and you can view photos before you transfer them to your PC.
The viewfinder is no less important - on a bright sunny day it is difficult to see anything on the screen. In this case, the viewfinder will help control the process and make sure that autofocus is aimed correctly.
Built-in flash
Any, even the most budget camera, is equipped with a built-in flash. For cameras with low light sensitivity, this is a good option to capture a meaningful moment. Although most likely the photo will not claim to be artistic and will not be suitable for installation in a frame. When purchasing a camera, go to the menu and make sure that the flash can be turned on or off forcibly. In cheap models, it only works automatically, which is not always convenient.
Let's say, when photographing indoors, the flash will turn on itself, even if without it the photos will be relatively light. In this case, it is better to forcibly remove the flash and raise the exposure in the editor. But the likelihood of maintaining volume and avoiding glare will increase.
Another situation in which you cannot do without forced flash control is shooting against a light source. If the subject is against a light background and the light comes from behind, then a photo without a flash is doomed to death. The subject will appear as a black silhouette in the image, so you will need to turn on the flash manually for additional illumination.
Compact camera flashes are not designed to long range, illuminate objects at a distance of 2-5 meters, no more.
A plus for the flash will be the addition of a red-eye reduction mode. All mid-price cameras are equipped with it, but it does not always work.
It is rare that models have the ability to install an external flash. Either way, the feature is pretty useless. An external flash can cost the same as a camera, but the quality of the pictures will remain at the “amateur” level.
conclusions
