Metal engraving at home. How to make an engraver with your own hands - components and assembly procedure

Engraving on metal always attracts the eye. This trade has fed artisans since ancient times. And today it has not lost its relevance. Craftsmen can turn everyday objects into real works of high art by decorating them with fancy miniatures. Sometimes you can see entire paintings of considerable size, made by engraving artists. And few people know that absolutely anyone can do this business.

Photo 1. Souvenir engraved hunting knife, perfect good gift which can be given to hunters.

Do-it-yourself engraving can become a profitable and interesting business if you really want it.

You can decorate small metal objects using engraving yourself at home. This activity will arouse the respect and envy of friends and acquaintances. In Zlatoust, thousands of craftsmen practice this craft at home. Engraved items are expensive. A saber costs approximately 300 thousand rubles, a hunting knife costs up to 100 thousand (photo No. 1). Agree, this is good money. How to make engraving on metal at home with your own hands? For this lesson you need to prepare the simplest equipment that can be found in any house, in any apartment.

Let's start experiments

Decorative patterns using the engraving method are applied to plates, knives, pistols, sabers, medals, cups, and apartment numbers. All patterns and inscriptions are preserved almost forever and do not require expensive and rare Supplies and special equipment. The design can be applied to steel, aluminum, brass, copper, and metal alloys. The method does not pollute environment. It is impossible to wash off or erase the drawing using conventional methods and means.

Photo 2. Engraved wedding rings, the wedding date and the initials of the bride and groom are usually written on them.

1. Nail polish that my wife doesn't really need.
2. Toothpick with sharp tips.
3. You may need an ordinary match.
4. Salt.
5. Charger for car battery. It can be successfully replaced by charging from a mobile phone.
6. Glass or porcelain dishes in the form of a glass, mug or jar.
7. Nail polish remover.

The work is done in this order:

1. Take a spoon and cover it with nail polish. The entire surface must be varnished very carefully, otherwise there will be defects in the work.
2. Using a match or toothpick, a pattern, name, or other image is scratched through the layer of varnish.
3. IN glass tumbler or pour 2 tablespoons of salt into the jar. Some people add a spoonful of salt and a spoonful of soda.
4. Water is poured into the vessel, the salt is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved.
5. Automotive or other Charger We connect the positive terminal to the product being processed, and the negative terminal to any metal object that will be placed in a vessel with water. This item could be another spoon, a piece of thick wire, or a metal plate.
6. The rectifier is connected to the network. Almost immediately, an etching reaction will begin in the glass with darkening of the liquid. It lasts 1-5 minutes. It depends on the magnitude of the current. The product is checked periodically. After reaching the desired etching depth, it is removed from the container.
7. The varnish is washed off with nail polish remover. The result should look something like this (photo No. 3).

Photo 3. Personalized engraved spoons and, interestingly, engraving can be done on various metal objects in a simple home environment.

In this way you can process any metal objects at home. If you make an inscription with varnish, it will be convex on the etched background. For more quality work It is recommended to purchase a special tool - an engraver. It can operate from the electrical network and from built-in batteries. The kit usually includes drills different shapes. They can work on glass, plastics and other materials. Wedding rings with engraving - this great gift newlyweds (photo No. 2). But you can do this yourself only when you are completely confident in the result of the work.

Return to contents

Glass engraving

Photo 4. For home engraving you will need regular salt, nail polish, nail polish cleaner and a glass of water.

Do-it-yourself engraving on the glass surface is done chemically and mechanically. Mechanical method involves the use of a nozzle that is driven by an electric motor. Procedure:

1. Using a dark marker, the drawing is transferred to the glass.
2. A damp sponge is applied to the image on the glass. This must be done carefully so as not to smudge the drawing.
3. When working, you must use safety glasses.
4. After completing the drawing, it is washed and examined for gaps. If necessary, missed places are processed again.

It makes no sense to talk about applying inscriptions on metal using special paints or varnishes. By the way, this is also one of the methods of engraving on metals. But how long will such drawings, symbols, and icons last on the sample? They will be washed off quite quickly with any of the solvents, although due to banal abrasion their service life will be short. There are more efficient technologies metal engravings, which we will talk about.

But are they all suitable for independent performance, and even at home? When you just read about them, everything is clear and easy. But practical implementation is another matter.

Laser engraving

This method is considered the most effective, as it allows you to apply a pattern (drawing) of any complexity to metal, “writing” the finest lines and smallest icons on it. But taking into account the fact that engraving samples using this method will require expensive equipment, it is acceptable only for those who have decided to make this craft their business, that is, to put production on stream.

It’s unlikely that anyone will want to shell out a tidy sum just to put memorable inscriptions on a couple of teaspoons or on a blade hunting knife. The services of professionals in any workshop will cost less.

Mechanical engraving

The accessories are much simpler here - you only have to purchase a set of required cutters and the engraver itself. A drill is often used for these purposes (anyone who has ever visited a dentist knows what this is). Another option is to apply images using incisors.

The quality of the inscriptions will be high, but only if you have not just knowledge in this area, but also great practical experience. This work requires a “sharp eye” and a steady hand. How many of us can boast of our skills? It turns out that quite a lot of time will pass from what was conceived to actually executed, which is necessary to acquire skills. Who is happy with this prospect? In addition, you also need to be able to sharpen cutters (stiches) correctly if the work is carried out with their help.

Conclusion - for applying various inscriptions on metals at home, with your own hands, and by an untrained person (and these are the vast majority), the best option is electrochemical engraving. This technology is worth understanding in more detail.

Let's consider the technique of electro/chemical etching for the purpose of applying inscriptions. It belongs to the simplest category, and anyone who has chromed metal parts at home will get the gist of it right away.

Engraving method 1

What you will need:

• Glass container (according to the size of the workpiece being processed). Naturally, not a bottle with a narrow neck, but a jar, glass or bath.
• Constant voltage source (up to 15 V). It should provide a current of 0.5 A, at a minimum. The best option is a battery charger for a personal car. This is exactly what the author used. Although some craftsmen use battery chargers for household tools (screwdrivers, etc.) and even cell phones for these purposes.
• A couple of wires for connection and clamps (for example, alligator clips).
• Any metal workpiece (the same spoon) that will play the role of a second electrode.
• Saline solution. The concentration is determined by eye, so the general recommendation is as follows: per glass of water – 2 teaspoons.
• Varnish. You will need it to paint the segment of metal on which you plan to engrave. Most articles devoted to the electro/chemical method contain tips on using the nail composition. The author, in order not to “injure” his wife with such extravagance, used the so-called tsapon-varnish, which is well known to radio amateurs and electrical installers. It costs a penny, is not in short supply, and can be easily removed with a solvent.

Engraving technology

Electrolyte is being prepared

Water is poured into the container, salt is added in the required amount (depending on the volume) and thoroughly mixed until completely dissolved. The quality of the engraving largely depends on this.

A part (product, sample) is being prepared for applying something

The dimensions of the inscription or design are known, so it is not difficult to determine the area of ​​metal varnish coverage. After the layer “sets” a little, the required contour is drawn. What - a needle, a thin awl, a toothpick, a sharpened match and the like - is up to you, dear reader. Whatever it is more convenient to do the work with your own hands, do it. The task is to “expose” the base metal along the lines of the pattern to ensure its direct contact with the electrolyte.

You can do it differently. Wait until the varnish is completely dry, and only then “scratch” the lines. But these are already details, and it’s easy to decide on your own what’s best.

Next, the electrodes are placed in the solution

One is designated - any metal blank. It is connected by a wire to the “–” of the current source. The second is the sample on which the engraving is applied (to its “+”). The technology is similar to .

Supply voltage

The time of the technological operation is determined visually. If the etching depth suits the master, then you can turn off the charger. Typically, engraving using this method requires no more than 5 minutes.

All that remains is to remove the metal product from the bath, remove the varnish, rinse the sample well under running water and wipe dry. That's it, the engraving is done!

The drawing and inscription can also be made convex.

To do this, you need to apply varnish to previously drawn (felt-tip pen, pencil) lines (stripes). And all the rest, “uncoated” metal will be etched.

Engraving method 2

This engraving technology is somewhat more complicated, but for the reader to be more informed, it should be considered. The difference is in the technique of applying the image to the metal.

Plus - the ability to choose any design (pattern) of the most ornate inscription, regardless of personal artistic abilities. You don't have to reproduce it yourself.

Disadvantages - they will become clearer as the presentation progresses, as well as what will need to be prepared.

Features of the method

Preparing a drawing (lettering)

Everything you need can be easily found on the Internet and copied. For those who own computer graphics- not a problem at all. The main thing is to have a printer at hand for printing.

What to consider:

• You will have to do a mirror image conversion.
• For this technology, only a laser printer can be used. Any other type of device is not suitable.
• You will need not ordinary paper, but thin glossy paper. As an option - self-adhesive film. In this case, you need to refill so that the print falls on the substrate. You can also attach it to standard (office) paper with pieces of this film.
• The printer “brightness” mode is set to maximum.

After printing, the image is carefully cut out.

Attention! Work should be carried out with gloves to prevent contact of fingers with the pattern.

Metal preparation

It is cleaned of foreign fractions and degreased.

Fixing the stencil on metal

To prevent it from slipping in the future, it is advisable to secure it (at the edges) with adhesive tape.

Heat treatment

It involves ironing the stencil with an iron. The difficulty is that both the heating time and temperature will have to be selected experimentally. General recommendation– no more than 2 minutes at maximum heating of the iron.

Cooling

After the metal temperature drops to room temperature, the stencil is removed.

It only remains to add that there are quite a lot of DIY engraving techniques - both with the help of solutions and without them. After all, the conversation was about metals, without indicating which ones specifically - steel, brass or something else. The above methods are some of the most common and accessible for DIY implementation. Typically, they are used for engraving steel products. Anyone who wants to master literally all technologies practiced at home will easily find the relevant information.

Good luck with your DIY engraving!

In this material I want to tell you about engraving on metal. Stages engraving on metal almost no different from the same ones, but still there are some nuances.

Tools and materials

For engraving on metal, we need the same thing as for engraving on plexiglass - the same Dremel and attachments, namely: cone-shaped and spherical. In this case, a flexible shaft is necessary, because although metal is harder than plexiglass, working with it requires greater delicacy, and when working with aluminum, you cannot do without it at all. If you want to experiment, then it’s worth taking a polish. But take a protective one - no GOI pastes or the like. That seems to be all there is to this point.

• First, clean workplace and choose a surface of such a size that you can wrap the workpiece without problems. When engraving on metal, you don't need directional light - just regular lighting will suffice.
• The second most important thing is comfort. Sit so that your hand can freely reach the top of the workpiece. Also lay the workpiece and check it for deflection. It may be that at the very important point the metal will bend and the cutter will lead in the wrong direction, ruining the whole job.
• Wipe the surface well, remove all dust and get rid of grease.
• Fasten it well b. If you have a tripod, great, great. But there are cases when the Dremel lies without fixation, therefore there are two options: either engrave with one eye and look at the tool with the other, or simply tie it to the table with something. For example, I hold the Dremel on my knee - it’s most convenient for me.

So let's get started with the process. First, we select a design and print one on self-adhesive paper, and the second on plain paper. I'll tell you why the second one later.

Printed design for engraving

On top of everything else, I also had to trace all the lines additionally, from which I learned a useful trick. Next we will figure out the location of the drawing, and after that we will glue it. It is advisable to glue starting from the corner and continuing diagonally. No blistering of the paper directly on the drawing is allowed.

To begin, take a cone-shaped nozzle. The photo shows how it has become frayed during use, but the tip itself is still capable of producing a straight line.

Cone-shaped nozzle on a flexible shaft

We sit down to work, cross ourselves three times and begin. During work Don’t get distracted, don’t get annoyed, and don’t overthink. The most optimal movement of the nozzle will be if you position it at a degree and move it towards a more acute angle. In the figure below, it needs to be moved to the lower right corner.

The process of engraving on metal.

Here are some intermediate photos of the work.

On last photo you can see how the paper has been torn off. Mostly I shoot it under hot water, but this time there wasn’t a drop of liquid in the garage, so I was impatient and just tore it off. Anyone who can be more careful should experiment with this matter. You can, for example, paint over all this, getting an original effect. As a result, we have a good, but unfinished picture, which itself looks lonely against a black background.

The first version of engraving on metal

But now we take that same unused drawing and outline on it with a pencil the places where we will “fill in”. After this, we take a spherical nozzle and begin to fill. The result is this:

Engraving on metal with filling

• If needed engrave long line, start from the bottom and move the Dremel away from you. Somehow the line turns out very smooth. As I say: “With soul.”
• When you first start engraving, take a pen and draw the main lines directly on the drawing, excluding unnecessary ones.
• Very often, paper gets under the cutter and gets chewed, after which the cutter can go in the wrong direction purely mechanically. To avoid this, you should start the line a little further and end a little earlier. Then, during the final revision, you will adjust it.
• If it happens that the entire section is very difficult, then simply put dots on the lines and connect them at the end.
• During pouring, do not randomly scrape off the paint. If the fill line is very large, then you should not fill it progressively. It is best to go from start to finish without stopping the cutter in a separate area.
• Again - don't make very small details. The consequence may be peeling of the paint.

Artists and other craftsmen have been engraving wood and metal for centuries, and many books are devoted to this art. Nowadays, lasers and other machines engrave plastic, gems and other complex materials. Despite all the abundance of possibilities, you can do engraving yourself with a modest set of tools at your disposal.

Steps

Metal engraving

Select a tool. You can use a hammer and chisel, but manual or pneumatic gravers or cutters are not that expensive and allow you to apply the design very accurately. If you already have necessary tool(such as Dremel brand), you can use it.

Choose a metal object to practice with. If you've never done this before, take something you don't mind. Only train on things that you are not afraid of ruining. Soft metals (copper, brass) are easier to engrave than steel or other hard metals.

Clean the metal. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth, then wipe off the water with a dry cloth. If the metal is still dirty, scrub it with a cloth and soap, then dry it.

Draw or print text or a picture. If you are working with a small subject or this is your first time, choose a simple design with clean lines. Difficult work It will be difficult to complete without experience, and the drawing may turn out blurry and untidy. You can try applying the design directly to the metal, or printing the design at the desired size and then transferring it to the surface (we'll show you how to do this below).

Transfer the design to the metal (if necessary). In this paragraph we will tell you how to transfer a design from paper to metal. If you have already applied the design directly to the surface of the product, proceed to the next step. If you can't find necessary materials, look on the Internet for other ways to transfer a picture. Remember that almost everywhere you will need special tools.

Secure the metal product. It will be much easier to engrave if the piece is held in a vice, and this will also prevent it from popping out. You can use a clamp with a handle and hold it in your hand, but this is dangerous because you can get hurt. If you're using a power tool or a hammer and chisel that requires two hands, it's best to find a clamp that will hold your work itself.

Start cutting the metal according to the design. Using your existing tool, begin turning your design into an engraving. To start, try holding the tool at the same angle all the time. Cut in a straight line in two directions until the mark becomes visible, then go deeper. Let this area be the beginning of the work. Then move on to other lines. If you need to cut a letter with a curve, cut a straight line first. Once you're done with this, move on to the curves.

Learn. Engraving is an art that people learn throughout their lives. If you are interested in new techniques, machine engraving, or are looking for advice on expanding your tool collection, this is the opportunity to obtain this information.

Start cutting out the design. Turn on the tool and carefully lower it onto the tree. Move slowly and smoothly over the entire surface. To get a 3D image, you don't need to go too deep, so paint lightly and then go over the top again if you don't like the result.

Paint the wood (optional). If you want the design to be more visible, try painting it. Paint the surrounding surface a different color to make the design stand out from the background. Paint or clear varnish will also protect the wood from wear and tear.

Hand carved wood

Select your tools. There are many hand tools that you could use in your work. To get an image with lots of detail, like in 19th century books, take 2-3 tools for different purposes. Here are the main tools that are suitable for this:

• Incisors used to draw smooth lines.
• Engraving needles allow you to draw lines that can expand and contract depending on the angle of the tool.
• Engraving tool with round or square ends can cut big piece wood to clear space for the drawing. If you don't plan to print your design, you won't need this tool.

1. Apply a thin layer of ink to the wood. Take a bottle of black ink and apply a thin layer with a brush or rag. This will highlight the work area, so it is important to keep a small amount of ink otherwise it will ruin the surface.

   Make sure the surface is ready. Let the ink dry. When the surface is dry, blot it to check if any marks remain. If there is any remaining, remove excess with a paper towel.

   Strengthen the tree (optional). If you place a small bag of sand under the tree, the tree will hold securely no matter which way you press. You don't want to attach the tree to the table because you will have to move it as you work.

   Pick up the instrument. Hold it like a computer mouse, with your palm slightly bent. Gently press down on one side of the metal rod index finger, then press on the other side thumb. Let the sawdust lie in the palm of your hand. When carving, you will press the tool inward to create the necessary pressure.

   Start cutting the wood. Press the tool to the surface at an obtuse angle and start working. With your other hand, slowly turn the tree. Try to cut no more than 1 centimeter at a time, and then adjust the position of your hand. Smooth lines will come with experience.

   Try working differently. You can first cut out the outline of the design, going slightly beyond the lines, so that later you can work out the details with a more precise tool.

Conditions yourself. After all, it looks very beautiful and impressive if you decide to give your friends or loved ones a valuable personalized gift with wishes that will never be erased or fade in the sun. The inscription will always remind a person of you, making you remember the most wonderful moments spent together.

Let's watch the video and then move on to the process:

We will need:
- photo varnish for printed circuit boards Positiv 20;
- product for engraving;
- glass;
- alkali NaOH;
- acid or ferric chloride; UV lamp;
- a bone for etching;
- container for solutions;
- acetone, for removing varnish after etching.

A stencil for engraving is prepared in advance.

The stencil can be made using Adobe Photoshop. Just don’t forget that after making the desired text or drawing in Photoshop, it must be mirrored horizontally so that the text can be read properly on the product. You can also use QuarkXPress, but also be sure to mirror the image you created.

It is best to print the stencil on laser printer. Just plain paper will not work for this; you need to use a special film. If the toner is not dark enough, then you can take two identical stencils and carefully glue them together.

Engraving is done using photo varnish for printed circuit boards. You can purchase it at almost any radio market.

The principle of operation is as follows.

A thin layer of photo varnish is applied to the product to be engraved, which must first be shaken. Don't forget to put newspaper on your work table to avoid getting it dirty. After application, allow some time for it to dry thoroughly.

Then a stencil with the desired text or engraving design is applied to the product. Turn off the bright lights first, otherwise flare will occur. Then it is pressed with glass or a thin film, which can also be fixed to the metal using small magnets; they should not overlap the inscription.

The assembled structure is illuminated with an ultraviolet lamp. Don't forget to wear special safety glasses to avoid harm to your eyes. The exposure time should be 5 – 10 minutes.

The stencils are removed and the metal is washed with a NaOH alkali solution of the correct concentration or a sewer cleaner, observing safety precautions.