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How to remove the cartridge. Replacing the cartridge and problem solving options

Frequent use of a drill, both for professional and household purposes, entails wear and tear on some of its parts. In particular, the chuck wears out, resulting in problems such as drills, bits, and beaters falling out during operation. As a result, you have to periodically tighten the chuck to avoid injury during the working process. This situation can be corrected by removing and replacing the cartridge, but we will learn how to do this from this material.

All drills, screwdrivers and hammer drills for securing working parts are equipped with chucks, the operating principle of which is based on a cam mechanism. Bits, drills and other auxiliary devices are fixed in the chuck by clamping them between three and sometimes four connecting cams. The cams are a cone-shaped structure that moves only in the longitudinal direction when the adjusting special sleeve is turned. There are two types of cartridges:

— key;

- quick-release or manual.

Key chucks secure the working tool by using a special key, but on quick-release drills Manual effort is sufficient to secure the working attachments. Depending on the quality of production of the drill, as well as the frequency of its use, the service life of the chuck depends. The jaws wear out, so the chuck is not able to fix the working attachments. The jaws cannot be repaired, so the need to remove the chuck is to replace the worn part and thereby revive the drill.

Key chuck for a drill with a special key

In rare cases, the chuck is removed from the tool when a drill or bit gets stuck in it. Rotating the chuck relative to the tool shaft is also negative consequence, which can only be eliminated if you unscrew the cartridge and replace it with a new one. Both quick-release chucks, in which the jaws have a shorter service life, and key chucks, which differ from the former in the maximum tightening force of the working attachments, must be replaced. Impact drills are equipped only with key drums, since the fixation of the working tool on them is much more reliable.

Keyless chuck for drill

What tool will you need?

To carry out work to dismantle the chuck, replace it, as well as to remove a jammed drill, you will need to make sure that the following is present: the necessary tool:

1) Vise and pliers.

2) Hammer and mallet.

3) Wrench and pipe wrench.

4) Phillips screwdriver.

As you can see, every man has such tools in his garage, so you can remove and replace the drill chuck with your own hands.

Removing the drill from the jammed chuck + (Video)

If you are faced with the problem of a drill being jammed, then not in all cases you will need to dismantle the chuck to remove it. When the drill is jammed in the chuck, it can be removed by using a vice.

The drill must be clamped in a vice in horizontal position. The drill body also needs to be fixed so that it is stationary. The surface of the cartridge and the cartridge case must first be lightly tapped with a hammer, and then struck hard. It is important to strike the sleeve in the direction of the tangent plane. The hammer continues until the drill is released from its engagement with the chuck.

If using a hammer you cannot free the drill and unscrew the jaws, then you can use a gas wrench. The drill body and the jammed drill are fixed in a vice, and a gas or pipe wrench is used to turn the chuck in a clockwise direction. You can also use two pipe wrenches, clamping the drill shaft with one tool, and trying to rotate the clamping element with the second.

Fastenings: what they are like + (Video)

The clamping mechanism is attached to the drill shaft using the following methods:

- threaded connection;

- conical connection.

The design of a threaded connection often uses an additional locking screw, shown in the photo below. With its help, reliable fixation of the cartridge is ensured.

Chuck, key and locking screw for threaded connection

The threaded connection is ensured by identical threads on the tool shaft and in the channel clamping mechanism. The type of thread used in a given connection plays a significant role, and they can be metric or inch. The thread used on a drill is designated using a special abbreviation, which looks like this:

"1.5-15 M13x1.2"

The abbreviation stands for the following:

If the tool uses inch thread markings, the abbreviation is designated UNF. IN modern models drills use inch threads, since the choice of clamping mechanisms with inch threads is much wider.

To securely fasten the clamping mechanism, the shaft is equipped with a locking screw, which has a left-hand thread. Therefore, unscrewing the screw to remove the cartridge is carried out in a clockwise direction.

A less common method is to secure the cartridge using a clamping mechanism based on the use of a Morse taper. In this case, the shaft is a cone shape and the clamping mechanism is equipped with a similar shape in the internal channel. The fastening of the mechanism occurs under the influence of forceful mounting of the device onto the structure of the shaft of the electric motor of the tool. Such mechanisms are marked using the following abbreviations: B10, B12, B18 etc..

Key chuck for drill with cone connection (marking)

The letter designation indicates the marking of the cone, and the digital designation indicates the diameter of the tail of the tool. The conical connection has the following appearance, shown in the photo below.

Cone Connectors for Chucks

The conical fastening method is more reliable, as it can withstand large power loads than the first connection option. In addition, it is easy to use: it is easy to remove and just as easy to put on the shaft.

Finding out how to secure the cartridge

In order to find out how the chuck is secured to the drill, it is necessary to conduct an external inspection. Experts determine at first glance this moment, and for inexperienced craftsmen there are markings by which one can judge the method of attaching the chuck to the drill. Examples of markings for conical and threaded connections are described above.

We remove cartridges with their various connections + (Video)

To remove a chuck that is screwed onto a tool, do the following:

1) There is a screw inside the cartridge located in the middle of the device. This screw has a left-hand thread.

2) To unscrew the screw, you will need to use a Phillips head screwdriver.

3) It must be unscrewed in the clockwise direction, that is, to the left.

4) After unscrewing the screw, which may not be present on some drill models, it is necessary to unscrew the unit that serves to fix the working element. Unscrewing is carried out by rotating the unit to the right.

Such popular manufacturers of power tools as Interskol and Makita have a similar design for securing cartridges on drills and screwdrivers. Therefore, all that is needed to unscrew the cartridge is to determine the type of connection and then use one or another method to remove the cartridge.

Makita drill with keyless chuck and threaded connection

When removing a cartridge with a cone connection, there are often no problems at all. The simplest way is to carry out the work using a hammer. It is used to dislodge the structural element from its engagement. The drill must be secured in a vice so that the chuck faces down. After this, blows are applied to the back of the cartridge, thereby dismantling it.

Drill with various cones for securing the chuck

Putting on a new cartridge + (Video)

After the cartridge has been dismantled, it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, perform the following steps:

1) For chuck threaded connection:

— a new cartridge is screwed onto the propeller shaft in a clockwise direction;

— the screw is tightened in the direction of rotation counterclockwise.

2) For cone connection:

- secure the drill in a vice;

— place the cartridge on the shaft;

- Using a hammer and mallet, install the part in place.

So, to remove the chuck from any drill, you need to know the procedure and be able to distinguish design features connections. The only drawback of all these procedures is the need to replace the cartridge with a new one, because worn parts can no longer be repaired.

It's hard to imagine a home without an electric drill. This is almost every man's favorite instrument.

Usually the user does not worry about the drill, works for himself with the tool, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the clamping mechanism jammed, and repairs loomed on the horizon. It became necessary to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to do the necessary work without completely and irrevocably ruining the drill. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and methods of attaching them to the drill.

In contact with

Design features

Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:

quick-release or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change tools, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with quick-release chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
toothed, requiring the use of a special key.

There are also other varieties, for example, SDS+ and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.

Attaching the chuck to the spindle of an electric drill

Actually, There are two mounting methods:

cone mate;
threaded connection.

You can find out the type of fastening by the marking:

the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse cone, the special shape of the mating surfaces (in total there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45); before this designation, the range of drill shank diameters is marked, for example, 1−6 B10;
type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of metric threads (diameter of drill shanks, thread diameter and thread pitch);
abbreviation UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the marking of metric threads, for example, 2−13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ indicates the diameter of the thread in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads per inch length), which indicates fastening using an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.

Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill

To perform this operation The following tools may be required:

The tool is first removed from the chuck. The key chuck can be unlocked without a key by inserting the drill shank into the hole.

Dismantling with conical mating

This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.

If there is a fixing screw, remove it.

It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill down and remove the cartridge by light tapping hammer (to protect mechanisms from damage, the best option is to strike the cartridge body with a rubber or wooden mallet through a spacer - an open-end wrench).

If you have a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.

Dismantling with a threaded connection

In this case The disassembly order is as follows:

The cams are recessed as far as possible, since at the bottom of their socket there is the head of the internal screw, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not mandatory.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw from the spindle; the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. If you have difficulty turning the screw, you can lightly tap it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
The cartridge is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by rotating counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, it is recommended to use two keys. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the jaws and unscrew the cartridge with it.

If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to gain access to the spindle.

And one more tip: if during disassembly the screw turns out to be damaged, then you can purchase an adapter for

One of the most common breakdowns in a drill is a malfunction of the chuck holding the drill. The faulty cartridge must be removed and inspected. Having become familiar with the mechanism and principle of operation of the cartridge, everyone will be able to independently make a decision about the future fate of the part - change or repair the cartridge. What types of cartridges are there? How are they built? How to remove the old cartridge, how to install a new one? What measures should be taken to repair the cartridge.

What is the function of the chuck in a drill?

The drill chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism. It serves to transmit rotational motion from the electric motor to the working tool. Its task also includes fixing the drill in such a way that during operation the maximum accuracy of drilling holes, reliable fastening and quick replacement of the tool are observed.

Types of fastenings

Engineers have come up with various design solutions for fixing cartridges. Depending on the method of attachment to the rotating shaft, cartridges are:

threaded - the cartridge is screwed onto the shaft thread;
conical - a cartridge with a conical shank is inserted into a mating socket and held by friction;
collet - the cartridge is put on the shaft and secured with a screw.

Photo gallery: types of tool mounts

Methods for fixing the working tool

All chucks clamp the tool between the jaws (jaws). Three cams evenly approach each other, the tool is fixed strictly along the axis of rotation. According to the method of fixing the drill, chucks are divided into:

quick-clamping The master tightens the cartridge by hand;
self-clamping. The chuck is equipped with a ratcheting wheel that prevents the drill from spinning;
SDS+ and SDS-max cartridges. The chucks do not have cams; the drill is inserted into a special socket and fixed. Such chucks were developed by Bosch and are used in rotary hammers and powerful drills. The tool will never fall out of the mount.

Video: what is the difference between the quick-clamping method of fastening and the self-clamping method?

Replacing and repairing a drill chuck

Symptoms of a problem

Most common external signs cartridge malfunction:

the cartridge body flies off the gearbox shaft or the axis of rotation randomly shifts during operation;
the chuck jaws jam or fall out of the body;
The drill is not clamped in the chuck or cannot be removed from it.

In such cases, continuing to work with a drill becomes not only impossible, but also dangerous. It is necessary to find out the cause of the problem and eliminate it.

If for some reason the cartridge becomes unusable during operation, it should be replaced or repaired. You cannot operate a drill with a broken chuck.

How to change a part?

Threaded fastening of the cartridge to the gearbox shaft is carried out using threads with a short pitch and additional control fixation with a screw with reverse (left-hand thread) in the outer end of the shaft.

Since when switching speeds and modes, the chuck rotates in both directions, rigid fixation of its working position is provided.

To do this, when assembling the tool, an additional sealant is applied to all threaded connections, which, when dried, acts as an adhesive layer.

This should always be kept in mind when assembling and disassembling the electric drill. When repairing a cartridge, it is most advisable to use silicone-based sealants - this will allow you to carry out routine repairs with the least effort, and will also protect the metal from corrosion and oxidation when exposed to moisture.

In order to disconnect the cartridge from the rotation mechanism, you must:

Open the jaw clamps inside the chuck as far as possible to gain access to the control fastening screw.
Unscrew the fastening screw. As a rule, the slots of this screw are cross-shaped. Therefore, you should use a screwdriver of the appropriate configuration. Often during operation, under the influence of centrifugal forces, this screw is tightened in the seat beyond measure. Then you have to use considerable force to unscrew it from the socket.

You can use a mechanical impact screwdriver, but be very careful. If the splines on the screw are damaged, removing the cartridge will become much more difficult and you will have to change not only the cartridge, but also the gearbox shaft. Among other things, such “jamming” indicates that during the previous assembly no sealant was applied or it was not given time to dry.

Using counterclockwise rotational movements, unscrew the chuck body from the threads of the working shaft. To do this, you need to keep the shaft from rotating. This can be achieved in several ways:

Hold the shaft with one hand using adjustable wrench, the other unscrew the cartridge.
Remove the gearbox housing and hold the gears with your hand from turning.

Video: how to easily remove a drill or screwdriver chuck

In some models, the shaft to which the chuck is attached has special grooves for an open-end wrench. In this case, unscrewing the cartridge is much easier. It is enough to insert the key into this groove and lock it in a stationary position.

If the chuck is mounted on a drill with a cone, then the procedure for disassembling changes as follows:

Unscrew the fastening screw inside the cartridge.
Secure the drill body to vertical position(for example, using a vice), so that the chuck is at the bottom.
Using an open-end wrench as a spacer, use a wooden or rubber mallet to knock the cartridge body out of its seat.

Strikes must be struck with caution so as not to damage the cartridge body and its structural elements.

The cartridge is secured to the shaft after repair or replacement in reverse order. When assembling, you need to pay attention to the degree of rigidity of the fit of the conical recess in the body of the cartridge onto the conical end of the leading element, as well as their axial relative position. The control screw inside the chuck can only be tightened if it is firmly seated and the longitudinal axes are completely aligned.

A silicone-based sealant is used to secure the internal control screw. It is not recommended to start working immediately after assembly. The sealant should dry and lock the screw in the desired position. The drying speed of the sealant is usually written on the packaging. Most often this is approximately 1 mm per day, but since the thread pitch is usually fractions of a millimeter, it is enough to wait 10–12 hours until it dries completely.

There are cases when, after repairing and fitting the chuck onto the conical spindle of the drive shaft, the chuck begins to beat and vibrate during operation. This indicates that errors were made during assembly. You will have to disassemble the entire assembly again and seat the cartridge again. Experienced craftsmen advise in such a situation to heat the cartridge to a temperature of 100–110 degrees. This heating can be achieved by dipping the cartridge body in boiling water for several minutes.

When heated, metal tends to expand noticeably. The conical hole of the cartridge will increase and, as it cools, it will sit better on the shaft spindle. In modern household appliances, conical cartridges are used less and less. This is due to the fact that they have been supplanted by more convenient to use cartridges that are mounted on a thread.

Collet chucks are also not used in household appliances. Their area of “habitat” is high-precision drilling work with thin and ultra-thin tools.

When going to the store for a new cartridge, take the old part with you. When selecting a cartridge, not only the diameter of the thread is important, but also the direction of its cutting - right or left.

How to disassemble the cartridge?

After disconnecting the cartridge from the rotation shaft, the question of disassembly and repair arises. It should be noted that undertaking such repairs at home is not always justified. You may need special keys and accessories that not everyone has. In addition, many manufacturers specifically make their products non-separable. Products made of molded plastic and expanded metal cannot be disassembled and assembled without changing the properties of the materials. Save it dynamic characteristics and completely unlikely.

Video: Repairing a keyless chuck

If the chuck is dismountable, such as jaw chucks with a key and quick-release chucks, then repairs should only be started in compliance with all personal safety measures, in well-lit and equipped rooms. After directly disassembling the cartridge and diagnosing the problem, you should replace the damaged part and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Some craftsmen recommend lubricating the internal mechanisms of the cartridge with heavy lubricants (such as Litol or Graphite) during repairs. However, this is strictly forbidden, since during operation, dust and chips generated during drilling will stick to the lubricant. Having accumulated on the internal cavities of the mechanism, they will cause damage to the threads and other rubbing parts.

The only exception is the SDS cartridge, in which the lubricant is incorporated technologically, based on its design features.

Common problems and ways to solve them

The chuck vibrates or flies off the spindle axis

The most common problem is related to the unstable position of the cartridge body. If the chuck begins to vibrate during operation or flies off the spindle axis, this means that it needs to be urgently repaired.

First of all, it is necessary to find out the reason for the cartridge jumping off the shaft. Most likely, it will be the wear of the fastening screw inside the cartridge. From frequent sharp impacts or lateral loads, the head of this screw may break off. And then the cartridge can be easily unscrewed during operation, especially if you hold it with your hand.

The best solution to the problem is to replace the cartridge with a new one, but it is also possible to replace only the control screw. To do this, you need to completely disassemble the cartridge, and then try to drill out the broken bolt and replace it with a new one. It's not always as easy as it seems.

Clamping jaws jam

The second common problem with the chuck is jamming of the clamping jaws. Most often this happens when drills whose diameter exceeds the recommended one are inserted into the chuck. Or when during repairs, the working part of the cams is generously lubricated with lubricant. Over time, dust and debris that get inside the cartridge are cemented with a lubricant and break the thread rims or jam the movement of the cams themselves.

This can be corrected by disassembling the cartridge and thoroughly cleaning the jaws from accumulated debris. If the threads inside the mechanism are intact, the cartridge can be assembled and used for a long time.

Many experienced craftsmen when drilling in particularly dusty conditions, protect the chuck from debris by placing half a tennis ball on the drill.

The long life of a tool depends on its correct operation and regular maintenance. If the tool is broken, you cannot work with it. This is especially true for household electric drills with chucks - a flying drill can cause injury. Removing a faulty cartridge and installing a new one is quite possible for a home craftsman. Cartridges for household appliances are not always repairable, so it is recommended to scrap them or contact a professional.

A drill is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of a home craftsman or professional. This equipment allows you to drill holes of various thicknesses. There are several varieties of such tools. Today, both hand and electric drills are available. Every master should know how to properly use such a tool.

During long-term use, the equipment may fail. should be found out before starting work. In this case, even a beginner will be able to properly repair his instrument.

User manual

It assumes that the technician has carefully read the operating instructions for this tool. This will prevent many breakdowns. The type of tool should also be considered. Hand and electric drills are on sale today. They may differ in size, power and additional features.

Before work, using a drill, it is necessary to examine the wall for the presence of communications hidden in its thickness. These could be electrical wires or pipes. A metal detector will help detect such objects. The hole will always be slightly larger than the diameter of the drill. This must be taken into account when choosing fasteners.

Make sure that when drilling (especially metal) the drill does not slip. This will prevent it from breaking. For ceramic surfaces, it is recommended to use adhesive tape at the drilling site. The drill should be positioned perpendicular to the wall.

Types of cartridges

There are several types of cartridges. This must be taken into account before repairing the instrument. Electric drills most often use quick-release chucks. They make it easy to change drills during operation. This type of chuck, for example, is available in an electric drill from Makita, Bosch, Hitachi, etc. You should not purchase cheap models with such a device. They quickly become unusable.

Impact drills use jaw chucks. They are stable even when working in difficult conditions. Installation of the drill is carried out in such systems using a special key.

There is also a third category of cartridges. These are SDS collet chucks. There are 2 grooves in their shank. In this case, the drill is screwed into it and secured with a locking ball. This cartridge also has 4 grooves. Two of them are needed for the guide wedges. The other two grooves provide reliable fixation of the equipment. In this chuck, the spindle is automatically locked after installation.

Mounting type

Considering types of drill chucks, it is impossible not to note the methods of their fastening. There are two main methods. Fastening can be done using a threaded connection or on a cone.

In the first option, there is a thread on the shaft and internal channel. It can be metric or inch (depending on the manufacturer). To make the connection strong, a special screw is installed inside the shaft. It has a left-hand thread. It is unscrewed clockwise.

In the second fixation option, a Morse taper is used. The end of the shaft has a characteristic shape. It is made in the shape of a cone. The internal channel has the same shape. It is at the end of the shaft that the cartridge is installed. This mounting option is more common in screwdrivers.

Marking

When repairing a drill, you can determine the type of chuck attachment by the markings. If the system has a threaded connection, the corresponding information will be marked on the body. Metric threads are designated by the letter “M”. The number indicated after the letter indicates the diameter of the connection. Also indicated maximum drill chuck diameter and him minimum value shank (for example, range 1-15 mm). The last number indicated in the marking indicates the thread pitch.

For the inch system, the designation UNF is used. Before you begin repairing equipment, you must carefully check whether the fastening of the new part meets the parameters established by the manufacturer. Almost all foreign instruments use the inch system.

The conical connection is marked with the letter “B” and a number (this is the size of the shaft end). You should also definitely pay attention to this indicator when choosing a new part.

When should you change the cartridge?

When repairing a Makita, Hitachi, Stanley, or Bosch drill, you should first read the manufacturer’s instructions. This will help you get the job done well. The chuck must hold the drill firmly. This allows you to drill holes with a certain accuracy.

Over time, the clamping mechanism wears out. This also applies to the cartridge seat on the shaft. He starts hitting. The working area begins to oscillate when the equipment is operating. In this case, the hole is obtained with deviations both in diameter and location.

The wear of the mechanism does not allow the drill to be firmly clamped in the chuck. It will stop when the load increases. To fix such problems, you will have to replace the clamping mechanism.

Replacing the threaded cartridge

Must be carried out in accordance with the type of construction. To remove the threaded connection, use a screwdriver. It is used to unscrew the spindle screw. It is located inside the drill. The screw should be unscrewed completely and removed from the spindle. This element has a left-hand thread. Therefore, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

The cartridge, on the contrary, has a right-hand thread. To remove it, you will need to unscrew this structural element counterclockwise.

Sometimes the screw is screwed in very tightly. It can be quite difficult to dismantle it manually. In this case, it is enough to tap the screwdriver with a hammer when it is installed in the groove on the fastener. You can also use a gas or open-end wrench. The first of them should grasp the chuck, and the second should secure the spindle.

Difficulties when replacing a threaded cartridge

Sometimes even drill chuck key cannot help dismantle the tool structure. In this case, you can use several more approaches. If the chuck's clamping jaws work, you can use a larger hexagon. This will help you apply more force. In this case, it is necessary to secure the spindle with an open-end wrench.

The design of the chuck of modern electric drills does not require the use of additional equipment. However, this does not mean at all that it will be easier to change the cartridge for them. In this case, it is quite difficult to dismantle the clamping mechanism.

Sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the instrument body. This will allow you to reach the spindle hidden inside it. When assembled, this element can be hidden deep in the body. After dismantling and replacing the cartridge, the structure is assembled in the reverse order. In this case, you will not need to use additional keys.

If for some reason the screw inside is damaged, it can be replaced. In this case, it is recommended to purchase a cartridge adapter. It is sold for a cam type tool. The adapter also comes with a screw.

Replacing the cone chuck

Considering how to change the chuck on a drill, you should consider a variety such as a cone clamping mechanism. In this case, the procedure will be quite simple. In this case, you can use a special device. It is used for dismantling bearings.

To remove the cone-type clamping mechanism, place the drill vertically. Its drill should point downwards. Tap the entire surface of the cartridge with a hammer. In this case, the clamping mechanism will gradually become knocked out of its seat.

The cone connection must then be cleaned and sanded with fine sandpaper. After this, the new cartridge will easily fall into place. It is fixed with a light blow of a hammer from above.

Causes of problems with the clamping mechanism

The drill, the instructions for use of which must be studied by the master before starting work, requires proper operation. In this case, many problems will be avoided.

Today, most electrical varieties of such equipment are equipped with an SDS type cartridge. It was developed by Bosch. This device is not very accurate. However, this mechanism allows you to drill holes even in hard materials. In this case, the tool operates with impact. In this case, drilling accuracy cannot be achieved. A special adapter is used for this.

If it is necessary to drill a precise hole in wood, metal, or plastic, a special nozzle is used. It is produced for both quick-release and jaw chucks.

It should be remembered that milling cannot be done with a drill. In this case, the cartridge will not be able to withstand the lateral load. You also need to pay attention the right choice drill, sharpening it, as well as marking the center of the drill (using a core).

Drill maintenance

Periodically, the tool needs to be serviced, old parts need to be replaced, and moving parts need to be lubricated. In this case, it is also necessary to find out how to change the chuck on a drill. The cone cartridge must be turned with the nozzle upward. It is covered with wooden spacers and clamped in a vice.

Use a gas wrench to unscrew the nut and remove the bearing. The washer is pulled out. Next, the cartridge can be removed from the vice. The adjusting sleeve is twisted by hand. The cams must be removed from the guides.

After dismantling, all parts of the clamping mechanism must be inspected, and worn parts must be replaced. Next, the mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. All moving parts are lubricated with grease.

Types of drill chucks

For household and professional drilling equipment, a keyless keyless chuck is used.

With such a clamp, you can change the drill in a couple of seconds without resorting to the help of a handy wrench. By pressing firmly with your palms, you loosen the mechanism, which will allow you to release the cutting tool from the chuck. In the same way fix the drill for further work. This type of chuck works due to a corrugated metal sleeve and a locking spindle.

On to the cons keyless chuck include unstable clamping. An already worn quick-release chuck does not secure drills properly large diameter, which leads to cranking. Typical for a round shank.

The key jaw chuck must be loosened and clamped with a special key, which can easily be lost over time in work situations. I wonder what's more experienced users For drilling tools, preference is given to a chuck with a key, since a drill or cutter can be clamped “tightly,” for example, even in a vice.

When purchasing a drill, screwdriver or hammer drill with a key jaw chuck, immediately secure the key from the kit to the wire with insulating tape or tie it to a strong cord. There will never be any problems changing the drill.

Mini drill cartridges are very popular among radio amateurs. Such elements are sometimes placed on a drill or mini drill. Can be installed on any tool suitable for drilling. For example, jewelry makers will not be able to perform work without this fastener.

Most often, mini chucks are used for a light drill or household screwdriver. The optimal drill diameter for a mini chuck is from 0.1 to 4.5 millimeters.

It is very convenient to drill microcircuits, mini models and jewelry.

The mini chuck has the simplest quick-release design collet chuck. Most often made of brass.

How to remove and change a cartridge with a threaded connection

A threaded drill chuck is installed on the shaft of a power tool and secured by the left-hand thread of the screw. You need to remove the damaged cartridge from this mount, but take into account the non-standard threaded connection.

The above-mentioned screw is located inside the cartridge; logically, you need to unscrew the cams as much as possible, in other words, “drown” them to the limit. This is what the action looks like in the photo:

How to further disassemble the drill chuck? Inside you can see the same screw that can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver. Having gained access to it, you need to unscrew it strictly clockwise with a good screwdriver. There are models of instruments where this screw is not installed. In this case, the cartridge is completely unscrewed from the shaft without any preparatory work.

A screw with a left-hand thread loses the clarity of its groove over time due to inaccurate changes in cutting tools. For convenience, you can hit the screw through the inserted screwdriver with a hammer. This action will deepen the groove without harming the tool.

When unscrewing, you can use a 14 key for convenience.

How then to remove the chuck from the drill? Everything is very simple: unscrew the screw or spindle with a left-hand thread and unscrew the cartridge itself by hand for replacement or repair.

Further replacement of the drill chuck

It’s not difficult - purchase a chuck suitable for the drill and install it along the threads in the same sequence.

How to quickly remove the chuck from a drill is shown in this short video:

When replacing, take into account the type of connection. There are two of them:

conical;
threaded

The threaded chuck is installed on the tool according to the above diagram.

It is important to know that the threaded cartridge is marked with two types:

1.5-13 M12*1.25;
1.5-13 1/2 – 20UNF.

1.5 – 13 - marking of the minimum and maximum diameter for the cutting tool installed in the chuck.

When replacing, observe this marking. If the chuck from your drill shows a value, for example, 1.5 -13 M12, then you should change it to a chuck with the same marking.

The cone type of connection is a little simpler. When replacing the cartridge, simply push it in. The following varieties exist:

It is interesting that any cartridge in the tool store marked “B” means precisely the conical mounting base. The numbers on the marking (from 10 to 18) are the diameter of the lower hole.

How to remove a flare chuck from a drill? The easiest way. The cartridge is dismantled using a regular hammer, knocking it off the pin.

How to remove a cone chuck from an electric drill - video

Dismantling threaded and cone connections
Removing the working tool

A drill is one of the most necessary tools in the house. Sometimes the question arises of how to remove the chuck from a drill. This problem appears when a tool fails or when repair and restoration work is carried out on the unit. This task is simple enough that anyone with technical knowledge can do it with ease, but it can be a challenge for a homeowner who has never done it before. In order to remove the chuck from a drill, you need to thoroughly study the principles of fastening this component of the device and only then proceed with removal.

To disassemble the tool, you need to prepare the following tools:

vice;
hammer;
mallet;
keys;
screwdriver;
pliers;
fine sandpaper;
file.

If the sequence is followed, dismantling is not a problem.

Reasons leading to the need to dismantle the drill chuck

Most hand drills produced by manufacturers today use a chuck to attach the working tool, the operating principle of which is based on the use of a cam mechanism. The working tool is fixed by clamping it between 3-4 cams that come closer to each other. The cams have a conical part and are able to move in the longitudinal direction due to the rotation of the special regulating sleeve on the device for clamping the drill. In a quick-release chuck, the sleeve is turned by hand, while in a regular chuck, a special key is used for this purpose.

During the operation of the drill, situations arise when it is necessary to change the chuck, for example, if the working tool begins to run out. Most often, this malfunction occurs as a result of a displacement of the center of the drill attachment, which appears due to intense wear of the cams. In order to carry out repair work in such a situation, it is necessary to dismantle the cartridge from the device. Sometimes you have to remove the chuck in order to remove a jammed drill from it. The cause of jamming can be sudden damage to the cams of the clamping mechanism. In addition, disassembly and removal of the tool clamping device is required if excessive wear of the gearing on the adjusting sleeve is detected. In some cases, while working with a drill, a situation arises in which the chuck rotates relative to the drill shaft, which also requires repairs, which will include dismantling the chuck.

Sometimes the clamping device is replaced at the initiative of the tool owner if it is planned to install a more universal unit on the drill.

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Types of fastening the clamping device to the drill

The clamping device can be attached to the drill shaft in two ways:

using a threaded connection;
using a cone connection.

Another type of threaded connection is the use of an additional locking screw in the design, which ensures reliable fixation.

Threaded fastening assumes that the drill shaft and the clamping device channel have identical threaded threads, with which they are connected. Given this type of connection, the question arises of how this clamping device can be dismantled. In the manufacture of drills and clamping devices, metric and inch threads are used. The type of thread used in the device and its size are indicated on the body of the clamping device. For example, the inscription “1.5-15 M13x1.2” stamped on a cartridge may mean the following:

1.5 and 15 – numbers indicating the minimum and maximum diameters of the drill shanks with which the clamping device can work;
M13 – letters and numbers denoting metric threads having a diameter of 13 mm;
1,2 – numbers characterizing the thread pitch.

When using an inch thread type, the abbreviation UNF is used, and the dimension is indicated in inches. Before removing the chuck from the drill, you should check that the markings on the new clamping device match the chuck that was previously used in the drill design.

Modern tool models produced by manufacturers most often have inch threads. Manufacturing clamping devices with inch threads allows you to expand the possibilities of interchangeability.

To ensure more reliable fastening of the clamping device, a locking screw is provided on the shaft of the device. The screw has a left-hand thread, so if you need to unscrew it, rotate it clockwise.

The second method of fastening the clamping device is based on the use of a Morse taper. The shaft of the device is made in the form of a cone, the clamping device has the same taper of the internal channel. The clamping device is secured to the shaft by forcefully mounting the device onto the motor shaft of the device. The markings of such clamping devices are B10, B12, B16, B18. The letter means the marking of the cone, and the number means the diameter of the shank of the working tool.

When the drill works properly, the user has no questions, but there are cases that require disassembling it, many are stupefied, solving the problem that has arisen: how to remove the chuck from the drill. To correctly perform such an operation, you need to know how the cartridge is secured to the shaft, and then begin dismantling.

The following types of cartridges exist:

quick-release or self-clamping device;
collet-type sds devices;
cam

On a drill with keyless chuck You can change a drill or other attachment quite quickly, without the need to use any additional devices. The cartridges of the first option are divided into single- and double-coupling devices.

Single-coupling devices have a shaft locking system that is activated during tool replacement. They have a significant negative point - very low strength of the fixation elements; the external parts of the cartridge are made of plastic, which greatly increases their damage and breakdown of the entire device.

Repair of this type of cartridge is not provided - only replacement.

Manufacturers install on impact models and rotary hammers cam products, because their design is stronger - key chucks are mainly used here to securely fasten the drill.

Collet type The cartridge was created back in the 70s of the last century; its design is distinguished by the fact that there are two grooves in the tail section, and the drill must be deepened by 40 mm with a screwing motion. There are 4 grooves: 2 fixing, 2 for guiding the wedges, the cutting tool is fixed with locking balls.

With a classic gear device, the tightening is adjusted using chuck key, which comes with the drill. To properly unscrew the cartridge, you must follow the recommendations of an experienced technician; to do this, watch this video:

Mounting methods

The chuck is attached to the shaft of an electric or manual drill in two ways - a conical connection and a thread, so there are a minimum of varieties here. In practice, there are devices with metric or inch threads, and on the body of the product, even the smallest one, there is always a marking.

For example, a designation of this type 1.5-15M13x1.2 is deciphered as follows:

1.5-15 is the diameter of the tail part of the cutting tool in millimeters;
M13 - metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
1.2 - thread pitch.

Using threads in inches- UNF and the diameter is indicated: 1/2”. This type of connection is considered international and is used in all instruments from foreign manufacturers. For special reliability, a stopper is placed on the shaft, in the form of a screw on the left thread - this must be taken into account when you are confused about how to disassemble the chuck of an imported drill. It only needs to be unscrewed clockwise.

The second method uses Morse cone, which today is more often called the instrumental cone. The shaft has a conical part at the end onto which the device is mounted, and a small force must be applied for a tight connection. The marking is as follows: B10, where the letter indicates the use of a cone, and the number indicates the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool. This type of fastening is common with screwdrivers.

Morse cone

Some drills are equipped with an adapter for the clamping mechanism, which allows drilling with maximum accuracy.

Cartridge mechanism problems

In modern drill models, such as Interskol or Makita, the drill or other attachments are secured by a chuck with cam mechanism: 3 or 4 cams securely hold the cutting tool; they can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. The keyless chuck is adjusted manually; more complex designs used in modern drills are adjusted using a key.

During operation, a beating of the clamped bit may occur; the cause is wear of the cams during long-term operation. The tool is repaired as follows: you need to remove the device from the shaft; the same actions are necessary when the drill jams, because it can only be removed after completely disassembling the cartridge part of the product.

The following error occurs: the cartridge rotates relative to the tool shaft. The reason for this behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device mount, or subsidence has occurred at the landing cone. The way out of this situation is to replace the cartridge with a working analogue.

Tool for work

Replacing a drill chuck is easy if you know the design of this unit and the methods for attaching it. To carry out repairs you will need a simple set of tools:

bench vice, you can use not the standard one, but a smaller version for home needs;
steel hammer;
carpenter's mallet;
pliers or pliers;
medium size pipe wrench;
set of wrenches;
calipers;
screwdriver;
file;
sandpaper for sanding.

The list shows the minimum set; there are situations when other plumbing equipment may be required.

Dismantling the cartridge

Depending on how the chuck mechanism is mounted, disassembly methods will vary.

This structure must be disassembled in this order.

Carefully unscrew the locking screw.
We unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise, if the thread is tightened properly, we clamp the tool shaft in a vice. A gas wrench is used to unscrew it. Then we remove the device and inspect it for integrity and serviceability.
If the drill is jammed in the jaws, then we apply not strong, but precise blows with a hammer using a drift on the cams from above.

Installation is carried out in reverse order. When screwing in a new device, the shaft must secure against turning free hand. Lastly, tighten the locking device. Video to help home crafters:

Cone connection

Removing the cartridge from the tapered part of the shaft is quite easy. The drill kit should have a special device for these purposes, but many experienced craftsmen use this method: they turn the tool over with the drill down, secure it and evenly hit the back of the device with a hammer to knock the device out of the shaft.

After dismantling it is necessary grind the conical surfaces using an emery cloth; if there are surface burrs, remove them with a file. The new cartridge is installed in place even easier - by hitting it with a mallet on top, it fits tightly into the joint.

Users need to remember that removing a drill or other attachment when it is jammed in a chuck requires certain skills and ability to handle plumbing tools, but in any case the device must be dismantled. If the chuck on the drill fails, it must be replaced.

In order to ensure maximum security during fastening, it is very important to tighten the cartridge with significant force. Cam chucks can be:

“regular”, represented by “key” or “gear” options;
“quick-clamping” or bzp cartridge.

To tighten or loosen the adjustment ring on a “regular” device, you will need to use a special wrench.

Characteristics of the drill keyless chuck

Tightening and loosening will require the use of a special metal sleeve that is knurled or grooved. Quite often, a plastic sleeve with ribs is used for this purpose.

The main difference of this element is the absence of a clamping key and the use of an outer shell that allows clamping of the drill lips. Most often, the use of BZP is accompanied by the following problems and difficulties:

insufficient quality of drill clamping;
lack of sufficient resistance to dust;
breakdown of the clamping mechanism.

Drill chucks: varieties (video)

If the model of a mini drill or screwdriver is equipped with a special type of lock, then it is necessary to use a single-socket clamping element. On tools without a blocker, a two-clutch element or a mini-chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and a steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.

Any option for performing repair work yourself requires knowledge of the device and its main components:

cone-shaped gripping lips;
inner part with lips;
external clamping part.

If necessary, each individual element of such a device can be replaced, for which it is necessary to disassemble the device correctly.

How to remove and disassemble an electric drill chuck

Even small, minor repairs will require proper disassembly of the structure. Today, there are only two mounting mechanisms on the working shaft, so the process of dismantling work may vary.

At threaded method fastening, the structure must be disassembled in the following order:

deepen the cams inside the body and spread them as far apart as possible;
Unscrew the fixing screw located in the central bottom part of the device. Fasteners with left-hand threads must be turned clockwise;
using an open-end wrench placed on the shaft, the device is unscrewed.

If there are no flats, the housing is disassembled, as well as the rotor shaft is subsequently fixed in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the element using a gas wrench.

The most popular and frequently used in modern instrument is a conical connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the cone connection, this option, with the right approach, can be quite easily disconnected on its own. For this purpose, as a rule, the body is first tapped in a circle, after which the element is knocked off the shaft using a sharp and accurate blow to the rear of the shaft.

After the cartridge is removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of malfunction. You can carry out repairs yourself if there is no significant damage to parts or jamming. caused by metal shavings trapped inside adjacent parts. As a rule, restoring functionality in the event of such a breakdown can be achieved by washing the elements in oil or kerosene using a soft, medium-sized brush. After this cleaning method, assembly is carried out in negative sequence.

Most often, owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear and damage to threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type, as a rule, can be easily eliminated by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a needle file or a standard sanding cloth. In the most complex cases of breakdowns, a complete replacement of the failed cartridge is most often required.

How to remove a chuck from a drill (video)

For dismantling and disassembling the chuck of an electric drill you need to prepare a set of tools presented:

vice;
pliers;
screwdriver;
hammer;
small mallet;
chisel;
needle file and sandpaper;
a brush with soft bristles and an oiler;
a set of gas keys;
adjustable wrench;
awl;
file;
caliper.

The basic version of the tool set may vary slightly depending on the type of connection and the complexity of the dismantling work performed. Excessive force should not be used since in this case not only the external, but also the internal working part of the device can be irreparably damaged.

Replacing a drill chuck with your own hands

There are several most common problems that can be observed during the operation of the tool, and will require cartridge replacement:

quite often a fixed element falls. This problem occurs not only on old tools, but also on completely new models, which are characterized by a conical fastening of the cam part. As a rule, the fall of a part accompanies the process of drilling deep holes. In this case, when lifting the drill and freeing it from accumulated chips, the cartridge falls off the cone. This problem can be solved by increasing the tension of the cone joint. For this purpose, you need to heat the cartridge in oil until temperature indicators at 110 o C, and then place it on the fixing part of the cold instrument;

If, when performing work that is accompanied by the release of a significant amount of dust, chips or dirt, the clamping lips jam, then you need to properly disassemble the chuck, and then carefully, but as thoroughly as possible, clean and rinse all moving, working elements. Before assembling the part, it is very important to lubricate the internal parts with a brush and lithol. A good result is obtained by using a homemade protective casing that prevents clogging of the working parts;
If chuck runout is observed during drilling, the cause may be significant wear on the seat cone. An equally common cause of this phenomenon can be uneven wear of the cams, which must be replaced. If necessary, the broken cartridge is completely replaced.

Reassembling the disassembled part is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the rules for fastening to the tool.

How to change the chuck in a drill with your own hands (video)

The chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism, so the performance of the tool and the quality of the work performed will depend on its condition. It is quite possible to replace such a device yourself without having the skills or special knowledge, but in this case you need to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and adhere to the standard instructions for repair work.

An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute of both the home craftsman and the professional. Without this tool, it is difficult to carry out any work related to the production of something, as well as installation, dismantling, and so on.

Breakdown of a drill, even of a famous brand, eventually happens. And one of the most common failures of this power tool is the failure of the chuck: both the key and the self-clamping one.

Sooner or later, any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes unusable.

In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch, and so on, the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of attachments, are fastened using a cam-type device . The cam mechanism consists of 3 or 4 cams, through which the tool is held in the drill chuck. If the device is quick-clamping, then the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if it is a key device, it is tightened with a special key.

There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in metalworking production. They hold all kinds of tools needed for work.

Reasons for replacement:

Runout during rotation. This indicates wear on the cams or front shaft bearings.
Rotation on the shaft. The reason is damage to the thread, if the chuck is threaded, or wear of the tool cone.

In both cases it needs to be replaced.

Beating is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows:

The cutting tool does not hold well in the drill, or any equipment.
Drills jam (in the case when the cone is worn out).
The holes are of irregular shape.
The drill shanks wear out.

How to remove a chuck from an electric drill

The chuck can be attached to the spindle as follows:

Cone mount. When a Morse taper (instrumental taper) is used. In this case, the shaft is made in the form of a cone, well polished and minimal effort is required to fit it. Marking example: B10, where B - symbol cone, and the number 10 is the diameter of the cutting tool shank. This type of fastening is most often found in screwdrivers.
Threaded fastening. Threads can be metric or inch. If the M13 marking is stamped on the cartridge body, then the thread is metric, 13 mm. If it is inch - UNF indicating a diameter of ½ inch.

However, in order to protect the user 100%, the manufacturer of imported drills also fixes the chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely fastens it to the shaft.

The screw has a left-hand thread, and very often, when a drill is repaired by inexperienced people, the slot on the screw for the screwdriver is torn off out of ignorance, believing that it has a standard right-hand thread - so you need to unscrew it clockwise.

Knowing the design features of your own drill, removing the chuck does not seem to be a big problem.

To change this element You need to prepare the following tools:

Pipe wrench No. 2.
Medium sized hammer. Approximately 400−500 gr.
Spanners.
Vernier caliper No. 1, 2 or 3.
A screwdriver with the required blade shape and section.
Personal or velvet file.
Sandpaper.

This list shows the minimum set of tools. It is very possible that during the work you will need something additional.

Threaded connection

Procedure for dismantling:

Having secured the part of the equipment on which the cams are held with a pipe (gas) wrench No. 2, you need to rotate the shaft. The cartridge should unscrew easily after such “persistent” intervention.

Connection with a tool cone: dismantling step by step

Such dismantling is carried out using a hammer and a drift made of non-ferrous metal: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, hammers of this type are still found.

Soft metal will not cause damage to the equipment in the form of nicks and deformations.

You need to do the following:

Hold the drill with the handle up.
Gently tap the back of the cartridge around the entire circumference with a hammer.
After the device is dismantled, you need to clean the cone with fine sandpaper. Remove large nicks, if any, using a file.
The new cartridge is inserted into its regular place and fixed with a blow from a wooden hammer (mallet).

For old drills manufactured back in Soviet period, let's use one more method. In them, on the shaft, between the tool body and the chuck, there is a fairly large gap, and there are flats on the shaft.

Locksmiths, as a rule, acted as follows:

We inserted the key into these grooves.
The clamping tool was dismantled by hitting the open-end wrench with a hammer.

The method, of course, is not the safest, given that the key can fly off along a trajectory unplanned by the locksmith and cause injury. There is also a type of drill where a slot is made in the body into which a wedge is inserted to knock out the chuck. Such drills may have two cones: one in the chuck and the other in the drill. These instruments are impressive in size and weight.

Drills with a cone are considered more accurate in demanding drilling, since the Morse taper is made with high degree accuracy.

In addition, the conical chuck can be removed with a puller, since each such drill, which does not even have a threaded hole for a locking screw, has a through hole. And if you use a puller with a central pin and rest it against this hole, then by securing it to its counterpart, which has hooks in the form of powerful hooks, you can also remove the firmly attached cartridge. These pullers are used to remove, for example, bearings.

Replacement for drill Interskol

The Interskol drill is very comfortable and has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also common cause its choice by customers.

does not pose any particular problems:

You cannot hit the chuck itself with a hammer: you can not only break it, but also deform the spindle. This will lead to the need to disassemble the entire drill and repair it in a specialized workshop.

On some models of drills of this brand, the spindle (axis) on which the chuck is mounted has special grooves (flat) for an open-end wrench. This allows you to securely fix the axle before unscrewing.

If there are no grooves, and the method of hitting the hex key did not help, it is best to partially disassemble the drill by unscrewing all the screws and removing the cover of the tool body.

You can fix the shaft as follows:

Hold the large gear of the gearbox and the fan impeller with your palm. It is, of course, better to work with durable gloves.
Unscrew the equipment.

After removing the old tool, installing the new unit must be done in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the threads of the spindle and screw.

It is extremely undesirable to use Litol type lubricants, since when the next replacement comes, the difficulties will be even greater than if the threads were not lubricated at all. This should be done with graphite lubricant or simply machine oil.

How to remove the keyless chuck

This type of equipment was invented by Bosch. These types of devices are widely used in many drills from Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, as well as in screwdrivers. They allow you to easily and without special effort change drills, which is especially convenient when working with a large number of drills.

You will need:

Phillips screwdriver or straight.
Hexagonal L-shaped key.
Hammer.

You need to unscrew the locking screw. Screws come in different screwdriver sizes.
Clamp the hex key into the chuck with the short side.
The drill or screwdriver must be placed on the edge of the table (workbench), so that the device does not lie on the table.
Using a hammer, apply a sharp blow to the unclamped edge of the hexagon. Direction is counterclockwise.

Step-by-step instructions for analysis

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble it for the following reasons:

Severe blockage.
The cartridge is jammed.
Cam wear.

Practice shows that the simplest and most common method of disassembly can be carried out using a hammer drill.

Step-by-step instruction:

Remove the boot from the hammer drill.
We insert a small adapter.
We push the hammer drill's cams inward, expanding the chuck to the maximum.
Between the cartridge and the wall we place some kind of shock-absorbing material, a piece of structured polystyrene, for example, or rubber.
We press the hammer drill together with the disassembled chuck and shock absorber against the wall.
Turn on the hammer drill, putting it in impact mode.
After a few seconds, the cartridge parts will be untwisted, that is, the cartridge will be disassembled.
Now you should remove the cams and perform a visual inspection.

If a drill was used to drill into walls, then there is a high probability that dust, cement, small particles of brick, and so on will be present inside the equipment. It is necessary to remove all debris and, if necessary, wash the parts with kerosene. Then, after wiping the parts, lubricate them with grease.

It is important not to swap the cams. In order to avoid this, you should use markings, signing each of them, as well as the seats.

We push our fists forward.
We install a nut (consists of two crackers), with which you can use a wrench to unscrew and screw the cartridge into place.
We hide the cams inside the device by unscrewing it.
We install the cartridge clip in place.
We press in the clip. It can be done different ways, for example, using lathe. In this case, the front part of the equipment is clamped into the machine chuck, and the rear part is pressed by the tailstock. A simpler “home” method is as follows: take a massive metal plate, on which the disassembled equipment is placed. A thick washer made of non-ferrous metal is placed on its upper part. Applying light blows to the washer with a hammer, press the clip into place.

The unit is suitable for further use.

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