How to care for an aquatic turtle at home. How to Provide Good Care for a Sea Turtle

Principles of feeding aquatic turtles

Main set of products:

• River and sea low-fat fish (pollock, hake, cod, navaga, perch);
• Liver (beef, chicken, fish) - about once a week.

For adult animals big fish you need to cut it into pieces, crush the ridge, grind it, small fish can be fed whole. For young fish, the fish needs to be cut into small pieces along with the bones, having previously removed the ribs.
Addition to the main menu:

• Various raw seafood (shell shrimp, squid, octopus - tentacles only, mussels, oysters);
• Meat (crabs, frogs, fodder hairless mice, baby rats);
• Snails (helix aspera terrestrial, large pond snails, apple snails, coils) - feed small ones whole, large ones - without shell;
• Some insects, other living microorganisms (bugs, food cockroaches, earthworms and mealworms, hairless caterpillars, daphnia, fillies, bloodworms, gammarus, tubifex, woodlice);
• Some plant components (aquatic plants, fruits, vegetables, some types of cabbage);
• Special industrial feeds for certain types freshwater turtles (loose, granular, in the form of tablets, sticks, flakes, capsules).

Components of plant origin should not prevail over meat foods. For aquatic reptiles, plants are only one of the sources of vitamins and beneficial microelements. During cold seasons it is recommended to introduce specialized vitamin complexes for aquatic and sea turtles.
Under no circumstances should predator turtles be fed beef, pork, lamb meat, their derivatives - sausage, minced meat, pate and others. In addition to these prohibitions, you should not feed reptiles cheeses, dairy products, baked goods, or food intended for other animals. Such products can have a detrimental effect on their well-being and health.

Main set of products:

• Fresh greens - plants that are not toxic to turtles (lettuce, cabbage, dandelion leaves, various flowers, grass) - approximately 80% of the menu;
• Vegetables (zucchini, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes) - about 15% of the menu;
• Fruits (bananas, apples, pears) – the remaining 5%.

Addition to the main menu:

• Champignons and other easily digestible mushrooms;
• Plant crops (not a large number of sorrel, plantain, coltsfoot, lawn grass, thistle - leaves, clover, peas, timothy, sprouted oats, speedwell);
• Fruits (citrus fruits - orange, tangerine, mango, plum, apricot, peach, melon);
• Vegetables ( bell pepper, beets, onions, carrot tops, squash, pumpkin, artichoke, horseradish - a small amount, legumes)
• Berries (watermelon, strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, edible wild berries);
• Bran, sunflower seeds (not fried), dry yeast, dry seaweed;
• Special dry food for land breeds (Wardley, Tetra, Sera);
• Hard-boiled chicken egg – once a week;
• Snails, slugs, insects - once a month.

Periodically add calcium supplements to your pet's menu, and during the cold season, special multivitamins.
Note! All plant food should be fed exclusively raw. Do not use heat treatment.
Never overfeed your pets, but also do not limit the list of products to 1-2 components. The food must be balanced and must include all the necessary vitamins, otherwise there is a high risk of dangerous diseases, disturbances in growth, development, obesity or exhaustion, death of the animal.
Many breeders have a question: should a turtle be given water?
Land turtles are not adapted to take in water. Usually, when you try to give reptiles water, liquid flows out of their mouths. If dry food predominates in your pet's diet, animals may experience thirst more often than their relatives, who eat mainly vegetables and fruits.
To prevent dehydration, experienced owners advise using two methods:

• It is necessary to include succulent plant foods in your pet’s menu as often as possible.
• Another way to give an animal water to drink is to bathe it. Optimal bathing time for land turtles– 30-50 minutes. The water should not reach the level of the nostrils. With proper bathing, the reptile's body is sufficiently saturated with moisture.

It should be borne in mind that in markets, as well as in pet stores, turtles usually experience dehydration, so after purchasing, it is recommended that the first thing you do is give your new pet a bath so that it receives required amount water.

The main menu of omnivorous reptiles includes food of plant and animal origin in equal proportions.
It is important to select a menu depending on the subspecies of reptile. For example, animal food consisting of terrestrial inhabitants (feeding mice, baby rats, frogs, insects, snails, slugs) is suitable for land animals, and fish and seafood are suitable for aquatic animals.
The situation is the same with foods of plant origin. Land breeds must eat land plants, vegetable crops, some fruits, while aquatic ones are more suitable for algae and other aquatic plants.

Distinctive feeding features of small and adult individuals

There are some differences in feeding between small and adult reptiles. Young turtles grow very quickly, so you need to feed them daily, while adults need to eat 2-3 times a week, eating all the food to the end.
The diet of young animals should be as varied as possible, be sure to include vitamin D, which prevents the development of rickets, calcium, necessary for proper shell growth, multivitamins, and minerals.
There are situations when a pet is forced to go without food and moisture for some time. There are also our own here distinctive features, relative to the age of the individual. Adults can go without food for up to two weeks without experiencing any discomfort. Young turtles, including three-day-old babies, can go without food for up to a week.

• You need to feed your pets regularly. You cannot starve them for no apparent reason (such as moving, forced absence of the owner, etc.);
• Under no circumstances should you overfeed your turtle. If your pet is full and refuses an additional portion, do not insist!
• Pregnant individuals need to be fed at least once a day, similar to young animals. They require vitamin D, calcium, and multivitamins appropriate for their species;
• You cannot give a land animal specialized food for aquatic turtles, and vice versa!
• Food is not recommended to be given cold; it must be brought to temperature environment before feeding your pet;
• For aquatic turtles, food can be thrown directly into the aquarium, but be sure to make sure that there is no excess that will force you to change the water.
• Land animals can be trained to eat from tweezers.
• If your pet refuses to eat for more than two weeks, you should take him to the vet immediately.
• If possible, it is advisable to put turtles in the aquarium aquarium fish(guppies, goldfish, swordtails) to maintain the hunting instinct.
• In the absence of algae, it is permissible to feed aquatic reptiles with lettuce or dandelion leaves.
• Young individuals prefer mainly food of animal origin, while older individuals are more inclined to eat plant foods.
• For supporting sufficient level minerals turtles are given bone meal daily, which is sold in pet stores. For an adult reptile, the daily dose is 5 g of flour;
• To maintain the shell in a healthy condition, it is sprayed with a special spray “Nature’s vita-sprey reptile” once every two days;
• Dry food should be selected based on its composition. Low quality feed is not recommended due to the lack of vitamins. It is not recommended to buy food containing fishmeal. You can give dry food to your pet no more than 3 times a day;
• It is preferable to feed vitamins before the main meal, when the reptile feels hungry;
• Oil vitamins can be dripped onto dry food. After it is saturated with the solution, throw it into the water.

Video

The world of turtles is amazingly diverse. Very tiny and huge, land and water, brightly and effectively colored and having completely inconspicuous colors - all these reptiles inhabit our planet. Today we will talk about what it means to keep aquatic turtles at home.

Types of turtles

The family Emydidae includes about ninety-five species, grouped into thirty-three genera, which live in freshwater bodies of America, Europe, Asia and North-West Africa. Many aquatic members of the family have bright colors, beautifully colored heads, legs and shells.

Today we will focus on two types of these animals, which are most often bred at home. This is the Far Eastern trionix and Pond slider. These are cold-blooded animals that need warmth balanced diet, with the obligatory addition of vitamins and minerals. About what to feed water turtle at home, we will tell you a little later.

Red-eared or swamp individuals are kept as pets. They are distinguished by their small size and relative ease of care. Despite its small size, this reptile lives for quite a long time.

Water at home

Both experienced aquarists and beginners in this business get this. Red-eared water turtles at home do not cause much concern to the owner. They are small in size and have a fairly long lifespan.

The reptile got its name from the two spots that are located on the sides of the head. They can be yellow, deep orange or bright red. The length of the shell can vary from 11 cm to 60 cm. This depends on the age of the turtle. It has an oval-round, streamlined shape. The entire shell is covered with horn-shaped plates-scutes. The toes end in sharp claws and are connected by membranes. The head is covered with soft skin.

The main factors that contribute to the comfortable keeping of reptiles at home are temperature, lighting (including ultraviolet radiation), and water filtration.

Trionics

Another representative of water turtles that aquarists love to keep at home. Trionix is ​​a soft-bodied reptile with a long neck, which distinguishes it from other representatives of its large family. Its paws have three toes with sharp and strong claws. The structural features of Trionix are due to its aquatic lifestyle. They spend most of their time buried in soft soil. This may be silt, fine sand or small stones. In this way they lie in wait for prey.

Setting up an aquarium

Water turtles at home first of all need an aquarium. An aquaterrarium should become their home. It must be horizontal, and its length must be at least twice more height, since for this type of reptile the area of ​​their “house” is more important, not the volume.

Turtles grow very quickly, so choose a spacious aquaterrarium so that your pet can move freely in it. The water part should occupy about 2/3 of the entire area. It is advisable to make the “shore” of the pool flat, as in natural conditions so that your pet can easily go to the island of land.

sushi island

The size of this island depends on the size of your pet. It should fit completely there freely. It is necessary to take into account that the island must be shaped in such a way that the water flowing from the turtle does not stagnate on it. It must be made of non-slip materials. Today, such islands can be offered to you in pet stores. This will save your time on its construction.

An aquarium requires a filter to purify the water and, without ultraviolet light, turtles do not absorb calcium well. The bottom of the aquarium is laid out with pebbles or coarse soil. The reptile will definitely taste the soil with its teeth, so the size of the pebbles should be larger than the turtle’s head. When purchasing, find out what breed it belongs to. Depends on temperature regime water in the aquarium.

Lighting and ventilation

It is impossible to oversaturate the terrarium with light, but you should not skimp on lighting. Water turtles kept at home especially appreciate the sun. They vitally need additional ultraviolet radiation, since its deficiency can provoke the development of various diseases. Today, such UV lamps can be selected from a huge range of products from domestic and foreign manufacturers. They have different power and price categories. The choice of lamp depends on the volume of the terrarium, the number of turtles living in it, etc. Pet store sellers will give you detailed advice. But experienced aquarists recommend purchasing such devices with five percent UVB.

Water turtles spend the whole day in the aquaterrarium. At home, your pet can only be placed in another container with water while cleaning or feeding. You should not let him go on the floor, as the animal may get some kind of infection or be injured.

Proper care of a water turtle at home involves installing a powerful filter. Even if it is available, you should not forget to partially or completely replace the water at least once a week.

The aquaterrarium must be equipped with good ventilation. But don't confuse ventilation with drafts. These reptiles are very afraid of them, they can get colds.

What to feed aquatic turtles at home?

This question worries many lovers of these cute animals. It should be noted that it must be taken very seriously. What you feed your water turtle at home determines 80% of your pet’s well-being and life expectancy.

The diet should include low-fat raw fish, without sharp bones. It is cut into small pieces, depending on the size of your pet. You shouldn’t limit yourself to just fish. It must be alternated with seafood; turtles will not refuse either beef liver or earthworms.

Occasionally you can diversify your diet with chicken or beef. All products are given raw. For adult turtles, plant foods can be added to the menu. These can be lettuce leaves, pieces of pear, cucumber or apple. But most often, water turtles at home eat special dry food, since it contains an ideal balance of all necessary vitamins and microelements.

Pets that are less than ten centimeters in length should be fed every day, and individuals exceeding this size should be fed no more than three times a week. The portion is calculated based on the amount of food that the animal eats in thirty to forty minutes. During feeding, it is advisable to place the animals in a special container with water, so as not to clog the water in the turtle’s permanent home. We hope you have learned what aquatic turtles eat at home. These tips will help keep your pet healthy. long years.

Water purification

Most often, aquatic representatives of the family feed on perishable food. In addition, the natural excretions of animals heavily pollute the terrarium. Previously, owners of such pets had to change the water several times a week. Now, thanks to the fact that modern filters of various designs are on sale today, caring for them has become much easier.

For a small aquarium with small specimens, a regular internal filter equipped with a sponge will be sufficient. Today there are many such filters that are suitable for small bodies of water. They do their job perfectly and purify water from small and medium-sized dirt particles.

IN Lately Special devices have appeared and become very popular, significantly simplifying the care of aquaterrariums. These are “biological filters”. They use special bacteria that remove nitrogen compounds.

In addition, the pet store will offer you specialized fillers, which, as a rule, are produced by foreign manufacturers. They are helping for a long time maintain water in ideal condition and prevent the development of bacteria in it.

What should you pay attention to?

If your turtle is not cared for properly, your pet may get sick. The owner should be very attentive to the appearance of symptoms such as:

• crooked or soft shell;
• swollen or constantly closed eyes;
• peeling of the skin;
• lack of appetite;
• runny nose.

A sick pet moves little, spends a lot of time on the island of land, and often refuses food. In such cases, you cannot hesitate - he urgently needs to be shown to a veterinarian. To treat a turtle, you will need to find a specialist who deals specifically with these animals, since it is difficult to diagnose them.

Caring for a water turtle should be a pleasure for the owner, only in this case both the person and the animal will be satisfied. If you are too busy at work, and therefore circumstances do not allow you to give the turtle the attention it deserves, hold off on purchasing it. Otherwise, keeping such a cute pet will turn into a boring chore for you, which will lead to illness and even death.

In many aquariums you can find small turtles, the size of which does not exceed 10 centimeters. Their content is not required special conditions, since an aquarium for turtles is suitable for a small container with a water level of up to 20 centimeters. Aquarium turtles love to walk along the bottom, but they do not have gills to breathe underwater, so they periodically need to rise to the surface for oxygen and the water level should not be too high. If the level is high, they simply will not be able to reach the surface in time and will die.

As a substrate in an aquarium for various types For turtles, river sand and fine gravel are ideal, but most species can do without soil at all. It is advisable to place a couple of plants as they will provide additional food for the turtles and will decorate the habitat of your turtles. In addition, such an aquarium will look better.

Turtles like to actively scratch the soil in search of food or shelter, so they can damage your plants. To place them, you need to use pots, or even limit yourself to small floating plants. Such small turtles are constantly in the water, and appear on the shore only when they lay eggs.

Even if you don't plant them, make a small island out of driftwood or stone. Place a lamp over the island so they can crawl ashore and bask in the sun. This is necessary due to the fact that all turtles are cold-blooded and their mobility is very dependent on body temperature.

A proper aquarium for turtles should have large area bottom, height is not the main criterion, since most turtles need a water level of 15-20 centimeters, and an island above the water level is also needed in the aquarium. Most people keep turtles in aquaterrariums, which contain both land and water parts. The use of an additional heater in the form of a powerful incandescent lamp or infrared lamp is necessary for turtles.

Feeding aquarium turtles

IN natural environment Many species of turtles feed on a variety of plants, fish or shellfish. Difficult all year round Feed them only live food, so you can use a mixture of chopped fish, shrimp and shellfish. Sometimes you can feed your turtles small pieces of beef. IN summer time The use of only live food is encouraged. The best choice is for snails that they can chew easily.

Turtles spend most of their free time hunting and obtaining food, so they definitely need live food that they can catch. If there is no hunting, they may get bored and stop moving altogether. Moreover, live food contains a large amount of phosphorus and calcium, which are vital for turtles to keep their shell strong. To do this, coral sand is added to the soil, grains of sand from which turtles often eat. Captive turtles often have softer shells, so you can sometimes add eggshells, which will be useful to them for the strength of their shell.

Despite the importance of live food and meat in the diet of turtles, they must also be fed with plant foods to replenish the supply of vitamins in the body. Turtles can sometimes be given lettuce, cabbage and other greens.

Aquarium turtles go to the toilet almost immediately after eating, so it is best to use a different container for feeding. At first they will be against it, but over time they will get used to it. At the very least, this method will save you from daily cleaning of the aquaterrarium, which over time will turn into a real landfill. If kept properly, turtles only need to be fed once a day, although it may take them several hours to eat.

Only a female and a male can live in one turtle aquarium. The two males will constantly be in conflict, and in the end, only one individual will remain alive. The stronger male kills or seriously wounds the opponent, who soon dies. If you keep individuals of different sexes, it is necessary to sometimes remove the female from the aquarium, since the annoying male can become very annoying to her.

Types of small aquarium turtles

Mud turtle

The silt musk turtle is unpretentious in keeping. This small turtle does not exceed 10 cm in length; it can be kept in a container with a bottom area of ​​at least 150 square centimeters filled with water to a height of 15 centimeters. It is necessary to ensure that the water level does not exceed 15 cm too much; it will be difficult for the mud turtle to float to the surface. And of course, let’s not forget about the island above the water where the turtle can warm up and gain strength.

The ornamental red-eared turtle is one of the most popular species of freshwater reptiles kept at home. In this article, you will learn what equipment is needed to keep turtles, how to care for them, how to feed them, and much more.

Are red-eared turtles ornamental?

To answer this question, let's look at what the word "decorative" generally means when applied to pets. The decorative animal does not perform any useful actions, it is started only for the purpose of observation and communication. The decorative animal does not guard the house and does not catch mice.

Let's take a rabbit as an example. There is a wild rabbit, there is a domestic rabbit, which is used for food, and there is a decorative rabbit - for keeping in an apartment as pet. The word “decorative” is often associated with dwarfism (as many small breed dogs are called decorative), but this attribute is not necessary. Thus, to the question of whether a red-eared turtle intended for keeping in an apartment can be called decorative, we will answer in the affirmative.

Are red-eared turtles also dwarf turtles?

On the Internet you can find questions: “How to distinguish a red-eared turtle from a decorative one?”, “Are red-eared turtles dwarf?” etc. The fact is that some unscrupulous sellers, they can even be called scammers, sell ordinary red-eared turtles, passing them off as dwarf turtles and calling them decorative ones. They give recommendations for care - feed dried gamarus once every 4 days or feed young animals 1-2 times a week.

Indeed, turtles purchased from such sellers and living in recommended conditions do not grow. How long can a red-eared dog not eat? decorative turtle? The animal may starve for up to several weeks, but the owner will consider that this is normal, because the seller advised feeding less often! Turtles live in constant hunger, they do not have enough energy to grow, only to maintain a semblance of life. Animals die after a few years from exhaustion.

If you bought a “dwarf ornamental” red-eared turtle, which, according to the seller, will never grow up and will remain the same small and cute, then know that you have been deceived. There are no such turtles. Now let's talk about what a red-eared turtle is, how to care for it and how to feed it properly.

Description

The ornamental red-eared turtle came to us from the northeastern part of Mexico and the southern states of the United States. Thanks to their unpretentiousness, the habitat of red-eared turtles has expanded quite significantly. It can be found today in Europe, Africa, Asia and Australia.

The turtle got its name because of the two red (sometimes orange or yellow) spots behind its eyes. Turtles grow relatively small - up to 30 cm in diameter, but giants can also be found - up to 60 cm. In the first 2 years of life, the turtle grows intensively - up to 10 cm per year! With age, growth slows down, and the animal's shell adds 1-2 cm per year.

The lower part of the shell is dark with yellow stripes and edging, and the color of the upper part changes with age and can be various shades of green - from dark green to olive and even yellow-brown.

Aquaterrarium

Turtles are often recommended as a simple animal for beginners, and they are inexpensive - 100-150 rubles. But is the red-eared red-eared so unpretentious at home? it will require both labor and material costs, because for the purchase necessary equipment you will have to shell out 10-20 thousand rubles.

The decorative red-eared turtle can be kept either alone or in a group. It should be noted that to keep one individual you need an aquaterrarium with a volume of at least 110 liters. If you decide to purchase several turtles, they should be approximately the same age and size. In a group consisting of only males, conflicts will constantly arise, so pay attention to the gender of the animals in advance.

The water in the aquarium should be warm, 26-28 °C. The height of the water level must exceed the width of the animal’s shell, otherwise the turtle will not be able to roll over. You need to change the water 1-2 times a week; if you purchase a filter, you can do this less often - 1-2 times a month. An aquarium heater is required to maintain the temperature.

Land in an aquaterrarium must make up at least 25% of the total area. The shore of the island should rise at an angle from the very bottom. The land should be located so that even a grown turtle cannot get out into the wild - at least 25 cm from the top edge of the terrarium.

Lighting in an aquaterrarium

In nature, the decorative red-eared turtle spends a lot of time on the shore, under the rays of the sun. They are replaced in captivity by a UV lamp. It is installed at a height of about half a meter above the aquaterarium. At first, turn on the lamp 1-2 times a week for a few minutes, gradually increasing the time to half an hour daily. UV rays disinfect without a special lamp the animal begins to get sick.

The terrarium must also be equipped with a regular incandescent lamp for lighting and heating. The air temperature on the island should not rise above 30 °C.

Nutrition

How to feed a red-eared turtle? In order for a turtle to actively grow and be healthy, it needs to eat well. IN at a young age turtles prefer animal food, and with age they begin to eat more and more plant foods.

Young animals are fed daily, after two years - 2-3 times a week. You can feed them either special food purchased at a pet store or natural food. It could be:

• Poultry, beef, horse meat (pork and lamb are not suitable due to their fat content).
• Offal (liver, heart, lungs, stomach, etc.).
• Lean fish (soaked for a few minutes in hot water) or small live fish, shrimp, squid.
• Snail meat.
• Insects. Not poisonous! Grasshoppers, caterpillars, beetles, bloodworms, coretra, large daphnia.
• Live or dried hamarus.
• Aquatic plants - duckweed, hornwort, ceratopteris, ludwigia.
• Vegetables and herbs - cucumber, lettuce, clover, dandelion.

Homemade food

You can make your own combination feed. Its composition may vary in different recommendations, but usually it is something like this:

1. Edible gelatin (30 g per half glass of water).
2. Fish fillet - 150 g.
3. Squid fillet - 100 g.
4. Milk - 150 ml.
5. Raw chicken egg - 2 pcs.
6. Carrots - 70 g.
7. Apple - 50 g.
8. Cabbage - 50 g.
9. - 10 tablets.
10. "Tetravit" - 20 drops.

The mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for a week. Before use, the cut piece must be warmed to room temperature. The indicated amount is enough for 7-10 days for an adult turtle. Bone meal or crushed eggshells should be given daily as a source of calcium.

If you choose a ready-made industrial product, carefully read its composition. Food consisting only of dried hamarus or bloodworms is not suitable.

Feeding turtles in the water. The remaining food should be removed from the terrarium 20-30 minutes after the meal.

The main mistakes of owners of red-eared turtles

So, a decorative red-eared turtle has appeared in your house. Caring for this animal is not as easy as it seems. Very often, new owners have little understanding of the peculiarities of keeping an animal. Let's look at their main mistakes.

1. "For a small turtle, a small aquarium." This reasoning is fundamentally incorrect. The animal must swim freely at any age, and turtles grow very quickly.
2. “An aquatic turtle can live in a regular aquarium without land” is another mistake. Without an island of land, a red-eared turtle will simply drown!
3. "UV lamp is optional." Once again, no, without UV rays, the turtle will suffer from vitamin D deficiency and begin to get sick.
4. You cannot feed your turtle the same thing, for example, only meat or only gamarus. The diet should be varied.
5. You cannot run water in the aquaterrarium. It must be clean, no turbidity or film! IN dirty water young animals may refuse food.
6. Do not remove peeling plates from the shell, and do not clean it with a stiff brush.
7. Do not buy two males or turtles that differ significantly in size at the same time, they will fight and conflict. And constant stress will lead to illness.
8. Do not hibernate your turtle yourself. At home, if the recommended temperature is maintained, the turtle will not hibernate.
9. All accessories for cleaning the aquarium must be separate; it is unacceptable to use sponges that you use to clean your room or kitchen.
10. Do not keep your turtle in the same tank as fish unless they are food for the reptile.
11. Do not let your turtle go for a walk on the floor, it can quickly catch a cold.

The choice of a pet is decided long before going to the pet store. Some people like active animals, but slow animals also have many adherents.

Their unusual appearance and emphasized phlegmatic nature attract lovers of wildlife.

The “guest” of our review is the red-eared turtle. Let's consider caring for her at home and proper feeding.

Short description

This one is also known as yellow-bellied. The main natural habitat is the northern and central regions North America, as well as southwest South America. IN large quantities distributed on the Iberian Peninsula and South Africa.

The species got its name because of the noticeable red (optionally orange) stripe that runs from the eyes and down to the neck. Note that the colors are very varied, and instead of a stripe there may be large bright spots, complemented by a narrow “ribbon” at the chin.

The top of the shell (the so-called carapace) is round in shape and smooth to the touch. Its olive green color is “diluted” with yellow and black lines. The bottom of the shell (plastron) is yellowish in color, interspersed with blue spots. Young individuals have a bright green carapace, which begins to darken as they grow. The same goes for spots and “signature” stripes.

In terms of size, this species is medium: the length of the carapace ranges from 19–30 cm (domestic specimens have a larger carapace, usually 25–28 cm). Females are much larger than males.
At the "red girls" perfectly developed sense of smell and vision- it has been proven that they distinguish colors and the smallest details at a distance of 35–40 m. The sense of touch is also in order - if there is a choice, the turtle will easily settle on more tasty food. This is a kind of compensation for not particularly developed hearing. The ears are closed, and a layer of skin muffles the sound. The reptile can only distinguish vibrations or dull sounds.

Important! Often purchased copy- not the only one in the “collection”. Such newcomers are not placed in a common aquarium immediately, but after a 2-month quarantine in a separate container with all the conditions. If it turns out that he was never accepted, then the “temporary building” becomes a permanent home.

Such pets are “taciturn”; the most that can be heard from them is a weak squeak, a quiet snort or hiss.

They prefer leisurely swimming, which alternates with long rests on various kinds of snags. There they love to “catch” the sun’s rays.

Purchase rules

If you decide to purchase such an “armadillo,” be patient and take your choice seriously.

The best place to purchase would be a pet store, where they can give sensible advice. Unfortunately, there are not many such establishments, so you have to rely on your own knowledge.

Pay attention to the following points:

1. Condition of skin and shell. There should be no blood, scratches or unnecessary stains on them.
2. Take a closer look at your eyes. In a healthy individual, they open normally, without traces of “sourness” or cloudiness.
3. Don't forget to inspect your nose (for discharge). Bubbles mixed with saliva, as well as strange and frequent sniffles are excluded.
4. Turtle activity. Cheerful movements indicate excellent health.
5. It is advisable to arrange another “exam”. Check if the selected specimen dives in the water. If not, it may be a consequence of pneumonia.

Once you have made your choice, be sure to ask for a receipt. It may come in handy if the animal turns out to be sick and a return follows. And when crossing the border, it obviously won’t be superfluous.

If it is possible to buy a turtle from a nursery, then this will be at least some guarantee that it was kept in normal conditions and healthy.

Did you know? In Australia, this species is recognized as...pest! Large “herds” of these turtles deprive many species of local animals of their food supply.

How to determine age and gender

The main parameter by which age is calculated is the length of the shell. It is measured “from edge to edge”, with a ruler or tape measure. The circumference is not taken into account.
There is one nuance here. The fact is that the figures obtained can only indicate the approximate age of the animal. With proper care, growth is very intense and large in appearance. pet may in fact turn out to be the same age as a smaller reptile living in slightly worse conditions.

If you keep this fact in mind, then the indicators will be as follows:

• 6 cm is the norm for a one-year-old individual;
• at 2 years, females “grow” up to 9 cm, while males begin to lag behind, reaching 7.5–8 cm;
• “three-year-olds” grow, respectively, to 14 and 10 cm;
• 4 years: 16 and 12 cm;
• the five-year-old “celebrator” is indicated by shells of 18 and 14 cm;
• a six-year-old female barely fits within 20 cm, while males remain at 17 cm.

No less important are the questions of how to determine the sex of the red-eared slider you like and what to look for in this case. We have already mentioned the more impressive “dimensions” of females. They can also be recognized by their short tail. A closer examination will indicate the characteristic location of the cloaca - in males it is much closer to the edge of the tail. Among the indirect sexual characteristics are the length and shape of the claws (“men” have large and curved ones), as well as the bend of the plastron - in females this edge is straight, while in the opposite sex there is a small internal “hollow”.

Important! Having bought such a handsome man in warm weather, deliver it home in a box with holes for ventilation. In cold weather, you will have to put a heating pad there or even hold the animal close to you. But wrapping it in rags is useless.

Lifespan in captivity

With attentive owners, such “yellow bellies” can survive 35–40 years. Rarely, but still there are 45-year-old “centenarians”. If there have been short-term disturbances in light or thermal regime, then this period is reduced to 30.
A good food supply and care (and, if necessary, treatment) - all this affects how long the popular red-eared turtles live in normal home conditions. In nature, they last much less, on average 17–20 years.

Choosing and arranging housing

First you will have to acquire a voluminous one. For an adult, you will need 120–150 liters, and if there are two pets, then 200. For kids, 50 liters will be enough for the first time. The container is selected not too wide and high, but at the same time large in length.

To turn an aquarium into a full-fledged turtle “housing” you will need:

1. Water heater (they try to use 100-watt ones).
2. 40 or 60 W incandescent light bulbs placed at a height of more than 25 cm. With a lower “landing” the light will hit your eyes.
3. Special ultraviolet lamp for reptiles (UVB 5–7%). For little ones they need 10%.
4. External (for adults) or internal filter suitable for young animals.
5. Thermometer.

Did you know? Leatherback turtles are considered true giants. At 2 m in length, they can weigh more than half a ton! This miracle lives in the east of Australia or on the northern coast of Brazil and Venezuela.

The following requirements are put forward to him:

1. Convenient descent and ascent. One of the sides always smoothly goes into the water.
2. Safety. The turtle should not get stuck between the land and the wall of the aquarium. Stability is no less important - a fairly strong reptile can turn over an unsecured “island”.
3. The presence of a slightly rough surface on which it is convenient to move. On flat surfaces the paws will slip.
4. The material from which the “rest area” is installed must be safe, not overheat and not pollute the water and air with toxins.

Singles or need neighbors

These turtles are not very friendly in nature. Fights for them (especially in mature age) - The usual thing. Dividing up territory or trying to resolve the “sexual issue” often ends in wounds varying degrees or severed tails. The risk of such serious injuries forces owners to distribute representatives of this species in different aquariums.

When this is not possible, and a couple of individuals end up in the same “vessel,” you have to resort to a trick. Barriers or plastic walls are placed through which aggressive inhabitants simply will not see each other.

Important! Remind children to wash their hands after playing with the family pet. Still, “shellfish” live in a different environment, and various bacteria can accumulate on their skin.

If they do spot a competitor, but are physically unable to reach him, this can result in stress. You can smooth out its consequences with abundant feeding.

What do they eat

It will be useful for beginners to know what to feed the predatory red-eared turtle living at home. Yes they - omnivorous carnivores, and at a young age the basis of the diet is food of animal origin. A gradual transition to plant foods occurs as we age, and in the future its share increases.

The diet, as well as the amount of food, depends on age:

1. Up to 1 year of age, a single daily feeding is required. Both soft animal food and special food along with plant foods are used. Take 2-3 small pieces (1 cubic cm).
2. An adult “tenant” can be fed after 1–2 days. During this period, 50% plant feed is considered the norm. Although this proportion may vary slightly, turtles also have individual tastes. The dosage is reduced to the same 2-3 pieces, but already up to 3 cubic meters. cm.

Feed is given raw and not too warm (room temperatures are enough).

The “menu” can include the following products:

• any lean river fish;
• carrots and lettuce leaves;
• various insects - usually woodlice, small locusts or legless crickets, bloodworms, woodlice, earthworms and daphnia crustaceans;
• liver - beef heart or liver is considered a delicacy (as are chicken hearts);
• small mice and frogs, tadpoles or;
• dandelion, clover and mallow, suitable aquatic fauna include pistia and duckweed.

• bread;
• fruits;
• cheeses;
• meat in the form of minced meat and sausages; chicken and pork (along with lamb and beef) are also “taboo”;
• fatty fish.

Did you know? A turtle named Big Head Big head") in 2014 predicted the outcome of one of the World Cup matches. The animal confidently chose the feeder under the Brazilian flag, and the national team of this country confidently beat the Croats a little later.

Dry food, which is so actively offered in pet stores, requires careful use; its share in the diet is reduced to a minimum (and only if the diet is somewhat disrupted). But ground bone meal will come in handy - kids are given a pinch every day to hold it together. bony skeleton and shell. Their older “colleagues” are given a teaspoon, but once a week.

Care and hygiene

Of exceptional importance in the content is water. Animals sleep in it, eat and “relieve their needs” there, so a filter alone is not enough - the liquid is changed. A complete replacement (with 3- and 4-fold “rinsing” of the walls) is carried out once a month, and a less thorough one - at intervals of 2 weeks.

It happens that the filter is broken. Then cleaning is done twice as often. In any case, it will be used for wiping baking soda. More aggressive means are not suitable. Naturally, during this treatment the turtle is temporarily transferred to a container filled with water. All snags, bushes and stones are removed. Dirt from them is washed off or wiped with a rag.

Capacity with clean water filled so that the pet can calmly roll over, suddenly finding itself on its back.

The optimal water temperature is +23…+28 °C. If you turn it up more, your pet will begin to overheat. The lower limit is +20 °C, but it is better not to let it get to that level. To stably maintain the required “degrees”, turn on the heater.

Important! It is advisable to leave a fresh portion of tap water for at least a day. During this time, the most harmful compounds will have time to “evaporate”.

Now about light mode. Both lamps are turned on all day, for 10–12 hours. At the same time, on the shore equipped for recreation it should be +32…+33 °C. At night the lamps are turned off.
Take into account the fact that glass and plastic absorb some of the heat, and you need to set the light so that the reptile receives more rays.

You can often hear about sunbathing. The procedure is good and useful, but with its own subtleties. So, the first stay on fresh air in warm weather (at least +20 °C) it should be limited to 5 minutes. This time can be gradually increased. Only in this case should the turtle be able to go into the shade - keeping it in the sun for a long time will only overheat it.

Hibernation period

IN natural conditions“Red-eared birds” actually go to sleep when it gets cold. But for domestic specimens this condition may not be required. Many owners, due to inexperience, miss this nuance, which leads to sad results. Let's figure out why.

When hibernating, “wild” individuals burst into a layer of silt or leaves at the bottom of a shallow, but large-area reservoir. This achieves a balance between temperature and air access. Oxygen enters through membranes located in the mouth, cloaca or pharynx.

Did you know? Representatives of the species box turtles They love mushrooms, and not only edible ones. Perhaps that is why there are so many of them - Mexicans are afraid to eat the meat of these small and rather nimble “countrymen”.

It is extremely difficult to achieve such balance in an aquarium, and there is no need for it. Pets, receiving plentiful food and constant access to warmth, simply do not require long sleep. In addition, hibernation significantly weakens their body.

For young individuals, hibernation is even harmful - growth stops, and it will no longer be possible to “catch up” with its pace. The conclusion is simple: you cannot forcibly “euthanize” a turtle; without proper experience, this will cause more harm than good.

Diseases: prevention and treatment

Almost all diseases are the result of errors in care or nutrition. To avoid such problems, do not forget about preventive measures. These include:

• balanced diet appropriate for age;
• keeping in clean and warm water;
• daylight hours lasting a maximum of 12 hours;
• If possible, separate keeping of several individuals to prevent injury;
• regular operation of the filter.

The procedures are simple, but there are different situations, which can result in all sorts of illnesses. Let's look at what diseases there are in red-eared turtles, how to recognize them by symptoms and what to consider for treatment. For clarity, these data are supplemented with photos.

Important! Upon contact with a person, a sick animal can transmit dangerous salmonellosis. The risk of such infection is small, but it should not be discounted. In addition, a seemingly harmless turtle can also spread ascariasis.

Often, as a result of a fight or contact with a sharp corner, snags appear wounds. They are immediately treated, followed by a change of water. If you are late, there is a risk of infection or sepsis.
Sepsis- This is blood poisoning. A sharp decline in activity should be alarming. Conduct an immediate inspection, paying attention Special attention plastron and paws (these areas may turn red). Treated with strong antibiotics.

Refusal to eat and constantly closed eyes indicate the appearance of ulcerative formations in the mouth. Gram-negative bacteria “worked” here. Primary treatment comes down to cleaning the problem area with gauze soaked in an antimicrobial composition. Diseased tissue is removed. The veterinarian prescribes a course of antibiotics. Difficulties may also arise with the shell. Various kinds bacterial infections, introduced after an injury or as a result of a burn, reveal themselves by softening the “armor” with hemorrhages against the background of a noticeable stench. The scheme is the same - treatment, removal of dead tissue and subsequent isolation. For a large area of ​​damage, different drugs are used.

Lack of calcium leads to deformation of the shell and weakening of the paws. In the early stages, injections of compounds saturated with this element, a change in diet and thermal regime help. In advanced cases, the outcome can be tragic.
If the red-eared turtle has become lethargic, does not eat for a long time and sleeps most of the day, it may come down to treatment pneumonia. Among its other signs - copious discharge from the nose and mouth, characteristic “chest” wheezing, unnaturally raised head. Here everything is decided by the veterinarian who prescribes intramuscular or intravenous injections.

Did you know? Aborigines from tropical islands attributed to shells magical properties. Moreover, they tried to read the prophecies that were allegedly written on the “armor”.

Dirty water can lead to abscess ear. It can be recognized by noticeable swelling on the head. This is one of the most difficult diseases - a competent operation with a long recovery is required.

Reproduction at home

Females are considered sexually mature at the age of 2–5 years, whose shell has grown to 12 cm. For males, these figures are 3–4 years and 10 cm, respectively.

As expected, the games begin with courtship - the male swims for a long time near his partner, turning his muzzle towards her. At the same time, he quickly moves his paws. The time of year doesn't matter.

Take a closer look at the female: if she has become overly active and is trying to leave the aquarium, you need to probe her immediately. Having felt the eggs between the hind legs and the shell, prepare a place for laying, not forgetting to isolate the “father”. The need for ultraviolet radiation and calcium increases.

The nest is usually located on land, having prepared a small hole. Seeing that the turtle began to spend a lot of time there, you can calm down - so far everything is normal. There can be up to 20 eggs in a clutch.
“Extraordinary situations” also arise. For example, having laid 1-2 eggs, the female may delay the clutch, at the same time becoming weaker and losing her appetite. Then you will have to contact a veterinarian, otherwise they will simply harden. Another nuisance is discharge into the water. The masonry breaks much less often, which is immediately noticeable by the smell.

Important! It is better to rinse the new “tenant” in a warm bath immediately after purchase. This will prevent the occurrence of certain diseases.

During the season there may be 3-4 clutches. If the process is successful, crumbs of 2.5 cm are born. A yolk mark is visible on their shell. It is not removed - at first the baby feeds on it. The offspring are separated from the adults by pre-heating the water and land by a couple of “above-plan” degrees. The diet focuses on food rich in calcium (it is advisable to take products for turtles).

Now you know how to deal with a brightly colored reptile. We hope that she will delight the whole family for many years without causing unnecessary trouble. More colors every day!