Correct installation of the air conditioner. Installing an air conditioner yourself - a detailed overview of installation and correct connection

Installation tips. Where is the best place to install an air conditioner?

Before buying a split system in Krasnodar, it is advisable to determine the place where you will hang it.

It is technically possible to install an indoor air conditioner absolutely anywhere, but for its high-quality operation, without the risk of failure, there are certain rules and some nuances that must be observed during installation.

In this article, we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the most common mistakes during the installation process, as well as give recommendations for the correct installation of the air conditioner in order to avoid unforeseen problems in the future.

1. Install the indoor unit of the split system at a distance from the ceiling of at least 10 cm. Since the air conditioner takes air for cooling/heating from the room (not from the street), the small distance from the ceiling to the top of it (where the air intake grille is located) can make it difficult to recirculate air. In this case, firstly, the air conditioner will not be able to produce a sufficient amount of cold/heat, and secondly, it will wear out, which will lead to quick exit its compressor is out of order. That is why it is forbidden to put it on the air conditioner various items and cover it top part. If you are installing an air conditioner at the renovation stage, take into account the possible lowering of the ceiling level (stretch ceilings, plaster ceilings, etc.).

2. Do not install the indoor unit of the split system above cabinets, shelves, or chests of drawers if the distance from them to the lower edge of the indoor unit is less than 70-100 cm. Firstly, this leads to the dust accumulated on the top surface of the cabinet being blown away every time the air conditioner is turned on. Moreover, close proximity of horizontal surfaces leads to the creation of an air flow circulation, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the air conditioning system. The flow from the air conditioner is drawn back into the air intake, the air exchange in the room deteriorates, the air conditioner, taking in cold air, begins to “think” that it is time to stop working, because the temperature sensor is located at the inlet of the flow.

3. The air flow should not be directed directly at people. When operating in cold conditions, the temperature of the air stream from the air conditioner is 7-15°C lower than the ambient air temperature in the room. If such a stream blows on a person for at least several tens of minutes, poor health is guaranteed subsequently. Typically, air is directed so that it passes between work areas or where people are least likely to be. In the bedroom, you often have to make a choice on which wall in relation to the bed to hang the air conditioner. Most often, people are afraid to place the indoor unit above their head and mount the unit on the wall towards which their feet are facing. If it is not possible to remove the unit as far as possible from the bed and direct the air in the other direction, it is better to mount it above your head. In this case, cold air will not blow on the head, but on the legs, which are usually covered with a blanket.

4. Do not install the indoor unit of the air conditioner above a heat source (for example, above a radiator). Because of the flow warm air, rising upward from the heat source, the air conditioner will think that it is not cooling the room enough and will work for wear, as a result of which it will quickly fail. In addition, excessive heat may cause the plastic casing of the indoor unit to become deformed.

5. Do not install the air conditioner where air circulation will be difficult (for example, behind curtains, etc.). The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off.

6. The indoor unit of the split system must be installed strictly at level. This is necessary so that the moisture condensed on the heat exchanger can be easily removed outside through the drainage system. If the indoor unit is installed with a significant distortion (±3-4 mm is allowed), there is a possibility that water will accumulate in the drain pan and periodically flow out of it directly onto your floor.

7. It is not recommended to install air conditioning in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating.(e.g. drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.

8. Try to install the indoor unit so that the length of the freon pipe is minimal. Firstly, a long route increases the cost of installation, and secondly, it reduces work efficiency. Moreover, if you decide to lay the route in a box, then a long box across the entire wall will greatly spoil the interior.

9. If possible, connect a separate power cable to the air conditioner. For any air conditioner, even a low-power one, it is necessary to install separate electrical wiring and install a separate circuit breaker in the electrical panel. Because old wiring may not withstand the load and it will catch fire. Be especially vigilant if your home is older than 1990. In older houses, the wiring is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment.

1. Do not install the outdoor unit on a glazed balcony or loggia, since heat removal will be very difficult. Installation is only possible if the windows can be opened wide. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the operating temperature range of the outside air. The upper temperature limit for different air conditioners is not the same and ranges from 40 to 46 C.

2. The outdoor unit should not cause inconvenience to your neighbors(noise, dripping condensation).

3. Try to place the outdoor unit in such a way that Sun rays hit him as little as possible. Direct rays of the sun can trigger a protective shutdown of the device due to overheating.

4. Position the outdoor unit in such a way that during operation, the heat removed from the room is freely discharged into the environment (for example, do not install the outdoor unit where the prevailing wind is directed towards the air conditioner, as the fan will not operate normally).

5. Do not place the outdoor unit in close proximity to trees. Foliage and fluff from poplars clog the heat exchanger, and during gusts of wind, branches can get into the equipment and damage the fan or heat exchanger fins. If, after all, your house is completely surrounded by greenery, then you need to cut down some of the branches located next to the air conditioner.

6. It is prohibited to install outdoor units on the ground and in places where they may be dirty with dirt, covered with snow, flooded with rain or waste water. The blocks must be installed on a special stand.

7. It is prohibited to install outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases. In particular, this applies to the air conditioning of the first and second floors, where the gas pipes of gasified buildings usually pass.

8. When placing the external unit on the ground floor, install it in a special protective grille. This will prevent theft and acts of vandalism.

9. Take care of condensate drainage. Most often, condensate is discharged to the street. In this case, the flowing water should not fall on the wall of the building. Discharging condensate into the sewer is preferable, but expensive. If you plan to install the block above the sidewalk, then this is the only acceptable option.

10. Do not install the outdoor unit on an unstable foundation., for example on a wall made of hollow brick or thin metal. The fragility of the supporting structure almost always causes excess noise, which takes a lot of effort and money to eliminate. And the air conditioner may simply fall.

If you need high-quality installation (installation) of split systems in Krasnodar, the company’s specialists will help you with this website

This article will talk about how to install an air conditioner with your own hands. Experts strongly recommend preparing the climate control device for intensive use in advance. Installation of air conditioners is a responsible and quite complex undertaking from a technical point of view. With a certain desire, practical skills and theoretical basis, installation work can be done with your own hands.

The efficiency and duration of operation of the split system depend on how accurately the installation rules are followed. An unsuitable location, incorrectly selected equipment for installation, its non-compliance with technical operating conditions, violation of technology - all this can ultimately lead to breakdown of the unit. And even the most expensive devices fail without revealing their potential.

It will not be possible to competently organize the entire process if you do not have an idea of ​​​​the operating principle of this climate control device.

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Operating principle of the unit

All models of split systems on sale are built and function according to the same principle. They consist of a compressor and evaporator unit. Special tubes are used to connect them. The external unit is installed outside the wall.

Unit design

An evaporator is installed indoors. More productive and expensive models are equipped with several with a common compressor.

The principle of operation of a home air conditioner:

1. 1. Refrigerant (freon) is supplied under high pressure through a nozzle whose diameter corresponds to the outlet pipes.
2. 2. It is sent to the inside of the evaporator, where it gradually expands, and after some time it completely boils. The generated steam actively absorbs heat.
3. 3. During the absorption process, condensate in the form of water is certainly released, settling on the surface of the radiator.
4. 4. Moisture is transferred to a reservoir and then discharged behind the walls of the house.

If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out professionally and correctly, the compressor will constantly pump out freon vapor from the internal chamber, while at the same time the internal pressure increases. As a result, the refrigerant heats up, which helps convert it into dense fog.

The refrigerant is redirected to the condensation chamber, where it is cooled by an integrated fan, transforming into liquid. In this state, it is sent to the evaporator (through the nozzle) and everything closes in a circle.

note! If you install an air conditioner inside a room near a heating device, then the energy consumption will increase significantly, and the device itself will most likely fail after just a few months of operation..

Even ordinary dust can cause damage to the climate control unit. Wet cleaning is not only necessary, but also prescribed, and thorough, regular and thorough. It is strictly forbidden to place any products or objects on the block itself indoors. It is also impossible to cover it with a tablecloth.

Scheme of work

Installing an air conditioner yourself requires sealing all connecting elements and joints, which will eliminate the likelihood of refrigerant evaporation. Experts recommend placing the outdoor unit so that it is lower in level than the indoor unit. Standard installation of an air conditioner involves placing the outdoor unit in a cool place, in the shade.

The design and principle of operation of the air conditioner



Tools and preparations

It is impossible to install an air conditioner yourself without first preparing the tools:

• electrical tester;
• bicycle and vacuum pumps;
• pipe cutter;
• perforator;
• indicator;
• example;
• pipe flaring kit.

Required tools for installation

It's just basic set components required for installation of air conditioners. Additionally, you will need a full coil of copper tube (note that its ends must be rolled initially at the factory). Any visual defects (dents, scratches) are simply not acceptable.

note! Installation of air conditioning systems is impossible without making holes in the walls, damaging the external and interior decoration, so the work should be carried out in parallel with the repair.



Step-by-step instructions for installing the climate system

After purchasing a climate control unit and preparing the necessary tools, you can begin the main pool of work. The installation diagram is quite simple:

• choosing a location to install the unit.
• installation of brackets on which the unit will be installed.
• Initially, the external (outdoor) unit of the unit is installed.
• then the indoor unit and other elements of the system are installed inside the facility.

note! In the process of performing the relevant work, it is extremely important to strictly observe safety standards, especially if we are talking about a height of 2-3 floors. Knowing how to install an air conditioner yourself should not go against safety precautions.



Choosing a location for installing the unit is no less important than purchasing the air conditioning device itself. Experts advise taking into account a number of requirements when choosing a place for the indoor unit:

• distance from the side wall – from 30 cm;
• distance from the ceiling – at least 15 cm;
• to the nearest large object that disrupts the movement of air masses - from 150 cm.

Unit placement options

As for the placement of the outdoor unit, a balcony is considered the ideal place, but provided that it is open. In the case of a glazed loggia, you can choose the option of mounting it on a fence, if the load-bearing capacity of this structure is sufficient. For residents of the first and second floors, we recommend placing this part of the split system above the window so as not to cause inconvenience and reduce the likelihood of theft.

note! In the case of a private house, no strict recommendations are provided.

Choosing a place for the unit

If there are several air conditioning units, then the minimum distance between them should be at least 1.5 m, optimally 3 m. A number of manufacturers do not regulate given value and you can select it yourself. But it is better to refuse the “sandwich” option, in which adjacent blocks are placed back to back.

The distance between 2 blocks indoors is from 6 m. More is allowed, but in this case, refilling with refrigerant cannot be avoided. It is better to invest in the specified value.

Where to install the air conditioner

Installation of brackets for air conditioning

Brackets for installing the unit

So, where is the best place to install an air conditioner? – The climate control unit is fixed in an area of ​​unobstructed access. Installing an air conditioner on the balcony is the best option. This type of equipment requires periodic and high-quality maintenance.

Experts strongly recommend placing the outdoor unit on the north or east side. Installation of a window air conditioner is often performed at the bottom of the balcony. This zone is considered the best because it allows you to easily open the window and service the unit. The sequence of actions is simple:

1. 1. The places where the brackets are fixed are indicated and marked using a level.
2. 2. Holes are formed for the anchor bolts.
3. 3. For communications, it is necessary to prepare a through hole; its diameter must be at least 8 cm. It is better to make mounting recesses and recesses in the space between adjacent bricks; this will not only simplify the work, but also make it visually neater.

Bracket sizes

The brackets are installed in accordance with the preliminary markings, adjusting them according to the level and screwing in the anchor bolts. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there should be about 10 cm of free space between the base of the wall and the climate control unit. Gaps must be carefully sealed. Having ensured that this block is securely fastened, the installation stages continue, but this time inside the room.

ATTENTION! Don't skimp on brackets.

Brackets for air conditioners. What is the difference?

Mounting the outdoor unit

When starting to attach the outdoor unit, you need to make sure of the structural reliability and strength of the wall. Large models can weigh more than 50 kg, and in some cases more. Household air conditioning units weigh about 15 kg, and there are no problems with their fastening. Experts advise ensuring a safety margin for all fasteners and walls of at least 2 times.

Advice! If your house has external insulation, you should make sure that the brackets are not fixed to it, but to the wall itself.

In recent years, a material such as aerated concrete has become particularly popular in the private development segment. With all my positive qualities it is not able to provide sufficient strength for the installation of an air conditioner. The issue is similar with a ventilated façade.

note! During the installation process, it is extremely important to ensure a horizontal level for the product; in this case, you can use a building level. The slightest deviations can result in improper circulation of the refrigerant.

Correct mounting of the outdoor unit

• the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be blown by the wind from all sides (if possible);
• it is better to place the body under a canopy;
• residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings can place them directly on the roof;
• the maximum length of the main line is 15 m; if this value is exceeded, then cold losses increase.

Professionals pay close attention to the proper arrangement of drainage for condensate drainage. According to the rules and regulations, this pipe must be connected to the sewer system. But the overwhelming majority of our compatriots neglect it, completely in vain.

The outdoor unit should be at a distance of 10 cm from the wall surface. It is required to ensure high-quality airflow of the unit. If you do not withstand it, the device may completely fail. Remember that any activities related to the installation of an outdoor unit are associated with a high health hazard, since this is work at height.

Attaching the indoor unit

Professionals strictly prohibit placing the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, or above a battery. Self-installation of an air conditioner in these places can result in failure of the device’s processor. Having decided on the location, it is imperative to check the wall for the presence of other communication solutions (heating pipes, water supply, electrical wiring).

Attaching the indoor unit

Direct installation of a window air conditioner is possible only if there is free space. First of all, a metal plate is mounted: at least 10 cm must be removed from the ceiling, and about 7 cm from the base of the wall. The distances are marked with a pencil. Holes are made for fastening, and the plate is securely screwed.

Fixed plate for indoor unit

The further installation scheme involves fixing the indoor unit on an already attached plate. A parallel hole is made in the wall for laying copper cables, condensate hoses, pipes, and electrical wiring. Standard includes all necessary products, solutions and elements.

Electrical connection

Electrical connection diagram

The indoor unit operates only if it has its own wiring, the cross-section of which must be at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A mandatory requirement is the presence of a circuit breaker, especially if this is the installation of industrial air conditioners. The wiring is connected to the panel only when it is completely laid: a yellow wire with a small green stripe is connected to the neutral wire.

note! In order to determine phase and zero, it is most effective to use an indicator.

The rules for installing an air conditioner require connecting individual units using insulated stranded wires, previously passed through a hole in the wall. Each climate control unit comes with instructions that clearly indicate the wiring diagram and sequence.

When answering the question of how to properly install an air conditioner, professionals invariably state that the key to the success of this entire event depends on the quality and skill of laying copper pipes. They are cut in such a way that there is a small margin (about 0.8-1 m) for bends.

Pipe laying

It is not possible to simply bend them, since dents and wrinkles will form, and the metal may even crack.

note! Installation of industrial air conditioners, like domestic ones, requires the use of special pipe benders. They help maintain the structural integrity of the tubes. For window air conditioners, this point is the key to effective operation.

Only after this can the tubes be covered with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation. As for traditional foam rubber, it is completely unsuitable in this context due to its short service life. Thread flanges are installed exclusively after insulation of pipes.

Installation and installation of air conditioners is carried out with mandatory flaring, while the process itself requires extreme care in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. Be that as it may, spare parts and necessary tools should always be at hand. When rolling, the nut should be placed easily, but when tightening it is better to use a torque wrench, which eliminates the possibility of squeezing out small particles from the treated area.

Next, it is enough to fix the corresponding pipeline at each fitting. A small piece of pipe in a reinforced casing is attached to the drain pipe (for such cases it is better to use heat-shrinkable tubes).

Advice! An important component of successful installation of an air conditioner at home is the presence of a drainage pipe located at the maximum possible distance from the load-bearing walls.

The next step is to insert pipes into the holes in the wall, and they should be placed as evenly as possible. At the wall, the canvas is fixed with clamps. An air conditioner installed outside the home must be mounted extremely securely. Small holes are filled with polyurethane foam. To check the tightness, you can use a soap solution.

Evacuating the system

To install air conditioners, it is necessary to evacuate the system. Even if the activities are carried out at home, this cannot be avoided, since moisture and fine dust are removed as part of vacuuming. During the installation of the air conditioner, the connections and threads are sealed, otherwise it will not be possible to remove air from the unit. A vacuum pump is used to pump out air for 20-40 minutes.

Vacuuming

After the installation of the air conditioner is completed, the refrigerant contained in the cylinder is supplied to the system. A small adapter is attached to it, and then a pressure gauge. The air conditioner reservoir is filled independently, taking into account and adjusting for pressure. Upon completion of the process, the circuit breaker is activated and the system enters test mode.

note! Uniform circulation of cold air indicates that everything was done correctly. The climate control unit can be used for its intended purpose.

Results

Now you know how to install an air conditioner yourself. This work is quite feasible. Naturally, we are not talking about a simple and easy task. The key recommendation is to strictly follow the instructions and if any defects occur, they must be corrected in a timely manner. In this case, the air conditioner will work effectively for a long time. Be sure to watch the video on installing an air conditioner from A to Z.

That's it now more people want to buy and install a split system in their apartment. And it's not just air conditioning. The split system allows you to better freshen the indoor air. What is its advantage? First of all, it does not block natural light, since it does not cut into the window frame. The second advantage is that it does not depend on the overall air conditioning system of the house as a whole. And lastly, it consists of only two blocks: internal and external. The only reason why a large number of consumers hesitate to purchase a split system - this is due to ignorance of the rules for its installation. Let's look at all the steps in order and tell you how to install a split system yourself.

Compound

First of all, you need to know what this air conditioning system consists of. It includes two separate units: an external one - a condenser, and an internal one - an evaporator. They communicate with each other through electrical wires and two tubes made of copper through which the refrigerant circulates. In addition, the indoor unit is equipped with a thin plastic tube that performs a drainage function, that is, it removes condensed moisture from the system. According to the rules, it should be connected to a special drainage tank or to a sewer pipe, but for some reason, more often than not, it ends up being drained outside, and water from it drips directly onto the heads or feet of passers-by.

Principle of operation

It is quite simple and consists in the fact that if the room needs to be cooled, then freon flows through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the external unit to the heat exchanger of the internal one. Thus, the refrigerant is processed by the fan, and cold air comes out from inside the air conditioner.

If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the heat pump of the external condenser begins to work as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, acts as a condenser. The split system is also equipped with a compressor located in the external unit. Its main function is to compress freon, which significantly increases the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Mounting methods

Internal units of split systems can be either wall-mounted or floor-ceiling. The latter can be successfully attached to both the ceiling and the floor. Most often, wall blocks are used in apartments of multi-storey buildings. They are equipped with movable blinds, with which you can change the direction of air flow.

The power of wall-mounted units is specifically limited by the manufacturers themselves, since if the flow of cooled air in a small room is too strong, it can literally blow away everything that is there. If the room is quite spacious, for example, it is an office or workshop, then a more powerful split system with a floor-ceiling indoor unit is installed in it.

Installation tools

In order to install a split system with your own hands, you will need a number of accessories that you will have to purchase or rent. The quality of the work performed and the durability of your air conditioner directly depend on what tool you use during the installation process. You will need:

● Rotary hammer with a set of chisels. It is useful for making holes in the main wall.

● Rebar detector. It may be needed if the walls of the house are made of concrete. If during drilling the tool hits the reinforcement, you will have to make another hole.

● Tube flaring kit. It will not be possible to do this work efficiently using improvised means, since it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.

● Pipe cutter. Under no circumstances should you cut off the pipes through which the refrigerant circulates with a regular hacksaw. Copper chips always remain in the gap, which can subsequently lead to compressor failure.

● Shabrovka. This tool is used to strip cut ends of pipes. An ordinary file or needle file is not suitable for this purpose precisely because of the sawdust.

● Pressure gauge. Needed to measure the refrigerant pressure in the system.

● Vacuum pump. It is necessary to process the system before filling it. Quite often you can hear advice that it can be washed with refrigerant. This is fundamentally wrong, since it does not remove moisture and spoils the compressor, just like metal chips.

● Hand bicycle pump. It is used to check the system for leaks.

● Tester and phase indicator. These devices are necessary for electrical installation work.

Tubes and working with them

Experts recommend buying a whole coil of copper pipe in the store at once, and it doesn’t matter if there is an extra one left. It can be used elsewhere. But if iron filings remain in the cut tube, you risk damaging the compressor of your air conditioner. Also, when purchasing it, you need to make sure that there are no visible cracks or dents on the surface, and that its ends are rolled by the manufacturer.

Before installing a split system yourself, you need to practice flaring the pipes. It is worth noting that this procedure is done only with a special tool and nothing else.

To practice working with flaring, you need to take the same small piece from the store along with the tube, but do not touch the coil itself. At the same time, you can try cutting the tube in a circular motion, and also scrape the product, holding it end down.

Installation

In order to carry out high-quality installation of a split system with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions. Professionals recommend installing air conditioners only before or during renovation, since you will still have to hammer out walls, lay electrical wiring and attach brackets. If the repairs have already been made, then all communications can be hidden using external boxes, but this, as you yourself understand, will not improve the interior. How to install a split system yourself correctly will help you understand the step-by-step implementation of this work.

Stage one: electrical wiring

If we take even the lowest-power modern air conditioner, which consumes 1.5 kW of electricity, then it also needs to lay separate wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. In addition, you will need an automatic shutdown.
When connecting the wires to the input panel, you need to find where the phase and zero are located with a special indicator, and after determining, mark them at both ends.

Stage two: outdoor unit

It is strictly not recommended to install an external split system unit yourself if your apartment is not on the first floor, as there is a risk of falling from a height. But on the other hand, thanks to the presence of loggias and balconies on the upper floors, this problem practically does not exist. In addition, maintenance and repair of air conditioners in such cases become more convenient.

Typically, a split system is installed on the east or north side of the house. But even if you had to attach the outdoor unit from the south, the balcony canopy will still protect it from direct exposure to sunlight.

Stage three: indoor unit

In order for the installation of a split system with your own hands to be successful, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. First, special brackets are attached to the ceiling (if it is a floor-ceiling air conditioner) or to the wall (wall-mounted system) using screws. Having completed this work, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening, namely, install the indoor unit and connect it. If the structure does not wobble or vibrate, then the brackets are securely fixed.

It is easiest to install a split system with a floor-mounted unit, since it usually does not require fasteners. But you still need to finally decide on its location, because after laying communications it will no longer be possible to rearrange it.

Stage four: punching gutters

If you doubt your knowledge or are unsure about something, you can always get advice from a specialist who will tell you how to install a split system yourself and connect freon pipes and electrical wires, thereby connecting the two units to each other. To do this, special gutters are usually punched into the ceiling or walls, but only if it is necessary to lay a hidden pipeline.

If you don’t want to hammer, then there is another option. All wires can be covered with skirting boards or decorative plastic boxes.

If a multi-storey building consists of blocks, then before you start punching a hole in the wall, you must first use a rebar detector to determine the places where the iron core lies. Under no circumstances should you cut the reinforcement, since it is located in the external load-bearing wall. According to the standard, the hole diameter must be at least 80 mm. Sometimes you can hear recommendations about 50-60 cm, but here the thickness of the thermal insulation was clearly not taken into account.

In addition, you will definitely need an assistant to stand below and warn people passing nearby, since a piece of brick or concrete accidentally falling from a height can injure someone. Such an incident can be very costly for the owner.

Stage five: connecting pipelines

In order not to make a mistake and to correctly connect all the pipes, you need to carefully study the instructions on how to properly install a split system. First, you need to measure the required length of the tube and cut it off with a margin of at least 1 m. All excess will be used for bends.

Professionals warn that bending tubes must be done with great care, as they can break, and sometimes wrinkles form on their surface. They create obstacles to the free flow of refrigerant, which leads to a significant increase in energy consumption. The minimum permissible bending radius is 100 mm.

Then polyurethane foam hoses or flex insulation are put on the tubes. It is highly undesirable to use foam rubber. After this, threaded flanges are put on them, and the ends are flared. Next, the pipelines are connected to the fittings. The main thing in this work is not to confuse the connection. Most air conditioner manufacturers make the cold and hot fittings different in diameter.

For the drainage system you will need a piece of reinforced plastic pipe. It is connected to the waste pipe using a heat-shrinkable tube or threaded flange. The drainage must be installed at an angle of at least 5-10 mm. This is necessary for the natural flow of water.

Sometimes, for some reason, such a tilt cannot be made. In this case, you will have to additionally install a special pump to pump out moisture. I must say that purchasing it can cost about 70-200 dollars. The price depends on the pump model.

Stage six: sealing and vacuuming

The easiest and most reliable way to check sealing is with a soap solution. To prepare it, you need to buy half a liter of distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it, then throw in shavings of laundry soap.

By using a rubber hose from a bicycle hand pump connected to the outlet nipple, you can easily check the seal quality. This is done like this: one worker pumps up the air, and the other spreads a soap solution onto the threaded connection with a brush and watches for the appearance of bubbles. When they stop swelling, tighten them another 1/8 turn. After completing the work, remove soap deposits with a damp cloth.

Having completed the seal check, the system must be evacuated, i.e., moisture, dust and air that have entered there must be removed. To do this, return the nipple to its place and tighten it. Next, connect a vacuum pump and pump for about an hour. During this time, the moisture from the system should evaporate along with the remaining air.

Final stage: testing

To carry out the tests, the split system is filled with refrigerant from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions. It is worth noting here that air conditioners running on freon cannot be filled with refrigerant, and vice versa.

During testing, the circuit breaker is turned on, and the air conditioner should enter the mode itself. If this does not happen, you need to try running the test using the remote control. If this does not help, you will still have to call specialists, but know that all installation guarantees have already been lost.

In the event that the test is successful, the cold air is released and the blinds are installed in the desired position, you can safely tell yourself and others that you now know how to install a split system yourself. And the final touch - you need to seal the hole in the wall. And not with foam, but thoroughly.

Buying an air conditioner to create and maintain comfortable conditions in a room can become completely useless. It's no secret that when choosing an air conditioning system, we tend to listen to the opinions and advice of qualified specialists. We do not buy such a complex device at random, without taking into account the volume of the room, the material of the walls, the number of window and door openings. We get acquainted with the available information about the models of the selected brand. And many refuse the help of qualified installers, believing that installing an air conditioner in an apartment on their own is not a difficult job at all.

Nevertheless, the real prospect of damaging expensive equipment with poor-quality installation is obvious. In our article we will tell you how to install air conditioners in an apartment.

Types of air conditioners

The first device that maintains comfortable conditions in the apartment is temperature regime, humidity, cleanliness and speed of air movement - appeared in the first half of the 20th century, but in Russia air conditioners for residential buildings began to be used relatively recently.

Air conditioners can be divided into several independent groups:

• mobile;
• window;
• split systems;
• multi-split systems.

For a long time, the most popular in our country were window systems that are installed in a window or wall. This significantly reduces the level of illumination in the room. It consists of a single unit, so the installation of such a device is greatly simplified. Such models operate quietly, are quite durable, do not have freon leaks, and are distinguished by maximum efficiency, but their price is high.

The air is removed through a pipe leading into the window. Condensation collects in a tray. The advantage of such systems is their mobility - you can place it anywhere, but the disadvantages, undoubtedly, include loud noise.

There is another subtype of mobile air conditioners. It is ductless, produces much less noise and uses little energy. The moisture that evaporates during operation enters the room in the form of steam, thereby increasing the humidity.

Split systems are a more modern device that consists of two parts - an indoor and outdoor unit. They are divided by type:

• columned;
• cassette;
• channel;
• ceiling;
• central;
• wall-mounted

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment involves installing the unit outside the room - on the facade, roof, balcony. They connect him electrical wires and drainage tube.

Selecting an air conditioner

When choosing a specific device, its power is calculated. In this calculation, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​the rooms, the degree of natural light, and the presence of heating devices. More powerful devices are suitable for the kitchen, and less noisy ones for the bedroom. And installing an air conditioner in an apartment, in particular in a children's room, will require choosing the highest quality mechanism. Speaking from an aesthetic point of view, it is better for the device to be hidden. A split system is most suitable for this.

Duct air conditioners

This device is a semi-industrial type device. It perfectly solves the problems of ventilation, air conditioning and temperature control in a fairly large room.

In this system, air passes through ventilation ducts. They have an unusual air supply and distribution system. For this purpose, a network of air ducts has been created.

Air from the street enters the external unit, then it moves through copper pipes, in which it is cooled and sets the desired temperature in the room. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is equipped with filters to purify the air.

Additional functions

Devices of this type are usually equipped with instructions, a control panel, and a set of additional filters. In addition, the duct air conditioner has an antibacterial air treatment function.

Advantages

Installing a ducted air conditioner in an apartment is justified if it is quite spacious (more than 120 square meters). Such systems are more suitable for estates and large private houses.

The duct air conditioner is very compact, it is almost invisible in the room, since its internal unit is mounted in closets, utility rooms, and under suspended ceilings. This allows you not to disturb the interior.

Air enters the room from the street. The developed air duct system allows the device to supply it to several rooms at the same time.

Flaws

Duct air conditioners have their weaknesses:

• high noise level;
• complexity of installation.

Installation of an air conditioner in an apartment (ducted) can only be performed by experienced specialists. They must accurately calculate the rules of air conditioning and ventilation.

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands

Once the model has been selected and the appropriate device has been purchased, visually inspect the equipment. This is necessary in order to avoid any unpleasant surprises during its installation. All parts must be securely fixed, the air conditioner must not have mechanical damage.

After this, you should clearly determine the location of the external and internal modules of the device. In this case, you should follow certain rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment - first of all, this is the need to take into account the aesthetic appearance of the device and ensure all its quality characteristics. To do this, consider the following:

Indoor unit - choosing a location

1. The equipment should be installed so that it is convenient to install it. The device must be protected from direct sunlight.
2. It is necessary to choose a solid wall so that the air conditioner is in the desired position when operating.
3. In order for air circulation to be of high quality, the installation location of the unit must be well ventilated - the distance of the module from the ceiling must be at least fifteen centimeters.
4. Get rid of various obstacles in the way of the cooled flow - screens, partitions, etc.

Preparatory work

If you decide to install this device yourself, then you will definitely need a diagram for installing an air conditioner in the apartment. It is usually included with all models. If it does not suit you, then look through the special literature to choose the best option for your premises.

The most labor-intensive part of the preparatory work is drilling a hole in the load-bearing wall and preparing grooves - recesses in the wall, which must be of such a size that utility lines can be placed in them.

If the gating process is unfamiliar to you, you can place these elements in a special mounting box. For drilling, it is better to use professional equipment - a powerful hammer drill equipped with a breaking drill with a carbide tip.

In order for the holes to be made with high quality, in accordance with technical requirements, some recommendations should be followed:

• the hole diameter should be 45 mm;
• It is necessary to drill at a slight angle (for timely removal of drained condensate).

At the preparatory stage, the outer bracket and mounting plate are installed.

When attaching external brackets, follow these simple rules:

• the bracket is selected taking into account the dimensions of the external unit;
• fastening is done with powerful screws and dowels, the diameter of which must be at least 12 mm.

Anchor bolts can be used.

Mounting the outdoor unit

Installation of air conditioners in an apartment must be carried out in compliance with all technical standards.

To ensure that the outdoor unit is securely installed, it must be carefully secured to all available mounting holes. To reduce vibration, we recommend using rubber pads.

Engineering Communication

Installing an air conditioner in an apartment will require certain technical knowledge.

After installing the external unit, you can begin installation. You will need to measure the length of the route connecting both units and cut the pipeline to the required size.

Then it is necessary to flare the connecting tubes. Now you need to connect the pipes of the indoor unit to the pipelines.

The final stage of work is fastening the indoor unit, connecting its pipes to the outdoor unit and connecting the electrical cable.

At this stage it is better to work together. One person lifts the line of the indoor unit, the second pushes the counter part of the line out into the street through the prepared hole. The indoor unit is then attached to the mounting plate.

At this point, the installation of an air conditioner in the apartment (you see the photo in our article) is considered complete. In conclusion, I would like to say: if you are not sure that you can do this, entrust it to professionals.

Air conditioning on the balcony

As a rule, installation on the upper floors of apartment buildings requires the participation of qualified installers who are certified to work at height. Their services are not cheap. Therefore, the thought often arises of installing it on the balcony.

This solution has its own nuances. When installing the outdoor unit inside, it will overheat. In this case, it should be installed outside.

The operation of this device is accompanied by noise and vibration. You can get rid of this inconvenience by using mounts with shock absorbers. As you can see, installing an air conditioner in an apartment causes certain difficulties on the upper floors of high-rise buildings. Permission to install a block on the facade of a building, including on a balcony, must be obtained from the architecture department of the city administration.

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and activities. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity in the simplest way. Agree, in summer period There are many days that require climatic parameters to be regulated.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful to both independent home craftsmen and customers of installer services to verify proper performance.

We describe the installation process in detail, listing the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for installation and connection of the units are listed. Photo and video attachments are a valuable addition to the text, making it easier to perceive information.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold/hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of a split system are above the bed/sofa. Outdoor - usually taken outside and installed on an area near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - at least 30 cm;
• to an obstacle that will impede the flow of outgoing air or disperse it - at least 150 cm.

For the external part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the load-bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near a window, on slabs enclosing a loggia, or on a wall next to a balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the unit is installed above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade, used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the weight of the installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point very close to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of location for equipment is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on the model range and characteristics.

Sometimes companies do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be carried out arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between the blocks of the Daikin split system is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled up into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to figure out the maximum possible distance between two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to install a split system yourself usually comes after asking the specialists for prices. Incredibly high amounts for completing a job that takes 3 hours are justified by the presence of expensive tools and their wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the master’s services.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, you should do the installation yourself, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, the instructions often indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but to install pipelines, connect to the electrical network, and carry out the vacuum process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware Installation Tools

You can install the cooling unit yourself, because... Most of the tools are in the handyman's suitcase. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy one - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of craftsmen do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If you couldn’t find a vacuum pump when installing the air conditioner yourself, an alternative option could be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During installation important aspect is to maintain the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check at the construction level.

If a tool is not available, you can rent it at a hardware store.

You will need to prepare the following equipment in advance:

1. Hammer. It is used to make holes in the façade through which a route will be laid, connecting the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. A device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, a file and sandpaper.
5. Copper pipe roller.

Some people believe that using a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after manipulations with the chamfer remover can the edge of the flared tube be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The operation of a device for flaring copper pipes is carried out by deforming the tube according to a selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and circular cross-section are preserved

According to technical rules installation, a vacuum pump is required - the sealing of the air conditioning system is carried out with this equipment. After filling the route with refrigerant, the evacuation process is carried out.

Purchasing the necessary materials

You will need quite a lot of components, but all of them are easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for the device, functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire to supply power and connect the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or equipment installation instructions.

The standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account small stock.

You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper intended for cooling devices. Pipes are selected with smaller and larger diameters. More specific specifications are listed in the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of tubes, their edges must be sealed to protect from dust settling inside the product.

The pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system; their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness

Foamed rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in 2 m lengths. To implement thermal insulation measures, you will need a length equal to the length of the route. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with an additional 80 cm.

You will also need two L-shaped brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the safety margin for the load-bearing load should exceed its weight by 5 times. This increase in the maximum permissible stress of the part is required to compensate for wind and snow loads.

It is better to buy these components from a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing a bracket for attaching the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, you cannot make additional holes in it, because this significantly reduces the safety factor of the part

The following fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be installed also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box of standard dimensions 60*80 cm.

Installation procedure for split system

Installing an air conditioning system yourself is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions for the purchased equipment model.

Stage #1 – installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit must be installed first. Having decided on its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling out the gaps, plastic plugs for the dowels are inserted, the card is hung and secured with dowels.

The most careful fastening should be done in the lower part of the plate, because in this area there are latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using a building level, the strict horizontal positioning of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, all completed work will need to be redone.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the routes will take place. First, the lines of its location are calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

A hole with a diameter of 5 cm is also drilled with a slope, and the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. Thus, the condensate formed will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back installation of units, you need to check the hole intended to accommodate the power cable. To do this, you need to check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it’s time to install the outdoor unit. If we're talking about about a multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the block must be strictly horizontal, so a level is also used at the marking stage.

When placing the outdoor unit, it is necessary to take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum permissible slope angle is 45°

When installing the fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10*100 mm), regardless of their number. Afterwards, the outdoor block is installed and also fixed with fasteners.

Stage #2 – laying a communication line

Using an electrical wire and two copper tubes, the outdoor and indoor units are connected. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper tubes by cutting them to the required length using a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer to remove burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools, such as a file. After its use, metal shavings get inside the tube, which will circulate throughout the system and ultimately lead to failure of the compressor.

To pass copper tubes through a wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect them from dust.

Thermal insulation of the tubes is carried out by placing polyurethane foam hoses on them. You cannot choose foam rubber as a sealant - it has a short service life. Having completed the thermal insulation measures, all joining areas of the material are tightly taped with metallized tape.

Now it’s time to lay the drainage and cable. Each wire must be equipped with a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with pliers.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both blocks, in an area located slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate intended for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drainage tube is connected to a special outlet on the unit indoors and is discharged through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its installation is carried out at an angle towards the exit. Fixation with clamps is required every meter of length to eliminate sagging and prevent condensation accumulation.

Stage #3 – connecting system units

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to catch oil, which is contained in small quantities in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: take it to the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, but due to the complexity of reproduction it is not widely used.

When laying the drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns; sagging is also not allowed - condensation will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the internal block of the system there is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the connection with a clamp.

A similar procedure is performed for the outer part of the device, but many people ignore it. If instead of a hose you use polymer pipe, the appropriate adapter is selected. It is used to connect the output of the unit and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you first need to lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks or sharp creases. First of all, they are connected to the unit indoors. To do this, loosen the nuts on the corresponding ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped in at the time of production to eliminate oxidation of parts. After lowering it, you need to remove the plugs and completely unscrew the nut. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal shavings from entering the system

The edges of the pipes in a 5 cm area are leveled. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection between the inlet and outlet of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. Correct installation plays a role important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness during the movement of freon.

The flared edge of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and secured with a nut. It is prohibited to use any additional devices - sealants, gaskets, etc. The copper tubes used provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper tubes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then will the copper clamp the fitting monolithically, and the contact will be sealed

Similar actions are performed with all four ports. After the connection, the final stage of installing the air conditioning system follows - eliminating air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that may have accumulated during the installation process.

Stage #4 - vacuuming the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner pipes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is increased load on the compressor and, accordingly, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles negatively affect all parts. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil; its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when in contact with water. As a result, component wear will accelerate.

To remove air, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid, which is drained from a unit located outside. When manufacturing an outdoor unit, manufacturers with a slight surplus.

The “spray” method is repeated several times, with the second attempt being made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m, the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter length - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, unscrew the plugs on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of larger diameter. Under its cover there is a hexagonal connector. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. By pressing your finger for a second on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal air, the spool outlet is tightened with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the connections, they are coated with soap foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without cleaning the edges, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the cooling system components. Therefore, during the installation process you need to be extremely careful with all the details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments and ask questions in the block below.