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Which camera is better: Canon, Nikon or Sony.

What should a beginner amateur photographer choose? Which brand should you prefer? Answering these questions is not so simple. People often like to compare several models from Nikon and Canon in the same price segment. Then a third player - a Sony enthusiast - can join this pair with his own view of the camera market. However, having limited their choice to a few models, novice amateur photographers look at this problem rather narrowly and do not take into account many more important factors. We will talk about them in our article.

You shouldn’t compare camera A with camera B, pitting them head-to-head.

When you compare one camera to another, one model may have a clear advantage. This is not without reason: manufacturers have never released two completely different models, endowing them with certain advantages over competitors. For example, the Nikon 5300 has a very advanced autofocus system - competitors only have this in the semi-professional segment.

And Sony cameras have a much better video mode and more various kinds of electronic features, filters, and additional functions.

All these advantages in numbers are rarely fully realized by amateurs, but can cause you to jump to a hasty conclusion and lead to a rash purchase. Before you give preference to one or another parameter, think about how important it will be for you when shooting. Remember that most of the time you will be “just shooting” without using fancy AF tracking algorithms or the many built-in filters.

About the complex Nikon menu and the small fleet of Sony optics

After comparing specific models and identifying all possible disadvantages and advantages, buyers like to appeal to opinions read on forums or heard from more experienced friends: about the number of optics in the system, about the features of camera control... There can be a lot of options! But controlling any camera is a matter of habit. In principle, this does not apply to novice photographers, since habit is acquired. It takes years to develop. So the convenience or inconvenience of the interface of a particular model should never be judged based on the opinion of another person. A novice photographer easily adapts to the control features of almost any camera.

With optics it's a little more complicated. When choosing a system, we choose lenses. Sony inherits a large legacy from Konica-Minolta, and Canon has a huge stock of old optics available on the secondary market. It is worth considering here that the matrices of digital cameras are constantly being improved, and a lens that was sharp on a six-megapixel matrix will not demonstrate all the capabilities of a sensor with a resolution of 18 megapixels or more.

Lenses, like cameras, keep up with the times. Any brand from the big three has a full line of optics for every taste and budget. Moreover, the question of whether a manufacturer has a large or small fleet of optics is very ambiguous. It makes sense to consider only lens models recent years releases that meet high modern image quality requirements. And here all manufacturers will have approximately the same set.

Thus, as in any situation, you need to have your own head on your shoulders and not take the word of people who are only slightly more experienced in the matter of choosing cameras. Many problems turn out to be far-fetched and made up out of thin air.

Service availability

Equipment is not insured against breakdowns. Minor drops, dust, moisture, extreme temperatures - all this can cause the camera or its components to fail. In such cases, professionals have a second camera, a spare one, but for an amateur this is a luxury. Through service centers Many amateur photographers passed. It is worth finding out in advance about the availability of a service in your region or city, as well as the quality of the work they carry out. There is no point in additional megapixels or autofocus points if you cannot repair the camera if it breaks, or you can, but with great effort. However, even if there is no service in your city, there is always the possibility of sending the camera to another city. In any case, you will not be left without qualified help, it just may take more time.

Focus on friends

DSLR and now mirrorless cameras are ubiquitous. It is possible that you have a more experienced friend or acquaintance who has made his choice and has already acquired his own fleet of optics. In this case, you make your task much easier because you have the opportunity to try this or that camera or lens. Even if you don’t have them yet, you can easily find like-minded people via the Internet. Large communities of fans of this or that brand have long been formed online, and their participants hold regular live meetings. You can also try joining a local photography club by finding it through a local city forum. Oddly enough, choosing a camera “like your friends” turns out to be justified here: they will always help you with advice and let you try an interesting lens for a day or two.

Read tests and reviews

There are many tests and reviews of technology available online today. For example, in our tests we try to pay maximum attention not to instrumental comparisons, but to testing cameras in real conditions. Because we sincerely believe that the main thing is how the camera takes pictures in real life, and not at all measured in percentage difference in noise or other parameters.

Listen to your own taste

Even if you are armed with all our advice and have already made a choice, there is always a chance that something will go wrong. The difference between systems lies not so much in the objective field as in the subjective field. There is no one undisputed leader. Photography is subjective, and you should listen to the whispers of the heart. Whether Canon, Nikon, or Sony, they all have their own philosophy, their own perception of color and vision of this world. Look at the photos and ask yourself if you like them. This, in our opinion, is the most important. You have to like the photos. Your camera should produce “your” color in the pictures, and your optics should paint “your” picture.

Article text updated: 02/23/2019

Very soon, on November 14, 2013, sales of a new generation of SLR cameras will begin entry level Nikon D5300. The cost of the carcass is 300 dollars more expensive than my Nikon D5100. Let's try to analyze whether the game is worth the candle, does it make sense for a beginner, when buying his first DSLR, to pay 300 bucks more for a camera without a lens?

By many parameters new model Outperforms my camera, as well as the previous D5200 and the even simpler and older D3100. Therefore, at first glance, a novice amateur photographer has an answer to the question “which camera should I buy?” There is no doubt: the one that has more advanced technical characteristics. However, given my two years of experience shooting with a DSLR camera, I am ready to challenge this opinion.

In my opinion, this approach has the right to life when purchasing professional DSLRs with which you will compete for orders from your clients. But Nikon D5300 is an entry-level amateur camera. And, may I not incur the wrath of the Nikon Corporation marketers, it would be more logical for a novice amateur photographer to spend a minimum of money on an “older” model of the camera and good lens, get the highest quality picture and be satisfied with the result. And to follow this logic, the new camera is not very suitable. And that's why…

Comparison of Nikon D3100, D5100, D5200 and D5300 cameras

First, let's see who's who in my comparison review.

Camera Nikon D3100 – the youngest model in the line of SLR devices from Nikon. It went on sale in 2010. It has slightly simpler technical characteristics than my D5100 KIT 18-55. However, with a good lens, it is capable of producing a better picture than my camera with standard glass.

My DSLR Nikon D5100 has been on sale since the second quarter of 2011. I purchased it in November 2011 in time to film on a solo trip to China, Hong Kong and the Philippines (a review of that trip has yet to be blogged). But you can look at a report about a trip by savages driving a rented car in Sri Lanka with examples of photos taken with this combination: camera + whale AF-S lens DX VR Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G. And in general, almost all the photographs taken before June 2013 were taken with this system, when I began to buy additional lenses (Nikkor 70-300 telephoto, Samyang 14 mm/2.8 wide-angle and Nikkor 17-55/2.8 universal zoom).

Nikon D5200 DSLR camera replaced my old one at the end of 2012. Until today, I have not delved into the details of the technical parameters of this DSLR, but below we will see what the differences are and whether they have significant advantages over the Nikon D5100.

Well, the subject of today’s review is a new product Nikon D5300. Sales will start in mid-November 2013. In many respects it is superior to the previously listed cameras. There is only one drawback - for sure, at the beginning of sales, stores will ask inadequate money for it.

Let's go to the official website of the company in Russia and check the boxes to compare camera parameters. I also added the older model D7100 (I won’t compare it directly in the article, but I’ll make a couple of comments at the end). And before we start discussing the advantages and disadvantages of each camera, I want to make important notes:

How I process photos for articles

If you are interested, you can read it. We discuss how the JPEG and RAW formats differ, what basic processing steps exist, and what is the difference between Lightroom and Photoshop.

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comments 433

Yes you are right. I've been using Nikon D5200 with standard KIT 18-55 for about a month now. (My photography skills are still at an elementary level). Only after purchasing the camera did I become more familiar with the basics of photography and compared the characteristics of the data in your camera review and realized that the Nikon D5100 is indeed in no way inferior to the Nikon D5200. After all, not all advanced features are used when shooting in reality. Thanks for the insightful review.

Andrey, thank you for your feedback! To be fair, it must be said that your DSLR has parameters that give you reason to think about purchasing it, and not my model. I mean the matrix resolution and the number of focusing points. It's all about FAIR pricing. So, today the prices for Nikon D5300 in the most famous and cheapest photographic equipment store in Yekaterinburg became known. It is offered for 29,990 rubles. Even more expensive than I predicted...

- Comparison of Nikon D3200 and D5100 DSLR cameras
  
  Vitaly, thank you for your feedback.
  
  When we compare my Nikon D5100 camera with the cameras listed in the analysis, everything is relatively clear. My DSLR is technically better than the Nikon D3100, and the price of both models is practically the same. The other two cameras have slightly more advanced technical capabilities (often controversial), but their prices are unreasonably high. Therefore, Nikon D5100 wins in terms of price/quality ratio in this review.
  
  When we want to compare Nikon D3200 and D5100, then deciding which camera to buy becomes much more difficult. It feels like the company's marketers took over from mobile operators, where they created confusing tariff plans. At least they all completed the course “I twist, I twist, I want to confuse the buyer” with excellent marks! 🙂
  
  The answer to the question of what to choose is not so obvious. Both cameras are almost the same in terms of technical characteristics.
  - The Nikon D3200 DSLR has a matrix large quantity pixels (24.2 versus 16.2), but the photosensitivity is the same: in the range of 100-6400 ISO units.
  With the number of pixels, not everything is so simple. For example, I’m already dreaming of switching to full frame. If you read reviews and reviews comparing Nikon D610 and Nikon D800, you will find out that there is a heated debate among photographers. The D800 camera is 20 thousand rubles more expensive. And its sensor has a huge number of points (36 megapixels versus 24.3). Not only is not every computer capable of processing RAW of such a gigantic size, but there is also the problem of micro-smearing. Many photographers argue that the greater the number of pixels with the same physical size of the matrix, the higher the likelihood of micro-blurring and the requirements for the lens. To get a high-quality photo with such a sensor, you need a lens of the highest quality (and price) and literally require relearning how to press the shutter button correctly. Many owners of Nikon D800 cameras have more defective photos due to micro-smear than photos from Nikon D5100.
  - The Nikon D3200 DSLR camera can shoot video at 60 frames per second. My Nikon D5100 camera records 30 frames per second. Since I almost never shoot video with a DSLR, it’s difficult for me to judge. In the report on an independent trip to Mexico while driving a rented car, you can watch videos shot on a soap box in 720px quality. I thought the video was good before. But then I went wild, also in a rented car around Sri Lanka, and shot video a couple of times on a Nikon D5100 KIT 18-55 in 1080px format. The image quality is clearly better (just set Youtube to 1080px when viewing).
  This video was filmed in Sri Lanka during a self-guided tour of Fort Galle.
  
  The second video was filmed during an excursion to the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, also in Sri Lanka.
  
  As you can see, I’m an even worse videographer than a photographer... 🙂 Look at more examples of videos shot on my DSLR and Nikon D3200 and decide which camera shoots better.
  - The light sensitivity of both models is the same.
  - The number of focus points and frames per second during multi-shooting is also the same.
  - Nikon D3200 does not have exposure bracketing, which is not very convenient when shooting JPEG.
  - No rotating screen.
  The price for both amateur DSLRs Nikon D5100 and D3200 is the same. You yourself should decide what is more important: a larger number of pixels in the matrix or the presence of a rotating screen.
- Comparison of modelsNikon D3200, Nikon D3300 andNikon D3400
  
  Recently the release of a new entry-level model Nikon D3400 was announced. I decided that it would be useful for some novice photographers making their purchasing decisions if I tried to describe how they differ from each other.
  
  Let's start with a description of how the 3*** series models differ from other types of Nikon cameras: all cameras can be divided into cropped and full-frame. Models Nikon D7000, D7100, D7200 and D500, Nikon D5100, D5200, D5300 and D5500, Nikon D3200, D3300 and D3400 are CROP models, i.e. their matrix is smaller than that of a full frame.
  
  In an article about how to predict beautiful sunrise(link in the review text above) we saw that all cropped Nikon models differ little from each other in such important parameters as dynamic range, color rendition and working ISO. So what is the difference between the three groups of cropped DSLRs?
  
  It's all about marketing: both Nikon and Canon (and manufacturers without SLR cameras Fujifilm, Sony, Samsung) follow one path - they create a normal, easy-to-use camera with good technical characteristics, and then create “junior” models in which the control or performance is deliberately deteriorated.
  
  Thus, the premium cropped DSLR Nikon D7200, unlike the amateur Nikon D5500, is equipped with a “screwdriver” (that is, it can work with old Nikon lenses without a motor), has 51 focusing points (versus 39 for its younger competitor), and has greater speed continuous shooting, there is the possibility of in-camera adjustment of the accuracy of the autofocus system (convenient, because many lenses can miss and require adjustment), more possibilities when shooting with external light sources in the studio. Nikon D7200 has dust and moisture protection, 2 slots for memory cards.
  
  In turn, the Nikon D5500 differs from the Nikon D3400 in that it has a rotating screen, more focus points (39 vs 11), a longer battery life and the ability to shoot with exposure bracketing. Both Nikon D5500 and Nikon D3400 do not have a “screwdriver” and do not allow you to adjust the AF system in-camera. Unlike older models, the Nikon D3400 only works in the “on/off” mode - it does not offer several stages of influence on the picture (weak, medium, strong).
  
  At the same time, Nikon D3400, Nikon D5500 and Nikon D7200 have virtually identical matrix parameters. That is, there are no technical obstacles to using a Nikon D3400 to take a frame similar to what would be obtained on a Nikon D7200 (if we are talking about the sharpness and richness of the picture). At least a Nikon D3400 with a good lens will definitely produce a better image than a Nikon D5500 with bad glass. Younger models have inconveniences in shooting, which sometimes will not allow you to shoot as well as with older ones (for example, poorer focusing at dusk or a lower continuous shooting speed will lead to the fact that on the Nikon D3400 when photographing birds in the jungle there will be a large proportion of blurry frames).
  
  In my opinion, it makes sense to buy models of the 3*** series for those amateur photographers who want to get better picture quality than from a point-and-shoot camera, but who definitely will not be seriously interested in photography, reading books, processing pictures, etc. For those who are going to delve deeper into photography, it is better to purchase, as I noted above, a used cropped Nikon D7000 model with a used KIT 18-105 lens or a 5000 series camera.
  
  What is the difference between Nikon D3200, Nikon D3300 and Nikon D3400 cameras?
  
  Well, in the Nikon D3300 camera, in comparison with the Nikon D3200, it became possible to shoot video in Full HD format at 60fps (in the previous Nikon D3200, video was recorded at 25/30fps at FullHD resolution). Continuous shooting rate: 4 vs 5 frames per second. Battery life: 700 versus 540.
  
  If we compare the Nikon D3300 and Nikon D3400, the new product has more battery power (1200 frames versus 700), the microphone input has been removed (now it is no longer possible to use a less noisy external microphone when shooting video), and most importantly, there is no longer a built-in system for removing dust from the matrix by vibration , this can only be done manually... In general, if you think that the battery capacity has important, I advise you to look at the prices for Nikon D3200 and Nikon D3400, and then find out how much an additional battery costs. You may decide that it is better to purchase a Nikon D3200 and a battery for it. Moreover, saving battery power seems to have been achieved by reducing the power of the built-in flash ( guide number 7.8 instead of 12.13).
  
  In essence, it turns out that the Nikon D3400 has worse characteristics than the Nikon D3300, and costs more.

Andrey, I don’t quite understand your question about the flash. The camera has a built-in flash that allows you to take pretty good shots. But its main drawback is that it makes the image flat, since the lighting is frontal.

Therefore, for a better result, you can purchase an external flash. Firstly, it is more powerful. Secondly, it allows you to direct the light to the ceiling, for example, and illuminate the subject with indirect light. Then the picture looks much better. In general, sharpness and color rendition when shooting using an external flash are much better.

But I don’t have an external flash and I don’t have experience using it either. A friend bought a Speedlight SB-900 from Nikon and the results are very good. I was going to buy myself a Chinese flash (order on TAOBAO), Yongnuo YN-560 II. With delivery it would have cost five thousand rubles. But I haven’t gotten around to it yet, since I rarely photograph people.

I would also like to note that the built-in flash is well suited for the KIT 18-55 lens, but it cannot be used when photographing with my Nikkor 17-55 and 70-300, since the shadow from the lens gets into the frame. Keep this in mind. If you decide to buy a Nikon D5200 with the lens that I recommended (Nikkor 16-85), check on the forums or check in the store whether it will also create a shadow in the frame.

Happy shopping! And quickly join our army of amateur photographers! 🙂

Thank you!!!)) I ordered Nikon D5200. I'm waiting for him to arrive on Sunday. After reading your article again and thinking a little, I came to the conclusion that I want to learn how to photograph people, and for this I need a Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S Nikkor prime (like the girl whose work is posted above). What do you think, would it be the right choice of lens for these purposes?!

Andrey, congratulations on your purchase! And with the fact that now you are almost out of the agony of choice.. 🙂 It’s true that there is still a lot of thinking about buying lenses, a tripod, a photo bag, filters, etc... 🙂 Only you can answer the question whether you did it correctly or not by ordering fifty dollars when you start taking photos.

In any case, every photographer dreams of having fifty dollars in his set of glasses. The picture quality is amazing! The price is ridiculous. Of course, due to the narrow angle, it is quite difficult for them to build a composition. But I'm sure you'll learn quickly.

And also, if you really don’t have enough other focal lengths, then buy a used Nikkor 18-55 mm F/3.5-5.6 VR. Used it costs 2000-2500 rubles. And, taking photographs with it, you will understand what other focal lengths you are missing.

I sincerely wish you to be happy with your purchase and get more amazing shots!

I want to add my two cents about filters. A protective filter must be purchased immediately with the purchase of the lens. This filter protects not only from exposure to sunlight, but also from scratches.

It seems to me that filters, even protective ones, should be bought expensively or not at all, so that they do not spoil the image of the lens. Therefore, it doesn’t make sense to purchase a filter for a Nikkor 18-55 VR kit lens or, say, fifty dollars, since it will cost a third of the price of the lens.

When I bought the Nikkor 17-55/2.8 reportage zoom, the main argument for reducing the price was that it did not have protective filter. The seller was sincerely surprised: “Why is it needed? I’m already the second owner and look – not a single scratch.” At the end of the transaction, he once again asked whether I was really going to buy a UV filter for it. I was going to... But I haven’t bought it yet and probably won’t buy it again... :)

Protective filters filter out ultraviolet rays, thereby increasing the sharpness and contrast of the photo. The seller was lying. Scratches are not always visible to the naked eye. And there is always a difference: either you change the lens or you just change the filter. And the prices for UV filters are not that high. And simple protective ones cost about 700 rubles.

Sergey, finally I joined your discussions! 🙂 I completely agree with Svetlana. All my lenses have protective filters. And this doesn’t bother me at all. On the contrary, I feel more calm about my glass. It’s easier to change a filter than a lens... When I took my Nikkor 17-55/2.8 lens, the seller immediately said that it would be blasphemy to use it without a protective filter... :)

My old Nikon D40 body no longer suited me: the maximum real working ISO is 400 (800), 3 focusing points, the 6 megapixel matrix gives practically no space for framing, sometimes I would like to use the ability to shoot video (but this function is not critical). After reading reviews for a long time, I came to the conclusion that the Nikon D5100 camera is optimal for me and, in principle, I agree with your arguments.

I found your review after purchasing the camera. In principle, like you, I agree that in terms of price/quality ratio the D5100 is the best, and the Nikon D5200 and Nikon D5300 are overpriced.

Thank you for your response. To be honest, when I wrote the article, I didn’t think about the fact that those who already have experience shooting with a DSLR could switch to the Nikon D5100. I thought that people buy their first SLR camera and either stay with it forever, or switch to full frame... But I didn’t even think about the existence of such a segment of buyers like you... 🙂 On Yandex Photos you can already see the first ones by searching for “Nikon D5300” footage of the first owners. It seems to me that the opinion that I expressed in the article is confirmed: the main thing is a good lens, and a camera, even a Nikon D5100, is still capable of producing excellent results. And with the staff Nikon lens The D5300 doesn’t shoot any better... Well, of course, you shouldn’t discount the fact that it’s not even the lens, but the one who presses the shutter button that matters the most...

Wow, Nikon D40 - they started releasing it back in 2006... What an old man you have! 🙂 Good luck with your new camera!

- Which camera to choose from the following list: Nikon D5200, D5300 and Nikon D7000
  
  Hello, Sergey!
  
  It seems to me that in your case you can compare these SLR cameras according to the following scheme.
  
  First: Nikon D7000 and D5100 DSLRs are equipped with the same matrices. Therefore, in most cases, technically, the picture quality will be absolutely the same. At the same time, the D7000 camera has options that make it more pleasant for making money from photography: it is more convenient for shooting reportage (for example, wedding events, sports competitions) and studio work (for example, wedding photo shoot using multiple flashes as a light source).
  
  These options include:
  - The ability to use a shutter speed half as fast as the younger camera (1/8000 second).
  - It is possible to quickly synchronize with external flashes at the shortest shutter speed.
  - The standard flash built into the camera can be used as a control flash for external ones.
  - You can choose 39 or 11 point focusing mode.
  - The photography speed in multi-shot mode is the highest of the cameras presented in the review: up to 6 frames per second.
  In addition, a number of options make working with the Nikon D7000 more comfortable:
  - The viewfinder displays a full-size image.
  - There is a "screwdriver". Therefore, the camera can work with a wide range of lenses, incl. and non-motorized.
  - It is possible to fine-tune the focus. If your luck runs out and you buy a lens with back focus or front focus, you will be able to adjust the focus in the camera. Low-end DSLR models do not have this option.
  - You can manually set the color temperature from 2500 to 10000 Kelvin (useful when shooting JPEG).
  - The camera is equipped with two memory card slots. You can write a video on one card and a photo on the other. Or one JPEG, the other RAW. Or duplicate photos onto both flash drives.
  - There are many more control buttons on the camera body, which make it much more convenient and faster to adjust shooting modes.
  - Larger capacity battery.
  Second. By and large, you and I need to analyze the same three: Nikon D5300, D5200 and D5100... And from my article you understand that I believe that the best option in terms of price/quality ratio is the Nikon D5100. Also, from the review it is clear that in terms of the set of technical options, these three models are almost identical and less functional than the Nikon D7000 camera.
  
  For clarity, let's draw an analogy with renting a car on an independent trip to Europe. You have decided to rent an Opel Astra in its basic, bare configuration with a 105-horsepower engine for 15,000 rubles. By paying extra, you can rent a car with the same engine, but in the maximum version (anti-traction system ABS, anti-skid system ESP) for 28,000 rubles. When driving around European cities, the difference in handling of these vehicles may not be noticeable. But, if you go by car to the mountains in icy conditions or during rain, then a car with an anti-skid system will be much safer and more comfortable to drive.
  
  You are also offered to rent a car of the same model in the basic configuration, but with an engine of 115 and 120 horsepower for 26,000 and 30,000 rubles, respectively, or rent an Opel Corsa for 14,000 rubles with an engine of 80 horsepower (D3100).
  
  In a comparative review of Nikon SLR cameras, I tried to say the following: “Guys, if you want to organize an interesting trip as a savage across Europe in a rented car, then a car for 15,000 rubles with a 105 horsepower engine will be enough for you. Spend the difference in flight price on hot-air balloon around the Eiffel Tower and a visit to Disneyland near Paris..."
  
  Now, to decide which DSLR to choose in order to get high-quality photos, you need to answer two simple questions. Firstly, will you be driving through the mountains in ice and rain (Nikon D7000)? Secondly, what do you think is better: a boring trip in a car with an engine that is 10-15 horses more powerful than other models (Nikon D5200 and D5300) or a beautiful trip with a hot air balloon flight and entertainment in an amusement park?..
  
  Personally, my heart would advise me to buy a Nikon D7000. But the head would be categorically against it. If you look at the photos on my blog, you will see that my main genre is landscape. And even when traveling as a savage, I practically do not participate in filming in extreme modes (probably, if I go to photograph bullfights, bull racing, etc., I will regret that I do not have a Nikon D7000 with multi-shot 6 frames per second) . I don't have a single external flash. I checked the quality of lenses very meticulously before purchasing (I took test photos, uploaded them to a computer and studied the quality), so I don’t have a critical need for in-camera adjustment of the lens focus. Three out of four lenses have a motor, so the lack of a “screwdriver” is not a big deal. The Samyang 14/2.8 manual shirik suits me even without a motor. As I wrote in the analysis above, I only ran out of a 32 GB memory card once on an independent trip to China, Hong Kong and the Philippines. I just threw all the photos onto my hard drive in the evening and started shooting further. In general, on vacation I look through photos every evening, delete the bad ones and copy the good ones to a portable hard drive (see the article “What to give a photographer”) and a netbook. Therefore, there were no questions about the need for a second flash drive. True, I don’t shoot much video with my Nikon DSLR D5100. On my first independent trip, I shot in RAW+JPEG FINE format. But for a year and a half I have been using only the RAW (NEF) format, which means there is no need to adjust the color temperature either (one movement of the slider in Lightroom). And, by the way, the seven-thousander does not have a rotating screen.
  
  Imagine you need to photograph a wedding. Lighting modes, scenes, lenses change rapidly. To have time to capture interesting moments, you need to constantly change settings, shoot two thousand frames per evening. Then, of course, in Nikon comparison D7000 or Nikon D5300, Nikon D5200 or D5100, a higher-end camera will win.
  
  But my head tells me that for my shooting conditions, for the difference of 11,000 rubles between the Nikon D5100 and D7000, it’s better to buy a new Nikkor 50/1.8G prime

Thank you for the answer. It was important for me to get a professional’s opinion, since this will be my first DSLR. I have already decided what will suit me, thanks to you. This is a Nikon D5100 and a lens.

Sergey, thank you for being a “professional”... But I am an amateur who has been using my first DSLR for a little over 2 years... :)

By the way, it is worth mentioning that many more experienced photographers reproach me for the fact that this review was written from the point of view of someone who will photograph in RAW. Nikon D5200 and D5300 cameras have a more advanced processor. Therefore, if a novice photographer shoots only in JPEG, then the photo quality of these cameras may be slightly higher than that of the D5100.

In the article "" I showed what you can do with a RAW file compared to a JPEG. All my photography friends, even those who previously said they were too lazy to do post-processing, switched to shooting with NEF. Or at least RAW+JPEG. I liked the photo in JPEG - they don’t process it. If I didn’t like it, I processed it RAW. As practice shows, many photographers do post-processing 100% of the time if they want to get above-average results.

Hello Sergey! Question about choosing a lens. I have decided on the model - it is, without a doubt, Nikon D5100. Should I, as a beginner, take it with a standard Nikkor 18-55 or take the carcass without a lens and buy more for it? good optics? Please advise me, for portraits and landscape + portrait, mostly good optics, but not entry-level. And a more worthy one (average, not lower)! I understood about the fix, about fifty dollars! And something that’s not too expensive and has an impressive photo! Thank you! You are doing a good job. We will follow your articles and continue to take part, I hope, soon!

Hello, Sergey! Thank you very much for good words. Honestly, it's nice! I can no longer add anything to the list of lenses discussed in this article and in “Examples of photographs taken on the Nikkor 70-300.” Many experienced photographers blame me that, for example, the 16-85 lens that I recommended is unreasonably expensive for beginners. That Nikkor 18-105mm will give a picture no worse.

I would compare choosing a lens for beginners with advice on what car to buy for a beginner. When I was studying for my driving license, I planned to buy a used VAZ 2109, because I thought “I’ll break it anyway.” But there was an experienced person who said: “Sergey, any broken car will have to be repaired one way or another. You will learn to drive in 1 month, and then you will suffer, because you will want to drive a quality car, and after 1 month you will not sell your nine.” He turned out to be right.

It's the same story with glass. I already wrote that I was happy with my KIT 18-55 until I saw photos from the Sigma 18-250. Therefore, I hesitate to recommend KIT 18-55. If you buy one, buy a used one for 2,500 rubles and learn how to shoot. Moderately priced alternatives for such a lens are the Sigma AF 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM and the Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Nikon F. Both lenses have their advantages and disadvantages. Many copies have been broken due to quality. On the Internet you can find both negative and positive reviews owners. I can’t say anything more specific about them, since I haven’t encountered them live. I was planning to buy a Sigma AF 17-50mm/2.8... But, like many other photographers, I am guilty of doubts...

In short, what can I recommend? Decide on the glass model, find real owners and see examples. So you are asking me, is it worth taking the Nikkor 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor as a standard camera? You have read this article with examples of photos taken with this combination of Nikon D5100 body + KIT 18-55, and looked at photographs from an independent trip to Mexico, Sri Lanka and China, taken with the same photographic equipment. Then answer this question: “What do you not like about these photographs, what makes you doubt the correctness of purchasing 18-55 as a KIT?” 😉

I’ll add my “three cents” about kit lens Nikkor 18-55 mm. It's not that he's bad. Rather, it is already bad for advanced amateurs, but for beginner amateurs or simply for people who like to take photographs without particularly bothering with the settings and picture quality, it is very good.

Svetlana, I agree with you. I’ll probably also add that if you buy a body camera and a used Nikkor 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR DX Zoom lens for 2,500 rubles, then this is the cheapest way for a beginner to find out which focal length suits him best. I myself wrote that I once sat down and counted at what focal lengths my photographs were taken from a trip to Mexico on my own. It turned out that the vast majority of frames were shot on wide angle, slightly smaller at 55, 48 and 35mm, and very small at 24mm. Based on this, I decided that my next acquisition would be a wide-angle and... I bought a Nikkor 70-300 telephoto.... 🙂 But this is out of a desire to get good shots while traveling through national parks. I really missed the TV in the Celestun Nature Reserve, where we watched flamingos, and in Yala National Park, where there were a million of all kinds of animals.

Hello Svetlana! Regarding the quality of the picture (don’t bother)... I completely disagree that a beginner should not worry right away, I think from the settings that they will not be immediately recognizable! By and large, the lens gives a lot even if not in the hands of a professional! And thank you for your comment! Many opinions different people- the truth is born that way! We will take it without the Body lens, since our price for it is Far East in Khabarovsk - 15,300 rubles. I'm already planning to pick something up for it. Let's look at examples! Thanks again for the advice, both of you!

If for a film camera the main thing was the quality of the optics and shutter, and the choice of film, developing and printing methods could significantly vary the quality of the frames, then with a digital camera the first thing is the matrix: alas, it cannot be changed.

Let's remember a little physics: when working at maximum resolution, each physical pixel corresponds to one pixel in the image. The more actual sizes of this pixel, the better its signal-to-noise ratio will be, the less the image quality will be affected by the neighboring pixels of the matrix and even its cable (it will always collect some kind of interference, especially in a plastic case).

So, the larger the matrix and the fewer pixels on it, the better. But here the need to have a sufficient number of them comes into force, especially if you plan to print pictures in large format or publish photos in high resolution. As for the size of the matrix, the “reference point” is the full frame, in other words, the matrix of the dimensions of a regular frame of small-format photographic film, 24*36 mm. All smaller matrices are described by a crop factor, the ratio of size to full frame - that is, if an FF matrix has a crop factor of 1, then a matrix with a crop factor of 1.5 will be exactly one and a half times smaller. With the development of modern technologies, more than decent quality is provided by APS-C matrices with a 1.5-1.6 crop, Four Thirds (commonly used by Olympus) and even inch matrices with a 2.7 crop. Smaller sizes will require attention, especially those so often used in inexpensive compacts 1/2.3” (crop 6).

Some analogue of photographic film in digital photography is the RAW format - essentially, raw data from the matrix is saved into a file, which opens up wide possibilities for editing the source. Shooting in JPEG is easier, especially for novice photographers, but often the photo is either compressed with an inevitable loss of quality, or “blurred” by software anti-noise, masking the low quality of the matrix.

Despite the fact that the SLR market is occupied by Japanese manufacturers with 74% of cameras, competition is high. In the battle of the "titans" ( Canon with 48% of the market and Nikon- with 29%) such giants as Sony, Olimpus and Pentax. European companies Victor Hasselblad AB(Sweden) and Leica Camera AG(Germany) are focused on the professional sector of expensive medium format cameras. The famous German “Zeiss” optics are now in cameras Sony, and the creator of the mass hobby for photographic art, American Kodak, practically abandoned the production of finished cameras, refocusing on components for them.

As a result of competition between manufacturers and the development of technology, the range of digital cameras and their electronic “stuffing” are rapidly changing. Before photographers had time to get used to using light-sensitive CCD-type matrices, they were almost replaced by more economical CMOS matrices. The sizes of matrices also change. The size 36x24 mm (full-frame, FF in English and Russian photo slang, respectively) has not only become the norm for the professional segment, but is clearly ready to appear in the semi-professional segment.

Using RAW was the privilege of the pros, and now this format is supported by entry-level cameras, including even digital point-and-shoot cameras. The tendency of many functions to “flow” from the professional segment to the amateur segment fairly confuses the classification of cameras by user groups. But when creating TOP-10 SLR cameras it is impossible to do without their classification.

Let's agree on terms

We will consider only popular mass-produced cameras with a matrix size of no more than 36x24 mm and a price no higher than a mass-produced Russian car, i.e. no more than 260,000 rub. for the Body package (without lens). In general, it’s easier to compare in the professional and semi-professional segments digital cameras specifically separately from lenses for two reasons.

Firstly, the shooting result is very dependent on the lens, and the choice of lens depends on the subjects being photographed.
Secondly, optics practically reached the limits of its perfection already in the era of film cameras.

Professional Let's name cameras that allow you to obtain frames with high speed and quality worthy of glossy magazines and large-format printing. Universal and reportage professional cameras must also be high-performance and suitable for work in different conditions, sufficiently protected from moisture and dust, durable.

If the camera has a crop factor (the ratio of the diagonal of a 36x24 mm frame to the diagonal of the so-called “cropped” matrix) in the range of 1.3 - 1.6, then the camera can be called semi-professional or advanced amateur. Of course, if its other parameters are at high level.

DSLR for Beginners is a device with simple controls, a low price and an inexpensive standard lens, allowing a beginner to master the basics of photography and decide on the direction of further development.

The problem of choosing a camera from the budget price segment is always especially acute for beginners who are trying to understand the variety of models, characteristics and prices. Which Canon camera should you choose? Save money and buy a cheaper DSLR, with only the most necessary set of functions? Or choose the best option in terms of price/quality ratio? Or maybe pay a little extra and get a camera that meets all the requirements of a modern photographer? In any case, the choice is yours. We will help you understand the intricacies and make right choice when purchasing a Canon camera.

Today we have four in a large comparative test SLR cameras Entry-level Canon: Canon EOS 4000D, Canon EOS 1300D, Canon EOS 2000D and Canon EOS 200D. We have already tested each of them separately.

Main characteristics of entry-level models:

	Canon EOS 4000D	Canon EOS 1300D	Canon EOS 2000D	Canon EOS 200D
APS-C sensor	18 MP	18 MP	24.1 MP	24.2 MP
Cleaning the Image Sensor		Manual cleaning and data acquisition for dust removal	Manual cleaning and data acquisition for dust removal	Built-in EOS cleaning system
Focus points	9	9	9	9
Dual Pixel CMOS AF	No	No	No	Yes
CPU	DIGIC 4+	DIGIC 4+	DIGIC 4+	DIGIC 7
Optical viewfinder	Yes (without diopter adjustment)	Yes	Yes	Yes
LCD Screen	2.7 inches (6.8 cm) / approx. 230 thousand pixels		3.0 inches (7.5 cm) / approx. 920 thousand pixels	3.0 inches (7.7 cm) / approx. 1040k dots sRGB / rotatable, touch
Continuous shooting speed	3 fps	3 fps	3 fps	5 fps
Buffer volume, number of files	JPEG: until the memory card is full / RAW: 6 / RAW+JPEG: 5	JPEG:1110 / RAW: 6 / RAW+JPEG: 5	JPEG: 150 / RAW: 11 / RAW+JPEG: 6	JPEG: until the memory card is full / RAW: 11 / RAW+JPEG: 6
Video recording	Full HD 30p	Full HD 30p	Full HD 30p	Full HD 60p
Scene Intelligent Mode	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Wired Interfaces	USB, HDMI	USB, HDMI, remote control	USB, HDMI, remote control	USB, HDMI, remote control, stereo microphone
Wireless interfaces	WiFi	Wi-Fi, NFC	Wi-Fi, NFC	Wi-Fi, NFC, Bluetooth
Built-in flash	Yes	Yes (automatic rise)	Yes (automatic rise)	Yes (automatic rise)
Creative filters	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Photo Companion App	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Dimensions, mm	129.0×101.6×77.1	129.0×101.3×77.6	129.0×101.3×77.6	122.4×92.6×69.8
Weight (with memory card and battery), g	436	485	475	453

As we can see from the table, the simplest model in this team is Canon EOS 4000D, the two middle ones are Canon EOS 1300D and Canon EOS 2000D, and the most advanced is Canon EOS 200D. In the line of Canon DSLRs, the models with the lowest index have always had higher performance, and this is clearly visible here. But why then does the Canon EOS 2000D have an image sensor with a resolution of 24 megapixels, while the Canon EOS 1300D has only 18 megapixels? Let's try to figure out how to get acquainted with cameras.

Let's first see what unites them? The image sensors, on which color rendition and image quality depend, are of the same format (APS-C) in these models, and they are relatively large - 22.3 × 14.9 mm. In our case, the sensors differ in resolution - 18 or 24 megapixels. In all models they are relatively new, except for the Canon EOS 4000D. This is not the first year we have seen a similar sensor in Canon DSLRs. We will still evaluate how different it is from its brothers and whether it differs at all from the picture.

Sensors of the same format are installed in most amateur and even semi-professional DSLRs of recent times. They are usually capable of producing high image quality when shooting in low light and effectively blurring the background when shooting close-up objects.

Canon EOS 200D / Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM SETTINGS: ISO 400, F5.6, 1/50 s, 135.0 mm equiv.

Canon EOS 200D / Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM SETTINGS: ISO 1600, F6.3, 1/1000 s, 300.0 mm equiv.

All cameras have an optical viewfinder, which gives an advantage when shooting in bright sunlight and in focusing speed compared to shooting with a view on the display. In addition, unlike electronic viewfinders, it does not consume battery power, which has a positive effect on battery life. The only difference with the Canon EOS 4000D viewfinder is that it does not have a smooth diopter adjustment (fixed -1.0 D), and people with imperfect vision may find it uncomfortable when shooting without glasses. True, you can look for a replacement E-series diopter adjustment lens with the desired characteristics.

It is also worth mentioning the autofocus system common to all cameras through the viewfinder. It includes 9 phase detection autofocus points that can focus on anything. Each of the 9 points can be selected manually, thereby ensuring high accuracy of focusing on the subject that interests you, and not the camera’s automation. The central sensor is cross-type, which provides increased focusing accuracy.

Also, all cameras are equipped with a Wi-Fi module for remote control camera and transfer the captured images to mobile devices by using free application Camera Connect (for iOS and Android). Now I’ll tell you in more detail about the features of each of the cameras.

Canon EOS 4000D

Everything in this model, from the technical stuffing to the menu with tips and creative modes, tells us that this is the youngest model in the line and is intended for those who are just starting to get acquainted with photography and want to quickly start taking cool pictures with minimal immersion into technical details.

The most important features of the Canon EOS 4000D:

relatively old 18-megapixel image sensor;
2.7-inch built-in LCD screen with a low resolution of 230 thousand dots;
the presence of only a Wi-Fi module for transferring pictures to a smartphone and remote control of the camera;
optical viewfinder without diopter adjustment (see above);
built-in guide-assistant for camera functions.

Canon EOS 4000D is the minimum set of essentials for your first steps in photography.

Canon EOS 1300D and Canon EOS 2000D

Two twin brothers. Not only are these cameras similar to each other, but they are also not much different from the Canon EOS 4000D. I constantly confused them during the preparation of the review. I was afraid not to take any shots with both cameras. The only thing that helped was the nameplate with the name of the model. The differences compared to the Canon EOS 4000D are almost cosmetic.

Main features of Canon EOS 1300D and Canon EOS 2000D:

more modern image sensors: 18 MP in Canon EOS 1300D and 24.1 MP in Canon EOS 2000D;
LCD screen with a diagonal of 3 inches (7.5 cm) and a resolution of 920 thousand pixels;
viewfinder with diopter adjustment;
in addition to Wi-Fi, there is an NFC module for quickly establishing communication with Android devices;
Automatic flash that pops up and fires itself in poor lighting conditions.

We will check the differences in the image produced by the Canon EOS 1300D and Canon EOS 2000D sensors a little later.

Canon EOS 200D

As for the Canon EOS 200D, this is no longer junior level, but rather the middle class, which got the best from older cameras.

Features and benefits of Canon EOS 200D:

Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology for fast and accurate focusing on the LCD screen (49 AF points);
rotating touch screen with a diagonal of 3 inches and a resolution of 1040 thousand sRGB dots;
built-in EOS sensor cleaning system;
more powerful modern DIGIC 7 processor;
continuous shooting up to 5 frames/s;
Full HD video recording at 60 fps;
Wi-Fi, NFC, Bluetooth modules.

But the most important thing is that the Canon EOS 200D stands out from its budget counterparts in terms of accuracy and efficiency of shooting control: Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology and a rotating touch display provide a completely different interaction between the photographer and the camera, since instant refocusing and even shooting with one touch of the LCD are possible. screen. It doesn’t look much like an entry-level DSLR, does it?

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