Long exposure photographs. Flash Sync

Shutter speed is the most understandable and obvious of the three factors that influence exposure and can create the most noticeable effects. If you don't know much about shutter speed, you may end up with blurry or blurry photos. This tutorial will teach you how to choose the right shutter speed for different situations and how to use it to create creative effects.

Step 1 - What is shutter speed in photography?

Without going into unnecessary detail about how the shutter works, shutter speed is the amount of time the shutter opens. If you use a shutter speed longer than a certain one, you will end up with blurry photos in most cases. Shutter speed controls the stops of exposure just like aperture, but much more simply. since the dependence in this case is directly proportional. For example, to reduce the exposure by half, you need to shorten the shutter speed by half, say, from 1/200 to 1/400 of a second.

Step 2 - Motion Blur and Freeze.

Provided you don't blurry photos For creative effect, you will need to choose a fast enough shutter speed (high shutter speed) to prevent blurring. Blurring also depends on the focal length of the lens. A telephoto lens requires a faster shutter speed because even the slightest camera movement will be magnified by the lens. Wide angle lens can work with longer shutter speeds.

Typically, the average person can take a sharp, blur-free photo by setting the shutter speed to the inverse of the focal length. For example, to take a photo at a focal length of 30 mm, you need to set the shutter speed no longer than 1/30 sec. If it is longer. then the likelihood of getting a blurry or blurry image will increase significantly. However, it's worth noting that this applies to a full-frame camera. If the camera sensor is smaller, then the shutter speed should be shortened by the crop factor. For example, for a crop factor of 1.5, the shutter speed will be 1/45 s.

There are exceptions to the rule, for example if the lens has an image stabilization system, which allows you to use much longer shutter speeds. As you learn how to handle your camera and gradually improve your skills, such as how to hold the camera correctly in different situations, you will be able to take sharp photos at longer shutter speeds.

Here's an example of creative motion blur

Freezing

Freezing is much easier to do when shooting. This happens when shooting at a very fast shutter speed (1/500 sec or faster). This shutter speed freezes any movement, and the photo turns out clear, without the slightest blur. Personally, I don’t like to shoot at such fast shutter speeds as the photo will come out flat. Instead, when shooting fast-moving subjects, I try to include a little movement, otherwise the subject will look unnaturally frozen in place. This is shown in the bottom image, the object appears to be suspended in the air.

Step 3 - Correct Shutter Speed ​​for Different Situations

Fast shutter speed for telephoto

Since the photo below was taken with a telephoto lens, it was important to use a fast shutter speed (1/500). If you had a tripod, you could use any shutter speed and cable release to prevent camera vibration. A tripod allows you to hold the camera motionless.

Capture moving subjects in low light conditions.

When you're shooting a subject in low light, such as a concert, the performers are likely to move around the stage. In this case, there is a contradiction between using a fast shutter speed and low light. In this case, you need to use the widest possible aperture and high ISO, which allows you to shoot without moving.

Step 4: Creative Use of Shutter Speed

Creative blur.

By using remote control by releasing the shutter and using a tripod to hold the camera still, you can play with the shutter speed and create interesting images with blur, non-standard photographs.

Adding flash to a blur photo allows you to freeze certain subjects, meaning you can move the camera around for an artistic effect.

Pan

Panning is a technique where you move the camera to follow a moving subject, resulting in the background being blurry and the subject being sharp. This photo was taken from a moving car that was traveling at the same speed as the train.

Drawing with light

To paint with light you need a long shutter speed and a light source. This photo was taken with a 30 second exposure while I was moving and shining the flash on the beach houses. This method is excellent for shooting at night and allows you to add light there. Where would you like to go.

A slow shutter speed combined with the movement of a small constant light source allows you to add a graffiti effect to your image.

Since this photo was taken at night, I used a slow shutter speed and a tripod to get a normal exposure. You can also install the camera on a flat, stationary surface.

This photo required a long exposure, but for a different reason. I had to wait for a passing car to get into the frame, which took quite a long time. It took me about half an hour to find the best camera position and angle before I got the final image.

Long exposure photography is one of my favorite things to do. This allows you to capture something that is different from 99% of the photos on the Internet, and also requires skill and the right equipment.

To work with this type of photography, you need to deliberately increase the exposure time. While a short shutter speed captures the moment, a long shutter speed blurs the movement, creating various effects depending on the subject being photographed.

Everything may seem complicated at first. Most frequently asked question, which arises for beginners: “Why do my long exposure photos turn out white?” Fortunately, fixing this problem is very easy. The first step is to gain a better understanding of the exposure triangle. If you want to read in detail, click on the link, and as part of the article I will give a very short review. A photo's exposure (that is, how bright or dark it is) is determined by three things: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

Shutter speed determines how long the shutter remains open. For most regular photographs, shutter speeds range from 1/60 to 1/500, and we (depending on the subject) will need values ​​from 1/10 of a second to 5 seconds or even 20 minutes. (Many cameras can't handle shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds without Bulb mode, so you'll have to use an external shutter button.) More light will reach the sensor, resulting in a brighter photo. If you leave the shutter open too long, you may end up with just a white canvas. The first step in solving the problem is to adjust the other two vertices of the exposure triangle.

ISO adjusts the sensor's sensitivity to light. Although the technical side is difficult to explain, it is enough to know that higher ISO scales mean a brighter photo. Therefore, when shooting with long exposures, try to set the ISO to the minimum. Most cameras have a threshold level of 100. Some models can even go as low as ISO 64, and Fuji cameras don't allow you to go below 200.

The third edge of the exposure triangle is the aperture. Its value is responsible for the diameter of the hole that transmits light. The larger the aperture value, the wider the hole. However, it is known that the relative lens aperture is indicated in fractional form. That is, f/8 actually means 1/8. Thus, if the aperture number k more, then the relative hole becomes smaller, because 1/16 is several times smaller than 1/4. If your photos turn out white when using slow shutter speeds, try making the aperture narrower by setting a smaller aperture. A good starting point is f/16 and minimum ISO. Also keep in mind that a smaller aperture means more sharpness. If you need a shallow depth of field, you will have to resort to some other methods.

Okay, so you've followed these tips, but you still don't have the answer to your question. If you're shooting at minimum ISO and a small aperture and your photos are still bright, you'll have to resort to one of the following options.

First, shorten your shutter speed. Not every shot needs 20 seconds of exposure. The desired effect can be achieved with 1/2 or even 1/8 s. However, this does not work for every situation. Sometimes there is too much light in the frame, but if you look at the examples below, you can see that some of them were taken with a relatively fast shutter speed (for this type of photography).

If too much light is a problem, find a way to reduce it. For example, just try photographing the same landscape at a darker time of day. Instead of trying to take a photo at midday, take it at sunset or even on a cloudy day. This is one of the reasons why cloudy days Ideal for shooting waterfalls when you need to slightly increase the shutter speed.

In the end, there is a very useful tool for this type of shooting - a neutral density filter. These are ordinary Sunglasses for your lens. Different ND filters have different densities. My personal choice is the 10-stop filter, which allows you to increase the shutter speed by 10 stops. For normal afternoon shooting, a shutter speed of 1/30 sec, ISO 100 and f/16 is required. With this filter, I can take the same photo with a shutter speed of 30 seconds. The most commonly produced filters are 6- and 3-stop. If you need one or two extra stops, you can use a round polarizer.

Once you've figured out how to shoot with long exposures and bought an ND filter, there's a huge amount of interesting ways take advantage of this. Here are a few of my favorite types of photography.

Dreamy ocean landscapes

Have you seen photographs of coastlines whose waves have been transformed into mystical fog? While a short shutter speed will stop the waves, a long shutter speed will blur their movement. The choice of shutter speed depends on the amount of light, wave frequency and water depth. A good starting point is ISO 100, f/16 and 15s.

Lakes

Ripples in the water often spoil photos of lakes. This problem can easily be solved by using a long shutter speed, which completely softens the surface. My ND filter has often saved me from ripples in the water or dull sunsets. The exposure here depends entirely on how strong the waves are. The photo was taken at ISO 200 (the minimum threshold for Fuji cameras), f/16 and a shutter speed of 90 sec.

When I took the photo below, the water was much calmer, so I used a faster shutter speed. These are the camera settings I chose: ISO 200, f/18, 5 s. If you look closely, you will notice another difficulty when working with long exposures - the tree on the left side has become blurred due to the wind.

Waterfalls

Perhaps it was waterfalls that initially inspired me to try long exposure photography. I endlessly looked at photographs of silky smooth waterfalls and really wanted to understand how it was done. The big plus is that you don't need too long a shutter speed when shooting waterfalls. But it is important to determine what part of the movement you want to convey. It's very easy to end up with a waterfall that doesn't have any context. Sometimes this is useful, but usually I still try to make the waterfall not completely blurry.

I wanted to keep most of the movement of Panther Creek Falls, so I set it to ISO 200, f/18, 1/8 sec.

Due to the darkness of this canyon, I had no choice, so I had to sacrifice the expressiveness of the waterfall and photograph it at ISO 800, f/11.8 sec.

In the example below, I deliberately left out the sharpness to give the waterfall the appearance of a long silken cascade. The camera settings were: ISO 200, f/16, 5 s.

Stripes of light

Another favorite example of mine. Light streaks are red or yellow/white lines that appear in a photograph due to the headlights of passing cars. Here, the shutter speed is determined by how fast the cars are going. This is quite easy to do if a certain light source passes through the frame and you just need to count the time it takes to do this. However, when in the frame more cars and light sources, things get more complicated. Below I have provided several examples showing camera settings.

Here a lot of restraint was required, since two streams of cars were moving in different directions. It was necessary to capture the end of one light source and the beginning of another. ISO 200, f/18, 15 sec.

When photographing the Brandenburg Gate, I was lucky because the flow of cars was moving at the same time. I took this photo at ISO 200, f/16 and 2.5s.

The photo below wasn't easy to take because there were a lot of car lines in the frame that needed to be captured. ISO 200, f/16, 45 sec.

If you need more inspiration, there are other ways to work with long exposures. Look for examples online and see how you can get amazing clouds, how to work with camera wiring, etc.

Shutter speed is the amount of time it takes the camera to capture a photo. Different meanings exposures will help you create cool effects, capture movement, and convey dynamics in a photo. So let's start looking at everything point by point below. Go!

The concept of endurance

When we shoot, the light is read by the film or matrix of the camera. Until the shooting process itself has begun, the matrix or film is closed with a shutter. As soon as we start taking photographs, the shutter opens so that the matrix or film can receive the image. Shutter speed is the time the shutter is closed.

Shutter speed measurement

It is measured in fractions of a second or in seconds and is designated: 1/8000 s, 1/1000 s, 1/125 s, 1 s, 2 s and so on. For example, a shutter speed of 1/100 means one hundredth of a second (0.01 sec.). Therefore, shutter speed is also called exposure time - it is during this period of time that light acts on the matrix. Most cameras provide a wide range of possible shutter speeds, ranging from a few thousandths of a second to several seconds. DSLR cameras usually have a “Bulb” mode, which allows you to keep the shutter open as long as necessary.

Setting the shutter speed

You can manually change the camera shutter speed only in two modes: manual “M” and shutter priority “Tv”. For this:

1. Go to desired mode, find the field with the shutter speed value
2. Rotate the wheel and watch the shutter speed settings change
3. Ready! Just experiment

Short shutter speed

A short shutter speed captures the moment and captures the scene in a split second. We use it to shoot those objects that we want to capture in motion. These could be sporting events or children's parties, a variety of dynamic scenes. It is also used for shooting objects: static and moving. With static ones, everything is simple - the amount of light that enters the frame depends on the shutter speed length, as in the photograph with roses. If the subject or photographer is moving, we simply need the fastest possible shutter speed. A short shutter speed will allow you to achieve high-quality images without any blurring. A shutter speed of up to 1 second is considered short.

Long exposure

A long shutter speed does not capture the moment, but shows its continuation, dynamics, and movement. It is used in low light conditions, great for shooting in the evening and at night, and shooting indoors. Long shutter speeds require the use of a high-quality tripod. But you shouldn’t indulge in long shutter speeds, because there is a risk of noise appearing in the picture. A shutter speed of 1 second is considered long. The longer we take the shutter speed, the more blurred the movement will be.

The most popular effects created using long exposures:

• Fire trail. As already mentioned, we shoot only from a tripod; even minimal shaking will ruin the photo (it will blur) and we use a cable or timer to release the shutter. In order to make the expressive effect of movement more beautiful in photographs, some scenes need to be shot at a very long shutter speed and at a low sensitivity value (for example, 100 or 200 ISO). As a last resort, if the subject is not clearly depicted in the frame, the light sensitivity can be increased slightly - up to 400 ISO units.

• Using a neutral gray filter, which increases the exposure time, you can also take cool photos of the surf, waterfalls, where the water looks like quick sand or a cloud. In fact, the best example is water. When photographing with a long shutter speed, the water appears as a smooth flow, and when photographing with a short shutter speed, it “freezes”, and you can even see individual drops.

• If you follow a moving subject with a camera at a shutter speed of 1/60, the background will blur, but the subject will not.

• At a shutter speed of ¼, you get enchanting photographs of rain: the drops appear in long lines.

• The city at night and its lights can be captured with a shutter speed of 30 seconds.

Camera shake

When we hold the camera in our hands, shake appears. No matter how stable you think you are, you still won’t be able to stand absolutely static, and the smallest movements will appear in the pictures as blur and lack of sharpness.

To avoid camera shake, you can use a fast shutter speed. This is especially important when using long lenses, because the more focal length lens, the more you need to shorten the shutter speed to eliminate shake.

As a rule, the minimum possible shutter speed will be 1/(lens focal length) second. For example, for a 200mm lens, use at least a shutter speed of 1/200.

Camera shutter speed– one of the two key parameters that determine. The second is the lens aperture, and together with the shutter speed they make up the so-called exposure pair, on which the amount of light energy entering the photosensitive surface of the matrix depends. Both shutter speed and aperture are very important when photographing any subject. Here we will look at shutter speed and give recommendations on how to set it.

Shutter speed units and standard values

Excerpt- this is the duration of exposure to light on the photosensitive sensor of the camera, no matter whether it is film or matrix. It is measured in seconds. In order to standardize shutter speed values ​​and make it easier for photographers to communicate with each other, it has been accepted since ancient times that adjacent shutter speeds of a standard series differ from each other by 2 times, or by one step(i.e., mathematically they represent powers of two) - ... 32 sec., 16 sec., 8 sec., 4 sec., 2 sec., 1 sec., 1/2 sec., 1/4 sec., 1 /8 sec., 1/16 sec., 1/32 sec., 1/64 sec., 1/128 sec., 1/256 sec., 1/512 sec., 1/1024 sec., 1/2048 sec., ... etc.

However, to further simplify a number of excerpts, the standard ISO(and before that by the Soviet GOST) some values ​​were rounded to a multiple of 5, as a result of which the series took the following form: ... 30 sec., 15 sec., 8 sec., 4 sec., 2 sec., 1 sec., 1/2 sec., 1/4 sec., 1/8 sec., 1/15 sec., 1/30 sec., 1/60 sec., 1/125 sec., 1/250 sec., 1/ 500 sec., 1/1000 sec., 1/2000 sec., 1/4000 sec., 1/8000 sec., ... etc., i.e., some values ​​differ from each other not exactly 2 times , but only approximately. It is believed that this does not affect the accuracy of shutter speed determination, since rounding is within the limits of exposure metering error and natural sensitivity variation.

To shorten the recording of shutter speed on the camera controls or on the display, the numerator of the fraction is usually omitted and the shutter speed is recorded integer denominator. To distinguish long exposures on the left side of the row, they are given a second designation. Thus, on the display or shutter speed dial you will often see the following sequence: ... 30”, 15”, 8”, 4”, 2”, 1”, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500 , 1000, 2000, 4000, 8000, … . Many cameras have intermediate shutter speeds, for example... 60, 80, 100, 125,..., but standard series always present.

Camera shutter speedand the law of reciprocity

Determining exposure in photography is based on the law of reciprocity, which states that doesn't matter, due to which exposure pair parameter the exposure changes. For example, to increase the exposure by one step, you can increase the aperture by one step, or you can increase the shutter speed, but the exposure result will be the same. All modern exposure metering is based on this.

However, with very short and very long excerpts, the law of reciprocity may be violated. In film photography, the violation of the law of reciprocity is described by the Schwarzschild effect. It is observed at shutter speeds longer than 1 second and shorter than 1/1000 second. For example, at shutter speeds from 1 to 10 seconds it is recommended to increase the aperture by 1 stop, from 10 to 100 seconds by 2 stops, over 100 by 3.

Concerning matrices, then they have no way of violating the law of reciprocity does not appear. I was trying to discover something similar to the Schwarzschild effect in digital camera, but in the shutter speed range up to 30 seconds I couldn’t do it; the exposure metering worked like a charm. Perhaps there are some effects at longer shutter speeds, but this is the task of a scientific experiment, practical significance It doesn't have a shutter speed setting.

Testing the shutter speed of the camera

Shutter speed in modern cameras is implemented in 2 ways: either electromechanically shutter, or electronic system management matrix. In the first case, a mechanical shutter controlled by an electronic circuit allows light to enter the matrix for the duration of a pre-calculated shutter speed. In the second case, there is no shutter as a separate unit, and the exposure time is processed by the camera processor as the time between two sequential states matrices. Gate valves are usually used in DSLR cameras and expensive compacts, and electronic system in cheaper ones.

Shutters come in aperture and focal length types. Aperture The shutter is located in the lens and is rigidly connected to it. Most often, such shutters are designed as central ones, i.e., the petals blocking the light flux open from the center to the edges and close the other way around. The advantage of the aperture shutter is the ability to work at shorter shutter speeds when shooting with .

Focal the shutter is installed in front of the matrix and does not depend on the lens used, therefore it is used in . Its design consists of several metal slats moving along the short side of the frame window. The disadvantage of such shutters is that they are difficult to synchronize with pulsed light sources, such as photo flashes, since the matrix must be completely open at the moment of the light pulse. If a flash occurs while the slats are moving, only part of the frame will be exposed. This imposes restrictions on the sync speed (i.e. the shutter speed at which the sensor fully opens), which is rarely shorter than 1/250 sec, which means that it can be difficult to highlight shadows on a sunny day. But this is a rather rare case.

Shutter speed when shooting dynamic scenes

Excerpt plays key role in motion photography. If it is too long, then the frame will turn out blurry, and it will be impossible to correct it even in Photoshop. Sometimes long exposures, on the contrary, are used as a technical technique to obtain artistic effects, for example, when photographing water in a river or a waterfall. First, let's look at how to adjust the shutter speed to eliminate blur in the frame.

The shutter speed at which a shot is obtained without blur depends on 4 factors:

1. From travel speed subject of shooting. The faster it moves, the slower the shutter speed should be. For example, a slowly walking pedestrian can be photographed with a shutter speed of 1/20 sec. But a car driving around the city with a permit maximum speed 60 km/h, in 1/20 of a second a distance of about 1 meter travels, so at the same shutter speed the image will be blurry;
2. From distances to the subject. The farther it is, the longer the shutter speed you can take a high-quality shot. If our pedestrian passes 1 meter from the camera, then with a shutter speed of 1/20 we will not be able to photograph him;
3. From angle values, under which the object moves towards the direction of the lens line of sight. If it moves, for example, directly towards us (angle 0°), then it can be shot at a fairly long shutter speed. But movement at an angle of 90° gives the greatest lubrication effect;
4. From focal length lens. The larger its value, the larger the object in the frame at the same distance to it, and therefore, even the slightest movement will lead to significant blurring of the image.

Here is a small table that will help approximately Determine the maximum shutter speed at which you can still get sharp shots of moving objects. Let's assume that you are shooting with a standard lens with an equivalent focal length of about 50 mm, or zoom with a focus close to this value. The distance to the object is greater 5 meters. These are fairly common shooting conditions.

This table gives a clear idea of ​​what shutter speeds should be used to shoot moving objects to avoid blurring of the image. A special case is one that occurs when shooting handheld or when the camera is not in a stable enough position. If the shooting conditions are non-standard, the distance to the subject is shorter, or the lens is longer, then shutter speeds should be even shorter and a correction must be made, which can be determined, first of all, from practical experience.

Now I’ll briefly talk about those shooting cases when, on the contrary, you need to get a blurry image.

Shooting "with wiring". Allows you to make a sharp image of the object and blur the background, which creates the effect of fast movement. Point and move the camera so that the moving object remains in the frame at all times. In this way you can very effectively film, for example, car and motorcycle races. top scores obtained with exposure 1/60 – 1/100 sec. Longer shutter speeds will blur the subject, while shorter shutter speeds will prevent the background from being blurred.

Shooting waterfall or fast flowing water. The best effect occurs with exposure 1/20 – 1/50 sec., when the splashes are slightly smeared and very well represent the movement of the water flow. If the shutter speed is shorter, the effect of movement disappears and the water freezes. If it is longer, then it is smeared into milk with a lack of small details.

You probably noticed that all the recommendations are of a qualitative nature, although they are very useful when adjusting the shutter speed. For those who love precise definitions, I will give a formula that allows you to completely definitely calculate at what shutter speeds a moving object is guaranteed to be captured harsh. All factors affecting image blur are taken into account here:

t = zR sin α / fv ;

Where: t– shutter speed in seconds; z– diameter of the blur disk on the matrix in cm; R– distance to the object in meters; f– focal length of the lens in cm, v– object speed in m/sec; α – the angle between the direction of movement of the subject and the optical axis of the lens. The diameter of the blur disk for a full-frame 24x36 mm matrix can be taken equal to 0.003 cm; for smaller matrices this value must be divided by the crop factor.

Let's compare with our table. For example, let it be a car moving at a distance of 20 meters perpendicular to the shooting line (α = 90°, sin 90°=1) at a speed of 50 km/h (13.9 m/sec) and we use a lens with a focal length of 50 mm (5 cm). We get:

t = 0.003*20*1/5/13.9 = 0.00086 sec = 1/1162 sec

which agrees well with the table.

Thus, we examined the main factors influencing endurance in a modern camera. If you put these recommendations into practice, you will be able to photograph a moving car, a running athlete, or a falling waterfall. But of course, more complex artistic techniques will only be mastered with experience, so shoot, shoot, shoot!

Your camera is a tool that will help you capture any moment, be it the setting sun on the seashore or a beautiful model girl in the studio. Do good photo sometimes it's not that simple. Every camera has automatic settings, but they are limited in many ways. The most important concepts you need to know in order to independently manage the photography process are photosensitivity, aperture and shutter speed.

Required settings

Creative modes in the camera are designated by the letters P, S, A, M. If you select one of them, the more possibilities set the camera settings at your own discretion. So, in program mode (P), you can change the light sensitivity of the matrix (ISO) and white balance; Shutter priority (S, Tv) or aperture priority (A, Av), respectively, allow you to set the shutter speed and aperture parameters that the photographer needs. Of greatest interest is the manual mode (M), in which all of the listed nuances are completely dependent on the user. This, in turn, allows you to realize the idea associated with ultimately obtaining a certain picture

Aperture (or aperture) is an opening in the camera lens, the size of which is regulated by a partition. The partition can be open more or less, which affects the characteristics of the resulting photograph: not only the degree of illumination, but its depth. The objects being photographed can be all in focus, including the background, or they can be only partially in focus, with one object or its elements being clear, and everything behind being relatively blurry. This effect is most suitable for making expressive photographs of flowers, animals, or a portrait of a person. The aperture can have values ​​from 1 to 32, depending on the perfection of technology, and is denoted as f/k, where k is its coefficients.

Shutter speed is the length of time during which a certain amount of light can penetrate the shutter of a photographic lens. Accordingly, it is measured in seconds. The camera's shutter speed range can be from 30 seconds to hundredths and thousandths, for example, 1/500, 1/1000 and less. Shutter speed can make the frame lighter or darker, and the sharpness of the picture also depends on it.

Photosensitivity. Its relationship with aperture and shutter speed

The camera's aperture and shutter speed are two important parameters that determine the correct exposure of the frame. But, besides them, there is another one - photosensitivity, that is, the sensitivity of the camera matrix to light. 100, 200, 400 and 800 are standard values ​​for ISO, but the range can be larger. The lower the photosensitivity, the higher the image quality; the higher the sensitivity, the lower the amount of noise in the image. At the same time, high sensitivity allows you to shoot even at night.

The potential of the camera in terms of setting the required conditions environment shutter speed or aperture values ​​can be quite small. In this case, the photosensitivity parameter will come to the rescue. To be able to better adjust the timing and opening of the lens, you just need to raise the ISO a little.

The simpler the camera, the easier it is to set any parameter on it. In semi-professional or professional equipment, you can use not only the main menu for this. Usually the camera has such a button marked “i”, it provides information about the current settings based on which the photo will be taken, and allows you to edit them. When you press it, we go to a section with different symbols - letters and numbers. Using the arrows on the panel on the right, you can select to change the image size, focus points, shutter speed, etc. For convenience, the shutter speed on the camera can be adjusted by rotating the control dial located at the top right. By the way, the “+/-” button refers to the aperture, and if you press and hold it while scrolling the mentioned dial, you can vary the size of the hole in the lens through which light passes.

Shutter Features

Shutter speed on a camera is very important for getting good shots, because such an important fact as the clarity and brightness of the image depends on it. To use it correctly, you need to know some basics. Let's start with the fact that if a long shutter speed is chosen, the photo will be of high quality with all the details preserved - you will get a well-lit landscape, portrait or object, but if they are at rest. You can take photos in darker conditions. A slow shutter speed on a camera is more often used in this case with a tripod that stabilizes the camera. Otherwise, any hand movement may blur the photo. In a short period of time, little light will penetrate the matrix, so the picture may be underexposed despite its high clarity. The advantage of a short shutter speed is the ability to shoot in motion.

Do not forget that the aperture and shutter speed of the camera depend on each other, affecting the entire exposure. Small apertures require longer shutter speeds since the amount of light will be initially limited. Also, a very open aperture determines the setting of a shorter exposure time. The opposite is also true.

Shutter speed for moving subjects and sporting events

The question arises of how to make an exposure on a camera if we're talking about about reporting or photographing sports? As was said, unlike a long shutter speed, a short shutter speed is able to “freeze the moment” of the movement of something or someone, maintaining the sharpness of the image. And with a long frame, the frame will turn out blurry, although in some cases such blurriness may be appropriate.

So, the speed of an object or subject has an inverse relationship to shutter speed:

1. Walking, slow running - 1/125-1/250 of a second.
2. Hockey, boxing, etc. - 1/250-1/500 sec.
3. Auto, motorsports - about 1/1000 sec.
4. Photography with tracking of an object - no more than 1/30-1/60 sec.

Think about the plot itself, it shouldn't be boring. To do this, you need to study the area and interesting shooting points. If it's football, hockey, etc., then the ball or puck should be in the frame. You should also leave a certain distance, free space in front of a moving object or person. It is useful to pay attention to the emotions of athletes during and after the game - you can capture very interesting moments. All this will add liveliness to the report.

Long exposure experiments

By changing the value of just one parameter - the shutter speed on the camera - you can present familiar scenes in a new way and create new techniques. Particularly amazing shots are obtained with long exposures. An example is the classic photography of water in a river, raindrops, or a snowstorm, when blurriness creates the magic of the landscape.

Let's say you're taking pictures at night. Here, using a long shutter speed, you can film the movement of cars so that only the road remains in the picture, since it is stable, and there are stretching yellow-red light rays on it - the movement of cars with their headlights on. Dynamics will appear throughout the frame. Professional photographers use this effect to colorfully capture the movement of stars. For this, a tripod or a stationary, flat surface is required.

Long exposures in “Bulb Mode”

Any camera has a shutter speed setting function, and it can be set to a maximum of 30 seconds, which is quite enough to get interesting pictures. However, there is more professional photographic equipment equipped with an additional “Bulb Mode”. It provides the author with the opportunity to select any time interval - minutes or even hours, during which the camera shutter will be open. Despite the fact that Bulb requires a lot of energy for its operation, a device for fixing equipment and, ideally, a remote control remote control, he will soon justify himself in his work. Fireworks, night skies, light painting and much more will be fully accessible.

Golden mean

According to professionals, the light sensitivity of the sensor, the aperture, or aperture, and shutter speed on the camera are the “three pillars of photography.” Their various combinations determine the resulting clarity of photographed elements, brightness of colors, degree of illumination of objects, blurred background, etc. Skillful handling of the settings will allow you to shoot in almost any external conditions and with any effects. Studying specialized literature and, of course, personal practice will help in mastering the multifaceted art of photography.