Aleppo in photographs: What the largest city in Syria looked like before the war, and what it is like now. Aleppo: the northern capital of Syria
Before the war began, in 2010, the Syrian city of Aleppo was the most big cities in the country. More than 4.6 million inhabitants lived here. In 2006, the city won the title “Capital of Islamic Culture”. In 2012, during the Civil War, Aleppo became the scene of fierce fighting. How much this place has changed and what happened during the hostilities can be clearly seen in our selection of photographs.
As you can see in the photographs, a large part of the city lies in ruins. And this is not just minor damage to individual buildings, but serious destruction, many of which simply cannot be reconstructed. There are still people living in the city, but their numbers have decreased significantly. The war is already five years old, casualties number in the tens of thousands, millions of people were forced to flee their homes, leaving behind everything their families had acquired for several generations. The damage caused by the war to Aleppo was considered catastrophic.
Where ancient churches, mosques and fortresses once stood, now lie ruins. Almost all the sites that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List were destroyed or damaged. Thus, the Great Mosque of Aleppo was severely damaged, and the only minaret of the mosque was completely destroyed. The walls of the Citadel are now riddled with bullet holes, and the famous Al Madina market has burned to the ground. This once beautiful, bustling city has become a symbol of the horrors of the aftermath of war.
2016
2008
Aleppo, Syria's second largest city, was until a few years ago a major economic and industrial center and one of the country's main tourist attractions.
But four years of war have left much of the listed Old Town in ruins World Heritage UNESCO.
After most of the rebels began to leave eastern Aleppo, the city came under the control of government forces. At the same time, there is growing evidence of destruction and changes that have occurred in the city over the past few years.
Citadel
Interactive
2016
2010
The Aleppo Citadel, built in the 13th century, is one of the symbols of the city. But now its walls are dotted with traces of war.
Bashar al-Assad's troops used the citadel as a defensive structure, so it was often attacked by rebels.
Great Mosque of Aleppo: 6October2010, 17 December2016 of the year
To the west of the Citadel is the Great Mosque of Aleppo, or Umayyad Mosque, built between the 8th and 13th centuries. Today it lies in ruins. Its 45-meter-high minaret was destroyed three years ago.
Church and shcolaAsh-Shibani
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2016
2009
The Al-Shibani Church and School, dating back to the 12th century, served as an exhibition center and venue for cultural events after extensive restoration work.
Now the center is badly damaged and needs restoration.
Hammam al-Nahasin:6 October2010, 17 December2016 of the year
Illustration copyright Reuters
The Hammam al-Nahasin baths were built in the 13th century and are located in the very center of the old market. Before the war, these men's baths were very popular among tourists.
Tshopping center Shaba Mall: 12December 2009, 16 October 2014 of the year
Illustration copyright Reuters
It was not only the old city that was destroyed. As a result of the fighting, one of the largest shopping centers in Aleppo, Shaba Mall, was severely damaged.
For some time, the center was reportedly used by Islamic State militants as a prison, but it was later captured by militants from the rival Islamist group al-Nusra Front.
The Christian Quarter, built in the 16th century and located in Aleppo, originates from the Old City and extends to the north. In ancient times it was home to Christian communities and has preserved numerous churches and beautiful residences to this day. The quarter is also a reflection of the diversity of cultures and religions: Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, Gregorian and others.
Among the many residential premises with low facades, the Museum building stands out noticeably folk art and traditions, revealing valuable secrets of the country.
Today, the Christian Quarter is full of charm, and some of its old houses have been converted into hotels, boutiques selling Western brands and chic restaurants.
Citadel in Aleppo
The Citadel is a fortress in the center of Aleppo, which was built in the years 944-967.
The construction of the first fortifications was carried out by the founder of the fortress, the ruler of Aleppo Saif al-Dola. During the Crusades, the fortress served as a stronghold for both one side and the other.
In the very early XIII centuries, the fortress grew and turned into a rich city. On its territory there were mosques, palaces, an arsenal, warehouses and many other necessary buildings. The city began to develop beyond the fortress walls only after 1516, when the city was captured by the Ottoman Empire.
Unfortunately, the fortress was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1828, the consequences of which are still being tried to be eliminated in our time.
The fortress is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
What sights of Aleppo did you like? Next to the photo there are icons, by clicking on which you can rate a particular place.
Rasafa Ghost Town
The dead city of Rasafa is one of the most interesting attractions in Syria. The city is located in the east of the country, near the city of Raqqa. Getting to the city is not at all easy - there is no public transport here, and therefore you can get there by car or taxi along a broken dirt road from Al Mansur or Palmyra, or along the modern Raqqa-Aleppo highway.
In ancient times, the city changed its name several times. The last name of the city in inhabited status is Sergiopolis (“city of Sergius”). It received this name due to the events associated with the death of one of the Christian saints -Reverend Sergius, who was brutally murdered in Rasafa during the Diocletian Christian persecution.
Today this city is abandoned. In the 13th century, its inhabitants moved to the city of Hama by order of Sultan Baybars.
And although these days the city is almost completely hidden under a layer of sand, it makes an indelible impression. It can rightfully be called one of the most majestic, mysterious and beautiful" dead cities"Syria.
The city is built from marble-like limestone, similar to pink mica, so the city simply sparkles and shimmers in the sunset.
The most significant and interesting monuments of Rasafa: city gates, cathedral, basilica, ancient water tanks, city walls and towers.
There is more than one mosaic museum in Syria, but the museum located in the city of Maarat al-Numan deserves special attention. It has the most diverse and rich exposure compared to others. The building in which it is located is noteworthy - it is a caravanserai built in the 16th century for travelers and merchants.
The territory of the museum complex occupies several hectares. Here are collected Roman and Byzantine mosaics from the 6th century, brought from nearby dead cities, floor and wall paintings depicting animals, mythological heroes and gods, everyday scenes, as well as rare mosaic icons and ornamental fragments. You can also see sarcophagi and tombstones, pottery, and stone tomb doors.
Photography in the museum premises is strictly prohibited; you can only photograph those exhibits that are located under open air, and always without a flash - according to the museum administration, bright light adversely affects the condition of the mosaics.
Church of St. Simeon
The Church of St. Simeon the Stylite was built by Simeon’s disciple, St. Daniel the Stylite, who turned to Emperor Leo the First with a request to perpetuate the memory of his teacher.
However, the church was built under another emperor, Zeno, around the 5th century. The building was built in an octagonal form with a diameter of 30 meters with exedra, and in the middle of the building there is a high pillar on which Saint Simeon labored for the last 33 years out of the 47 years he was on the pillars. The building is covered with a wooden dome in the form of an octagonal pyramid 40 meters high.
In the 10th century, the temple complex was surrounded by fortress walls with 27 towers, which became the beginning of the emergence of Simeon's fortress. In the 12th century, the fortress was captured by the crusaders, and a century later the building fell into disrepair. Numerous pilgrims always came here for a piece of the column of St. Simeon, which was believed to help against illnesses.
Archaeological site of Sergilla
The dead city of Serjilla (Sergil) is located 60 kilometers from Aleppo, near the city of Maarat al-Numan. In addition to Sergilla, there is a whole network of ancient Byzantine settlements scattered here, most of them well preserved. The first houses date back to the 3rd-4th century AD; the heyday of cities in this area dates back to the 4th-6th centuries.
Sergilla attracts tourists and researchers from all over the world. A large-scale archaeological site has been developed here, and excavations continue to this day. In a relatively small area, Roman baths, residential villas, a church built in 372 (the oldest in the region), a necropolis with tombs carved into stone, and oil presses have been preserved. You can also see watchtowers and a tavern building here. The reason why the residents left the city is still unknown, but all the buildings have been preserved almost unchanged - some are missing only roofs and ceilings between floors.
Surgilla offers organized tours that leave from the hotel, but you can come and wander the streets ancient city on one's own.
Al Madina Market
Al-Madina market, located in the Syrian city of Aleppo, is considered the largest covered market in the world, with long story. Most souks (covered markets) have existed here since the 14th century. The 13-kilometer-long market also contains caravanserais designed to house merchants and store goods, many of which are architectural monuments.
Luxury goods from other countries and locally produced goods are sold here. Prices are significantly lower than at the famous Al-Hamidiya market in Damascus. At the Al Madina market you can buy everything from copper jewelry to expensive silks. The best souvenir from Aleppo is considered to be natural olive soap, which is produced by local soap factories with 300-500 years of tradition. You can find it in one of the parts of the huge market, which is called Suq Al-Saboun.
Since 1986, as part of the Old City of Aleppo, Al Madina Market has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. During mortar attacks in 2012, many parts of the market were badly damaged or completely destroyed.
Armenian Apostolic Church of the Forty Martyrs
The Cathedral of the Forty Martyrs, belonging to the Armenian Apostolic Church, is located on the site of an earlier building (a Christian chapel). The first mention of this cathedral dates back to 1476; the building acquired its current appearance at the beginning of the 17th century. This is one of the many churches of the Armenian Apostolic Church located in Syria.
The Cathedral of the Forty Martyrs is notable for its ancient and modern icons, among which the Last Judgment (early 18th century) occupies a special place. The design of the cathedral is interesting - it does not have a dome, but there are three altars. The interior of the Church of the Forty Martyrs corresponds to the traditions of Armenian churches - it is strict, even ascetic, and does not differ in pomp. The temple underwent numerous reconstructions, for a long time it was the spiritual center of the Armenian diaspora in Syria. Even an entire Armenian quarter grew up around it, which until recently was lively and prosperous. Now, due to the tense political situation, many residents have left it. Currently, the Cathedral of the Forty Martyrs is one of the oldest churches in Aleppo, there is a museum here.
Great Mosque of Aleppo
The Great Mosque of Aleppo or the Umayyad Mosque was built in 715. Here, according to legend, is the grave of Father John the Baptist Zacharias.
The Great Mosque is the oldest and largest mosque in Aleppo.
Particularly noteworthy is the 45-meter minaret, which was restored during the time of Abul Hasan Muhammad in 1090. Unfortunately, during its history, the mosque was destroyed after a fire, which allowed Sultan Nur ed-Din Zengid to restore and slightly expand its area in 1169.
The minaret is decorated with carved inscriptions and ornaments. The courtyard is famous for its black and white stone pavement, which forms various geometric shapes.
The most popular attractions in Aleppo with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose best places to visit famous places of Aleppo on our website.
“Middle Eastern civilizations have always attracted the attention of European travelers and researchers with the beauty of the ruins of their ancient cities. Of all the countries in the region, it is Syria that boasts an abundance of ancient monuments. Palmyra, Ebla (now Tell Mardikh), Damascus, Aleppo (Aleppo) - this is just a small list of the most ancient cities in this country. Until now, scientists from all over the world are conducting scientific debates on the topic of the ancient urban center of Syria. This right is disputed by two rivals: Aleppo and Damascus.”
Most researchers believe Aleppo (European name city) the most ancient city in the country. Many scientists claim that the first settlement here was founded in the 6th millennium BC. The city was located at the intersection of important trade routes connecting Near East With Europe And India. The greatness and wealth of Aleppo made it tidbit for his neighbors. The city changed hands more than once. Throughout its history, Aleppo was captured by the Hittites, Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Turks. Today it is one of the largest cities in Syria by population, located in the north-west of the country and populated mainly by Arabs.
There is rather scant information about the true meaning of the name and the first inhabitants. It is believed that the first settlement was founded in 5000 BC. This is confirmed by various tools discovered on the territory of the ancient city. In some records of neighboring peoples Aleppo referred to as Halpe And Halibon. True meaning The toponym is still a mystery to scientists. Some of them claim that the name of the city is of Semitic origin and means either “iron” or “copper”. It is believed that it was here that the first metallurgists learned to mine and process these metals. However, there are other versions. According to another hypothesis, the Amorites who settled in Syria in the 2nd millennium BC called the city “Halaba,” which translates from their language as “white.” In support of this assumption, it should be noted that the soil in Aleppo is light in color, and the city has been the main center for marble mining in the region since ancient times. Another version is based on the myth according to which Abraham treated travelers with the milk of his red cow and therefore the toponym Aleppo means “giving (presenting) milk.” Even less is known about the city's first settlers. Ethnic composition of the population throughout the entire period of existence Aleppo changed more than once. It is believed that the first inhabitants of Aleppo were of Semitic origin. Then the above-mentioned Amorites, who were also Semites, settled on the territory of Syria. The further conquest of the country by the Hittites, Assyrians, Greeks and Romans significantly influenced National composition population. After the Arab conquest of Syria and the transfer of the Umayyad capital to Damascus, the ethnic balance of the country no longer changed. The city has a small Armenian diaspora, Syrian Orthodox Christians and Catholics, and a relatively minuscule number of Syrian Jews.
Aleppo, Since ancient times, it has been famous as an important trading center through which caravan routes passed. This ancient Middle Eastern city, thanks to its advantageous geographical location and the wealth of natural resources, could not help but attract the attention of neighboring peoples and changed hands more than once. It is reported in early Hittite Anatolian records. The city is also mentioned in ancient list Marie- a city located near the Euphrates River in northeastern Syria. In the second half of the 2nd millennium BC, Aleppo found itself part of the Hittite state and quite long time was considered a strategically important center of the Hittite state in the south, as well as a crossing point for caravan routes going mainly from Egypt and back. However, after the invasion of the so-called “peoples of the sea”, the Hittite state fell. For some time, the influence of another ancient Syrian city increased - Damascus, which subjugates neighboring territories to its power. However, already in the 9th century BC, all of Syria was part of a powerful Assyrian power, as part of which it lasted until the 7th century BC, when the capital of the Assyrians, Nineveh, was captured by the troops of the Neo-Babylonian kingdom and Media in 612 BC, and the territories under its control were divided between the allies. Syria went first. However, in the 6th century BC, a new competitor appeared on the horizon in the person of the sharply risen Achaemenid powers. The first Persian king, Cyrus II, who founded his state on the site of Media, sought to seize neighboring lands. In 539 BC, Babylon fell to the Persian army. All its former colonies were transferred to the growing Persian Empire. The next masters of Syria were the Macedonians. In 331 BC, Alexander the Great defeated the troops of Darius III at the Battle of Gaugamela. The once powerful Achaemenid state fell. All her possessions were part of the new empire. After the death of the great commander, all the territories he conquered were divided among his comrades. Aleppo, like all of Syria, became part of the Seleucid Empire. Under the first kings, Aleppo was rebuilt and received a new name - Berea. The role of Aleb as important shopping center increases again. However, at the same time, its next competitor in the person of Palmyra. For almost 3 centuries, Syria was part of the Seleucids. In 64 BC, almost the entire territory of this country was captured by the Roman legions of Pompey. After the complete subjugation of Palmyra in the 3rd century, Aleppo became the main center of trade in the Middle East, taking this title from its long-time rival. The city has retained its significance as part of Byzantine Empire. In 637, Syria fell under the blows of new conquerors - the Arabs. The importance of the country is confirmed by the fact that one of its central cities, namely Damascus, in 661 became the capital of the Arab Umayyad dynasty, which remained in power until 750. Aleppo continued to remain significant center trade. In 944, the ruler of Hamadan, Saif al-Daul, took advantage of the weakness of the Abbasids and captured Aleppo. During this period, fortress walls and gates were built. Under him, the city retains its status as one of the most important points of caravan routes. However, in 962, the Byzantine ruler Nikephoros Phocas managed to return Aleppo to the empire. Since the end of the 11th century, at Near East The crusaders carry out their first campaign, driven by the call of the Pope. The Second Crusade could not but affect Aleppo. The crusaders were unable to take the fortress by storm and were forced to retreat. However, the seizure of neighboring territories dealt a blow to Aleb's trade. Even before the start of the third crusade, the city was occupied by the army of Salahaddin Ayyubid, who turned Aleppo into one of the main strategic points of the Muslims. The situation did not change under his successors. Under the Ayyubids, Aleppo only lost its status as a center of trade. Now the main crossing point was Antioch, located south of Palmyra. The situation did not change, either under the Mongols or under Emir Timur. Only after the death of the latter, Aleppo regained its title as the trading center of the Middle East. In 1517 Syria became part of Ottoman Empire . Aleppo, during the existence of this state, was considered the third largest city after Istanbul and Cairo. Aleppo, as part of the Ottoman Empire, experienced many ups and downs. In 1832, the governor Ottoman Sultan in Egypt, Muhammad Ali captures Syria and neighboring territories and holds them under his rule for 8 years. From this period, the role of Aleppo as a center of trade in the Middle East, as well as as a strategic point, noticeably decreased. All this is connected with the rise of Aleppo’s old rival, Damascus, as well as with the opening in 1869 of the famous Suez Canal. The situation changed after the First World War. In 1920, Syria was invaded French army. In 1922, France received a mandate to administer this territory. During the French era of control of the country, Aleppo was again revived as a center of trade. In 1946, Syria achieved complete independence from France and, for the first time in its history, entered an era of independent development that has been going on for 70 years.
Despite the paucity of information about Aleppo, some written sources have survived. 11th century Persian explorer Nasir Khosrow, for example, described the commercial life of the city, as well as the duties levied on imported foreign goods. In Aleppo in different eras Various figures of science and art lived and worked: poets Al-Mutanabbi and Abu Al-Firas, philosophers Al-Farabi and Yahya ibn Habash Suhrawardi, linguists Ibn Kalaw and Yehuda Al-Harizi. In Aleppo, the Azerbaijani poet Nasimi was executed in 1447, and his remains are buried here in the family cemetery. Subsequently, this place turns into a sanctuary and this moment is an object of pilgrimage. It is worth noting Bahaddin ibn Shaddad, a religious figure and historian, author of “ Lives of Salahaddin", as well as described in his scientific works Aleppo, where for a long time he was an adviser to Salahaddin’s son, Malik Al-Zahir. It is impossible not to mention the great geographer and traveler Yakut Ar-Rumi Al-Hamawi, the author of “Mu'jama al-buldan” (“Dictionary of Countries”), the son of the Byzantine Greeks, who wrote most of his work in Aleppo and Mosul. His work includes includes a description of the cities and countries of the Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle East and North Africa.
Aleppo It is famous not only for scientists and artists, but also for its magnificent architectural structures. The dates of construction of some of them go back to the depths of world history. First of all, we should mention the Aleppo fortress. This building is located above Aleppo, on a 50-meter hill. Many scientists believe that it was built before our era by the Hittites. It is believed that there was a temple to Hittite deities inside. Under the Greeks, the citadel also served as a religious sanctuary, and only under the Arabs did it begin to be used for defensive purposes from the middle of the 10th century, when it was built by Saif Al-Daul. Sultan Malik Al-Zahir, the son of Salahaddin, almost completely rebuilt the entire internal complex of the fortress. The old town is surrounded by a wide 22-meter moat. You can enter the historical part of Aleppo only from the south, through the bridge leading to the outer tower (Bab Antakya or Antioch Gate). Inside the complex, tourists can see magnificent structures belonging to various architectural styles. Special attention Visitors are attracted by the palace of Malik Al-Zahir (12th century) and 2 mosques located nearby. Of great interest is the Umayyad Great Mosque al-Jami al-Kabir (or Great Mosque of Aleppo), built in 715 and restored several times by different Muslim leaders of the city. Another ancient mosque in Aleppo is the Jami al-Tuta (mulberry tree mosque), built by Caliph Omar during the early Arab conquests, which has also been restored more than once. The Jami Kykan Mosque (or Crow Mosque), built in the 13th century, is of no less interest to tourists. In the outer wall of the structure there is a stone with Hittite hieroglyphs. It was thanks to this inscription that modern linguists were able to unravel the secret of the Hittite letter. In the Old Town there are quite a large number of mosques and minarets built in different historical eras. For example, the Al-Rumi mosque was built under the Mamluks in the 14th century. The Al-Bahramiya, Al-Adiliya, Al-Saffahiya mosques were built in the 15th-16th centuries during the Ottoman Empire. Along with Muslim religious institutions in Aleppo there are also a great many (43 churches) Christian buildings. The Armenian Church of the Forty Martyrs in the Christian quarter of Jade was built in the 15th century and has been restored more than once. Syrian Catholics have their own sanctuary - the Church of St. Elijah. One more Orthodox Church, which, unfortunately, is poorly preserved, is the Church of St. Simeon the Stylite. Among the equally significant architectural buildings of Aleppo, it is worth noting the Khair Bey Mausoleum, the Aleppo National Library and Museum, the Bab Al-Faraj Chapel and many other buildings. In the Old part of the city there are many medieval buildings and quarters, where, along with Muslims, local Christians also live quite peacefully. Some of the historical buildings are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Aleppo, perhaps, is the only city in the world in which buildings from various historical eras and various architectural styles. Aleppo is a mixture of eastern and western schools of art, which complement each other wonderfully. Words are not enough to describe the beauty of the city. That is why many tourists from all over the world come to Aleppo every year. The old part of Aleppo combines very well with modern multi-storey buildings new part. Thanks to its good preservation architectural structures the city even managed to get ahead of its old competitor in Damascus, the current capital of Syria.
ALEPPO, SYRIA: View of the city from the citadel during peacetime. Before civil war Aleppo was largest city Syria with a population of about 2.5 million people. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky.Aleppo today is a patchwork quilt. The city is held by government troops, ISIS, some other rebels, they constantly fire at each other... when you see this on the news, you understand that there is no stone left unturned in the city. This is Stalingrad!
Center the map
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While passing through
Dmitry Vozdvizhensky, journalist, photographer, traveler. Visiting the Site for curious travelers - my long-time colleague, journalist, photographer, experienced traveler. This article is about the Syrian city Aleppo we will continue the series of materials under the general title “Syria before the war”, we will talk about what this country was like just recently, and about what kind of Syria we have irretrievably lost.
“I remember Aleppo completely different,” says Dmitry, “neat, dressed in school uniform children going on an excursion to the museum, the citadel - a medieval fortress towering above the city, I remember smiling students dreaming about their future, young couples carefreely walking along the streets, the Great Mosque and the narrow streets of the old city, peasants who came to admire the local beauty and, of course , friendly sellers, because Aleppo has always been the kingdom of traders! For many years it was the commercial capital of Syria. You could buy everything here! One day I wandered around the local bazaar all day, looked at it all, talked to people. As a result, I made a sketch about Aleppo, which I want to present now without changes. Because changing anything here is pointless. There is nothing like this anymore! Where are Adele and Ahmed now? What happened to these people? I think we can no longer ask such questions, because there is no answer to them. The shadows of Aleppo will not give an answer. My old report suddenly became a document, evidence of a war crime committed under the guise of fighting the “regime” of Bashar al-Assad.”
ALEPPO, SYRIA: An artisan makes a copper vat. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. Anyone who found himself in Aleppo for the first time was greatly amazed by the fact that almost the entire city center is one large bazaar - souk. On one side, small shops open onto covered streets, and on the other, they abut former caravanserais. Before the war they were used as ordinary warehouses. Previously, goods were stored there only on the first floors. The second housed inns, restaurants and hotels. And in the courtyards, after long journeys through the deserts, camels rested. Today, of course, all that remains of the camels are memories.
In ancient times, in addition to traders, artisans who worked with copper flourished in Aleppo. The traditions survived until the 21st century. In the old city there were many shops and workshops in which dozens of tinsmiths worked, making metal utensils. One version of the city’s name says that it comes from the word “haleb”, which means “iron”.
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Two elderly men in a shop. Photo: Dmitry Vozdizhensky. Yes, the flavor was not the same as before, but the passion for selling and buying, as local residents admit, is in their blood. Only commerce allowed them to lead a decent life. Adele once studied in the Soviet Union and graduated from the Institute of Culture. Then he worked as a librarian in Aleppo. But, alas, librarians in Syria before the war received no more than Russian librarians. And Adel had two sons and a wife, Russian by the way. He met her in Leningrad. You cannot feed your family on a modest salary as a cultural worker. And then Adele started trading. As a result, he had two stores on the central branch. His son worked in one, and he himself worked in the other.
Adel, a Syrian shop owner said:“Tourists mainly buy these scarves, and local residents buy towels and robes. Men wear them, some for winter, some for summer. Winter ones are denser, and summer ones are lighter.”
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Children play football serenely in the schoolyard. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. Of course, we couldn’t resist the temptation to see how a real men’s Arabic headscarf is actually supposed to be worn. Adele gladly agreed to help us in this matter.
Then he called his son, who, like his father, spoke excellent Russian, and invited us to his shop to talk about life. Over a glass of strong tea, he happily talked about Syrian morals.
“The most important thing in Syria is security. You can walk, even at night, at three in the morning, no one will touch you. Tourists come from the west, from eastern countries. Everyone praises this feature of ours. The people are kind. No one bothers tourists; on the contrary, they are well received. If you need to show the way, the seller will even leave his store and go show the way. We have kind, good people.”
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Men chat in the courtyard of the Great Mosque. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. Then our conversation turned to politics and religion. Adel shared his thoughts on Islam. He believed that many were hiding behind him to achieve their personal goals. In fact, it is a pure and humane religion.
Adel, Syrian, shop owner:“Our religion is not against other religions. Here, for example, is the beginning of the Koran, there is a sura there, one might say a part. Our god says: Glory to God - God of all people. Not just Muslims. He is the God of all people. We have never known or taught our children to be racist or to be aggressive. Please, we live in friendship with Christians. We live in the same country, under the same peaceful sky. God bless. How to say, Glory to Allah."
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Women and children walk in the courtyard of the Great Mosque. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. After Syria became independent from France, a warm friendship with the Soviet Union began. Before the civil war, many people had the warmest feelings for Russia and sincerely considered our country a Great Power. At that time, Aleppo was full of signs in Russian, although trade was mainly carried out not with Moscow, but with Kiev. And not at the state level. New commercial ties firmly linked Syria with Ukraine. Due to their low cost, Syrian goods were in great demand among Ukrainian shuttle traders.
Adel and other Aleppo merchants knew how to make money practically out of thin air. Two small examples. It would seem, how much can you earn from seeds? Judging by our grandmothers selling them at markets, not very well. But it all depends on sales volumes. You can make a lot of money from seeds and nuts.
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Portrait of a man wearing an Arabic headscarf in the courtyard of the Great Mosque. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. 
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Men chat on the street. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. Ahmed Assab is the owner of a shop whose turnover reached an impressive figure: 300 kilograms per day! This is exactly how many different seeds and nuts were bought up by ordinary citizens of Aleppo every day from eight in the morning to five in the evening.
Ahmed Asab, shop owner:“I don’t know what I would do without nuts. It seems to me that nuts are the favorite food of many different people. Everyone buys - old and young, women and men. Everyone loves nuts."
If the front room of the shop, facing the street, was lined with cans and bags of goods and looked quite neat and tidy, then the back room, in which these same seeds were prepared, looked a little like a small private underworld. It was incredibly hot there. The seeds were roasted in a huge cauldron that looked like a concrete mixer. The process went on continuously. One person loaded and unloaded, another sifted, carried raw grains or nuts in large bags and carried the finished products into the alley. Here she cooled down and waited for buyers. In the small closet there was constant fumes, smoke and dust from burnt husks. Walking past such an establishment, even with your eyes closed, you could tell by the smell alone that they would be happy to sell you roasted almonds, hazelnuts, peanuts, pistachios or some other fancy nuts.
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Smiling students on a city street. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. 
ALEPPO, SYRIA: School trip to the Aleppo Citadel. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. The Syrians in Aleppo also managed to make good money from soap. Nowadays, when you won’t surprise anyone with this simple hygiene product, it’s quite difficult to come up with something new. But the Syrians didn’t even come up with this idea. Real soap should be the same as it was invented. And it was invented, according to local residents, in Aleppo.
Zahir, salesman:“This is our famous soap. It takes a very long time to do. A special blend of bay and olive oil poured in an even layer on a sealed floor. And then you need to wait several months until the moisture evaporates. Then we cut the thickened mass into pieces and that’s it, you can wash yourself.”
Syrians claim that Aleppo soap is the best in the world. It is like wine, it only gets better with age. So, if you didn’t have enough money for antique paintings or cognacs, before the war you could buy some aged Syrian soap here.
Bassel, seller:“This is a soft annual soap. Costs a dollar per kilogram. It can be cut with wire. But this is a three-year aging. And this is five years. It can only be sawed with a hacksaw. Costs five dollars per kilogram. I also have ten-year soap for special clients!”
ALEPPO, SYRIA: View of Aleppo from the Citadel. Before the start of the civil war, Aleppo's population was two and a half million people. Today, that figure has more than halved to less than one million people. The beginning of hostilities is considered to be February 10, 2012, when two car bombs were detonated. Street fighting began on July 19 and continued to escalate. The world's largest historical market, Souq al-Madinah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was destroyed at the end of September. More than 500 stores were burned...
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Unique minaret of the Great Mosque of Aleppo from the 11th century. Destroyed during the fighting. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. 
ALEPPO, SYRIA: Shadows of Aleppo. Shadows of people in an arch in the Aleppo citadel. Their fate is unknown. Photo: Dmitry Vozdvizhensky. Aleppo is considered the second city of Syria (after Damascus), but for many years it has been trying to challenge the capital for the title of the oldest city. The reason for this is ancient legends. Having such a not very fundamental justification for its ancient history, it is difficult for the residents of Aleppo to fight for the title oldest city Syria. However, they do it very successfully.
