Kamchatka. How to get there inexpensively and where to stay
We tell you when is the best time to organize an independent trip to the Kamchatka Peninsula. How to get there and what you must see.
Kamchatka is a land of contrasts. When going to the peninsula, tourists read reviews from experienced travelers, watch educational films and videos, but when they arrive at their destination they realize that they know nothing about it. In the east of Russia there are many museums, historical and architectural monuments, but the main attraction is considered natural beauty. Fire-breathing volcanoes, snow caps on the peaks, steppes with lush greenery and flowers, an abundance of mushrooms and berries - all this is to be discovered by inquisitive tourists.
NOTE:
- What to see
- What to try
When is the best time to go?
The peninsula is attractive in summer, autumn and winter. In spring it is usually wet and cloudy, and the only entertainment is visiting museums. From to , and sometimes prevail winter activities. At this time, you can ski in the mountains, through the steppes on dog sleds, and also swim in thermal springs. Clean frosty air, breathtaking landscapes, fun entertainment will not leave any traveler indifferent.
Another picture in Kamchatka opens up in the warm season. Summer here is short and cool, although sometimes the air warms up to +35° C. To catch warm weather, it is recommended to plan your trip for the second half - August. Comfortable autumn weather on the peninsula sets in from the end of August and lasts until. In summer and autumn, hiking tours are popular, including mushroom picking, berry picking, and fishing.
How to get to the peninsula
Although Kamchatka is a peninsula, the routes connecting it with mainland Russian Federation, does not exist (with the exception of winter roads). You can get there by air or sea. Of course, for tourists who plan independent travel to Kamchatka, the first option is more comfortable, since air connections allow you to get here without transfers on a direct flight. Planes arrive at the airport in Yelizovo, located 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, the capital of the peninsula. From here you can fly small aircraft to the settlements that are most popular among tourists.
Planning a trip? That way!We have prepared some useful gifts for you. They will help you save money while preparing for your trip.
Sights to see
At any time of the year you can find interesting sights in this region. But most of all nature beautiful in summer and in autumn. During this period, miracles are found at every step. The proximity of snow and wildly blooming greenery here does not surprise anyone, as does hiking on snow cover under the scorching sun.
Since Kamchatka is called the land of volcanoes, the fire-breathing mountains are considered the main attraction. There are about three hundred of them on the peninsula, 30 of them are active. To hear the Earth's breath, you just need to climb to the top of the volcano. And at the foot you can stock up on blueberries, admire the flora and take pictures against the backdrop of a luxurious snow cap.
Thermal springs are the children of volcanoes. There are about two hundred of them in Kamchatka. Some springs flow calmly, others bubble, others gush out like a fountain, releasing steam. Near them you can usually find mud pots in which vacationers take mud baths. Mud and water are healing. Don't miss the opportunity to swim in the springs.
Kamchatka is one of the most exotic and interesting regions not only in Russia, but throughout the whole world.
I don't know if there are any other edges where you can find nearby ski resorts, ocean, volcanoes, thermal springs, “ethnic” villages and an incredible selection of seafood. What is the best and most convenient way to see all the sights of this region? I'll tell you... This is Kamchatka!
The main airport of Kamchatka, which is located twenty-five kilometers northwest of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, is located in an absolutely incredibly beautiful natural environment. I don’t even know if there is another airport in the world where, when landing, the plane first maneuvers between mountain ranges and volcanoes, then makes a turn over the city, as if showing passengers where they are flying, and, finally, descends over the most picturesque bay in the world.
If you are going to Kamchatka, then here are the options for excursions in this wonderful region.
Helicopter excursions
On this excursion you will have the opportunity to see all the beauties of Kamchatka, which are usually inaccessible to the eye while on earth. Rise above majestic volcanoes, inaccessible alpine lakes, river sources, impassable mountain ranges and forests. Visit the crater of active and sleeping ones. Enjoy the spectacle of all the diversity of the animal world of Kamchatka.
You can only see it from a bird's eye view unique world Kamchatka. Visit the most inaccessible and untouched places by civilization. 
Sightseeing helicopter tours in Kamchatka last on average 5-6 hours, and allow you to explore most of the untouched territories, nature reserves and sanctuaries, volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, spawning rivers and lakes with one or two landings.
Helicopter excursions will allow you to see the Valley of Geysers, the caldera of the Uzon volcano, Nalychevo, Kuril Lake, Ksudach volcano, and much more.
Climbing volcanoes
Visit Kamchatka and not climb? Living in a region of volcanoes and not conquering at least one of them? Climbing the volcanoes of Kamchatka, one of the most interesting and popular tourist routes on the peninsula among tourists and local residents. The excursion will reveal majestic horizons, mountain ranges, endless threads of rivers and mirrors of lakes. You will feel all the greatness and power of nature as you walk along the narrow path between humanity and the universe. Standing at the top, you understand the very essence of existence. You will see the edge of the earth, where the world begins. You will be able to climb the volcanoes: Avachinsky, Gorely, Mutnovsky and to the “Veronica’s Spit” waterfall. Excursions last from 1 to 3 days. 
Jeep tours
We offer you exciting trips in off-road vehicles along light “Jeeping” routes, overcoming gravel and forest roads, combined with hiking and climbing volcanoes, as well as outright heavy off-road. You can see the beauty of Kamchatka, accessible only to hikers and those traveling on off-road vehicles, feel the atmosphere of real adventure while driving through unique places: forests, fields, swamps, crossing rivers and mountain passes. Take a tour to Kuril Lake, to the “Veronica’s Braids” waterfall, to Gorely, Mutnovsky and Vachkazhets. Tours last one day. 
Combined tours
If you like active recreation in the lap of nature, this is your option! Tours that combine active recreation on water, land and in the air are a series of impressions, bright and unforgettable, when emotions simply overwhelm. Such trips include hiking, climbing volcanoes, fishing, boat trips, diving, visiting nature reserves, hot springs, and geysers.
Horseback riding tours
You are about to experience an extraordinary feeling that is impossible to even imagine while standing with both feet on the ground. Only sitting in the saddle can you feel that feeling of flight, which from time immemorial was considered the privilege of birds. Horseback riding tours in Kamchatka are exciting and unforgettable one-day and multi-day trips to the shores of the Pacific Ocean, to the Timonovsky hot springs, across the endless and the most beautiful reserves, to the sources of rivers and blue lakes.
Boat trips
Among the variety of tours and excursions around Kamchatka offered to tourists, I would especially like to mention boat trips around Avacha Bay and cruises along the East coast of the peninsula, Komandorsky and Kuril Islands. This is not only a great opportunity to fully enjoy a sea voyage, but also to visit the unique nature reserves of the Kamchatka Territory. Watch the bird colonies. Trace the migration routes of whales. Enjoy the game of white-sided beauties Killer Whales. Race through the waves with Kamchatka dolphins. 
During excursions, on comfortable ships you can enjoy views of picturesque bays, bays, steep rocky shores and grottoes. You take part in sea fishing. Experienced divers will retrieve sea delicacies from the seabed: Kamchatka crab, sea urchin, which you can taste without leaving the deck.
The cheapest tickets from Moscow and back
| departure date | Return date | Transplants | Airline | Find a ticket |
|
| ||||
|
1 transfer |
| |||
|
2 transfers |
|
Rafting on the rivers of the Kamchatka Territory is one of the types of active water tourism. This is an ideal option for relaxing with friends, colleagues or family. No special skills or special skills required physical training, suitable even for beginners and amateurs active rest. Also, this type of recreation will help you relax, take a break from work and the bustle of the city in a short period of time. River rafting in the spring, as they say “by big water", is interesting because rivers have maximum speed currents, which is very interesting for people who want to tickle their nerves. 
In summer, river rafting has other advantages: it’s warm, you can sunbathe, and fish. At the same time, the rivers become calmer, so you can safely take your children with you. Rafting on the rivers of Kamchatka is interesting because the landscapes along the banks of our rivers are constantly changing. The beauty and grandeur of the rocky shores, forests, and turbulent tributaries are amazing. The nature of Kamchatka is also rich in local forest inhabitants: foxes, hares, bears.
There are enough comfortable hotels in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Hotels in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on their official websites offer their guests a choice of a large number of rooms at different prices and services. Additionally, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky hotels offer a large number of different special offers. 
Use all the opportunities to plan trips and business trips to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky! Hotels in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky are waiting!
What types of hotels are there in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and how do they differ? The minimum cost of living in hotels in the city is 1,200 rubles. There are several such hotels. Mini Hotels Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The minimum cost of living is from 700 rubles. These are small hotels that can simultaneously accommodate from 10 to 40 guests. Some mini-hotels have their own cafe. You can also stay at guest house or a mountain sports base. You can choose the most suitable option for yourself.
A magical land awaits you. Welcome to the experience!
Read about Kamchatka.
Kamchatka is the outskirts of Russian land. I’ll tell you why you should come here, how to visit volcanoes for free, get paid for it, not be afraid of bears and be a good guy.
If you have not heard anything about the volcano peninsula, but the word Kamchatka evokes associations with unattainable beauty wild places, then you simply haven’t seen these photos and haven’t come across practical notes from good travelers on the Internet.
In fact, everything is extremely simple (as in any business), and in the case of Kamchatka it can turn out to be pleasantly cheap and as accessible as possible.
A little bonus: tickets from Vladivostok and from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky are sold at the same price, despite the huge difference in distance, and if you buy at least two weeks in advance, you can find them for 12 thousand rubles one way. I don't think that's a lot.
What I saw while flying over Kamchatka cannot be compared with any Indonesia... whole complexes of volcanoes, colored lakes, rivers, hills, forests... I didn’t even think that this could happen, not just somewhere there, but in our native Russia! If you're wondering whether it's worth it or not, then rest assured, it's a definite YES!
Where to stay
In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and the main tourist spots there are hotels, apartments for rent and recreation centers. You can find recreation centers through a search engine or on site, and a hotel in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky can be selected and booked in advance based on reviews and ratings:
You can also stay with local residents by booking an apartment through the website. Apartments for daily rent in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky through this site cost an average of $45 per day (from $20 to $80).
How to travel around Kamchatka
Season for traveling around Kamchatka- from July to September. But also all year round here you can take commercial tours and excursions, travel to volcanoes on your own, or get a job in a travel company and earn money by visiting volcanoes - you choose which side to end up on.
The cost of tours in Kamchatka is high, and visiting all territories is free, that is, permits have not yet been introduced here.
Tours and excursions in Kamchatka
If you have money and you just came to relax, then a huge number of tourism organizations are at your service; choose any hikes and excursions upon arrival on the spot or through websites that offer tours.
Hitchhiking and buses in Kamchatka
You can also take the position of a tramp who is not interested in money and company, open maps.me maps and feel free to travel along the indicated paths, as I do, for example.
Hitchhiking in Kamchatka very pleasant, the locals are kind, relaxed, they are always interested in who you are, where you are from, how things are on the mainland..
Bus Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky - Ust-Kamchatsk costs 3,000 rubles and this is the farthest distance, therefore all other routes are within this amount.
Around Kamchatka in a rented car
In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky you can rent a car for independent travel. The cost, depending on the season and car brand, is 2-4 thousand rubles per day (on average). Gasoline in Kamchatka costs around 44 rubles/liter. You can go around a lot of steep places, with the exception of some where only a snowmobile or ZIL can go, or peaks and volcanoes where you can only climb with your feet.
Work in Kamchatka and travel for a salary
If you are ready to work, but it seems to you that you can’t do anything special, then know: you know more than enough.
Who is needed? Current needs include: a cook (preparing food for hikes, fishing, rafting), a porter (carrying backpacks for pampered tourists), an assistant guide, or a guide himself (we download routes, read literature and lead a group, if we have the appropriate experience, of course), or translator (very relevant).
Salary on average five thousand a day, hikes on average every week, the highest season is July, August, half of September. If you know languages other than English, they pay quite nicely.
About prices in Kamchatka
In general, prices in Kamchatka are not as exorbitant as is commonly thought, if you do not take into account fruits and dairy products.
Half a liter of kefir costs 70 rubles; in principle, you can live magically with this, especially if you earn money here. A loaf of bread costs 30 rubles, canned food is the same as in any town on the mainland.
Otherwise, everything here is the same as everywhere else: there are billiards, bathhouses, cafes and taxis.
Hiking and rafting costs vary, visiting the territories themselves is free, and prices for hikes and excursions are crazy, so be wiser, download maps to your phones and go on a trip yourself. You will definitely fall in love with the volcano peninsula, there is no other way here.
What to see in Kamchatka
There are only two cities in Kamchatka: Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky (PK) and Yelizovo, all junctions, road and public, are tied around them. First of all, we get into the PC and from there we move on in a rented car or hitchhiking - whoever is up to it.
Sopka Mishennaya
The first thing everyone should visit is the observation hill in the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky (Mishennaya Hill, stop “6 km”), from there there is a cool view of the city, bay, ocean and two main volcanoes on the horizon.
View of the city from Mishennaya Hill. Avachinsky and Koryaksky volcanoes are on the horizon. Volcanoes of Kamchatka
All volcanoes are located in separate groups, and some of them can be reached by road, sometimes even paved. Some territories are protected areas (the Kronotskoye Lake area, the area) and can only be reached there by helicopter and for a lot of money.
Of course, you can walk on foot in good weather in a couple of days, but if you get caught, then for lack of permission you will get into administrative trouble at best (I personally rebelled on a hike, but the snow and common sense stopped us).
You can get a job there as a volunteer - it’s no problem, just like that airstop No one has canceled it yet, it also works (if you agree with the pilot, you can fly for free).
The nearest group of volcanoes can be reached in two hours from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Just open the maps.me map, find the Avachinskaya Sopka volcano, look where the path leading from it leads, and go to that point. If you hitchhike, then from the highway you will need to travel another 16 kilometers along the trail (if there are cars, of course, they will give you a lift), and you can safely set up a tent camp in the bushes at the foot.
The path to the Avachinskaya Sopka volcano Avachinskaya Sopka
This is the easiest volcano from where you can see incredible beauty with minimal effort. In summer, this is the level of a simple walk, and we walked in bad weather in the snow and in strong winds, this was my most difficult climb (and I did a lot). The volcano is active and periodically vibrates and makes humming sounds, sometimes stones fly out of the crater, but this does not bother anyone. The rock on the volcano is red, the fumaroles are doing their thing, the steam is coming out in two streams, the top is quite hot, by descending into the crater you can hide from the wind and drink tea and chocolate!
Koryak hill
Opposite Avachinsky there is the Koryakskaya Sopka volcano (3456 meters). All the locals say that only equipped professional climbers go to it and the routes to it are not registered at the base. We found route 1 B on the Internet and conquered it the day after Avachinsky. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, the sun was shining and there was absolutely no wind.
Descent from Koryaksky volcano The most beautiful landscapes this group can be observed from the Kozelsky volcano; the path to it leads through Avachinsky.
Group of Gorely and Mutnovsky volcanoes
From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky you can take a bus to the village of Termalny (95 rubles) and turn onto the Mutnovskaya GeoPP, this is the road to another group of volcanoes, which is famous for its cosmic landscapes.
I went to Gorely volcano in the evening and spent the night with a tent in the forest, not reaching 35 kilometers. I pitched my tent at the campsite and decided that I didn’t want to meet bears. Foxes came at night, but before I realized it, I remembered everything colorful that had happened in my life, and exhaled, realizing that they were not bears.
A few words about bears in Kamchatka
The kindest and shyest (or my karma is good).
These are not polar bears, they are not at all interested in destroying everything in their path, and people are not a delicacy for them. Especially in September, when the bear is already well-fed and picking berries.
The only thing you should beware of is the bear cubs, because somewhere next to them there is definitely a big mother who will definitely suspect you as a threat to her babies.
Undoubtedly, every year about a dozen people die from bears, and the remaining five thousand who were lucky enough to see them up close remained alive and happy, I think this is a good statistic. It turns out to be much more logical to be afraid car accidents, than bears, they are much more common. And of course, removing trash from nature, because feeding a bear is always not good.
Erupting volcanoes of Kamchatka
The craziest adventure was my trip to the village of Klyuchi, where the Klyuchevskaya Sopka volcano is now erupting. Before that, I thought that an eruption was some kind of process of ejecting lava, like a lightning-fast phenomenon... Here lava has been flowing along the slopes since April, and gathers huge crowds of tourists from all over the world.
You can’t see her during the day, she’s black and inconspicuous, but at night... This is the most unreal thing I’ve ever seen! Lava splashes out in a hundred-meter fountain and scatters along the slope of a tall mountain.
It seems that these are just coals flying at the speed of a feather, but you realize that these are huge blocks, and they fly very quickly, it’s just a huge height, what a force it is that pushes them out of there!! An incredibly sticky and cosmic spectacle, an indescribable delight.
They even try to climb it, but mostly everyone ends up with ash and the people descend. One got hit on the helmet with a piece of hot stone, one got lost and wandered along the bed of a dry river for four days, going down...
The other day another volcano from that group began to erupt. It simply threw kilometers of ash into the air and a layer of dirt several centimeters fell on the cars, and continued to fall for some time; I won’t say that it was a harmless thing. In general, you won't get bored here.
Other places
I almost forgot, the city of Ust-Kamchatsk! Rows of Khrushchev-era apartment buildings, dilapidated wooden houses, landscapes of the consequences of the apocalypse, garbage dumps with rotting fish and bears, all this on the ocean shore with a cemetery of sunken ships and ultra-modern wind turbines.
However, getting here is already a whole adventure, hitchhiking is good, but the spaces between cars are filled with a specific romance... There is a forest in the area, there are a lot of bears, there are few cars, we collect chaga, drink teas, pick mushrooms, cook buckwheat, sleep on the edge of the forest, eat berries. .
I suggest doing it yourself trip to Kamchatka on a visit to the volcanoes in Kronotsky biosphere reserve. We will see the Valley of Geysers, the caldera of the Uzon volcano, and the Valley of Death. Here are approximate prices and travel plans.
Conditions and prices of travel to Kamchatka
- TIME DIFFERENCE +8 hours.
- WHEN is better (my opinion)
- HOW TO GET THERE - From Moscow itself directly to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky: by plane (9 hours) - from 21,000 RUR. Tour along the described route - from 2500-3000.
- TRANSPORTATION - Helicopter rental - from 32,000 RUR/hour.
- WEATHER - The climate is quite harsh and harsh. average temperature in winter it’s about -16... -21°С. It snows a lot during the winter. Along the coast the climate is usually milder than in the center of the peninsula.
- DURATION – 10 days
- ACCOMMODATION - price of a room in hotels in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky - 3900—5500 RUR/cyr. Accommodation in a camp site - from 2700 RUR/day.
Kamchatka - Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve
Kamchatka is a land of geysers and volcanoes. Surely, there is not a person in our country who has not expected to see live the most volcanically active peninsula at least once in his life. Kamchatka Territory is a natural nursery of volcanoes. There are young, ancient and destroyed volcanoes here. In this region, various processes associated with volcanic activity are studied, such as numerous mud volcanoes, gas-emitting fumaroles and, of course, billowing columns of hot water - geysers.
One of the best and most beautiful areas in Kamchatsk is the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve. It is located on east coast, here on an area of more than a million hectares you can find all the landscapes of the Kamchatka Territory - from tundra coastal lowlands to volcanic highlands. The Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve has objects that make it truly unique: a beautiful ridge of sixteen volcanoes, the famous Valley of Geysers, the beautiful and large Kronotsky Lake (the second largest in Kamchatka), a caldera bubbling with acid and gas. Uzon and glaciers stretching for many kilometers.
Uzon Volcano Caldera
Caldera c. Uzon is a volcanic bowl 10-12 km in diameter and the height of the sides is 210-850 m. Inside the caldera there are thousands of thermal springs, many mud caverns and acid lakes. The caldera was formed more than 40 thousand years ago, after the complete destruction of the Uzon volcano, but volcanic activity continues here to this day. Active gas emission processes have created places such as Death Valley, Lake Bannoye with a reservoir of molten sulfur, and yellow fumarole fields. 65 hydrothermal minerals were found in the volcano's caldera. One of them is uzonite, which is found nowhere else in the world.
Valley of Geysers of Kamchatka
- an amazing corner of our planet. This place is full of swirling steam and rain of colorful spray all year round. In a small area of 2 square kilometers. There are more than twenty large geysers capable of raising tons of hot water to a height of several tens of meters. In addition to geysers, the valley has many pulsating thermal springs, fumaroles, and cascades of small waterfalls. The surface of the valley is covered with bacteria and rainbow thermophilic algae that live wherever there is even a small trickle of hot water. All this is a phenomenon on a global scale.
Death Valley
Death Valley - a natural phenomenon, which is observed only in a few corners of the planet near volcanoes. In such places there is usually no vegetation and dead animals are found. For humans, an explosive cocktail of gases also poses a danger. It causes a strong headache, weakness, dizziness, and if you spend a lot of time in the valley, it can end tragically. But as soon as you go out into an open, well-ventilated area, all the symptoms quickly pass and the body recovers. Caution should be exercised when visiting Death Valley. The composition of toxic gases in the Kamchatka Death Valley is considered the most caustic and dangerous compared to gases in other similar places.
Travel to Kamchatka volcanoes
Days 1-2
In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky we check into one of the hotels. We will walk around the city, visit the Museum and the Museum of Modern Volcanism. We bathe in thermal springs, stocking up on health. Let's go to local restaurants and try fish dishes.
Day 3-4
We fly by helicopter to the Valley of Geysers. On the road we look at the current one. Karymsky, an acid lake in the very crater of the Maly Semyachik volcano. We will explore the unique area and watch the hot water fountains. We go to the “Glukhaya” camp site, where we occupy one of the houses.
Day 5-6
After breakfast, walk along the caldera of the long-awaited Uzon volcano to Lake Dalneye.
We look at the volcanic cones on the horizon and admire the beauty of this region. We go to the lake located in the crater of a dormant volcano. We arrange a short break on the shore of the lake. Continue along the stream. Spend the night in a tent on the bank of a stream a few kilometers from the lake.
Days 7-8
After camp breakfast we continue our journey. We examine manifestations of early volcanism, study miniature mud volcanoes, mud pots and volcanic sediments. We are moving to the Valley of Death. Having visited its deserted area, we carefully explore this dangerous area. We set up our camp a few kilometers from the valley, rest while we spend the night in tents.
Day 9-10
In the morning we pack up our belongings and tent and head straight along the Geysernaya River to the camp site, located not far from the already seen Valley of Geysers. We take a walk and visit the valley again. In the evening we go to take a steam bath. The main part of the journey is over. In the morning we make the final flight by helicopter to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. You can go to local market and buy a few souvenirs as a souvenir.
Our exciting journey to Kamchatka has ended. I hope the travel plan will help you find your way around, and the prices listed here (probably they have already changed) will help you decide on your budget. Have a good travel!
And then share your impressions.
There are places in the world where you envy yourself when you are there. One of these places is Kamchatka, amazing land volcanoes! It always seemed to me something very distant, difficult and expensive, so I once again went to conquer new continents, leaving the far eastern corner of my country for some time later.
Then it came unexpectedly. At the beginning of April, Aeroflot and Transaero simultaneously had summer tickets from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky and back for 18,000 rubles, which was unprecedented generosity considering the flight range, and we didn’t think twice. Within a day, a group of people had gathered, we bought tickets and began planning the trip. Actually, at that moment, all the planning came down to the fact that I found an interesting route called the Pacific Ring from Kamchatka travel agencies, read a couple of reports from people who had walked it on their own, believed in our strength and took this route as a basis. I didn’t know then that the weather and nature would make significant adjustments to our plan, and half of our plans would not come true. But this did not make the trip any less interesting and eventful.
When to go to Kamchatka? Weather
Buying tickets at the beginning of April, we, of course, could not imagine that a very snowy winter would add a very late spring, which, it seems, came to Kamchatka along with our arrival on July 24. On the first day on the streets of the City we were met by blooming lilac. And we spent the next three days among two-meter snowdrifts of dense July snow, of which there was so much around that it seemed as if we were in the Kingdom of White with rare islands of thawed patches covered with bright spring flowers.
The snow was wet, and along with it, the feet in “waterproof” boots were constantly wet. It is no coincidence that local guides only wear rubber boots! Periodically squeezing water out of socks became a common practice, but thanks to the sunny weather and +20 degrees of heat, no one ended up getting sick.
Local residents told us that it rained continuously throughout June, the weather in July was also not pleasant, and the only six sunny days in July fell just at the beginning of our trip to Kamchatka.
One day I talked to a girl from Moscow, who said that she was in Kamchatka at the same time three years ago, and then the nature resembled the sun-scorched steppes of the Crimea, and it was so hot that the group did some transitions and ascents in swimsuits/ swimming trunks So it doesn't happen year after year. But we saw an incredible combination of snow, bright greenery and amazing Kamchatka flowers - contrasts were everywhere!
Unfortunately, a week after our arrival the weather deteriorated, it rained continuously for two days, and the remaining three days were cloudy. So we never saw any volcanoes from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, and the Pacific coast was cloudy and drizzly.
Next time, I’ll probably try to come to Kamchatka at the end of August, and again sometime in mid-late September, in order to catch both the berries and the colors of autumn, so as not to walk in the snow and easily wade through the shallow waters. mountain rivers, and also try to see how the fish goes to spawn. And the bears will already be full))
Features of Kamchatka
The first thing that catches your eye upon arrival is the right-hand drive cars. There are probably more than 90 percent of them in Kamchatka. At the entrance/exit of the airport around the parking ticket terminal there are even two lanes - for left-hand drive cars and for right-hand drive cars. The few left-hand drive cars are either rare domestic ones or completely new cars from the showroom. Among the cars, Japanese ones predominate. And among the left-hand drive buses there are Korean ones.
There are few roads in Kamchatka, and even fewer asphalt roads, so the vast majority of cars are SUVs. Delica, mounted on tall and wide wheels, is very popular - on such units people manage to drive almost to the very top of the Gorely volcano, as much as 1500 meters.
Organized tourists are transported on shift vehicles made on the basis of Kamaz, GAZ and ZIL.
There are only one or two cities in Kamchatka. But for local residents of Kamchatka, only Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky deserves the name City. That’s what they usually say: “I’m going to the City, I can give you a ride to the City.”
The self-name of the local residents is Kamchadal.
Although Kamchatka is not an island, but a peninsula, the rest of Russia is called the “mainland”, and visiting Russians are called “from the mainland”. Roads connecting Kamchatka with “mainland” Russia through Chukotka or Magadan region, no (except for winter roads), and get to Big Earth only possible by plane or sea.
If you want to pass as one of your own, put the emphasis on the first syllable in the names of the settlements Elizovo, Pinachevo and Nalychevo))
Prices in Kamchatka for food, transport and housing
We knew that everything in Kamchatka is very expensive, so we brought all the food with us for an autonomous trip for 10 days from Moscow.
IN last days in Kamchatka we went on an “excursion” to the largest supermarket on the peninsula called Shamsa, and were horrified by the local prices. A kilogram of apples at the beginning of August cost 200 rubles, a kilogram of bananas 180 rubles. There's a problem with dairy products! It is difficult for a resident of “mainland” Russia, accustomed to the variety of milk and kefir, to look without tears at a small shelf in a huge supermarket, where a couple of dozen packages of gourmet kefir are laid out in 3 piles. 73 rubles per 400 grams. That's 182 rubles for the usual liter/kilo of kefir!!!
Since we had plenty of food with us, we only bought caviar on the spot (1,600 rubles per kilo of chum salmon caviar, 1,800 rubles per kilo of sockeye salmon or pink salmon caviar, 2,500 rubles per kilo of Chinook salmon caviar), cold-smoked fish (700 rubles per kilo of sockeye salmon or chinook salmon), potatoes (30 rubles/kilo), bread and expensive “delicacy” butter. We were pleased with the prices for fresh fish - from 80 rubles per kilogram of salmon fish.
The prices in the restaurants turned out to be surprisingly no higher than in Moscow, while the portions were large and the food was very, very tasty. I really liked the Boulevard restaurant in mall Shamsa on Pobeda Avenue - I have never eaten such delicious sushi and miso soups in Moscow! We had a good lunch at the Ugli restaurant on KP (that’s what everyone calls Komsomolskaya Square): the moose cutlet with honeysuckle, as well as the fried fern, were incomparable!
Intercity public transport turned out to be very expensive! The bus from Yelizovo to Termalny for 75 rubles did not really surprise us, but the bus from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to Malka for 525 rubles for 130 kilometers made us think... However, on the first day we found out for ourselves that in Kamchatka there is excellent hitchhiking on the roads of any quality, and communication with local residents greatly enriches the Kamchatka experience, so the idea of traveling by bus was abandoned for a combination of reasons. Thanks to hitchhiking, we met very interesting people, as with simple Kamchadals who are afraid of bears and do not go beyond their borders settlement or vehicle, and with lovers of active outdoor recreation, racing around the peninsula on snowmobiles, motorcycles and even trikes. And, of course, each of them had their own bear story!
We had accommodation in Kamchatka with us, and we spent the first 9 nights comfortably in our tents.
Hotel prices in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky are inhumane, but it is very easy to rent a daily apartment - we have our studio apartment with a fresh renovation, modern interior, ideal cleanliness and a set of absolutely everything you might need for a normal life, at a price of 1800 rubles per day ( easily and comfortably accommodates four) we were very pleased!
Independent travel around Kamchatka
Traveling around Kamchatka on your own with some preparation at home turned out to be incredibly easy. Reports and GPS tracks of independent tourists are posted on the Internet, which are good to have for reference on the ground. Once again, the free offline MapsWithMe map turned out to be very useful, on which most of the trails, hot springs, and waterfalls were marked. Near Gorely, Mutnovsky, at the Dachny and Nizhne-Vilyuchinsky springs, we set up tents in places clearly intended for these purposes - somewhere nearby there were groups of organized tourists, in other places we were alone, but there were fireplaces and even benches.
Wherever there is something going on, you can hitch a ride, and even shift workers with organized tourists give rides.
In terms of information, the Modern Guide to Kamchatka, published by the local visitor center, turned out to be valuable - you can ask for this book at the visitor center in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky on Lenin Street and get it for free! It’s a pity that I only acquired this book at the end of my trip, but it will clearly prove extremely useful in preparing for the next one.
What to take with you on a hike in Kamchatka?
In summer in Kamchatka, anything can come in handy - from a light down jacket to a swimsuit! So you need to take clothes for any weather: a swimsuit/swimming trunks for hot springs, thermal underwear (at least a top) for comfortable transitions to weather conditions, changing from cold to warm, synthetic sweaters with long sleeves so as not to get burned under the scorching sun, a raincoat and trousers from the rain, lightweight warming fleeces, a windbreaker.
A rain cover for a backpack or a waterproof bag inside a backpack - it will be very useful during fords, so as not to be afraid of getting things inside the backpack wet.
Large sunglasses are essential as long treks in the snow under the scorching sun can turn any beautiful day into hell. Sunscreen and lip balm with a high sun protection factor, as you get sunburned very easily in the mountains. Panama.
Trekking poles make the ascents and descents very easy, as well as fording rivers.
In addition to comfortable, worn-in shoes (preferably waterproof, but this will not help if you constantly walk in wet snow), sandals for wading rivers will not hurt.
We took down sleeping bags, so we slept softly and warmly everywhere. The guys came with thermal rests, I got by with foam just fine.
A mosquito net was very important - there were a lot of mosquitoes almost everywhere!
Flashlight. Seat.
Bear protection! You can use horns (we bought them at Sportmaster), fan pipes (they are inconvenient because you have to blow them, which is difficult during long marches, it is better to buy horns in the shape of a pear, which you can easily crush in your hand), whistles. On site in Yelizovo you need to buy flares - a pulled pin produces a green or red flame 20 cm long for 30 seconds, which will help when meeting a bear face to face.
I read somewhere that vinegar helps against animals, including bears, so we took 0.3 liters with us and sprinkled the area around the tent in particularly bear-prone areas.
Fleece gloves and a hat were not useful - there was no cold anywhere, although near Gorely and Mutnovsky immediately after sunset it became noticeably colder, and the hood of a windbreaker was in demand.
Travel layout. Nutrition
We brought all the food with us to Kamchatka from Moscow.
At first there was an idea to buy freeze-dried ready meals, but we were not impressed by the tasting - one dish was too salty, the second smelled like chicken droppings. So we took cereals (buckwheat, rice, lentils, millet, oatmeal), pasta, dry mashed potatoes, biscuits, sausage, lard, dried pork and chicken (freeze-dried meat) in the oven, took dry Podtravka soups, to which we added dried carrots and onions from Auchan. For sweets and snacks, we had hazelnuts, raisins, dried apricots, halva, sherbet, kozinaki and Alenka chocolate. Plus green and black tea, sugar. We ate deliciously, no one went hungry, and in the end I didn’t lose a single kilo, although the increased nutrition in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky during the last three days of the trip may have had an effect.
Most of the grocery layout was packed in plastic bottles from milk, water Shishkin Les and into liter paper bags for milk and kefir.
The layout was based on 700 grams of dry product per person per day. As a result, at the start everyone had 8 kg. food. Seryoga and I’s backpacks in Sheremetyevo weighed 20 kilos each, our two traveling companions weighed 25 kilos each, but it all also depends on how much extra unnecessary crap someone took as personal belongings))
Since immediately after arrival we wanted to go to the Gorely volcano, and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky was slightly out of the way, I was tormented by the question of whether it was possible to buy gas and flares in Yelizovo. I have not found the answer to this simple question on the Internet. Elizovo, where the airport is located, seemed like a village to me, but it turned out that it is one of three full-fledged and self-sufficient cities in Kamchatka, where there is absolutely everything. Right next to the bus station there are many tourist, hunting and fishing shops where you can buy gas and flares. Plus, there is a market with red caviar and fish nearby)) So, going to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to purchase what you need to buy in Kamchatka, since you can’t bring it from Moscow, is completely unnecessary - you can buy everything you need in Yelizovo and immediately move out at least near Gorely, or near Avachinsky, or even to the north, which is much more convenient to do from Yelizovo!
