What criteria are used to choose a camera? Ease of use
A novice photographer wants to choose the right equipment so that it lasts for a long time. It is also important that the quality of the photographs is good. Anyone whose budget is limited asks the following question: “Where can I buy a good inexpensive camera?” There are actually a lot of criteria, you need to decide on each one.
So that you don’t have to rack your brains for a long time about where to get an inexpensive and good digital camera, or how to choose it, it is recommended to write down all your wishes for your future camera on a piece of paper:
- Do you need to take only high-quality photos or are just clear ones enough?
- What is the budget, will it be possible to purchase additional items if necessary?
- Do you have a desire to further develop as a professional photographer?
- Under what conditions and what are you supposed to photograph?
Of course, each person may have their own questions, but the principle is the same. To buy an inexpensive and good digital camera, you need to understand one truth: a high-quality product will not be sold at too low a price, and a very expensive device does not guarantee perfect job. It’s better to pay a couple thousand rubles more and buy for real good technique rather than take it cheaper and then suffer.
Types of digital cameras
Modern electronics are such that you can choose endlessly. Sometimes a phenomenon occurs: a point-and-shoot camera or smartphone camera takes photographs much better than a semi-professional DSLR. An inexpensive, good quality camera can be of any type, you just have to choose. The following are the types of photographic equipment:
- digital camera- a regular point-and-shoot camera with a fixed lens;
- amateur SLR camera- the lenses are removable, there are more functions for shooting, and the quality is higher;
- semi-professional camera- removable lenses, many different functions, settings, capabilities;
- camera in smartphone- built-in digital camera in a mobile device.
If a future photographer is poorly versed in digital technology, does not like to delve into the settings, and is intimidated by the large number of buttons and dimensions, then it is better to refrain from buying a SLR camera. A regular digital camera has a minimum of buttons and wheels, and its dimensions are not too different from those of smartphones.
Soap cameras with high-quality shooting
In the last century, optical cameras that shot film produced cloudy and unclear images. Modern technologies have long solved the problem of unsuccessful photography. Even 20 years ago, photographers with professional film equipment could not imagine that simple cameras would one day appear on sale that would shoot several times better. “Soap dishes” - they will be discussed in this section.
Currently, many companies make photographic equipment, but not all can be the best. Below is a digital camera with high ratings from happy owners.
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W800
This is a good inexpensive camera. User reviews are encouraging. Those who do not have extra funds can afford to buy it. It fits compactly in your hand, is lightweight, and is quite easy to use. 5x zoom, video recording, excellent flash. People write that good photos are taken in the dark. Naturally, good pictures are also taken during the day: rich colors, clear, excellent sharpness, not blurry.
The LCD display of the camera is 2.7 inches. There is a macro mode. The strap is included. It is recommended to purchase an additional memory card. A word of warning for those who plan to take a large amount of photos at once: the battery capacity is limited to 200 frames, so it is better to carry a charger with you.
Amateur "DSLR"
It means a camera with a mirror element, which has its advantages over optics. The matrix of a DSLR is larger, the photographs are clearer, all the important elements of shooting are visible, and the background, as a rule, beautifully blurred. Thanks to this camera you can develop Creative skills. Beginners often ask: “Recommend an inexpensive and good DSLR camera.” Of course, you can recommend one, but there is a significant nuance: everyone has different preferences. Some people like one camera and don't like the other, while others have the opposite opinion. Below are two amateur “DSLRs” from the most popular brands.
Canon EOS 1100D
When choosing a camera in online stores you need to remember: kit means it is sold with a lens. As a rule, the manufacturer includes an 18-55 mm lens with the “carcass”. If such an element is not needed, the photographer plans to use special lenses, then you need to take a camera with the inscription body. This is a good inexpensive camera with many positive qualities. It is shown in the figure below with a “whale” lens.
What's special about it? 12.6 MP matrix, ability to shoot video in high resolution. The photos come out great. Compared to a "soap box" this is a serious technique. You can attach any Canon lenses to this camera.
Nikon D3100
This camera is no worse than the Canon EOS 1100D. Matrix - 14.8 MP. There is also a video mode, but no more than 10 minutes. Unlike the previous camera, the Nikon D3100 has only one mount, which means it can be replaced with lenses with only one type of safety lock.
Overall, both cameras are quite good to use. For the average hobbyist this is a valuable item. Photos can be taken in almost any weather conditions, both indoors and outdoors. In the photo you can see clear contours and soft colors. If the owner wishes, the camera turns into a working tool for various shooting genres.
What is the difference between a point-and-shoot camera and an amateur DSLR? What should you choose?
Based on its size alone, we can say that a DSLR camera has more advantages over a simple digital camera. The number of buttons and wheels in a DSLR camera suggests that there are many functions. There are few shooting modes in a regular pocket camera.
You should not try to shoot scenes that are difficult for the camera with a point-and-shoot camera, for example, in the twilight without a flash, in bright sunshine, or small objects that are close up. There is also a lot of chromatic aberration, especially in winter and cloudy weather. For those who don’t know, chromatic aberration is blue and purple outlines with a sharp color transition (for example, white and brown, black).
Reflex camera inexpensive and good has fewer disadvantages, but a lot depends on the lenses.
SLR digital cameras
As mentioned above, point-and-shoot cameras have many disadvantages compared to SLR cameras, but they are superior in price. When it comes to DSLR cameras, there are actually three types:
- amateur;
- semi-professional;
- professional.
What is their difference? Let's start with amateur and semi-professional cameras. For those who don’t know what a crop factor is, let us explain in simple words: the image will not be original, but enlarged n times. For example, the camera has a crop factor of 1.6. Let's say the lens has a focal length of 100 mm, but with a “cropped” matrix it will be equal to 160 mm. Unfortunately, all amateur and semi-professional DSLRs have a crop factor. But this option does not spoil the shooting at all; a digital camera is inexpensive and you can always choose a good one.
The maximum number of shots at one time (Sports mode) depends on the camera type. The higher the class of the device, the larger the series of images.
Expensive but high quality "pros"
HDR is an acronym that doesn't mean anything to unknowing people. What is this? This shooting mode will allow you to take very high-quality pictures, even if there is poor or incorrect lighting. As can be seen in many unusual and colorful photographs (starry sky, twilight in the studio, night parks and cities), everything turns out spectacularly. Even a semi-professional camera with an expensive lens will not be able to repeat this trick, since there is no HDR. Therefore, high-end cameras cost more than 100 thousand rubles and are not included in the “good inexpensive camera” category. Most often, such devices are used by real professionals: photo studios, wedding agencies, printing houses, that is, expensive cameras are relevant wherever the highest quality photography is needed.
Which lenses to choose?
Perhaps this is the most sensitive topic, because a lot depends on the lenses. If you decide to buy a DSLR camera with the prospect of changing optics, this section will be useful. Undoubtedly, the question here will not be so much about how to choose an inexpensive good camera, how much about optics. I also want to choose a good one. First of all, let's introduce the beautiful Canon 50 mm f/1.8II lens.
This is one of the great lenses with the lowest price. His task is portrait, still life. The photo produces soft and rich colors, beautiful blur and a perfect transition from the subject to the background. You might even think that the photo was taken with an expensive lens.
Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR II DX - A universal lens for owners of a camera from the same company. In stores it is quite inexpensive, and the quality is excellent. There is also a high-quality and cheap telephoto Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX VR IF. And for cameras, Canon can offer excellent optics under the name Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM.
All the lenses listed above cost no more than 6-9 thousand rubles, depending on the store. So the role is played not only by the digital camera itself, which is inexpensive and good.
Today, cameras are presented on the market in a wide range. But nevertheless, most people are not aware of the criteria by which such equipment should be selected. Many people have heard the terms “matrix” and “megapixels” in passing, but what they are talking about is unclear.
Sellers skillfully take advantage of the inexperience of buyers in matters of choice and impose cameras at incredibly high prices with many unnecessary functions on ordinary photography enthusiasts. How to avoid falling for the tricks of trade workers? How to choose a good quality camera?
First of all, you should proceed from your financial capabilities and the level at which you are proficient in photography. Accordingly, the higher the price of a particular model, the greater functional potential it has. But for beginners it is better to buy a simpler device.
It’s not a fact that the passion for photography will not burn out in a month or two. Therefore, the most important question before purchasing should be: why do you need a camera? For what purpose? Only after receiving objective answers can you move on to finding an answer to the main question of how to choose a camera.
A camera for an amateur will satisfy his needs with simple and, at first glance, high-quality photographs. The main thing is that they turn out clear. A professional photographer will prefer a model with the latest bells and whistles that can improve and systematize image quality.
Most cameras produced today are digital. They can be separated into two groups.
- Automatic with a minimum number of different settings.
- Mirror, the use of which requires mastery of all the subtleties of the process.
If you do not have photographic skills, you should give preference to the most automated camera. A camera with variable optics can be mastered by a professional.
But which device is better to choose? Compact digital camera or DSLR? Semi-professional or for real pros? A brief overview of camera characteristics will help you make the right choice.
The main difference between SLR cameras and other devices is the ability to use removable lenses. Thus, the camera includes two parts - the frame (or “body”) and mobile optics. Such a device provides very high image quality, even if visibility conditions leave much to be desired.
But how to choose the right DSLR camera? Needs to be considered several important criteria.
- It is important to focus on the year of manufacture of the model. The latest cameras are more advanced, but they become obsolete within a couple of months after they first hit the market. This does not apply to rarities that have no age limits. It is better to give preference to new digital technologies. It will be easier with them in terms of repairs and purchasing accessories.
- Megapixels, namely their number. Although professionals call this indicator insignificant, in large-format printing this criterion plays a paramount role.
- Weight and size are not important for a novice photographer or for rare shoots. However, if a person is used to not letting go of the device throughout the day, it is better to choose a more compact camera.
- Availability of video recording. Some people buy a DSLR to shoot video. But not all devices come with a microphone. Therefore, when buying a camera, you need to ask the seller about the availability of a recording device.
- Zoom. If you have a regular compact ultrazoom, working with a DSLR camera can cause certain difficulties, since the standard zoom in it is three times.
- What kind of frame: full or cropped. The former have a price several times higher. Therefore, if you have extra money, the choice should be made in their favor. If there is no finance, then the second option will also work.
- An equally important criterion for choosing a SLR camera should be the company that produced it. The top rated companies are Nikon, Canon and Sony. It is their models that should be given preference. But if your budget is limited, you can pay attention to other lesser-known manufacturers. Pentax, Olympus and Samsung have performed well. Canon is considered the main leader.
Having selected a model in accordance with the above criteria, it would be a good idea to try it out. You can take a few pictures in the store itself before purchasing. Sometimes the quality of a super-sophisticated DSLR is worse than that of a device that is a standard inexpensive point-and-shoot camera.
After receiving the answer to the question of how to choose a SLR camera, the next step will be purchasing a lens for it.
The most difficult question for a novice photographer is how to choose a lens for a camera. It is clear that a modern lens that will meet all parameters has not yet been invented. However, there is the most balanced model called Kit.
The result is a good device that meets the following parameters:
- good lens;
- cheap;
- universal.
In the future, you can purchase more advanced camera lenses. But for a beginner, Kit will be just right.
In addition to the lens, the flash plays an important role in a DSLR camera. How to choose a flash for shooting? Which one should you prefer? Here you need to act consistently, making a selection according to several criteria.
- Power, measured by the distance within which a high-quality image can be obtained.
- Automatic zoom. It will allow you to change the distance to the subject while maintaining light and focus.
- Flash with maximum speed recharging the battery is suitable for those who are engaged in reportage photography.
- For different lighting effects, choose a flash with a rotating head.
- If your budget is limited, then it is better to buy a semi-professional flash than a low-quality cheap analogue.
Modern cameras are almost all digital. They differ in the range of functions and quality of parts. Such diversity sometimes confuses the buyer, especially if he is not exactly a pro in this industry. How to choose a digital camera so that it is also professional?
It is believed that the best brand on the market producing cameras for professionals is Canon. A Canon camera, whether professional or semi-professional, will be equipped with accessories from the same brand.
Such devices are quite expensive, so when purchasing, you should give preference to high-quality equipment with good optics and lenses.
How to choose a memory card for a camera?
Before you buy a memory card, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the camera and find out what type of memory is suitable for it. Information can also be found on the Internet. In addition to information about memory, you need to clarify information about the size of the flash card that your tool will “pull”.
If the question of which flash drive manufacturer to prefer is not relevant to you, then it is better not to contact companies about which you have not heard anything. Leaders in the production of memory cards are Transcend, SanDisk, Kingston.
If you are offered a free memory card when purchasing a camera, then know that this is a marketing ploy by the seller. It’s good if the card simply turns out to be defective and does not harm the device. Remember that a high-quality memory card cannot be cheap.
If you need a large amount of memory, then do not put it in one flash drive. Buy two cards with equal volume. You will protect yourself if one carrier suddenly stops working.
Before paying money to the store's cash register, check the card for serviceability. If everything works, then you can safely make a purchase.
How to choose a tripod for a camera?
Most camera owners dream of purchasing a tripod to go along with it, the function of which is to hold the camera in a stationary position. But how to choose a compact and at the same time reliable tripod? To do this you need to know main characteristics of the device.
- Working height– is defined as the distance from the surface of the platform with which the tripod is in contact to the camera. The height can be minimum and maximum. It's better if maximum height will be greater than the height of the photographer.
- Tripod size and weight. These indicators must be such that when shooting, the weight of the camera does not affect the support and does not break it. However, you should give preference to compact tripod models, since they are more convenient to carry in your hands.
- Accessories. Many tripods come with a full set of components. But professionals prefer to buy various elements separately. This is a more expensive purchase option, but also of higher quality.
- Case– useful on a long journey or on a trip. It will protect your tripod from bad weather.
TOP 5 best DSLR cameras
The number of lovers of high-quality photographs and digital cameras is constantly growing. However, it is not always easy to choose the optimal model, especially if a person is not well versed in this. We offer a brief overview of the 5 best DSLR cameras for every taste and budget.
The best model for a beginning photographer who has a limited budget, but wants to purchase a compact SLR camera with maximum number functions.
Pros:
- Not high price the device itself;
- low cost of lenses for the device;
- video shooting with Full HD resolution;
- compactness;
- magnificent flash;
- long battery life (up to 700 photos);
- 24.7 MP matrix (APS-C).
Minuses:
- The LCD screen is built into the body;
- Possible strong digital noise;
- too few shooting modes.
average cost– 33,600 rubles.
This model is for experienced amateur photographers who place fairly high demands on the camera. Reviews about the camera are generally positive; buyers are only confused by the high cost of the device. But more about everything.
Pros:
- high image quality;
- good flash;
- good rate of fire (6 frames per second);
- clear LCD screen;
- high-quality assembly;
- convenient viewfinder;
- precise autofocus;
- long battery life.
Minuses:
- no wireless modules;
- overcharge;
- built-in LCD screen.
average cost– 56,000 rubles.
A very good, but also quite expensive model, produced by a Japanese company. Suitable for advanced users who want to get professional photos without spending extra effort.
Pros:
- high-quality and clear pictures;
- 3 user modes;
- good rate of fire (12 shots per second);
- good image stabilizer;
- electronic viewfinder;
- wi-fi available;
- tracking focus;
- ability to select focus mode;
- rotating LCD screen.
Minuses:
- high cost;
- short battery life;
- The red eye removal function works slowly.
average cost– 68,300 rubles.
The ideal sharpness and clarity of the resulting images is, perhaps, the main review of this magnificent camera. However, the advantages of the device are not limited to this. There is also a fly in the ointment in this “celebration of life” - the high price of the device itself and the lenses for it.
Pros:
- amazing sharpness;
- a high resolution photographs;
- hybrid autofocus;
- 37 megapixels under the body;
- there is a second display;
- weatherproof housing;
- long battery life (up to 1200 shots);
- excellent working flash.
Minuses:
- insufficient rate of fire (only 5 photos per second);
- LCD screen built into the body;
- high cost of the device and lenses for it.
average cost– 200,000 rubles.
One of the best professional cameras currently available. It has excellent characteristics, but at the same time it is characterized by high cost and high weight. Judging by the reviews, buyers are ready to turn a blind eye to such shortcomings.
Pros:
- no digital noise;
- very good and accurate autofocus performance;
- presence of a second screen;
- high rate of fire (14 frames per second);
- long battery life (1200 shots);
- durable metal case;
- excellent video quality;
- built-in GPS receiver.
Minuses:
- low matrix resolution;
- high cost;
- heavy model;
- no wifi.
average cost– 378,000 rubles.
There are quite a lot of criteria by which you need to choose cameras. A person ignorant in this area may become confused. That is why it is better for a beginner to purchase an inexpensive model for the first time. Over time, experience and knowledge in the field of photography will become wider, and then the question of how to choose a camera will no longer cause difficulties.
The main advantage is that no film is needed, photographs are recorded on a card, easily transferred, flash card, printer, CD or DVD. A digital camera allows you to view photos immediately after taking them, and delete those that turned out poorly right in the camera. If desired, you can process photos using special programs. To print the photos you like, you don’t have to go to a photo studio; you can do this on a personal photo printer.
The higher the sensitivity of the matrix, the greater the likelihood of getting a clear picture in twilight or darkness. However, high sensitivity contributes to the appearance of noise in the photograph.
Pay attention to the lens characteristics. The larger the zoom, the worse the picture becomes when enlarged (moderate zooms give better pictures than ultrazooms). Consult with about the focal length and aperture level (the higher it is, the more expensive the camera).
Video on the topic
Helpful advice
Optical stabilization allows you to get a clear picture even with minor vibrations of the device. The viewfinder allows you to preview the future image before pressing the shutter. The best would be a mirror viewfinder that displays the actual area of the frame.
Tip 3: How to choose digital professional camera
Currently professional digital ohm Only a DSLR camera can be considered. There are quite successful developments in which there is no bulky part with a mirror, but so far they have not reached the level that DSLRs have long acquired. Beginning photographers should pay attention to the number of preset modes, and experienced photographers should pay attention to the comfort of using the camera and the presence of new additional functions in it compared to previous models.
Instructions
You can choose a camera based on its characteristics on the Internet, but before buying, be sure to try holding different models in your hands. You must be comfortable using this particular camera, otherwise it will be difficult to expect good photos. One of the most important convenience parameters is the viewfinder. The classic viewfinder is an optical viewfinder, but some models also have an electronic viewfinder, which allows you to determine the image from the display on the camera in the same way as in compact cameras. For beginners, it is useful to find out whether the camera has various shooting modes with preset parameters. You won’t immediately learn how to correctly set all this manually, so good auto modes definitely won’t hurt at first.
The matrix, or sensor, is one of the most important parameters in a professional camera. It largely depends on her how high-quality the photographs will be. Moreover, it’s not just a matter of permission. Characteristics such as sensor sensitivity and its type are important. If you don’t know exactly what you need, then choose a CCD matrix equipped with a dust protection system. Many megapixels are, of course, good, but the physical size of the matrix is much more important. If it is small, the image will be noisy. Therefore, if the matrix on two cameras is the same size, then choose the one with a lower resolution, since the color on it will be better and there will be less noise. Sensitivity is measured in ISO - the higher it is, the better. But in practice, high sensitivity is rarely needed by anyone other than reporters, so if you prefer a staged photo, you can neglect this parameter.
The camera can be purchased with a factory lens; this package is called a Kit. In professional jargon, a camera separately from a lens is called a “body” or “box”. The more expensive the camera, the better the lens that comes with it. For cheap DSLR cameras, the basic lenses are very weak. Choosing the optics you need is a separate and very serious matter.
Focus on the requirements set by your style of working with the camera and your favorite genre. If you prefer reportage shooting, then an important parameter will be the number of frames per second and the time the camera is turned on (ready time for work). For any photographer, shutter time is important. These fractions of a second can cause your camera to be delayed so that a successful shot is missed.
Today, not only professionals, but also beginners can take photographs and get high-quality images. The opportunity to enjoy the process of photographing is provided by the rapid development of digital technology, in particular cameras.
A digital camera includes many functions that allow you to select the best shots, delete bad pictures, create videos, and connect the camera to a personal computer or laptop to view the photos you have taken. In addition, it is possible to edit and edit photographs using a variety of graphics programs, thanks to which you can change the photo beyond recognition and make it bright. Unlike classic cameras, digital cameras do not require purchase Supplies in the form of film, and information received in digital form will not grow old and can accompany a person throughout his life.
Choosing a high-quality camera that will contain all the necessary functions is a rather complicated process. This requires various knowledge in the field of camera characteristics, such as sensor, lens, memory, etc., and you also need to understand the purpose of each parameter and their functionality. Before purchasing a digital camera, you should decide for what purposes it will be used, for example, for professional photography or for home use. After this, you need to select the parameters of the future technology.
For example, some models allow you to create audio descriptions and comments for photographs, as well as photograph objects in dynamics. Video shooting of most available models is no different high level quality, and its duration is limited by free memory, so such cameras are suitable for not very demanding clients.
Proper selection of the most important parameters will make it easy to purchase a high-quality model that meets your needs.
If you have decided to buy yourself a digital camera, but don’t know what to look for and generally which camera to choose from the many offers on the market, then in this article we will analyze all the nuances in detail.
You immediately need to decide why you even need a camera.
Compact cameras or point-and-shoot cameras
Pros: small size and ease of use.
Cons: Poor image quality and lack of customizable options for creative options.
Such cameras are suitable for amateur photography of children, animals, and travel photographs. For example, the Nikon Coolpix A10 camera is a very good option.
But it's worth noting that modern smartphones have cameras that are almost better than compact cameras, so the best option will buy a good smartphone.
The compact camera category also includes cameras with a fixed lens. Such cameras will have a better zoom and slightly better photo quality, but the price is disproportionately higher than that of a regular point-and-shoot camera.
Professional compact cameras
Due to the larger matrix, the quality of photos is better, and some models are equipped with a good zoom. This class of technology took a little from the rest. It will be larger in size than regular compact cameras, but not as large as professional ones. However, the price of such a camera will be even higher. Our pick is the Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II.
A good option for amateur photography and travel.
SLR Cameras
- good quality of photographs;
- large matrix;
- many customizable functions;
- ability to change lenses;
- Ease of use.
- rather large dimensions;
- relatively high price.
DSLRs have become the standard in digital cameras and offer excellent functionality to suit the needs of almost any photographer.
It is the matrix in the camera that is responsible for the quality of photographs, and in SLR cameras, due to the size of the matrix, the photos are higher quality than in other cameras.
DSLR cameras are divided into 3 types:
- amateur;
- semi-professional;
- professional.
The main difference between professional SLR cameras is the full-format matrix. All amateur and some semi-professional cameras have a cropped matrix.
Crop is a reduction, i.e. reduced matrix (compared to full format). This means that the best quality will be on professional models with a full-frame sensor. But don't think that the difference is that noticeable. It will be almost impossible to notice the difference by eye; it will only be noticeable when shooting at high photosensitivity values (ISO). If you shoot in normal lighting, then for the average photographer there will be no difference in quality. The lens is much more responsible for the quality of the image.
So, a DSLR camera is suitable for any type of photography, except for travel (due to its large size).
For amateur photography, family photography, nature photography, and photographs for printing, it is better to choose an amateur SLR or semi-professional SLR camera. It is worth noting that many famous wedding and magazine photographers still work with semi-professional DSLRs. For professional wedding, studio, and advertising photography, a full-frame professional camera would be an excellent option.
Current Nikon SLR cameras today
Crop:
Amateur:
● Nikon D3300 (990 RUR with kit lens)
● Nikon D3400 (990 RUR with kit lens)
● Nikon D5500 (RUB 1,080 without lens)
● Nikon D5600 (RUB 1,210 without lens)
Semi-professional:
● Nikon D7200 (RUB 1,590 without lens)
● Nikon D7500 (RUB 2,330 without lens)
Professional:
● Nikon D500 (RUB 3,430 without lens)
Nikon D3300 is a basic model with the required minimum. This means that it has cheaper materials and less functionality, but in terms of image quality it is almost as good as more expensive models with a crop sensor. Nikon D500 is Nikon's top model with a crop sensor and has maximum functionality.
Full frame:
● Nikon D610 (RUB 2,250 without lens)
● Nikon D750 (RUB 3,090 without lens)
● Nikon D850 (RUB 6,850 without lens)
● Nikon D5 (RUB 10,500 without lens)
Conclusion: the best combination of price and quality is the Nikon D7200.
Current Canon SLR cameras today
Crop:
Amateur:
● Canon 1300D (RUB 770* with lens)
● Canon 100D (RUB 1,046 with lens)
● Canon 200D (RUB 1,110 without lens)
● Canon 750D (RUB 1,020 with lens)
● Canon 800D (RUB 1,280 without lens)
Semi-professional:
● Canon 77D (RUB 1,570 without lens)
● Canon 70D (RUB 1,550 without lens)
● Canon 80D (RUB 1,750 without lens)
Professional:
Full frame:
● Canon 5Ds (RUB 5,450 without lens)
Conclusion: the best combination of price and quality is the Canon 80D.
Mirrorless cameras
They appeared on the market relatively recently.
- Good matrix;
- Changing lenses;
- Manual settings;
- Compactness.
- high price;
- fast battery consumption.
A mirrorless camera is a great travel buddy, you'll get amazing quality photos and you can easily fit the camera into your inner jacket pocket. Mirrorless cameras are also very popular among videographers, in particular the Sony a7 series.
When you have decided on the type of camera you need, you should choose a specific model.
Take a closer look at the Olympus Micro 4/3, Fujifilm X or Sony α systems.
- Focus on model year, with new models it will be easier to repair and purchase accessories; manufacturers are also constantly adding new useful functions and improving the quality of matrices.
- Before going to the store select a specific model on the Internet, find out the cost and functionality. It is not always possible to get qualified help from sellers.
- Nikon or Canon? It doesn't matter! The quality of the photos is the same =)
- The main misconception is that the quality of photographs is determined by number of megapixels. This is wrong! Megapixels play a role when printing images. 16-20 megapixels is the best option, less is worse, but more is pointless, and sometimes even worse for the quality of pictures.
- Also consider whether you need video shooting in a camera, you shouldn’t overpay for a camera with 4k video if you don’t intend to use it.
- Flagships, guarantor of quality - for Canon cameras, Nikon, Sony.
- We recommend the DXomark website. Here statistics are collected and compiled ratings for all cameras, lenses and cameras of mobile phones. After choosing a camera, you can look at its ratings and compare it with other models.
- Be sure to buy a camera in the store and with a guarantee. Buying used photographic equipment is quite a risky activity, because it will not be possible to notice defects in the matrix and electronics in the camera right away.
What you should not pay attention to when choosing a camera:
● By the number of megapixels. 14 megapixels is enough to print a billboard!
● To the camera's maximum light sensitivity (ISO). Still, you shouldn’t raise your ISO values above 800.
● On digital zoom, this is a trick of the manufacturer. Still, you won’t shoot a love story from a distance of 700 meters!
● The number of shooting modes. Better come to us and learn manual camera settings in 2 hours!
● For all sorts of “improvements”. If the manufacturer does not give specifics about what is improved and in comparison with what, this is also a marketing ploy.
Let's sum it up
- For amateur photography - professional compact cameras, amateur-level SLR cameras.
- For professional photography – full-format SLR and mirrorless cameras.
- For travel – mirrorless and compact cameras.
- For video shooting - full-format SLR cameras and mirrorless Sony a7 line.
- If you want to shoot everything at once, use a semi-professional SLR camera.
Our choice
Mirrorless camera – Sony a7 III
SLR camera :
Crop – Canon 80d, Nikon 7200.
And remember: for a good shot, the main thing is skillful handling of the camera and use of its functionality. And the camera matrix and lens are responsible for the quality of the image.
If you want to not only buy a camera, but also learn how to take great shots in two hours, and for free, then sign up for a FREE CLASS on photography.
*Prices for cameras are indicated in Belarusian rubles for the spring of 2018.
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Category: Advice 04/11/2018Digital camera - the death of chemistry
There are hundreds of sites on the Internet with similar topics - how to choose a camera, how to choose a camera - but, perhaps, this is the most correct one, but how many correct and useful things are there on the Internet? :) So, you are planning to buy a camera. However, if you don’t like taking photographs, and don’t like looking at beautiful (or simply memorable) pictures, then you definitely shouldn’t buy it. We won't take into account professional photographers who also don’t like any of this, but are forced to earn their bread! So you've decided, but how to choose a camera? And what to take: film or digital? This question will surprise some people immensely, since now most people view their photo masterpieces on a computer screen, and few people print on photo paper. Moreover, it is convenient not only to view, but also to edit digital photographs on a PC.
Digital camera! The possibilities for creative self-expression here are truly endless. To get from film digital photo, you need to shoot it entirely, then (not knowing what worked and what didn’t) send it to development, then print it, then scan it from the card (with loss of quality) and only after that save the file on HDD PC. Film is yesterday. Professionals will now make me laugh, they will prove with foam at the mouth that you can take beautiful pictures with the help of an old Zenit, the quality of which will not be inferior to, and will surpass, modern digital cameras. They will also say that you can always buy the structural part of a modern film camera, including the autofocus system, for similar money, a class or even two higher than that of a digital camera. And professionals also say...
Don't listen to them. They are cunning and deceitful. They are unbearably tormented by the realization of the fact that now any dummies who don’t understand anything about photography can use a cheap digital camera to take a pretty decent picture with one click of a button, and if the picture doesn’t work out, then you can delete it and immediately take a new one. Film can't do that. And now even the most fanatical adherents of film cameras have a digital point-and-shoot camera in their bosom (for quick reportage shooting), and professionals have a good digital SLR with a powerful lens in their bags. Why, quickly and conveniently... And they reverently keep their old Zenit, like a museum exhibit, show it to friends with pleasure, show really high-quality photographs, but they take pictures of it less and less.
However, we will not laugh at the professionals. They shoot very high-quality large-sized photographs and not with a Zenit or FED, but with a medium and large format film camera. This is a completely separate niche, so we will consider digital. And first, let's finish comparing digital cameras with “regular” 35 mm film cameras.
Indeed, a digital camera is not always inferior in quality to a film camera of a similar class, but in terms of convenience it is an order of magnitude superior. No by 2 orders of magnitude. You don't need to constantly buy film; it's very convenient to store and edit pictures on a PC. And the most important thing is that to make sure that the photo turned out well or not, you don’t need to return home, send the film for development, and print a portrait of your beloved boss on a card to make sure that the photo is hopelessly ruined by blinking (and therefore closed) eyes. On the display of the digital camera you can immediately see the result of the shooting and, if necessary, immediately retake it. And one more thing: a digital camera can easily change the light sensitivity of its main photographic material - the matrix (also called a photosensor), where, in fact, the photograph is born. While in a film camera you will have to change not the settings, but the film itself - take out one and insert another... Among other things, digital is developing at a gigantic pace (processors, sensors, algorithms), but film seems to have reached perfection: there is nothing left to develop there . These latter factors will completely outweigh any superiority of film cameras, and here the question is - how to choose a camera- Actually, it no longer raises any questions. In addition, some firms have gradually switched to digital.
For example, since 2006, Nikon has almost completely stopped producing film cameras (only two models remain - Nikon F6 and Nikon FM10), concentrating on the production of digital photographic equipment. At the same time, technical support for discontinued cameras will continue for another ten years.
What other advantages of numbers? I almost forgot: digital photos never fade! :)
Photochemistry is dying very slowly but surely...
How to choose a camera
Digital camera - compact or DSLR
Why such difficulties? Yes, I just need to choose a camera to take regular pictures, and not bother with the details. Maybe you could also suggest getting acquainted with the camera’s design? Why do I need this crap? Not a question! You close the website, go to the store and ask the seller: how to choose a camera? He will explain everything competently in 5 minutes, show the models and, if you wish, sell the one you need :) The question is different. Why are you still looking for materials on the Internet, why are you reading this article? A?
And I will answer. When the seller selects the right camera for you, you still have to decide whether to buy it (or not)! No matter how you shift the choice of camera to the seller (friends, acquaintances, photographers), there is no escape from this issue...
So, we decided that we will consider only the numbers. But which one? I am always killed by a bunch of photo sites where the teapot is first stunned by the abundance technical characteristics cameras, then they confuse him with countless tests like Sony vs Canon, and in the end they finally finish off with the conclusions: “one camera has better color rendition, while the other has less noise and chromatic aberrations.” Adding fuel to the fire is the argument that when choosing a camera, you should first of all not chase the number of megapixels, but pay attention to the quality of the optics. Correct, but absolutely empty words! I wonder how a simple teapot can determine the quality of optics in general, and glass in particular, in a store? And why are megapixels not important if the detail of the image directly depends on them? Maybe ask the seller about this, who often knows even less than you? And how, in the end, do you choose a camera?
Let's try to figure it out. There are 2 types of teapots. Some want to do beautiful pictures, others are protocol photographs, like “Vasya was here,” but both of them want to choose a camera that suits them.
There are 2 types of cameras: compacts (especially cheap and limited ones are called point-and-shoot cameras) and SLR cameras.
soap box- this is a fully automatic camera in which there is no manual control of shutter speed and aperture, it has a built-in flash and a fixed lens (usually zoom);
compact- advanced soap dish: has manual settings, a slightly larger matrix (photosensor) than a soap dish, as well as greater weight, dimensions and price; their lens is also non-removable, but with a more decent aperture ratio;
non-DSLR— a large compact with the ability to change optics, sometimes with a large (like a DSLR) matrix;
SLR cameras- got their name for aiming the viewfinder using a mirror, have all manual settings (the main ones are located on the body and not hidden in the menu), a different focusing system, the ability to change optics, a larger matrix and many other features. They have a lot of weight, dimensions and price:(
We will consider these types of photographic equipment in more detail, since point-and-shoot cameras and SLRs exist in both film and digital photography.
The main difference between a digital camera and a film camera is the matrix (photosensitive sensor), which acts as a film. This is where the image is born.
In a digital compact, the selection of frame boundaries and automatic focusing are carried out directly on the matrix with the image displayed on the display screen in real time (this “miracle” is called Live View), or through the viewfinder. In point-and-shoot cameras and most compacts there is no viewfinder at all, only in top models compact cameras. Most often we select the frame border on the screen.
By the way, if you switch the SLR camera to the Live View operating mode (there is one there), the camera will work like a point-and-shoot camera, aiming at the matrix.
A non-mirror camera (which includes a compact camera with a point-and-shoot camera) has (I repeat: in top models!) a simple optical viewfinder located above the lens, so when shooting at very close distances, there is a mismatch between the image that the camera lens “sees” and what it sees photographer through the viewfinder eyepiece. Isn’t this where the proverb “the eye sees, but the tooth numbs” comes from? :)
the image observed by the viewfinder of a non-reflex camera does not match the image in the lens
This mismatch is also called parallax. And the closer the object being photographed, the more parallax makes itself felt. Therefore, in digital compacts it is more accurate to aim using the screen: it has 100% image coverage! In addition, the lack of a viewfinder in point-and-shoot cameras (and most compacts) makes the design simpler, lighter, and ultimately cheaper. It is due to this that the camera becomes compact (and due to the smaller matrix too).
Excuse me, why the hell is this viewfinder even needed? And even in expensive models! Isn't it better to choose a simpler camera, with a screen-based camera? There are several reasons not to do this:
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Comment to point No. 5.
Sighting directly on the matrix (with pixel-by-pixel rendering of the image onto the screen) has a very serious drawback: the slowness of autofocus and, as a result, the general brakes of the digital compact (and DSLRs in Live View mode). The reason for the compact's problem is the lack of phase-phase autofocus sensors; with this design, the sensors are technically difficult to position in the optical path of the camera. But putting a super-powerful processor in a cheap camera doesn’t have commercial sense. Don’t forget that point-and-shoot cameras are produced not for the development of reportage photography, but to increase sales revenue :)
So, we have identified the cause of the slowness, it remains to explain the consequence. Due to the delay in focusing on the screen, we may not “click” exactly what we had in mind, since the bird being photographed can quickly fly away, and a fidgety child will have time to show the back of his head to the lens (and even more than once). As a result, the terrible brakes of both cheap point-and-shoot cameras and more expensive compact cameras make reportage photography unrealistic. Even top-end compacts with an optical viewfinder do not solve the problem, because they still focus on the matrix.
The conclusion is simple: the screen is only needed for viewing photos. If your camera has a viewfinder, it is extremely undesirable to use the screen for shooting, and in DSLRs you should never use it.
You will read the exceptions to this rule when we get to the rotating screen.
compact camera diagram
The diagram shows the misalignment between the photographer’s gaze and the lens: the viewfinder is located above the optics and matrix. Operating principle: light falls through the lens directly onto the matrix, after which the camera processor processes information from each pixel and draws the image on the screen in real time. In addition, the matrix sensors provide continuous focusing. All this causes not only time delays, or, as they say, “soap box brakes,” but also heating of the matrix.
But let's return to the viewfinder. So, in compact cameras there may be no viewfinder at all. And, conversely, not every DSLR has an active screen with viewing the frame BEFORE shooting - you can only view photos on it. Many people ended up being unpleasantly surprised when switching to a DSLR: why can’t you aim at the screen?? :) (the situation has long changed: now almost all SLR cameras are equipped with such a display.)
Reflex camera
Is there viewfinder parallax in DSLRs?
A SLR camera has a more sophisticated device for selecting the boundaries of the future photograph. Aiming occurs directly through the lens! How is this possible if there is film (or matrix) behind the lens? That's right, there is no viewfinder in this place (and there cannot be!), the eyepiece itself is located on the back wall of the camera but higher (as in a compact camera). The trick lies in the rotating mirror located at an angle in the area between the lens and the matrix!
SLR camera diagram
The mirror blocks the light from reaching the photographic material, then, reflecting the image upward, directs it through a glass prism into the viewfinder eyepiece. This sighting allows you to frame your shot more accurately: you are looking directly through the lens, and not over it! Another advantage of the optical viewfinder is that the matrix at this moment “does not work”, does not heat up, and does not consume the battery.
Why is a glass pentaprism needed? The fact is that a mirror by its nature gives an inverted reflection, i.e. mirror The person will be depicted upside down! And the prism turns it over to its “original” position and directs it into the viewfinder eyepiece. After pressing the “trigger”, the mirror folds back and the light falls on the matrix (or film), “highlighting” the image there. After which the mirror immediately returns to its original state - you can take a new photo! In this operating principle, a film camera and a digital SLR are not much different.
The difference is that the photographic film must be shot to the end (without knowing whether the pictures are obtained or not), then developed, then the photographs are printed, and the matrix immediately produces electrical signals from its cells, which are then encoded into numbers - and the camera processor, believe me , knows how to work with numbers! Next, the digitized photo is stored on the memory card as a file. You can view it on the display, or you can copy it to your computer’s hard drive and admire the masterpiece on the big screen.
Externally, an SLR camera differs from a point-and-shoot camera in its large dimensions and a characteristic hump at the top (pentaprism!). Compare both designs: there is no mirror in the point-and-shoot, there is no heavy glass pentaprism and (in most models) there is no viewfinder. That’s why the DSLR is huge, heavy and expensive! There are, of course, advantages :)
A DSLR camera has one more advantage: in a compact, the lens is built in once and for all, but in a DSLR, lenses can be changed, using each for its own tasks.
DSLR and interchangeable lens
There are different types of interchangeable lenses. For example, when shooting a portrait, “portrait lenses” are used, there are macro and telephoto lenses, there are wide-angle lenses, etc. In digital compacts, as a rule, a “station wagon” with a zoom is installed, i.e. A lens with a variable focal length, suitable for various tasks, but, of course, it is inferior to a specialized lens. We will return to the characteristics of optics more than once; in addition, there is a separate page for the curious
Let's summarize a bit. Has many differences reflex camera from compacta: fast phase detection autofocus system, lack of viewfinder parallax, larger matrix, and, of course, higher price... In short, there are differences and they are significant, but the main thing, in my opinion, is not this at all, but what and how you will shoot, and For what.
It is easier to shoot a report, sports, or other rapidly changing events with a DSLR. A DSLR camera gives higher quality images in difficult lighting and high ISOs. It is indispensable when shooting portraits, when you want to highlight the face with a shallow depth of field, blurring the background. And it’s easier to shoot landscapes with a soap dish and a compact: everything will be sharp up to the horizon. Such cameras are easier to carry and easy to take on trips. Top models of compacts are not inferior in photo quality to DSLRs - with good light, or minimal sensitivity. But the lights of the city at night without a tripod will look ugly on any camera!
If you are not shooting a reportage (and amateurs, as a rule, do not need it), you are taking ordinary photographs for memory (where you have been, what you have seen, the faces of relatives), you are not planning to view (or print) large sizes, you are not going to improve your photography skills, and you are not If you have special requirements for the quality of your photos, then take an inexpensive point-and-shoot camera without manual settings - this camera is yours! And vice versa.
Buying a DSLR camera to use it only in green mode (“automatic”) is pointless, since in this case the capabilities of the DSLR are used by only a quarter (and sometimes less).
If a person does not understand what depth of field is and how to focus correctly, then a SLR camera will bring no less grief than a cheap point-and-shoot camera, in which everything is always in focus. And the DSLR controls placed on the body will be a waste of money, and the size and weight will be annoying. A DSLR camera is needed for those who want to really learn how to take photographs, and not click everything in a row and immediately post it on social networks without worrying about the quality.
I have already briefly explained how to choose a camera, but which one is up to you!
If you are not well versed in photography and still don’t really know what you will be photographing, and don’t even know why you need it at all, but want to buy it, then choose the cheapest camera. I love it! Because you are not even sure that you will be interested in photography. Because even a cheap point-and-shoot camera produces quite normal pictures in good lighting. Because tomorrow you will get tired of taking pictures of the same drunk faces at the table, and then you won’t mind giving the camera to someone on Valentine’s Day, or giving it to your son. Agree that it would be a shame to give a camera that costs a ton of dollars to your offspring so that he, satisfying his curiosity, picks up a hammer and looks - “what’s inside it?” If you become interested in photography, then believe me, you yourself will know exactly which camera is best for you, and the point-and-shoot camera will not go to waste, and will be quite suitable for everyday photography. Remember - a small camera that fits in your pocket, which you can quickly grab and click, can be more useful than a sophisticated professional DSLR, because the moment may not be repeated.
Agree that it’s not even a very high-quality photo interesting moment It's always better than no photo at all! In addition, carrying around a case with a DSLR, a set of lenses and other photo accessories is not always convenient and not appropriate everywhere. You don’t need to look at a professional - that’s his job. You don’t need to look up to an advanced amateur - you haven’t become one yet and you don’t know whether you want to become one.
Well, what about it? Wouldn't it be expensive to buy a soap dish in order to also buy a DSLR? I'll try to explain. It is unlikely that a teapot will become an experienced photographer so quickly when in 3-4 months he will already need a new camera. Believe me, they don't grow that fast ( And that’s not what growth is all about!). It’s much worse to immediately buy an expensive SLR camera, so that later it gathers dust on the shelf, or, for example, does not suit your tastes. In addition, it is necessary to understand that the presence SLR camera with a good lens, it doesn’t automatically give anyone interesting and/or beautiful pictures. Just like a soapbox, of course. In this matter, all cameras are absolutely equal!
However, if you are overcome by doubts, there is no need to immediately take the soap dish. Take your time, think! It's best to trust yourself, and this will be much easier if you take the test
It’s time to discuss the choice of camera, but let’s pay tribute to tradition to talk about what makes up its quality (and, accordingly, price). Quality, and hence the price, depends on the size of the matrix. Regular size in millimeters. The larger the size, the better (and more expensive) the camera. Of course, there is also a lens, focal length (zoom), focusing and exposure metering system, presence/absence of manual settings, processor and a lot of other things that make up the price, but everything is so strictly tied to the size of the matrix - including the quality of the photo, that this factor is, apparently, the main one for the digital compact. A DSLR camera has the same price criteria but with a slight adjustment. The lens for it can sometimes cost more than the camera itself along with all the stuffing, including the matrix :)
Camera in price list
What can you find out in the price list?
When you go to a store, no one will upset you with the abundance of technical parameters of cameras :) As a rule, they will immediately indicate the number of megapixels and zoom. What else? Here's a hat from an old price list (November 2007) of a not-so-shabby store." Computer World", camera models are taken from the inexpensive price range. So, MP is megapixels, ISO is photosensitivity, about zoom a little later, the rest of the designations are already clear. Let's try to determine which camera is suitable for us based on the characteristics from this (now historical!) table .
| Camera model | CCD MP | zoom optical/digital | ISO | memory type | LCD monitor | TV- out | weight gr. | menu russian | price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon Powershot A-450 | 5 | 3/4 | 80-400 | SD MMC | 2" | + | 165 | + | 3870 |
| Olympus FE-210 | 7.1 | 3/4 | 64-640 | xD | 2.5" | + | 122 | + | 4180 |
| Pentax Optio E30 | 7.1 | 3/4 | 80-400 | SD | 2.4" | + | 137 | - | 4970 |
| Sony DSC-S650 | 7.2 | 3/6 | 100-1000 | MSDuo | 2" | + | 130 | + | 5190 |
| Nikon L10 | 5 | 3/4 | 64-800 | SD | 2" | + | 115 | + | 4390 |
Let's look at a brief summary of the headings in order, and then return to some points in more detail.
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There's no point in continuing.
It seems like a lot has been written, but almost nothing has been said :) Alas, the type of memory card, TV-out, weight, LCD display and the presence of a Russian menu do not affect the quality of pictures and the creative capabilities of the camera (at least they should not!), but it’s more clear to the buyer :) and, of course, the price is clear...
I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that such important indicators of a digital camera as matrix size, lens aperture and focal length are missing. It doesn't even indicate whether the camera has manual settings!
The lack of useful information has already become a certain criterion for deceiving the consumer. It’s clear who they take him for, it’s good that there’s also a price in the price list :) What else? Megapixels are also indicated - from 5 and above... And this is in cheap cameras, more expensive MPs have even more, and now even reaches tens... In 2012, a compact from Sony came out with 20 megapixels (twenty!), the majority cameras have ISO 3200 and even 6400, catching up with the performance of other DSLRs! Modern cameras are packed with electronics, gyroscopes, image stabilizers, they can level the horizon, recognize faces (and even smiles), take high-speed continuous photography, shoot in HDR, RAW, panorama stitching and much more: from useful functions to outlandish excesses...
And when exchanging old equipment for a new one, we choose a much more advanced camera, losing sight of one small detail, which we brush aside like an annoying fly in front of the lens: this has nothing to do with the growth of the photographer’s skill! And what is typical is that the megapixel race continues, but the pictures do not become more interesting :)
The core of the article about choosing a camera was written in 2007, then, rereading it again, I decided to add a header from the price list of the same store (November 2011) for comparison, and now 2011 has also become distant history... The characteristics of the cheapest camera are indicated ( 2300 rub.):
Effective matrix resolution 10 megapixels
Maximum pixel resolution 3648 x 2736
Optical zoom 5x
Digital zoom 4x
Sensitivity (ISO) 80-1600
Aperture 2.7-6.8
SD, SDHC, SDXC memory card
Dimensions/weight 96x60x29 mm /170 g.
Additional information (entry level full automatic).
Progress is obvious, aperture (lens aperture) has appeared! In addition, from the additional information it is clear that the camera does not have manual settings, and this is also useful information :) But everything else, alas, is the same... There is no focal length, no matrix size, and for some reason the number of points is duplicated number of megapixels. The additional information for other cameras was even less meaningful, for example: " good price, bright display, autofocus" (yes, they all have a price, a bright display and autofocus!), or "compact dimensions for a superzoom camera", or "a powerful camera for amateurs"... Is this actually a SLR camera or not? It’s not clear!
Everything is done so that the user is unable to distinguish good product from bad according to the required characteristics. This applies not only to the camera.
Alas, marketing considerations and profit come first, and this suppression of characteristics (or their inflated increase) concerns not only stores, but often even manufacturing companies (!). Therefore, now in a calm and non-shop environment we will figure out what’s what. Let us not allow ourselves to be deceived by sellers, manufacturers, and all those who allow them to work in our country according to their standards. Heads up, fellow photographers!
Camera and photo size
The size of the photo and the detail of the image directly depend on the number of megapixels of the camera.
The good thing about detail is that when you zoom in, you can see more small details: every bump on the skin, every eyelash! With a large number of megapixels, you can crop the image, cutting out interesting fragments from it :)
The purpose of your photo sessions can be two things. Admiring and viewing photos:
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1. on a print (photo paper) 2. on a computer monitor |
1. On the print. How many megapixels should a camera have to print photos? This is something you must determine for yourself (not the seller) - what size you need for complete happiness. It's simple: the more megapixels the camera has, the larger the size of the photo you can print.
The following table shows the most common photo card formats and the number of camera pixels required for printing at 300 and 200 dpi (dots per inch, 300 dpi is the printing standard). And we see that even a 2 megapixel camera is enough to print a regular 10 x 15 cm photo! Think about what you want to overpay for when buying a camera with, say, 20 megapixels.
Are you sure you want to print huge posters?
| Photo size and camera resolution | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| print (cm) | printing at 300 dpi resolution | at a resolution of 200 dpi | ||
| 10 x 15 | 1181 x 1772 2.09 mp | 787 x 1181 0.93 mp | ||
| 13 x 18 | 1535 x 2126 3.26 mp | 1024 x 1417 1.45 mp | ||
| 15 x 20 | 1772 x 2362 4.18 MP | 1181 x 1575 1.86 mp | ||
| 20 x 30 | 2362 x 3543 8.37 mp | 1575 x 2362 3.72 mp | ||
Dear secretaries! It's simple: the standard format of an A4 paper sheet (for comparison): 21 x 29.70 cm (centimeters).
You can learn more about dpi, viewing photos and even pre-press preparation for a photo lab on the page What is dpi
2. viewing on a computer monitor. How many megapixels do you need to view photos on a monitor? To do this, let's take the pixel resolution of a 30-inch monitor - not the tiniest one :) Its resolution can be 2560x1600, so only 5 megapixels are enough: compare with the resolution of an old 5 MP camera 2592x1944. Five to spare! And for the vast majority of smaller monitors, 2-3 will be enough. Here is the resolution of a typical 16:9 Full HD monitor format - 1920x1080 = 2.07 MP. Just two! The redundancy of megapixels of any camera is obvious. But this redundancy (with a large matrix, with good color rendition) can be useful for framing or cropping in graphic editor. Last question: are you sure you will master the editor? :)
Well, why not just say: a multi-pixel camera is great, the detail of the image and the size of the photo matter, and these are the notorious megapixels! These are the concepts that are most accessible to an unprepared buyer, and therefore this is how sellers like to explain it - the more megapixels, the better. This is the honest truth: if the photo is of high quality, with correct color rendition. A blurry face of a lilac hue can have as many pixels as you like, but it won’t make it any happier :) A small compact matrix (costs of compactness!) + inability to shoot results in worse color rendition, blur, and a lot of noise - especially with insufficient lighting.
To have multi-pixels and, at the same time, normal colors, you need a large matrix! SLR cameras have very large matrices (3-5 times larger than on digital compacts!), there are a lot of pixels, and, more importantly, the size of the pixels themselves is also larger, but such cameras are much more expensive. Therefore, there is no need to chase the number of megapixels. Ask the seller (or better yet, look in the product data sheet!) - the size of the matrix is much more important.
Of course, the detail of the photo and the size of the photo matter! And it’s up to you to decide what’s more important. I just wanted to warn beginners - don’t chase megapixels thoughtlessly, without understanding why you need it. You just need to know that now cameras smaller than 8 megapixels are not produced at all, and for printing standard photos 10 x 15 cm, 2 is enough! You should not think that the price and quality of a camera should be expressed in dollars per megapixel! Not only is it important to have a high resolution, not only a large matrix, but also high-quality optics...
Digital camera: choose according to your needs!
There are different categories of users. One girl showed me pictures on her computer taken by an old mobile phone. The pictures were poor (small matrix, tiny lens eye, it’s good if it’s not plastic). A resolution of 0.3 megapixels (it was in 2006) was only sufficient for the size of the phone display, on which, in fact, viewing was intended. The color rendering was terrible; it was impossible to look at faces with red-violet skin without shuddering; + creepy noises. But that's not what this is about. According to the girl, her mobile phone took excellent pictures. I didn’t argue with the lady, I just noticed that such pictures are intended only for viewing on a small screen.
- Nothing like this! - she objected, “I even printed on A4 format and it turned out very well, all the faces are recognizable!”
In her own way, she is, of course, right. First of all, she should be satisfied with the quality, not me. And she’s quite happy with it. But as you can see, I was right when I said that some beginners need the cheapest camera, because for them even a cell phone takes pictures just fine.
Choose a camera according to your needs! Take pictures when purchasing in a store - you may be quite happy with them. There is no need for a beginner to throw out a ton of money for an expensive DSLR until he wants to see the difference. And perhaps he will never feel such a need. On the other hand, if you have read this far and haven’t given up yet, then the need is apparently still there! Of course, it’s up to you to decide whether this is so.
Camera in a mobile phone
Isn't it easier to buy a mobile phone or smartphone? You won’t surprise anyone with 5-8 megapixel phones for a long time. and even more. Here is an example of a photo taken with an old mobile phone made in 2009 for 6,000 rubles, equipped with an average camera with an f/3.2 lens, autofocus, macro photography and a tiny matrix, which, of course, makes terrible noise. But in bright light, the camera takes pictures quite well - enough to fully justify its presence in the phone :) By clicking on the photo you will download the full size of 2048 x 1536 pixels weighing about a megabyte each.
landscape ISO=80 macro ISO=100
If the photos are not enlarged, then everything looks quite presentable, but when enlarged to full size, noise is visible. The background of the second photo was especially damaged. We must pay tribute - the shooting was not carried out in the brightest lighting.
In any case, the camera of a modern smartphone has gone beyond the small screen of an old mobile phone (for which, in fact, it was originally intended). And it became quite obvious that smartphones in this regard have grown over time. last years. Many are equipped with pretty good cameras and a variety of shooting modes. Their photo quality is almost not inferior to cheap point-and-shoot cameras, and in good lighting even to SLR cameras (it will be inferior in difficult conditions and with special quality requirements).
You can buy smartphones for the purpose of everyday photography if you do not have great criteria for the quality of photographs, but if you want to get high-quality images in more difficult lighting, or have other requirements, then this is the question posed in this article. Therefore, it’s better to return to choosing a camera rather than a smartphone :)
Digital camera: zoom and focal length
Focal length is (roughly) the distance from the middle of the lens to the focus point. It is designated, for example, as follows: 5.8-24 This means that the focal length can vary from 5.8 mm at the short end (wide-angle lens position) to 24 mm at the long end (telephoto). In the store sometimes (not always, not everywhere) they indicate the so-called “equivalent focal length”, also known as “EFF”, also known as “35 mm equivalent”, simply “35 mm”, and also known as -
So, focal length.
This is a very important indicator of the camera lens, but in the store they like to indicate the notorious “zoom” instead - for example, in our case, zoom x 4 (fourfold zoom). What is it and where does the number 4 come from? A zoom is a lens with a variable focal length. It is also called the scary words “zoom lens”, “vario lens” - and all this is intended to confuse a beginner, no less :) But there is no need to be afraid, it’s all the same thing: the lens has a variable focal length! Or, in short - zoom.
The abundance of terms indicates a complete lack of standards in designations (of cameras, computers, and everything else), and this is really confusing. And if, for example, for Pentax DSLRs, a professional series lens is designated with an asterisk - * (star series!), then Sony has a similar one marked with the letter G, Canon has an L, and Nikon generally does not have a clear division into professional lenses and not so much! And Sigma and Tamron, which produce optics for cameras from different manufacturers, designate such lenses EX and SP, respectively... In general, while companies are terribly proud of their symbols, the user is forced to search all available photo sources for the decoding of the mysterious designations. In the meantime, producers didn’t agree on a useful task (everyone, apparently, is a proud man who punches for his letters!), useful information can be found on the Lens Marking page. This is for those whose choice is a DSLR camera. The marking of compact cameras is simpler; they usually indicate only the focal length and aperture ratio.
Let's return to our lens, which has a focal length of 5.8-24. In this case, the long end of the focal length (24 mm) will be approximately 4 times larger than the short end (5.8 mm). When asked what this means, the seller will always answer - the camera provides a 4x magnification, and the larger the zoom, the better. Is it so? Let's try to figure it out.
What does zoom give us? Approaching the subject of shooting. Simply put, we are lazy, we enlarge the object, instead of walking towards it with our feet :) At the same time, the lens moves forward, the focal length increases. When it is at its maximum, we have the terms “telephoto”, “long focus”, “at the long end” and other non-offensive expressions :)
The zoom is very convenient, but in the minus (well, there is no plus without a minus!) At the long end of the zoom, the aperture almost always drops. Therefore, one small piece of advice: do not chase a large 10-20-30x zoom if you are not going to buy a tripod, and in bad light without a tripod you will more often get blurry pictures and waste money! Choose a 3-4x zoom, or try shooting at a long zoom right in the store without a tripod or flash.
By the way, zoom and magnification are not exactly the same thing! All that relates to magnification is a focal length over 50 mm (in 35 mm format), which corresponds to the angle of view of the human eye. For example, the lens has a focal length of 35-105 mm. Zoom = 3 (105/35), but the actual magnification will be 105/50=2.1, i.e. 2.1 times more, and not 3 times, as the seller will assure you. In general, ideally there would be not a zoom, but a prime camera (or a lens for a camera) with a fixed (constant) focal length, but how sometimes you want to bring the subject of shooting closer to you!
What other information, besides magnification (and this is not entirely half-true :-), does the word zoom convey? None - both for DSLR lenses and for the built-in optics of compact cameras.
For example, 3x zoom. This doesn't say anything. Here is a camera (or rather a lens for it) with a focal length of 18-55 mm, this is a 3x zoom (55/18 = 3).
The lens with a focal length of 70-210 mm also has a 3x zoom (210/70=3). However, the first one is a wide-angle lens. Usually this lens is used to shoot landscapes - at a wide angle it will fit more :) The second is a long-focus lens for completely different types of shooting, for example, for portraits, or photo hunting.
And both have 3x zoom!
In short, these are completely different lenses for completely different tasks. The word zoom was invented by devilishly inventive marketers in order to avoid explaining concepts to the buyer for a long time and quickly persuade him to buy. For example, to say - a large zoom is good - it magnifies more! 10x zoom is more than 3x! A satisfied customer takes the camera. It is done:)
Therefore, when buying, pay attention not to the zoom, but to the focal length, otherwise you will buy a camera that will not suit your creative inclinations at all.
This concerns optical zoom, I won’t talk in detail about digital zoom, it’s a waste of time - you’ll still have time to ruin your photos with such a zoom on your computer, and it’s completely free :), and you’ll understand everything yourself by enlarging the picture many times. On the camera, digital zoom should be turned off immediately and used only for viewing, but not for shooting. However, as you noticed, in the price list above, digital zoom is indicated as a fraction after optical zoom. Digital zoom is the most important marketing indicator; it is used almost without fail in the price lists of many stores and manufacturers’ websites. They often indicate the product of the optical zoom to the digital zoom - what marketers will come up with to mislead the buyer with big inflated numbers!
Therefore, do not pay any attention to these “works of art”. The only shame is that huge amounts of money are spent on maintaining marketing departments and advertising - in the end it turns out that they are investing in God knows what, but not in product quality. As a result, prices for goods rise, quality does not, and on a national scale, advertising and PR cause irreparable damage to society, and someday people will either reject this stench, or... go wild and turn into idiots. Now society, with the help of television and other media, is moving along the second path by leaps and bounds. Money, effort and resources are invested not in improving the quality of the product, but in advertising education of such an audience that will buy everything that is imposed on it. In other words, it’s not a product for the client, but... preparing the client “for the product.” It's not as funny and harmless as it seems. But in fact it is criminal (yes, fraud on an especially large scale). But we will not remake society; now our task is more modest, but no less noble - not to let ourselves be confused when buying!
Let's return to focal length. All camera lenses are divided, depending on the focal length, into wide-angle, standard, telephoto and universal. A universal one can be both a wide-angle and a telephoto at the same time. All this is quite conventional, a landscape can be shot with a telephoto lens, but more often a wide-angle lens (or a wide-angle position of a compact lens) is used for landscapes, so you need to have a general idea. Even when buying a soap dish, it’s a good idea to ask what kind of lens it is, what aperture ratio? is there a wide angle? how wide is it? :)
You can see a table of dividing lenses by focal length, types of photography and angles of view of lenses in the article about EGF. Anyone who missed the link above can check it out again below: :)
Then don’t forget to come back - we still haven’t learned how to choose a camera. But first you should familiarize yourself with other concepts, otherwise making a decision will be even more difficult. The camera will not run away from you! This tool is quite complex and has many characteristics, which is why the article is long.
Digital camera: rotating screen
I would like to say a few words about such convenience as a rotating screen, which some digital compacts and SLR cameras have. The convenience is far from free (and what in our world is given for free, except cheese in a famous place?) but it is worth it. There are some moments that are very difficult (if not impossible) to film without a rotating screen. This is shooting in hard-to-reach places and/or from an awkward position. Even when shooting a portrait from a tripod, it is more convenient to point the camera without touching the viewfinder eye each time - and thereby without interrupting contact with the subject. The screen is very convenient (and sometimes even indispensable) for macro photography, when you don’t have to lie down on the ground to aim at some spider bug. In addition, the compact screen always has more accurate framing than its viewfinder, even if the screen is not rotatable.
Some DSLR cameras, as mentioned, also have a Live View screen, incl. and rotary. Why does a DSLR need Live View when it has a more accurate viewfinder than the compact? Firstly, I listed the situations above, and secondly, the screen holds more information than the viewfinder, which is sometimes more convenient. It is advisable to view through the eyepiece, and frame using the screen when this is difficult with the viewfinder and shooting speed is not needed.
The world's first SLR camera that supports LCD viewing was released in 2006 (Olympus E-330), and now most SLR cameras are equipped with Live View displays. Of the rotating screens, some can be rotated in one plane, some in several planes. It’s interesting that all soap dishes and digital compacts (unlike DSLRs) much earlier had a screen with a preview, incl. and rotary.
Digital camera: image stabilizer
Digital cameras are increasingly using image stabilizer, which strives to make the image on the matrix still when the camera shakes in the hands of the photographer. This thing is especially effective at shutter speeds of 1/30-1/60 sec., and/or when shooting at a long focus - the photo will not be blurry!
In photographic equipment, 2 types of stabilization are used: optical (in the lens) or matrix (in the camera itself). By tracking the movement of the camera in space, the stabilizer shifts the optical element of the lens (in the first case), in the second, on the contrary, the matrix itself shifts. Class! - the hands are shaking and shaking, but there is no movement, because the picture is motionless relative to the matrix :)
In fact, everything is not so chocolatey, the stabilizer only reduces the vibrations of the camera (tremor of the photographer’s hands!), and does not dampen them completely, since it itself creates small vibrations: gyroscopes work, electromagnets constantly shift the matrix left-right/up-down (or shifting the block lenses in the lens.) The stabilizer can be used at shutter speeds of 1/4-1/500 sec., but beyond these limits it is best to turn it off:
1. self-oscillations can lead to slight blurring, even if not always noticeable.
2. The battery drains quite a lot.
When using a tripod, it’s clear to turn it off, and a shutter speed shorter than 1/500 will handle fluctuations just fine!
Matrix shift has its advantages (and, of course, disadvantages) of stabilization. Disadvantages also appear at long focus - the amplitude of image oscillations relative to the matrix is too high here and therefore the matrix simply does not have time to move behind the image in time... On the other hand, all lenses will be stabilized, and the method itself does not require the presence of an additional optical element in the lens, which slightly reduces the aperture of the latter; this occurs when using a system with optical stabilization (Canon, Nikon). But optical works better on long-focus lenses.
Of course, it is not superfluous to have a stabilizer, but it will not completely solve the problems. The photographer will always struggle with movement and darkness: such is his fate... There is also digital stabilization: the processor moves the image itself, but this is no longer the case - the processor is forced to reserve some of the pixels for image shifting and they do not participate in image formation.
In short, whatever one may say, there is no happiness in life! But if the stabilizer allows you to shorten the shutter speed by 3-4 positions, then this is not bad at all. Today, almost all cameras are equipped with a stabilizer of one class or another, so just find out which one your camera is equipped with.
Digital camera: lens and aperture
— How strange, why is so little said about the lens aperture? - the experienced amateur will exclaim and he will be right. Aperture is the value of the maximum open aperture at the short end of the focal length. Isn't that too strong and abstruse? Okay, let's put it simply:
It's just a hole in the lens that allows light to pass through - the bigger the better! :)
The aperture blades can narrow this hole, they can open it, and the larger the hole (sorry, lens aperture!), the more the aperture can open - the more possibilities for controlling light, especially when shooting at short shutter speeds or long zooms. Just one small "but". An increase in lens aperture sharply leads not only to an increase in the price of the camera, but also to an increase in its dimensions, and in this case, a digital compact and a point-and-shoot camera cease to be compact, which does not correspond to their definition. Therefore, on cameras of this type, the lens aperture is approximately the same - it’s good if 2.8 is at the short end of the zoom and doesn’t drop too much at the maximum ( typical value- 4.8). It’s very bad if the difference in aperture between these zoom values is large - this is where a large zoom becomes especially useless, and (what’s most offensive!), far from free. If you want to spend money, it’s better to pay attention to compacts with a larger matrix, or immediately take a closer look at a DSLR. But no matter how much money you are going to spend, remember: there is no camera with a large matrix, large zoom, large aperture ratio at all ends of the zoom, and at the same time compact and inexpensive! They don't even promise that in advertising...
By the way, some digital compacts have fairly fast lenses, faster than even kit DSLR lenses (a kit is a standard lens supplied with the camera). It has a typical value of 3.5-5.6 - and this is worse than the 2.8-4.8 of many digital compacts. However, a DSLR camera, even with a whale, will shoot in dimly lit places better than a compact one - due to the better ISO on a larger matrix. I'm not even talking about interchangeable optics, for example, expensive high-aperture f/1.4 lenses.
Read more about lenses for SLR cameras here:
lenses
As for the quality of optics and everything else, here you will have to completely trust the manufacturer. It is clear that even a specialist will not determine the quality of the lenses, the quality of the lens assembly, electronics and mechanics without meticulous testing in laboratory conditions. Therefore, unfortunately, there can be only one recommendation on how to choose a camera and lens - you should choose a well-known manufacturer. Unfortunately - because you have to pay for it: 20 percent for quality, and 80 percent for the brand name and the degree of its promotion :)
Digital camera: list of famous manufacturers
| Company | Foundation year | A country | Optics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Canon | 1937 | Japan | its |
| Nikon | 1917 | Japan | its |
| Olympus | 1919 | Japan | its |
| Pentax | 1919 | Japan | its |
| Sony | 1946 | Japan | own/Zeiss |
Oddly enough, all Japanese. It’s a shame that in Russia they don’t want to make cameras (as well as everything else: from computers, to socks and toilet bowls)... The St. Petersburg company LOMO, well-known in the USSR, which produced good cameras and first-class optics, now takes only defense orders - optics for weapon sights, and microscopes - anything, but not consumer goods. Other Russian enterprises suffered the same sad fate. Cameras have sunk into oblivion Zenit, FED, Kyiv, Zorkiy and legendary for the mass buyer Change 8m, Lomo and many others. On the LOMO website they proudly wrote that they had found the courage to abandon the production of unpromising products... In light of the fact that Nikon has been producing similar products for many years, has its own glass factories, unique developments in the field of glass clearing, production of lenses and cameras, LOMO's "courageous" decision looks like a complete failure in the fight for this part of the market.
Actually, LOMO’s fault here is secondary. The entire country was faced with the choice of destroying its own production in order to sell foreign products.
Digital Camera: Taking Good Photography
What else should you pay attention to when choosing a camera? Price, manufacturer, matrix, lens aperture, focal length (zoom), megapixels, image stabilizer, rotating screen, video recording, memory card, ... Stop! All this, of course, is interesting (especially the price!), but for those who want to improve, it’s a good idea to take a closer look at the availability of manual settings. And lastly: first of all, you should be satisfied with the quality of the photo itself. This is the main thing! Many people think that by buying a more expensive camera they will improve the quality of their pictures. Manufacturers’ advertisements for the next new camera also encourage this: “Unsurpassed quality!”, “Even greater picture quality!” etc. New models come out every year (or even more often) and all this provokes the user to constantly change photographic equipment. But alas, this does not lead to interesting photos!
If you are satisfied with your previous camera, there is a good reason not to make a purchase. Don't rush to buy a new camera just because it's new!
In fact, the developers never came up with anything better (in terms of the technical quality of the image) than an old gimbal camera with sliding bellows (as in the photo on the left). Prints from photographic plates of 9 x 12 or 18 x 24 cm (centimeters!) even today are of the highest quality in terms of detail and color rendition. Exceptionally high resolution and tonal transitions in large poster photographs create an immersive effect. And now an expensive digital SLR with a “large matrix” of 36 x 24 mm (millimeters!) looks very modest, and a 23 x 15 mm SLR is completely sad. How can it compare in terms of photo quality with large (or even medium) format! Yes, yes, everything is learned by comparison...
You must, of course, understand that this only differs when printing large posters. And I don’t encourage you to look for such cameras from junk dealers for $100 (or new medium format digital cameras - for very, very big money in the store). Highest quality V large sizes, of course, good, but... We live in modern world, where mobility is important, and the camera can be easily carried in a backpack on your back, on your shoulder, or even in your shirt pocket. Even professional reporters shoot with 35mm digital SLRs. The speed of shooting and ease of use are now valued no less than the quality of the photograph itself, but this quality should suit you! Therefore, when you buy a camera, first of all look at how good the picture is (it’s better to look at it on a large computer monitor), and only then finally decide whether to buy the camera.
How to choose a camera in a store.
To begin with, you should choose a decent store :) This corresponds to a specialized salon for the sale of photographic equipment (preferably an official distributor from the manufacturer), there should be few buyers and many sellers, the staff is qualified and attentive, the choice is huge, and the prices are affordable. Okay, okay, I was joking... But you should at least strive for the best!
To choose a camera in a store you need to do 2 things.
1. find the store’s website on the Internet, preferably the store is in your region.
2. choose a camera according to the characteristics and price you need.
If you don’t know what characteristics will suit you, read this page again :)
So, you can drive up to the store, call a courier to your home, or order your purchase by delivery (if provided). I can’t comment on the last option; let’s consider buying a camera directly in the store. You can do the same with the courier!
Be sure to take a few test shots right at the counter. I have already said what is good about a digital camera as opposed to a film camera - you immediately see the result!
A good store, as a rule, will satisfy the request to look at photographs on a large monitor (it is better to come with your laptop), enlarge them, and evaluate the details. Sometimes they let you shoot a test target to check the focus of the SLR camera lens. If there are few people in the store, the sellers are free, and they refuse to even turn on the camera (like the battery is low, there are no batteries, etc., etc.), then this is a bad store. If there are a lot of people, the seller is running around, fussing, and doesn’t have enough time for everyone - most likely, this is also a bad store :)
The camera should be brought to you in a package, and not taken from the display case. The packaging must be without mechanical damage, the inscriptions are readable, the picture is clear. Examine the camera. There should be no scratches, cracks or abrasions on it. When you turn it on, pay attention to the number of frames captured. If the number is greater than zero, and you weren’t the one taking the photo, then the camera has already been used. It will help if the seller forgets to format the memory card... Sellers are people too, nothing human is alien to them :)
Carefully inspect the front lens of the lens (and if it is removable, then the back one). To do this, it is better to take a microscope and a magnifying glass with you; you should not be shy. If abrasions, scratches, fingerprints, even specks of dust are visible on the lens, it is better to ask the seller to replace the lens (or the camera along with the lens). Or politely hand it back to the courier: “goodbye, sir.” There is no point in starting your purchase by cleaning your optics.
Further. When the purchased camera is packed, check the contents. Of course, it can be different, but the kit, as a rule, includes the camera itself, a battery (or batteries), a USB cord, a charger, a shoulder strap, instructions, a software disc, a branded warranty card and a bunch of unnecessary advertising papers. Look at everything carefully.
You can throw away the advertising junk, but it’s better to check that the warranty card is filled out correctly. There should be a model name, store stamp, date of sale, seller's signature and serial number of the product. Find out at what address warranty service is performed, who is responsible for the warranty - the store or the manufacturer. By the way, it is better to study the terms of the guarantee before paying. When leaving the store, don’t forget to take your receipt, and most importantly, your camera!
Care when purchasing will save you from possible troubles.
And the troubles may be as follows.
The consumer does NOT have the right to return the camera he purchased. of proper quality within 14 days from the date of purchase.
Photographic equipment is a “technically complex household product for which warranty periods are established,” and therefore cannot be returned or exchanged for a similar product, since it is subject to the law on the protection of consumer rights (as amended by RF Government Decrees dated October 20, 1998 No. 1222, dated 02/06/2002 N 81) on non-food products of good quality that cannot be returned or exchanged for a similar product.
If you find defects in the purchased camera during the warranty period, then such product is first sent to the company's Service Center to obtain an opinion on the condition of the product. If the diagnostics reveal a manufacturing defect, then you have the right to refuse the purchase and demand a refund of the amount paid, or make a demand for replacement with photographic equipment of the same model, or with the same product of a different model, but with a recalculation of the purchase price. What if it doesn’t show up? :-)
You can find out your consumer rights if defects are found in a product.
For clarification, interpretation (and even more so enforcement!) of current laws, please do not contact me, I am not a lawyer or a prosecutor :-)
Camera - care and storage
A camera today is a precise optical-mechanical device, stuffed with electronics without shame or conscience.
Therefore, treat it with care and kindness, keep it clean, protect it from shock, dust, dampness and sudden temperature changes. Store it in a closed bag or case, making sure to cover the lens with a cap.
You can learn more about storing, cleaning and caring for your camera on the page Cleaning your camera.
Good choice and good photos everyone!
