How to understand that your fish has died. How to determine if aquarium fish are pregnant Decreased swimming activity

Guppies are beautiful freshwater fish. It is hardly possible to find another breed of fish that has remained loyal to both beginning and experienced aquarists for several decades. The phenomenon is explained not only by the ease of maintenance and unpretentiousness in nutrition, but also by the huge variety of colors, shapes of fins, interesting features breeding.

Guppies have strong sexual dimorphism. The male, unlike the female, has a more graceful physique, elongated fins and is more intensely colored. Guppies reach sexual maturity at the age of 3-4 months. Housing conditions have a significant impact on the reproductive functions and maturation of fish. An increase in water temperature by 2-3 degrees leads to faster metabolism and earlier puberty in guppies.

Some experts warn that stimulation methods such as water changes and increasing water temperature are only needed if labor is difficult or occurs prematurely. A decrease in temperature can significantly slow down not only the development of the reproductive system, but also lead to lethargy, decreased activity, and illness.

These cute fish are viviparous, or rather oviparous. In them, fertilization occurs internally, and fertilized eggs also develop in the female's abdomen. From a single mating, she can produce several groups of fry, so it is necessary to notice the pregnancy in time and place the female in a spawning tank so that other fish or the parents themselves do not eat the babies.

It is necessary to observe “mating courtship” so that one female is not chosen by several males, which will have a bad effect on the condition of the expectant mother and the quality of the offspring. Therefore, the ideal option is a pair of guppies that need to be isolated.

Readiness of fish for fertilization

When breeding purebred guppies or engaging in selection, it is necessary to strictly monitor the crossing of fish and correctly form pairs. And to do this, you need to determine in time the guppies’ readiness for mating.

A sign of readiness for the mating process in guppies is courtship. The male begins to “chase” the chosen one, pressing against her side with his anal fin. At this point, the aquarist must isolate the couple, since the fertilization process has already begun. In the future, placing a pregnant female in a separate vessel can be dangerous for her and her offspring, since she becomes very sensitive to changes in environmental characteristics.

These unpretentious fish can reproduce in a small container, but how better conditions, the more healthy and large offspring you can get. The “maternity hospital” should have enough space for 2 guppies. Experienced aquarists claim that from the moment the couple is isolated, the female’s pregnancy can be counted. Very rarely, a male may need 2-4 days for fertilization.

Depending on age, number of previous marks, water temperature, type of food and other characteristics, the duration of the gestation period can vary from 30 to 60 days. Normally, the period is 30 ± 5 days. A reduction or increase in gestational age may indicate a violation of the conditions of detention or problems with the health of the fish. The interval between litters can be 1-2 months.

A special feature of the livebearers is that the mark is extended over time. A fertilized fish can “give birth” to fry in groups with a time gap between births. Sometimes another male mates with the female who gave birth, and in the next generation babies will appear from both males.

Fertilization process

Sperm are introduced into the female's genital opening using the gonopodium. The formation of the copulation organ begins during puberty. Before this, there are no differences in the structure of the anal fin of the female and the male. With the onset of puberty, the rays in cross-section resemble a triangle, and later a tube.

The tube, equipped with muscle fibers, rises or falls, which facilitates the introduction of spermatophores - “packets” of sperm into the female’s body. They are partially spent on fertilizing part of the eggs, and a certain amount of seed material is stored inside the reproductive organs of the female for several months. In guppies, as a result of one insemination, from 5-6 to 11 marks often occur.

When the female is completely ready to mate, she releases environment a special secret that attracts males to her. They also have a chemical effect on the mating behavior of females. Copulin secreted by the gonads of males forces the female to take a position that is most convenient for inserting the gonopodium into the genital opening. The female's swimming in an inclined position is another sign of her readiness for copulation.

But such chemical “markers” of readiness for procreation do not replace physical stimulation. The male begins a courtship dance around the female, spreading his fins and sparkling with the bright color of his body, he quickly rushes around the chosen one. Several males can “chase” a female at once.

Interestingly, each male has his own dance, which he repeats in great detail during each mating. This mating ritual is enshrined in the genetic memory of males. If he does not “court,” the female will not allow the male to approach her, despite the chemical marks.

The female also chooses a “gentleman” based on the brightness of the color and the length of the fins. The winners are males with red coloring or red spots and long fins. They grow in males throughout their lives and indicate longevity and good health. These qualities are desirable in offspring. Thus, information about his viability as the father of numerous offspring is “encoded” in the male’s appearance.

Signs of pregnancy

By observing the behavior and appearance of the female, you can determine whether she is pregnant. Experienced aquarists note that before the appearance external signs During pregnancy, changes occur in the behavior and appetite of the female. 1.5 weeks before giving birth, there is a sharp increase in the fish’s appetite, so inexperienced guppy owners attribute the rounded abdomen to overeating.

But if you carefully monitor the female’s condition, you will notice that her tummy is getting bigger. Unlike an overfed fish, the belly is enlarged not only in the lower part, but also on the sides. When viewed from above, the rounded sides of the fish are visible. The closer to birth, the “squarer” the abdomen is, and a “prenatal” or maturity spot appears in the area of ​​the anal fin. It can be dark brown, yellowish ocher or black. Through the stretched skin of the abdomen you can see the “grain” of the spot, the so-called “eyes of the fry.”

A few hours before giving birth, the abdomen is already so large that a noticeable hollow forms between the chest and abdomen. A bulge forms in the area of ​​the anal fin. Its appearance signals that there is about a day left before the fry appear. It is worth noting that the degree of severity of the “square” abdomen and “prenatal spot” stage in some varieties of guppies is less pronounced, but the anal bulge must certainly be present.

Before giving birth, the behavior of the fish also changes. She begins to look for shelter or tries to hide among the plants. This is especially noticeable in a community aquarium - the males begin to chase the female, but she hides from them. Features are also observed in the movements - the fish hangs motionless at the surface of the water or in the middle layers, it lowers its tail.

When contractions occur, you may notice trembling of the muscles in the anal area and trembling of the caudal fin. Childbirth lasts from 3 to 5 hours. Sometimes the process stretches to 5-7 days. The number of fry in a tag depends on the size, age of the fish and the number of previous births. A first-born mother can give birth to 15-25 babies, and with repeated births their number increases. There is a recorded case where a guppy gave birth to 180 fry in one mark.

The health of the fry and female depends on:

• living conditions – heat causes premature birth and the appearance of non-viable offspring;
• food – live food contributes to the normal formation of fry and the maintenance of pregnancy. When a pregnant female is fed dry food, the fry may experience scoliosis;
• the presence of one or more males - they exhaust the female.

Sometimes a young and healthy female cannot give birth. To stimulate labor, replace settled fresh water, increase the temperature to 28-30°C, or add a young male before spawning.

Guppy pregnancy video

Caring for fry and female

After the female has fry, she must be removed or the fry placed in a container for rearing. The fry are active and immediately begin to look for shelter. Their survival depends on this, since guppies have a complete absence of parental instinct. The female perceives large fry as prey. Therefore, pebbles, artificial or live plants are placed at the bottom of the spawning tank - everything that the kids can use as shelter.

An interesting feature of guppies is that they are hermaphrodites - individuals in which the genital organs of both sexes are developed. Self-fertilization is possible in such fish. In addition, spontaneous transformation of a female, even one that has already spawned, into a male occurs. Much less often, a male turns into a female.

Guppies are interesting in terms of breeding. Behind short period they can produce several groups of fry, which is very convenient for selection. To get healthy purebred offspring, you need to know all the intricacies of breeding these amazing fish.

Live and frozen food is suitable as food. In this matter, bettas are not picky fish. Some aquarists, when there is a shortage of food, feed washed earthworms.

Just keep in mind that no pieces of food should accumulate at the bottom of the aquarium, however, this rule applies to all types of fish.

Video on the topic

The aquarium fish cockerel has a fighting character. It is important to know what conditions of maintenance and what care these charming creatures of nature need. You also need to know about the compatibility of these fish with representatives of their own and other breeds.

The aquarium betta fish has several names. It is called a lively cockerel, a Siamese cockerel. And that's why. After all, this is a predatory fighting fish that can stand up for itself. The beauty and variety of colors of the various subspecies are amazing, and keeping such specimens is quite simple. Therefore, more and more aquarists want to have this aquatic resident.

Home of the aquarium betta

This representative of the fauna lives in fresh water bodies of Thailand, Malaysia, and Vietnam. He loves standing warm water.

Local residents fell in love with these cute fish not only because of their beauty. People have noticed that the males of this breed are very lively. Therefore, the Thais began to organize fights with the participation of Siamese cockerels. For some, this business became a source of income, since the bets were monetary.

Little by little about the wonderful inhabitants depths of the sea learned in other countries. They began to be exported to France and Germany, then they appeared in other countries.

Description of the breed

Cockerels can be one, two or even three colors. Some specimens are mother-of-pearl, and their scales shimmer beautifully.

Aquarium bettas are classified by the type of fins they have. Therefore, there are the following names for these inhabitants of the deep sea:

• semilunar;
• crown tail;
• veiltail;
• short-tailed;
• double tail.

1. Lunar - tricolor. Its body is blue, and its fins and tail are blue, red and white.
2. The crown tail has fins and a tail that are similar to the emperor's headdress. The color of the fish is appropriate - red, because a royal person should be bright and memorable.
3. Veiltail looks like goldfish, has this color. And her delicate fins and tail are like a veil - they are just as beautiful, light and transparent.
4. It’s not for nothing that the short-tailed one is named that way. If we compare it with other representatives of aquarium bettas, then this subspecies has the shortest tail. This part of the fish, like the others, is very attractive. The tail looks like an open fan of a crimson hue with a white edge.
5. The double tail has a very rich body part, as well as lush long fins. The fish has a bright blue-red color.

Interestingly, some of these fish have chameleon abilities. Depending on the mood and conditions, these swimming animals can change color. So, when the female is “dating”, her coloring becomes brighter. The same applies to fish that are aggressive or scared.

When the bettas find themselves in a familiar environment in a normal state, their color becomes the same. Therefore, if at home care your aquarium bettas have changed the brightness of their color, which means that something does not suit them. And if it is a female, perhaps she will soon begin to spawn.

The male is larger than the female and has more bright color. To distinguish representatives of different sexes, you need to look at their fins. In the male they are longer.

The average lifespan of this fighting fish is 3 years. But when good care they can live longer.

1. One of important factors their content is the water temperature. It should be at 26-29 degrees with a plus sign. If the water is cooler, pets may get sick. To prevent this, be sure to install a special thermometer in the aquarium and periodically monitor the water temperature.
2. As for water, these unpretentious inhabitants of the deep sea will feel fine in ordinary water poured from a tap. But first you need to defend it. You cannot use distilled water. This contains bacteria that can harm the bettas.
3. These fish love soft water with a neutral acidity level. If your water is hard, then first change it using a special conditioner that is designed to soften water.
4. They need to change it periodically. In an aquarium with a capacity of more than 100 liters, once a week a fifth of the water is poured out and new water is added. If the fish house is smaller, then a third of the liquid contents of the aquarium are replaced every 3 days. If your bettas suddenly change color and begin to show aggression, then this may be a reaction to changing the water. Don't worry, it will go away with time.
5. Keep the fish house clean, periodically remove food debris and other contaminants.

After you bring the fish home, you need to relieve them of the effects of the stress they suffered and soften their adaptation. To do this, use medicinal granules designed specifically for such situations.

Install the fish house where it is warm and there is not very bright natural light. Moreover, direct rays of the sun should not enter the aquarium. Cockerels like short daylight hours - no more than 8 hours, and artificial lighting will be most optimal for them.

Although some sellers in pet stores claim that these unpretentious fish can live even in a glass of water, this is not true. The minimum volume of the aquarium should be 3 liters. But if you want your new pets to feel great, then use an aquarium with a capacity of 5 to 10 liters for one individual.

Here the cockerel will be able to swim comfortably, since in such open spaces you can turn around. A filter and various aquarium plants will fit here. You can decorate the space with driftwood, stones, and arrange beautiful grottoes here.

Do not fill the fish house to the brim with water. Leave a space of at least 8-10 cm at the top.

This individual not only breathes in water, it also swallows air from the surface of the water surface. The fish will simply suffocate if it does not have access to this oxygen. But since the cockerel is very thermophilic, the air should be warm. Therefore, the aquarium is usually covered with a lid, and a surface space of 10 cm allows these beautiful representatives of wildlife to receive enough oxygen.

It will also be released by plants. You can breed unpretentious specimens in an aquarium, such as:

• hornwort;
• cryptocorynes;
• Vallisneria.

Cockerels are unpretentious in food. They can eat dry and live food. The latter includes: dry bloodworms, brine shrimp.

The aquarist must develop a diet for pets. After all, each representative of aquatic nature has its own gastronomic preferences. Some cockerels will eat with great appetite food with a high content of plant ingredients, while others prefer food with a good protein content.

But the diet of these sea ​​creatures should not be monotonous. This should include both live and dry food. When purchasing dry ones, you need to pay attention to the date of manufacture and shelf life. It is better to buy food for bettas in closed containers, since loose food may contain pathogenic flora.

Compatibility of aquarium bettas

These fish have intraspecific aggression. Each representative of this breed vigilantly guards its territory. Therefore, keeping two males in one aquarium is impossible. The dominant male will try to kill the weaker one. Sometimes these fish can show aggression even towards spawning females if they do not like them. Therefore, it is better to keep one betta in one aquarium. If you have a spacious house for fish, then it is possible to place 2 fish here, but to delimit their territories.

In addition to such intraspecific aggression, Siamese bettas can spread it to other smaller, clumsy fish. You can add nimble representatives to their aquarium underwater world, such as:

• Corydoras (speckled catfish);
• Molinesium;
• swordtails;
• platy.

But who does this fighting fish not get along with:

• goldfish;
• cichlids;
• others to labyrinth fish.

Also, snails should not be introduced into the aquarium with your new charges. They will tear off the whiskers of large ones, and simply eat small ones.

Also, when thinking about who to put in an aquarium with cockerels, consider whether the conditions of detention and other parameters of various representatives of the water depths are similar.

This is how they are aquarium fish cockerels. As you understand, the maintenance of these individuals is quite simple. The main thing is to provide them with good water at a comfortable temperature, take into account what neighborhood they don’t like or dislike, and feed them correctly.

In response to minimal care, you will make wonderful friends who will delight you with their appearance and perky character.

Perhaps you saw that your aquarium fish floating on its side or that she managed to jump out of the aquarium. Despite the fact that the natural first reaction may be grief and even an attempt to throw away the body of the fish, it may still be alive. You can determine whether this is true by checking the vital signs of the fish, and then take further measures in relation to the dying or already dead fish, or solve the problems of the fish that just seemed dead to you.

Steps

Checking for vital signs of fish

Try catching a fish with a net. Watch for signs of resistance from the fish as you try to hook its body with the net. If the fish is just sleeping, it will wake up and try to escape from the net. Otherwise, the fish may be dead or very sick.

Pay attention to your breathing. Most fish species need to have their gills checked. If they don't move, the fish doesn't breathe. But bettas and other labyrinth fish breathe through their mouths. If your fish belongs to this family, pay attention to the expansion and contraction of its body.

Check the condition of the fish's eyes. Look at the eyes as a whole. If they fall, then the fish has died or is dying. Look for cloudy pupils, which is also a sign of death for most aquarium fish.

Examine the scales of the fish. This must be done if the fish has jumped out of the aquarium. Notice the cracked skin as you lift the fish. Feel her body to see if it is dry. These signs are characteristic only of dead fish.

If possible, remove dead fish from the aquarium. Use a net to catch the dead fish. If you can't find her body, don't worry. The body of one dead fish itself will not harm the rest of the fish and will decompose naturally.

Don't wash it off dead fish down the drain if wastewater go out into bodies of water. Even a dead fish that finds itself in a non-native habitat can harm the natural inhabitants of a reservoir. Throw the fish's body into the trash or bury it in the ground. At the same time, if the fish is large enough, it is best to bury it. However, it would be a good idea to check your local laws to see if such actions are permitted on your part.

Solving possible problems

Cure constipation with split peas. Constipation causes fish to swim on their sides. Split peas (any variety) contain enough fiber to aid digestion. If your fish has not had a bowel movement for several days, start giving it two or three fresh or thawed peas every day. The peas can be crushed first or simply allowed to sink to the bottom of the aquarium.

• Avoid using canned peas as they contain salt and spices that can be harmful to your fish.
• Soften the peas before feeding them to the fish. To do this, you can boil it for one minute on the stove in filtered water. Remove the peas from the pan and let them cool. Do not use a microwave oven to cook peas as it may destroy important nutrients.
• Using your fingers, remove the skin from the peas. Just remember to wash your hands first!
• Cut the peas into small pieces. Cut them in half first if this did not happen naturally when you removed the pea shells. Then cut the peas into quarters. If you have small fish, cut the peas even smaller.

1. If necessary, reduce the amount of feeding. If the fish is not constipated, then it could simply have overeaten. Overeating causes bloating and causes the fish to swim on its side. If a side-swimming fish has recently had a bowel movement, simply do not feed it for the next three to four days.

Aquarium fish are wonderful pets that do not require extensive care. They are distinguished by a wide variety of types and colors, and an aquarium can adequately decorate any home. However, sometimes fish are susceptible to stress and illness. Proper care of your fish and aquarium and the ability to recognize warning signs early will help you keep your pets healthy and cope with possible problems.

Steps

Part 1

Watch the fish. Pay attention to how they swim, breathe, eat, and interact with other aquarium inhabitants. Know what the norm is so you can recognize deviations from it. Healthy fish have a good appetite and actively swim in the aquarium.

Find out about various types aquarium fish. For each type of fish healthy life Certain aquarium sizes, temperatures, care, equipment and food are required. Freshwater and sea ​​fish require various conditions content.

Make sure your fish are not stressed. The best way Keeping your fish healthy means providing them with conditions that do not cause stress. Stress weakens the fish's immune system, which can cause them to get sick. Prevent stress proper care and care to protect your pets from various diseases.

• Keep an eye on your aquarium and do partial water changes regularly. Change about a quarter of the water in the aquarium every two weeks.
• Give your fish nutritious and varied food. Most fish remain healthy and even thrive when fed processed food in the form of flakes or pellets. Diversify your pet's diet to ensure they get extra nutrients and dietary fiber by feeding them frozen or dried red worms, live or frozen plankton, and some vegetables.
• Don't overfeed your fish. Give the fish as much as they can eat in three minutes. Excess food will not only pollute the water, but will also negatively affect the health of the fish.
• Check that the filtration system is working effectively. Filters remove toxins such as ammonia and nitrites from water.
• Make sure your fish have enough space to live comfortably. Do not overpopulate the aquarium. Observe next rule: for every 2.5 centimeters of fish length there should be at least 4 liters of water.
• Place in one aquarium fish species that get along well with each other. You don't want the fish to compete with each other, fight and eat each other. A peaceful fish will experience stress if it is introduced to aggressive species or those that use a completely different sign language to communicate.

1. Monitor the water temperature in the aquarium. The temperature must correspond to the needs of this type of fish. Too cold or warm water will cause stress in the fish. For example, goldfish prefer temperatures no higher than 21°C, while most tropical fish species require temperatures between 23-26°C.

2. Buy your fish from a reputable pet store. If the fish lived in a crowded and dirty aquarium, then they were stressed all the time, and when they move into your aquarium, they can infect other fish with diseases. It's better to spend a little O a larger amount for healthy fish and be sure that they will not die within the next month.

   • In a store, fish should live in clean aquarium, be active, have bright color and don't feel stressed.
   • The pet store must have a certificate for the fish it sells and provide a full refund if the fish dies within a few days of purchase.
   • Sellers must know everything they need to know about the fish they sell, as well as the rules for caring for the aquarium, its size, inhabitants, diseases, and so on.
   • As a rule, it is better to go to a store that specializes in aquariums and aquarium fish.

3. Cure other diseases. You can try to combat the symptoms using the above methods. Often, more frequent water changes and careful aquarium care can get rid of the disease within a few days or weeks.

   • If your fish has a swollen belly, it may suffer from constipation. In this case, try using frozen peas. Peel it, defrost it and cut it into tiny pieces. Give a few pieces to the fish, then do not feed it for several days. Instead of peas, you can give your fish fresh, frozen or dried daphnia.

We almost always correctly determine whether a person close to us feels good or bad, whether he is healthy or sick. This is noticeable in the change in his behavior, appearance, obvious signs of the disease. It is also possible to distinguish a sick fish from a healthy one. To do this, you need to know exactly what you should pay attention to first.

Every self-respecting aquarist should determine the health status of a fish. Ideally, this knowledge should be obtained before adding ornamental fish to your aquarium.

Both the success of the first experience of keeping representatives of aquatic fauna and the state of the existing home aquarium world depend on this.

Indeed, you only have to make one mistake when buying a new fish, and a sick specimen can infect the pets already living in your aquarium.

And selling unhealthy fish in pet stores is not that uncommon.

Many novice aquarists think that it is very difficult to distinguish a healthy fish from a sick one, that this ability comes only with experience, after passing difficult path trial and error.

Of course, experience (often negative) contributes to the acquisition of knowledge, but even a beginner is very likely able to determine the health status of an ornamental fish. If, of course, he studies some useful information and will pay close attention to certain signs.

Behavior and appearance are the main criteria by which you can find out about the condition of any fish. Exactly the same as in humans.

Signs of Unhealthy Behavior

Like people, fish different types differ in their temperament. One species is characterized by hyperactivity, while others most often behave calmly and even phlegmatically. But all healthy individuals exhibit vital activity, their inherent species-specific behavior, and respond well to external stimuli (loud sounds, bright light).

• Frequent breathing is also a sign of the disease. Even if the aquarium has a normal air supply that supplies enough air to the water, a pet tries to constantly swim near the surface of the water. This course of action clearly indicates a health disorder.

• One of the signs is precisely non-standard behavior, when the fish is passive all the time or has poor coordination of movements. It can often lie motionless on the ground or constantly hide in thickets of ornamental vegetation, as if hiding from prying eyes.

• Behavior during feeding is another way to distinguish healthy fish from sick ones, since lack of appetite or complete refusal of food indicates some kind of disorder in the body.

• If fish rub their whole bodies against the decorative elements of the internal landscape of the aquarium, then this also indicates that not everything is all right with them. But here it should be borne in mind that for some species this behavior is considered the norm. Especially when they are full.

Appearance: signs of illness

Knowing in advance what a healthy fish should look like, you can with a high degree of confidence determine its well-being based on its body shape. An individual that is too thin or, on the contrary, too fat raises legitimate suspicion. The only exception is the female before spawning, when her tummy swells.

Body

There should be no bumps, ulcers or unusual bulges on the body of a healthy fish, and the scales should always be smooth and shiny. All scales fit tightly to each other. But if the scales are protruding or there are gaps or wounds in the scaly cover, then you should not buy such a specimen.

A sticky and cloudy coating on the body also signals deviations from the normal state.

Gills

The health status of the animal is easily determined by the appearance of the gills. In a healthy fish, the gill covers should open and close tightly during breathing. The gills are swollen, their lids do not close completely - this is a clear sign presence of disease. Just like the very reddened gills that occur with poisoning with ammonia compounds.

Eyes and fins

The eyes can tell a lot. A healthy fish should have perfectly round eyes and a clear eye color. But cloudy eyes indicate that her condition is abnormal.

A healthy individual has even, straightened fins. Broken, frayed fins with red veins (if you look at the light) belong to a sick fish.

By the type of excrement, you can also distinguish a healthy specimen from a sick one. In a healthy individual they are short, in a patient they can be long and stretchy.

Quarantine

Of course, even if you paid attention to the presence or absence of all these signs, no one can give an absolute guarantee of the health of the newly purchased fish. The fact is that some diseases have a certain incubation period and appear at a certain time. It happens that at the time of purchase the disease has not yet manifested itself.

Well, if the fish starts to hurt in your home aquarium, then you can accurately determine its condition. Immediately isolate her (before she infects all her neighbors, if the disease is infectious) and begin treatment.