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Lake Balkhash why the water is salty and fresh. Ancient oven in review

Many travelers have already visited the architectural sights of Kazakhstan, which Astana, Almaty and other cities of the country are rich in, but its natural landscapes are not inferior to them. Steppes, deserts, meadows, mountain ranges and lakes form unique picturesque pictures and natural complexes. In Kazakhstan, the second largest non-drying body of water after the Caspian Sea is Lake Balkhash. It is located in the east of the republic. Lake Balkhash serves as the main natural attraction of the country and a great asset of the Kazakh people. Currently, many tourists try to see Lake Balkhash when they visit Kazakhstan.

Balkhash is a semi-freshwater endorheic lake, the second largest after the Caspian Sea, a salty, non-drying lake. It ranks fourteenth in the list of the largest lakes in the world. It is interesting that Balkhash is located on the territory of three regions of Kazakhstan - Almaty, Karaganda and Zhambyl. Lake Balkhash looks like a long crescent. Its waters have amazing fact. The lake is divided into two parts by a narrow strait, the water in which is different in chemical composition. In the west of the lake the water is almost fresh, and in the east it is salty. This is the unique composition of water.

The lake is located in the Balkhash-Alakol basin at an altitude of 340 m above sea level. The length of the reservoir is 605 km, its width in the east is from 9-19 km, in the west – 74 km. The area of the lake is 16.4 thousand square meters. km. Nai great depth is 26 m.

The word “Balkhash” arose from the word “balkas”, which from the Kazakh, Tatar and Altai languages means “tussocks in a swamp”, “swampy area covered with hummocks”.

Legend

According to the legend about the origin of the lake, the wealthy sorcerer Balkhash had a beautiful daughter Ili. When the time came to marry her off, Balkhash announced that he would give Ili only to the strongest, handsomest and richest. Among the arriving suitors were two sons of the Chinese emperor with caravans filled with expensive goods; sons of the Mongol Khan with horses and silver; and young Bukharan merchants with ivory items and carpets. But among the applicants there was also the poor shepherd Karatal, with whom the girl immediately fell in love.

After the competition, which Karatal won, Balkhash kicked him out. But at night Ili ran away from home and rode off with her chosen one from her father. Balkhash, having learned about his daughter’s escape, cast a spell on the young people, and they turned into two rivers that swiftly carry their waters from the mountains. And to ensure that these rivers never connected, Balkhash fell between them and became a lake.

Story

The first data about Lake Balkhash was found in Chinese written sources. This is explained by the fact that the Chinese were the only advanced civilization that lives nearby and has the opportunity to get to know this area. They called the region west of the Great Wall of China "Xi-Yu", which means "Western Region". They knew about its existence already in 126 BC. By 607, the Chinese had already drawn up maps of 44 countries that were located in Central Asia at that time. But these descriptions have not survived to this day.

According to some sources, Lake Balkhash was known to the Chinese under the name “Si-Hai”, i.e. “Western Sea”. It is marked under this name on the 1855 atlas. During the same period, the lake had another name, given to it by the Kalmyks and Dzungars “Balkhash-Nor” (“Lake Balkhash”). And eastern peoples, such as the Turks and Mongols, who designated in white all geographical objects to the west of their homes, called it “Ak-Dengiz” (“White Sea”). And after the borders of their countries moved to the west, the lake became “blue” (eastern) - “Kukcha-Dengiz”. The Kazakhs called the lake “Tengiz”, which means “Sea”.

In the 18th century, the lake was marked on several maps: on a map of 1716, which was published by the Swedish officer Renat, and on a Russian map, which was compiled by Captain Stralenberg in 1730.

During the reign of the Chinese Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the lake extended along the northern border of the Chinese state. In 1864, in accordance with the Russian-Chinese agreement regarding the northwestern border, Balkhash and the adjacent territories became part of the Russian Empire.

In 1903-1904, the lake and adjacent territories were studied by the expedition of L.S. Berg. As a result, it was established that Balkhash is located outside the boundaries of the Aral-Caspian basin, and that they were never united in their geological past. It is interesting that Berg, while studying the reservoir, came to the conclusion that the lake is not shrinking and the water in it is fresh. He also noted that there was a period when Balkhash was completely dry, but then it was filled with water again, and since that time its water has not yet become salty.

Currently, Balkhash is attracting everyone's attention due to the discovery made by helicopter pilots. While flying over the isthmus that divides the lake into salty and fresh water areas, they discovered the outline of protective ramparts with watchtowers. Another confirmation has emerged that a thousand years ago, on the site of the current lake, there were two autonomous ones. Today you can wade across this isthmus of the lake. The city found at the bottom was the center of the Great silk road to Sary-Arka.

Climate The surrounding area of Balkhash is considered deserted. average temperature July is +30 C, January - about -14 C. The dry climate, winds and temperature lead to a high rate of water evaporation - in cool years the norm is 950 mm, and in dry years it reaches up to 1200 mm. Balkhash is a warm, well-heated lake. The water temperature on its surface ranges from 0 C in December to +28 C in July. The average annual temperature of the western part of the lake is +10 C, the eastern part is +9 C. Every year the lake freezes, and there is usually ice here from November to early April, and the deglaciation in the east occurs with a delay of 10-15 days.

Flora and fauna

The lake is the habitat of great cormorants, pheasants, teals, egrets and golden eagles. Of the 120 species of birds, 12 are listed in the Red Book, including pink and Dalmatian pelicans, whooper swan, spoonbill and white-tailed eagle.

Balkhash has a rich fauna, but since the 1970s, water quality began to deteriorate, which caused a decline species diversity fauna in the lake. Before this, it was home to about 20 species of fish. Now fishing in the Balkhash region is possible for such types of fish as carp, catfish, pike perch, asp, roach, perch, crucian carp, bream and others.

On the shores of the lake you can find plants such as turanga, willow, and cereals - southern cattail, common reed and several types of reeds. You can see wild boars in the reed thickets.

Tourism

Vacationers on the lake are offered different types pastime. Thus, holiday homes have all the conditions for an excellent holiday, clean water is suitable for swimming, and you can sunbathe on the beach. The area is also uniquely suitable for fishing and hunting. Arriving at Lake Balkhash, travelers discover its charming nature, unusual flora and fauna and other beauties. Since this area is considered an excellent recreational center, it will provide positive energy.

Recreation centers on the lake provide the opportunity to use natural healing factors for human health. Lake salt and mud, which are found in springs near the reservoir, have special properties. Swimming in clean water And bright sun promotes recreation. A recreational industry is developing around the lake at coastal bases.

The surrounding area of the lake is divided into several dozen zones, each of which has camp sites, holiday homes and hotels. The tourist cluster has catamarans, scooters, boats, motorboats, water skis, tennis tables, sports and playgrounds. The banks and buildings are landscaped, they have dance halls, bars, restaurants, and health services are provided. Almost any sanatorium or hotel welcomes guests with children, for whom there are children's rooms and animators.

With a fishing rod on the shore of the lake you will have a high-quality holiday because the atmosphere here is calm and peaceful. Balkhash performs large deposit, where even novice fishermen will not be left without fish. People come here for fishing in spring, summer and early autumn. In April, the pre-spawning process of the famous Balkhash roach occurs. Usually the water warms up a little after winter, and you can already catch crucian carp and carp. Thus, fishing on Lake Balkhash will give real pleasure to lovers of this activity, and to those who simply want to relax in the lap of nature.

Huge opportunities are also provided for hunting enthusiasts. Here you can hunt ducks, wolves, foxes, hares, geese, pheasants, and hunting mallards and coots will give you special pleasure. Spearfishing will also be an interesting activity. In order to take part in this event there is no need for professional equipment, you just need to take your underwater gun, masks and snorkels with you. For many underwater fishermen, this is a traditional place to spend their holidays.

The list of services and specialization of camp sites, hotels, and health resorts may differ. There are places where only fishermen are welcome, and there are places where only beach holidays are possible. Therefore, before your trip, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the full list of basic and additional services and choose a vacation spot that meets all the requirements.

Lake Balkhash is an amazing body of water in Kazakhstan. Its visit will bring a lot of impressions and energize every vacationer. A variety of leisure options allow you to organize your time according to your preferences.

Traveling along Lake Balkhash and its main tributary, the Ili River, the Russian-Kazakh expedition found out whether the lake would be able to avoid an environmental disaster.

Kapchagay, Bakanas, Koskumbez. The wormwood-dusty steppe overgrown with feather grass blooms late with small poppies, purple sage pins, and pink tamarisk.

Our final goal is Lake Balkhash, we will get to it through the sands, and then along the Ili River - in the local word, Ile. The Balkhash basin stretches for 600 kilometers from west to east among poor sandy desert plains, takyrs and salt marshes. The endorheic lake is divided into two parts by the Saryesik Peninsula, which formed the narrow Uzynaral Strait. In the western, relatively shallow part of the lake the water is fresh, and in the eastern, deeper part it is brackish.

The Ili-Balkhash basin is one of the most extensive lake ecosystems on the planet, with heterogeneous relief and diversity natural conditions. To the north and northwest of the lake lies the Kazakh small hills, adjacent to the Betpak-Dala desert - the Northern Hungry Steppe. To the south lie the sands of Saryesik-Atyrau and Taukum. In the south and southeast there is the Kazakhstan-Dzungarian mountain region, the Trans-Ili and Dzungarian Alatau ridges, the Chu-Ili mountains - heavily destroyed, with flat tops.

The expeditions of Shrenk, Semenov Tien-Shansky, and Przhevalsky passed through here. In 1903, Balkhash was visited by the future head of the Geographical Society of the USSR, Lev Semenovich Berg.

“In the middle of the Ili Lowland, I felt like I was in a completely different, unique climatic plant zone,” wrote Pyotr Petrovich Semenov Tien-Shansky. – The flora and fauna had a character completely unfamiliar to me. A lot of low and tall bushes and grasses appeared in front of me.”

Ahan Myrzakhmetov, senior researcher at the Water Resources Laboratory of the Institute of Geography of Kazakhstan, is waiting for us in the night by the muddy shore or in a time-worn cauldron. Every summer, hydrologists conduct routine studies here. Ahan pulls the starter, and the boat, with its nose raised, flies with a roar along a black river thickly overgrown with reeds.

Or originates in the Central Tien Shan from the confluence of the Tekes and Kunges rivers. Numerous rivers and streams flowing from the slopes of the Dzhungar Alatau disperse and are lost in the sands; only the most significant ones carry water to Balkhash. From the southern side, Karatal, Aksu, Lepsy - and Ili flow into the lake, providing up to 80 percent of the inflow.

Ili ends with a vast delta (8 thousand square kilometers) in the shape of a triangle, the top of which is located below the village of Bakanas. In total there are two dozen around the delta settlements, no more than 100–200 families, the anthropogenic load is small. The river is divided into branches - Topar, Zhideli and a number of lake systems - Topar, Ili and others. Their water content, like the life of Balkhash itself, completely depends on Ili.

In 1970, in its middle course, in a narrow place in the channel, between high rocky banks, the Kapchagai reservoir was built. It was assumed that the reservoir and hydroelectric power station would help bring 400 thousand hectares of land into agricultural use. Filling the reservoir only halfway immediately affected the condition of the entire basin. The surface area of Balkhash has decreased by more than four thousand square kilometers, and the salinity in the fresh part has increased. Desertification of the delta began.

Lake systems were disappearing. Waterlogged areas gave way to dry areas. The lakes turned into salt marshes, and the wind carried salt dust and sand for kilometers. The drying out of the floodplains led to the disappearance of animals and birds. Reeds were replaced by salt-tolerant perennials. Balkhash almost suffered the same fate as the Aral Sea.

Once Balkhash had already dried up, but without human intervention. Natural secular fluctuations in the lake level over a thousand years were 12-14 meters, short-term - 2-4.

“Several hunters reported interesting information. According to them, Balkhash has shrunk by 2 arshins over the past 9 years. They noticed this by the retreat of water in the reeds, which in the past were covered with water, but are now completely dry... Water on the southeastern shore of the lake, since the time of the shooting in 1852, retreated 3–4 versts, i.e., no less than a verst every ten years,” wrote biologist Alexander Mikhailovich Nikolsky in 1885.

The last minimum of Balkhash occurred in the 5th–10th centuries. Then the lake split into western and eastern reaches. The surface of Balkhash was below 336 meters from sea level. In the early 1980s, the Institute of Lake Science calculated: in order for Balkhash not to dry out, its level must be above 341–342 meters. From 1984 to 1989 this figure was lower. Filling of the reservoir was stopped, and the Ili flow regime, close to natural, was restored, with a flow of at least 10.8 cubic kilometers per year to the top of the delta. This helped raise the water in the lake, but desertification and loss of biodiversity continued.

Andrey Kamenev In the 1930–1940s, pelican colonies on Balkhash numbered over a thousand nests. Today their number has decreased. Many areas on the islands and coastline have been developed by fishermen and hunters.

Field station of the Institute of Geography on the Arkhar Peninsula. Previously, hydrologists lived in a trailer; they recently rebuilt it good house with a common dining room. Bauyrzhan Zhumabekov, leading engineer of the Arhar hospital, is the owner of the house, his wife Bota cooks in the yard for the whole crowd researchers. Under their supervision, Ahan Myrzakhmetov and the funny Gulsaira and Lyazzat, engineers at the Water Resources Laboratory, study runoff losses in the Ili delta.

“Strong water” comes from Kapchagay, explains Ahan. – It’s clarified, just like clarified juice. Silt and suspended matter settle in the reservoir, like in a filter. And this biological flow nourished fertile soils. Purified water moves at a different speed, the channel is eroded, and discharge waves raise bottom sediments. The water drags debris and turbidity to the delta, clogging its channels. The delta area is shrinking. Almost half of the Topar system is gone.

Delta Ili works as a natural counter-regulator: in high-water years it accumulates water like a sponge, and in dry years it releases part of its reserves to the lake. Now, according to Ahan, the natural regime of floods has been disrupted: in the spring there is less moisture, and in the winter - more. About three cubic kilometers of water are lost in the delta every year.

Experts proposed dividing Balkhash as an extreme measure: building a dam in Uzynaral, fencing off the more important, freshwater part of the lake. Eastern Balkhash would dry out and turn into salty mud. At the meetings, the date for construction of the dam was even named - 1988. But the Kapchagai hydroelectric power station was not the only one that influenced the state of the lake, and it was impossible to calculate all the consequences.

This is a chain,” Ahan draws in the sand. – The filling of the reservoir depends on China, the filling of Ili depends on the reservoir, the level of Balkhash depends on Ili...

The river originates in China, in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region. Since the 2000s, the PRC has begun a program to develop the western territories, and water intake from the upper reaches of the Ili and Irtysh has increased several times. In the Ili basin alone, 13 reservoirs and 59 hydroelectric power plants were built; a few years ago, construction of a canal began to transfer Ili water to the western part of the desertified Tarim Basin. (However, now that water reserves have been discovered under the desert, the situation may change. But even an increase in water intake from Ili on Chinese territory by just 10–15 percent may turn out to be critical).

At the international forum "Balkhash-2000" the dehydration of the Ili-Balkhash basin was already discussed. A beautiful concept was adopted then necessary measures. One of the points is to reach an agreement with China on transboundary rivers and use water-saving technologies. In 2001, China signed an agreement with Kazakhstan on the use of transboundary rivers, within the framework of which their water relations are still regulated.

They also wanted to install the Kerbulak hydroelectric power station downstream of the Kapchagai reservoir, a counter-regulator, in order to balance the uneven discharges of the Kapchagai. The project is ready, we can build - there is no money.

Ahan puts out his cigarette in the sand. Mole crickets, similar to armored earth drills, large-headed crickets, hiding in cracks under stones during the day, praying mantises, and ant lions are crawling along the sand from everywhere towards the hospital into the light from the darkness. Hundreds of small and large moths create a winged snowstorm around the lantern. The food supply on Ili is rich.

Hedgehogs, hamsters, shrews, and birds feed on beetles and fillies. The abundance of insects is associated with the existence of twilight waders - avdotok, and nocturnal lizards - geckos. A nocturnal predator, a long-eared hedgehog, puffing like semolina, stretches out on unexpectedly long legs and quickly runs away. Jerboas look like swift little elves. If it flashes in the headlights for a second, it disappears.

The abundance of mole crickets and mole crickets along the banks attracts badgers. Wild boars come to the reed thickets to feast on locusts. Foxes and wolves find shelter in coastal tugai and lakeside reeds.

Reeds form long dense thickets along the Ili, along the banks of the channels - the “jungle of the Balkhash region”. Cormorants and herons live in the reed supports, flying past with the regularity of airplanes near Sheremetyevo. Carrion crows, various species of geese and ducks, grebes, and sandpipers nest among the fragile stems. A pelican runs noisily across the water before taking off.

Or carries cold water from glaciers; passing through the desert zone, it does not have time to warm up; high summer temperatures are moderated by the proximity of large water masses - therefore, unexpectedly, northern, boreal species, such as the black-throated loon, can be found here. Here you can also find the white-headed duck - an amazing short-winged duck with a blue beak. It is rare everywhere and is listed in the Red Book as a poorly studied species. There, in the Red Book, there are saxaul jay, sajja, bullduruk, sandgrouse, pink and Dalmatian pelicans living in colonies in the Ili delta, spoonbill, whooper swan, red-breasted goose, houbara bustard, white-tailed and long-tailed eagles.

IN post-war years in the muskrat farm (the muskrat was acclimatized on Ili in 1935), a campaign was carried out to exterminate predators and corvids - crows, magpies, marsh harriers, black kites: a reward from 50 kopecks to 5 rubles was paid for the bird's legs large predators, including the eagle. Later, the muskrat habitats were destroyed by winter floods; by the 1990s, fishing had ceased, and the number of eagles increased. Absence tall trees in the delta taught them to build nests in reed thickets.

Our boat caravan floats all the way to the expanse of Balkhash. In the channels the water is more transparent, the main current is thick, the color of green tea with milk. The delta changes every year, and even hydrologists are confused, not understanding where to take the boat - new areas of shallow water and sand deposits have formed.

A giant labyrinth of small channels, lakes, and swamps opens up. The width of some channels is such that the reeds grind along both sides of the boat, closing overhead. Obviously, somewhere here 130 years ago, Alexander Nikolsky made his observations: “Far, far to the very horizon to the south and east stretches an endless thicket of reeds. Its dark foliage with a dull noise, like the sea, is agitated by strong impulse wind. The smooth surface of small lakes shines, serving as a haven for ducks, coots and grebes.”

We approach the shore on the Shuburkunan channel. Bauyrjan's friend Zeyetulla runs a fishing base here. They grew up in a neighboring village, both were Komsomol workers. Now one is a hydrologist, and the other is a businessman.

The boars are coming, Zicken-aga?

In the fall one was taken...

What about saigas?

Rarely now. There used to be a lot of saiga,” recalls Zeyetulla. “We hunted them from a helicopter. We fly low, we see a herd, we throw a car wheel, it rolls, breaks the saiga's legs, the herd rushes about. We are picking up the wounded. They run fast, but their legs are thin...

In the early 1990s, there were 800–900 thousand saigas in Kazakhstan, in 2003 – 21 thousand. The reason for the decline in numbers was poaching; the sale of horns was an extra income for the rural population that had lost their collective farms. Saigas were taken under protection, and today there are already about 250 thousand of them in three geographically dispersed groups.

Several years ago, the World Wide Fund wildlife became concerned about the state of the delta and recognized it and the southern part of the lake as wetlands of global importance. A project arose to transform the delta into a state reserve and introduce the Amur tiger instead of the exterminated subspecies - the Caspian tiger - in the delta and on the coast. It is proposed to create a new population in cooperation with Russia, transporting tiger cubs from Far East. The first animals will be released here no earlier than 2020, “in contact with the local population... to increase the eco-tourism attractiveness of the region.” I look into the reeds, thinking how attractive it is for me to see ruby eyes glowing there in the dusk.

And finally, Balkhash. The lake is plagued by storms. Along the horizon it is surrounded by foggy white-gray pillars of clouds. We cross in a narrow place, we are accompanied by terns and laughing gulls - but soon the water becomes empty, even small waves roll in, the boat splashes its nose on their potholes, the shores are not visible, only open bluish-turbid water.

A long time ago, the Chinese called it Xi-Hai (Western Sea), the Turks and Mongols called it Ak-Dengiz (White Sea), and the Kazakhs called it Tengiz (Sea). Under the name Balkhash, the lake was marked on the Klaporte map in 1833. Hydronym means "swampy area", or "swamp with hummocks".

The southern coast of Western Balkhash from the delta to Karashagan Bay is distinguished by its rugged coastline, low sandy shores, numerous bays, shallows protruding deeply into the shore and spits protruding into the lake. Conversely, in its western, northern and southeastern parts the shores are high, rocky and relatively little indented. The deep-water zone extends along the northern and western shores, greatest depth(12.8 meters) - in Bertis Bay.

Stationary observations of the lake regime began in 1913, when the first water-measuring station was opened in Karagashan Bay (which, however, did not exist for long - until 1917). Systematic observations were resumed only in the early 1930s, at which time an expedition from the Hydrological Institute worked to justify the construction of a copper smelter on the lake.

Once Balkhash had already dried up, but without human intervention.

The Balkhashtsvetmet plant is another problem for the lake. This is an important city-forming enterprise. However, its emissions into the atmosphere, which settle on water, are destructive for nature. In 2015, several water samples were taken from Balkhash; according to environmentalists, they contained increased concentrations of copper, magnesium, and zinc. From afar, from the plain, the naked eye can see on a windless day how the city of Balkhash floats in a yellow fog, blurring its outlines.

A native of Balkhash, Alexey Grebennikov is a thorough person. An energy engineer by profession, he started out as an amateur fisherman: he bought a boat. Now Alexey is the owner of the Neptune fishing base on the shores of Eastern Balkhash. Far out in the lake, he rented a reed island without land and built a pontoon on which fishermen could live for two weeks, feeding on catfish and carp.

Once upon a time, the Ili and Balkhash deltas produced up to 300 thousand centners of fish per year; the carp catch accounted for half of its total production in the USSR. Due to salinization of waters, the area of spawning grounds has decreased. In the 1980s, thousands of tons of carp were caught in the lake; in the 2000s, the catch was limited to 60 tons.

They worry about the level of the lake,” Alexey gets angry, “but they don’t care about poaching.” They will buy a license to catch 40 tons, but 400 will be taken out!

Fishermen show us another consequence of the transboundary status of Ili: an invasion of snakehead fish passed through it and along Balkhash. This is a universal predator: it can breathe both water and air, in oral cavity- a small brush, like a catfish, behind it is a row of large teeth, and the head is covered with large scales and really looks like a snake. Locals believe that, like other evils, this one came from China and will soon destroy all Balkhash pikes.

“We’ve seen enough of Hollywood,” Alexei rejects concerns. – Delicious fish! Do you know the endemics of Balkhash? No, not carp. Marinka, barbel, sturgeon and crucian carp were found here. A branch of the Leningrad Institute of Fisheries released pike perch into Balkhash. Before this, carp and bream were released. A catfish accidentally came to us with them. The pike perch ate marinka and perch. To feed it, a roach was released into the lake. The roach ate the roe of the carp. After all, it does not always spawn, but in waves: mass spawning once every 7–10 years. Then the asp came from somewhere. Nothing. We've already started getting crustaceans here. Where? Almaty residents are catching them, someone missed...

Alexey takes us by boat to the last point of the expedition: the Uzynaral Strait. Here fresh waters lakes Balkhash meet with salty ones. The average depth is only four meters, and the width is from four to six kilometers. A slow, time-varying current directed from the mouth of the Ili towards the eastern reaches is called the water balance flow of water. It plays a significant role in salt exchange between the western and eastern parts of the lake. The salinity of Balkhash in the western part fluctuates different years from 0.7 to 1.6, in the east - 3.5–6 grams per liter.

We drop anchor and bob in the strait. The waters of Eastern Balkhash are bright blue, with a green tint, under the sun - like the wings of Persian bee-eaters nesting here in the summer. But from the boat, by eye, you can’t see the mixing of waters.

Balkhash now stands at 342.2, even though it has fallen by 54 centimeters over the past few dry years. They say that the current level, the lower limit of normal, is the result of melting glaciers. If Balkhash does become shallow, then the entire river system of southeastern Kazakhstan will collapse and rise dust storms, along with salt, will reach the upper foothills of Alatau, where glaciers will melt and cover Almaty with mudflows.

Alexey and his au pair Polina look at the fate of Balkhash with confident calm.

They've been frightening for so many years - it's drying up... And there's so much water. We still know little about Balkhash; it has some kind of second bottom, from which it will be filled if something happens. We say so.

A strong thunderstorm breaks out over Balkhash, which does not subside all night - water flies horizontally with a whistle, lightning cuts through the darkness every two seconds. The next morning the entire coastal steppe is in deep puddles, and, indeed, it seems that there is so much water that it will not go anywhere, in right moment It will miraculously appear and never run out. The steppe breathes after the rain, and the bitter smell of wormwood rises over the shore.

The unique endorheic semi-freshwater Lake Balkhash is the second largest non-drying salt lake (after the Caspian Sea) and the thirteenth on the list of the largest lakes in the world. Its uniqueness lies in the division of the water area by a narrow strait into two parts, in which the water has different chemical characteristics.

Where is Lake Balkhash located?

This very beautiful lake is located in the east of Kazakhstan. It is located on the territory of three regions - Almaty, Karaganda and Zhambyl. Lake Balkhash has the shape of a boomerang.

The strait divides the reservoir into two approximately equal parts. In its western part the water is fresh, and in the east it is salty. This composition of water is unique. Scientists believe that Lake Balkhash is a remnant of an ancient sea that was once located in the Alakol depression.

Features of the lake

Most tourists who come to Kazakhstan every year are interested in: “Where is Lake Balkhash?” Those who come to the country on a tourist package should not worry about this. Almost all excursion routes begin from this place.

All guests in Kazakhstan are told a beautiful legend about how Lake Balkhash appeared. We will tell it to you too.

In ancient times, in those places where Lake Balkhash flows its waters today, there lived a rich and powerful Bai Balkash, who was also a sorcerer. He had an only beautiful daughter. When she grew up, her father decided to marry her off, which he immediately announced to the whole world and announced a competition for applicants. Among the noble participants in the competition was the poor shepherd Karatal. It so happened that the girl fell in love with him. Or she helped her beloved young man win.

However, Balkash did not want to give his daughter to the poor guy. The young people decided to escape. The angry father cursed his obstinate daughter and turned her and her chosen one into rivers. So that they could never be together, Balkash himself rushed after them and turned into a huge lake, separating the lovers forever. The Ili River flows into Lake Balkhash, as does Karatal.

Lake Balkhash has been studied by specialists from all over the world for more than a hundred years. However, it still remains unexplored. It amazes scientists with its mystery.

Lake Balkhash, a photo of which can be seen in all tourist advertising brochures in Kazakhstan, stretches over six hundred kilometers in length, and its maximum width is seventy kilometers.

Rivers

Various rivers of Semirechye flow into this amazing lake - Ili, Aksu, Karatal, Koksu, Lepsy, Ayaguz, Tentek. The Karatal River is formed at the confluence of the Shizhe, Karoi and tributary Koksu rivers. They rapidly carry clean waters from the mountains of the Dzungarian and Trans-Ili Alatau and Tarbagatai. In the western part of the lake there is the most large river, flowing into Lake Balkhash-Ili. It makes up more than 80% of the total watercourse. In the eastern part, smaller rivers (Aksu, Karatal, Lepsy, Ayaguz) flow into the lake.

Mysteries of the lake

Scientists consider it a geographic paradox that this huge lake is located in the middle of a desert with a continental climate and yet has no drainage. There are five climatic zones in this territory. The lands near the lake are highly saline. At the same time, the vegetation here is quite diverse. The lake salt is different healing properties and is used for many diseases.

Another mysterious feature of Balkhash is unique ability sediment control. The rivers of Semirechye have high levels of clay and sand. Such conditions would ensure that the Balkhash basin would be completely filled with sediment within three centuries. But the lake is independently cleared of these elements, fenced off by river deltas that hold back the flow of sediment.

In deltas, rivers descend from the mountains and are divided into many branches and channels. Then lakes are formed that accumulate sediment. In this case, the water is completely purified to complete transparency.

Scientists were unable to find chemogenic sediments in the lake. Carbon dioxide typically forms and accumulates in deep-sea lakes due to wind-driven drift currents. Carbon dioxide in this case is a product of the decomposition of organic matter. In shallow Balkhash, constant wind mixing is recorded, so there is no carbon dioxide here.

Rest on Lake Balkhash

Today Lake Balkhash, the photo of which you see in our article, attracts tourists from near and far abroad. It should be noted that today excellent conditions for recreation have been created here. There are many recreation centers equipped with everything necessary for a comfortable pastime.

"Blue Lagoon"

This is a wonderful recreation center where anyone who wants to relax on the beach on the lake can stay. Comfortable rooms are equipped with air conditioning, refrigerators, televisions, satellite TV. Deluxe rooms have a separate bathroom, shower, and washbasin.

Many tourists note the well-organized food in the modern spacious cafe with forty seats. Here you can relax on the summer terrace in a shady alley or on the observation deck, located a few steps from the beach.

Vacationers are offered a varied menu. All dishes are prepared by chefs of the highest categories with extensive experience. At the request of guests, they can prepare dishes to order.

Recreation center "Volna"

It is located near the city of Balkhash. It is designed for 30 vacationers. The residential complex consists of five comfortable houses. They are insulated from the inside and covered with decorative panels.

2-, 3-, 4-bed cozy rooms are equipped with air conditioning and independent heating. There is a bar and a Russian bathhouse on the territory of the base. For those who come to Balkhash for fishing, the services of a guide and a boat are offered. Corporate evenings and birthdays are held at the Volna recreation center. Here you can have fun with your colleagues.

"Pearl"

This is one of the most picturesque corners on the shores of Lake Balkhash. Those who are tired of the city noise and bustle like to stay here. The recreation center "Pearl" is located 3 kilometers from the center of Balkhash.

Here you will find everything you need for comfortable rest: spacious luxury and junior suite hotel rooms, parking, restaurant and bar, magnificent banquet hall. Those interested can visit the sauna and soak up the warm sands of the beach.

Boarding house and recreation center "Aquamarine"

The boarding house and base of the same name are located in the village of Chubar-Tubek. It is very close to Lake Balkhash. There is a cafe and free parking (for guests) on site.

The boarding house has its own sand and pebble beach, which will allow you to enjoy gentle sun. There's a lot to do here aquatic species sports
At the recreation center, tourists are offered to stay in a 2-story building, in double and triple comfortable rooms.

Fishing

Lake Balkhash is very popular among fishing enthusiasts. More than 20 species of fish live here. The most common ones are:

Balkhash Marinka;
Ili Marinka;
Balkhash perch;
spotted sponge;
single-colored sponge.

The remaining species of fish that are found in Balkhash are introduced. These include thorn and carp, eastern bream and Siberian dace, tench and pike perch, osman and asp and others.

Fishing on Lake Balkhash is underway different ways. The most popular fishing is from boats. Although in some places you can quite successfully catch small carp from the shore. For more serious fish, you need to go by boat.

There are sections of the lake with significant depths relatively close to the shore. Most often these places are located near islands. Here you can catch small pike perch using a spinning rod.

The asp, which has taken root well in the lake, is the second most important fish for spinning anglers. It is caught using castmasters, spinners, and wobblers. You can count on an active bite for this fish in the fall.

Bream and carp are most often caught from boats. Although you can catch large carp from the shore using bottom gear. But, however, it does not always approach the coastline. The same can be said about bream. Usually this fish is pre-fed.

Fishing on Balkhash is no less interesting for those who like catfishing. It is also produced from boats. They catch it using bottom gear, sometimes using the quok fishing method.

You need to know that in addition to summer fishing, winter fishing is also popular on Lake Balkhash. The ice here reaches such a solid thickness that you can easily navigate it by car. Winter night fishing is especially interesting. At this time, you can see many glowing tents on the ice. Using them you can determine the place where the school of fish is located. In winter, white fish, pike perch, and local perch are well caught.

Spearfishing becomes an interesting adventure for many guests. It is important that in order to take part in this exciting entertainment, it is not necessary to have professional equipment. All you need to do is take your underwater gun, masks and snorkels with you. Most submarine fishermen began to spend their holidays on Lake Balkhash.

Fishing on Lake Balkhash will give true pleasure to fishing lovers, as well as to those who want to relax in nature.

Hunting

Hunting enthusiasts also have great opportunities here. In the area adjacent to the lake, hunting foxes, wild boars, gray duck, hares, wolves, pheasants, as well as coots and mallards.

It is assumed that Lake Balkhash was discovered before our era by the Chinese, who maintained close ties with the tribes of Central Asia. This people gave him unusual name“Si-Hai”, which in translation sounds like “Western Sea”. Over the centuries-old history of its existence, the reservoir was renamed by the Turks more than once: first to “Ak-Dengiz”, and then to “Kukcha-Dengiz”. The Kazakhs limited themselves to a simpler name - “Tengiz” (sea). The first major expeditions to these places began in the mid-18th century.

Where is Lake Balkhash located?

The location of the attraction is the east of Kazakhstan, 400 km from Karaganda. It occupies 3 regions of the country at once - Karagadin, Almaty and Zhambyl. The reservoir is surrounded by two large sand massifs. On the southern side it is surrounded by the low Chu-Ili mountains, and in the west there is a picturesque steppe with small hills. There are several cities and towns on the shore - Balkhash, Priozersk, Lepsy, Chubar-Tubek. Required coordinates: latitude – 46°32’27” s. latitude, longitude – 74°52’44” E. d.

The most convenient way to get to the place is from Karaganda and Astana. From these cities there are buses and trains to the station. Balkhash. Travel time is about 9 hours. You can't get to the shore by car; parking near the water is prohibited.

Description of the attraction

The word “Balkhash” is translated into Russian as “tussocks in the swamp.” The lake is of natural origin; it appeared as a result of the uneven subsidence of the Turanian plate and the flooding of the formed depressions, presumably in the second period Cenozoic era. It contains many small islands and two large ones - Basaral and Tasaral. When classifying Lake Balkhash as drainage or drainless, it is more correct to choose the second option, because it does not have water drainage.

The basin, according to scientists, is characterized by an uneven bottom with large differences in elevation. In the western part, between Cape Korzhyntubek and Tasaral Island, the greatest depth is 11 m. In the east, this figure increases to 27 m. On one side of the coast there are rocks 20-30 m high, and on the other they are relatively uniform, no higher than 2 m Because of this, water often goes beyond the basin. This is how many small and large bays were formed.

Balkhash ranks second after the Caspian Sea in the list of non-drying salt lakes in the world. It is also the largest in Kazakhstan.

Here are some more characteristics of the reservoir:

the total volume does not exceed 120 km²;
area is approximately 16 thousand km²;
altitude above sea level – about 300 m;
dimensions of Lake Balkhash: length - 600 km, width in the western part - up to 70 km, and in the eastern part - up to 20 km;
has 43 islands, which are becoming more numerous over the years due to lowering water levels in the basin;
the coastline is very uneven, its length is at least 2300 km;
the rivers flowing into the lake are Lepsi, Aksu, Karatal, Ayaguz and Ili;
the salinity of water in the east does not exceed 5.2%, and in the west it is fresh;
food is provided by groundwater, glaciers, snow and rain.

The fauna of the lake is not particularly diverse; only 20 species of fish live here. For industrial purposes, they catch carp, bream, pike perch and asp. But we had better luck with birds - these places are favored by about 120 species of birds, some of which are listed in the Red Book. The flora is also quite diverse, attracting botanists.

What makes this place unique?

What is interesting is that the lake consists of two basins that are radically different due to the characteristics of the water. Since they are separated by an isthmus 4 km wide, they do not touch each other. Because of this, difficulties arise in determining the type of reservoir, salty or fresh, so Lake Balkhash is classified as semi-freshwater. No less interesting is the fact that the degree of water mineralization in the two parts differs sharply.

Geographers and botanists are also surprised geographical location reservoir, after all continental climate, dry air, low precipitation and lack of runoff did not contribute to its occurrence.

Weather Features

The climate in this area is typical of deserts; it is very hot in summer, in July the air can warm up to 30° C. The water temperature is slightly lower, 20-25° C, and is generally suitable for swimming. In winter there comes a time of frosts, sharp cold snaps down to -14° C are possible. Water usually freezes already in November, and the ice melts closer to April. Its thickness can reach a meter. Due to the low rainfall, droughts are quite common here. Strong winds often blow here, causing high waves.

The origin of Lake Balkhash has its own secrets. If you believe the ancient legend, then the rich magician Balkhash once lived in these places, who really wanted to marry off his beautiful daughter. To do this, he summoned the best candidates for the girl’s heart from different parts. It should have gone to a strong, handsome and rich guy. Of course, the sons of the Chinese emperor, the Mongol Khan and Bukhara traders could not lose this opportunity. They came to visit with numerous generous gifts in the hope of good luck. But one young man, a simple shepherd, did not hesitate to come without a penny in his pocket, and, as luck would have it, it was he who pleased the bride.

Karatal, that was their name young man, took part in the battle and honestly won the battle. But the girl’s father was not happy about this and, greatly indignant, kicked him out. The bride's heart could not stand it, and at night Ili left her father's house along with her chosen one. When her father found out about the escape, he cursed both of them and they became two rivers. Their waters rushed along the slopes of the mountains, and so that they would never meet, the sorcerer fell between them. From strong excitement he turned gray and turned into this very lake.

Environmental problems of the reservoir

There is an acute problem of an active decrease in the volume of Lake Balkhash due to increased water intake from the rivers flowing into it, especially from the Ili. Its main consumer is the people of China. Environmentalists say that if this continues, the reservoir may repeat the fate of the Aral Sea, which has completely dried up. The danger is also Iron and Steel Works the city of Balkhash, whose emissions pollute the lake and cause irreparable damage to it.

Where to stay

Since the reservoir is valued for its recreational opportunities, there are many places on its shore where you can stay in comfort. Here are just a few of them:

recreation center "Swallow's Nest" in Torangalik;
city dispensary in Balkhash;
hotel complex "Pegasus";
boarding house "Gulfstream";
hotel "Pearl".

The cost of accommodation in a standard room without treatment and food is approximately 2,500 rubles per day for two. The cheapest place to stay is at tourist camps. Sanatoriums near Lake Balkhash are chosen when there are health problems.

Entertainment and leisure for guests

Fishing is very popular here, permitted at specialized bases. Among visitors there are also many who like to hunt pheasant, hare or wild duck. The season usually opens in September and lasts until winter. It is also possible to catch wild boars with a dog.

In the warm season, people come here mainly for beach holidays and scuba diving to take beautiful photos. Entertainment options include jet skis, catamarans and boats. Snowmobiling and skiing are popular in winter. On the territory of hotels and resorts guests can enjoy:

table tennis;
pool;
billiards;
horse rides;
sauna;
cinema;
bowling;
Gym;
paintball game;
cycling.

Near Lake Balkhash there is all the necessary infrastructure - a hospital, pharmacies, shops. The deserted coastline is favored by “savages” who come here with tents. Overall, this is a great place to relax!

Lake Balkhash, located in the east of Kazakhstan, is the largest body of water in the republic, stretching like a crescent for 600 kilometers. Balkhash is the only lake on the planet with water of different composition: its western part is freshwater, and its eastern part is salty. Thanks to the narrow strait and the Saryesik Peninsula, the waters of the lake do not mix.

Basin of Lake Balkhash

The salty waters of Balkhash and its mineralized hydrogen sulfide mud are healing and have a beneficial effect on human health.

An interesting legend about the appearance of the lake

The origin of Lake Balkhash has its own secrets. If you believe the ancient legend, then the rich magician Balkhash once lived in these places, who really wanted to marry off his beautiful daughter. The sorcerer Balkhash was looking for the strongest and richest groom for his daughter Or. To do this, he summoned the best candidates for the girl’s heart from different parts. It should have gone to a strong, handsome and rich guy. Of course, the sons of the Chinese emperor, the Mongol Khan and Bukhara traders could not lose this opportunity. They came to visit with numerous generous gifts in the hope of good luck. But one young man, a simple shepherd, did not hesitate to come without a penny in his pocket, and, as luck would have it, it was he who pleased the bride.

Karatal, that was the name of the young man, took part in the battle and honestly won the battle. But the girl’s father was not happy about this and, greatly indignant, kicked him out. The bride's heart could not stand it, and at night Ili left her father's house along with her chosen one. When her father found out about the escape, he cursed both of them and they became two rivers. Their waters rushed along the mountain slopes. But, not wanting the lovers to unite, even being rivers, Balkhash turned into a huge lake between them.

Lake Balkhash never ceases to amaze with its mystery - scientists still cannot explain the geographical paradox of the appearance of a semi-freshwater, drainless reservoir among the steppes, in an area of dry climate and low precipitation.

Where is Lake Balkhash located?

The location of the attraction is the east of Kazakhstan, 400 km from Karaganda. The lake occupies 3 regions of the country at once - Karagadin, Almaty and Zhambyl. The reservoir is surrounded by two large sand massifs. On the southern side it is surrounded by the low Chu-Ili mountains, and in the west there is a picturesque steppe with small hills. There are several cities and towns on the shore - Balkhash, Priozersk, Lepsy, Chubar-Tubek. Required coordinates: latitude – 46°32’27” s. latitude, longitude – 74°52’44” E. d.

The most convenient way to get to the place is from Karaganda and Astana. From these cities there are buses and trains to the station. Balkhash. Travel time is about 9 hours.

The word “Balkhash” arose from the word “balkas”, which from the Kazakh, Tatar and Altai languages means “tussocks in a swamp”, “swampy area covered with hummocks”.

The lake is of natural origin; it appeared as a result of the uneven subsidence of the Turanian plate and the flooding of the formed depressions, presumably in the second period of the Cenozoic era. It contains many small islands and two large ones - Basaral and Tasaral. When classifying Lake Balkhash as drainage or drainless, it is more correct to choose the second option, because it does not have water drainage.

Balkhash ranks second after the Caspian Sea in the list of non-drying salt lakes in the world. It is also the largest in Kazakhstan.

Lake Balkhash from space

Characteristics of the reservoir:

the total volume does not exceed 120 km²;
area is approximately 16 thousand km²;
altitude above sea level – about 300 m;
dimensions of Lake Balkhash: length - 600 km, width in the western part - up to 70 km, and in the eastern part - up to 20 km;
has 43 islands, which are becoming more numerous over the years due to lowering water levels in the basin;
the coastline is very uneven, its length is at least 2,300 km;
the rivers flowing into the lake are Lepsi, Aksu, Karatal, Ayaguz and Ili;
the salinity of water in the east does not exceed 5.2%, and in the west it is fresh;
food is supplied by groundwater, glaciers, snow and rain.

The lands of the Balkhash region are deserts and steppes, covered with stones, clay and rubble. However, some plants have adapted to survive in difficult conditions. About 60 species serve as a unique decoration of the lake. rare plants that have no roots and grow directly from the water.

The main source feeding Balkhash is the Ili River, which originates in the glaciers of the Tien Shan and flows into the reservoir from the western side. From the east, the lake is replenished by the less full-flowing rivers Karatal, Aksu, Lepsy and others.

Balkhash has no drains, the water level in the lake fluctuates significantly different time year and depends on the amount of snow in the mountains and on the intensity of evaporation from the surface of the reservoir.

The fauna of the lake is diverse; 20 species of fish live here. For industrial purposes, they catch carp, bream, pike perch and asp. These places are favored by approximately 120 species of birds, some of which are listed in the Red Book. The flora is also quite diverse, attracting botanists.

What makes this place unique?

Geographers and botanists are also surprised by the geographical location of the reservoir, because the continental climate, dry air, low rainfall and lack of drainage did not contribute to its emergence.

Weather Features

The climate in this area is typical of deserts; in summer it is very hot, in July the air can warm up to 30° C. The water temperature is slightly lower, 20-25° C, suitable for swimming. In winter there comes a time of frosts, sharp cold snaps down to -14° C are possible. Water usually freezes already in November, and the ice melts closer to April. Its thickness can reach a meter. Due to the low rainfall, droughts are quite common here. Strong winds often blow here, causing high waves.

Story

In the 18th century, the lake was marked on several maps: on a map of 1716, which was published by the Swedish officer Renat, and on a Russian map, which was compiled by Captain Stralenberg in 1730.

Currently, Balkhash is attracting everyone's attention due to the discovery made by helicopter pilots. While flying over the isthmus that divides the lake into salty and freshwater areas, they discovered the outline of protective ramparts with watchtowers. Another confirmation has emerged that a thousand years ago, on the site of the current lake, there were two autonomous ones. Today you can wade across this isthmus of the lake. The city found at the bottom was the center of the Great Silk Road to Sary-Arka.

Tourism

Arriving at Lake Balkhash, travelers discover its charming nature, unusual flora and fauna and other beauties. Since this area is considered an excellent recreational center, it will provide positive energy.

The numerous sandy beaches of Lake Balkhash are perfect for a beach holiday. You can swim in the reservoir from late May to mid-September.

Since the reservoir is valued for its recreational opportunities, there are many places on its shore where you can stay in comfort.

Recreation centers on the lake provide the opportunity to use natural healing factors for human health. Lake salt and mud, which are found in springs near the reservoir, have special properties. Swimming in clean water and bright sunshine promotes recreation. A recreational industry is developing around the lake at coastal bases.

Entertainment and leisure for guests

Fishing is very popular here, permitted at specialized bases.

You can sit with a fishing rod in specially designated areas of fishing bases in the Balkhash region, which provide guests with accommodation and necessary equipment. No fisherman, even a beginner, will leave without a good catch. Best time for fishing - spring and July-September. In April, the spawning run of the famous Balkhash roach begins. As soon as the lake warms up, crucian carp, carp, catfish and asp wake up. If you are lucky, your bait may catch a snakehead - a terrifying-looking predatory fish, very tasty and without a specific smell.

Be careful - the local fish marinka (kara-balyk) is primarily poisonous; its caviar and milt should not be eaten. Before cooking, the marinka must be thoroughly gutted and the black abdominal membranes carefully removed. The fish meat is fatty and very tasty.

Dalmatian pelican

It is allowed to hunt duck, goose, black grouse, hare, wolf, fox and pheasant in the Balkhash region. The hunting season opens in mid-September, when there are a lot of waterfowl on the lake. Specially trained individuals help catch the bird by luring their wild counterparts. But shooters need to be careful - there are several species of birds on the lake, hunting which is prohibited, because They are listed in the Red Book: pink and Dalmatian pelicans, white-tailed eagle, whooper swan, spoonbill. For those who want to get a bigger trophy, wild boar hunting is offered, open from October to the end of December. Specially trained dogs track the beast and drive it out of the impenetrable reed thickets. From January it is allowed to shoot foxes, wolves and hare.

Recently, spearfishing has become popular, for which a special gun and a mask with a snorkel are quite sufficient.

Vacationers will enjoy a varied and exciting recreation on the water: boating, yachting, scootering, swimming, surfing and diving. Balkhash often hosts sports competitions in kayaking and fishing, in which anyone who is confident in their abilities can take part.

If you come to the lake in winter, then you can enjoy skiing, windsurfing on ice, and snowmobiling.

Horseback and camel rides around the reservoir will be unforgettable.

If you want to admire the beauty of Lake Balkhash from above, you can take part in a helicopter excursion. Flight prices vary depending on the type of aircraft. You can sign up for an excursion at recreation centers and hotels.

Rocks of Lake Balkhash

The picturesque Bektau-Ata tract is a natural landmark in the outskirts of Balkhash, rising above the Kazakh steppes 70 km from the lake. Bizarre rocks alternate with deep gorges. Many cliffs have names: “Mushroom”, “Turtle”, “Trunk”. In one of the gorges there is a mysterious Auslie cave with clean water, which locals consider healing.

Bektau-Ata tract

Around Lake Balkhash there are many archaeological sites protected by the state and open to the public. Ancient mounds and sites give an idea of the life and customs of the ancient settlers. The most impressive sights: the Aktasty and Klysh mounds, groups of mounds near the Karasu wintering area and in the Ken Dara gorge, the Dermen and Dongal sites, the Aydagarly cave.

A place of pilgrimage for tourists is an example of the cult architecture of the Mazar Ak Beket of the 18th century. Mazar is a construction on burial sites in the form of a round yurt.

Mazar Ak Beket

Vacationers interested in the culture and history of the local people can visit Museum of Local Lore city of Balkhash.

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