Inventor of the modern household sewing machine. The history of the sewing machine

Perhaps the earliest of the sewing machines was one of the progenitors, who was the first to take a bone (wooden, stone) needle into her hands. Moreover, it was more like an awl than a needle. A little later, a hook was invented, and, apparently, then the needle itself with an eyelet, and the eyelet was often made at the base of the needle, just like on modern sewing machines.

The first, somewhere in the fourteenth century, should be considered the Dutch, in whose workshops for sewing sails, a wheeled machine was first used to grind long canvases. Unfortunately, the name of the author of this invention is unknown, it is only known that the machine was very bulky and took up a lot of space. Manual cars appeared about two hundred and fifty years ago and did not represent a mechanism that outwardly resembles a modern one.

The first project of a sewing machine was proposed at the end of the 15th century by Leonardo da Vinci, but it remained unrealized. In 1755, the German Karl Weisental received a patent for a sewing machine that copied the formation of stitches by hand. In 1790, Englishman Thomas Saint invented a sewing machine for sewing boots. The machine had a manual drive, the workpieces of the boots were moved relative to the needle by hand. A more perfect machine for single-thread chain weaving was created by the Frenchman B. Timonier. All these machines have not received widespread practical use. The American Ellias Howe is considered the inventor of the lockstitch sewing machine; the machine he created in 1845 had a number of drawbacks, but it was still more suitable for sewing than the machines of previous inventors. The materials were placed vertically in it, pinned onto the pins of the transport arm, and moved in the forward direction. The curved needle moved in a horizontal plane, and the shuttle, similar to the shuttle of the loom, made a reciprocating motion. The machine was put to practical use, but its appearance caused confusion among tailors. The sewing machine was improved by subsequent inventors.

In the first machines by A. Wilson (1850) and I. M. Singer (1851) vertical movement was imparted to the needle, and the materials pressed by the foot were placed on a horizontal platform. Intermittent movement of materials was carried out by a gear wheel, and then a gear plate (rack). Here, the sewing machine was practically perfected. To the question "Who invented the sewing machine?" the majority will answer without hesitation: Singer. Indeed, Singer cars, bought by great-grandmothers, still work properly in many families. And some people may remember that Singer, while receiving a patent for his invention, out of all the multitude of assemblies and details, patented only one device: a needle with an eyelet at the bottom. Indeed, it was possible to design the mechanical part of the machine in different ways, but a continuous seam with two threads is obtained only with the help of a needle of a new design.

The encyclopedia of F.A.Brockhaus and I.A.Efron reports that the first patent for a shoe-sewing machine was issued to the Englishman Thomas Sen in 1790. The machine, apparently, was unsuccessful, and details of its work have not been preserved. The designs of the British Stone and Henderson in 1804 were not the best either. A needle with an eye near the sharp end was proposed by Mandersperger in 1814, but he did not achieve success either. The American Elias Gow is rightfully considered the creator of the modern sewing machine. His machine, built in 1845, was very well designed and did up to 300 stitches per minute. At home, the invention was greeted with distrust and even hostility, so Gow left for England. Not having achieved success overseas and after returning to America a few years later, the inventor found a number of his followers there. The most fortunate of them was Isaac Singer, a resourceful businessman and a good engineer. Having made several rather valuable improvements in Gow's machine, he managed to expand its production not only in America, but also in Europe, advertising the sewing machine as his own invention. Gough had to defend his rights in court. He managed to win the process and receive compensation for the losses. The first patent for the invention of a sewing machine was granted to the Englishman Charles Weisenthal in 1755, who received a patent for a needle that could be used for a sewing machine. The machine was never created. It took another 34 years before the invention of the Englishman Thomas Saint, which is considered as the first real sewing machine. In 1790, the inventor patented a machine in which an awl made a hole in leather and allowed the needle to pass through it. Critics have pointed out that it is highly possible that Saint only patented the idea, and most likely that the car itself was never built.

In the 1880s, an attempt was made to reproduce the machine from Saint's drawings, but it turned out that it would not work without significant modification. The story is carried over to Germany, where around 1810 the inventor Balthasar Krems developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact date can be given, since Krems did not patent his inventions. Austrian tailor Joseph Madersperger invented a number of mechanisms in the early 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention until 1839 with help from the Austrian government, but he never managed to piece all the pieces together in one machine and eventually died a beggar. Two more inventions were patented in 1804: one in France by Thomas Stone and James Henderson, a machine that tried to imitate hand sewing, the other, by Scott John Duncan, an embroidery machine that used many needles. Unfortunately, nothing is known about the fate of these inventions. And in 1830, the French government issued a patent to the Frenchman Bartholomy Timonier, and he was also given a government order to manufacture a batch of machines for sewing military uniforms. By 1940, a small factory with 80 cars had been built. But the enraged hand-sewing tailors ransacked the factory, destroying all the machines. Timonye left for England with a new model of car, where he founded the first clothing factory. Unfortunately, he went bankrupt and died in poverty in 1957. In America, the Quaker Walter Hunt invented in 1833 the first machine that did not try to imitate hand sewing, but had almost the same appearance as all subsequent ones, that is, a needle with a hole at the end and two bobbins. Her disadvantage was that she only sewed straight and a small piece of fabric. Nine years later, his compatriot, John Greenough, invented a working machine in which the needle would go all the way through the fabric.

Although the model was made and shown in the hope of selling it to sewing magnates, no one was interested in it. In 1845, the American Elias Howe received a patent for the first shuttle-type machine. This type of machines can still be found at some grandmothers, which is popularly called by the name of the manufacturer "Popovka".

It was made in the workshops of the merchant Popov under the trademarks "Singer", "The Popov Spouses", "Singer and Popov". The shuttle moved along the machine, the needle bar was square, the thread tension adjustment was the most primitive. Typically, in the hook, the thread passed through the holes, and the more, the tighter the tension. I must say that for all their shortcomings, these machines serve people to this day. Very often they are used for sewing thick leathers (belts) and tarpaulins. Disadvantages include low sewing speed and poor thread tension adjustment. A radical change in the design of machines took place in 1850, when three inventors at once - Wilson, Gibbs and Singer - patented new designs. The most successful machine was the Singer machine with the so-called "swing shuttle". The essence of the invention: the shuttle began to walk not along the machine, as before, but made an arcuate movement across the machine bed. At the same time, the type of the shuttle has changed, which has become more convenient for passing the thread through it, and a more perfect adjustment of the thread tension has been adjusted. The hook thread was adjusted by a spring, and the upper thread was adjusted by the thread tension cups. In 1854 in New York, Isaac Singer, together with Edward Clark, established the partnership “I. M. Singer & Co., and a sewing machine factory is established in New Jersey.

The enterprise grew and developed. The secret of success lay not only in the popularity of the products themselves, but also in a number of innovative marketing strategies. The system of hire-purchase sales, unique at that time, allowed the company to gain world fame and leadership by 1863. At the end of the 19th century, there was a real boom in the production and purchase of sewing machines. Many well-known firms appeared at this time. In Germany, these are Pfaff, Veritas, Kaizer and several now unknown firms.

The history of the creation of the corporation "Singer"

In 1851, a middle-aged and poor American Jew, Isaac Merritt Singer, could hardly have imagined that in a century and a half his name would be known almost all over the world. A failed theatrical actor, an obscure civil engineer, the inventor of the machines that remained unclaimed for drilling stone and sawing wood - that was, in fact, all he could boast of. Moreover, a huge number of "blessed" and abandoned by them women and illegitimate children who lived in poverty. Nevertheless, it was women who made his main gift, leaving a mark on history. The idea to invent a sewing machine in the middle of the 19th century was no longer original. The first patent for such an invention was issued in England in 1790, then in Austria in 1819, in the USA in 1826 and France in 1830. Another American, Walter Hunt, invented his own version of the typewriter, but did not patent it, tormented by remorse conscience about the fate of thousands of tailors, whom the novelty, in his opinion, threatened with unemployment. As a result, in 1846, a patent for the most perfect typewriter at that time was registered in the name of a certain Elias Howe. By that time, Singer himself had time to try himself in many guises. Born in 1811 to a family of immigrants from Germany in the small town of Pittstown in the north of New York, he left his father's house at the age of 12 and went to America in search of happiness. Ambitious, but illiterate and, according to his contemporaries, completely devoid of any moral principles, Singer changed a lot of professions: from stonecutter to apprentice mechanic, without staying long anywhere. The career of a theatrical actor - prominent for himself, under two meters tall, Singer tried almost all the main roles in productions of Shakespeare's plays - brought applause from provincial women, but not money. As a result, the future millionaire had to find a permanent job in a repair shop for sewing machines, model Elias Howe. Although they were the most perfect seamstress tool for that time, they broke down every now and then, so Singer had enough work. In his hearts, he somehow threw the owner that he could design something better than Howe's products. “If you can build a really practical thing, you will earn more in a year than in your entire life selling your previous inventions,” the owner replied. Singer borrowed $ 40 from a friend - a large sum for those days - and the work began to boil. The work capacity of the inventor, who took over the talent for mechanics from his father, is quite eloquently indicated by the time it took him to create a new machine - 11 days. However, he himself did not even realize what he had done, saying: "I don't give a damn about the invention, the main thing is that the dimes should drip." The Singer machine, unlike others that existed at that time, was equipped with a “foot” that pressed the fabric to the working surface, and a foot drive that freed the hands of seamstresses. In addition, it made it possible to make an unlimited length and not necessarily a straight seam. On August 12, 1851, Singer's invention was officially patented, which he learned a few days later - on August 14 or 15, - having received by mail a thick envelope with good news and patent number 8294.

One of the first to become interested in the novelty was Elias Howe himself, who believed that Singer had stolen his main ideas. The court agreed to his claims, and Singer had to negotiate with Howe about compensation and partnership. They consolidated their patents and received $ 5 each from every sewing machine they sold. However, the partnership did not last long - at the first opportunity, Singer got rid of the forced partner. Meanwhile, things were not going well. The cost of a sewing machine made according to his drawings was an astronomical amount of $ 100 at that time; not every well-to-do family could afford such a luxury. The inventor had to find a partner again. This time, happiness smiled at him in the face of a wealthy lawyer, William Clark. Singer realized that only with the help of Clark's education, business savvy and connections, he could enter the world of really big business. Clarke got down to business seriously. He thought about and for the first time in the United States introduced an installment payment scheme, which dramatically increased the attractiveness of sewing machines in the eyes of buyers. Singer himself, meanwhile, continued to refine his invention. The number of patents increased to 22. At the same time, in the manufacture of sewing machines, he introduced the same processes for processing parts that existed then in the most "advanced" sector of production - weapons. With a machine cost of $ 10, the partners received 530% of the net profit from the sale. Already at the end of 1858, four factories in the state of New York worked for Singer, the number of cars sold reached 3 thousand per year. In 1863, Singer and Clark founded the Singer Manufacturing Company, which was the copyright holder of countless patents, several factories, and a capital of $ 550,000. The opening of a factory in Glasgow in 1867 was the first step in the global expansion of the brand's sewing machines. However, Singer himself had nothing to do with this. His next love escapade caused such a scandal that he was forced to sell his share in the company to a partner and retire to France with one of his female partners. From there he moved to England, bought an estate in Torquay, with a house of 115 rooms and a stable for 50 horses, and lived there happily, happily entertaining 24 children who often stayed with him. There he died before reaching his 64th birthday in 1875. His death caused a long series of lawsuits: the heirs, none of whom subsequently showed themselves in anything, were suing because of the wealth of the old Singer. Today, the profits of the corporation "Singer", which remains the leader in the production of sewing machines in the world, are estimated in billions of dollars. The company owns 620 stores selling, in addition to its traditional goods, TVs, refrigerators and other household appliances. Products with the Singer brand are distributed by more than 12 thousand dealers in 150 countries.

Also in Germany, American Singers were assembled at the Witenberg plant (in the post-war period - since 1948), which subsequently led to the generally accepted misconception about Singer & K as a German company. One of the largest branches of this transnational company before the First World War was the Podolsk branch in Russia. From 1904 to 1914, it produced and assembled about 600 thousand sewing machines of various classes. After the revolution, the enterprise was nationalized and continued to produce the same cars as before the revolution, but under the name first "Gosshveimashina", then "PMZ". After the Second World War, "Singer" was no longer produced in its pure form on the territory of the USSR.

Were released: in Orsha type "Singer" 115 cl. Orsha; in Podolsk - "PMZ-2", similar to the Finnish "Tikka", which is a pre-war development of the Singer company. For a long time, branches remained in many countries of the world, and on the basis of these branches many other well-known companies arose, especially in the countries of the former socialist camp. This is especially noticeable if we carefully consider the units and mechanisms of household machines of socialist countries, which for the most part are not far from their progenitor "Singer" of the 15th class. Perhaps the most interesting of their developments were introduced by Czechoslovakian craftsmen. Some models of "Lada" still amaze with the elegance and originality of engineering. You can even say unsurpassed, at the level of mechanics, engineering study of all units and mechanisms of the machine. It should also be noted some truly successful (for example, Columbia) models of the German company "Veritas" and "Konler". Very good Hungarian Panonia cars. And one cannot fail to mention the reliable and simple Polish "Radom". As for Singer, at the moment the huge industrial empire is suffering losses, especially after the recent purchase of Pfaff in Germany and the Podolsk concern in the Moscow region. The sale of her branch in Taiwan did not help her either. The older firm is being squeezed all along the front by the younger (relatively) Asian firms. The leader in sales today is the Japanese firm "Brother", also known in Russia under the Japanese name "Chori". Founded in 1908, the company has been producing household machines since 1934. By 1995, the firm had produced 30 million sewing machines. The main branches of the company are in Taiwan and China. Sewing machines of the "Brother" company are distinguished by their ease of operation, maintenance and the availability of models for every taste and wallet. At the moment, the company focuses on reducing the cost of its products. The largest park of products belongs to not very high-quality, but super-cheap, by Western standards, models of machines of the "soap dish" type. These machines are simple, but lack some useful functions, such as the pressure regulator of the presser foot on the fabric. Also, many models have many weak points in their design, which leads to frequent breakdowns. More reliable, albeit not much more expensive, Janome cars. They have perfectly proven themselves in the Russian market and have a constant and unflagging demand. Founded in 1921, the company currently produces more than 280 models of sewing machines and is a leading manufacturer of computer-controlled machines. The machines of this company, and especially the My Style series, are distinguished by high reliability, quiet operation and ease of maintenance. The factories of the Janome company also produce machines of other well-known companies, such as the German Pfaff, Hobby class cars, the Swiss company Elna and others. The story about Japanese companies cannot be completed without telling about two more well-known manufacturers of sewing machines - Toyota and Jaguar. At the moment, both firms have lost their previously won positions, their machine park is small, but these firms also have some interesting models. For example, Toyota cars are often superior to all competitors in workmanship, and Jaguar announced the creation of the first Online typewriter connected to the Internet. As for the more recently famous European firms, such as Huscvarna or Eina, or a dozen others, they will most likely have to give in to the aggressive and skillful policies of Japanese firms. "Huscvarna" makes cars graceful, beautiful in design, but completely unrepairable, with a short service life, complicated and expensive to maintain and frequent. Cars of other European firms, with their relatively good quality, are distinguished by an exorbitantly high price, which often leads to a drop in demand for them.

The history of the development of sewing machines in Russia

The history of Singer machines in Russia is special. JSC "Zinger" is still operating in Podolsk near Moscow. The company, founded in 1900, started out as small sewing machine workshops. Later, 65 offices were opened throughout the country. Cars from Russia were exported abroad: to Turkey, Persia, Japan and China. And the Singer company became the “Supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty”.

In 1897, the Russian branch of the Singer Company was established, formally registered as an independent company. Most of its directorate was made up of German nationals. The principles of organizing a company in the United States extended to the Russian Empire: the creation of its own trade network, production branches, advertising activities, customer service, consumer credit (for Russia it was 3 years).

At the time of its heyday, in the 60s of the last century, the Singer Manufacturing Company (its official name since 1863) entered the Russian market. According to the agreement concluded with the company, all trade in sewing machines was concentrated in the hands of Georg Neidlinger, a German citizen who was called "the main agent for Europe", who had a head warehouse in Hamburg and 65 branches in Russia.

When, with the light hand of Neidlinger, Singer sewing machines firmly established themselves in the market, the company's management decided to take over the entire sewing machine trade and in 1897 founded the joint-stock company "Singer Manufacturing Company" (since 1901 - "Singer Company in Russia") ... The founders were the president of the American company Gilber Park, the vice-president of the Englishman Douglas Alexander, and the same Georg Neidlinger was at the head of the board until 1902.

However, the import of finished sewing machines from abroad demanded considerable costs, which led to a rise in the cost of machines and, as a result, to difficulties in their sale, especially in connection with the intensification of competition with German firms. This is how the idea arose to found our own mechanical plant in Russia.

The choice fell on Podolsk, which at that time was a provincial city with five thousand inhabitants. The minutes of the November 7, 1900 meeting of the shareholders of the Singer company stated: “... in the summer of 1900, the Company acquired a plot of land from the city of Podolsk for the implementation of the main goal of the company, expressed in paragraph 1 of the charter, and on this site the construction of a plant has already begun of significant size for the manufacture of sewing machines in Russia, both for sale within the empire, as well as for export abroad, namely: to Turkey and other states of the Balkan Peninsula, as well as to Persia, Japan and China. "

The construction started brought an unprecedented revival to the city. Many hundreds of people were involved in his area of ​​interest. Everyone knew the figure of the director Walter Frank Dixon, who remained in this position until 1917. The plant was built quickly, equipped with the latest technology of that time. In 1902, the production of individual parts for the so-called family (household) sewing machines began, and by 1913 the gross profit had increased more than seven times, the production of family machines reached more than 600 thousand pieces (about 2,500 pieces per day). Cars were sold in company stores, which (more than 3,000) were scattered throughout the Russian Empire and had a whole army of employees - a total of about 20,000 people. The hire-purchase system was still very popular, while the quality of sewing machines was not inferior to the quality of overseas ones. The Singer company has even earned the right to be the “Supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty”.

The First World War ruined all plans: the production of sewing machines was reduced, and one of the new buildings did not have to be used for its intended purpose - by agreement with the land-city union "Zemgor" it was transferred to the production of shells.

The year 1917 became a turning point in the history of the Podolsk enterprise. To prevent its final closure, the Singer company leased the plant to the Provisional Government on favorable terms. And on November 30, 1918, the newspaper "Economic Life" published a message from the Presidium of the Supreme Council of the National Economy on the Soviet government's decree on the nationalization of the sewing machine plant of the "Singer" company. In the next eight decades, the Singer company and its offspring in Podolsk lived and developed independently of each other.

The fate of the only sewing machine plant in Russia was difficult, but interesting. Its history reflects the path traveled by the country: wars, devastation and the rise of production; production of a wide variety of products - from small consumer goods to motorcycles; state management by a huge monopolist and falling into the abyss of a market economy. But the main thing has been preserved - the traditions of the most unique sewing machine-building industry in the world, the cadres of specialists.

The future of the enterprise was associated with reconstruction, the introduction of new technologies and the release of competitive products. The only possible solution, and history has proved it, was the return of the Singer company, which, with every year increasing its potential, has become a leading manufacturer and distributor of household and industrial sewing machines in the world. Enterprises producing more than 120 models of this unique product, as well as accessories and fittings, successfully operate in Europe, Asia and Latin America.

In 1994, the Podolsk enterprise again became part of the Singer company, and the practice confirmed the effectiveness of cooperation not only with it, but also with the companies Pfaff, Akai, Sansui and others that are part of the transnational corporation Semi-Tek. ...

Singer's trademark method of market conquest was the exchange of old sewing machines for new ones (or cash compensation). A specific feature of the company's activities was that industrial design sewing machines were produced only in the United States and imported into the countries with branches. Local factories (in Britain, Russia) produced only consumer modification cars for individual use.

The territory of Russia was divided into large regions, where there were "Central branches", subordinate to the government in St. Petersburg. In 1914, there were 50 central offices in Russia. Of these, 3 were in Transcaucasia and Central Asia, 6 in Siberia, 38 in European Russia.

After the Great October Socialist Revolution, a domestic industry was created. At the first initial stage, universal sewing machines were produced, which were used for sewing various types of products, regardless of the properties and thickness of materials. The use of this kind of machine led to fatigue of workers due to multiple, monotonously repetitive preparatory techniques performed during the operation. All these difficulties have led to the creation of specialized sewing machines that facilitate the implementation of certain operations.

The stabilization of the post-revolutionary period led to a rapid increase in the volume of sales of sewing machines, the need to organize a wide network of maintenance and repair of already sold equipment, since Singer provided clear warranty obligations.

Today sewing machines, thanks to all kinds of devices - feet, attachments, switches - can not only sew, but also embroider, overcast loops, bend edges, sew on buttons. Some needles have straight blades, others curved. A shoe sewing machine, as a rule, does not have an eyelet at the sharp end of the needle, but a hook. For stitching leather, needles with a special sharpening are used: oval, rhombic, square, with three edges and in the form of a spatula. Embroidery machines, skilled craftswomen of patterns, have more than ten needles.

In all periods of the sewing machine's existence, it was not an easy task to make needles for it. Even an ordinary needle is not so easy to make, and sewing is even more difficult. First, a special needle wire is taken. It is fed into an automatic machine, which cuts and makes a workpiece for two needles. Then the automata sharpen the ends of the future needles. The following machines pierce the ears and break the workpieces into two needles. But that's not all. To make the needle strong, it is passed through a thermal apparatus. Now you need to polish it - to bring a gloss so that the needle shines. This is a very long and painstaking work. It is no coincidence that the production of needles is established only in seven countries of the world, they are highly valued. A few kilograms of needles cost as much as the best passenger car! It's good that we have to buy them not in kilograms, but in pieces!

At the All-Russian Polytechnic Exhibition in Moscow in 1872, the first model of an electric sewing machine was demonstrated. It was invented by the famous Russian electrical engineer V.I. Chikalev. The car was driven by a small electric motor, which was powered by a rechargeable battery. In the West, Chikalev's invention was almost immediately put into production. And our electric sewing machines began to be produced only in the 50s of the XX century.

Sewing machine classification

According to their purpose, sewing machines are divided into stitching and special ones: overcasting, blind stitch, button-type sewing machines, etc. There are also universal sewing machines (they allow you to make seams of various types, stitches of different lengths and in different directions) and semiautomatic machines (designed to perform certain operations) ...

Depending on the type of weave, the sewing machines are divided into 2 subgroups: lockstitch and chainstitch machines.

All sewing machines belonging to one subgroup have much in common, both in the principle of operation and in the design of the working bodies. The most widespread among universal sewing machines is a single-needle shuttle stitch machine, the main elements of which are the mechanisms of the needle-main shaft, thread take-up, shuttle and fabric motor (toothed rack).

I. Industrial sewing machines.

II. Household sewing machines:

1. Lockstitch sewing machines:

1) Mechanical and electromechanical.

In mechanical sewing machines, specially shaped gears, levers, wheels, copiers and similar mechanics are responsible for the movement of the needle and the movement of the fabric conveyor. Machines with mechanical control, due to technological features, cannot sew complex-shaped stitches and have a limited number of stitches. Mechanical machines are driven by rotation of the handwheel handle or are foot operated. The flywheel of the electromechanical machine rotates the electric motor, and the sewing speed is adjusted by pressing the pedal.

In machines with microprocessor control, the movement of the fabric and the needle is controlled by a microprocessor. This control principle removes restrictions on the complexity of the lines and on their number. Everything is determined by the amount of memory and the program that the manufacturer has put into this or that model. Only computer-controlled machines can sew eyelet buttonholes and beautiful decorative stitches. There are models that allow you to sew without a pedal (they are equipped with a start / stop button and a sewing speed regulator).

3) Embroidery machines.

When using the embroidery machine, the fabric is hooped. The hoop drive mechanism receives commands from the computer to move the fabric in accordance with the program - "machine embroidery design".

4) Sewing and embroidery machines.

Machines of this class are microprocessor-controlled machines to which you can connect an embroidery unit and use the machine as an embroidery machine.

2. Chainstitch sewing machines: overlocks, coverstitch machines, carpetlocks, hemming machines.

Progress has long and thoroughly touched the field of sewing. Modern sewing and embroidery machines are a complex, multifunctional mechanism that helps to realize almost any sewing fantasies and plans, even in the absence of sewing experience!

A modern sewing machine can take pride of place in the notorious smart home of the future: it not only sews, but also independently configures, prompts, warns, suggests options and, if necessary, goes online to update its libraries!


History of sewing machines.

Domestic sewing machine. Mike savad


Perhaps the earliest of the sewing machines was one of the progenitors, who was the first to take a bone (wooden, stone) needle into her hands. Moreover, it was more like an awl than a needle. A little later, a hook was invented, and then the needle itself with an eyelet, and the eyelet was often made at the base of the needle, just like on modern sewing machines. The first, somewhere in the fourteenth century, should be considered the Dutch, in whose workshops for sewing sails, a wheeled machine was first used to grind long canvases. Unfortunately, the name of the author of this invention is unknown, it is only known that the machine was very bulky and took up a lot of space. Manual cars appeared about two hundred and fifty years ago and did not represent a mechanism outwardly similar to the modern one.


The first project of a sewing machine was proposed at the end of the 15th century by Leonard da Vinci, but it remained unrealized. In 1755. German Karl Weisental received a patent for a sewing machine that copies the formation of stitches by hand. In 1790 the Englishman Thomas Saint invented a sewing machine for sewing boots. The machine had a manual drive, the workpieces of the boots were moved relative to the needle by hand. A more perfect machine for single-thread chain weaving was created by the Frenchman B. Timonier.
All these machines have not received widespread practical use.


The sewing machine invented by Elias Howe in 1845


The inventor of the lockstitch sewing machine is considered to be the American Ellias Howe, created by him in 1845, the machine had a number of drawbacks, but it was still more suitable for sewing than the machines of previous inventors.


Elias Howe (English Elias Howe; spelling variants of the name Elias Howe, Elias Howe, Elias Howe, Elias Howe, July 9, 1819, Spencer (English) Russian, Massachusetts, USA - October 3, 1867, New York, USA) - American mechanic and entrepreneur; one of the inventors of the sewing machine



Elias Howe



Elias Howe



Elias Howe 1867


The materials were placed vertically in it, pinned onto the pins of the transport arm, and moved in the forward direction. The curved needle moved in a horizontal plane, and the shuttle, similar to the shuttle of the loom, made a reciprocating motion. The machine was put to practical use, but its appearance caused confusion among tailors.


Howe, Elias sewing machine



Model 12 "boat" shuttle



Bullet shuttle in old Singers


The sewing machine was improved by subsequent inventors. In the first machines by A. Wilson (1850) and I. Singer (1851) vertical movement was imparted to the needle, and the materials pressed by the foot were placed on a horizontal platform.

The principle of the formation of a line by a lockstitch machine. Vertical rotary


Intermittent movement of materials was carried out by a gear wheel, and then a gear plate (rack). Here, the sewing machine was practically perfected.



To the question: "Who invented the sewing machine?" - the majority, without hesitation, will answer - Singer. Indeed, Singer cars, bought by great-grandmothers, still work properly in many families. And some people may remember that Singer, while receiving a patent for his invention, out of all the multitude of assemblies and details, patented only one device: a needle with an eyelet at the bottom. Indeed, it was possible to design the mechanical part of the machine in different ways, but a continuous seam with two threads is obtained only with the help of a needle of a new design.


Isaac Merritt Singer


The Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedia reports that the first patent for a shoe-sewing machine was granted to the Englishman Thomas Sen in 1790. The machine, apparently, was unsuccessful, and details of its work have not been preserved. The designs of the British Stone and Henderson in 1804 were not the best either. A needle with an eye near the sharp end was proposed by Mandersperger in 1814, but he did not achieve success either. The American Elias Howe is rightfully considered the creator of the modern sewing machine.
His machine, built in 1845, was very well designed and did up to 300 stitches per minute.


Edward Harris May Portrait of Isaac Merritt Singer 1869


In April 1845, Elias Howe created the first working version of his sewing machine, on September 10, 1846 received US patent # 4750 for the development of a machine using a lockstitch (closed, shuttle stitch). Elias Howe was not the first to invent and create a sewing machine, before him such engineers as Barthelemy Timonier and Walter Hunt worked in this field, but it was Howe who became the owner of the patent for a key technology. Howe's sewing machine could sew straight seams at speeds of up to 300 stitches per minute, and Scientific American calls the invention "extraordinary."

Howe could not organize the production and sale of cars in his homeland and in 1846 went to England, where he sold the rights to use his car in Great Britain to William Thomas, a manufacturer of corsets, shoes and umbrellas.


The first Singer sewing machine


After returning to the United States, Howe discovers that sewing machines of a similar design are already on sale, in particular, Isaac Singer's machine looked like an improved version of Howe's machine. Elias sues and after 5 years of litigation, in 1854, the court recognizes Howe's priority, the rest of the producers are forced to pay royalties to him. Howe and Singer temporarily combine their assets and receive $ 5 each from each sewing machine sold, but their partnership does not last long.


Die Gartenlaube, 1853 (The Garden Arbor). German


The first patent for the invention of a sewing machine was granted to the Englishman Charles Weisenthal in 1755, who received a patent for a needle that could be used for a sewing machine. The machine was never created. It took another 34 years before the invention of the Englishman Thomas Saint, which is considered as the first real sewing machine. In 1790, the inventor patented a machine in which an awl made a hole in leather and allowed the needle to pass through it. Critics have pointed out that it is highly possible that Saint only patented the idea, and most likely that the car itself was never built. In the 1880s an attempt was made to reproduce the machine from Saint's drawings, but it turned out that it would not work without significant modification.


Die Gartenlaube (The Garden Arbor). German


The story is carried over to Germany, where around 1810, the inventor Balthasar Krems invented a machine for sewing caps. No exact date can be given, since Krems did not patent his inventions. Austrian tailor Joseph Madersperger invented a number of mechanisms in the early 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention until 1839, with help from the Austrian government, but he never managed to piece all the pieces together in one machine and eventually died a beggar.


Water turbine driven sewing machine


Two more inventions were patented in 1804, one in France by Thomas Stone and James Henderson, a machine that tried to imitate hand sewing, another by Scott John Duncan, an embroidery machine that used many needles. Unfortunately, nothing is known about the fate of these inventions. And in 1830, a patent was issued to the Frenchman Bartholomy Timonier by the French government, and he was also given a government order to manufacture a batch of machines for sewing military uniforms. By 1940, a small factory with 80 cars had been built.


Seamstress (dressmaker) - drawing of the late 19th century




But the enraged hand-sewing tailors ransacked the factory, destroying all the machines. Timonye left for England with a new model of car, where he founded the first clothing factory. Unfortunately, he went bankrupt and died in poverty in 1957. In America, the Quaker Walter Hunt invented in 1833, the first machine that did not try to imitate hand sewing, but had almost the same appearance as all subsequent ones, i.e. a needle with a hole in the end; and two bobbins. Her disadvantage was that she only sewed straight and a small piece of fabric. Nine years later, his compatriot, John Greenaughey, invented a working machine in which the needle passed completely through the fabric.


Goldsmith


Although the model was made and shown, in the hope of selling it to sewing magnates, no one was interested in it. In 1845, the American Elias Howe received a patent for the first shuttle-type machine.


Elias Howe


If you are interested in how they looked and worked this machine, then this type of machines can still be found at some grandmothers, which is popularly called by the name of the manufacturer "Popovka". It was made in the workshops of the merchant Popov under the trademarks "Singer", "The Popov Spouses", "Singer and Popov".

In 1870, the Popovs Trading House was opened, which took a leading position in the sewing machine market and then became the most famous in Russia. The cars sold were named “popovka” and “beloruchka” because of the white ceramic drive handle. It was made in the workshops of the merchant Popov under the trademarks "Singer", "The Popov Spouses", "Singer and Popov".



Shuttle stitch sewing machine made by "NAUMANN" (Germany 1894-1896). Made by special order of the Popov Trading House in connection with the 25th anniversary of its work:


Sewing machine NAUMANN anniversary 1870-1895


The jubilee series of cars is interesting. On the basis - a photo of the Popov couple. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Popov and K company was engaged in the purchase of sewing machines in Germany and their implementation in Russia.


Jubilee VERAS sewing machine 1870-1895


The shuttle moved along the machine, the needle bar was square, the thread tension adjustment was the most primitive. As a rule, in the hook, the thread passed through the holes and the more, the tighter the tension. I must say that for all their shortcomings, these machines serve people to this day. Very often they are used for sewing thick leathers (belts) and tarpaulins.

Disadvantages include low sewing speed and poor thread tension adjustment. A fundamental change in the design of machines occurred in 1850, when three inventors Wilson, Gibbs and Singer patented new designs at once. The most successful machine was the Singer machine with the so-called "swing shuttle". The essence of the invention - the shuttle began to walk not along the machine, as before, but made an arched movement across the machine bed. At the same time, the type of the shuttle changed, more convenient for passing the thread through it, and more perfect adjustment of the thread tension flowed. The hook thread was adjusted by a spring, and the upper thread was adjusted by the thread tension cups.

In 1854, Isaac Singer, together with Edward Clark, established the IM Singer & Co partnership in New York, and a sewing machine factory was founded in New Jersey. The enterprise grew and developed. The secret of success was not only the popularity of the products themselves, but also the result of innovative marketing strategies. The system of hire-purchase sales, unique at that time, allowed the company to gain world fame and leadership by 1863. At the end of the 19th century, there was a real boom in the production and purchase of sewing machines. Many well-known firms appeared at this time.
In Germany, these are Pfaff, Veritas, Kaizer and several now unknown firms.


Pfaff



Singer Red eye Nadine 1921



This is a fiddle-base Singer "New Family" Model 12. Two serial numbers mean it was either made on October 31st 1888 at the Kilbowie factory in Scotland OR May 27th 1876 in Glasgow



Sewing machine 1878-1902, manufactured by The Hengstenberg & Anker Sewing Machine Companies, Bielefeld, Germany



Sewing machine, 1903, Manufactured by Gritzner High-Arm Transverse Shuttle Machine - Treadle, Durlach, Germany



Singer sewing machine of 1906 release. Manufactured in Elizabeth, New Jersey USA



Singer sewing machine manufactured in 1910. Manufactured in Elizabeth, New Jersey USA



Singer sewing machine manufactured in 1911. Produced in Podolsk, Russia



Singer sewing machine manufactured in 1914. Manufactured in Clydebank, Scotland



Sewing machine 1948-1958 year of release. Production "Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after Kalinin ", USSR



Singer sewing machine. Russia, 1900



Barthélemy Thimonnier, portrait from Le Petit Journal Supplement Illustre, 1907

The history of the creation of the sewing machine.

The story begins at the very moment when an ancient woman first picked up a bone needle. Later, a crochet hook was invented for threading the thread through holes punched in the fabric. And after that, there is a needle with an eye for a thread.

A kind of sewing machine originated in the 14th century in Holland.

The first project of a sewing machine was proposed by Leonardo da Vinci in the 15th century. However, the idea of ​​the great scientist was never implemented. It was only in 1755 that Karl Weisental was able to obtain a patent for the invention of a sewing machine that copied hand-made stitches. And in 1790 the Englishman Thomas Saint created a machine designed for sewing boots. The machine had a manual drive, the workpieces of the boots were moved relative to the needle by hand. A more perfect machine for single-thread chain weaving was created by the Frenchman Barthélemy Timonier. However, all these mechanisms have not received wide practical application.It was only at the beginning of 1845 that the American mechanic Ellias Howe constructed the first practically usable machine, which gave a double stitch and did 300 stitches per minute.

The first sewing machine, more or less similar to the modern one, appeared in the 18th century. All of the above inventions only recreated hand sewing and could only sew in one thread. In this case, the fabric must have been in an upright position, and the seam itself was quite easily unraveled.

The real story of the sewing machine begins with Singer.

Isaac Singer, a self-taught engineer, worked in a small sewing machine repair shop. Once, during the repair of another machine, he decided that he could come up with a more perfect device. Singer borrowed $ 40 from a friend, spent 11 days at work and built a new sewing machine. This device made it possible to make not only straight seams, but any. The fabric was pressed against the table top with a special “foot”, and the mechanism itself was operated by a comfortable foot pedal, which freed the dressmaker's hands and allowed the fabric to be held and guided.However, Singer did not stop there, continuing to improve his invention. Singer also became the first sewing machine manufacturer who decided to sell spare parts for them separately from the units.

The first sewing machines from this company were very expensive - $ 125. Then Singer decided to sell cars in installments. The move boosted sales to 1,000 copies a year. And by 1875, the turnover of his company had grown as much as 200 times. The jump helped bring the cost of the car down from $ 200 to $ 10.

In the late 19th and throughout the 20th century, sewing machines became incredibly popular. They are bought and sold in huge quantities. There are more and more new firms for the production of these units, although the company "Singer" remains the world leader in the number of machine sales.

In Russia, in St. Petersburg in 1866, the first factory for the production of sewing machines was opened. Its founder was Robert Goetz, later Leon Casteleion expanded the factory, setting up the production of various types of machines. In 1902, a factory for the production of Singer typewriters was founded in Podolsk. At first, the enterprise consisted of several small workshops where machines were assembled. However, later the factory grew so that it had 65 offices in various regions of the country.


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Once upon a time, one of the women, our ancestors, took a sharp bone in her hands and used it to pierce a hole in the skin - this is how the history of sewing began. Later they came up with a hook, and then a needle with an eye. The Dutch were the first to mechanize the process of sewing canvases, who in the 14th century grinded sails in this way on a huge machine, the inventor of which is unknown. Manual and more compact typewriters appeared 250 years ago and had nothing to do with modern typewriters.

Start

Project the first sewing machine proposed in the 15th century by Leonardo da Vinci, but he remained unclaimed. Already in the 18th century, a German inventor managed to obtain a patent for a machine that simulated hand-stitching of fabrics. Then the Englishman invented a hand-operated machine for sewing boots. At the same time, the workpieces for the boots had to be moved by hand when sewing. The French went further and invented a single thread chain weaving machine.

The American Ellias Howe became the inventor of the sewing machine with a shuttle. The machine he created in 1845 was also not ideal, but still it was more suitable for sewing than all machines before it. The material, impaled on the pins of the conveyor, moved vertically in it, and the needle moved horizontally. The shuttle moved like the shuttle of a loom. The car was popular, but it broke down very often.

Development

Other inventors began to improve the sewing machine. In the machines of Wilson and Singer, which appeared in the 50s of the 19th century, the needle moved vertically. The fabric was positioned horizontally and pressed with a foot, and it was moved using a gear wheel. These machines were equipped with a foot drive, which freed the hands of the seamstress. The sewing machine was almost perfect, allowing long seams to be sewn.

Among sewing machine inventors Singer is still the most famous. And Singer machines, made at the beginning of the last century, still work and do not break. In addition, the far-sighted Singer in his sewing machine patented only one thing - a needle with an eye at the bottom, since a two-thread seam could only be obtained with such a needle, regardless of the drive mechanism.

But few people know that the American Walter Hunt invented his machine even before Singer, but, listening to remorse, took pity on thousands of tailors who may remain unemployed and did not patent it. As a result, in 1846, a patent for a typewriter very close to the modern one, which could do about 300 stitches per minute, was obtained by Elias Howe. It was his ideas that were taken as a basis by Isaac Singer, who, having made a number of improvements in Howe's typewriter, began production in America and Europe.

Step forward

The first sewing machines were universal and were used for sewing a wide variety of products, regardless of the material being sewn. Monotonous work on such machines led to rapid fatigue. The process of finding ways to make the work of a seamstress easier has led to the creation of sewing machines that specialize in certain operations.

A modern sewing machine is a whole fireworks of ways and a combination of possibilities. Could our grandmothers have dreamed of different decorative stitches when their sewing machines were only able to sew in a straight line? The next generation sewing machines were already capable of zigzagging.

Modernity

The new generation sewing machines can be divided into several types according to the drive method:

  • mechanical;
  • electrical;
  • electronic.

The simplest ones are mechanical sewing machines, hand and foot, actuated by mechanical action on the levers. These machines have very few functions.

Electric sewing machines driven by an electric motor. This model is still popular with the older generation due to its ease of use and a set of standard features.

The most modern and advanced dressmakers prefer electronic sewing machines with built-in microprocessor. After all, such a machine is capable of making the most complex lines, and even embroider a drawing of any complexity.

The modern sewing machine has changed not only the type of control, but also the appearance. This can be seen from the electronic display that guides you through program selection. And the most modern machines with electronic control are equipped with an LCD display. Stitch patterns and embroidery designs can be added to the microprocessor's program memory via a computer.

A modern sewing machine can sew up to 100 different types of stitching, both working and decorative. Its design is more and more complicated. Now it is easy to imagine how far we have gone from the bone needle of our distant progenitor.

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There are certain sewing machine classes: household and industrial sewing machines... In turn, households have their own sewing machine classes: electromechanical machines (machines with mechanical selection of seams), computerized (have a built-in computer board) and computer sewing and embroidery machines.


Industrial sewing machine.

Industrial sewing machine.

Industrial sewing machines have one big advantage - maximum reliability is guaranteed at high operating speeds. The number of rotations of the electric motor of the industrial sewing machine reaches 5000 per minute, the motor is very powerful, due to which the work will be comfortable, accurate and from a quick start. Industrial sewing machines feature improved balancing, which eliminates vibration at high speeds and ensures good control when changing sewing direction.

Electric drive is an electric motor that drives the flywheel. The drive is usually controlled by a foot pedal, the sewing speed being proportional to the pressure on the pedal. The overwhelming majority of household sewing machines produced today are equipped with an electric drive. Non-powered machines are called mechanical (hand or foot) sewing machines..

Electro-mechanical machine- sewing machine with electric drive and mechanical control. All control (selection of the type of stitch, stitch length and width, adjusting the thread tension, etc.) is carried out using mechanical switches located on the machine body.

Electronic sewing machine sewing machine with electronic control. The microprocessor controls the movement of the needle relative to the fabric. This control principle removes restrictions on the complexity and the number of lines performed. All sewing operations are stored in the memory of the machine, the selection and setting of the desired sewing operation is carried out using the electronic panel, and help information and tips are displayed on the display. The electronics automatically adjusts some sewing parameters, and all seams are usually programmed for optimal parameters (which, however, you can always easily change).

To classes sewing machines also ranked cars computerized type... This class sewing machines more functional than electromechanical a type.

Display equipped with most electronic sewing machines. This can be a small indicator display showing the number of the selected operation and the minimum sewing parameters (for example, the selected stitch length and width). Or it is a liquid crystal display, which also displays tips, help information and recommendations for sewing. An option, implemented only in the most elite models, is a color touchscreen liquid crystal display, with the help of which all control of the sewing machine is carried out. The cost of an electronic sewing machine significantly depends on the size and parameters of the display.

Sewing and embroidery machine- a machine equipped with an embroidery unit. An embroidery unit is a device with a hoop, which is attached to the body of the sewing machine (however, it can be integrated, and then only the hoop must be attached for embroidery). During embroidery, the hoop moves in different directions and the machine automatically creates a particular pattern. You only need to change the color of the thread as required by the machine. Embroidery machines can create patterns in various techniques (cutwork, satin stitch, cross-stitch, hemstitch, etc.) The newest sewing and embroidery machines have a lot of possibilities, for example, connect directly to a computer. Pattern libraries can be replenished by buying special floppy disks, creating patterns on a computer using special programs or downloading them from the Internet.

Computer sewing and embroidery machines- this is a high class of sewing machines with a built-in embroidery unit. Along with professional sewing, there is an option to automatically embroider on the hoop. These sewing machines are capable of automatically cross-stitching, stitching, quilting, cutwork, hemstitching. There are very few such sewing machines in the world, they have almost unlimited possibilities: more than 10 types of buttonholes, 500 decorative and working operations, several types of numbers and alphabets, and much more.

Overlock- an irreplaceable addition to the sewing machine, which allows you to work with elastic fabrics, stretch fabrics, knitwear. The layers of fabric are sewn together with a strong and elastic seam at the same time, and the edge is finished and trimmed. Unlike a sewing machine that performs an inelastic shuttle stitch, an overlock stitch is tied with loopers, resulting in the same elasticity as the fabric itself. Household overlocks are usually 2, 3, 4 or 5-thread. When choosing an overlocker, pay attention to the sleeve platform, differential feed and the types of seams to be made.

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