Burl of a tree what do they do with it. Burl (build-up) - a defect in the development of a tree and a valuable ornamental material

What are mouth guards and suvelis, how do they differ? How and where to procure them? How to quickly and efficiently dry outgrowths at home?

Cap

So, first, let's define some concepts.

Cap(he is " witch broom") Is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bunch of thin twigs growing from a tear-shaped (most often) outgrowth. When cross-sectioned, it has a texture with pronounced cores of knots. It is difficult to process due to a strongly curled texture and a huge number of knots. , durable, excellent sanding and polishing.

Separate numerous areas have a pearlescent sheen. It is not of great industrial importance, but it is highly prized because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for finishing furniture (mainly caps of exotic tree species are used), as well as for the production of small items such as caskets, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, small jewelry (burls of birch). The use of a mouth guard on the knife handles is considered good taste and is also prized by woodcarvers for its unique texture.

You cannot find two identical pieces of burl - even the halves of the sawn burl have a different pattern, so the build-up is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (from those growing in our latitudes). The growth is usually small, at most the size of a volleyball or the size of a large plate.

It makes no sense to cut some kind of pattern on the mouthpiece, since the texture clogs everything.

The photo shows a birch burl. Unfortunately, I could not get a cut of a birch burl (I took these pictures near the police station, and, as you know, they wouldn't have given me anything to cut there ... But I contrived and found an ash burl; in texture, most burls are similar and differ only in color and size of knot cores).

(swil) - as the name implies, the build-up got its name because of its structure. "Twisted structure"

That's putting it mildly. Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical outgrowth on a tree (there is also an annular variety, it covers the tree trunk around the perimeter), it usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When sawn, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main sign of difference from mouth guard; in the future, do not confuse suvel and cap). The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on the sanded wood creates a beautiful iridescent, glowing picture from the inside. The swill is just as poorly processed as the burl, but not as hard. The size varies from the size of a nut to 1.5 meters in height (I myself saw this on a birch) and up to 2 meters in diameter (a ring-shaped suvel that completely covered the trunk of the tree).

There is a font in the Vatican significantly more than a meter in diameter, cut from a single piece of suveli. I myself once sat in an armchair cut out of a suveli. It perfectly holds fine carvings, but it is not recommended to cut the suvel. Better to sand and varnish (soak in oil). The product will only benefit from this.

The most valuable is the root or butt swell. The presence of dark veins and clearly pronounced twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. The barrel suvel has a finer texture and a more subtle "frosty" pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, the butt gouge slightly surpasses the barrel gouge due to the peculiarity of the structure of the tree trunk. Suvel is durable, beautiful, easy to polish and grind. Well dried and processed, it begins to "glow" from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the tree becomes similar to amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from pale yellow or pinkish brown to very ocher brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. The cap has the same colors.

As you can see, the suvel does not look like a burl at all.

Is a mushroom (not to be confused with a tinder fungus) and we do not need it for our purposes.

Blank

Where to look for growths ... Naturally in the forest. BUT! Certain places there is no growth, they grow spontaneously, and the most beautiful growths will be found by the most eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to a mushroom hunt - who is more and more about e gal forest, that and more got it.

We cut off the build-up. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will be tortured to saw, and the tree will begin to shaggy. We do not peel off the bark.

I highlight in red:

1. If the outgrowth is a "trunk-embracing" or kapokroot, then it is more correct to refrain from cutting it - the tree may die. It is advisable to acquire such burls and twigs during legal logging, when the tree is doomed anyway.
2. It is advisable to cut down the growths in the dry season, ideally at the end of August, early September, before the start of sap flow.
3. Do not forget to cover the cut on the tree with oil paint or wax, or something similar.

Drying

So how to dry? By the "steaming" method. I must say right away that this method is suitable for small pieces of wood: somewhere in the middle of a soccer ball or a small piece of wood.

1. We take an unnecessary pan (bucket), and throw a piece of wood there. The pan should be taken exactly unnecessary, since a very tricky broth is formed during the cooking process, which is then very troublesome to wash. It is better to clean a piece of wood from any rags of birch bark and other fragile and loose particles - they will fall off anyway.

   I consider birch growth as the most accessible and beautiful. The rest of the growths are boiled using the same technology. The log is properly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. We pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). The water should cover the piece of wood about a centimeter or two. The tree naturally floats up, but we press it to the bottom and we will see everything. Pour water no matter what, cold or hot - it will still boil. You can throw a piece of wood into a saucepan, no matter how much you pity, the volume of an individual piece of wood is important, and not the total volume of devesina.

2. We take table salt, which is not a pity. We don't cook soup. Pour 2 large tablespoons per liter of water
   with a top of salt. It is possible and more, no matter how sorry, it's okay, it's impossible to overdo it. The main thing is that the water is sickly salty. You can use marine clean water(exactly clean, otherwise it will smell disgusting of mud). The salt will draw sap from the tree, but the tree will not saturate.
3. We find sawdust of resinous wood species. Spruce, pine, the easiest to get. We take the saw: and forward. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (we rake the sawdust with both hands). It was sawdust, not shavings from a simple hand planer. The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get it at the nearest sawmill or cut it yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and can usually be obtained in large quantities and easily. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the finer the sawdust, the better. We fall asleep in a saucepan. The sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From pale pink-yellow to ocher-brown. And also see O Wood will add strength and texture to the wood.
4. When the water boils, we reduce the heat and leave it boiling for 6-8 hours, you can do more, as long as you have enough patience. If the saucepan is large, then you can not diminish the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to look so that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do the trick. We add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red "broth" is formed. And scale. It is better to remove scale immediately. It is very difficult to wash.
5. It took 6-8 hours (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the piece of wood. We wash under running water from sawdust. Water from the pan
   we dump it out for uselessness, but you can leave it the next time, if you have somewhere to store it. But pouring out the water is easier. We throw in the build-up
   on the closet, wrapping nothing. For a day or two, let it cool down.
6. We repeat the cooking and drying process 2-4 times, depending on the volume of the wood. You can use a pressure cooker to speed up the process. The time is reduced to 4-6 hours.
7. At the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! Use gloves!
8. We put it on the closet for a week or two. The tree is basically dry, but let the remaining moisture go away. The tree will "" rivet "to the atmosphere. After final drying, the tree will look like a bone, and it can be cut, sawed, polished. There will be no foreign smell. It will smell only of wood.
9. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, it must be remembered that small cracks can be reflected, and therefore it is necessary to give
   allowance for their removal in subsequent processing.
10. I remind you once again that large chunks you can't dry it like that. Cracked. Necessarily. Checked.
11. After the tree has finally gotten used to the atmosphere, we make a product from it. Saturate the suvel and the cap, preferably with oil, and if
    there is a desire, then wax too. The tree will show its texture, "sparkle", as they say, to manifest all its inner beauty.

If you have any questions or any clarifications about the above technology, I will answer as much as possible.

CAP TREATMENT

On the trunks of birches, high above the ground or at the very root, you can sometimes find spherical tree outgrowths covered with brown, rough bark. These are mouthguards.
The beauty of birch burl wood was not immediately revealed to man. At first, he appreciated only its extraordinary strength. A small burr with a piece of the trunk and with a hollowed out cavity turned in the hands of a craftsman into a durable and convenient bucket or ladle. A bowl or brother was hollowed out of the burl.

But in such products, the peculiar pattern of the burl remained undisclosed. The wood was only roughly processed. Only much later, when they learned how to saw caps into thin plates and polish, they began to appreciate it as an excellent decorative material. V early XIX centuries, Russian cabinetmakers began to use burls along with wood valuable breeds for decorative finishing of furniture. At the same time, the first caskets and snuff boxes appeared, made entirely of burl. Some artfully crafted items were literally worth their weight in gold. ”Cap was often combined with other materials - most often inlaid with mother-of-pearl, boxwood and ivory.

The recognized center for processing birch burls is the former Vyatka province, now the Kirov region. Vyatka masters have participated in international exhibitions many times.
The masters of the Zvenigorod district of the Moscow region had their own special technology for processing the burl. But after the Great Patriotic War this kind of craft has died out.

Relatively recently, the production of products from burl arose in Bashkiria, which is famous for stocks of burl birch. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, burr harvesters are sent to the mountain forests of the south of Bashkiria. They carefully cut off the growths from birch trunks, then the saw cut is thickly greased with paraffin, oil paint or lime so that harmful microbes do not get into the tree, so that it does not wither and die. After a few years, a cap may grow on it again. It has been noted that burl wood grows twice or three times faster than normal birch wood. The procurers and the cut of the burl itself are lubricated so that it does not crack before the start of processing.

A burl growing on a tree trunk is usually called a stem burl, and at the root - a capo root. Kapo-root is found in the forest much more often than the stem-burl, and reaches one and a half meters in diameter. According to the shape, the mouth guards are divided into two types: round, encircling the trunk around, and lateral, growing on the side of the tree.

Burrs are found not only on birch, but also on aspen, alder, oak, linden, willow and spruce. But they have no industrial value, although they can be used to make various decorative gizmos.
Very often, mouth guards are confused with other growths - with the so-called suvel. Suvel is more common on birch than burl, and has a wavy twisted texture on the cut, similar to that of Karelian birch. It is possible to distinguish the cap from the suvel by the "dormant" kidneys, which in a large number located on the surface of a real burl and are small hemispherical tubercles. From some tubercles, thin twigs - "awakened" buds, can sprout.

On the cut, the textured pattern of the burl is a complex interweaving of annual layers that shimmer when the angle of illumination changes. In a good burl, the cut shows the annual layers and cores of dormant buds in the form of many concentric circles and dark brown dots. The more such points with concentric circles, the livelier and more decorative the drawing. There are usually more dormant buds in the stem burl, so the texture on its cut is more beautiful than that of the capo root, and its wood is more appreciated by craftsmen.

Sometimes the texture of the burl has such a bizarre pattern that with some imagination in the chaotic interweaving of wood fibers, images of fantastic animals and landscapes can be discerned. It is not possible to find at least two pieces of burl with the same pattern, so joinery that has the same shape still does not look like one another. Each of them is unique.

It is impossible to cut the burl from the trees standing on the root by yourself: not knowing all the subtleties of this matter, you can destroy the tree. Unauthorized cutting of the burl is fined on an equal basis with felling of the forest. But if you are interested in processing burl, you can cut it from fallen trees at the warehouse of the nearest timber industry enterprise - with the permission of the storekeeper, of course.
Begin to process the cap by sawing it into plates, choosing their thickness depending on the size of the intended product. The beauty of the texture pattern largely depends on successful sawing.

Over time, you will learn from the shape of the burl, from the location of the dormant buds, to immediately determine how best to cut it in order to discover the hidden beauty. Try to cut the burl so that the plane of the cut cuts across maximum amount sleeping kidneys.
Usually, on a fresh cut, the texture pattern of the burl is pale and hardly noticeable. To make it manifest, burl wood is steamed. The simplest way is to boil the workpieces over low heat for two to three hours. But best result gives wood steaming in sawdust. Wet the sawdust and place them on the bottom of the pan with a layer of about 20 mm, put a layer of blanks on top, cover it with a new layer of sawdust, etc.

Now put the pot in the oven for two to three hours. As a result of steaming, tree sap is removed from the burl, from the uneven drying of which the wood could subsequently warp and crack. At the same time, the blanks are colored with natural dyes contained in the burl, and acquire many shades - from golden amber to dark chocolate.

After steaming, dry the drip for several hours in a drying cabinet, and if it is not there, then simply in the air, but for at least a week.
Now you can cut, grind and glue various products from blanks - some of them are shown in the figures.
Products made of burl are most often covered with alcohol shellac lacquer. Its film is sufficiently resistant and gives a warm yellowish color with a soft sheen. You can also use nitro varnishes - they have a more intense shine and make the texture pattern clearer and more contrasting. Before coating, you need to thoroughly grind the surface of the product with sandpaper - first coarse, then fine.

May 19, 2015 3:05 pm

Sometimes painful growths appear on the trees, which are popularly called the "witch's broom". At first glance, this benign formation in its shape resembles human head... That is why it is generally accepted that the name of the build-up comes from the Old Slavic word "kap". Translated, it means "head". Where to find growths on trees Caps are found on walnuts and on oaks, aspens and black alder. However, the most common growth is on birch. The cap is a bunch of thin twigs that grow from a teardrop-shaped neoplasm. The "witch's broom" can weigh about a ton. What is a stem cap? This is a growth that is located directly on the trunk of the tree. What is Kapokorot? This is an outgrowth that has formed at the very root of the collar of the tree. Sometimes it can be seen over ground surface... An underground burrow grows on the roots. It is found by the shoots. Releases their burls at the beginning of spring. These shoots are not viable and wither quickly. Sometimes burl is found on tree branches. The beauty of amazing material If you make a cross-section of the burl, you can find its structure, in which the cores of the knots are pronounced. The drawing of such a material is always very beautiful. Due to the accumulation of unblown buds, the cut is an amazingly beautiful picture of knots, curls and twisted fibers. Moreover, the pattern for each mouthguard is strictly individual. The burl formed on trees with a striped grain texture and contrasting color combinations is of particular beauty. These are the characteristics of pine outgrowths. However, they are quite rare on these trees. Black dots can be found in the texture of the kapokroot. They are located among the light-colored stem fibers. These black dots are nothing more than non-viable shoots that release underground neoplasms. Where is the mouthpiece used? As a material for carving, a build-up on a tree is not of particular value. Its jagged surface and striped mottled texture interfere with each other. When making crafts in this way, the relief of the carving does not look and the pattern of weaves and stains disappears. As a material for carving, a build-up on a tree is not of particular value. Its jagged surface and striped mottled texture interfere with each other. When making crafts in this way, the relief of the carving does not look and the pattern of weaves and stains disappears. Numerous areas of the burl are pearlescent. That is why this material, which has no special industrial significance, is highly valued. Products made of burl are mainly caskets and female hairpins, cigarette cases and various small jewelry, bowls and smoking pipes, chess pieces and powder boxes, ink utensils and cases for glasses. The material is also used for the manufacture of knife handles. What is a cap in industry? It is a material that is used in furniture decoration. In this case, outgrowths formed on exotic trees are taken and used as veneer. What is a master mouthpiece? This is a material that does not warp, crack, shrink, swell and work well. In addition, it is weighty and durable. Where can I find a cap? Growths grow on trees. Therefore, one must look for them in the forest. However, this is not so simple, because the mouthguards grow spontaneously, and only the most stubborn and big-eyed can see them. It is only possible to cut the build-up with a very sharpened saw. The most realistic way is to find burls at logging sites. There, these growths end up in waste. At logging sites, there are also capokorns, which you simply cannot find in the forest. Preparing the material for work The cap can be found at different types trees. However, the growth that has arisen on a birch is considered the most beautiful and valuable in our area. Products from a burl are not obtained immediately. The material requires some preliminary preparation. How to handle birch burl? For this it is necessary to apply the steaming method. It is suitable for those growths that are not very large in size. The cap is cleaned of debris, placed in an unnecessary pan and filled with water. Then add salt to the container. Its dosage per liter of water is two heaped tablespoons. You can add more salt. She will draw the juice out of the tree. This method also uses sawdust obtained by processing resinous wood species. They need to be poured into a saucepan. The sawdust gives the burl a pleasant color, which can range from yellowish pink to brownish ocher. The resins in the sawdust will add strength to the build-up and make the texture appear brighter. After boiling water, the heat should be slightly reduced and the pan should be left on the stove for six to eight hours. Remove the scale as it builds up. During the steaming process, it is necessary to monitor the volume of water in the pan and add it periodically. At the end of "cooking", the build-up is washed from sawdust under running water and placed in a closet for a day or two. After that, the whole process must be repeated at least two to four times. During the last cooking, until the tree has cooled down, peel the bark from it, and upon completion put the growth in the cabinet for one to two weeks. Having finally dried out, the burl will become similar to bone in its characteristics. The material prepared in this way is excellently cut, sawn and sanded. At the same time, he will not have any extraneous odors. Making jewelry boxes Crafts made of birch burl are not inferior in beauty to souvenirs made of Karelian birch wood, and even surpass them. This material is often used to make magnificent boxes. In the process of work, the burl boards are neatly connected to each other, making sure that the pattern of their texture is similar. A very important operation is the manufacture of wooden hinges. This step requires the precise shaping of rounded pins and grooves at the edges of the lid and body of the product. The hinges must fit tightly and accurately. One more complicated operation is drilling holes. In wooden hinges, this is most easily done with thin steel wire. At the next stage, a lock is cut into the box. The product is almost ready. It should only be putty, dry thoroughly and cover the surfaces with an alkaline varnish. After the completion of these works, the box is treated with polish and wiped with alcohol. The product is polished until the wood acquires an amber color and all the veins of its amazing texture play brightly. Decoration for a cane Using a cap, you can make a great gift for an elderly person with your own hands. The job can be done even by a beginner. On a tube or metal rod, you should alternately put on hollow cylinders, which are previously machined from a birch kapokroot. The details should be tightly fitted to each other, giving the impression of a single whole. Such a cane can be crowned with a carved or smooth birch handle. A bowl of burls Various souvenirs can be made from wooden outgrowths. Ornamental bowls are popular burl products. A rough piece is made from a little raw material. Next, the blank is left to dry. If small cracks form in it, then they are lubricated with PVA glue. After final drying, the product is given the required shape, it is sanded, polished and varnished.

Material, which has long been known in Russia as a tree bone.
This is a build-up, see photo 1, (or the influx, as it is also called) on the Birch, which forms on the tree trunk along different reasons... For example, weather, climatic influences environment... Also, this effect can be achieved artificially by wrapping the barrel, for example with wire, over time it will grow overgrown with Suvel. It was called bone due to the fact that after careful polishing and impregnation with various oils, the tree takes on a bony appearance, and its thin parts are visible through.

Photo 1. View of Suveli after the saw cut. It looks like a bump or rush. It is initially difficult to judge internal form wood after sawing it.

In most cases, with the correct cut, you can observe amazing phenomena, namely, the interweaving of wood fibers that form mother-of-pearl areas that are different (unique) in pattern and direction, which literally glow, reflecting daylight. Patterns and colors can be different, mainly pink-yellow, straw, or brownish yellow with a deep pearlescent glow on the cut, in some cases specimens with a dark brown color with the presence of marsh green shades come across. This color range is explained by the fact that the wood grows in different conditions and terrain, for example: If the build-up was cut in a very swampy area, then it is possible that the color of the wood will most likely be brownish-green. Or another example: If the Suvel is on the butt of a tree (the butt of the trunk is the part that is 10-15 cm below the ground and 15-20 cm above it, this is on average) and it is covered with moss, then most likely it is will be dark brown with the presence of a pale pink hue, or straw yellow - golden with dark brown annual rings - that is, the presence dark shades will dominate, but not always.

Photo 2. A rare and valuable specimen of naturally dried Suveli for about 1.5 years. In the photo you can see the ray glow of the fibers at daylight... This glow is called "Mother of Pearl", it can be different types, from clear pearlescent rays to those that you see in the rest of the images, there is no limit to the variety.

Photo 3 ... This sample is the same applies to rare, its main difference from that on photo 2, it is a marble texture and drying technology, it was dried in a quick way, namely by cooking in a salty solution. The photo clearly shows how it differs from what is on photo 2, the one that is higher has a total of straw or golden color and on photo 3 the color is predominantly brownish pink.

Photo 4. Here you see a species that is also rare, but more common than those in photos 2 and 3.

Photo 5. In this photo, pearlescent stains are called ash or glass. This type is found most often, but its value is not lost from this, because everyone has different tastes. Someone like the radial section, and someone like glowing ash stains.

Photo 6... This, as we have already understood, is the ray direction of the fibers with the presence of ash streaks. (mixed type)

Photo 7... A specimen that looks like a simple one, but in fact it is not, is the same rare species that grows mainly in swamp swamps, from which it has such a color.

Photo 8... This is an example of how Suvel looks in finished form (product) in combination with reindeer antler and metals. Knife by Valery Sokolov "Svalbard", made in the Scandinavian style.

Yet, general form this wood depends on the type of drying (this does not affect the quality of the products), there are several drying options.
1. Natural, this is when the wood has dried in natural conditions, without human intervention, that is, after being cut down over time, the tree has dried up by itself.
2. Old Russian way quick drying, the wood is boiled in a saline solution for several hours, then the bark is removed and placed in a dark and dry place for several weeks, this is a minimum, even after that it is quite suitable for processing.
The noticeable difference after these types of drying is the color. With natural drying, the wood remains in its natural color, and after cooking it acquires a delicate pink or carrot shade, this is for an amateur who dries as he wants. In the skillful hands of a person who has everything in order with imagination, any piece of wood will shine and look expensive, if you just want to strongly and connect your imagination.

Suvel is a material from which you can make various objects, for example, women's jewelry in the form of pendants of earrings, hairpins and bracelets, it depends on how much imagination a person has. Earlier, but no, not only earlier and now some enthusiasts make cutlery out of it, quite suitable for their intended purpose, take, for example, the Scandinavian "Kuksy", this is something like our mugs, only from wood, better material than Suvel there is no way to find it.
But most importantly, this material is most suitable for making knife handles. Due to its inherent qualities such as hardness, density, ease of processing and polishing, unique texture, variety color shades, the beauty of pearlescent weaves, etc. One thing is clear that this material will never get bored, although some will disagree with me, this is their right. Previously, I made handles only from exotic woods, but they quickly tired me with their monotony and monotony, although someone will say their own and someone will say the opposite. But I definitely learned for myself, there is no better raw material than Birch and what it gives us in the form of Caps, Suveli, Svilya, Komlya and root part, there is no.

All samples that you see in the form of bars are ground and polished, then treated with shelf oil. This allows you to preserve the natural color of the wood and protect it from moisture and decay + treated with carnauba wax.

The variety of Suveli is very rich, I would say endlessly, this material is combined with almost all types of wood, bone, metals, etc.

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15.05.2017

The tree is the most common plant on earth.

Nature is incredibly generous, since it gave a person not only the opportunity to admire the beauty of trunks and leaves, but also to extract practical benefits from wood, because for several thousand years people have been using wooden products in their everyday life, building houses, boats, making furniture and household utensils. producing musical instruments, crafts, etc.

To date, there is no material that can completely replace the wonderful natural properties wood, since its density, color, texture, texture pattern and shades are unique in each case.

The natural uniqueness of the wood pattern is especially evident in cap and suveli(spherical or teardrop-shaped growths on trees), which pundits identified as diseases.

These formations create a complex enchanting pattern of wood fibers inside, consisting of an interweaving of colored lines, spots, blotches, smoothly flowing into each other, which thus form a pattern of special beauty. Due to the richness of colors and lines, both caps and suvels are excellent natural materials for the production of various crafts, jewelry, interior items, since they have both an exclusive texture (in nature it is impossible to find two identical patterns), and special strength and durability.

Let's try to determine what is the difference between cap and suvel, and what they have in common.

Cap

Cap ( caproot or as it is also called by the people " witch broom") Is a rounded benign formation on the trunk or branch with big amount woody knots. The cap differs from the suveli in that it has many bumps on its outer side, which are created due to the adventitious and dormant buds. These formations have the appearance of dark thorns and tubercles, which is why, often on the burl, one can observe small shoots and twigs growing directly from it.

According to some scientists, burl on a tree occurs as a result of either drastic change in the development of a plant, that is, it can have both natural and anthropogenic causes. Some scientists believe that the appearance of an ugly tumor on a tree may be a hereditary deformity.

Burl is found mainly on hardwood trees such as oak, linden, maple, alder, poplar, walnut, but most often it can be found on birch.

It has been noticed that, on average, one tree with a burl accounts for three to five thousand trees without such a formation, so it is rather difficult to find a good burl (as opposed to a suveli).

Most often, a root burl is found on trees, which can be simply gigantic.

Usually, caproot has a slightly pronounced texture inside and a pattern that is weak in color contrast.

The burl formed on a branch often has the shape of an irregular ball and, unlike a burlap root, when cross-sectioned, its internal texture is replete with patterns with knot cores and has a peculiar "needle-like" structure in the form of a small ornament with dashes and dots. Internal wood fibers are intertwined in different directions, creating a picturesque drawing, and blotches from dormant buds make the texture even richer, therefore, caps are most often used as a decorative element in the manufacture of various crafts, knife handles, rifle butts, original dishes and other souvenirs.

In processing, due to the strong density of its texture and a huge number of knots, the burl is not easy, but at the same time it is perfectly sanded and polished.

The base color of the inner texture of the burl is various shades of black or brown, ocher. Even if you take two halves of the same burl, they will still be different and have a great pattern, so the structure of the build-up is not uniform.

Burl's wood is stronger than that of suveli, and is fifty to seventy percent stronger than that of the tree on which it was formed.

Small items are also made from burl: caskets, cigarette cases, hairpins, earrings, bracelets, small jewelry.

It makes no sense to create a carved pattern on the burl, since the texture and texture of the wood is beautiful in itself.

Suvel

Suveli formation is caused by a tree disease (cancer) and it is most often a twisted and woven outgrowth, which is why it is also called swile.

Usually the swil grows two to three times faster than the tree itself and has a teardrop or spherical shape located around the trunk or branch. The main difference between suveli and burl is that it is formed not from dormant buds, but due to the complex interweaving of annual rings bent in different directions (hence the name of the suveli). On this basis, cones on a tree can be easily distinguished from each other.

Outgrowths (especially on birch) are quite common, although the cause of its formation has not been fully understood. Presumably, a fungus or mechanical damage to the bark of a tree can initiate the formation of a twine.

Suvel (popularly also called wood bone), since its cut resembles the stains of marble (with the same overflow and radial section), and the thin parts are visible through and outwardly similar to bone, although the density of the tissues, as mentioned above, is less in the suveli than in the burl, therefore its wood is less durable.

The suveli outgrowth can grow to gigantic proportions (for example, in the Vatican there is a baptismal font carved from a single piece of wood). However, the smaller the swell, the richer and brighter the pattern inside, although the pattern with the elements of the ornament will in any case be softer (without the patterns in the form of "thorns" and "needles" that are obligatory for the burl).

The inner texture of the suveli has a delicate pearlescent hue, and the colors of each can vary greatly and contain white, yellow (reminiscent of amber), as well as brown, pinkish and green colors... The shade of the suveli depends on the place where the tree grows and how it was dried.

The suvel can be formed by yourself, for this it is enough to pull the trunk or branch of the tree with wire. A convex formation created by annual rings will soon appear at the site of the constriction.

Suvel also lends itself well to processing, it is well polished, polished, and its mother-of-pearl cut, reminiscent of marble, playing with stains, has a unique texture and, as it were, glows from the inside.

Of course, it is impossible to determine by the look of the suveli how beautiful the drawing will be, but the more clumsy and twisted the build-up looks on the outside, the richer its texture and pattern will be inside.

The most valuable is the root (butt) part of the suveli. It is of interest to woodcarvers, painters, knife makers, sculptors and cabinetmakers who choose this material for its exclusivity in cut design, high strength, resistance to decay and unique ability to processing.

Search and preparation of growths

Naturally, it is necessary to look for bumps on a tree in the forest. At the same time, many confuse burl and svil with a similar mushroom from the genus (Inonotus), which most often lives on birch and is called chaga or black birch mushroom.

It is necessary to learn how to determine where the mushroom is and where the growth is.

It is best to cut the swell and burl in the fall (in September-October), when the trees stop the natural movement of the sap and begin preparing for the winter.

It must be remembered that without a good saw, suvel or burls, especially if they are very gnarled, are not easy to cut, so this work is best done with a chainsaw, but it must be remembered that the chains of the tool quickly become blunt due to the special strength of the build-up.

If there is no chainsaw, you will have to work with a hand saw, but it must have teeth sharply sharpened with a good divorce so that the master does not torment himself or the tree, and does not injure him in vain.

The place of the cut (in order to avoid the formation of a hollow that is undesirable for the tree) must be immediately covered with garden varnish, painted over with oil paint or covered with clay.

When a massive capokorn, it must be remembered that its cut is fraught with serious consequences for the tree and as a result of the injury it may die.

All of the above properties, both burl and stitch, raise these unique materials to the pinnacle of value among other types of wood, since they are used as in decoration various subjects utilitarian purposes, and jewelry, small plastics and dishes.