Compressor ZIL 130 technical specifications performance. Car pressure regulator zil

Before you is the ZIL 130 compressor. This metal structure has a complex shape. Essentially the same engine. There are two pistons. They are rotated by the crankshaft. And it spins from a pulley, which is connected to a pulley located on the fan shaft using a V-belt.

There is also a lubrication system. She is combined. The oil comes from the engine lubrication system.

It is cooled by the coolant. The cooling system is connected to the main engine cooling system.

The ZIL 130 compressor is necessary for the operation of the brake system. It pumps air into the pneumatic system. It is installed on the right side of the motor on the head of the block. Its characteristics are:

• working volume - 214 cubic centimeters
• capacity 210 liters per minute
• power consumption - 2.1 kW
• rated speed - 2000 rpm.

As soon as the pressure in the pneumatic system reaches 700-740 kPa, the pressure regulator is activated, and no air enters the cylinders. At this time, the compressor is running, just like the engine is idling - in vain. Because air is not needed, but the motor spends power to keep it running.

What malfunctions occur?

1. 1. Piston rings, crankshaft seals and bearings of the lower heads of connecting rods wear out.
2. 2. The oil drain pipe is clogged.

These malfunctions are accompanied by noise and knocking during operation, as well as an increased amount of oil in the condensate.

The only thing that can be done in this case is to disassemble the compressor and replace the defective parts.

What should be checked during maintenance?

1. How well the compressor is attached to the motor.
2. How the nuts of the studs holding the head are tightened.
3. Is the pulley holding firmly?
4. How to tighten the belt (this must be done every day).

Also during maintenance, it is necessary to clean the piston valves, seats, springs, air channels. This is usually done every 50-60 thousand kilometers.

How to check if the ZIL 130 compressor is working properly?

1. Start the engine.
2. Wait until the pressure in the pneumatic system is 7-7.4 kgf/cm2.
3. Stop the engine.
4. Remove the hose that connects the air filter to the compressor (it's rubber). At this point, the pressure gauge should show a slight drop in pressure, and you will hear the noise that is created when something lets air through.
5. Wait until the pressure drops to 5.5-6 kgf / cm2, and remove the pipe through which air enters, the spring and rocker.
6. The stem socket and the stem itself must be removed. To do this, the nest must be raised up.
7. Remove the fitting from the socket.

Sandblasting can be used to effectively and quickly clean any part, surface of a structure for further repair or use. But this device requires a source of compressed air with the necessary pressure and performance. A do-it-yourself compressor for sandblasting will save you from acquiring expensive and not always reliable enough equipment.

practical option

The design based on the compressor from MAZ, ZIL 130 - 157 has established itself as a reliable and efficient device. The unit from these cars will require minimal do-it-yourself alterations. From MTZ, GAZ is inefficient, and from KamAZ it needs a lot of improvements. The receiver is installed based on the needs for sandblasting - a gas cylinder of 50 liters or ready-made from a KamAZ car and a smaller one from ZIL, which already have the necessary holes.

An approximate layout of a do-it-yourself device and a compressor pneumatic connection diagram are as follows. The receiver, in a horizontal position, is mounted on supports with wheels. A compressor without a bottom cover is installed on a piece of a channel with a width of 200 - 250 mm through a paronite gasket. At the opposite end of the channel, through the milled grooves, the electric motor is mounted on the legs. The grooves are necessary for the tension of the belt, which is selected with a small section so that the power loss in the drive is minimal. The channel is attached to the top of the receiver, the wiring from the compressor to the receiver is connected from above and from the end, a pressure control pressure gauge is installed, an overload valve and an outlet fitting with a valve are mounted from the end.

The electric motor is selected depending on the needs. For a 220 V network, the minimum required power of a three-phase electric motor is 1.5 kW, revolutions are 1420 rpm. The required gear ratio between the motor shaft and the compressor pulley in this case is 1: 3. At high powers, the ratio is reduced - the performance increases. For power supply at 220 V, 2.2 kW is optimal. By using 380V (3 phases), the power can be reduced.

The outer diameter of the pulleys of automotive units is approximately 210 mm. In the case of using a 1.1 kW motor with an 80 mm pulley, the gear ratio is 210/80 = 2.6. The electric motor will operate at maximum power at a pressure of 8 atm. A capacity of 260 l/min (maximum) is obtained at 2500 rpm of the compressor shaft. By changing the ratio, you can reach 3200 rpm - the maximum speed of the unit on the ZIL 130.

Refinement of the ZIL 130 brake pneumatic drive compressor

In the housing, in a convenient place, 10 mm lower than the center of the crankshaft, a hole is drilled for filling the oil. A thread is cut under the cork. From the bottom of the channel, a threaded hole is made for the oil drain plug. From the side opposite the pulley, a fitting with an oil-resistant hose or tube is screwed into the bearing cover, which is connected to a container that acts as an expansion reservoir for lubricant and a breather. You can use the clutch reservoir for brake fluid from the VAZ. It is located opposite the cylinder head of the unit. To install the fitting, the intake valve of the vehicle line is unscrewed.

They change the crankshaft lubrication system: they drill 2 countersunk holes in each connecting rod assembly with liners at the transition point from the rod to the lower head of the connecting rod. One is drilled into the connecting rod caps. For holes D 3mm, countersink 10mm, drilling direction - to the center of the shaft. You will need to disassemble the compressor - remove the head, unscrew the connecting rods. The resulting holes will provide the liners with splash lubrication. The cylinders are lubricated during operation due to the oil mist that forms.

The unloader of the unit (soldier) remains factory - it will allow you to adjust the pressure at which the unit will turn off. The discharge tube must be connected to the flow receiver (if there is more than one). The pressure gauge and overload valve are also recommended to use automotive.

To turn off the engine at idle speed of the compressor with your own hands, you can provide for automatic on-off. Between the unloading channel and the pressure regulator of the automotive unit, you will need to insert a threshold pressure sensor - a VK12B brake light switch from UAZ, GAZ, and so on. Its catalog number is 40P-37210010. The control circuit will become simpler if a pressure sensor is found, the contacts of which open when pressure is applied. In order for the self-assembled compressor to work more smoothly, a balanced flywheel should be installed on the pulley of the automotive unit.

For normal operation, no cooling system is required - when operating at constant speed, the unit rarely heats up to more than 60 ° C. On a car, its operating temperature is 90°C, but even 120°C are not critical. In case of intense operation, an evaporative type cooling system can be made. A 4-5 liter container is installed above the level of the head, the hoses are connected on the compressor to the inlet-outlet for the coolant. This will keep the temperature below 100°C.

The best basis for creating a do-it-yourself paint compressor is ZIL 130, the compressor of which is most structurally suitable for this. For body painting, the use of a compressor is important, as it improves the quality and strength of the applied layer, and increases productivity. In addition, it can be used to inflate tires, supply air to pneumatic tools.

Due to the considerable cost of the compressor, it is not advisable to purchase a device for a “one-time” painting of your car, and not everyone can afford it. Home craftsmen are capable of making such a device with their own hands.

Make it yourself or buy a ready-made device

Today's market for pressure boosting and air injection devices is replete with variety. For various purposes, screw, piston and other types of compressors are produced. Those who have made a choice in favor of a ready-made device should choose the type of mechanism with the required technical characteristics and at the best price.

Of the variety of products offered, of course, it is better to choose products of well-known brands. Their main disadvantage is their high cost. Large cash outlays will pay off only when engaged in professional car repair.

If you buy a cheap device of an unknown brand, you need to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. Inexpensive products are often made of low-quality material, the engine fails, and warranty repairs last several months.

A do-it-yourself unit made from Zilovsky (ZIL 130) is considered by many craftsmen to be more reliable. According to numerous reviews, such a device has good performance, strength, wear resistance.

In addition, a repair kit for a Zilovsky compressor can be bought at every auto parts store. A self-made high-quality device that works for a long time and works properly will delight its owner and become the envy of many motorists.

After studying the instructions for making a device from the ZIL 130 compressor with your own hands, we can conclude: buy a pig in a poke or make the device yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for making a paint compressor from Zilovsky

To create a device that pumps air, compressors are used:

• ZIL 130;
• ZIL 157;
• KamAZ;

The KamAZ device has good performance, is durable and reliable, but requires serious improvement, and GAZ, MTZ are inefficient. Therefore, for the manufacture of a device that pumps air, many people choose a Zilovsky unit with their own hands.

Consider an example of such an assembly. Let's take as a basis the ZIL 130 compressor, a propane cylinder of 50 liters. For a network of 220 volts, a 2–3 kilowatt motor is needed, when using 3 phases, the power may be less. The frame is made of a steel corner; bolts, self-tapping screws, sealant, clamps are required for fastening.

For a car enthusiast who has little experience in welding and metalwork, it will not be difficult to make an air injection device based on the ZIL 130 compressor with your own hands if you follow our recommendations.

The compressor is a universal device that is widely used not only in the automotive industry, but also in production. In order to save money and not purchase expensive equipment, some craftsmen are trying to create a ZIL compressor on their own.

Device

The compressor is a two-cylinder piston type device. Its principle of operation is to pump air through the movement of pistons. The compressor device consists of:

• wire crankcase with channels;
• gland;
• springs;
• sealant.

The pistons are made of aluminum and equipped with pins that are secured with retaining rings. Through the inlet valves, the air in the engine air filter enters the compressor cylinders. It is compressed by pistons and enters the pneumatic system. Then it passes through the delivery valves, which are located in the cylinder head.

Cooling system

The engine has a liquid cooling system of a closed type. It consists of: radiator, thermostat, pump, temperature sensor, compressor and pipe. It works on the principle of forced circulation of cooling. If the liquid in the system overheats, then it is necessary to open the radiator cap. When it is opened, a jet of hot water is ejected from the neck. Therefore, this must be done carefully.

Lubrication system

The lubrication system is combined. The lubricant comes from the lubrication unit of the motor system and cools down with the help of the coolant.

Characteristics

Detailed description of the Zilovsky compressor. Specifications:

• productivity - 210 l;
• working volume - 214 cm³;
• cylinder size - 60 mm in diameter;
• cylinder - 2 pcs.;
• power consumption - up to 21.1 kW;
• rotation frequency - 2000 rpm;
• internal pressure of the pneumatic system - 740 kPa;
• warranty period - 6 months.

How to make a compressor with your own hands

Do-it-yourself device is made on the basis of the Zilovsky compressor. If it is designed to perform small tasks, then the alteration of the compressor will be minimal. Its refinement is carried out if the device is planned to be used for a long time and with heavy loads. From the materials you will need:

• engine;
• receiver;
• manometer;
• safety valve.

In the manufacture of a home-made apparatus, it is important to correctly transfer torque to the unit. The valve and pressure gauge, which are mounted on the receiver, are responsible for the pressure. Assembly subtleties:

1. Torque. In order for the compressor to maintain its power and number of revolutions, some craftsmen make a direct connection. But such a connection requires a powerful engine. Therefore, the engine is connected to the unit by means of a belt drive. If the connection is made through a gearbox, then the torque will be sufficient. Basically, in the manufacture of the compressor, a belt drive is used, since a high-quality gearbox is expensive.
2. Engine. The engine is selected in such a way that it meets all the parameters of the compressor. In order for the maximum pressure to form in the device, the engine speed must be more than 2000 rpm. This will allow the compressor to operate in light mode. If the device will be used without loads and for a short period, then a 1 kW unit will do. For more intensive work, products of high power are used.
3. Receiver. A homemade compressor should be compact in size. To do this, a receiver is made from a gas cylinder or a fire extinguisher. Any metal container will also work. The main thing is that the finished device should be of medium size. The design is equipped with a pressure gauge and pressure regulator. To do this, it needs to be improved. Near the entrance to the tank, a ready-made assembly with a gearbox is mounted, which can be purchased at the store. After installing the back pressure valve, it is adjusted.
4. Cooling system and lubrication. Some compressors experience high superheat during operation. To eliminate this drawback, they are being finalized by a cooling system. To do this, holes are made in the connecting rods, and the bottom cover is equipped with an oblique tube. A filter is mounted at the outlet of the crankcase. It must be transparent. This will allow you to monitor the oil level. A dehumidifier is made from a fire extinguisher.

The compressor is installed on the frame. To do this, the necessary seats for the device are made in the frame. The engine is rigidly fixed to the frame. The remaining elements that are connected through hoses are mounted separately.

Faults and repairs

Noise and knocking during compressor operation, as well as oil that appears in the air tank, indicates a malfunction of the device.

1. Over time, cracks and chips form on the crankcase block. The crankcase is completely replaced if cracks appear on its walls. Cracks are welded if they are located on the crankcase mounting flange and are small.
2. To check the tightness of the cylinder, it is placed in a water bath and filled with compressed air under pressure. If bubbles appear, then it is considered not tight. Repairs are made by boring the container and honing it to the repair size. The block in the detachable state must be solid, without nicks. A deviation of up to 0.04 mm is allowed. It is impossible for a probe of 0.05 mm to pass under the curved ruler.
3. The repair size of the pistons is determined by the number stamped on the bottom of the piston. This is the number +04, +0.8.

Air compressor ZIL-130 piston type, two-cylinder. Aluminum pistons with floating piston pins; from axial movement, the fingers in the piston bosses are fixed with retaining rings.

Rice. Air compressor ZIL-130: 1 - lower crankcase cover; 2 - front crankcase cover; 3 - compressor pulley hub; 4 — an epiploon of a cranked shaft; 5 - compressor crankcase; 6 - cylinder block; 7 - connecting rod; 8 - piston with rings; 9 - piston pin with retaining rings; 10 - block head; 11 - plug of the discharge valve; 12 - pressure valve spring; 13 - discharge valve; 14 - discharge valve seat; 15 - rear bearing of the crankshaft; 16 - spring seal; 17 - crankcase cover; 18 - sealant; 19 - crankshaft; 20 - adjusting bolt; 21 - inlet valve; 22 - intake valve guide; 23 - intake valve stem; 24 - rocker spring; 25 - rocker, 26 - plunger; 27 - sealing rings; 28 - inlet valve stem socket; 29 - intake valve spring

The block and head are cooled by liquid supplied from the engine cooling system. The liquid in the compressor cooling system is supplied from the water jacket of the engine inlet pipeline to the cylinder block, then to the compressor head and drained from the head into the suction cavity of the water pump.

Adjustment of the ZIL-130 compressor

At each maintenance check:

• tightening the compressor mounting nuts on the engine head
• pulley mount
• drive belt tension
• tightening the nuts of the studs securing the head and other fasteners

The nuts of the studs securing the head should be tightened evenly in two steps. The final tightening torque should be within 1.2-1.7 kgf * m.

The compressor drive belt must be tensioned so that when a force of 4 kgf is applied, the deflection of the belt branch located between the compressor and fan pulleys is 5-8 mm. Belt tension should be checked daily. The tension of the compressor drive belt is regulated by moving the compressor, which requires loosening the nuts securing the bottom cover to the bracket and using the adjusting bolt 20 to provide the required tension. After that, tighten the compressor mounting and lock the adjusting bolt with a lock nut.

The pressure regulator automatically maintains the required compressed air pressure in the system by letting air into or out of the compressor unloader.

The pressure regulator is adjusted in the following sequence:

1. By rotating the cap, the compressor is turned on at a pressure of 6.0-6.4 kgf/cm2. When screwing the cap on, the pressure increases, when unscrewing it, it decreases. The cap is secured with a locknut.
2. By changing the number of gaskets, a pressure of 7.3-7.7 kgf/cm2 is obtained, at which the compressor is turned off. With an increase in the number of gaskets, the pressure decreases, with a decrease, it increases.